Life in Chile

On this supposed island between the Andes and the sea, isolation may have nurtured Chilenos for decades but globalization has arrived. Social media and the internet are radically recalibrating the values, tastes and social norms of this once ultraconservative society. Yet change is uneasy. There is still a provincial side to Chile – witness the sacred backyard barbecue and Sundays reserved for family, all generations included. At a cultural crossroads, Chile leaves the visitor with much to enjoy, debate and process.

The National Psyche

Centuries with little outside exposure, accompanied by an especially influential Roman Catholic Church, fostered a high degree of cultural conformity and conservatism in Chile. If anything, this isolation was compounded during the Pinochet years of repression and censorship. Perhaps for this reason outsiders often comment on how Chileans appear more restrained than other Latin American nationalities: they seem a less-verbal, more heads-down and hard-working people.

But the national psyche is now at its most fluid, as Chile undergoes radical social change. The Catholic Church itself has become more progressive. Society is opening up, introducing liberal laws and challenging conservative values. Nowhere is this trend more evident than with urban youth.

In the past, Chileans were known for compliance and passive political attitudes, but read today’s news and you’ll see that unrest simmers. Social change comes at the behest of Generations Y and Z – the first to grow up without the censorship, curfew or restrictions of the dictatorship. As a result, they are far more questioning and less discouraged by theoretical consequences. Authorities may perceive it as a threat, but Chile’s youth has stood up for what’s theirs in a way their predecessors would not have. The momentum has also influenced the provinces, namely Magallanes and Aisén, to protest higher costs and neglect by the central government.

Yet, above all, this is a harmony-loving society. The most lasting impression you’ll take away of Chileans is undoubtedly their renowned hospitality, helpfulness, genuine curiosity and heartfelt eagerness to make travelers feel at home.

Lifestyle

Travelers crossing over from Peru or Bolivia may wonder where the stereotypical ‘South America’ went. Superficially, Chilean lifestyle has many similarities to Europe. Dress can be conservative, leaning toward business formal, the exception being teens. And while most Chileans are proud of their traditional heritage, there’s a palpable lack of investment in it.

The average Chilean focuses energy on family, home and work. Children are not encouraged to grow up too quickly, and families spend a great deal of time together. Independence isn’t nearly as valued as family unity and togetherness. Regardless, single motherhood is not uncommon. Though the Bachelet administration legalized abortion in certain, very limited cases, the new administration has since introduced new rules that human rights advocates fear will largely undermined the authority of the ruling.

The legalization of divorce a decade ago helped remove the stigma of failed partnerships and created a backlog of cases in the courts. While not aggressively antigay, Chile had long denied public support for alternate lifestyles. Yet with the approval of civil unions for homosexual couples (as well as heterosexual unmarrieds) in January 2015, Chile took a big step forward.

Generally, the famous Latin American machismo (chauvinism) is subtle in Chile and there’s a great deal of respect for women. However, this doesn’t mean that it’s exactly liberal. In Chile, traditional roles still rule and close friendships are usually formed along the lines of gender.

Chileans have a strong work ethic, and often work six days a week, but are always eager for a good carrete (party). Military service is voluntary, though the right to compulsory recruitment is retained. More women are joining the military and serving as police officers.

A yawning gulf separates the highest and lowest incomes in Chile, resulting in a dramatic gulf in living standards and an exaggerated class consciousness. Lifestyles are lavish for Santiago’s cuicos (upper-class yuppies), with swish apartment blocks and a couple of maids, while at the other end of the scale people live in precarious homes without running water. That said, poverty has been halved in recent decades, while housing and social programs have eased the burden on Chile’s poorest.

A lack of ethnic and religious diversity in Chile makes racism less of an issue, although Mapuche still face prejudice and marginalization, and class barriers remain formidable.

Population

While the vast majority of the population is of Spanish ancestry mixed with indigenous groups, several moderate waves of immigrants have also settled here – particularly British, Irish, French, Italians, Croatians (especially in Magallanes and Tierra del Fuego) and Palestinians. Germans also began immigrating in 1848 and left their stamp on the Lakes District. Today Chile’s immigrant population is climbing, led by Peruvians and Argentines, but including increasing numbers of Europeans, Asians and North Americans.

The northern Andes is home to around 69,200 indigenous Aymara and Atacameño peoples. Almost 10 times that amount (around 620,000 people) are Mapuche, mainly from La Araucanía. Their name stems from the words mapu (land) and che (people). About 3800 Rapa Nui, of Polynesian ancestry, live on Easter Island.

About 75% of Chile’s population occupies just 20% of its total area, in the main agricultural region of Middle Chile. This region includes Gran Santiago (the capital and its suburbs), where over a third of the country’s nearly 18 million people reside. More than 85% of Chileans live in cities. In Patagonia, the person-per-sq-km ratio in Aisén is just 1:1 – in the Región Metropolitana that ratio is closer to 400:1.

DOS & DON’TS

A Keep your behavior circumspect around indigenous peoples, especially in the altiplano and in the Mapuche centers of the south.

A Upon greeting and leaving, cheek kisses are exchanged between men and women and between women. Both parties gently touch cheek to cheek and send the kiss to the air. Men exchange handshakes.

A For Chileans, their dictatorship past is old news. Discussions should start with a focus on more contemporary issues.

A Chileans often reserve strong opinions out of politeness. Quickly asserting an opinion is frowned upon.