The Seine has its lovers’ trysts. The Thames has its bridges. The Tiber has Romulus and Remus. The Danube has—well, put on the Blue Danube and lace up your waltzing shoes, traveler, because this river will have you dancing. For joy, that is. This area has been inspiring troubled writers, wacky musicians, and singing families for centuries, but it’s still hard to pinpoint exactly what is special about Austria and its iconic waterway. Maybe it’s that Austria has maintained much of the charming 17th- and 18th-century architecture built along the river, resulting in a picturesque scene whether you stay in Vienna or venture into von Trapp territory in Salzburg. Or you can experience Austria’s second-largest but often overlooked city, Graz, whose local university makes it a haven for students. Or maybe it’s that the Viennese really do dance the waltz en masse on New Year’s Eve. We haven’t found one, all-encompassing answer yet (though not for lack of trying). We challenge you to find it, one cup of Viennese coffee and Danube backdrop at a time.
greatest hits
• ROYAL DIGS. Wander around Schloβ Schönbrunn, an imperial summer residence with a French garden that brings Versailles to mind.
• DRINK LIKE A LOCAL. Tone your drinking muscles at Flex, a popular Vienna club with an offbeat vibe.
• THE HILLS ARE ALIVE. Let your inner Von Trapp child sing as you stroll through Salzburg, where you can see nearly endless renditions of the musical.
Vienna serves as the center of student life in Austria and has the bargains and culture to match. Leave your hostel in Mariahilf or Neubau and grab a bargain breakfast at Naschmarkt—an open-air market stocked with delicious ingredients and prepared meals alike. After refueling, split from the Core Districts, and head for the Inner City to people-watch at Franziskanerplatz with a cappuccino from Kleines Cafe. When the sun sets, head to First Floor for some drinks with other Viennese youth, or get your culture on at Staatsoper, where standing room tickets start at just €2.50.
Though Salzburg is home to its own eponymous university, the city’s identity as a tourist town is not especially conducive to bargains or even student discounts. Your best opportunity to ogle other young things will be at Monkeys cafe.bar or the Shamrock Irish Pub, which offers .5L glasses of Guinness for €4.50.
Austria’s capital city is an ancient maze of breathtaking old buildings rooted in a rich history of rising and falling empires and wars. Wandering down the stone city streets, you may find yourself at the steps of a palace or a magnificent church. The spirits of Mozart, Beethoven, and many famous composers that even the biggest of Beliebers would recognize still linger in Vienna, from the city’s famous opera to the countless citizens who work to preserve Vienna’s rich musical heritage. While much of the city is rooted in classics and tradition, newer generations of the Viennese are bringing a modern edge to the historical city. Contemporary art is on the ups, and its cool presence stands out even more clearly when juxtaposed with the old world. The pace of Vienna is relaxed. Here, loitering for hours in coffee shops and parks is a right. Yet amongst the loiterers and on nearly every street corner, you’ll find some of the most talented philosophers, artists, and musicians in the world, making Vienna the magical place it is today.
SIGHTS
ST. STEPHEN’S CATHEDRAL
CHURCH
Stephansplatz 3
001 515 52 30 54
Perhaps the most monstrous thing ever to possess a pet name, St. Stephen’s Cathedral (which the native Viennese call “Steffl”) stands looming in Vienna’s ever-busy first district. The cathedral’s history is as deep as the dirt and grime that give the once white building its black tint. St. Stephen’s Cathedral was built atop the ruins of two churches in 1106, but its expansion lasted into the 16th century. While you can get a glimpse into the beautifully ordained baroque interior of the cathedral without handing over any euro, this is only the tip of iceberg. If you decide to stop being cheap and are willing to cough up €4.50, you’ll find yourself immersed in the cathedral’s history (and potentially dust), as the giant limestone church holds many treasures, including the sepulcher of Emperor Frederik III, the Altarpiece of Wiener Neustadt, and a lot of old tombs. Guided tours of the cathedral catacombs and historical artifacts are given regularly, making sure you won’t miss out on a single famous dead guy. Take a hike up the 300+ stairs, and you can see a spectacular view of Vienna from St. Stephen’s south tower. Equally as beautiful as what you see from the inside is roof above your head. The cathedral’s giant roof is adorned with colored tiles that are definitely Insta-worthy. Vivaldi’s “Four Seasons” is played each year during the annual summer cathedral concert—haunting, considering the church was the site of the famous composer’s funeral. And if you’re not into real historic facts, the church is also rich in myths and legends about anything from forbidden romances to bread loafs (ask a guide to learn more!).
€4.50. 
Open M-Sa 6am-10pm, Su 7am-10pm. Guided tours M-Sa 10:30am and 3pm, Su 3pm.
SPANISH RIDING SCHOOL
HORSEBACK RIDING
Michaelerplatz 1
01 5339031
While Vienna has world-renowned ballets and operas, what really puts the city a step (or gallop) above the rest is its dancing horses. Okay, so the world-class equestrians of the Spanish Riding School in Vienna’s Hofburg Palace might resent someone referring to their haute ecole (classical equestrian training) as “dancing,” but their practice is as marvelous as any ballet. Vienna’s Spanish Riding School is the oldest of its kind and has preserved its traditional art throughout the years. And despite its name, the horses of the riding school are as Austrian as Mozartkugeln, bred at Piber Federal Stud in Western Austria. The school gets its name not from the home of the horses but rather from their breed, which is the Lipizzan Spanish breed. Once “enrolled” in the Spanish Riding School, the stallions are trained for six years to do things as simple as changing legs to more complicated moves like pirouetting—so maybe making the comparison to a ballet isn’t so ridiculous. While many horses go through this intensive training, only a few make the final cut and have a chance to perform. Of course, horses are not the only animals trained at the Spanish Riding School, as teenagers and young adults are also trained to ride and control the animals, and the horse and rider ultimately perform as one unit. You can see the incredible acts in the school’s gorgeous riding hall. The exquisite baroque architecture itself is worth a visit to the school. Tours of the school are given throughout each day. If you’re dying to see the horses in action but can’t make it to a gala performance, morning trainings with music are also offered to give visitors a glimpse of the show.
Tour of school and other Hofburg museums €22. Show tickets €20-160. Open daily 9am-4pm. (Times may vary based on performance. Check website for details.)
WIENER RIESENRAD
AMUSEMENT PARK
Riesenradplatz 1
01 7295430
Construction in 1897, Wiener Riesenrad is no longer the world’s tallest big wheel, but it is still a famous symbol of Vienna and perhaps an even more famous date place, with its two luxurious gondolas, the Jubilaum and Kaiserwaggon. Today, the Ferris wheel stands at the entrance of Vienna’s Prater amusement park, so after you take your touristy photos, you can spend your whole day (and budget) on a host of rides, from ones that whirl you backwards to ones that whirl you upsidedown and spin you all around. Just be sure to give yourself enough time to get your bearings before checking out the delicious Eisvogel in the square surrounding the park, which fittingly serves award-winning Viennese cuisine.
Entrance to park free. Ride tickets €9, children €4. Open daily Jan-Feb 10am-7:45pm, March-Apr 10am-9:45pm, May-Sept 9am-11:45pm, Oct 10am-9:45pm, Nov-Dec 10am-7:45pm.
STADTPARK
PARK
Main entrance from Johannesgasse
01 40 00 80 42
www.wien.gv.at/umwelt/parks/anlagen/stadtpark.html
Vienna’s first public park, Stadtpark is a must for photos, walks, or just lying around. The huge green covers 28 acres and stretches from the city’s first district to the third. Stadtpark is more than just a great place to loiter; it is also home to many famous statues of dudes we should all know but probably don’t, such as Franz Schubert, Anton Bruckner, and the mayor who created the park, Andreas Zelinka. Zelinka doesn’t ring a bell? Don’t worry, you’re in good company. One guy you should definitely know is Johann Strauss. Not only did he compose the Blue Danube Waltz, but his memorial in Stadtpark is one of the most photographed monuments in the world—yes, shocking that it isn’t Mozart! The gilded bronze monument of the composer playing the violin has been housed in Stadtpark since 1921 and has been selfie central since the birth of the iPhone. Also of note is the picturesque stone bridge that connects the two halves of the park, which are divided by the Wienfluss river. While the bridge, constructed in 1857, may not be as popular as Strauss’s memorial, it is equally photogenic and a beautiful place to take a stroll and some snapshots. For kids or anyone who just really likes to swing, Kinderpark was added to the park only one year after its opening and continues to operate as a playground and site for many pickup football games. For the “I’m-an-artist-not-an-athlete” types, Stadtpark’s Kursalon is a beautiful Italian Renaissance-style building that is used for dances and concerts. And uniting the sporty and artistic is the Kursalon’s delicious Cafe Restaurant Johann—apple strudel is the only way to end a day at Stadtpark.
Free. Open daily 24hr.
KARLSKIRCHE
CHURCH
Kreuzherrengasse 1
1 505 62 94
The green dome of Karlskirche peaks its head between the rows of buildings of Karlsplatz, sparking the curiosity of all who catch a glimpse. Upon closer investigation, you’ll find a beautiful opening in the streets and stores of Karlsplatz that houses this fantastic baroque church. Karlskirche or St. Charles’s Church, was built in 1739, fulfilling a vow taken by Emporer Charles VI during a plague epidemic—history’s ultimate pinky promise. The famous church, often cited as one of the most beautiful churches in Vienna, was consecrated for St. Charles Borromeo, and the exhibits inside display some of his possessions. But perhaps more exquisite than the exhibits (and free) is the view you’ll get by just standing in the breathtaking cathedral and looking up. The entire building is a true baroque masterpiece: its high alter has been restored to look as spectacular as ever, with an abundance of golds and marble; at the top of the alter is a triangular window letting in an almost heavenly light; and its ceiling is painted fantastically. Karlskirche also allows you to climb up to the second floor and get an up-close look at the intricate colors and detailing of the famous building. A highlight to any “My Stay in Vienna” scrapbook, Karlskirche is a must stop in the city.
€6. Open M-Sa 9am-6pm with 30min. lunch break at 12:30pm, Su noon-5:45pm.
TIERGARTEN SCHONBRUNN
ZOO
Maxingstraße 13b
1 87 79 29 40
The Tiegarten Schonbrunn, located at Vienna’s biggest castle, the Schonbrunn, is the oldest (and one of the largest) zoo in the world. It was constructed in 1752 by Emperor Franz I as the royal menagerie. The circular structure that now operates as one of many restaurants in the zoo was originally constructed as the breakfast pavilion for the emperor and his wife, Maria Theresia. Talk about upper crust. One of the most popular exhibits in the zoo is its giant pandas, Yang Yang, Long Hui, Fu Hu, and Fu Long, whose natural birth in 2007 was the first of its kind in all of Europe. Don’t think that because Tiegarten Schonbrunn is old it’s also out of date. In fact, the zoo has aged like wine and gotten better with time. While it preserves its old charm and character, Tiegarten has become quite modern. Its over 500 species are housed in a simulated rainforest house, flooded Amazon, and an arctic region for the zoo’s new polar bears. Tiegarten Schonbrunn was also awarded the title of Europe’s best zoo three times. Make sure to head to the zoo well before its 6:30pm closing time, as many of the animals start falling asleep and hiding around 5:30pm.
€16.50. Open daily Apr-Sept 9am-6:30pm, Oct 9am-5:30pm, Nov-Jan 9am-4:30pm, Feb 9am-5pm, Mar 9am-5:30pm.
HOSTELING INTERNATIONAL MYRTHENGASSE
HOSTEL $
Myrthengasse 7
01 52 36 31 60
As part of an international hostel chain, Hostelling International has the formula for mediocre living down: bed, sheets, and a roof over the head…and maybe some butter and toast to really entice the guests. While a stay at Hosteling International Myrthengasse is definitely preferable to bumming it under a tree, it’s more basic than a 12-year-old Instagramming a pumpkin spice latte. Hosteling International Myrthengasse is all about functionality. The hostel’s location makes it easy to escape into Old Town Vienna, and it’s only a short walk to the bustling downtown. If you are a Hosteling International member, Hosteling International Myrthengasse is perhaps your most economically intelligent move.
Dorms starting at €22. Reception 24hr.
MY MOJO VIE HOSTEL
HOSTEL $
Kaiserstrasse 77, Apt. 8
676 55 111 55
The danger with staying at Mojo Hostel is that you’ll probably never want to leave. In fact, some guests have been known to book the minimum two nights and ended up staying six weeks. Lucky ducks. In order to book a room at this beautiful converted apartment, you must plan far in advance—don’t rely on doing the classic student traveler move of booking the night before. While the hostel may be a decent walk from the city center, it is very close to a metro station that’ll get you to Vienna’s first district in a flash. But honestly, with all the free hostel food and great amenities, you might find yourself staying in more often than you’d think. For your comfort, the hostel offers a full bath (that’s right, even a tub!), towels, comfortable beds, a TV and cozy living room, and a laptop for use in each room. Mojo’s prices may seem a little steep for a hostel, but in the end, the high quality amenities are worth a few extra euro, and the friends you’ll make are priceless.
Rooms starting at €34. Reception 24hr.
BELIEVE IT OR NOT HOSTEL
HOSTEL $
Myrthengasse 10/14
0676 55 00 055
www.believe-it-or-not-vienna.at
Ripley’s Believe It or Not Museum boasts freaking bizarre things. Vienna’s Believe It or Not Hostel boasts the freaking best. A self-proclaimed “all inclusive apartment,” Believe It or Not has the feel of a home more than that of a hostel. It’s interior is stylish, with wood floors, animal skin rugs, white furniture, pillows, steel, guitars, a hammock—the list of chicness is so long that to name everything making Believe it or Not Hostel more put together than you would take up this whole listing. Its location is convenient, as it is in a quiet neighborhood in the old town but is still less than a mile from Hofburg Castle and the busy city. And when hostel host Lilly is around to make breakfast and chat up guests, she acts as though she is inviting you into her home rather than just taking your cash. She is incredibly warm, kind, and personable. The price for perfection is not cheap as Believe It or Not is a bit expensive for a hostel, but look at it this way: skip one meal and instead fill up on the hostel’s free Nutella.
8-bed dorms €35. 4-bed dorms €40. Breakfast free. Reception open daily 8am-noon, if arriving before or after, buzz in with the intercom.
MUSEUM
Berggasse 19
1 319 15 96
Suffering from disruptive dreams? In need of a way to train your pet mouse? Check out Vienna’s Sigmund Freud museum in the ninth district. The museum, located in Vienna’s former Jewish district, is the former residence of the famous psychologist before he emigrated from Austria to Britain during World War II. While you may not work out your Oedipus complex here, you will find a great deal of original Freud paraphernalia displayed in the small museum. It is furnished with couches and chairs that once cushioned the legend and the crazy patients he studied. Also on display are a number of Freud’s papers and studies as well as a documentary on Freud’s life. The museum was started with help from Freud’s daughter, Anna, in 1971 and continues to grow. If you, like most college students, took any type of psychology class during your studies, then getting a look into the digs of the man who caused you all that grief during exam week is a fascinating experience.
€8. Open daily 9am-5pm.
BURGGARTEN
PARK
Josefsplatz 1
1 533 90 83
Of Vienna’s many parks, Burggarten definitely wins “Most Likely to be Full On Any Given Day of the Week.” The park, which is as large as its accolade, is often filled with many picnic blankets and bodies sprawled across its grass. Primarily young Viennese and tourists can be found throughout the historic park, with everyone eating, playing music, juggling, and, more often than not, getting a bit tipsy. The park has two main sections divided by a strip of large trees. Its main entrance on the side of the Ringstrasse opens up to the Mozart Memorial and flowers in the shape of a treble clef. This side is more likely to have tourists taking goofy pictures, so if you can ignore the constant cheesing, you’ll find that this side is less crowded in terms of loiterers and often full of street musicians and jugglers hoping to benefit from the international disturbers of the peace. Behind the barrier of trees is the more popular side for Viennese youth. It is a huge open field adjacent to the Schmetterling Haus (Butterfly House) and the Burggarten Cafe. It’s the perfect place to enjoy Frisbee, footsie, and wine straight from the bottle. Also surrounding Burggarten is the back wall of the majestic Hofburg, which even from behind looks stunning and gives the park a grand touch.
Free. Open daily 24hr.
RATHAUS
CULTURAL SITE
Friedrich-Schmidt-Platz 1
01 525 50
Rathaus means “town hall,” which to you probably means boring meetings or local crazies arguing about noise complaints. But the Rathaus of Vienna is far from mundane. Not only is this gorgeous gothic building, which serves as the city’s town hall, the home of the mayor, but it is also the backdrop of the beautiful Rathauspark. The park is huge and has many green fields and fountains, perfect for wasting away a lazy afternoon. But even the opportunity to loiter in luxury is not the best feature of Rathaus. Throughout the summer, the mayor hosts a number of cultural events in his ultimate front yard throughout the summer. The Rathaus brings the locals of Vienna and tourists together through film, art, and cultural festivals, such as the huge, annual Vienna Pride and Rainbow Parade. If you visit Vienna’s town hall in the summer, you are likely to find yourself in the middle of one of these many fests. But if you miss out and catch the park at one of its quietier moments, embrace the peace of the park and the breathtaking architecture of Vienna’s town hall.
Free. Open daily 24hr.
CAFE
Herrengasse 14
01 5333763
www.palaisevents.at/cafecentral.html
Once a grand bank and stock market house, Palais Ferstel opened Cafe Central as its focus in 1876. The interior of this coffee house looks like it could be located in the Hofburg rather than on a city center street corner. It is composed of huge arches, plush red seating, and perhaps its greatest crown: the best applestrudel in Vienna (making it the best in the world). Famous intellectuals such as Freud and infamous dictators like Hitler have all graced Central’s booths to ponder humanity for hours over the cafe’s near-perfect melanges. But today, one thing you’re almost guaranteed to not see at Cafe Central is any locals. The cafe is a hub for tourists with big cameras and iPhones, taking photos of nearly every bite. Not that anyone can blame them after seeing the decadent, flaky, layer upon layer of warm cinnamon perfection that is the applestrudel or the mountain of whipped cream it comes with. If the strudel isn’t enough sugar for you, you probably have a problem. Still, do yourself a favor and at least look at the other cakes on display in the front of the cafe. Indulge all your senses, fulfill your daily calorie count, and embrace your touristy side—Cafe Central is worth it.
Coffee €3-7. Cakes €3-6. Open M-Sa 7:30am-10pm.
FOOD
MOMEN
HEALTH FOOD $$
Neuer Markt 8a
Face it, if you’ve been in Vienna for any time at all, you’ve probably had at least one of these three things: schnitzel, apple strudel, or McDonald’s. Which means that eating healthily isn’t easy with the plethora of sweets and fried food waiting for you around every corner in Vienna. Fortunately, Momen, located in Vienna’s first district, changes the game and offers a selection of healthy, organic, and delicious food. Momen’s menu primarily consists of three things: hummus, steak, and salad. You can get hummus and guacamole, hummus and chicken, and even hummus and either New York Strip or Flank Steak. If you aren’t into hummus, 1) What is wrong with you? 2) Momen’s other main entrees have just as many unique, fresh, and delicious choices. On top of being a health foods restaurant, Momen is also an outdoor hookah bar—interesting combo, but we won’t question it because it gives the restaurant a cool vibe and makes it a true hummus hangout.
Hummus €9-16. Steak €13-20. Open daily 11am-11pm.
CAFE ESPRESSO
CAFE $
Burggasse 57
0676 596 16 45
The bamboo wall blocking the outdoor seating from the street and the Hawaiian flowered umbrellas blocking customers from UV rays make Cafe Espresso stand out from the millions of other coffee shops in Vienna. The beach feel, juxtaposed with the beautiful old world feel that is inescapable in Vienna, gives the cafe a stylish but chill vibe. It’s the perfect place to relax with a cappuccino and your computer (or, who knows, a real book). Not only is Cafe Espresso good for espresso (duh) and loitering, it also serves delicious food. Start the day off right by devouring a “Fluffy Omelette” that lives up to its name or, if still recovering from the night before, try Espresso’s hangover cure of eggs with cheese and ham on a delicious roll. And when that doesn’t quite rid you of the jackhammer in your head, don’t be afraid to flop out on Espresso’s retro booths or lay your head on the table. That’s not rude. It’s just that chill here.
Coffee €2-5. Open M-F 7:30am-1am, Sa-Su 10am-1am.
ICE CREAM $
Rotenturmstraße 14
664 311 91 95
Despite being a tiny shop surrounded by the big department stores of Vienna’s Rotenturmstraße street, Eis-Greissler is impossible to miss (largely due to the women’s-restroom-length line stretching from its counter out onto the sidewalk). When you realize that Eis-Greissler is just another ice cream shop, the long line might have you scratching your head. But just wait. Flavors like goat cheese, sour cream blueberry, and elder flower are just a few of the options you’ll find on Eis-Greissler’s menu. Goat cheese ice cream might sound freaking bizarre, but one lick and you’ll wonder why you ever settled for basic bitches like vanilla and chocolate (although those classics are available as well). Apart from its unique flavors, Eis-Greissler’s ingredients also make it special—everything that goes into your heavenly scoop(s) are from local farms and 100% organic. (Organic means healthy right?) Whether you’re in Vienna for a month, a day, or a mere 30min. stop by Eis-Greissler ASAP. You’ll never look at ice cream the same way.
1 scoop €2. 2 scoop €3.40. Open daily 11am-11pm.
FREIRAUM
RESTAURANT, BAR $$$
Mariahilfer Straße 117
01 59 69 600
If Freiraum’s chic appearance doesn’t intimidate you, step into this huge restaurant, bar, lounge, and cafe that is just as trendy as it appears. Freiraum’s menu has as many types of cuisine as a hipster has favorite foreign films. You can choose anything Thai to Italian to American to good old schnitzel. Its cocktails, as expensive as they are trendy, are refreshing and delicious; its delicious, thin crust pizza is so good it’ll be gone in seconds; and its curry has the perfect amount of kick. Freiraum even makes schnitzel elegant. On a sunny day, Freiraum’s open windows make this a place you could waste your whole day.
Entrees €12-25. Drinks €5-12. Open M-Th 8am-2am, F-Sa 8am-4am, Su 8am-2am.
LE BOL
CAFE $$
Neuer Markt 14
06 99 10 30 18 99
True coffee lovers know that a cup is simply not enough. A bowl, on the other hand, is every coffee lover’s fantasy. If the name isn’t a dead giveaway, Le Bol is where these dreams come true. This French-inspired cafe in Vienna’s first district is popular for its bowls of delicious joe as well as its fine pastries, sandwiches, and snack plates. Even more unique about than the dishware is where Le Bol serves its espresso: while it has a large outdoor dining area and a few intimate tables inside, Le Bol calls itself “la table commune de Vienna.” For those of you who don’t speak French and can’t figure out the rather obvious translation, this means “the common table of Vienna.” Step inside the warm cafe, and you’ll understand why. In the center of the cafe’s main dining room is a large rectangular table that seats nearly 20 people. Here people come together to share interesting conversation and loads of dinner stories—like your family’s Christmas dinner, except with less dysfunction. In true Viennese style, people sit for hours reading, conversing, and relaxing at the cafe’s tables, big or small.
Coffee €2.50-5. Entrees €6-13. Open daily 8am-10pm.
BITZINGER WURSTELSTAND ALBERTINA
VIENNESE $
Augustinerstraße 1
1 533 10 26
Bitzinger Wurstelstand Albertina may look like just another food stand selling hotdogs and pretzels, but there’s a reason its line is so impressive: it’s that damn good. The wursts of Bitzinger Wurstelstand Albertina are known throughout Vienna for being among the top street foods. Juicy, tender, and savory, these wursts are heavenly on a sober day and downright orgasmic on a drunken nights. And just because Bitzinger Wurstelstand Albertina is a food stand doesn’t mean it’s simple. You can choose from a variety of hotdogs and wursts here—some served spicy with curry, others traditional with mustard. The most popular wurst is a classic filled with pockets of melted cheese. The dogs can be served in a bun for easy transport or sliced on a plate. Either way, the location of Bitzinger Wurstelstand Albertina right next to Burggarten park makes it the perfect place to get cheap eats on the go.
Wursts €3-6. Open daily 11am-midnight.
CASTELLETTO
CAFE $$
Rotenturmstraße 24
01 535 44 83
If the dangling gold lights of Castelletto don’t catch your eye, the even more fantastical gelato creations here surely will. Located in the busy Schwedenplatz, Castelletto is a popular summer hangout for both locals and tourists. The cafe, restaurant, and gelato stand has very limited indoor seating, but it has a huge dining space outside. If ice cream, cookies, and fudge aren’t at the bottom of your food pyramid, you should first try reevaluating your priorities, but if that doesn’t work for you, go ahead and check out the rest of Castelletto’s menus. The cafe has a number of options, from salads to soups to steak and salmon. With its perfect location and sell-your-soul-for-them sweets, Castelletto is a worthwhile stop on any day in Vienna.
Entrees €8-15. Gelato €1.50-6. Open daily 7am-midnight.
STEINDL
VIENNESE $$
Stumpergasse 59
1 596 52 76
While only a turn away from the busy city center, Steindl is a quiet, chill spot to get a good meal. With its relaxed bar, simple decor, and all too cool owners, Steindl will wrap you in relaxation with or without the help of wine. Its menu includes traditional Viennese delicacies but with Steindl’s own gourmet touches. Schnitzel is served with tomato and mozzarella, and pastas include exotic mushrooms and rich cream sauces. Like your mom’s home cooking, this cuisine somehow hits the spot. But unlike your mom’s home cooking, the flavors here are a bit more creative and complex. The food of Steindl looks as fancy as it sounds, and while dishes are chic and stylish, the restaurant itself is casual. You might feel so comfortable in Steindl’s wooden booths that you get the urge to sling off your shoes and put up your feet. Although frequented by many tourists, especially due its proximity to a popular hostel, Steindl’s crowd includes many locals.
Entrees €7-20. Drinks €2-10. Open M-F 10am-10pm, Sa 3-8pm. Bar open M-Sa until midnight.
INDISCHES NAMASTE
INDIAN $$
Seidengasse 41
01 523 80 60
Indisches Namaste is the underdog you love to root for. It’s a small, family owned Indian restaurant just a few blocks from Vienna’s Westbanhof train station. Run by an Indian husband and wife duo, Namaste is quite the mom and pop operation, with the wife cooking and the husband serving. This makes sitting down at Namaste feel almost like stepping into someone’s home for dinner instead of going to a restaurant. When you eat at Namaste, you’re never quite sure what you’re going to get—sometimes its doors may not open until 20min. after their 6pm dinner service begins, and you aren’t guaranteed to find chicken tandoori being served here, but as they say, when one door closes, another one opens. And any one of Namaste’s open doors is delicious and authentic and full of flavor. But beware, when you are warned of the dark green sauces’ spiciness, it isn’t because your waiter thinks you’re a lightweight—it will truly make your mouth burn.
€8-15. Open for lunch daily 11am-3pm. Dinner daily 6-11pm.
CAFE $
Stubenring 24
01 5126115
Cafe Pruckel is perhaps the least touristy of the traditional cafes in Vienna’s city center. Stepping into Pruckel is like stepping into the ‘60s. The decor is retro, with old cafe booths and beautiful chandeliers. Perhaps the nicest modern addition to Pruckel is the distinct smoking section, which is separated from the rest of the restaurant by a large glass door, keeping the main dining area smelling like cappuccino rather than cigarettes. Overall, Cafe Pruckel lives up to its title as a classic Viennese cafe. If you aren’t diehard enough to trade occasionally slow service for authenticity, its convenient location across from Stadtpark and delicious cakes might sway you to give this famous cafe a go.
Coffee €2-6. Cakes €2-4. Open daily 8:30am-10pm.
FIGMULLER
VIENNESE $$
Wollzeile 5
01 59 69 600
It’s no secret that Figmuller is the place to get Wiener Schnitzel. It’s also no secret that Wiener Schnitzel is the food to get in Vienna. Put these two facts together, and it means you will definitely be making a trip to this small, traditional Viennese restaurant. Although all the food served at Figmuller is Viennese, its cliental is anything but. This historical restaurant opened over 100 years ago and has since become a hot spot for tourists in search of the world’s best schnitzel. While words like “best” are hard to quantify, “bigggest” is easily measurable, and Figmuller’s larger-than-your-face-sized schnitzel are pretty incomparable. Along with the giant fried meat, you’ll need to pack in some fruits and vegetables, too; Figmuller suggests pairing its famous schnitzel with traditional potato salad cranberry sauce. While all the add-ons might make for a pricey meal, live it up and indulge.
Entrees €12-20. Open daily 11am-10:30pm.
PHIL
CAFE $
Gumpendorfer Straße 10-12
01 5810489
With its shelves full of books ranging from the mainstream Hunger Games series to artsy picture books, Phil feels more like an intellectual hipster’s living room than a cafe. While all Viennese cafes expect loitering, Phil is designed for it. In the back, it has good work tables surrounded by comfortable couches and plush chairs, and its library-sized book collection is free for hours of consumption. Along with all the delectable artsiness waiting to be devoured is a delicious selection of coffee, tea, breakfasts, and sandwiches. Here, you can get anything from just a cup of tea to a food baby-worthy meal and then sit around for hours. If its interior and customers weren’t hip enough, Phil also boasts a wide range of organic, vegetarian, and vegan food. So ditch your touristy ways for a few hours and lose yourself in a world of literature, comfy couches, and caffeine.
Meals €8-10. Drinks €2-6. Open M 5pm-1am, Tu-Su 9am-1am.
NIGHTLIFE
TEL AVIV BEACH
BAR
Donaukanal Straße 26
de-de.facebook.com/telavivbeach
The resort town of Vienna is known for its sandy white beaches and crashing ocean waves. That last sentence was a lie. Have you seen a map recently? Austria is landlocked. But this geographical problem doesn’t keep the bars of Vienna from adopting a beach theme. Tel Aviv Beach Bar is one of many resort-themed bars along the Danube—or as the Viennese call it, Donau—River. Its (imported) white sand, beach chairs, and umbrellas transport you to the beautiful coast of Israel…even if you can’t so much as dip your toes in the Donau. While Tel Aviv Beach Bar closes fairly early and is no real place to party, it has a chill, come-as-you-are vibe that is perfect for relaxing or pregaming before hitting some of the clubs along the river. If there is a big sports game going on, Tel Aviv is the place to go to avoid the feel of a standard sports bar while still keeping an eye on the score. If you aren’t into watching the big screen, you can dangle your feet over the edge of the Danube’s wall and chat or relax. Although Tel Aviv Beach is a big date spot or place to hang out with a group of friends, it’s easy to bond with fellow sports fans or mojito lovers. Tel Aviv Beach does a wonderful job supplying all the sand and drinks necessary to make you think you’re at a real beach resort, but don’t take the theme too far: while shorts and bare feet are both acceptable, leave the bikini back in the backpack.
Beer and wine €2-6. Mixed drinks €5-12. Open daily noon-midnight.
FLEX
CLUB
Augartenbrücke 1
01 5337525
Are you into guys with gauges, chicks with shaved heads, or jumping around like no one is watching? If you answered yes to any of the above, Flex just might be the club for you. If you answered yes to all of the above, this small club along the side of the Danube was literally made for you. Although a popular club in Vienna, Flex maintains an offbeat vibe. Its crowd is young and casual and generally grungy. You probably won’t be hearing any of your favorite top 40 jams at Flex, but rather a mix of electronic, house, and reggae. The unassuming, unpretentious vibe of Flex allows for great dancing, which really means horrible dancing that is a tremendous amount of fun. Feeding off the high energy, you’ll find yourself jumping from corner to corner, not afraid of who is watching. Flex is an ideal club for those looking to burn off the calories of booze. With its cool crowd and ultra-trippy clips from Alice and Wonderland that are projected on the wall, Flex is the perfect, balls-to-the-wall party zone in Vienna.
Cover €12. Drinks €5-12. Open daily 8pm-6am.
SUMMER STATION
DANCING
Floridsdorf
650 50 06 954
Looking to escapes your fellow overly-eager tourists and the overly-commercial areas of the city? Summer Station is the place for you. Located on the Danube Island (or the Donau, as Austrians call it), Summer Station is an island retreat in an ocean of loud, high-heeled nightlife. It hosts outdoor parties on the little strip of land in the Danube every night of the week, and its large dance floor sees everything from Salsa Thursdays to “Freaky” Fridays. Regardless of the music style, locals make the trek to the island club for one reason: to dance. While big sporting events may be played on screens in the background and delicious Indian food is served at the bar, the dance floor is constantly packed. Couples and friends of all ages storm the floor to show off their moves—and we’re not talking about dropping, dipping, or dougying anything. Instead, Summer Station is full of people who love to swing dance or salsa or who are willing to try their hand at real dancing. Don’t be intimidated by the twirling pros before you—the crowd at Summer Station is excited to help newcomers pick up a few cha-cha steps and spins. And whether you find that you have two left feet or were born to dance, all levels are encouraged to groove to the DJ’s superb music selection.
Free. Open daily 11am-11pm.
L..K BAR
Salzgries 17
067 67 06 81 24
You know that big comfy couch that seems to eat everything? Once something disappears into the cracks of its huge, plushy cushion, there is no hope in getting it back. At the L..k Bar near Vienna’s Schwedenplatz, the unreachable sofa items are people, usually intoxicated, usually having the times of their lives. The L..k Bar takes Vienna’s traditional loitering to a whole new level, as the walls of the second floor of this two-story bar are lined with giant sofas and TVs. In between is a hip bar serving decently priced beer and a plethora of shots. The service is fast and efficient for the young international and local crowd. This stylish, reasonably priced joint may seem like a perfect pregaming option, but this only stands true if your company remains downstairs in the more hyped, pool table environment. Upstairs, the drunker the crowd gets, the more appealing the couches become, and the more likely it is that you’ll skip the club for a good snooze. L..k Bar is a great place to go with a group of friends who you neither mind drooling in front of nor chatting with for hours.
Beer €2.20. Shots €1.20. Open M-Sa 8pm-4am.
WIEN&CO
WINE BAR
Universitätsring 12
050 706 3142
Want to step away from the craziness of the club for a sophisticated night out? Head to Vienna’s popular Wien&Co wine bar. The concept of Wien&Co is unique. On one side is a little wine store with a large selection of Austria’s finest wines, along with international brands. The prices range greatly, from inexpensive favorites to bottles for high rollers only. Just don’t expect to be finding your favorite Three Buck Chuck here—you said you wanted a sophisticated night, remember? Once you make your selection, head to the opposite side of the building, where you’ll find a restaurant and bar. You can sit outside or indoors and satisfy your incoming drunchies by munching on delicious gourmet breads and cheeses or a full meal as a waiter pours you your wine selection at the perfect temperature. If you’re not looking to buy a whole bottle of wine, the bar serves individual glasses as well as a variety of liquors. Despite its location in the tourist-infested Stephenplatz, the bar is mainly full of elegant locals, yet the cool environment is still welcoming to the stray traveler, and after a few glasses of wine, conversation rolls easily despite possible language barriers. Like many Viennese bars, Wien&Co allows smoking indoors, which is still considered fashionable in here. If you’re sensitive to smoke, definitely grab a place outside the bar.
Prices vary greatly based on wine quality. Open daily 10am-1am.
SAULENHALLE
CLUB
Heldenplatz
1 532 42 41
Standing only a door away from the famous, very posh Volksgarten, Saulenhalle is like a beauty queen’s up-and-coming little sister. While it may not be on as high of a pedestal as its neighboring club, Saulenhalle is constantly boasting a line of high-heeled girls and blazered boys. The club is composed of a huge, long room with a bar at the entrance and a dance floor toward the rear. Along its walls are huge TVs and couches, and DJs often make appearances here, playing R&B and hip hop and proving that Pit Bull’s status as Mr. Worldwide truly extends beyond the Americas. If the cool interior gets a bit too stuffy, the club has an outdoor area for warm summer nights, with yet another dance floor surrounded by candlelit tables and a bar. Unfortunately, classy clubs mean fucking expensive booze, so do yourself a favor and pregame on that bottle of wine before coming face to face with Saulenhalle’s beastly glasses. But in the end, whether you’re wine wasted or sober as can be, Saulenhalle’s good music and beautiful crowd promises a good night under the Viennese stars.
Prices vary based on event. See online for details. Open W 10pm-6am, Th-Sa 11pm-6am.
IF DOGS RUN FREE
BAR
Gumpendorfer Straße 10
01 913 21 32
While it’s named after an old Bob Dylan song, this bar, located on Vienna’s all too hip Gumpendorfer Strasse, also lends its name out to some pretty entertaining drinking games and profound rounds of the “what if” game. One thing Vienna is not lacking in is hipster bars, perhaps making chic, minimalistic joints such as If Dogs Run Free the new mainstream. Either way, the bar stands apart from its crunchy peers simply due to its high level of execution. Everything, from the bar’s sleek, futuristic interior—red geometric sculptures hang over a cool gray bar—to its unique cocktails, is spot on. If you are looking to get the basic cocktails, If Dogs Run Free is not your place. But then again, if you are looking to get the basic cocktails, maybe you aren’t off-beat enough for the bar in the first place. While If Dogs Run Free can whip up some classic cocktails, it is best known as serving interesting, less mainstream mixes like concoctions famous during the American Prohibition Era. Note: If Dogs Run Free isn’t the place to get your dance on. (Twerking will most surely be frowned on.) However, it is a chill bar to pregame at or to get lost in sharing ideas and discussing art well into the wee hours of the morning.
Wine €3.20-5, cocktails €8-9. Open Tu-W 5pm-2am, Th-Sa 5pm-4am, Su 5pm-2am.
PRATERSAUNA
CLUB
Waldsteingartenstraße 135
1 729 19 27
Nightclub Pratersauna is a pool party unlike any you’ve ever experienced. While this is in part due to the fact that the pool isn’t actually open for swimming on most nights (for obvious safety reasons), it is also due to the fantastic quality of parties promised at the popular club. Pratersauna is the place to be after dark in Vienna. It has multiple dance floors, which play primarily electronic, techno, and house music. Despite the club’s size, it is almost guaranteed to be packed and have a line out the door. As suggested by its name, Pratersauna is a renovated sauna turned club in Prater park. Hints of the old, retro design can be found throughout the club, but they are masked by modern lighting and contemporary furniture, bars, and surprisingly beautiful bathrooms. If dancing is not your thing, you can lounge poolside on one of the love seats or in Pratersauna’s large garden.
Price ranges from €8-12 based on event. Club open daily 9pm-6am. Pool open 1pm-9pm.
BABENBERGER PASSAGE
CLUB
Burgring 3 / Babenbergerstrasse 1
01 961 88 00
If you ask any young Viennese party animal where the “poshest” place to get down is, he or she will probably point you to Babenberger Passage Nightclub. Passage is pronounced so it rhymes with “massage,” making it sound even cooler and more into itself. The entrance to this popular underground nightclub is a bit hard to find, as the club is literally under the sidewalks outside Burggarten Park. Its door can easily be mistaken for a metro entrance during the day, but at night, there is no mistaking the pounding base and red lights radiating from the tunnel entrance for your average U-bahn. Once underground, you’ll find a huge open room with a dance floor surrounded by four bars, a DJ, and luxurious white couches—some of which are roped off for the club’s VIPs. Although the blue and purple dance floor is pretty empty before midnight, many students and frugal party animals filter in before the witching hour to save a good deal of euro, as the club offers discounts before the clock strikes midnight. You’ll need the extra cash if you plan on indulging in one of the bars well crafted, extremely overpriced drinks. Around 1am, the VIPs flood in and order buckets of vodka; this is when the club really starts picking up and the dance floor is crowded with Vienna’s best dressed. The music and attire depend on what day of the week you’re there. Wednesday is Club Cosmopolitan’s R&B, Thursday is KutKlub’s nostalgic retro hip hop, Friday is Flash Friday rap and R&B, and Saturday is Posh Club’s hip hop. Real talk: basically all of these themed nights are the same, but the different names give you an excuse to try out the club night after night. If you were sensible enough not to pack your high heels and nicest clothes in your travel bag, don’t worry: some of Passage’s younger crowd are more concerned with showing off their moves than their Gucci, and your go-to jeans and night-out shirt won’t be turned down.
Price ranges from €10-15 based on event. Open Tu 8pm-4am, W-Th 10pm-4am, F-Sa 11pm-6am.
ESSENTIALS
Practicalities
• TOURIST OFFICE: Friedrich-Schmidt-Platz 1 (1 525 50 Open daily M-F 8am-6pm.) The City Information Centre at Vienna’s City Hall has brochures and pamphlets about Vienna’s many attractions as well as onsite staff to answer any of your questions regarding the city.
• POST OFFICE: Most of Vienna’s post offices are open daily 8am-6pm. Two post offices with extended hours are Post Office 1010 Wien (Fleischmarkt 19), which is open M-F 7am-10pm and weekends 9am-10pm, Post Office at the West Train Station (Fleischmarkt 19), which is open M-F 7am-7pm, Sa 9am-6pm, Su 9am-2pm.
• GLBT: Austria is considered a conservative country. While same-sex partnerships have been recently legalized, the country’s strong Catholicism has stood in the way of complete equality. HOSI (Homosexual Initiative) provides a list of GLBT-friendly establishments in Salzburg. (Gabelsbergerstr. 26 662 43 59 27 www.hosi.or.at/english Open M-W 10am-5pm, F 10am-5pm.)
Emergency
• AMBULANCE: 112
• FIRE DEPARTMENT: 122
• POLICE: 133
• 24-HOUR MEDICAL ASSISTANCE: 1 513 95 95
• PHARMACY: Pharmacies in Vienna are called Apotheke. Medicine can only be bought at pharmacies and not drugstores. Apothekes take turns operating at nights and on weekends, so you must check online at www.apotheker.or.at to see which pharmacy is open if you need to purchase something past 6pm or on a weekend.
• MEDICAL SERVICES: Vienna’s hospitals are internationally renowned. The biggest is General Hospital AKH (Währinger Gürtel 18-20). It can be reached at }01 40 4000. This hospital has English speakers, although you may also contact Vienna Medical Society Service Bureau for Foreign Patients at }01 501 51253 with inquiries for English-speaking doctors and hospitals.
Getting There
By Plane
Vienna International Airport is about 16km east of the city in Schwechat. There are many public transportation options to quickly and easily get into the city: The City Airport Train (CAT) operates daily between 5:30am-11:30pm every 30min. and takes about 16min. to get from the airport to Vienna. It costs €11 for a one-way ticket, which can be bought from ticket machines and tourists offices at the airport as well as at www.cityairporttrain.com.
Airport buses stop at City Centre, Westbanhof Station, and Kaisermühlen Vienna International Centre VIC. Buses run every 30min. from around 5am-11:30pm, depending on the bus. Tickets are €8 and may be purchased from ticket machines and tourists offices at the airport. Check www.postbus.at/en/Airportbus/Vienna_AirportLines for specific route and time details.
By Public Transportation
Getting around Vienna on public transportation is easy with the city’s buses, trams, trains, and new metro lines. The U-Bahn is Vienna’s subway. Tickets for public transportation are a uniform €1.70, but you can purchase the Vienna card for €19, which allows unlimited use of public transportation in 72hr. increments. These are sold at information, tourist, and public transportation offices, as well as over the phone at 01 798 44 00148. For more information about transportation in Vienna, call Vienna Public Transport Information Center at 01 790 9100.
By Taxi
Taxis in Vienna have a basic, regulated fare of €2.50, plus €1.20 per kilometer.
Salzburg has gone soft. What used to be the site of pillaging and burning, churches falling into piles of divine rubble, and Mozart clawing around the edges of truth sonata after sonata is now perfectly content to orient most of the typical tourist experience around an admittedly well-shot but absurdly plotted movie starring Julie Andrews and Christopher Plummer. Alas, all cities cannot retain their crusading kick-assery, and it’s probably a good thing for Salzburg’s architecture, considering everything in the city has been destroyed and rebuilt multiple times. But then again, you would be remiss to define Salzburg solely by mountain-twirling and wistful singing about Edelweiss. For one thing, the definitive symbol of Salzburg is a fortress (Festung Hohensalzburg) that has never once been conquered. If you fancy yourself an ascetic or devotee more than a war-buff, Salzburg boasts a dozen more-famous-than-the-next cathedrals (the Dom), abbeys (Nonnberg Abbey), churches (Franziskaner Kirche), and monasteries (the Augustinian Monastery) and then there’s the shopping. Getreidsgasse is the Diagon Alley of Europe; its hundreds of stores are packed along the street, each with a classy metal banner hanging outside the front
ORIENTATION
Salzburg is divided into East and West Salzburg by the blue-green river Salzach. On the west side lies most of the Old Town, a maze of plazas and alleyways and, yes, Catholic cathedrals. The dominant feature of this side of town is the looming Festung Hohensalzburg, the large white fortress that spits out a small train car every 10min. to bring weary sightseers back to ground level after carrying them up to enjoy the view. The fun extends to the north of the area with Mönchsberg, the long, narrow mountain upon which the fortress sits. Four bridges connect the older part of the city to East Salzburg, which has a more open, boulevard city layout. More than likely, you’ll be entering this part of the city through the Hauptbahnhof.
East Salzburg
East Salzburg is a series of shady lanes, wide streets, and some of the city’s newer sights. The main place to visit is the Mirabell Palace and Gardens, which lies just east of the river Salzach and has a fabulous view of the Festung Hohensalzburg opposite the fast-flowing stream. Most of the main attractions lie within the ring of Franz-Josef-Straße that encircles the part of the Old Town that bleeds into East Salzburg and runs between the Salzach and the Kapuzinerberg Hill. Unless you’re looking for something specific, there really is no reason to go north of the Hauptbahnhof, as this area is mostly industrial and corporate, offering little in the way of sightseeing joys.
West Salzburg is where all of the tourists dwell. The streets are charming and nestled between sights more famous than the next, and every business has a small metal plaque outside to satisfy foreign curiosity. Once you enter the city proper, the main thoroughfare is Getreidegasse, along which every international store and chain restaurant (as well as some choice local places and Mozart’s birthplace) lies. Between Getreidegasse and the blockade of Mönchsberg are huge open plazas that crop up one after the other, as is the case with Mozartpl., Residenzpl., and Dompl. The pedestrian area extends throughout this whole area, reaching an eastern boundary at Nonntaler Hauptstr. Past this point, the area again becomes commercialized, and there isn’t much to see. Working in from the river, the nightlife area is concentrated around Rudolfskai, which lies along the river banks south of the Staatsbrücke.
SIGHTS
East Salzburg
EAGLE’S NEST (KEHLSTEIN)
VIEW
Kehlstein, Germany
490 86 52 29 69
When der Führer reached his 50th birthday, you can imagine there was a bit of a scramble to pick a present for his special day. The answer? A super-high lookout point in the Bavarian mountains. The lookout point now hosts a restaurant that tries not to dwell upon what happened here 70 years ago. However, tourists still shoot up in a 40-story elevator to view the Octagonal Room (where Hitler entertained dignitaries) and the Pine Room (Eva Braun’s favorite) as well as for the tremendous views of the mountains themselves. Be advised that visiting the Eagle’s Nest involves crossing the border into Germany; there are rarely border controls, but bring your passport just in case.
Salzburg Hauptbahnhof to Berchtesgaden Hauptbahnhof. Take bus #838 and get off at the Dokumentation stop. You’ll have to pay to take the special shuttles up to the top; otherwise you can take the 2-3hr. hike on the clearly marked path for free. Bus and lift return trip €15.50, children under 14 €9. Fun Fact: At the end of The Sound of the Music, when the von Trapp family climbs over the mountains, they are actually crossing over into Germany and would have been in the line of sight of Kehlstein. Open May 17-Oct 8:20am-5pm.
MIRABELL PALACE
PALACE, GARDENS
Mirabellpl. 4
66 28 07 20
Are those drag queens? Yes. A man playing “Kalinka” on the accordion? Yes. Is that a string quartet playing Mozart? Of course. Is there any reason why you should not visit the Mirabell Gardens? No. The Pegasus statue and rainbow explosion of flower formations define Austrian aesthetics in one fell swoop: a love of mythology and outrageous beauty. The drag queens are a bit outside of this purview, but you might still find them dressed up in traditional Austrian garb and willing to take pictures with confused tourists.
Bus #1, 2, 3, 5, 6, 25, or 32 to Mirabellpl. (Schloss). Gardens free. Palace open M 8am-4pm, Tu 1-4pm, W-Th 8am-4pm, F 1-4pm. Gardens open daily 6am-dusk.
SALT MINES
MINES
Bergwerkstr. 83, Germany
49 (0)86 52 60 02 20
If we were to time travel, the number one commodity we would take with us to fifth-century Salzburg would be salt itself (a pound of which in die gute alte Zeit costs as much as a pound of gold). The Reichenbach mines are now in Germany after the principality of Salzburg was cut down to size in the 19th century, and they’re still churning out good ol’ NaCl to this day. The tour is a bit like a mining amusement park tour, with a train that brings you to the center, a series of slides from one part of the cave to the other, and a boat ride across a lake complete with technicolor lighting effects. Be advised that visiting the Salt Mines involves crossing the border into Germany; there are rarely border controls, but it is advised that you bring your passport.
Take the ÖBB rail to Berchtesgaden Hauptbahnhof. Take bus #840 from the Bahnhof Berchtesgaden. Get off at the Salzbergwerk. €15, with Salzburg card €12. Open daily May-Oct 9am-5pm; Nov-Apr 11am-3pm.
CAPUCHIN MONASTERY
HIKING, VIEW
Kapuzinerberg 6
662 87 35 63 0
If you want The Passion of the Christ without all of the crazy Mel Gibson Aramaic, then the Capuchin monks have something for you. The monastery is a place of pilgrimage due to its stunning, 17th-century Baroque Stations of the Cross running up the side of the hill that overlooks all of East Salzburg. An expansive parking garage now lies under the mountain, but ignore that and use your own two feet for a mini-climb up the city’s most accessible mountain.
Bus #4 to Hofwirt. Walk along Linzergasse and turn left onto Kapuzinberg. Climb the mountain. Free. Open M-Sa 6am-6pm, Su 8am-6pm.
West Salzburg
FESTUNG HOHENSALZBURG
FORTRESS
Mönchsberg 34
662 84 24 30 11
The only thing that has ever invaded this millennium-old fortress are tourists streaming from either the funicular that runs up the mountain or the perilous footpath (by which you literally have to pass through die Höllenpforte—“The Gates of Hell”). Overlooking the rest of the city, the castle provides the requisite beautiful view along with a series of eccentric attractions, such as a torture chamber and a marionette museum. (We know that, somewhere, Chuckie is proud). The best way to attack the castle is by avoiding the pricey souvenir gambits; instead, work your way down the castle from the top parapet that the on-site maps recommend as the second stop.
Bus #3, 5, 6, 8, 20, 25, or 28 to Rathaus. Enter the Old Town by walking south along the river and head toward the Dom (with the green domes). Go toward the mountain behind it until you get to Festungsgasse. The sign for the funicular is large. If you want to walk up the footpath, turn right and continue along the road uphill until you reach the entrance. Fortress via Festungbahn €11, via footpath €7.80. Ticket includes admission to all museums in the fortress as well as an audio guide. Open daily Jan-Apr 9:30am-5pm; May-Sept 9am-7pm; Oct-Dec 9:30am-5pm.
DOM
CATHEDRAL
Dompl.
662 80 47 79 50
If the Salzburg Dom represents anything, it’s the utter absurdity of war and religious feuds. In 1167, the whole shebang was burned down because pyromaniac Frederich Barbarossa refused to acknowledge the “anti-Pope” Paschal. Like seemingly everything in Western Europe, the church was also destroyed in 1944 when an American bomb collapsed the cathedral completely. Despite all the trials and tribulations, the organ is still in good condition, and frequent concerts emphasize the visual delight with auditory stimuli.
Bus #3, 5, 6, 8, 20, 25, or 28 to Rathaus. From the stop, go into the Old Town and turn left onto Getreidegasse until you come out onto the huge Residenepl. The cathedral is on the opposite side of the plaza. Donations encouraged. Open Jan-Feb M-Sa 8am-5pm, Su 1-5pm; Mar-Apr M-Sa 9am-6pm, Su 1-6pm; May-Sept M-Sa 8am-7pm, Su 1-7pm; Oct M-Sa 8am-6pm, Su 1-6pm, Nov M-Sa 8am-5pm, Su 1-5pm; Dec M-Sa 8am-6pm, Su 1-6pm.
YOHO INTERNATIONAL YOUTH HOSTEL
HOSTEL $$
Paracelsusstr. 9
662 87 96 49
No pirates to be found here, but you will discover pretty much every other treasure a traveler could want—including Wi-Fi, a bar, breakfast, a Nintendo Wii, and the requisite The Sound of Music nightly screening—at this large hostel. All rooms have decor that shies away from institutional metal bunks in favor of light wood and buttercup-yellow sheets. The hostel bar serves €3.50 mojitos and usually ends up packed with a cheery, somewhat-raucous crowd watching the soccer game.
Bus #22 to Wirtschaftskammer. Walk east along Lasserstr. and turn right onto Paracelsusstr. 4- and 6-bed dorms (male, female, and mixed) €20-23; singles €40. Linens and keycard €5 deposit. Reception 24hr.
HAUS CHRISTINE
B&B $$
Panoramaweg 3
662 45 67 73
If you and a friend or two came to Austria to experience the bright, scenic side of the alpine country, then this B&B nestled in the hills will be perfect to feast your eyes upon. The rooms are done up in light pastels, with a breakfast room that looks out into the surrounding forest. It’s a blessing and curse that the location is so beautiful, as it is a bit more of a hassle to get into the city than at other hostels, but the view comes at a price that’s worth paying.
Bus #21 to Werner-von-Siemens-Platz. Go east on Söllheimer Straße and turn left onto Bergstr. Haus Christine is clearly marked on the left. Breakfast included. Doubles €40; triples €57; quads €72. Reception flexible depending on guests’ schedule.
GASTHAUS HINTERBRÜHL
GUESTHOUSE $$$
Schanzlgasse 12
662 84 67 98
With its pine-carved headboards, you’d think that this hotel was pulled straight from the Laura Ingalls Wilder prairie. Bizarrely enough, it’s only a 2min. walk from the Old Town and is a good bet for those who want old-fashioned Austrian charm (the building is 800 years old) as opposed to the über-modern spaceship style that most chain hotels favor. The best part is the garden and the views of the Dom against a mountain backdrop.
Bus #5 or 25 to Justizgebäude. Walk away from the river and turn right onto Schanzlgasse. Breakfast included. Singles €42; doubles €66; triples €79. Call ahead if arriving on Sunday.
MOZART’S BIRTHPLACE
MUSEUM
Getreidegasse 9
662 84 43 13
While Vienna tries to emphasize that it’s the city Mozart actually wanted to live in, Salzburg is indeed where the prodigious story began. This museum provides a startlingly cumulative portrait of what it was like to dwell among the 16,000 Salzburg residents of Mozart’s time and also houses the master’s own tiny violin and dozens upon dozens of original works. The museum is a study in romanticizing Mozart’s life, and as a particularly apt plaque for the boy-turned-man-wonder states: “In the Romantic era, Mozart’s allegedly tragic life circumstances corresponded to the romantic image of the unappreciated genius who had do die at such an early age.”
Bus #3, 5, 6, 8, 20, 25, or 28 to Rathaus. Walk away from the river into the Old Town and turn right onto Getreidegasse. The museum is on the left in a bright yellow building. €7. Open daily 9am-5:30pm.
MONASTERY, CHURCH, CEMETERY
St. Peter Bezirk 1/2
662 84 45 76
If you happen to be the sibling of a famous German-speaking musician, you’re probably buried in St. Peter’s Friedhof along with Mozart’s sister, Haydn’s brother, and a litany of other notables-by-connection. The monastery and church date back to the eighth century, making the complex the oldest monastery in the German-speaking world. The cool and somewhat creepy icing on the abbey’s cake are the catacombs, which you can experience in a Hunchback of Notre Dame fashion for a small fee.
Bus #3, 5, 6, 8, 20, 25, or 28 to Rathaus. From the stop, walk away from the river into the Old Town and turn left onto Getreidegasse until you come out onto the huge Residenepl. Go past the cathedral; the abbey is located up against the mountain. Catacombs €1.50, students €1. Church open daily 8am-noon and 2:30-6:30pm. Cemetery open daily 6:30am-dusk. Catacombs open May-Sept Tu-Su 10:30am-5pm; Oct-Apr W-Th 10:30am-3:30pm, F-Sa 10:30am-4pm.
NONNBERG ABBEY
ABBEY
Nonnberggasse 2
662 84 16 07
This would be the point where we start bursting into “Climb Every Mountain,” but alas, there’s only one mountain you need to climb (and sadly no streams to ford). Nestled under Festung Hohensalzburg, this abbey has hosted nuns for almost a millennium. In the olden days, the abbey was actually the site of some gender parity when an archbishop decreed the abbess of Nonnberg equal to the abbot of St. Peter’s in 1241. It has retained its quiet, royal beatitude with a darkened, romantic chapel and well-groomed graves outside.
Bus #3, 5, 6, 8, 20, 25, or 28 to Rathaus. Enter the Old Town and walk toward the Dom (with the green domes). Go toward the mountain behind it until you get to Festungsgasse. Walk left along the mountain on this street and turn right when you get to the building with the onion dome. Free. Open daily 7am-dusk.
ROYAL PALACE RESIDENCES
STATE ROOMS
Residenzpl. 1
662 80 42 26 90
In a world where IKEA holds a monopoly on our lives and our collective goal is a sofa unit with green stripes, these state rooms serve as a comforting reminder that the consumers of years past were 100 times worse than us. The Royal Palace Residences not only boast the requisite giant crystal chandeliers but are also home to the room that hosted a six-year-old Mozart sawing away on his tiny violin.
Bus #3, 5, 6, 8, 20, 25, or 28 to Rathaus. Walk away from the river into the Old Town and walk toward the Dom. You’ll come out onto Residenzpl.; the residence is on the right. €9. Open daily 10am-5pm; check website as dates vary.
MUSEUM OF NATURAL HISTORY AND TECHNOLOGY
MUSEUM
Museumspl. 5
662 84 26 530
With everything in Salzburg clocking in at hundreds upon hundreds of years old, this museum is perfect for those more excited about the Higgs boson than hellacious stories of power-driven priests. The aquarium is the highlight of the complex, with thousands of fish streaming in between carefully placed barnacles; the interactive part of the museum is worth checking out as well. The museum can’t completely escape its Salzburg location, though, and one of the coolest exhibits is the “walk-in violin.”
Bus #20, 24, or 28 to Ferdinand Hanusch Platz (Franz-Josef-Kai). Walk with traffic along Franz Josef Kai and turn left onto Museumspl. €7.50, students €5. Open daily 9am-5pm.
HELLBRUNN PALACE
PALACE, FOUNTAINS
Fürstenweg 37
662 82 03 72 0
It’s no wonder this place starts with “Hell,” as the devil surely lives in the trick fountains that dot this massive palatial complex. The Austrians are crazy about commissioning palaces for themselves, and Hellbrunn was the brainchild of Prince Archbishop in 1612 (talk about separation of church and state). The trick fountains are definitely the best part, as jets of water suddenly shoot out at random passersby to great giggles and some grimaces. The folklore museum will satisfy the less spontaneous with beautiful examples of traditional costume as well as a number of relics.
Bus #25 to Fürstenweg. There are clear signs to the entrance. Guided tour of fountains, palace, and folklore museum €9.50; students €6.50. Park free. Open daily Apr 9am-4:30pm; May-Jun 9am-5:30pm; Jul-Aug 9am-6pm; Sept 9am-5:30pm; Oct 9am-4:30pm.
AUGUSTINIAN BREWERY
BREWERY
Lindhofstraße 7
662 43 12 46
Tourists come from hundreds of miles around to taste the purest beer on earth. While we really don’t ask what’s in the beers of today, the brewery here still follows the Purity Law of 1516, which, despite what it sounds like, has nothing to do with virgins. It’s all about ingredients, and the beers here are guaranteed to contain only hops, water, malt, and yeast.
Bus #7, 8, 20, 21, 27, or 28 to Bärenwirt. Walk north on Müllner Hauptstr and turn left onto Augustinergasse. Tokens for beer €3. Open M-F 3-11pm, Sa-Su 2:30-11pm.
FOOD
East Salzburg
CAFE SHAKESPEARE
CAFE $$
Hubert-Sattler-Gasse 3
650 77 35 357
Cafe Shakespeare is a cafe and bar named after the Bard, with a healthy dose of anti-American alternative art for good measure. The outdoor terrace has a clear view of the Mirabell Palace, while the interior has comforting wood paneling that’s overlooked by a distressed bald eagle and a choice four-letter word to describe patriotism. The bar is where the youth gather to smoke and drink white beer after white beer, but the menu has some special items—the Hausgemachtes toast is a small but simple step in your pursuit of happiness.
Bus #1, 2, 3, 5, 6, 25, or 32 to Mirabellpl. (Schloß). It’s on the left side of the church. Entrees €8.50-12.40. Dessert €3.20-4.20. Open M-F 10am-1am, Sa 4pm-2am, Su 4pm-midnight.
RISTORANTE DA ALBERTO
ITALIAN $$
Franz-Josef-Straße 37
662 88 10 81
Occasionally, it’s nice when the menu is in eight different languages or tries to attempt three different cuisines, but most of the time, it ends up feeling like a bad trip to Disney World. Fortunately, Alberto is full-and-out Italian—none of those shenanigans of overly deferential cuisine to suit the capricious whims of English speakers. The restaurant is secluded in a quieter part of the New Town, and the pizza is crispy, delicious, and cheaper than what it’ll cost you to enter most museums in the city. And who’s to say that a good pizza isn’t a comparable form of art?
Bus #2 or 4 to Wolf-Diestrich-Straße. Walk in the direction the bus came in and turn right onto Franz-Josef-Straße. Pizza €8-11. Pasta €9-12. Open daily 11:30am-2:30pm and 5:30-10pm.
CAFE BAZAR
CAFE $$
Schwarzstr. 3
662 87 42 78
It’s a bit bizarre that you might be sitting in the same seat that Marlene Dietriech once lounged in. However, the only angels you’ll be seeing presently are the fantastically down-to-earth waiters and waitresses at this classiest of cafes in the New Town. The menu is the typical toast, soup, and occasional entree that so defines the Salzburg scene, but the hanging newspapers, free-standing coat hangers, and wood-and-gold decor give the guests an easier time of imagining what the cafe was like in its heyday as the center of artistic thought.
Bus #27 to Landestheater. Walk down Schwarzstr.; the cafe is on the left. Small eats €4-12. Coffee €2.70-6. Open M-Sa 7:30am-11pm, Su 9am-6pm.
West Salzburg
EISGROTTE
GELATO $
Getreidegasse 40
662 84 31 57
The name means “Ice Cave,” but the theme of this gelato joint is more ’50s diner, with neon signs and the svelte red leather seats we’ve come to associate with soda fountains. During the day, the servers dole out scoops like mad to clamoring tourists, but if you go during slower hours, after the nearby shops have closed around 6pm, you’ll have a chance to breathe and enjoy your ice cream in your own personal cave of happiness.
Bus #3, 5, 6, 8, 20, 25, or 28 to Rathaus. Walk away from the river into the Old Town and turn right onto Getreidegasse. The store is on the right. 1-scoop cone €1. Open daily 9am-midnight.
CAFE PAMINA
CAFE $$
Judengasse 17
662 84 23 38
Cafes and bakeries are like rabbits in Salzburg—they multiply like crazy and their food is super-light. Pamina is what you could call an antithetical hearty cafe, with some of the best ice cream variations around (try the eponymous, big-as-your-face Pamina with frozen yogurt, strawberry ice cream, strawberries, and whipped cream). The location on the quiet Judengasse is ideal for enjoying Salzburg without feeling rushed by tourists waiting outside.
Bus #3, 5, 6, 8, 20, 25, or 28 to Rathaus. Walk away from the river and into the Old Town. Turn left onto Getreidegasse, which becomes Judengasse. Ice cream €3-7. Open M-Sa 9am-6pm.
CARPE DIEM
RESTAURANT $$$$
Getreidegasse 50
662 84 88 00
www.carpediemfinestfingerfood.com
Carpe Diem takes its name seriously, making delicious gourmet food available for the seizing at every price range. If you live by a YOLO philosophy (carpe diem for stupid people), find a friend and order the €98 menu for two. If you’re not insane, you can order something nice like strawberries with white chocolate and basil (€13.50) or one of the many finger food options for under €10. The best part about a restaurant that goes from €10-100 is that the decor has to suit the people paying €100, so relish the classy, super-modern black leather furnishings.
Bus #3, 5, 6, 8, 20, 25, or 28 to Rathaus. Walk away from the river into the Old Town and turn right onto Getreidegasse. The restaurant is on the right. 3-course lunch menu €19.50. Desserts €11.50-13.50. A la carte €5.40-10.90. Open daily from 8:30am-midnight.
REPUBLIC
CAFE $$
Anton-Neumayr-Platz 2
662 84 34 48
Republic, conveniently, is more like its own little republic than a cafe. The sprawling, orange-themed cafe takes up most of Anton-Neumayr-Platz and publishes its own magazine, has a radio channel, bar, restaurant, and club. Packed at all hours, it’s great if you want to have large chunks of time to people-watch, as the waiters aren’t rushing to get you out of your seat despite the teeming crowds.
Bus #3, 5, 6, 8, 20, 25, or 28 to Rathaus. Walk away from the river into the Old Town and turn right onto Getreidegasse. Walk all the way down and turn right once you hit the mountain. Republic is in the plaza. Sandwiches €4-13. Meat entrees €14-19.60 Open M-Th 8am-1am, F-Sa 8am-4am, Su 8am-1am.
East Salzburg
PEPE COCKTAIL BAR
BAR
Steingasse 3
662 87 36 62
It’s nice when you find a place that doesn’t serve only 10 variations of beer to a rowdy crowd. Pepe definitely caters well to its ZARA-clad crowd as they throw back cocktail after cocktail in this remarkably chic bar. While most of the drinks are tropical-themed, with daiquiris given ample advertisement, we recommend the Schwermatrose (rum, kahlua, lime, and lemon) for a fresh beginning to a pub crawl along Steingasse.
Bus #3, 5, 6, 8, 20, 25, or 28 to Rathaus. Cross the bridge into East Salzburg and take a quick right onto Steingasse. The bar is on the left. Open Tu-Sa 7pm-3am.
MONKEYS CAFE.BAR
BAR
Imbergstr. 2A
662 87 66 52
In between two streets along the Salzach, this bar seemingly contains all of the city’s young students and tourists in its laser-lighted interior. The inside is modern without being too yuppie and caters to its international clientele by hosting Latin disco nights as well as City of the Week events on Friday evenings. During the winter, the bar also becomes a thriving cafe.
Bus #3, 5, 6, 8, 20, 25, or 28 to Rathaus. Cross the bridge over into East Salzburg and take a quick right onto Giselakai, which turns into Imbergstr. Open M-Th 11:30am-2am, F-Sa 11:30am-4am, Su 11:30am-2am.
SAITENSPRUNG
PUB, BAR
Steingasse 11
662 87 34 55
This youth-oriented club’s back wall is dug straight out of the side of Kapuzinerberg Hill. The music is the latest Top 40 hits, and the martinis are a particularly popular option for the under-25 crowd. The best part of this place, however, is just sitting in the bar feeling serene in the understated, natural decor.
Bus #3, 5, 6, 8, 20, 25, or 28 to Rathaus. Cross into East Salzburg and turn right onto Steingasse. The bar is on the left. Open daily 9pm-4am.
CHEZ ROLAND
MUSIC, BAR
Giselakai 15
662 87 43 35
Since Salzburg doesn’t have in much in the way of dive bars, it is best to remain in the realm of the classy with Chez Roland. Around since the ’70s, the archway-dominated bar has been a rotating door for luminaries of the Salzburg Festival scene. Don’t go crazy on the liquor here—instead, blend in and order anice Austrian wine for only €3 a glass.
Bus #3, 5, 6, 8, 20, 25, or 28 to Rathaus. Cross over to east Salzburg and turn right onto Giselakai. Open daily 7:30pm-late.
West Salzburg
MURPHY’S LAW IRISH PUB
IRISH, PUB
Gstättengasse 33
662 84 28 82
Murphy’s Law reminds us that “if anything can go wrong, it will.” We suppose that this Irish pub adds the corollary, “When it does indeed go wrong, drink up!” The spirit of this place is infectious, with riotous laughter and sometimes unintelligible jabber between friends filling the air. The bonhomie extends to betting pools and trips to see games that are organized to keep the patrons coming back.
Bus #1, 4, 5, 7, 8, 20, 21, 22, 24, 27, or 28 to Mönchsbergaufzug. Take a quick left onto Griesgasse until you reach the end; cross the street onto Gstättengasse. The bar is on the left. Open M-F 2pm-2am, Sa-Su 11am-2am.
ELECTRONIC MUSIC, BAR
Gstättengasse 17
650 31 17 761
What better place to lose yourself in electronic beats and dubstep drops than a bar built into the side of a mountain (even if it once was filled with monks)? Exposed cave walls put exposed brick to shame as a decor option, and the drinks are surprisingly cheap given the upscale vibe.
Bus #1, 4, 5, 7, 8, 20, 21, 22, 24, 27, or 28 to Mönchsbergaufzug. Take a quick left onto Griesgasse and continue until you reach the end; cross the street onto Gstättengasse. The bar is on the left. Open Tu 9pm-4am, W-Sa 9pm-5am.
SHAMROCK IRISH PUB
PUB, BAR
Rudolfskai 12
662 84 16 10
Shamrock gets a little bit too into the Irish campiness (the first indicator is the sign that says “Irish Food! Irish Staff! Irish Music!”). Regardless, the place is packed with Austrian and international students watching soccer and kicking back cider after beer after Guinness. The decor reminds us inextricably of the Prancing Pony of The Lord of the Rings fame, with thick, dark wooden benches and a general sense of camaraderie, until the Ringwraith called morning comes.
Bus #3, 5, 6, 8, 20, 25, or 28 to Rathaus. Walk with traffic along Rudolfskai. .5L Guinness €4.50. Open M-W noon-3am, Th-Sa noon-4am, Su noon-2am.
VIS A VIS
MUSIC, PUB
Rudolfskai 24
662 84 12 90
VisÁ Vis caters to an under-30 crowd that doesn’t feel as sporty as the football-salivating group at the nearby Irish pubs. The emphasis here is a bit on excess, as the bar pushes groups to buy bottles of Absolut with four Red Bulls to wash it down. Nothing gets too out of hand under the exposed brick archway, which has enough lights to provoke an awed comment of “double rainbow” every now and then. Each night has a different theme, but it’s worth it to go on Wednesdays when the cocktails (the bar’s specialty) are under €4 before midnight.
Bus #3, 5, 6, 8, 20, 25, or 28 to Rathaus. Walk with traffic on Rudolfskai; the bar is on the left. Open daily 8pm-4am.
ARTS AND CULTURE
LANDESTHEATER
THEATER
Schwarzstr. 22
662 87 15 120
www.salzburger-landestheater.at
The Landestheater is the premier Salzburg option for those looking for a warm glass of Deutsche Kultur. The opera performances tend to stick to Wagner and cartoon villain soundtracks, while the non-musical theater side sports an ambitious line-up of Chekhov, Frisch, Schiller, Mann, and everyone’s favorite—Kafka. While the theater’s regular season isn’t open until the fall, the theater also hosts some Salzburg Festival events.
Bus #27 to Landestheater. Ticket price varies according to performance. Check website during the season for details. Late Aug-Jun M-F 10am-1pm and 2-4pm.
MARIONETTEN THEATER
THEATER
Schwarzstr. 24
662 87 24 06
We’re not a fan of beating the dead horse that is The Sound of Music, but a scene along the lines of “The Lonely Goatherd,” with preciously floating marionettes, is what you can expect from this summer theater. The performances tend to go straight for the German classics, with The Magic Flute, Hansel and Gretel, and Die Fledermaus among the repertoire. This place also stands out from other Austrian theaters with its English subtitles. Even if you think puppets are a bit juvenile, you might revise your opinion after seeing a blow-out rendition of Don Giovanni.
Bus #27 to Landestheater. The Marionnetten Theater is just past the Landestheater on the side of the street opposite the river. €18-35, students €18. Open May-Sept 9am-1pm and 2hr. before each performance.
MOZARTEUM
MUSIC
Theatergasse 2
662 87 31 54
The students of Salzburg’s Mozarteum frequently branch out to play Mendelssohn quartets in the nearby Mirabell Gardens, but the graded performances can be viewed by the public as well. The university has a full orchestra and smaller chamber music groups that give performances throughout the year. A special schedule run during the festival month is also played by students of the summer academy. Tickets can be purchased through the Mozart Foundation.
Bus #1, 3, 4, 5, 6, 21, 22, 25, or 27. Prices vary by event. Check website before ordering tickets. Open Sept-Jun M-F 9am-5pm, Sa 9am-noon.
SALZBURG FESTIVAL
FESTIVAL
Hotstallgasse 1
662 80 450
For a brief moment, the tourist trap of Julie Andrews is forgotten in favor of an aspect of Salzburg culture that was, interestingly enough, featured in The Sound of Music: the Salzburg Festival. Operas, concerts, and other performances play continuously for days upon days upon days as a blow-out approach to the arts that will make you never want to hear Mozart again. As a bonus, the Salzburg Festival actually has some English events that will leave you feeling künstlerisch instead of künstlich (artistic, not artificial).
The festival takes place at many different venues throughout the city. Tickets vary greatly depending on performance. Check website for details. Late Jul-early Sept.
SHOPPING
RED BULL WORLD
CLOTHING
Getreidegasse 34
662 84 36 05
The flagship Red Bull store will give you wings—for a price. If you want to be the Icarus of credit cards, by all means, max out your limit on Red Bull-emblazoned paraphernalia. For those less in love with labels, the store also sells a variety of merely kick-ass effects, such as AWOLNATION CDs.
Bus #3, 5, 6, 8, 20, 25, or 28 to Rathaus. Walk away from the river into the Old Town and turn right onto Getreidegasse. The store is on the left. Shirt €35. CDs around €15. Open M-F 9:30am-6pm, Sa 9:30am-5pm.
HÖLLRIGL
BOOKS
Sigmund-Haffnergasse 10
662 84 11 460
Unlike Salzburg’s oldest cathedral and fortress, there are reasons other than fire and acid rain that there aren’t any millennia-old bookstores in town. Mainly, no one back then was literate. Höllrigl, however, is the oldest bookstore you’ll find in Austria (founded in 1519) and operates on an indie-style set-up, with recommendations by staff members, dim lighting, and not much room between the shelves. Needless to say, you can lose hours in here.
Bus #3, 5, 6, 8, 20, 25, or 28 to Rathaus. Walk away from the river into the Old Town, turn left when you hit Getreidegasse and Judengasse, then take a quick right onto Sigmund-Haffnergasse. Paperbacks from €9. Open M-F 9am-6:30pm, Sa 9am-6pm.
Practicalities
• SALZBURG TOURIST OFFICE: Mozartpl. 5 (662 88 98 73 30 www.salzburg.info Open daily June-Aug 9am-7pm; Sept-May 9am-6pm.) Other tourist offices located at the airport (Innsbrucker Buddesstr. 95) and the train station (Südtiroler Platz. 1).
• INTERNET: Salzburg has recently begun a free Wi-Fi program in the city, with coverage around the Salzach river from 5am-midnight. Coverage includes Mozartpl., Volksgarten, Mirabell Palace, and Max-Reinhardt-Platz.
• GLBT: Austria is considered a conservative country. While same-sex partnerships have been recently legalized, the country’s strong Catholicism has stood in the way of complete equality. HOSI (Homosexual Initiative) provides a list of GLBT-friendly establishments in Salzburg. (Gabelsbergerstr. 26 662 43 59 27 www.hosi.or.at/english Open M-W 10am-5pm, F 10am-5pm.)
Emergency
• AMBULANCE: 112
• FIRE DEPARTMENT: 144
• POLICE: 133
• DENTIST ON CALL: 662 87 34 66
• DOCTOR ON CALL: 662 87 13 27
Getting There
By Plane
To fly into Salzburg, travelers will pass through the W.A. Mozart International Airport (Innsbrucker Bundesstr. 95 662 85 80 79 11). Many places fly directly from other European cities to Salzburg, but those who are traveling overseas might find it easier to fly into Flughafen München in southern Germany and take the airport shuttle to Ostbahnhof, then a DB or ÖBB train to Salzburg Hauptbahnhof (€24). To get to the city center from the Salzburg airport, take bus #2 ( Every 10-20min., M-F 5:30am-10:30pm, Sa 6am-11pm, Su 6:30am-11pm) to the Hauptbahnhof train station, from which you can take a number of buses to various locations in the city.
By Train
The Salzburg Hauptbahnhof receives a large number of international trains, including trains to and from Zürich (€51 6hr.), Munich (€25 2hr.), Budapest (€44 5½hr.), and Frankfurt (€107 5hr.) as well as trains to and from Vienna (€50 3hr.) and Innsbruck (€41 2hr.). There is reduced coverage on Sundays, so check the ÖBB website at www.oebb.at, where you can reserve your tickets ahead of time. If traveling within Austria, simply buy a ticket at the offices in each major train station.
Getting Around
By Foot
The best way to see most of the Old Town is by walking, as even bicycles have a hard time navigating these pedestrian-crowded streets.
By Bike
If you’re planning to spend an extended period of time in Salzburg, renting or buying a bike will probably be your best bet. Because the public transportation system relies on buses, traffic can build up around the Old Town. For shorter stays, TopBike provides bike rentals. (Staatsbrücke, Franz-Josef-Kai www.topbike.at €7 per hour, €20 per day. Open daily Apr-June 10am-5pm, July-Aug 9am-7pm, Sept-Oct 10am-5pm.)
If you want to soak in all of Austria’s rich culture without doing the touristy, “5-days-and-we’re-out” (or the Before Sunrise-y “1-magical-night-and-we’re-out”), you’ve come to the right place. The following study, volunteer, and work opportunities are as carefully curated as any exhibit that you’d find in the Museumsquartier.
STUDYING
• EMORY IN VIENNA: Emory’s summer program in Vienna focuses on German language as well as music and cultural history. (http://german.emory.edu/home/abroad/vienna/index.html)
• MACALESTER GERMAN STUDY ABROAD PROGRAM: A semester-long program split between Berlin’s Goethe Institute (two months) and the University of Vienna (four months). Participants must have studied German for at least four semesters. (www.macalester.edu/academics/german/studyabroad)
• UNIVERSITY OF WASHINGTON: This study abroad program takes place during the spring semester in Vienna and involves language classes, visits to famous sites and museums, and a seminar on contemporary Austrian culture and society. (http://germanics.washington.edu/study-abroad/spring-vienna)
• UNIVERSITY OF INNSBRUCK: The University of Innsbruck is located in the Alps and is a strong research institution. (www.uibk.ac.at/index.html.en)
• IES: IES offers two semester-long Vienna programs, one focused on musicand the other on European society and culture. (www.iesabroad.org)
• KRAMETERHOF: This research station and educational farm on the slopes of Mt. Schwarzenberg is where Sepp Holzer developed the branch of permaculture known as Holzer Permaculture. There are courses and tours offered here throughout the year. (www.krameterhof.at)
VOLUNTEERING
• GOABROAD: New projects are listed here all the time. (www.goabroad.com)
• GEOVISIONS: Conservation Corps Austria is GeoVisions’ one- to three-month program where you live with a host family and work as a private language tutor for 15 hours per week in exchange for room and board. (www.geovisions.org)
• VOLUNTEERS FOR PEACE: Volunteer opportunities are updated all the time and include things like homestays, environmental studies, archaeology, or native cultural studies. The program fee includes room and board. (www.vfp.org)
• ZILLERTAL ALPS HIGH MOUNTAIN NATURE PARK: The park currently offers two volunteer opportunities, one on the Protected Forest Project and the other on the Protecting Mountain Meadows Project. (www.zillertal.at)
• THE BELVEDERE: A world-class art museum, the Belvedere is always looking for volunteers to help out. (www.belvedere.at/en/freunde-support/members/volunteering)
• PLATFORM FOR INTERNATIONAL COOPERATION ON UNDOCUMENTED MIGRANTS (PICUM): PICUM is an NGO that “aims to promote respect for the human rights of undocumented migrants within Europe.” It also provides the contact information of many organizations in Austria that are working toward the same goal, such as Diakonie (counseling services) or Aids Hilfe Wien (testing and treatment for HIV-positive patients). Check out these organizations for places to potentially volunteer. (http://picum.org/en/resources/contacts-of-organisations/links-to-organisations-austria)
WORKING
• VIRTUAL VIENNA: A site aimed at expats that provides job and internship information and postings. (http://virtualvienna.net)
• AU PAIR AUSTRIA: An au pair agency based in Vienna and an International Au Pair Association member, this agency provides free placements, an emergency hotline, au pair excursions, and contacts for other au pairs in Austria. (www.aupairaustria.at/english.aspx)
• BERLITZ: With the slogan “A Global Education Company,” a job teaching English with Berlitz in Vienna is one way to ensure you have some spending money. (www.berlitz.com/Careers/33)
• CEF LANGUAGE INSTITUTE: A sprachschulen (language school) with locations all over Austria, this is another option to try if you’re going down the English-teaching route in your job search. (www.cef.at)
• WWOOF AUSTRIA: Join WWOOF Austria to get access to more than 200 farm listings. Choose an organic farm that you want to work on in exchange for room and board. (www.wwoof.at/en)
• SKI RESORTS: During Austria’s winter, consider being a ski bum at one of the myriad resorts scattered throughout the country. There are jobs as hotel employees, drivers, lift operators, babysitters, etc.
If you consider yourself the outdoorsy sort, then a car might come in handy to explore the surrounding Bavarian Alps and other mountaineering options. The downside is that many rental companies have a 3-day minimum rental period; nevertheless try AutoEurope if you’re interested. (12 Gniglerstrasse 1 866 16 51 From €150 for 3 days.)
By Bus
Bus fares cost €2.10 per trip, €5 for a 24hr. pass, and €13.10 for a week-long pass. If you purchase the Salzburg Card, you have access to all public transportation (including the funicular to the top of Festungs Hohensalzburg and the Mönchsberg Elevator) for free. (Mozartpl. 5 3662 88 98 70 www.salzburg.info Includes admission to all sights in Vienna and use of public transportation network. 24hr. card €25, under 15 €12.50; 48hr. €34/17; 72hr. card €40/20.)
MONEY
Tipping and Bargaining
Service staff is paid by the hour, but a service charge is not usually included in an item’s unit price. Cheap customers typically just round up to the nearest whole euro, but it’s customary and polite to tip 10-15% if you are satisfied with the service. If the service was poor, you don’t have to tip at all. To tip, tell the waiter the total of the bill with the tip included. Do not leave the tip on the table; hand it directly to the server. It is standard to tip a taxi driver at least €1, housekeepers €1-2 per day, and public toilet attendants around €0.50.
Taxes
Most goods in Austria are subject to a value added tax (VAT) of 20% (a reduced tax of 10% is applied to accommodations, certain foods, and some passenger transportation). Non-EU visitors who are taking these goods home unused may be refunded this tax for purchases totaling over €75 per store. When making purchases, request a VAT form and present it at a Tax Free Shopping Office, found at most airports, road borders, and ferry stations, or by mail. Refunds must be claimed within six months.
SAFETY AND HEALTH
Local Laws and Police
Certain regulations might seem harsh and unusual (e.g. jaywalking is a €5 fine), but abide by all local laws while in Austria; your embassy will not necessarily get you off the hook. Always be sure to carry a valid passport, as police have the right to ask for identification.
Drugs and Alcohol
The drinking age in Austria is 16 for beer and wine and 18 for spirits. The maximum blood alcohol content level for drivers is 0.05%. Avoid public drunkenness; it can jeopardize your safety and earn the disdain of locals. While possession of marijuana or hashish is illegal, possession of small quantities for personal consumption is decriminalized in Austria. Each region has interpreted “small quantities” differently (anywhere from 5 to 30g). Carrying drugs across an international border—considered to be drug trafficking—is a serious offense that could land you in prison.
