Throughout the Czech Republic, the vestiges of Bohemian glory and communist rule can be found on the same block. More recently, the ’90s sparked the transformation of this country into an alternative, electrifying country. Döner kebabs, bockwurst, and Czech cheeses are peddled side by side. Freewheeling youth and a relentless drive toward the modern mean endless streets of hip hangouts and vehemently chill attitudes, making Czech cities, especially Prague, some of the best student destinations in Europe. And even though the locals might be too cool for school they do appreciate a tenacity to learn, evident from all the Czechs who cheer your blatantly wrong attempts at their language. Whether they’re dishing heapings of local cuisine onto your plate, sharing beers with you at a low-key Prague pub, or inviting you to a local party, the citizens will open their arms to you.
greatest hits
• ART NOUVEAU’S POSTER BOY. Get the full picture of the artist at the Alfons Mucha Museum, which features original posters as well as other designs.
• VITUS IS VITAL. A trip to the Czech capital would not be complete without a visit to Prague Castle, in particular St. Vitus Cathedral.
• DRINK DRINK. In case you had doubts, they named it twice: Bar Bar is one of the best spots in the city for nighttime drinks and international cuisine. Yum yum.
student life
Prague’s university is Univerzita Karlova v Praze (Charles University), founded in 1348. Its campus is spread across the city, but you’re bound to run into students if you frequent the right bars, such as Bunkr Paruká
ka or Matrix. If you’re looking to find the study-abroad crowd, Roxy is a good club option and is always packed with foreign youth. And if you’re just dying to be in an indie film, snoop around FAMU: Filmová a televizní fakulta Akademie múzických um
ní v Praze, a film school located in Nové M
sto that is known to bring all the alternative boys to its yard.
At the end of the day, Prague is a city of magic. Prague isn’t sterile the way most Western European capitals are, but it’s not a post-communist wreck either—it’s caught in the middle, somewhere in between daily reality and the realm of legends. And we don’t just mean “legend” legends, like the one about the Golem of Prague. We mean the legends of people—these cobblestone streets were once walked upon by Franz Kafka, after all. There’s also the legend of Charles IV, the ambitious Czech king who dreamed up Prague the way it looks today (aside from the fast food restaurants, those came later). And then there’s the far more recent specter of communism, which left the entire country in a hangover that still hasn’t ended. Speaking of hangovers, we haven’t even told you about the beer which is cheaper than water, about the cafés which teem with easy-going locals, and about the art, which creeps around in all forms, from the subtlest of jazz melodies to the heaviest of modern sculptures. There will be moments in between, when all you see are other tourists breathing at your neck, Western shops turning the city into just another European capital, and the Czechs either not speaking English or speaking it in an offensive way, but it’s the moments of magic for which you came here. For these, the entire trip is worth it.
Nové Msto
The New Town is dominated by two enormous squares. Wenceslas Square (Václavské námstí), a former horse market, is now occupied by Western-style shops, sausage hawkers, and the equestrian statue of St. Wenceslas, while Charles Square (Karlovo námstí), a former cattle market, is today covered by a somewhat-unkempt park. Národní tída is a major street that separates the Old Town from the New; here you’ll find the impressive National Theater. Fast-food joints litter I.P. Pavlova, a square on the border of Nové Msto and Vinohrady.
Staré Msto
Old Town Square (Staromstské námstí) is the heart of Staré Msto. Some of Prague’s most famous landmarks—the Astronomical Clock and Church of Our Lady before Týn—are located here. To the west is the iconic Charles Bridge, while the streets to the east lead to Municipal House and 
Námstí Míru. To the north is Josefov, a small historic Jewish neighborhood completely enveloped by the river, and Staré Msto. Finally, streets to the south (Melantrichova, Jilská) connect Old Town Square with Wenceslas Square and Národní Tída, which mark the beginning of Nové Msto. Trams and the metro don’t go directly through Staré Msto but rather skirt its edges; walking is the preferred mode of transportation.
Josefov
Josefov is a historically Jewish district of Prague whose main attractions are five synagogues and the Old Jewish Cemetery. It may seem surprising that such a district survives in post-WWII Europe—in fact, during the Nazi occupation, Hitler demarcated the area as a future museum of the soon-to-be extinct Jewish people. Aside from the surviving synagogues, most of the buildings in the area were demolished in the late 19th century and replaced with Art Nouveau architecture. The area is also famous for its connection to the writer Franz Kafka, who was born nearby, and whose name is now plastered on every other souvenir sold here. The synagogues here are certainly worth a visit, but the neighborhood is also one of the biggest tourist traps in Prague, with over-priced restaurants (think mussels and lobster), high-end fashion boutiques, and souvenir peddlers.
Malá Strana
Malá Strana, literally “Lesser Town,” got the name because of its placement below the castle, but we see nothing “lesser” about it. Squeezed between Prague Castle and the Vltava and stretching up Pet
ín Hill, Malá Strana is the stomping ground for more established, better-known artists. To the north, Malá Strana merges smoothly into Hradčany, while to the south you’ll find the neighborhood of Smíchov, best known for its large shopping mall and the Smíchov train station. Malostranské námstí is Malá Strana’s main square and Újezd is its main street, snaking from north to south along Petín Park. Malá Strana’s only metro stop is Malostranská (on the A line), but it can also be conquered on foot or by tram (12, 20, 22).
Hradčany
A visit to Hradčany is a must—the neighborhood is home to the Prague Castle, which contains such well-known sights as Saint Vitus Cathedral and the Golden Lane. Outside of the castle, don’t miss Strahov Monastery’s collection of natural oddities (the remains of a dodo bird, a narwhal tusk, etc.) and Loreta, one of the most important pilgrimage destinations in the Czech Republic. Most of the surrounding establishments are unabashed tourist traps, but this doesn’t detract from Hradčany’s real charms—sloping cobblestone streets and some of the best panoramic views of Prague. Located just north of Malá Strana and west of Letenské sady, Hradčany is also a good place to start your hike up to Petín Tower, or your dive down the hill toward Malá Strana’s more affordable establishments. To get to Hradčany, take metro A to Malostranská and then walk up the hill, or take tram 22, which drops you off right above the castle.
In Žižkov there’s no street that doesn’t slope, no wall safe from graffiti, and no block without a pub or a bar. At the northern border of Žižkov there’s Vítkov Hill and the statue of Jan Žižka, the one-eyed Hussite general for whom the neighborhood is named. To the south Žižkov borders Riegrovy sady and Vinohrady, while to the east it includes two big cemeteries, including New Jewish Cemetery, where Franz Kafka is buried. Trams 5, 9, 11, and 26 are the best way of getting to and from Žižkov, as the nearest metro station, Jíiho z Podbrad, is in neighboring Vinohrady.
Vinohrady
The western border of Vinohrady is roughly denoted by I.P. Pavlova. The neighborhood then stretches east along Vinohradská, all the way to Želivského. Námstí Míru is located just a few blocks away from I.P. Pavlova, while Jiího z Podbrad is close to Žižkov. Riegrovy sady and Žižkov border Vinohrady to the north and Havlíčkovy sady is to the south. Vyšehrad is a separate district, just one metro stop southwest of I.P. Pavlova. Walking in Vinohrady is an option, but if you want to save time, you can take advantage of the frequent tram service.
Holešovice
Holešovice used to be an industrial suburb, but today, thanks to steady gentrification, it’s turning into one of Prague’s most exciting neighborhoods. Situated north of Staré Msto at a bend in the Vltava, Holešovice is split in two by railroad tracks. It’s not as pedestrian-friendly a neighborhood as many others in Prague, so we recommend trams 1, 3, 5, 12, 14, 17, and 25 to get around. The two closest metro stations are on the C line: Vltavská and Nádraží Holešovice.
SIGHTS
If you visit Prague during the summer months, you will be viewing the historical sites around Prague Castle and Old Town Sq. with thousands of other people. You’ll miss the crowds and save a lot of money if you do your Old Town sightseeing at night.
Nové Msto
ALFONS MUCHA MUSEUM
MUSEUM
Panská 7
224 216 415
Alfons Mucha rose to fame overnight when he designed a poster on short notice for the French actress Sarah Bernhardt. The Art Nouveau artist was and still is a national hero, so it is no wonder that you can now find copies of his posters of gorgeous semi-nude women anywhere. Sure, the famous Parisian posters (with Ms. Bernhardt) are here, but be sure to pay equal attention to the Czech posters, photos of Paul Gauguin playing the artist’s piano and of models dressed up as Greek Orthodox monks, and Mucha’s sketchbooks, along with his window design for the St. Vitus Cathedral.
A or B: M
stek. Walk up Václavské námstí in the direction of the St. Wenceslas statue. Turn left onto Jindišská and left again onto Panská. The museum is on the left. 180Kč, students 120Kč. 
Open daily 10am-6pm.
WENCESLAS SQUARE (VÁCLAVSKÉ NÁM
STÍ)
SQUARE
Once a horse market, Václavské námstí now sells everything on the two sides of the beautiful green hedges and wide pedestrian walkways. American-style department stores and historic hotels compete for attention, with vendors peddling up to six different types of sausage. The square is dominated by the National Museum, which began a five-year renovation in 2011. Some of the exhibits have been moved to the modern building next door (Vinohradská 1, www.nm.cz 100Kč, students 70Kč). Don’t miss the statue of St. Wenceslas, where the proclamation of Czechoslovakia’s independence was read in 1918. Artist David Černý’s hilarious parody of this statue can be found inside the Lucerna complex on Vodičková and involves an upside-down hanging horse.
A or B: M
stek, or A or C: Muzeum. Free.
Prague has accommodations to suit every budget. In general, Staré Msto costs more and offers less, while Nové Msto costs less and offers more. There are several great hostels in Holešovice, Vinohrady, and Malá Strana, but these may require a metro or a tram ride to visit sights. There’s also a network of student dorms that function as hostels during the summer (www.czechcampus.com) that tend to be cheaper than most hostels.
MOSAIC HOUSE
HOTEL, HOSTEL $$
Odbor 4
221 595 350
Although there are four-star hotel rooms available, most people seem to be young and ready to party. Mosaic House also has an epic 26-bed female dorm, which, despite what you’d think, is quite fun and comfortable. Plus, it uses renewable energy sources and a water recycling system.
B: Karlovo námstí. Head north along the western edge of the square. Take a left onto Odbor at the northwest corner. Free Wi-Fi. Computer use 50Kč per hr. Breakfast 150Kč. Key deposit 50Kč. Towels included for hotel guests, with dorms 30Kč. Lockers included. Women’s dorm available. Dorms 300-625Kč; doubles 1440Kč. Reception 24hr.
SIR TOBY’S HOSTEL
HOSTEL $$
Dlnická 24
246 032 610
From rooms with outlandish names (Opa’s Girlfriend, Paprika Palace) to events like beer and crepe tastings, Sir Toby’s does everything with a dose of personality. Before heading out, grab one of the custom maps of the area or ask one of the receptionists about the old family photos on the wall to hear some hilarious, sketchy, and probably made-up stories.
C: Vltavská. Take tram 1, 3, 5, or 25 or walk along the tram tracks for 3 stops to Dlnická. Turn left onto Dlnická; the hostel is on the left. Free Wi-Fi and computer use. Breakfast 100Kč. Dinner 90-110Kč. Lockers included. Towels 15Kč with a 200Kč deposit; included with private rooms. Laundry 100Kč. Dorms 150-600Kč; doubles 900-1000Kč. 5% discount for ISIC holders who reserve online. Reception 24hr.
HOSTEL ONE PRAGUE
HOSTEL $$
Cimburkova 8
222 221 423
Žižkov’s vibe and Prague’s famous monuments are equally represented in the graffiti-esque paintings that decorate Hostel One. The private doubles feel like apartments, and the 10-room dorms have their own bathrooms. The staff organizes free trips to some of Prague’s best nightlife spots.
Trams 5, 9, or 26: Lipanská. Walk uphill on Seifertova, past the big church, then turn right onto Cimburkova. The hostel is on the right. Free Wi-Fi. Computers available for use. Linens included. Laundry 200Kč. Towels 20Kč. Dorms 290-690Kč; private rooms 590-790Kč per person. Reception open 7:30am-12:30am. Garden closes at 10pm.
LANDMARK
Rašínovo nábeží 80
The Dancing House supposedly shows a woman and a man dancing together, which is why it was originally dubbed “Fred and Ginger” after the famous dancing duo. Some complain that the masterpiece does not fit with the beautiful Baroque and Art Nouveau buildings nearby; others say that American architects such as Frank Gehry should not invade the well-preserved architecture of central European cities. However, we think that the modern building (a collaboration between Gehry and Vlado Milunić) is a new gem in the old city. Its symbolic location—on a lot leveled after the Bombing of Prague—and deconstructivist architecture remind visitors of the horrors of the past century, while the charming playfulness of the angles and materials symbolize the hopeful future.
B: Karlovo námstí. From the metro, walk down Resslova toward the river. The building is on the left. Coffee 45-70Kč. Beer 40-90Kč.
SAINT HENRY TOWER (JIND
IŠSKÁ VŽ)
BELFRY
Jindišská ulice
224 232 429
Dating back to 1455, this tower was ingeniously converted so that most of its floors serve different roles. From the bottom up: whiskey bar (1-2 fl.), gallery (3 fl.), Prague Tower museum (4 fl.), toilets (5 fl.), museum (6 fl.), restaurant (7-9 fl.), and observation deck (10 fl.). As you can probably guess from the fact that the bathrooms take up an entire level, the floors are rather small. However, the price of the ticket allows you to see everything inside, so take the elevator to the top and then work your way down. The view from the top may be “average” compared to others in the city, but even an average view of Prague is breathtaking.
A or B: Mstek. From the metro, walk up Václavské námstí in the direction of the St. Wenceslas statue. Turn left onto Jindišská and continue to the end of the street. 90Kč, students 60Kč. Cash only. Open daily Apr-Sept 10am-7pm; Oct-Mar 10am-6pm.
NEW TOWN HALL (NOVOMSTSKÁ RADNICE)
TOWNHALL
Karlovo námstí 1/23
224 948 225
Luckily, strong wires protect the lovely view of Charles Square from the observation deck of New Town Hall. Why luckily? Well, it was here that the First Defenestration of Prague took place in 1419, when a mob of Hussites stormed the town hall and tossed some 15 councilors and other dignitaries out the window. Later on, the building functioned as a prison, and executions took place in the town hall’s courtyard as recently as the Nazi occupation. Other than its interesting history, the tower is a lot like the many other tall structures in the city: it has a bunch (221) of steps, small exhibits, and often plays host to weddings.
B: Karlovo námstí. From the metro, look for the giant tower on the northern end of the square. 500Kč, students 30Kč. Cash only. Open Apr-Oct Tu-Su 10am-6pm.
Staré Msto
CHARLES BRIDGE
BRIDGE
Charles the IV commissioned the most famous of the 17 bridges crossing the Vltava River in Prague and laid down the first stone on July 9, 1357. Weather gods have been less kind to the 30 statues added between 1600 and 1800, and the city removed and replaced original statues of characters such as the Czech martyr St. John of Nepomuk and Algerian St. Augustine. If you want to escape the hordes of tourists, admire the sight from the banks of the river around sunset or climb up the stairs of the Old Town Bridge Tower for a gorgeous view of Old Town, Lesser Town, and the other bridges of Prague.
A: Staromstská. Facing the river, turn left onto Kížovnická. Continue straight; the bridge is on the right. Tower 75Kč, students 55Kč. Open daily Nov-Dec 10am-8pm; Apr-Oct 10am-10pm; Dec-Mar 10am-6pm.
ASTRONOMICAL CLOCK TOWER AND OLD TOWN HALL (STAROMSTSKÁ RADNICE)
BELFRY
Staromstské námstí
724 911 556
At the ripe age of just over 600-years-old, this mysterious machine is divided into three parts that contain much more info than your smartphone’s clock app. On the hour, the top of the clock always puts on a little show: 12 apostles poke their heads out, a rooster crows, and the crowd of tourists below goes bananas. The human hand, sun, moon, and little star dials of the astronomical clock below reveal Babylonian, Old Bohemian, German, and Sidereal time and Zodiac information. The clock can also tell you whether it is dawn, day, dusk, or night (in case you need a clock for that) and the position of the moon. The calendar dial, divided into 365 parts, tells you the day and symbolic representations for each month. For a breathtaking view of the city and a very cozy bonding experience with dozens of other tourists thanks to the modern elevator planted in the medieval building, head to the top of the tower.
A: Staromstská. Walk on Kaprova away from the river, turn left onto Malé Námstí, and turn left after the street ends. Exhibition hall 100Kč, students 80Kč. Tower 100/80Kč. Hall open M 11am-6pm, Tu-Su 9am-6pm. Last tour 5pm. Tower open M 11am-10pm, Tu-Su 9am-10pm.
CHURCH OF OUR LADY BEFORE TÝN (MATKY BOŽÍ PED TÝNEM)
CHURCH
Staromstské námstí
The two enormous Gothic spires of Our Lady before Týn dominate the skyline of the otherwise Baroque buildings of Old Town Square. It houses Prague’s oldest organ but, more importantly, contains the remains of the astronomer Tycho Brahe, who revolutionized astronomy and allegedly peed himself to death. As the story goes, in 1601 Brahe was at Emperor Rudolf’s for dinner and, in the name of decorum, refused to leave the dinner table to relieve himself, to the point that his poor bladder burst. On your way out, see if the sign on the door still eloquently reads “Draw up to oneself,” instead of a good ol’ “Pull.”
A: Staromstská. Walk on Kaprova away from the river, turn left onto Malé Námstí, and turn left after the street ends. The church is across Old Town Square. Free. Open Tu-Sa 10am-1pm and 3-5pm, Su 10am-noon.
MUNICIPAL HOUSE (OBECNÍ D
M)
CONCERT HALL
Namstí Republiky 5
222 002 101
The Municipal House was built in 1912, when a wave of nationalism swept over the Czech people. It is therefore no wonder that the beautiful concert and meeting hall proudly uses symbols of Czech history in its large and small details: the marbles are red and white (the national colors), the intricate floor and door handle details emphasize the talents of the Czech people, and the Smetana Hall (home of the Czech Philharmonic Orchestra) is named after one of the most important Czech composers. It was here that Czechoslovakia declared independence in 1918 and here that the Communist Party held the first meetings with Václav Havel and other leaders of the Civic Form in 1989.
B: Námstí Republiky. From Old Town Square, walk east on Celetná all the way to Námstí Republiky; the Municipal House is on the left. Tours in Czech and English. Tickets must be purchased on the day of your visit at the ticket office, located in the Municipal House. Guided tours 290Kč, students 240Kč, families 500Kč. Open daily 10am-7pm. Tour times vary by week and month; check the online calendar for details.
SAINT JAMES CATHEDRAL (KOSTOL SVATÉHO JAKUBA VTŠÍHO)
CHURCH
Malá Štupartská 6
We would warn all superstitious travelers to stay away from this cathedral of gory legends if it weren’t for the monumental Baroque interior with red- and cream- colored marble pilasters and a stunning organ with 8277 pipes. One of the legends is that a thief tried to steal the necklace off a Virgin Mary statue that came to life, grabbed the thief’s arm, and refused to let it go. He had to cut off his arm 127 Hours-style, and, to this day, a mummified arm hangs near the entrance of the church.
From Old Town Square, head down Týnska (with Our Lady before Týn on the left) and continue straight through the courtyards as it turns into Týn. The courtyard lets out at Malá Štupartská, where you should take a left. Free. Open M-Th 9:30am-noon, F 2-4pm, Sa 9:30am-noon and 2-3:30pm, Su 2-4pm.
Josefov
A joint ticket grants admission to all synagogues (aside from Staronová Synagoga) and the Old Jewish Cemetery, while another joint ticket includes the Staronová Synagogue. ( Audio tours inside Pinkas Synagogue for 250Kč, students 200Kč. Joint ticket 300Kč, students 200Kč. All sights 480Kč, students 320Kč. Open in summer M-F 9am-6pm, Su 9am-6pm; in winter M-F 9am-4:30pm, Su 9am-4:30pm. Closed on Jewish holidays.) There are at least five ticket offices, so if a particular line seems to be advancing at a glacial pace, skip to the next one.
PINKAS SYNAGOGUE (PINKASOVA SYNAGOGA)
SYNAGOGUE
Široká 23/3
222 317 191
A trip to this nearly 500-year-old synagogue is most powerful when you come early in the morning and are one of the only ones to walk through the bare walls covered with the names, birth dates, and death dates of almost 80,000 Czech Jews who were murdered during the Holocaust. The upper floor contains a small but incredibly heartbreaking exhibit of drawings and collages by children during their time in Terezín.
A: Staromstská. Walk toward the river 1 block, then turn right onto Valentinská. The synagogue is at the end of the street.
OLD JEWISH CEMETERY (STARÝ ŽIDOVSKÝ HBITOV)
CEMETERY
U starého hbitova 243/3a
222 749 211
This cemetery may remind one of a shark’s mouth—the eroded and broken tombstones jut out at unexpected angles, one over another, since the graves were dug in layers. Over time, since the earliest grave was laid around 1439, the earth settled so that stones from the lower layers were pushed to the surface. Make sure to notice the little stones on the tombstones—traditionally, these are used instead of flowers, adding to the beautiful, gray-and-green simplicity of the cemetery. There are also many prominent gravestones, including those of Rabbi Low, the supposed creator of the mythical Golem, and David Gans, a Renaissance scholar, historian, mathematician, and astronomer.
Enter through Pinkas Synagogue. Camera permit 50Kč.
OLD-NEW SYNAGOGUE (STARONOVÁ SYNAGOGA)
SYNAGOGUE
Maiselova
222 318 664
The Old-New Synagogue is the oldest synagogue in all of Europe and the oldest working synagogue outside Israel. There are a few legends attached to the place. First, the remains of Golem are said to be hidden in the synagogue’s attic. Second, the synagogue is supposedly protected from fire by angels (this would account for its longevity). Inside, there’s also a replica of the flag flown by the congregation in 1496, when Ladislaus Jagiellon first allowed the Jews to fly their own city flag. The Old-New Synagogue is still the center of Prague’s Jewish community. Just south of the Old-New synagogue is the Jewish Town Hall, which is not accessible to the public but whose clock tower has a timekeeper that ticks counterclockwise (just in case you needed to see one of those before you die).
A: Staromstská. Walk away from the river on Kaprova, then turn left onto Maiselova. Continue after the Maisel Synagogue. The synagogue is on the right. Men must cover their heads (yarmulkes free). Services reserved for practicing members of the Jewish community. 200Kč, students 140Kč. Free guides in several languages.
PETÍN TOWER (PETÍNSKÁ ROZHLEDNA)
TOWER
Petín Hill
If the Petín lookout tower seems like a shameless knockoff of the Eiffel Tower, that’s because it is. The Eiffel Tower debuted at the 1889 World’s Fair, and this shorter, fatter cousin popped up two years later at the Czech Jubilee Exposition. It’s at the top of Petín Hill, and from the lookout 299 steps up, you can see a 360-degree panorama of the brick rooftops of Prague and the Czech countryside. If you’re lazy and have money, you can pay extra to take the elevator (55Kč), but the clever double-staircase means that climbers don’t have to awkwardly go around the tired tourists descending the tower. If you go on a clear day, you can even see Snezka, the highest mountain in the Czech Republic (about 150km away). The hilltop around the tower also has a number of worthwhile sights, including the mirror labyrinth (built for the 1891 Jubilee Exposition) and the Memorial to the Victims of Communism, a haunting and conceptually fascinating monument near the Újezd tram station.
Walk up Petín hill or take the funicular from Újezd (all public transportation tickets valid, 24Kč for 30min. ticket). After getting off the funicular, turn right and continue along the wall until you see the tower. There’s also a path that leads here from Strahov Monastery. 105Kč, students 55Kč, family 260Kč. Elevator 55Kč. Mirror labyrinth 70Kč, students 50Kč. Cash only. Open daily 10am-10pm. Mirror labyrinth open daily 10am-10pm.
CHURCH OF SAINT NICHOLAS
CHURCH
Malostranské námstí 1
257 534 215
If you’ve spent any time in Europe, you’ve likely seen a church or two (or 50) by now. But this ain’t no ordinary house of the Lord. Boldly colored celestial scenes play out on an enormous fresco that spans the length of the towering ceiling. Floating above it all, like the magical cherry on this holy sundae, sits the behemoth dome. Built by a team of three generations (father, son, and son-in-law) over 100 years in the 17th century, St. Nicholas is considered to be the most beautiful example of High Baroque architecture in Central Europe and was influential in defining the style throughout the continent. Don’t forget to climb upstairs and see the 19th-century graffiti on the wooden handrail.
A: Malostranská. Follow Letenská to Malostranské námstí or take tram 12, 20, or 22 for 1 stop. 70Kč, students 50Kč. Free entry for prayer daily 8:30-9am. Cash only. Open daily Apr-Oct 9am-4:45pm; Nov-Mar 9am-3:45pm. Tours every day. Holy Mass Su 8:30am.
JOHN LENNON WALL
MURAL
Velkopevorské námstí
The John Lennon Wall is the property of the Knights of Malta, who have given up whitewashing the graffiti in this quiet, relaxing area. Western songs were banned during the Communist years, so when someone painted John Lennon’s face on this wall after the iconic singer was shot in 1980, it was an act of defiance against the regime. Since then, the wall has been an ever-changing communal work of art—graffiti is layered over more graffiti, almost all of which celebrates peace, freedom, and other things Mr. Lennon stood for. The original drawing is long gone, but there will always be at least one Lennon face for you to pose with. Better yet, draw your own while you listen to “Imagine.”
From the Charles Bridge, take a left onto Láze
ská soon after the bridge ends. Stay on it as it curves around into Velkopevorské námstí. Free. Open 24hr.
FRANZ KAFKA MUSEUM
MUSEUM
Cihelná 2b
257 535 507
You’ll probably notice David Černý’s sculpture of pissing statues first, so we’ll start our description of the Franz Kafka Museum with them. Recognize the shape of the pool that the two guys are standing in? It’s the Czech Republic. Once you walk past the statues and into the museum, you’ll just become more confused. In an attempt to be as disorienting as Kafka’s writing, this museum goes crazy with shadowy video projections, the sound of dripping water, and dramatic lighting. The actual exhibit is a bit less dramatic; it’s mostly facsimiles of Kafka’s written documents and some old photographs.
A: Malostranská. Go down Klárov along the river, veering left at the fork between U Lužické Semináe and Cihelná. The museum is on the left. 180Kč, students 120Kč, family 490Kč. Open daily 10am-6pm.
MUSEUM KAMPA
MUSEUM
U Sovových mlýn 2
257 286 147
The cost of admission may be a bit high, but modern art enthusiasts should not miss this riverside museum. The collection focuses on sculptures and paintings by Central European artists, most of whom were persecuted under Communism. At the end, climb the stairs to the observation deck, which has a great view over the Vltava (and feels as though it’s about to keel over into it).
A: Malostranská. From the metro, walk south along the river to Kampa Island. The museum is on the east side of the island at the edge of the river. Look for a giant chair or 3 enormous babies. 280Kč, students 140Kč. Open daily 10am-6pm.
Hradčany
The following sights are only a small sampling of what the castle complex has to offer. Saint George’s Basilica dates back to 920 CE and is also part of a short tour of the area. Next door, Saint George’s Convent now functions as a museum of 19th-century Bohemian art and sculpture. The Powder Tower houses a small exhibit on the castle guards. Admission to the latter two comes with the long tour ticket.
PRAGUE CASTLE (PRAŽSKÝ HRAD)
CASTLE
224 372 423
The “Prague Castle” refers to the entire, almost 70,000 sq. m complex of many different buildings, streets, and gardens surrounded by tall walls and steep stairs. The Castle should be almost as crucial to your trip to Prague as the buildings have been to the city’s history (read: very important). The Prague Castle has been the seat of the Bohemian government since its construction over a millennium ago. It was home to such legendary kings as Charles IV and Rudolph II as well as the first Czechoslovak president, Tomáš Garrigue Masaryk. During World War II, Reinhard Heydrich, the Nazi-appointed protector of the city and notorious “Butcher of Prague,” used the castle as his headquarters. It is said that whoever unlawfully wore the crown jewels would die within a year—Heydrich supposedly wore the jewels and, as predicted, was assassinated less than a year later. The Castle may be packed with tourists, but it’s definitely worth the extra time to wander around and explore. Arrive on the hour to catch the changing of the guard—the ceremony at noon also includes fanfare. Bonus points: without breaking the law, try to make one of the guards on duty move. We weren’t able to do it, but there must be a way.
Tram 22: Pražský hrad. From the stop, go down U Prašného Mostu, past the Royal Gardens, and into the Second Courtyard. Alternatively, hike up Nerudova. Ticket office and info center located opposite St. Vitus Cathedral, inside the castle walls. Short tour covers admission to everything important; long tour includes everything important and other—rather uninteresting—sights. These are not guided tours, just combined tickets to different buildings. Tickets are valid for 2 consecutive days. Short tour 250Kč, students 125Kč. Long tour 350/175Kč. Photo permit for interiors 50Kč. Ticket office and historical monuments open daily Apr-Oct 9am-5pm; Nov-Mar 9am-4pm. Castle grounds open daily Apr-Oct 5am-midnight; Nov-Mar 6am-11pm.
ST. VITUS CATHEDRAL (KATEDRÁLA SV. VÍTA)
CHURCH
St. Vitus is the protector of actors, dancers, and comedians and is said to shield you against lightning storms as well as oversleeping (the latter is probably more useful). However, the young Christian—he was only about 15 when he died—managed not only to become a saint but had this gorgeous Gothic cathedral named after him. The cathedral is an architectural masterpiece, complete with three magnificent towers and more flying buttresses than it knows what to do with (no wonder it took almost 600 years to complete). Don’t miss the beautiful window above the entrance and the Wenceslas Chapel (Svatováclavská kaple), which has walls lined with precious stones and paintings. Despite their old look, the window mosaics were all made in the 1940s, and some even contain sponsorship messages (including those for an insurance company). Some of the most important Czech kings are buried here, including Charles IV (plus his four wives), Jií z Podbrad, and Wenceslas IV. The silver tomb next to the altar belongs to St. John Nepomuk, who supposedly had his tongue torn out and was then thrown off the Charles Bridge because he refused to tell Wenceslas IV what the king’s wife had confessed. The Bohemian crown jewels are kept in a room with seven locks, the keys to which are kept in the hands of seven different Czech leaders, both secular and religious. There’s also a reliquary (not accessible to the public) that contains the skulls of various saints and some brain matter of John Nepomuk. For a great view, climb the 287 steps of the Great South Tower.
The Cathedral is the enormous church on the eastern part of the castle complex. Some parts of the Cathedral are accessible without a ticket, but the rest is included in the short and long tour tickets. “Treasure of St. Vitus Cathedral” exhibition 300Kč, students 150Kč.
GOLDEN LANE AND DALIBOR TOWER
STREET, TOWER
The authorities’ decision to make the formerly free Golden Lane accessible only with a paid ticket caused an uproar among Czech citizens a few years ago. This legendary street lined with hobbit-size houses once belonged to the castle’s artillerymen and artisans. Some of the houses are furnished as they would have looked hundreds of years ago; the tiny home of the herbalist is full of dried-up plants, while the house of the seamstress is one of the biggest. Franz Kafka spent a year living in the blue house (#22); today, it’s a disappointing gift shop full of copies of “A Country Doctor,” the novel that Kafka wrote in the itsy-bitsy dwelling. At the end of the street, you’ll come to the base of Dalibor Tower, a former prison whose most famous resident was the knight Dalibor. Dalibor is the subject of the imprecise Czech adage “Necessity taught Dalibor how to play the fiddle”—indeed, the only “fiddle” that Dalibor encountered in the prison was the torture instrument designed to get prisoners to confess by stretching them like horsehair on a fiddle bow. The tower exhibits a variety of torture and execution implements, including “Spanish boots” (designed to crush legs and feet) and an executioner’s axe. The most jarring, however, is the “body cage” hanging in the middle of the small basement room. We’re not sure that placing a skull in the head part was necessary; it looks uncomfortable enough without it.
To the right of the basilica, follow Jiská halfway down and take a left onto Zlatá ulička, or “Golden Lane.”
Žižkov
JEWISH CEMETERY
CEMETERY
Fibichova Street
Known as the First Jewish Cemetery of Olsany, this quiet cemetery is the resting place of more than 40,000 members of the Jewish community of Prague, many the victims of plague epidemics. Even though the tombstones of many notable rabbis and Jewish scholars can be found here, the cemetery was not cared for throughout most of the last few decades, especially during the construction of the neighboring TV Tower, and many gravestones are now damaged. Today, the cemetery continues to be a perplexingly beautiful ground of wild ivy and grass climbing over the closely packed tombstones covered in Hebrew scripts. As the site is not well known, you will most likely be one of few visitors. Walk through the small paths and reflect on the strange proximity of the ugly Žižkov TV Tower.
A: Jiího z Podbrad. Walk toward the TV Tower on Milešovská, then take a left onto Ondíčkova, then an almost immediate right onto Fibichova. The cemetery is on the right, after the TV Tower. 60Kč. Open M 11am-3pm, W 11am-3pm, F 9am-1pm.
ŽIŽKOV TELEVISION TOWER
TOWER
Mahlerovy sady 1
724 251 286
Although from a distance the Žižkov TV Tower looks like a Soviet launch missile that never left Earth, it is no more comprehensible from far away than it is from its base. Unlike most of Prague’s other towers, this 216m (709ft.) giant is not decorated with gargoyles, cherubs, or saints, but rather enormous crawling babies. These nine babies are the brainchildren of controversial Czech artist David Černý, who permanently attached them to the tower in 2001 (perhaps as a reference to the earlier paranoia that the radio transmissions would hurt infants around the area). This wasn’t the only worry of the Czechs, though; many suspected that the tower was actually built to jam signals from Western TV and radio programs. Even though the three observation decks provide a magnificent 360-degree view of the entire city (from fun hanging chairs in one observation deck), the tower seems less concerned with tourists than hosting business conferences. So if you are eager to take the elevator to the top (sorry, no stairs), check the schedule before visiting unless you want to be redirected to the restaurant.
A: Jiího z Podbrad. Walk toward the TV Tower on Milešovská, then take a left onto Ondíčkova, then take an immediate right onto Fibichova. You won’t miss it. 150Kč, students and seniors 100Kč, families 350Kč. Observation deck open daily 8am-midnight.
Vinohrady
Aside from Vyšehrad, Vinohrady is also home to some of Prague’s nicer parks and greenery. Riegrovysady is a hilly park north of Námstí Míru, with grassy slopes from which you can see the castle and much of Prague. Do as the young locals do: buy a plastic cup of beer from one of the nearby beer gardens, sit on the grass, and take in the view. The vine-covered Havlíčkovy sady, to the southeast of Námstí Míru, is a posher setting; visit its wine bar, Viniční Altán, where you can sample many varieties of wine (www.vinicni-altan.cz Wine from 30Kč. Open daily 11am-11pm).
VYŠEHRAD
MONUMENT
V Pevnosti 5B
210 320 081
Overlooking the hills of Prague next to the beautiful Vltava, Vyšehrad served as the royal residence of the Czech kings until 1140, when they moved to Hradčany. Though not much remains from the castle once founded by Princess Libuše (who supposedly foresaw the greatness of Prague before it became, well, great), the park is raised by the tall walls of Vyšehrad’s fortifications and delivers one of the best views of the city. The complex also contains a number of interesting sites. There’s the towering neo-Gothic Church of St. Peter and St. Paul, whose interior looks like a colorful codex and reflects the many times that the basilica has been rebuilt over the last 1000 years. Next to the church is the Vyšehrad cemetery, where some of the most prominent Czech artists (including painter Alphonse Mucha, composer Antonin Dvorak, and writer Karel Čapek) are buried. There’s also a snoozefest of an archeological exhibition in the Gothic Cellar, while the Vyšehrad Gallery exhibits work by Czech painters. If you’re interested in seeing six of the statues that were originally part of the Charles Bridge, you can go on a short guided tour of casemates and Gorlice. Finally, make sure you check out the view of the city from Vyšehrad’s fortifications—it’s one of the best in Prague.
C: Vyšehrad. From the metro, head toward “Kongresové Centrum” and walk across this conference complex, keeping right. At the end, turn right and head down a staircase, then turn left and cross a parking lot. To the right there is a cobblestone road that leads to Vyšehrad. Guided tours of the casemate leave on the hour 10am-5pm. Park admission free. English map and guide 35Kč, cemetery guide 50Kč. Church of St. Peter and St. Paul 30Kč. Casemate 50Kč. Vyšehrad Gallery 20Kč. Gothic Cellar 50Kč. Cash only. Exhibitions open daily Nov-Mar 9:30am-5pm; Apr-Oct 9:30am-6pm. St. Peter and St. Paul open M-W 10am-6pm, Tu-Th 10am-5:30pm, F-Sa 10am-6pm, Su 10:30am-6pm.
Holešovice
DOX
CONTEMPORARY ART
Pouptova 1
295 568 123
DOX is at the cutting edge of Prague’s contemporary art scene; this should be obvious from the turquoise and orange paintings that adorn the modern building of the gallery that was transformed from an old wagon factory. We can’t predict what show will be up when you visit, but the large floors and varying rooms of DOX can hold up to eight exhibitions, a cool arts library, and a design and book shop. Past programs include David Černy’s controversial “Entropa” as well as an extensive exhibition called “Disabled by Normality,” which questioned the meaning of the words “normal” and “disabled.”
C: Nádraží Holešovice. Take tram 5 or 12 or walk along the tram tracks to Ortenovo námstí. From here, continue along the tracks on Komunard and take the 1st right onto Pouptova. DOX is on the right. 180Kč; students 90Kč; art history, art, design, or architecture students 40Kč. Open M 10am-6pm, W-F 11am-7pm, Sa-Su 10am-6pm.
LETENSKÉ SADY
PARK
The gigantic metronome is the tourist highlight of this sprawling, wooded park above the banks of the Vltava. The metronome, which continues to be Prague’s heartbeat, was installed in 1991 on the spot where a statue of Joseph Stalin (the world’s largest statue at the time) once stood. He sure had a view he didn’t deserve. The gorgeous panorama supplemented with graffiti is now popular among skateboarding teenagers, friends and couples sharinga drink, and appreciative tourists. Toward the east side of the park, you can find the sometimes-functioning oldest carousel in Europe. There are also a few cheap beer gardens where you can enjoy a cold one while looking over Prague’s rooftops. Finally, there’s the famous Hanavský Pavilon, an expensive restaurant in a beautiful Art Nouveau château that was constructed for the Jubilee Exhibition in 1891.
B: Hradčanská. From the station, walk to the other side of the building and head southeast. You’ll run into the enormous park. Or take metro C to Vltavská and head west.
VELETRŽNÍ PALÁC / NÁRODNÍ GALERIE (NATIONAL GALLERY)
MUSEUM
Dukelských hrdin 47
224 810 758
Veletržní Palác is Prague’s MoMA. There are five enormous floors with U-shaped galleries packed with Czech and international modern art. The building’s exterior stands out both in terms of its modern look and size, but it is only when walking around inside that you’ll realize how immense this gallery is. Although the permanent international collection is more than impressive, with entire rooms of Picassos and Gauguins and many interesting pieces by Klimt, Miró, and Lichtenstein, Veletržní Palác is most interesting thanks to its Czech art. The hallways full of Czech sculptures, designs, and architecture are very unique and definitely worth a visit. And if for nothing else, you must go to the museum for Mucha’s “Slav Epic,” 20 enormous scenes from the history of the Slavic people.
C: Nádraží Holešovice. From the station take tram 12, 14, or 17 or walk along the tram tracks (passing the Exhibition Ground) for 2 stops to Veletržní. The museum is at the tram stop. 240Kč, students 120Kč. Audio tour 30Kč. Open Tu-Su 10am-6pm.
FOOD
Nové Msto
POTREFENÁ HUSA
CZECH $$
Resslova 1
224 918 691
Potrefená Husa was launched by Prague’s Staropramen brewery in order to “improve the beer culture in Czech Republic” (which is kind of like somebody aiming to improve the cocaine culture in Colombia). Nevertheless, the three rooms of the underground restaurant have nifty details such as brick walls full of beer bottles, flip-through menus, and TVs hanging from the ceiling. The food, from cabbage soup to barbecued ribs, is well above average, and the restaurant’s own brewer has a badass name (Mr. Jaroslav Svoboda). You could go for any brew you want, but we have to recommend Staropramen, especially the delicious lager, Staropramen Granát, that the restaurant serves in 0.4L cups for the same price as 0.3L of other beers. Locals and tourists alike visit Potrefená Husa for a delicious, filling, and out-of-the-ordinary meal.
B: Karlovo námstí. From the station, head down Resslova, toward the river. The restaurant is on the right. Entrees 145-285Kč. Desserts 25-109Kč. Beer 27-37Kč. Open M-W 11am-midnight, Th-Sa 11am-1am, Su 11am-11pm.
LIBESKÉ LAHDKY
BAKERY $
Vodičkova 9
733 766 054
This is not a restaurant. You won’t have to go through the trouble of getting a table, guessing what will taste good based on a couple of words, or even being nice to your waiter. Instead, the entire establishment is one U-shaped counter overflowing with small sandwiches, cakes, cold salads, baguettes, meats, and, of course, liters of alcohol in the background. The open-faced sandwiches (chlebičky) are artistic creations that come packed with eggs, ham, salami, and more. The bite-sized “mini desserts” (only 9Kč) are all enticing, and if you suck at making decisions about food, you can order 10 and have a feast in the nearby Karlovo námstí for the price of one small cake somewhere else. There’s no seating, so don’t plan to stay for hours, but definitely check out this place before you skip town.
B: Karlovo námstí. From the metro, head north past the New Town Hall, staying right on Vodičkova when it forks. The restaurant is on the left. Baguettes 35-45Kč. Cakes 12-36Kč. Sandwiches from 17Kč. Cash only. Open M-F 7am-7pm, Sa-Su 8am-6pm.
RESTAURACE V CÍPU
CZECH $$
V Cípu
607 177 107
Even though it’s right in the center of the city, this little restaurant remains a secret to most foreigners. With wooden benches that often need to be shared between locals and some rustic signs and posters on the pale walls, V Cípu feels unpretentious and inviting. Locals come here for cheap Czech classics and for the bitter, strong, and golden brown Zlatopramen tank beer, which you can’t get from the tap anywhere else in the country. Try the delicious and cheap soups, excellent fried cheese, or the duck.
A or B: Mstek. From the metro, walk northeast on Na Píkop and take the 1st right onto Panská. Take the 1st right onto V Cípu, opposite the Alfons Mucha Museum. Pub food 35-60Kč. Meat entrees 118-153Kč. Lunch menu 73-94Kč. Beer 19-33Kč. Open daily 11am-midnight.
AMERICAN $$
Pštrossova 6
224 934 203
Part bookstore, part cafe, part cultural center, Globe is one of the best-known American outposts in Prague. Even though the American expat community has dwindled considerably in recent years and the clientele is starting to lean toward locals, Globe still offers some cultural comfort. There are up to 10,000 English-language books in the entrance room, in front of the main cafe room with enormous red walls full of colorful Botero-esque paintings. There is a full American brunch on the weekends, refillable drip coffee, and a menu of burgers, sandwiches, and other Western food every day. During happy hour (M-F 5-7pm), cocktails are super cheap, and cultural events, mostly in English (free film screenings, author readings, live music), take place almost every night.
B: Karlovo námstí. From the metro, take Resslova toward the river and turn right onto Na Zderaze, which becomes Pštrossova; the cafe is on the right. Sandwiches and burgers 140-180Kč. Desserts 65-80Kč. Beer 20-40Kč. Internet access 60Kč per hr. Open M-Th 9:30am-midnight, F-Su 9:30am-1am (or later). Kitchen open until 11pm. Bookstore open daily 9:30am-11pm.
PIZZERIA KMOTRA
PIZZA $$
V Jircháích 12
224 934 100
Kmotra (“the godmother”) is known for its quality pizza and low prices. Supposedly the oldest pizza house in Prague, Kmotra sports a cozy downstairs cellar, with multiple rooms filled with warm hanging lamps, wooden tables, flat screen TVs, and plenty of local families and friends. There are more than 30 kinds of pizza here, all of which come with thin crusts and generous toppings, but the other options, such as the tomato soup, are almost equally satisfying. If you’re after slightly less traditional toppings, try Špenátová II, which is topped with spinach, bacon, and a sizzling egg.
B: Národní tída. From the metro, head down Ostrovní toward the river. Take the 2nd left onto Voršilská. Starters 40-99Kč. Pizzas 115-165Kč. Pasta 99-150Kč. Open daily 11am-midnight.
CAFÉ SLAVIA
CAFE $$
Smetanovo nábeží 2
224 218 493
Perhaps the best-known cafe in all of Prague, Slavia was historically the haunt of artists, intellectuals, and dissidents, including Renaissance man Václav Havel. Today, it’s a large and bustling tourist attraction on a busy corner across from the beautiful National Theater and the Vltava, which means you can people watch the passing citizens comfortably from your bourgeois coffee perch. Slavia sends customers back in time with nightly piano music, a restored 1930s Art Deco interior with black and white photos, and waiters in bow ties. The food, although expensive, is great.
B: Národní tída. From the metro, walk north on Spálená and then turn left onto Národní. The restaurant is at the end of the street, across from the National Theater. Czech dishes 139-198Kč. Desserts 45-109Kč. Coffee 39-85Kč. Open M-F 8am-midnight, Sa-Su 9am-midnight.
MAMACOFFEE
COFFEE $
Vodičkova 6
773 337 309
Mamacoffee’s name isn’t the only adorable aspect of this coffee place. The two levels of the cafe are decorated with pretty cursive letters on blackboards, the espresso comes in cute blue and white porcelain, and there are entire bottles of melted cane sugar to flavor your iced coffee. The organic, fair trade beans come from all corners of the world, and the entire brewing process (from three spoonfuls of coffee beans to steaming cup) takes place before your eyes. Have your cup to go, or even better, enjoy it while working or reading on the upper level.
B: Karlovo námstí. From the metro, head north past the New Town Hall. Stay to the right on Vodičkova when it forks; the cafe is on the right. 2nd location in Vinohrady. Coffee 35-67Kč. Open M-F 8am-10pm, Sa-Su 10am-10pm.
THAI $$
Myslíkova 14
224 919 056
The tall, yellowish interior of Lemon Leaf provides a fitting backdrop for the delicious Thai food you’ll find here. It’s cheap, too, especially on weekdays during lunchtime (11am-3pm) and happy hour (3:30-6pm, 20% discount on all meals). You won’t have much time to admire the enormous sunset-like photos of Asian fields or the masks hanging on the walls, as your attention will be diverted by the delicious rolls and butter that arrive at your table right away. The drinks (such as the refreshing cucumber lemonade) come in large cups and are perfect partners for the big bowls of pasta. On a beautiful day, you can also join the many locals sitting outside.
B: Karlovo námstí. From the square, take Resslova toward the river and then take a right onto Na Zderaze. Continue to the intersection of Na Zderaze and Myslíkova. Curries 159-189Kč. Entrees 139-199Kč. Lunch menu 89-149Kč. Open M-Th 11am-11pm, F 11am-midnight, Sa noon-midnight, Su noon-11pm.
ANGELATO
ICE CREAM $
Rytíská 27
224 235 123
Word on the street is that this is the best ice cream place in all of Prague. We’re inclined to agree—the taste is smooth, creamy, and downright surprising. The Mozart ice cream may be the best idea that mankind ever had since the Mozartkugel itself. Intrigued? Then don’t take our word for it; go find out for yourself. Ice cream heaven is only 30Kč away.
A or B: Mstek. From the metro, walk up Na Mstku toward the Old Town. The shop is on the left. 1 scoop 30Kč; 2 scoops 55Kč. Cash only. Open daily 11am-10pm.
Staré Msto
HAVELSKÁ KORUNA
CZECH $
Havelská 21
224 239 310
Havelská Koruna may be a bit intimidating at first when the employee at the entrance places a piece of paper in your hand and points you toward a stack of trays that might remind you of your college dining hall days. But this self-service restaurant is as authentic as anything you may find in Staré Msto. This is a place full of real food for real people, and you’ll find it pleasantly packed with locals and tourists who chow down amid the standing and seating options sprinkled around characteristically Central European wooden columns. You can’t go wrong when you order bread for only 3Kč with a delicious soup before you move on to traditional Czech dishes such as Moravian sparrow or roast beef on mushrooms. If you’re in the market for an enormous dessert, try one of their sweet meals, such as mini-cakes with vanilla cream, a favorite of adults and kids alike.
A or B: Mstek. From the station, head north on Na Mstku and continue as it turns onto Melantrichova. Take a right onto Havelská. The restaurant is on the left. Sides 13-26Kč. Soups 22-44Kč. Entrees 55-85Kč. Beer 20-36 Kč. Cash only. Open daily 10am-8pm.
GRAND CAFÉ ORIENT
CAFE $$
Ovocný trh 19
224 224 240
Don’t be ashamed if you feel a little tipsy from the Bacardi rum and Kahlua in your Coffee Grand Orient while gazing at the green and gold details of what is supposedly the world’s only Cubist cafe, located on the second floor of the Black Madonna House. Imagine that there are Czech Cubists very critically admiring the nearby buildings from the small balcony that is now packed with tourists enjoying delicious cheesecakes. If the small sandwiches, salads, and plethora of pancake options are not persuading enough, just stop by to check out the incredibly cool coat hangers near the entrance (beauty, after all, is in the details).
B: Námstí Republiky. From Old Town Square, walk toward Church of Our Lady before Týn. Keep the church on your right and continue down Celetná. The cafe is at the fork of Celetná and Ovocný trh, on the 2nd fl. Crepes 105-150Kč. Desserts 30-150Kč. Coffee 45-85Kč. Cash only. Open M-F 9am-10pm, Sa-Su 10am-10pm.
BEAS VEGETARIAN DHABA
INDIAN, VEGETARIAN $
Týnská
608 035 727
This small but colorful vegetarian buffet, tucked away in a little courtyard, is about as good a deal as you can get in Old Town. This is evident from lonely locals who come here to enjoy the savory smell of Indian food and large plates of the daily special. You’ll also find free jugs of water on every table under the large, vibrant paintings and photographs that adorn the walls. The selection changes daily, but you can always count on basmati rice, two kinds of daal, samosas, healthy juices, teas, and lassi, an Indian yogurt-based drink.
B: Námstí Republiky. From Old Town Square, walk toward Church of Our Lady before Týn, pass it on the left, and continue down Týnska. After you pass the church, keep left on Týnska—don’t go straight. Turn left into a small courtyard; Beas Vegetarian Dhaba is to the left of Hostel Týn. Self-service food 20Kč per 100g. Lassi 24-26Kč. Coffee 35Kč. Other locations at Vlastislavova 24 (Národní Tída), Sokolovská 93 (Kížikova), Blehradská 90 (I.P. Pavlova) Open M-F 11am-8pm, Sa noon-8pm, Su noon-6pm.
LOKÁL
CZECH $$
Dlouhá 33
222 316 265
Let this place be your introduction to a uniquely Czech way of treating beer—the “tank system.” The beer skips pasteurization and is instead stored in giant tanks (not kegs), where it remains cut off from oxygen. The beer’s first meeting with air is when it is poured; your first meeting with thebeer is when it is delivered to your table, where you can refresh yourself in the relaxed yet elegant arched hallway that is as long as a street block. The menu, which changes daily, includes traditional Czech dishes that promise meals full of fresh ingredients and top-quality smoked meats made in the restaurant’s own butcher shop. Lokál is packed with locals, so it’s a good idea to make a reservation.
B: Námstí Republiky. Walk toward the river on Revoluční and turn left onto Dlouhá. Lokál is on the right. Starters 65-105Kč. Soups 39Kč. Sides 35-45Kč. Entrees 99-159Kč. Desserts 35-59Kč. Beer 31-42Kč. Open M-F 11am-1am, Sa noon-1am, Su noon-10pm. Kitchen open M-F 11am-9:45pm, Sa noon-9:45pm, Su noon-8:45pm.
LEHKÁ HLAVA
VEGETARIAN $$
Boršov 2
222 220 665
Even alpha-wolf carnivores should consider this intriguing restaurant, whose name means “Clear Mind.” If you’ve been having any muddled thoughts about the virtues of vegetarian cuisine, the information about the sources of plant-based protein at the back of the menu might help to clear things up. Three Czech designers transformed the interior of a more than 500-year-old building by creating cozy salons for private parties, along with larger rooms for bigger gatherings. Unlike many vegetarian restaurants, this one seeks to make the world a better place through big plates of great food. The Kimchi probiotic salad promises you will look and feel better while the egg-free cheesecake makes vegan couples with matching tattoos and elegant ladies equally happy.
A: Staromstská. Walk south on Smetanovo nábeží, turn slightly left onto Karoliny Svtlé. Turn left onto Boršov (a tiny street). Reservations recommended. Starters 80-105Kč. Salads 105-145Kč. Entrees 130-210Kč. Desserts 70-80Kč. Open M-F 11:30am-11:30pm, Sa-Su noon-11:30pm. Lunch menu until 3:30pm. Between 3:30-5pm, only drinks, cold appetizers, and desserts served. Brunch served 1st Su of the month 10:30am-2pm.
