PALAIS DES THÉS PALAIS DES THÉS
MARAIS
64 rue Vieille du Temple
01 43 56 90 90
Le Palais des Thés lives up to its name with a grand, handpicked selection of teas. Tea experts travel to 20 countries in Asia, Africa, and South America to find the highest quality supplies. By personally traveling to each tea estate, the owners are able to ensure fair trade and labor practices and keep an eye on local environmental issues, so you can steep your organic jasmine tea with a clean conscience. Teas can be as inexpensive as €3-4 or as pricey as €100 for 100g. Describe your preferences and tastes to the welcoming staff, and they will point you in the direction of the tea that best fits your needs (and your pocketbook).
St-Paul. Walk up rue Malher as it turns into rue Payenne. Turn left onto rue des Francs Bourgeois, then turn right onto rue Vieille du Temple. 4 other locations around the city. Most tea €3.50-17 per 100g. 
Open M-Sa 10am-8pm.
CAILLES DE LUXE
BASTILLE
15 rue Keller
09 53 02 65 22
When the owners of this glam little shop decided they were fed up with quality jewelry costing a fortune, they decided to go into the business themselves. Bright colors and simple geometric shapes mark the staples of this shop and make for fantastic statement pieces. Go a notch or two above with some of the more unusual items, like necklaces with Scrabble ornaments or fun Ghostbusters earrings. This is definitely a place for the ladies, so guys might want to find a nice place to sit for a while.
Voltaire. Walk southwest on rue de la Roquette and turn left onto rue Keller; the store is about halfway down on the left. Earrings from €9. Rings from €5. Open Tu-Sa 11am-8pm.
LE MARCHÉ AUX FLEURS
ÎLE DE LA CITÉ AND ÎLE ST-LOUIS
pl. Louis-Lépine
The flower market at the center of Île de la Cité brings a welcome scene of green and freshness to the city streets. Go traditional and buy your sweetheart a dozen roses or a wild orchid. Or go rogue and opt for a birdhouse, seeds for an herb garden, or a rare tree from Madagascar.
Cité. Flowers from €5. Open M 10am-6:30pm, W-Su 10am-6:30pm.
ESSENTIALS
Practicalities
• TOURIST OFFICES: Bureau Central d’Accueil provides maps and tour information and books accommodations. (25 rue des Pyramides 01 49 52 42 63 www.parisinfo.com Pyramides. Open daily May-Oct 9am-7pm; Nov-Apr 10am-7pm.) Also located at Gare de Lyon (01 43 33 24 Open M-Sa 8am-6pm); Gare du Nord (01 45 26 94 82 Open daily 8am-6pm); Gare de L’est ( Open M-Sa 8am-7pm); Anvers facing 72 bd Rochechouart ( Open daily 10am-6pm). Tourist kiosks at ChampsÉlysées-Clemenceau, Cité in front of Notre Dame, Hôtel de Ville inside the Hôtel de Ville, Anvers, and Bastille. All offices and kiosks have tourist maps; Métro, bus, and RER maps; and walking guides to Paris produced by the Paris Convention and Visitors Bureau. Most hotels and hostels also offer these resources for free.
• TOURS: Bateaux-Mouches offers boat tours along the Seine. (Port de la Conférence, Pont de l’Alma 01 42 25 96 10 www.bateaux-mouches.fr Alma-Marceau or Franklin Roosevelt. Tours in English €12.50, under 12 €5.50, under 4 free. Cruise about 70min. Apr-Sept M-F every 20-30min. 10:15am-10:30pm; Oct-Mar M-F every 11am-9pm, Sa-Su 10:15am-9pm every 45-60min.)
• GLBT RESOURCES: Paris Gay Village. (61-63 rue Beaubourg 01 77 15 89 42 www.parisgayvillage.com Rambuteau. English spoken. Open M 6-8pm, Tu-Th 3:30-8pm, F 1-8pm, Sa 1-7pm.) Recommends GLBT accommodations, listings, and networking. SKOPIK map can be found at most tourist offices. Map of GLBT friendly establishments throughout Paris. Centre Gay et Lesbien (63 rue Beaubourg 01 43 57 21 47 www.centrelgbtparis.org Rambuteau. English spoken. Provides legal assistance, networking. Open M 6-8pm, Tu 3-8pm, W 12:30-8pm, Th 3-8pm, F-Sa 12:30-8pm, Su 4-7pm.
• STUDENT RESOURCES: Centre d’Information et de Documentation pour la Jeunesse provides information on temporary work, job placement, tourism info, and housing for students studying in Paris. (101 quai Branly 01 44 49 12 00 www.cidj.com Bir-Hakeim. Open Tu-F 1-6pm, Sa 1-5pm.)
• TICKET AGENCIES: FNAC. (74 av. des Champs-Élysées 08 25 02 00 20 www.fnacspectacles.com Franklin D. Roosevelt. Châtelet/Les Halles. Various other FNAC stores throughout Paris; check the website for more locations. Open M-Sa 10am-11:45pm, Su noon-11:45pm.)
• INTERNET: American Library in Paris has computers and internet access for members or guests with day passes. (10 rue du Général Camou 01 53 59 12 60 www.americanlibraryinparis.org École Militaire. Open Tu-Sa 10am-7pm, Su 1-7pm; Jul-Aug Tu-F 1-7pm, Sa 10am-4pm.) There is also free Wi-Fi at Centre Pompidou and in its Bibliothèque Publique d’Information. (pl. Georges Pompidou, rue Beaubourg 8 Rambuteau or Hôtel de Ville. Center open M 11am-9pm, W-Su 11am-9pm. Library open M noon-10pm, W-F noon-10pm, Sa-Su 11am-10pm.) There is also always free Wi-Fi at McDonald’s, Starbucks, and shaky Wi-Fi in public parks.
• POST OFFICES: La Poste runs the French postal system (www.laposte.fr). There are many post offices in Paris that are generally open M-F 8am-7pm and Sa 8am-noon. The most centrally located post offices are in Saint-Germain (118 bd St-Germain Odéon. Open M-F 8am-8pm, Sa 9am-5pm) and Châtelet-Les Halles. (1 rue Pierre Lescot Les-Halles. Open M-F 8am-6:30pm, Sa 9am-1pm.) The Paris Louvre post office is also easily accessible. (52 rue du Louvre Louvre-Rivoli. Open 7:30am-6pm.)
Emergency
• POLICE: 17. Préfecture de la Police. (9 bd Palais 01 53 71 53 71 Cité. Across the street from the Palais de Justice. Open 24hr.)
• CRISIS LINE: SOS Help! is an emergency hotline for English speakers. (01 46 21 46 46)
• DOCTORS: 36 24, Dentist: 01 43 37 51 00. ( Available daily 3-11pm.) Ambulance (SAMU): 15. Fire: 18.
• LATE-NIGHT PHARMACIES: Pharmacie Les Champs. (84 av. des Champs-Élysées 01 45 62 02 41 Franklin Roosevelt. Open daily 24hr.) Grande Pharmacie Daumesnil. (6 pl. Félix Eboué 01 43 43 19 03 Daumesnil. Open daily 8:30am-10pm.) Pharmacie européenne. (6 pl. de Clichy 01 48 74 65 18 Pl. de Clichy. Open daily 24hr.) Pharmacie Première. (24 bd de Sébastopol 01 48 87 62 30 Chatelet. Open daily 8am-midnight.)
• HOSPITALS/MEDICAL SERVICES: American Hospital of Paris. (Pedestrian entrance at 63 bd Victor Hugo, vehicle entrance at 84 bd de la Saussaye. 01 46 41 25 25 www.americanhospital.org Port Maillot, then bus 82 to last stop Hôpital Américain. Or Ponte de Neuilly, then bus #93 to Hôpital Américan. Or Pont de Levallois-Bécon, walk down rue Anatole France, turn right onto rue Baudin, walk 4 blocks, continue down rue Greffulhe and rue de Villiers, turn right onto bd du Château, walk 1 block, and turn right onto bd Victor Hugo; Hospital is on the left.) Hôpital Bichat. (46 rue Henri Huchard 01 40 25 80 80 Porte de St-Ouen.)
How you arrive in Paris will be dictated by where you are traveling from. Those flying across the Atlantic will most likely end up at Paris-Charles de Gaulle, one of Europe’s main international hubs. If flying from within Europe on a budget airline, you’ll probably fly into Orly. Though it hardly counts as arriving in Paris, flying into Beauvais from other European cities will often save you a lot of money even with the €16, 75min. shuttle ride into the Porte Maillot station in Paris. RER lines, buses, and shuttles run regularly from all three airports to Paris; however, time and price vary with each airport. With its confusingly endless number of train stations, Paris offers options for both those coming from within France and those who are traveling by train from elsewhere in Europe.
BY PLANE
PARIS-CHARLES DE GAULLE (CDG)
Roissy-en-France, 23km northeast of Paris
from landline in Paris3950
from abroad 01 70 36 39 50
Most transatlantic flights land at Aéroport Paris-CDG. The two cheapest and fastest ways to get into the city from Paris-CDG are by RER and by bus. The RER train services Terminals 1, 2, and 3. The RER B (€9.50, includes Métro transport when you get off the RER) will take you to central Paris. To transfer to the Métro, get off at Gare du Nord, Châtelet-Les Halles, or St-Michel. The Roissybus (01 49 25 61 87 €10 45-60min., every 15-20min. during day; 20-30min. at night. Departures from Opéra 5:45am-11pm, from CDG 6am-11pm.) departs from Terminals 1,2 and 3 and arrives at Opéra. Les Cars Air France (08 92 35 08 20) departs from Terminals 1, 2, and 3 and connects to Étoile and Porte Maillot (Line 2) or Gare de Lyon and Gare Montparnasse (Line 4).
ORLY (ORY)
Orly, 18km south of Paris
01 49 75 15 15
Aéroport d’Orly is used by charters and many continental flights. From Orly Sud Gate G or Gate I, platform 1, or Orly Ouest level G, Gate F, take the Orly-Rail shuttle bus to the Pont de Rungis/Aéroport d’Orly train station, where you can board the RER C for a number of destinations in Paris, including Châtelet, St-Michel, Invalides, and Gare d’Austerlitz (RER C). Another option is the RATP Orlybus (08 36 68 77 14 €7.20 30min., every 15-20min.), which runs between Métro and RER stop Denfert-Rochereau and Orly’s south and west terminal. RATP also runs Orlyval (01 69 93 53 00 VAL ticket €8.40, VAL-RER ticket €11.30), a combination Métro, RER, and VAL rail shuttle. The VAL shuttle goes from Antony (RER B) to Orly Ouest and Sud. Buy tickets at any RATP booth in the city or from the Orlyval agencies at Orly Ouest, Orly Sud, and Antony. See www.aeroportsdeparis.fr for maps of transportation between Orly and different locations in Paris. Les Cars Air France (08 92 35 08 20) connects from Orly Sud and Ouest terminals to Gare Montparnasse, Invalides, and Étoile (Line 1).
BY TRAIN
SNCF (www.sncf.com) sells train tickets for travel within France and abroad and offers la Carte 12-27, which guarantees reduced prices of up to 60% after you pay a one-time €50 fee. Rail Europe (www.raileurope.com) also sells tickets for travel within France and abroad, but prices for US residents tend to be higher than those offered by SNCF. There are several major train stations in Paris: Gare d’Austerlitz services southwest France, Spain, Portugal; Gare de l’Est for eastern France, Germany, Switzerland, eastern Europe; Gare de Lyon for southeast France, Italy; Gare de Nord for northern France, Germany, Belgium, Netherlands, UK. From Gare de Lyon, there are trains to Lyon (2hr., €25-92), Marseilles (3-4hr., €25-120), and Nice (5hr. 30min., €25-125). For London and the UK, book up to 120 days in advance with www.eurostar.com (€42-183, 2hr. 30min. to London from Gare du Nord). For Brussels (1hr. 30min., €29-99) and Amsterdam (3hr. 15min., €35-130) from Gare du Nord, use www.thalys.com. For Switzerland from Gare de Lyon to Geneva, book through www.sncf.com (3-4hr., €25-130). For Italy, trains depart from Gare de Lyon; for overnight sleepers, book with www.thello.com (Milan, 10hr. €35-220; Rome, 15hr., €100-275). For Spain, book through www.sncf.com; overnights from Gare d’Austerlitz (Barcelona, 11hr. 30min., €96-211); daytime trains from Gare de Lyon (Barcelona, 6hr. 30min., €106-175). For Germany, book through www.sncf.com (Cologne, 3-4hr. direct, €99-120; Frankfurt, 4hr. direct, €89-119) for overnights and daytime trains.
Thalys.com offers reduced prices for those under 26. Gare du Nord (112 rue de Maubeuge) is the arrival point for trains from northern France and Germany as well as Amsterdam (From €65, 3½hr.), Brussels (From €50, 1hr.), and London €50-120, 2½hr.). Gare de l’Est (78 bd de Strasbourg) receives trains from eastern France and southern Germany, Austria, Hungary, Munich, (€125-163, 9-10½hr.), and Prague (€118-172, 12-15hr.). Gare de Lyon (20 bd Diderot) has trains from Florence (€135-170, 9-12hr.), Lyon (€60-70, 2hr.), Marseille (€45-70, 3-4hr.), Nice (€100, 5½hr.), and Rome (€177-200, 12-15hr.). Gare d’Austerlitz (85 quai d’Austerlitz) services the Loire Valley and the Iberian peninsula, including Barcelona (€135-170, 7-12hr.) and Madrid (€220-300, 12-13hr.). Gare St-Lazare (13 rue d’Amsterdam) will welcome you from northern France, while Gare Montparnasse (17 bd Vaugirard) is the destination of trains from northeastern and southwestern France.
Getting Around
BY Métro
In general, the Métro is easy to navigate, and trains run swiftly and frequently. Most of Paris lies within zones 1-2, so don’t worry about the suburbs in zones 3-5. Pick up a colorful map at any station. Métro stations themselves are a distinctive part of the city’s landscape and are marked with an “M” or with “Métropolitain,” but along the Champs-Élysées, they are unmarked stairs leading underground. The earliest trains start running around 5:30am, and the last ones leave the end-of-the-line stations (the portes de Paris) at about 12:15am during the week and at 2:15am on Friday and Saturday. In general, be at the Métro by 1am if you want to take it home at night. Connections to other lines are indicated by correspondance signs, and exits are marked by blue sortie signs. Transfers are free if made within a station, but it’s not always possible to reverse direction on the same line without exiting. Hold onto your ticket until you exit the Métro and pass the point marked Limite de Validité des Billets; a uniformed RATP contrôleur (inspector) may request to see it on any train. If you’re caught without a ticket, you will have to pay a €30 fine on the spot. It’s a good idea to carry one more ticket than you need, although most, but not all, stations have ticket machines that now accept both bills and coins. Tickets cost €1.70 per journey, although it’s much more useful to buy a carnet of 10 tickets for €13.30. You can also buy unlimited Métro passes for 1 day (€6.60), and on the weekend, young’uns under 26 can buy a day pass for €3.65. For longer visits, you can buy a week- or month-long (€19.80/65.10) Navigo Découverte Pass, which costs an additional €5 and requires a passport photo to attach to the card. Month-long passes begin the 1st day of the month, and week-long passes begin on Monday. You can also buy a Paris Visite pass (meant for tourists) for unlimited travel for 1-5 days with rather meager discounts (1-day pass €10.55; 2-day €17.15; 3-day €23.40; 5-day €33.70.)
When it’s getting really late, your best chance of getting the train you want is heading to the biggest stations, like Gare du Nord, Gare de l’Est, and Châtelet-Les Halles. However, these stations are often full of tourists and pickpockets, so stay alert when traveling at night or avoid it altogether. If you must travel by public transport late at night, get to know the Noctilien bus (see below). When in doubt, take a taxi.
BY RER
The RER (Réseau Express Régional) is the RATP’s suburban train system, which passes through central Paris and travels much faster than the Métro. There are five RER lines, marked A-E, with different branches designated by a number. The newest line, E, is called the Eole (Est-Ouest Liaison Express) and links Gare Magenta to Gare St-Lazare. Within central Paris, the RER works just like the Métro and requires the same ticket for the same price (if you have to transfer from the RER to the Métro or vice versa, however, you will need another ticket). The principal stops within the city that link the RER to the Métro are Gare du Nord, Nation, Charles de Gaulle-Étoile, Gare de Lyon, Châtelet-Les Halles, St-Michel, and Denfert-Rochereau. The electric signs next to each track list all the possible stops for trains running on that track. Be sure that the little square next to your destination is lit up. Trips to the suburbs require more expensive tickets that can also be bought at the automatic booths where you purchase Métro tickets. You must know what zone you’re going to in order to buy the proper ticket. In order to exit the RER station, insert your ticket just as you did to enter and pass through. Like the Métro, the RER runs 5:30am-12:30am on weekdays and until 2:30am on weekends, but never wait until 2:30am to get to the Métro or RER. Again, if you must travel by public transportation late at night, get to know the Noctilien bus.
BY BUS
Although slower than the Métro, a bus ride can be a cheap sightseeing tour and a helpful introduction to the city’s layout. Bus tickets are the same as those used for the Métro and can be purchased in Métro stations or from bus drivers (€1.70). Enter the bus through the front door and punch your ticket by pushing it into the machine next to the driver’s seat. Inspectors may ask to see your ticket, so hold on to it until you get off. When you want to get off, press the red button so the arrêt demandé (stop requested) sign lights up. Most buses run daily 7am-8:30pm, although those marked Autobus du nuit continue until 1:30am. The Noctilien runs all night (daily 12:30am-5:30am) and services more than 45 routes throughout the city. If you plan to use this frequently, get a map of the routes from a Métro station and study it. Hard. Look for bus stops marked with a moon sign. Check out www.noctilien.fr or inquire at a major Métro station or Gare de l’Est for more information on Noctilien buses. Complete bus route maps are posted at the bus stops, while individual lines only give out maps of their own routes. Noctilien #2 runs to all the major train stations along the periphery of the city, while #12 and #13 run between Châtelet and Gare de Montparnasse.
BY TAXI
Traveling by taxi in Paris can be intimidating. Parisian taxis usually have three fares that change based on the time of day and day of the week. Rush hours and early morning hours on the weekends are the priciest, while morning to midday fares on weekdays are the cheapest. Fares are measured out by the kilometer and only switch to waiting time if a trip is over an hour. The pick-up base charge is €2.40, and minimum fare is €6.40. Each additional person after three passengers costs €3, and each additional piece of luggage after the first costs €1. A typical 20min. taxi ride costs €12-20, and a 40min. ride can be as much as €50. Taxis are easily hailed from any major boulevard or avenue, but stands are often outside major Métro intersections. If the taxi’s green light is on, it is available. From the airport, prices skyrocket and begin at €50. It’s never a bad idea to ask for a receipt at the end of your trip in case of dispute or lost property.
If just don’t feel like walking or gambling with timetables, bike rentals may be for you. There are many Vélib’ stations around the city where you can rent a public bike for prices ranging from €1.70 for the day, €8 for the week, and €29 for the year. Each time you take it out, the first 30min. are free, the next 30min. are €1, 2nd additional 30min. are €2, and each additional 30min. thereafter €4. You can return the bike at any Vélib’ station. If you arrive at a station and there are no open spots, go to the machine, punch in your number, and receive an additional 15min. to find another open station. Stations at the top of hills are generally open, and those at the bottom are typically not; spots near major tourist destinations and the quais are often a safe bet. If you want to rent on the spot, you must have a credit card with a chip on it to use the automatic booths where you can rent a bike; otherwise, you can rent from www.velib.fr to receive a subscription code. Paris Bike Tour also offers bike rentals for €20 for a 24hr. period; each extra day costs €10 (13 rue Brantôme 01 42 74 22 14 Open daily 9:30am-6:30pm). The bad news is they also require €250 deposit and a copy of your photo ID.
Nice is undoubtedly a tourist’s city, with a large population of the city’s inhabitants visiting for holiday and the rest of the population living off of the money those vacationers shell out. Asking a local for a “non-touristy restaurant” will cause a legitimate laughing fit and you won’t find a street without a hotel or hostel’s blinking sign out front. Nonetheless, as far as vacation spots go, Nice is a tough one to beat. The weather is perfect, the water is refreshing, the food is delicious, and the views are amazing (not to mention the women, but I guess that’s included in the view). The typical American dreams of traveling to Paris, while the Parisians, who know what’s up, travel instead to Nice.
Nice has a little something for everyone, whether you’re visiting from the jersey shore and just want to drink on the beach, or even if you’re a total nerd and just want to visit some museums, you’ll be able to find what you’re looking for in Nice. (Full disclosure: we went to the museums too. And what’s more, we liked them). In the heart of Nice you’ll find a unique mix of hardcore backpackers, wealthy vacationing families, and a whole lot of French-speaking Nicoise (…duh?). A 20 min bus ride east, however, will help you escape the crowds and venture into Nice’s surrounding seaside towns for a authentic grasp on native Riviera life.
The most important thing about Nic is that within the confines of the city and the towns surrounding it, it’s borderline impossible to be bored. Bask in the sun on the shores of the Plage Mala, stroll down the Promenade des Anglais, snack on a crepe at Le Circuit, or drink ‘til you fall off the table at Wayne’s. Or even better, do them all in one day -there’s more to do tomorrow and even if you had to repeat it all again, would that really be so bad?
SIGHTS
FRENCH RIVIERA
COASTLINE
1-800-PARADISE (but really)
http://www.frenchriviera-tourism.com/
If you’re vacationing in Nice you certainly don’t need to be told to visit the French Riviera as you’re essentially already there. The Riviera or the Côte d’Azur extends along the southern shores of France from the country’s easternmost boundary towards the western edge of Cassis. Obvious stops include Nice and Cannes but some of the best beaches, views, and restaurants are tucked into the cliffs between Monaco and Nice. The locals will boast that Plage Mala (Mala Beach) of Cap D’ail, the little seaside village northeast of Nice, is the most beautiful beach in the world. Let’s Go challenges you to prove us wrong and clue us in, but it’s doubtful that that will happen. Ten mins by bus west of Plage Mala is Villefranche, a quiet village embedded in the seaside cliffs. The icing on the cake for both Villefranche and Cap D’ail is their sense of authenticity. You won’t find nearly as many tourists in either of these two towns, offering a peaceful and genuine glimpse into the lifestyles of the southern French.
For a more lively (or touristy) piece of the Riviera, Monaco, Nice, and Cannes are just as gorgeous, albeit a bit more crowded. Monaco’s coastline harbors some of the world’s most expensive yachts, which are available for charter assuming you just hit the jackpot on every slot machine in the country’s famous Monte Carlo casino. For students a bit less lucky, a stroll down by Monaco’s harbor to glimpse the wealthiest 1% of the world live their lives is entertaining in and of itself.
The opportunities waiting within the French Riviera are limitless – from jumping off five story cliffs into the ocean, to enjoying a quiet view with a glass of wine. It’s difficult to go wrong along the coast. If you need more convincing, you probably shouldn’t travel because you don’t understand what awesome is. But just in case, think about this: Americans travel to Europe for vacation, but Europeans (and smart Americans) travel to the French Riviera.
Priceless. Open Year Round,
PLAGE MALA
BEACH
Cap d’Ail
http://riviera-beaches.com/CapdAil/Mala.html
Plage Mala (Mala Beach) is the number one place to soak up the sun in Nice as recommended by the native Niçoise. Unlike some of the other beaches along the Cote d’Azur, Plage Mala has both components that make a beach great – water AND sand. Thankfully, this beach has more than just the bare minimum. It’s quietly tucked in between a set of intimidating cliffs making for a pleasantly relaxing afternoon of sun bathing, and the lack of tourists gives the sensation of a private beach without the price tag. Lining the cliff faces along the water are a few small caves that seasoned swimmers can venture into, and stand-up paddleboards can make the journey easier for just a few euros.
The route from Nice to Plage Mala by bus is perhaps just as beautiful as the beach itself. The number 100 bus picks up beach-goers at Garibaldi Square and drops them off twenty minutes later at Cap D’ail, the tiny beachside town just uphill from Plage Mala. Along the way, the bus cruises through the hills and tunnels of Villefranche and Eze – quiet, tourist-free towns with streets carved into the mountains and tiny cafes by the sea. The bus route is perched a few hundred feet above sea level, offering panoramic views of the towns, and frequent stops leave room to hop out and take a closer look if the urge strikes.
Finally, by hopping back on the number 100 bus after Cap D’ail, you’ll find yourself in Monaco after only five mins. Wander into the famous Monte Carlo casino and blow the rest of your vacation budget or play it safe by strolling along the shore for a peek at the multimillion-dollar yachts in the harbor.
In conclusion: Plage Mala is perfect. It’s the perfect beach, in the perfect town. It’s the number one must-see while in Nice and its location will get you out of the tourist-ridden areas of Old Town and Massena square and into the oasis that showcases the best that the French Riviera has to offer.
Free!
CASTLE HILL
CHATEAU
Quai des Etats-Unis
http://en.nicetourisme.com/things-to-do/50
Castle Hill, known locally as “the chateau” is a must-see in Nice for one specific reason: never in your life will you come closer to seeing your desktop wallpaper in person. Even with the world’s worst camera-phone, a picture of the Promenade des Anglais from atop Castle Hill is enough to give a blind man wanderlust. From the first lookout point, the view is breathtaking and the higher you climb, the better it gets. The chateau is less touristy than other sites in Nice because you have to have some serious quads to make it to the top.
A few minutes north of Place Massena by foot will lead you into what can only be called the backpacker’s sector of Nice. Every other building is either a kebab shop or a hostel (if you find a building that’s both, please let us know). But much like feeling of grocery store anxiety when choosing a box of cereal, it can be difficult to choose a place to stay. Despite all the options however, three hostels outshine the rest by leaps and bounds. Baccarat, Antares, and Villa St. Exupery are what backpackers’ dreams are made of. They’re irresistible, and they rank amongst the top tier on Hostelworld for good reason.
HOTEL BACCARAT
39 rue d’Angleterre
04 93 88 35 73
The Hotel Baccarat is kind of like the stray dog that was underfed when it was younger but has since been adopted and now, though it’s still a bit mangy, has a vibrant and energetic spirit that makes it impossible not to love. (That was a serious analogy). If you’re looking for a hotel-type living situation with quiet bedrooms, down comforters and ample space, the Baccarat is not your hostel. However, if you’re looking for the best hostel staff and a big population of fellow backpackers, Baccarat is as good as they come. And if you’re a seasoned backpacker, it doesn’t take long to discover that the staff and the hostelmates overshadow the physical amenities every time. Once you stop lying to yourself and admit that you’re in Nice to drink and sunbathe, you’ll realize that the Baccarat is your best option by a long shot. The hostel is ten minutes by foot from Place Massena, Old Town and the beaches, and the minor walk is outweighed by the staff and hostelmates you’ll find at the Baccarat.
Dorms €20-40; Private rooms €50-80. Lockout from 3am-6am (though if the staff know you, they’ll let you in).
HOTEL ANTARES
5 avenue Thiers
04 3 88 22 87
If the hotel Baccarat is the slightly mangy dog with the happy, vibrant personality, the Antares is that dog’s slightly less mangy, slightly less vibrant brother. (Yay! More dog references). As a sister hotel of the Baccarat, the Antares operates similarly. The prices are comparable, as are the amenities. The two hostels are linked by a courtyard and share a kitchen for guest-use. The Antares faces the train station, which is convenient for arrival but slightly less appealing because of the view and the sounds. It is under ten mins by foot from the beach, Old Town, and Place Massena, making its location incredibly convenient. The Antares has a spacious lobby and resembles that of a real hotel more than the Baccarat. However, the lack of a “chill-out room” gives the hotel slightly less of a sense of community (though many clever Antarians mooch off of Baccarat’s common space, blending in with the Baccaratians and making friends in the process).
Dorms: €20 -30; Private rooms: €70-90. Curfew 3-6am.
The route up the hill is visible from the Promenade des Anglais and is as steep as it is long (it’s steep and long). If you’re too out of shape or you’re traveling with your infant child (this is a student travel guide… check yourself), there is a little train that runs up to the top and back down, offering historical information about Nice as you sit back for the ride, wondering when you let yourself go and couldn’t handle a ten minute hike.
A few levels from the top, a man-made waterfall crashes towards the lower levels, emitting a blanket of steam that cools you off and makes for the most instagrammed photo ever. The crashing gallons of water are visible from the beaches below, calling to the tourists of Nice as if to say, “come to me! There are more photos to be taken!” The sad truth, however, is that if you don’t make the hike and take a selfie from the peak of Castle Hill, no one will believe that you’ve been there, including yourself in five years.
Open every day, 8am - 8pm
CHAGALL MUSEUM
MUSEUM
Avenue du Docteur Ménard
493 53 87 20
http://www.musees-nationaux-alpesmaritimes.fr
The Marc Chagall Museum is one of the better-known and more appreciated museums in Nice. It’s perched atop the Avenue du Docteur Menard and is just a ten-minute walk North from L’avenue D’Anglaterre. The museum primarily features Chagall’s religious works documenting his life as a Russian Jew within the context of famous biblical stories. His intensely colorful paintings line the walls of the museum for you to browse, and if the art isn’t really your thing, the museum is well air conditioned which you’ll soon come to value during your time in the French Riviera.
The layout of the museum is quietly pleasant with a small café out front and a well-manicured lawn and garden leading towards the entrance. The museum is fairly close to both the Matisse Museum and the Archeology Museum. Visiting the three will make for a relaxing and easy half-day excursion that will cause you to break neither the bank nor a sweat (seriously, the AC is nice).
Tickets will run you €9 but you’ll be able to knock it down to €7 with a student ID. Groups of ten or more can squeeze in for €7.50 but that likely won’t help you unless you’re chaperoning a field trip. Included in the admission fee is an audio guide (in French or English), which provides some background information on each painting. If you’re not in the mood to trek up the hill to get there, the #15 and #22 buses both stop just out front and a round trip bus pass from the square is only €3.
Ultimately, the Chagall Museum is worth a quick visit if you’re at all interested in art. The pleasant atmosphere is a peaceful escape from the bustle of Old Town and Massena Square and the opportunity to examine the prolific artist’s lesser known works is a great opportunity.
€9. Students €7. Groups of 10+ €7.50. Open 10am - 6pm everyday, Closed all day on Tuesday.
OLD TOWN
NEIGHBORHOOD
Old Town is Nice’s crown jewel, which is immediately apparent given the number of tourists wandering about. On the bright side, this might give you a rare opportunity to hear more English than French as the rest of Nice stays impressively faithful to the country’s native language. Old Town has a touch of everything, from kitschy tourist trinkets, to soap vendors from Marseille, to the city’s best restaurants. Regardless of what you’re looking for, wandering through the narrow alleyways and soaking in the colorful architecture of Southern France is a great experience.
The must-sees in Old Town are many – the Opera House that watches over the beach with the same name, the Palais Lascaris that houses the world’s weirdest musical instruments, and Fennochio’s famous glacier (or gelateria for the Italians). If you have the time, the best way to experience Old Town is to walk into the center and get lost. Each narrow alleyway includes a variety of small mom and pop shops, from art dealers, to incense vendors, to yes, even a sex shop. More importantly, Old Town is the hub of Nice’s nightlife. Bars, discotechs, clubs, it’s all in Old Town.
Old Town’s charm is matched by convenience as it lies smack in the middle of Massena Square and Garibaldi Square. The further towards the latter you find yourself, the quieter and less touristy the streets become. The restaurants in this area will cost a bit less and the service will be a bit better, but you’ll miss out on the people-watching that the more touristy areas of Old Town are great for.
MUSEUM OF MODERN AND CONTEMPORARY ART
MUSEUM
Place Yves Klein
497 13 42 01
The Museum of Modern and Contemporary Art is a behemoth of modern art and architecture sitting just to the east of Old Town. The museum’s layout itself is a work of art and it’s worth a visit just to wander about in the garden outside. Built in the shape of a square, the museum sits three stories tall with galleries on every floor. Each corner of the square features large, spacious exhibits filled with works of art ranging from paintings, to cleverly arranged trash, to an old desk with various objects on top (or maybe that was just the reception desk…modern art is weird). In the middle of the museum is a courtyard filled with interesting sculptures such as giant mobiles and a loch ness monster created out of shattered mirrors. Behind the museum is a sprawling garden with statues, the most notable of which is a giant human head also in the shape of a square.
The art inside is interesting to say the least, but as anyone who’s been to a modern art museum will tell you, it’s not for everyone. There is, however, a feature of the Museum of Modern and Contemporary Art that is for everyone (except maybe those with a fear of heights) and that’s the 360 degree panoramic view of all of Nice from the top of the museum. Just like the layout below, the roof of the museum features walkways across the perimeter of the building’s roof with lookout points on all four corners, one of which is adorned with a rainforest-like garden named after the garden of Eden.
Logistically, the museum is a student’s paradise. It’s entirely free. It’s air-conditioned. It’s in the center of Nice and within walking distance from almost everything. And last but not least, the cafeteria serves alcohol (as does essentially every place in Nice). Stop by on a cloudy day when the beach seems less appealing and browse some of France’s best works of modern art – you have nothing to lose. Literally. It’s free. What do you have to lose?
Admission is free, Guided tours for €5. Open 10am-6pm. Everyday except Monday.
PLACE MASSENA
SQUARE
Place Massena, or Massena Square, is the epicenter of downtown Nice that connects the beaches of the Promenade des Anglais to Old Town and the hostels to the North. The square is as spacious and well thought-out as it is beautiful, making for a fantastic place to wander. During the daytime, the square buzzes with tourists and locals alike, snapping photos, commuting, and lazing about on the benches.
In the center of the square, a giant statue of Poseidon stands in the middle of a beautiful stone fountain and watches over the Avenue D’Anglaterre to the north. To his right lies a plaza erupting with streams of water inhabited by both children and sweaty tourists. To the left, a similar plaza emits cool vents of steam for those who, for some reason or another, can’t commit to slightly more moisture. Straight ahead, along the Avenue D’Anglaterre, naked man-statues crouch in different poses atop metal pillars that glow in different colors throughout the night. The combination of these statues with the one of Poseidon in the center creates a borderline overwhelming amount of naked men in the square, which I guess can be entertaining if that’s what you’re into.
The tram runs through the middle of the square and is a quick way to get around but the best way to experience Place Massena is by foot. The square is within walking distance of most everything you’d want to see and the real experience comes from immersing yourself in the crowds of the square.
The square is free (obviously), but the shops and restaurants surrounding it will likely lure you in at least for a moment. The entrance to Old Town borders the Southeast side of the square and the beach lies a few hundred meters to the South of Poseidon. Grab your swimming trunks, some walking shoes, and a few spare euros and hit the square for a taste of all things Nice.
PALAIS LASCARIS
MUSEUM
15 rue Droite
493 62 72 40
http://nice.fr/Culture/Musees-et-expositions/Le-palais-Lascaris
The Palais Lascaris is a fun little museum tucked into the winding side streets of Old Town. But be warned: it’s difficult to find, as despite the beautiful and ornate paintings of of its anterior, its outer appearance is unremarkable and easy to miss (insert joke about ex-girlfriend here). If you manage to find the palace, the scattered rooms inside are exquisitely decorated and entertaining to browse through. Some rooms appear to be turned upside down—expertly woven carpets with detailed murals sewn in adorn the walls, and intense, beautiful frescos are strewn across the ceilings. In other rooms, you’ll find the typical paintings of an old rich person with interspersed musical instruments that you’ve almost undoubtedly never seen before. In fact, the original inhabitant of the Palais Lascaris was a collector of rare and interesting musical instruments, which is one of the primary reasons for the preservation of the museum today. If you’re interested in browsing through the world’s largest collection of the world’s smallest violins, this is the place to go.
If rare and exotic instruments isn’t your cup of tea, the Palais Lascaris is still quite a visual treat. The artwork lining the walls, ceilings, and essentially every surface of the building is expertly painted and impossibly ornate. Depictions of Greek mythology tower above you as you sneak past sculptures of ancient biblical women. And even many of the instruments themselves are painted with colorful murals.
For residents of the U.S. or students under 26 years of age, the entrance to the museum is free. Guided tours are available, but are entirely in French and are geared towards the field trips of 8 year-old schoolchildren that they’re overrun with and are consequently not recommended. Access to the palace is limited to bipedal organisms (namely humans with legs) as the entrance is not accessible by car or bus and the primary focus of the palace is up a few flights of stairs. Nonetheless, for those tackling the palace on foot, the museums convenient location right in the heart of Old Town makes it easy to visit.
Free admission. Guided tours for €5. Open 10am-6pm every day but Tuesday. Closed on holidays.
PROMENADE DES ANGLAIS
STREET
Promenade des Anglais
http://en.nicetourisme.com/promenade-des-anglais
The Promenade des Anglais lines the southern coast of France and looks out onto the Mediterranean Sea. The Niçois Travel Bureau calls it the “most famous promenade in the world,” and between the sculptures, palm trees, and beaches you’ll quickly see why. The building of the promenade was originally proposed by the wealthy English vacationers who spent their winters in Nice to avoid the cold weather back home. This in turn led to its name, translated from French as: “the promenade of the English.”
The coastline along the promenade is packed with beach-goers of all walks of earth, soaking up the sun on a variety of public and private beaches. The common motif amongst them all, however, is rocks. Along the promenade’s coast you won’t find any sand, as the beaches consist of medium-sized pebbles. In the hotter months, these will heat up quite a bit and you’ll be given the luxury of choosing whether you’d rather burn your feet by walking slowly along the coals or bruise them by stumbling across them quickly. On the bright side, the water is objectively perfect; cool enough to be refreshing while warm enough fend off any shivers.
Depending on your location, the side of the promenade opposite the beach will change from parks, to restaurants, to the famous Nice Opera House. If your ADHD kicks in and walking along the promenade is too slow, clearly labeled bike lanes allow you to triple the speed of your promenade-viewing pleasure. For the best view of the promenade in all its glory, take a hike up Castle Hill towards the chateau. The entire walk is lined with jaw dropping views of the coast and the steep incline will help you burn off enough calories to improve your beach body for your afternoon dip.
Free, Prices vary for private beach admission. Open all day, every day. Skinny dipping at night is borderline legal and worth the rush.
FOOD
Nice has a bit of everything in terms of food, and since there’s so much competition for tourists’ hard-earned cash, most restaurants bring their A game. Old Town is saturated with restaurant after restaurant and while you could subsist off of Fennochio’s 100+ flavors of glace during your stay, we suggest you try a few other options (and then subsist off of Fennochio’s 100+ flavors of glace).
FENOCCHIO
ICE CREAM $
2 Place Rosetti
493 80 72 52
6 Rue de la Poissonerie
493 62 88 80
Fenocchio is Nice’s famous Glacier (the French word for gelateria) which serves more than 100 different flavors of glace. Choices range from the basic (think chocolate and vanilla) to the more eccentric (think avocado, beer, or Irish whiskey). However, even the most basic flavors have variations that make deciding what to order a nightmare, albeit a great nightmare to have. In addition to chocolate, the gelateria offers dark chocolate, cacao, chocolate chili, mocha, chocolate-ginger, chocolate-orange, and other chocolate based flavors (the best of which is obviously cacao). Given that there are literally 100+ flavors, you would be remiss not to try one of the more eccentric ones. Speculoos is flavored after the gingerbread cookie butter spread and is objectively the greatest tasting substance known to man. A popular flavor amongst the staff is pecan and maple syrup, which is also delectable. As a rule of thumb, you can’t go wrong here unless you order the olive flavor in which case you still may not have gone wrong, we just haven’t tried it ourselves.
Fenocchio exists in two separate locations which are located just far enough apart for you to finish your first helping of glace before arriving at the next location for seconds (we see what you did there, Fenocchio…) The prices are reasonable (€2.50 for one scoop and €1.50 for each additional scoop) and especially when you give up on eating real food and decide to subsist on Fenocchio’s glace alone. It’s possible and it’s recommended, and we’ll even allow you a few cheat days when you can add alcohol into your diet to supplement the ice cream.
1 scoop €2.50. Each additional scoop is €1.50. Open daily 9am-12am. (Poissonerie location closed Tuesdays).
PIZZA $$
4 Rue St. Gaetan
493 92 70 42
Drunchies joints in Nice are few and far between. A typical night out lasts ‘til around 2 am and once you stumble out of the bar looking for something greasy that you’ll likely regret in the morning, it can be a bit heartbreaking to realize the lights of your favorite kebab stop are out. Fortunately for you, there’s Stuzzico. This hole-in-the-wall Italian pizzeria is just a few hundred yards away from Wayne’s and Pompeii, making the time frame between your last beer and your first slice conveniently short. Although the actual quality of the pizza is mostly irrelevant to you at that point in the night, you can sleep soundly knowing that, unlike everyone else, the determined field researchers of Let’s Go tasted Stuzzico while sober, and it has our stamp of approval.
Stuzzico itself is actually a fully functioning restaurant during the daytime. The seating is mostly indoors with ample space and a pleasant, if not the most fancy, atmosphere. As the sun sets, the staff close up shop, and serve delicious foodstuff out of the exterior counter. You can browse the available toppings (flavors?) and order from the sidewalk. For obvious reasons (aka everyone is drunk when they order), there is no outdoor seating at night. The building across the street however, has a wide ledge conveniently placed at butt-height. This is where the majority of nightclub escapees choose to eat, as is apparent by the greasy paper plates littering the ground in the immediate area. While cheap pizza at midnight in a narrow alleyway with standing room only may sound depressing while sober, all you’ll really understand of that sentence while drunk is the word “pizza,” which is just as well, as you won’t regret a Stuzzico slice.
Slices: €3.50 Euro; Small Pizza: €7-10; Large: €11.50-15. Open daily 10am-12am (though tends to close later depending on the circumstances).
LA MAMA
NIÇOISE $$$
17 Rue Pairolière
493 85 70 85
La Mama is your go-to for French food specific to Nice. Plates from this seaside city (say that 10 times fast) range from deep fried zucchini fritters with a hint of lemon juice to decadent beef stew poured over polenta. If you have a few spare euros, the menu prix fixe runs about €24 but will provide an entrée (appetizer), a plat (real entrée), and a dessert (dessert). If that type of cash makes your wallet sad, opt for the mussels instead. They’re so fresh they’re almost alive, will run you half the price of the menu prix fixe, and can be prepared a variety of different ways. What’s more–they come in a really cool cauldron so you can feel like an underwater witch when you eat them (if you want to do that… you might not).
La Mama’s atmosphere adds to its quiet French charm in the same way its food does. It’s tucked away behind Place Garibaldi (the significantly less touristy of the two plazas) and is hidden along a tiny winding alleyway. The seating is primarily outside and the only other inhabitants of the street are other folks eating dinner in the same fashion. Overall, the restaurant is a cute and secluded way to experience Niçoise food and culture while distancing yourself a bit from the mob of Old Town. You can also justify a trip here as French lesson, as the menus are written entirely in French, and only one of the waiters knows English (though this is not atypical for a Niçoise restaurant. If you’re going to splurge on dinner, you may as well do so in an authentically French fashion.
€10-30. Open daily 11:30am-10pm.
LE CIRCUIT
BREAKFAST $
29 Palace Saetone
493 88 94 93
Le Circuit is your best value-per-cost breakfast in Nice assuming you eat more than a single egg when you wake up. This simple little café overlooks a side street roundabout and has a sunny, pleasant atmosphere. It is entirely family-run and the staff is enthusiastic about their customers and will often sit and chat with the regulars with a cup of espresso or a warm croissant.
The food is superb and for the money it costs, can’t be beat within the limits of the city. Crepes will run anywhere from €2 - €7.50 but the greatest feature of Le Circuit is the “breakfast.” Not only is it the only title on the menu in English, but its also a complete breakfast unlike the average French café’s misleading title for a piece of bread and a cup of coffee. For €7.50 you can get a cup of orange juice, an espresso or café americain, half a baguette with butter and jam, and an omelet (or sunny side up eggs). For breakfast in France, that’s about as much physical food-mass you can get for €7.50, and if you’re still hungry, you can either start your diet right then and there or head over to the McDonalds a few blocks away and binge eat your problems away (we’ve all been there, its just more sad on vacation). The bottom line is this: If you, like most people, wake up hungry, and if you, like most students, wake up poor, Le Circuit is a gem of a breakfast joint. When you find yourself frequenting it, you’ll know who to thank.
Coffee €2. Crepes from €2. Full breakfasts from €6.
CREPERIE BRETONNE
CREPES $
85 Avenue du 3 Septembre
493 78 20 02
The Creperie Bretonne is one of the more perplexing cafes in the area as the entire operation from seating, to taking orders, to cooking and even cleaning seems to be undertaken by one single man. This feat is more impressive considering the quality of the food, the actual size of the café, and the reviews that the creperie gets. While not exactly in Nice proper, the creperie is located just down the street from the bus stop in Cap d’Ail. What this means for the creperie is that it gets a lot of visits from passersby. What this means for you is that you can enjoy one of the best crepes of your life on you way to Plage Mala.
The first thing you’ll need to understand about the Creperie Bretonne (and all French creperies for that matter), is the two distinct categories of crepes: sweet or savory. The savory crepes here are much like breakfast sandwiches and often include delicious breakfast ingredients such as eggs, ham, cheese, mushrooms, etc. They’re somewhat like the French interpretation of the omelet (which the Creperie Bretonne also serves). These crepes are not so much a means to an end when you’re hungry, but rather a work of art in and of themselves. Perfectly sculpted crepes dripping with meat and cheese are the best way to wake up. If you’re still hungry (which you won’t be, but remember that the meal isn’t over until you hate yourself), try one of the dessert crepes. These feature assorted fruit jams, chocolate spread, or even just plain sugar for those who like to get straight to the point.
Crepes €4-8. Coffee €1.50.
NAN KEBAB
KEBABS $
Rue de Belgique
Nan Kebab is somewhat of a hybrid kebab place with a creative take on kebabs. Here the kebabs are wrapped up in nan, a type of thick pita bread with melted cheese baked into the inside. The result is interesting, filling, and separates Nan Kebab from the three other kebab vendors on that street alone. Nan Kebab is also fairly cheap, as a kebab, fries and drink will run just under €8 (okay that’s not that cheap but you’re in Nice and beggars can’t be choosers).
Besides the price, the other tangible benefit to Nan Kebab is its location. Most hostels are situated roughly ten min north from Place Massena, and the majority of the best food venues in Nice are around Old Town. If you need a quick bite and are teetering on the edge of a hypoglycemic coma, Nan Kebab is just around the corner from most hostels in the area and will happily fill you’re stomach for just a few euros. It’s worth noting, however, that the staff here doesn’t speak English, which poses a slight difficulty in terms of ordering. Don’t be surprised if what you think you ordered isn’t what you really ordered and consequently isn’t what you get. Regardless, the mystery adds to the fun and most meals on the menu are delicious anyway.
Kebabs €5 (+€1 for fries, +€1 for drink). Open daily 10am-8pm.
PLANET SUSHI
SUSHI $$
42 blvd Jean Jaures
497 08 08 08
http://www.planetsushi.fr/restaurant/planet-sushi-nice/
Planet Sushi is not exactly what you’d expect when dining out in Nice but the set up of the restaurant is too interesting to pass up with out trying. The venue is something straight out of Lost in Translation (aka Tokyo), with its clean white walls, neon pink lights, and purple chairs. Seating is available outside and in, but the real experience comes from sitting at the sushi bar. The sushi bar is in the middle and left side of the restaurant and has chairs on each side facing one another. In the middle, a conveyor belt continuously runs in front of your place setting, transporting little plates of sushi by your nose and begging you to snatch one. The plates are color coded according to three apparent criteria: 1. How fancy the sushi looks, 2. How good the sushi is, and 3. Price.
Planet Sushi’s interesting set up does, however, come with a few drawbacks. First of all, you have no idea what you’re eating as none of the plates are labeled. This is not a huge issue, but it can be disconcerting to bite into a piece of sushi hoping for fish and getting a mouthful of cream cheese. The second issue is that you can’t really tell how long each sushi roll has been on the conveyor belt. There’s a frightening chance that, against all odds, one little California roll missed everyone’s chopsticks for the past four hours and now you’re the shmuck who’s going to eat it. You pay for Planet Sushi for the atmosphere, and the sushi, though not the greatest you’ll ever eat, is an added bonus. Not the best decision for the budget-travel backpacker, but a fun decision nonetheless.
Meals €10-25. Open daily 11am-11pm.
GRANNY’S CRÊPERIE ET SALON DE THÉ
CAFE $
5, place de l’Ancien Sénat
If your grandmother was a little bit eccentric, had a house in rural France that you visited every summer, and collected colorful knickknacks, this café would probably remind you of her. Granny’s is located right in the middle of Old Town, just past the flower market and around the corner. It’s in a slightly less trafficked area and is tucked into shady alcove that will help you escape the heat and the noise. Vintage toy robots line the walls and the menu is written on a giant toy xylophone, causing flashbacks to a time when your parents paid for all your meals and you didn’t know what having a job meant.
Seating is entirely outside, and the patio is fenced in by an array of plants on one side and a boutique toy store on the other. The tables are a soft yellow and the chairs are covered in sun-bleached pink and yellow cushions, ultimately encasing the café in a warm, comfortable aura (unless like, you hated your grandma or something). The crepes are tasty but won’t make your head explode with amazement. Though in such a popular area of Nice, and for a measly €3-€7, Granny’s crepes are worth a bite.
Crepes from €3-7. Coffee €2. Open daily 10am-5pm.
NIGHTLIFE
Nightlife in Nice can be a bit picky and a bit sporadic. As many of locals will be quick point out, backpackers in Nice don’t know where to go, so the best bar or club on a given night generally tends to be the one that the most backpackers accidentally wander into…Nonetheless, Wayne’s, Pompeii, and Checkpoint are the most consistent and generally the best options. Weekends tend to usher in uncomfortably crowded dance floors making week nights more comfortable options at the popular hangouts. Unlike the nocturnal discotheques of Madrid, nightlife in Nice slows down after 2am, with only a handful of options open later than that. Your best bet is to pre-game with your hostel friends (you’ve made friends, haven’t you?) and then venture down to Old Town to scope out the best venue for the night.
WAYNE’S BAR & RESTAURANT
RESTAURANT, BAR
15 Rue de la Prefecture
493 13 46 99
Wayne’s is more or less the heart and soul of Nice’s young adult nightlife. Catering to backpackers and locals alike, you’ll be hard pressed to spend a night out in Nice without ending up at Wayne’s at least for a drink or two. Among the hostel community, it has the famous reputation of being “the bar where everyone dances on the tables and chairs.” This reputation is entirely well deserved, as the average night at Wayne’s is distinctly similar to the old playground game where you can’t touch the ground because it’s lava.
Most nights feature live music based mostly around alternative rock cover bands, which is typical of Niçoise nightlife and a welcome break from the thumping bass of a discotech. The staff aren’t so much friendly as they are forgiving – the sound of broken glass accompanies the bad on most every song – but we hope that you’re not heading to the bar with the intention of hanging out with the bartender anyways.
Wayne’s is right in the middle of Old Town, as with much of Nice’s nightlife, making it easy to access and easy to leave if it’s having an off night (be wary of weekends, as it often gets uncomfortably crowded). Drinks are fairly expensive and a cheap beer or a shot will run you upwards of €5 with a mixed drink cashing in at around €7. As such, most folks will solve this cost conundrum with a serious pregame, leaving the necessity for only a drink or two once at Wayne’s. Finally, its peak hours are from about 12am til 2am when the bar closes. Nice’s nightlife is a testament to the adage, early to bed, early to rise, makes a man healthy, wealthy, and… not hungover.
No cover charge. Beers € 5+; shots and mixed drink €7+. Open daily 10am-2am.
BULLDOG PUB POMPEII
PUB
16 Rue de l’Abbaye
699 29 89 10
https://www.facebook.com/16abbayepompei
Bulldog Pub Pompeii has a bit more of a club feel than Wayne’s, if only in name (note: the common vernacular name is just Pompeii). There is more open space and the live music is similar, if not a bit better, (think Kings of Leon cover band with a lady singer who sings only in French). The pub is separated into three distinct areas, all with a very specific function. In the front is the bar. This is self-explanatory – order your drink, and move on. To the right is the stage and the dance floor, where the majority of the crowd congregates for obvious reasons. Finally, upstairs are the restrooms and the balcony which doubles as a smoking room (read: cigarette tornado). The balcony looks out onto the dance floor and stage, which is actually quite cool, and even more so if your lungs inhale more tobacco and nicotine than they do oxygen.
Pompeii is located in a quiet little alleyway in Old Town and is only about five min from Wayne’s by foot. It opens at 11pm and closes at 5am, making it one of the latest available options for nightlife in Nice. Like most of the better bars in the area, drinks aren’t cheap. A beer will run you around €7 and a cocktail is a steep €9. The crowd here leans a bit more towards locals than at Wayne’s, but backpackers are welcome and often present. To prevent the suffocating crowds that can be found elsewhere, the bouncers here are a bit stricter with regards to maximum capacity. They aren’t choosy per se, but they’ll make you wait until someone leaves before letting you in if the dance floor is a bit tight. Overall, Pompeii is a lively and entertaining pub and is a welcome break from Wayne’s, which, while also fun, can get a bit monotonous after too many nights in a row.
Beer €7; Cocktails €9. Open daily 11pm-5am.
CHECKPOINT PUB
PUB
2 rue Desboutin
666 39 64 94
Checkpoint is the third of the three most popular bars in Nice and resembles your typical Irish Pub (its logo is a green, white, and orange shamrock). Depending on the night, Checkpoint may be the cheapest option for nightlife in Nice. Monday nights provide €.50 glasses of champagne (unfortunately, only for girls). Tuesday night includes a happy hour before midnight that provides €4 pints and €5 cocktails. Wednesday is karaoke night with €2 shots and Thursday night is open mic night with the same happy hour options as Tuesday. Friday and Saturday the drinks will be full price (€5 a beer and €8 per cocktail) and Sunday is back to karaoke, this time offering cocktails instead of shots at €5 a pop.
While Checkpoint can be a bit of a mixed bag with slightly cheaper drink options, the atmosphere is generally a bit lacking when compared to Wayne’s or Pompeii. The crowds will be thinner, which is preferable if that’s what you’re looking for, and if you arrive with some good friends, Checkpoint is a good option for just chilling and chatting. Ruling Checkpoint out would be a disservice as on the occasional odd night, the population of backpackers will congregate here rather than at Wayne’s, making Checkpoint the better option by a landslide.
Like all of Nice’s nightlife, Checkpoint is in the middle of Old Town, and is therefore easy to get to and easy to bail on if something better calls your name. The pub is friendly to backpackers and locals alike and the ratio between the two varies significantly on a nightly basis. If you’re sick of Wayne’s or if, for some reason, you’d rather be in Ireland than in the French Riviera, head down to Checkpoint for a pint of Guinness and a chance to make a fool of yourself singing karaoke, even if its not karaoke night.
No Cover Charge. Prices vary by night, full prices: €5 beer; €8 cocktails. Open daily 4pm-2:30am.
OPERA PLAGE
BEACH
Promenade des Anglais
When the financial burden of hitting the bars or clubs becomes too much to bear, the frugal backpacker will join his or her fellow travellers on Opera Beach for cheap wine and chill vibes. Drinking on the beach is inexpensive, fun, and much more intimate than the bar scene in Old Town. What’s more, if you drink enough, you’ll no longer notice that the beach is entirely pebbles and not sand (on the bright side, you won’t get sand in your sneakers while you’re there).
While the bars in Nice lack nothing in energy, they do lack somewhat in variety. Hitting Wayne’s, Pompeii, or Checkpoint every night can get exhausting (oh poor you) and on a night off when you still want to hang with some friends, the beach is the budget traveller’s dream come true. A bottle of rosé or red wine will run you just north of €5 at the local Monoprix and 12 pack of beer can be had for under €8 (those are some appetizing prices).
The beach is conveniently located next to a large body of water. Once your inebriated self becomes uninhibited, strip down to your birthday suit and jump in the water. There is no better icebreaker than an ice bath and once you leave nothing to the imagination, there is nowhere to go but up.
Free (well, buy some wine first).
THE BAY FESTIVAL
FESTIVAL
Promenade des Anglais (Subject to change)
The Bay Festival is an indie electronic music festival featuring lots of international artists such as Bondax, Ryan Hemsworth, Flume, and Cashmere Cat. The festival is targeted heavily towards college-aged delinquents and its location right along the Promenade des Anglais makes for a perfect sun-drenched summer festival. Hit the festival with your friends and vibe out to some chillwave, dreamwave, and all other kinds of waves that make you feel like your floating.
The festival exists in four parts, spanning all of June and then a finale in August. The lineups improve as time passes with the August date boasting the better known artists. As can be expected, the price increases with each event as well, with the first night running you only €16 but the finale costing a pricey €28. The opening acts begin around 6pm and the headliner makes an appearance after 11pm. Liking the festival’s Facebook page will conveniently provide you with updates about the whereabouts of the after party, which lasts till the brutal hours of the morning.
While the locations are subject to change, all are within a few minutes of the Promenade des Anglais. Popular venues include Florida Beach and Theatre of Green, both outdoors and both ideal for a festival of this size. Expect just under 1,000 people ready to dance for hours in an intoxicated daze of electro indie-pop.
Admission €16- 28, depending on date. Open 6pm-1am.
LE GRAND CAFE DE LYON
BAR
33 Avenue Jean Medecin
493 88 13 17
The Grand Café de Lyon is the most misleading venue you’ll find in the nightlife section of Nice. It is not a café in the general sense. It is not necessarily nightlife per se. It is not in Lyon. What it is, however, is essentially is a daytime bar with extensive outdoor seating which makes for some of the best people-watching that exists in Nice. Structurally, the café is something straight out of a Wes Anderson film. Golden chairs, red neon trim, soft lighting, mirrored walls, and a glassware collection that seems never ending. Furthermore, the infinite selection of beers, cocktails and all forms of alcohol leaves room for experimentation and a trial by error way of getting wasted.
The café is located just north of Place Massena along the avenue Jean Médecin, a bustling street populated by both tourists and locals. For the typical backpacker living a few blocks north of the beach, the café splits the distance and provides an opportunity to rehydrate on your way to the water.
Anticipating a visit here to be that of a typical café will leave you disappointed and hungry as the food is expensive and by no means the café’s forte. Instead opt for a bottle of Delirium Tremens, a beer named after the hallucinations that occur during alcohol withdrawal. The tastelessness of the name is masked by the tastiness of the beer, which has been frequently hailed as the best beer in the world. While the drinks are more expensive than those in the corner store, the selection is vast and the atmosphere is uniquely enjoyable, making day drinking feel slightly less shameful.
Beer from €5. Cocktails from €7. Snacks from €3. Open daily 7am-11pm.
YOUR NEIGHBORHOOD HOSTEL
HOSTELS
Believe it or not, one of your best bets for nightlife (depending on where you’re staying of course) is your own hostel. Nice is inherently a tourist’s city, and the backpackers that stay there are, for the most part, dirt poor. Somewhere down the line they realized that the best hostels are the ones that allow them to buy alcohol from the liquor store (or any store, because, well, France) and bring it to the hostel to rage. Enter the party hostel – the temporary housing situation for young folks trying to get their drink on without getting their debt on. Thanks to the creation of the party hostel, 8pm til midnight in Nice is all about the hostel pregame. This pregame will vary widely depending on where you’re staying, but most good hostels will have some get together or another. Villa St. Exupery hosts a happy hour while Hotel Baccarat boasts a full-blown champagne party every other night.
The other primary reason why the hostel pregame is an essential part of Nice nightlife is as follows. Backpackers make up a huge portion of the bar and club population on a given night. The average backpacker knows between 0 and 4 fellow backpackers in his or her given city. The average backpacker wants to meet more than just those 0-4 people and this is intrinsically difficult in a crowded nightclub. Thus, the hostel pregame allows people to meet each other and hangout, all with the glorious social lubricant of alcohol. Rolling up to a club solo and sober is an interesting game plan (read: it’s a bad game plan). Rolling up to a club with several other inebriated backpackers whom you just met is awesome. Ipso facto, the hostel pregame is as much a necessity as it is a luxury.
Varies by location. Liquor store beers: €1+; Wine: €5+. Generally speaking, 8pm-12am.
ESSENTIALS
Practicalities
• TOURIST OFFICE: Avenue Thiers - Gare SNCF. (892 70 74 07; www.nicetourisme.com. This tourist office is incredibly convenient as it’s located directly outside of the train station in Nice. The office provides maps, brochures, and other touristy information and a receptionist is available for interrogation from 8am-8pm.)
• POST OFFICE: 21 Avenue Thiers. (Open M-F 8am-7pm and 8am-12pm on Saturday.). Additional post offices are scattered all throughout the city.
• POSTAL CODE: 06000
• EMBASSY: 7 Avenue Gustave V. (04 93 88 89 55; http://www.marseille.usconsolate.gov/nice/.html. Open M-F 9-11:30am and 1:30-4:30pm.)
Emergency
• POLICE: 1 Avenue Marechal Foch. (492 17 22 22)
• HOSPITAL: Hospital Saint Roch. (5 Rue Pierre Devoluy 493 62 06 91)
• PHARMACY: Pharmacies are located on essentially every street in Nice and are easily spotted due to the flashing neon green crosses out front (no these are not medical marijuana dispensaries).
Getting There
By Plane
Nice-Cote d’Azur (08 20 42 33). Shuttles from the airport to the train station run every thirty minutes.
By Train
Gare SNCF Nice-Ville. (Avenue Thiers 04 93 14 82 12 www.sncf.com) Trains run to Cannes, Marseille, Monaco, and Paris.
By Bus
Gare Routiere. (5 blvd. Jean Juares 04 92 00 42 93) Number 100 bus runs from Nice to Monaco/Menton. Tickets are €1.50 one way.
By Ferry
Corsica Ferries. (04 92 00 42 93 corsicaferries.com)
Getting Around
velo Blue (velobleu.org) is much like citybike or other comparable companies. rent a bike for roughly 1 euro per hour and return the bike to any veloblue stand in Nice.
Cannes is one of three cities along the French Riviera whose net worth wouldn’t increase if every notable movie star the world over congregated in the city for a festival. It’s also the only city along the French Riviera where this actually happens. Home to the famous Cannes Film Festival, Cannes is a city of glamour, riches, and excess. As a student traveler on a budget, your dollar won’t stretch too far here but that doesn’t mean you can’t have a great time. For those with a lot of money there are three things to do: Shop, lie on the beach, and party. For those without: eliminate the first option and just lie on the beach and party. Or better yet—party on the beach.
Unfortunately, with the glamour and glitz of Cannes comes a bit of superficiality. Poor students in dirty clothes aren’t always treated the same as the billionaires and their trophy wives in €6000 designer dresses. As the natives will eloquently inform you: you won’t get into any nightclub worth going to unless you’re wearing heels or smell like money.
At the end of the day, though Cannes is a little slice of paradise. The beaches are blanketed in soft, imported sand. The restaurants are delicious. The women are beautiful, (and the men are rich if that’s what you’re into). And if you can sneak your way in, the nightlife is exhilarating. What more could you really want?
SIGHTS
There’s quite a lot to do in Cannes, but at the end of the day, no matter how much you read about the culture, and art, and history of the city, you’ll spend most of your time at the beach or at the bar. Nonetheless, if you hate the sand and the sun (which not-coincidentally also means that you probably hate world-peace and love communism), there are still some great things to do in Cannes. Below you’ll find some tips on the best beaches, the best sights, and the best beaches (see what we did there?).
LE SUQUET
NEIGHBORHOOD
Le Suquet is the old quarter of Cannes located just East of La Croisette. The area is populated primarily with restaurants and tiny boutique shops which, oddly enough for Cannes, aren’t selling €5000 designer dresses. Le Suquet starts near the Bay of Cannes which is crowded with multimillion dollar yachts during the summer months. Climbing up the winding streets will eventually lead you to Place de la Castre, the site of the Musee and Eglise de la Castre. This modest hill will also afford you the best view of Cannes without a helicopter or private jet (which is kind of a joke, but not really considering the wealth in this city).
Le Suquet is an attraction in Cannes for a variety of reasons in addition to those mentioned above. First and foremost, while not technically a part of Le Suquet, Midi Plage and the beaches next to it are a few minutes away by foot and are some of the best public beaches in the city. Le Marché Forville takes place within the confines of Le Suquet each morning. The market is a large indoor venue that resembles a train station (without any trains) and hosts a variety of vendors in the morning and early afternoon of most weekdays. The primary focus of the vendors is often fresh fruits and vegetables and the occasional baguette.
All things considered, Le Suquet’s primary draw is food. Some of the best restaurants in Cannes are nestled into the neighborhood’s narrow winding streets. Bring your camera and your appetite and grab some oysters at Astoux et Brun after your hike back down from Place de la Castre.