MUSÉE DE L’ORANGERIEMUSEUM
Jardin des Tuileries
01 44 50 43 00
Although this was once the greenhouse of the Jardin des Tuileries, the only flowers that the Musée de l’Orangerie holds now are Monet’s Water Lilies, which remains a surprisingly serene exhibit despite the crowds. The museum displays primarily works by Impressionist and post-Impressionist painters such as Monet, Picasso, and Renoir and received the collection of renowne dart collector Paul Guillaume in the 1960s. Show up at 9am or on free Sundays (the first Sunday of every month) if you don’t want to roast in the sun for most of the day.
Concorde. Walk down pl. de la Concorde along the Tuileries Gardens to its main entrance and turn right immediately; the museum is in front. €7.50, students and after 5pm €5. Combined ticket with Musée d’Orsay €16. Free 1st Su every month. 
Open M 9am-6pm, W-Su 9am-6pm. Last entry 5:30pm, rooms cleared at 5:45pm.
MUSÉE DES ARTS DÉCORATIFS
MUSEUM
107 rue de Rivoli
01 44 55 57 50
Fashion-conscious Francophiles and lovers of pretty things could easily spend a full day perusing the Musée des Arts Decoratifs. Spanning 10 floors, this enormous museum complex is comprised of three different collections, in addition to many smaller exhibits. Arts Décoratifs (Interior Design), Mode et Textile (Fashion and Fabric), and Publicité (Advertisement) are all dedicated to haute couture designs that the average tourist has probably never experienced. The Arts Décoratifs have exhibits on interior design, from period rooms of the Middle Ages to part of Jeanne Lanvin’s house to some groovy, Proust-inspired furniture from the ‘70s. The Mode et Textile has exhibits on the evolution of fashion from the ’70s to the ’90s and features small exhibits on prominent fashion designers, including Yves Saint Laurent. The jewelry collection, Galerie des Bijoux, will make anyone’s engagement ring look embarrassing.
Palais Royal-Musée du Louvre. Walk with the traffic on rue de Rivoli; the museum is on the left. Free audio tour. All 3 museums €9.50, ages 18-25 €7.50, under 18 and EU citizens 18-25 free. Open Tu-Su 11am-6pm, temporary exhibitions have extended hours Th until 9pm. Last entry 30min. before close.
ÉGLISE SAINT-EUSTACHE
CHURCH
2 rue du Jour
01 42 36 31 05
With so many cathedrals in Paris, it can quickly seem like a competition of “Whose is bigger?” And while size doesn’t matter to God, Église St-Eustache probably never worried about pleasing Jesus. The Romanesque church boasts incredibly tall, 34m vaulted ceilings, the largest pipe organ in France, its fair share of stained glass, paintings by Rubens, and a silver sculpture dedicated to the victims of the AIDS epidemic.
Les Halles. Walk up Allée André Breton and turn left onto rue Rambuteau; the church is on the right. Audio tours available in English, ID required. Free. Audio tour suggested donation €3. Open M-F 9:30am-7pm, Sa 10am-7pm, Su 9am-7pm. Mass Sa 6pm; Su 9:30am, 11am, 6pm.
PALAIS-ROYAL
PALACE
8 rue de Montpensier
01 47 03 92 16
This palace has a history plagued with abandonment, debauchery, and low funding. Louis XIV lived here as a child before moving on to bigger and better digs at Versailles. Henrietta Maria, the wife of the deposed English king Charles I, called the palace home after being kicked out of her own country for being Catholic. (The French reaction to her showing up was apparently, “You’re Catholic? Move into this palace!”) In the 18th century, Louise Henrietta de Bourbon moved in, and the palace was the site of her numerous debaucheries and extramarital affairs—at least a palace is far classier than a motel room. Finally, in 1781, the broke Duke of Orléans had to rent out the space to raise money. Today, the palace is a government building and closed to the public, but you can still see the impressive façade facing the Louvre and visit the Cour d’Honneur and the inner courtyard, which contains artist Daniel Buren’s Les Colonnes de Buren. The gardens are nowhere near as nice as the nearby Tuileries, and the famous arcades are priced exclusively for window shopping.
Palais Royal-Musée du Louvre. Cour d’Honneur accessible from entrance on rue St-Honoré at the front of the palace. Free. Fountain, galleries, and garden open Jun-Aug daily 7am-11pm; Sept 7am-9:30pm; Oct-Mar 7:30am-8:30pm; Apr-May 7am-10:15pm.
The Marais
CENTRE POMPIDOU
MUSEUM, LIBRARY
pl. Georges Pompidou, rue Beaubourg
01 44 78 12 33
The exterior of the Pompidou is a crazed network of yellow electrical tubes, green water pipes, and blue ventilation ducts, leaving plenty of space inside for all the good stuff. The center’s functions are as varied as its colors; it serves as a cultural theme park of ultra-modern exhibition, performance, and research space. It is home to Europe’s largest modern art museum, Musée National d’Art Moderne, which occupies the fourth, fifth, and sixth floors with a collection of over 60,000 works dating from 1905. Be sure to check out Duchamp’s infamous Fountain, which is just a urinal that he signed “R. Mutt,” because, hey, it’s modern art. Temporary exhibits on international modern art fill the sixth floor. Other parts of the complex to explore include Salle Garance, which runs an adventurous film series; Bibliothèque Publique d’Information, a free library; Institut de la Recherche de la Coordination Acoustique/Musique (IRCAM), an institute and laboratory for the development of new technology; and the rooftop restaurant, Georges.
Rambuteau or Hôtel de Ville. From Rambuteau, walk down rue Beaubourg with the flow of traffic, turn right onto rue Rambuteau, then left at the plaza; the entrance is on the left. From Hôtel de Ville, walk up rue de Renard against the flow of traffic, turn left onto rue St-Merri, then right into the plaza; the entrance is on the right. Free Wi-Fi. Museum €13, under 26 €11, under 18 and EU citizens ages 18-25 free. 1st Su of the month free. Library and forum free. Center open M 11am-10pm, W-Su 11am-10pm. Museum open M 11am-9pm, W-Su 11am-9pm. Last tickets sold at 8pm. Library open M noon-10pm, W-F noon-10pm, Sa-Su 11am-10pm.
MUSÉE CARNAVALET
MUSEUM
23 rue de Sévigné
01 44 59 58 58
Located in Mme. de Sévigné’s beautiful, 16th-century hôtel particulier and the neighboring Hôtel Le Peletier de St-Fargeau, this meticulously arranged and engaging museum traces Paris’s history from its origins to Napoleon III. The history of Paris is long, and this museum is pretty large, so we recommend grabbing a map and taking your time as you stroll through ornate 18th-century apartments. The city’s urban development is conveyed through small-scale models, paintings (expect to see a lot of portraits), antique furniture, and sculptural fragments. Highlights include the famous The Tennis Court Oath, Marcel Proust’s fully reconstructed bedroom, and a piece of the Bastille prison wall. (We tried, but shouting “Vive la Revolution!” doesn’t entitle you to touch it.)
Chemin Vert. Take rue St-Gilles, which becomes rue du Parc Royal, and turn left onto rue de Sévigné. Free. Audio tour €5. Open Tu-Su 10am-6pm. Last entry 5:15pm.
MUSÉE DE LA CHASSE ET DE LA NATURE
MUSEUM
62 rue des Archives
01 53 01 92 40
Yes, yes, we all love animals, but please save your horror for PETA meetings. This eclectic museum isn’t just about bloodshed—it displays hunting-themed arts, weaponry, and stuffed animals that explore man’s relationship with nature through the history and practices of hunting. The museum’s interior is reminiscent of the sumptuous living rooms in a hunting lodge and contains a variety of cabinets for animals like the owls, boars, and stags, with drawers you can pull out to see their droppings. By far the most impressive room is the Trophy Room, with a stuffed polar bear on its hind legs, cheetahs in a glass case, heads of a rhinoceros, lion, tiger, moose, deer, boars, etc.
Rambuteau. Walk against traffic on rue Beaubourg, turn right onto rue Michel le Comte, then left onto rue des Archives €6, ages 18-25 and seniors €4.50, under 18 free. 1st Su of each month free. Open Tu-Su 11am-6pm.
PLACE DES VOSGES
PARK
Paris’s oldest and perhaps snootiest public square has served many generations of residents, from the knights who clashed swords in medieval tournaments to the hipsters who tan and swap bottles during picnics today. All 36 buildings that line the square were constructed by Baptiste du Cerceau in the same architectural style; look for pink brick, slate roofs, and street-level arcades. The quaint atmosphere attracted Cardinal Richelieu (who lived at no. 21 when he wasn’t busy mad-dogging musketeers), writer Alphonse Daudet (who lived at no. 8), and Victor Hugo (no. 6). It was also the venue for one of seven-year-old prodigy Mozart’s concerts, inspiring every “My Child is an Honor Student” bumper sticker that has been printed since. Come here to people watch, sunbathe, nap in the grass, and wish you were friends with Molière or Voltaire.
St-Paul or Bastille. Follow rue St-Antoine and turn onto rue de Birague. Free Wi-Fi.
MAISON DE VICTOR HUGO
MUSEUM
6 pl. des Vosges
01 42 72 10 16
Dedicated to the father of French Romanticism and housed in the building where he lived from 1832 to 1848, this museum displays memorabilia from his pre-exile, exile, and post-exile days, including his family’s little-known paintings and the desk where he wrote standing up. On the first floor, the collection reveals paintings of scenes from Les Misérables and other works. On your way up, don’t miss the caricatures of good ol’ Hugo by André Gill. Upstairs, you’ll find Hugo’s apartments, a recreation of the bedroom where he died, and the chambre chinoise, which reveals his flamboyant interior decorating skills and just how romantic he really was.
St-Paul or Bastille. Follow rue St-Antoine and turn onto rue de Birague. Free. Special exhibit €5, students and under 26 €2.50. Audio tour €5. Open Tu-Su 10am-6pm. Last entry 5:40pm.
GALERIE THUILLIER
GALLERY
13 rue de Thorigny
01 42 77 33 23
One of Paris’s most active galleries, Galerie Thullier has exhibits that rotate every two weeks, which means that there’s always something new to see when you visit. The art displayed here ranges across all styles, and the gallery exhibits a number of different artists at any given time. Although there is no real permanent exhibit, some artists have close relationships with the gallery and show their work here as often as possible.
St-Sébastien-Froissart. Walk down rue du Pont aux Choux and turn left onto rue de Turenne, then right onto rue de Thorigny. Open Tu-Sa 1-7pm.
Latin Quarter and St-Germain
PANTHÉON
HISTORICAL MONUMENT, CRYPT
pl. du Panthéon
01 44 32 18 04
http://pantheon.monuments-nationaux.fr
If there’s one building that doesn’t know the meaning of antidisestablishmentarianism, it’s the Panthéon. Because the Neoclassical building went back and forth between a church and a “secular mausoleum” over the years, it contains some surprising eternal residents. Within the crypt, tombs alternate between Christian heroes, such as St. Louis, and Enlightenment thinkers like Voltaire, Rousseau, and Descartes (who would probably object to being placed so close to icons of church dogma). What’s worse, both Foucault’s pendulum and revolutionary statues lie above the remains of Joan of Arc and Ste. Geneviève. Other famous graves include those of Victor Hugo, Émile Zola, and Marie Curie, the only female resident. The trip up the dome has three stops, with 360-degree views of the Marais and the Latin Quarter, and you can meander the colonnade at the top for the allotted 10min. before being herded back down.
Cardinal Lemoine. Head away from the river on rue du Cardinal Lemoine and turn right onto rue Clovis. Walk until you reach pl. du Panthéon. Dome visits Apr-Oct in Dutch, English, French, German, Russian, and Spanish. €7.50, ages 18-25 €4.50, under 18 and EU citizens under 26 free. Open daily Apr-Sept 10am-6:30pm, Oct-Mar 10am-6pm. Last entry 45min. before close.
LE JARDIN DU LUXEMBOURG
GARDEN
Main entrance on bd St-Michel
01 42 34 23 62
As with most ornate things in Paris, these gardens and the Palais du Luxembourg used to be exclusively for royalty until the revolutions began in 1789. Today, the park is a favorite among Parisians, who love to hole up with a book on a bench by the apple orchards or snag a colorful aluminum chair and bask in the sun during their lunch break. Children run around this park like they own it, and with a carousel, numerous playgrounds, and 1920s wooden sailboats by the Grand Bassin Pond, the kiddos are definitely getting the most out of it. Don’t get too excited about picnicking, though—perfectly manicured lawns like these are off-limits, and the one patch of grass that is open is unsurprisingly crowded. The Palais, which now houses the Sénat, is still off-limits, but the best and most sought-after spot in the garden is the Fontaine des Médicis, a vine-covered grotto east of the Palais that features a murky fish pond and Baroque fountain sculptures.
Odéon or RER B: Luxembourg. Guided tours in French Apr-Oct 1st W of each month 9:30am. Tours start at pl. André Honorat behind the observatory. Free. Open daily in summer 7:30am-1hr. before sunset; in winter 8am-1hr. before sunset.
SHAKESPEARE AND CO. BOOKSTORE
BOOKSTORE
37 rue de la Bûcherie
01 43 25 40 93
Sylvia Beach’s original Shakespeare and Co. at 8 rue Dupuytren (later at 12 rue de l’Odéon) is legendary among Parisian Anglophones and American literature nerds alike. An alcoholic crew of expat writers gathered here in the ’20s, and Hemingway described the bookstore in A Moveable Feast. After closing during World War II, George Whitman—no relation to Walt—opened the current ragtag bookstore on the shores of the Seine in 1951, dubbing it “a socialist utopia masquerading as a bookstore.” This certainly isn’t your run-of-the-mill, money-making Barnes&Noble; they’re in it for the love of the game at Shakespeare and Co. Grab a book off the shelves and head to the quiet library overlooking the Seine on the second floor.
St-Michel. Take quai de Montebello toward Notre Dame and turn right onto rue St-Jacques. Rue de la Bûcherie is on the left. Open M-F 10am-11pm, Sa-Su 11am-11pm.
MUSÉE ZADKINE
MUSEUM
100B rue d’Assas
01 55 42 77 20
Installed in the former house and studio of Russian sculptor Ossip Zadkine (1890-1967), this pleasantly tourist-free museum houses a terrific collection of his extensive work in a minimalist, modern setting of clean-cut white walls. While most artists tend to stick to one area, Zadkine worked in 12 different styles, from Primitivism to Neoclassicism to Cubism, and the museum’s collection includes all of his creative periods. Visitors can pore over his classical masterpiece, L’hommage à Apollinaire, then immerse themselves in his more modern and strikingly disembodied Le Torse de la Ville Détruite. The tiny forested garden, realized by landscape painter Gilles Clément, is a welcome retreat from the busier northern part of the 6ème. Don’t forget to indulge in a free cup of hot tea, served in a bamboo cup on your way out.
Vavin. At the intersection, turn left onto rue de la Grande Chaumière, then right onto rue Notre-Dame des Champs. Turn left onto rue Joseph Bara, then left onto rue d’Assas. Guided tours available by reservation. Permanent exhibit free; temporary exhibits vary. Open daily 10am-6pm.
ARÈNES DE LUTÈCE
PARK, HISTORIC MONUMENT
49 rue Monge
01 45 35 02 56
Back in the days of the Romans in the first and second centuries, this amphitheater was used for spectacles like gladiator battles and animal fights attended by as many as 15,000 people. Tamer audiences came for the plays and comedies, but we bet the place only really filled up for the bloodbaths. In the 13th century, the amphitheater, long out of use, was completely filled in and remained undiscovered until 1869. Today, the seating around the amphitheater has been restored and opened to the public. Occasionally, there are summertime performances that feature music, comedy, theater, and dance, but this circular sandpit is generally used for pick-up soccer games and various other forms of public folly (some things never change). Around the amphitheater are some small walking paths and dense foliage that provides some much-needed shade during the hot summer.
Place Monge. At the intersection of rue de Navarre and rue des Arènes; the Métro stop is beneath it. Occasionally hosts outdoor performances. Closing times vary during the year, open M-F 8am, Sa-Su 9am. Open May-Aug M-F 8am-9:30pm, Sa-Su 9am-9:30pm.
Invalides
EIFFEL TOWER
TOWER
Champs de Mars
08 92 70 12 39
At 324m—just a tad shorter than New York City’s Chrysler Building—the tower is a tremendous feat of design and engineering, though wind does cause it to occasionally sway 6 to 7cm (nobody’s perfect). The lines are unsurprisingly long, but the unparalleled view from the top floor deserves a visit. The cheapest way to ascend the tower is by burning off those pain au chocolat calories on the world’s most iconic Stairmaster, although the third floor is only accessible by elevator. Waiting until nightfall to make your ascent cuts down the line and ups the glamour; buying your ticket online can also save you hours—we mean that literally. At the top, captioned aerial photographs help you locate other famous landmarks; on a clear day it is possible to see Chartres, 88km away. From dusk until 2am (Sept-May 1am) the tower sparkles with light for 10min. on the hour.
Bir-Hakeim, Trocadéro, or École Militaire. From Bir-Hakeim, walk toward the Seine, turn right onto quai de Grenelle, and the Eiffel Tower is on the right. From École Militaire, walk up av. de la Bourdonnais against traffic. Elevator to 2nd fl. €8.50, ages 12-24 €7, ages 4-11 and handicapped €4, under 4 free; elevator to top €14.50/13/10/free; stair entrance to 2nd fl. €5/3.50/3/free. Buy your ticket online and pick your time to climb in order to cut down the wait. Elevator open daily Jun 15-Sept 1 9am-12:45am; rest of year 9:30am-11:45pm. Last entry 45min. before close. Stairs open daily Jun 15-Sept 1 9am-12:45am, last entry midnight; rest of year 9:30am-6:30pm, last entry 6pm.
MUSÉE D’ORSAY
MUSEUM
1 Rue de la Légion d’Honneur
01 40 49 48 14
Aesthetic taste is fickle. When a handful of artists were rejected from the Louvre salon in the 19th century, they opened an exhibition across the way, prompting both the scorn of stick-up-their-arses académiciens and the rise of Impressionism. Today, people line up at the Musée d’Orsay to see this collection of groundbreaking rejects. Originally a train station, the museum is fairly large and is best seen over several visits so you don’t become art-ed out. The first and second floors contain pre-Impressionist works and lesser-known artists, with all the big names and famous works of Impressionist and Post-Impressionist art on the more crowded top floor. Everything at the museum is practically a must see, but if you’re really crunched for time, limit yourself to Van Gogh’s portraits and Starry Night, Degas’s ballerinas, Cézanne’s Apples and Oranges and other still lifes, and Seurat and Signac’s Pointillism. Avoid the long lines by buying a ticket beforehand and hopping over to Entrance C.
Solférino. Access at entrance A off the square at 1 rue de la Légion d’Honneur. €9, ages 18-25 €6.50, under 18 and EU citizens 18-26 free, joint ticket with Musée Rodin €15. Open Tu-W 9:30am-6pm, Th 9:30am-9:45pm, F-Su 9:30am-6pm. Visitors asked to leave 30min. before close.
MUSÉE DE L’ARMÉE
MUSEUM
129 rue de Grenelle
08 10 11 33 99
Americans in favor of the Second Amendment, European empire enthusiasts, and war buffs will all find a visit to the Musée de l’Armée a surefire good time. Housed inside the grand Hôtel des Invalides and built by Louis XIV for his war veterans, the museum is comprised of six main parts. The impressive Église du Dôme is the most recognizable part of the museum and holds the tomb of Napoleon surrounded by sculptures and inscriptions celebrating our favorite petit emperor. The dome and the Saint-Louis des Invalides chapel are flanked by the Charles de Gaulle historical exhibit and collections covering Louis XIV to Napoleon III in the East Wing and the fantastic World War I and World War II exhibit and ancient armor and arms collections in the West Wing. Even for those who aren’t crazy about ordnance will find something fascinating here. Whether it’s the shiny street taxi used to shuttle soldiers in WWI, animated maps of major battles and conquests, or the collection of armor for children (both terrifying and strangely cute), the museum covers quite a bit of ground.
Invalides or La Tour-Maubourg. The museum is located in the center of the park. Admission to all museum €9.50, students under 26 €7.50, EU citizens and under 18 free; €7.50 after 5pm in the summer, after 4pm in the winter, and late on Tu. Temporary exhibits €8.50; entrance to both permanent and temporary €12. Audio tour €6, under 26 €4. Open daily Apr-Oct 10am-6pm; Nov-Mar 10am-5pm. Dome Church and Modern Department are open Apr-Sept until 9pm; Jul-Aug until 7pm. Except Jul-Sept, 1st M of every month only Dome Church and artillery trail are open. Charles de Gaulle Monument closed every M.
MUSÉE RODIN
MUSEUM
79 rue de Varenne
01 44 18 61 10
After Auguste Rodin (1840-1917) was rejected by the most prestigious art school in Paris, he rejected the idealized styles and themes in sculpture to create works of vivid realism. Living well is the best revenge—today the art world considers him the father of modern sculpture. This museum houses three of Rodin’s most famous sculptures, Le Penseur (The Thinker), La Porte de L’Enfer, and Le Baiser. For one of the best photo ops of all time, strike a pose like Le Penseur contemplating Le Penseur—so meta. Meanwhile, The Gates of Hell is a bronze mess of lustful pairs swirling in the violent turbulence of the second ring of Hell from Dante’s Divine Comedy. Rodin’s lesser-known sculptures are inside the Hôtel Biron, the 18th-century building where he lived and worked.
Varenne. Temporary exhibits housed in the chapel, to the right as you enter. Museum €9, ages 18-25 €5, under 18 and EU citizens under 26 free; garden €1/1/free; joint ticket with Musee d’Orsay €15. 1st Su of the month free. Audio tours in 6 languages €4 each for permanent and temporary exhibits, combined ticket €6. Open Tu-Su 10am-5:45pm, last entry 5:15pm.
CHAMPS DE MARS
PARK
Lined with more lovers than trees, the expansive lawn that stretches from the École Militaire to the Eiffel Tower is called the Champs de Mars (Field of Mars). Close to the neighborhood’s military monuments and museums, it has historically lived up to the Roman god of war for whom it was named. The open field has been used for military boot camp and as a convenient place for violent demonstrations, including but not limited to a slew of civilian massacres during the Revolution. At the end of the Champs de Mars, toward the Military School, is the “Wall of Peace,” a glass structure that has 32 languages’ worth of the word “peace” inscribed on its walls in an attempt to make up for the field’s bloody past. For a picnic with a view, head over to rue Cler to buy some baguettes and charcuterie from the open-air markets as you watch the sun set behind the Eiffel Tower.
La Motte Picquet-Grenelle or École Militaire.
MUSÉE DE LÉGION D’HONNEUR
MUSEUM
2 rue de la Légion-d’Honneur
01 40 62 84 25
This museum is worth a brief (and free) visit when you’re all art-ed out by the Musée d’Orsay across the street. It showcases France’s highest honors, decorations, and orders—in other words, there are some very ornate pendants, medallions, and insignias on display here. The most famous and prestigious items here are the royal collars of the Legion of Honor, a national order established in 1802 by Napoleon, who understood the importance of shiny objects when he famously declared, “It is with such baubles that men are led.” Other must-sees here are the foreign orders from countries such as Madagascar to Japan and the enormous black velvet royal capes.
RER Musée d’Orsay or Solférino. Across the street from Musée d’Orsay. Handicapped entrance at 1 rue de Solférino. Free entrance and audio tour. Open W-Su 1-6pm.
MUSÉE MAILLOL
MUSEUM
61 rue de Grenelle
01 42 22 59 58
The museum was founded by Aristide Maillol’s muse, Dina Vierny, who was 15 when she met the French sculptor. Unlike Georgia O’Keefe’s ambiguous “lady” flower images, the work of Maillol is pretty straightforward. Nude sculptures and paintings form the backbone of this museum’s permanent collection on the upper levels, although the first and second floors are dominated by detailed and well-curated temporary exhibits that range from art from Pompeii to work by Murano glass makers.
Rue du Bac. Walk down rue de Bac along the flow of traffic and turn left onto rue de Grenelle. The museum is on the right €11; ages 11-25, unemployed, and handicapped €9; under 11 free. Audio tour €5. Open daily 10:30am-7pm, last entry 45min. before close.
MUSÉE DU QUAI BRANLY
MUSEUM
37 quai Branly
01 56 61 70 00
Museums can get old real quick, but before you can even think about how tired your feet are, this time machine/museum of natural history will shower you with its theatricality—every which way you turn will be a new video about Indian shadow puppets, a collection of wooden Polynesian ancestral poles, or a group of noisy school children (no, they’re not on display, but they’re essentially permanent fixtures here). The museum doesn’t have any rooms, which creates some rather abrupt transitions from the four organized regions (Africa, Asia, the Americas, and Oceania). In case you can’t tell the difference between a Nepalese tunic and an African one, look at the floor: the color under your feet corresponds to what section of the world you are in. Be sure to sit in one of the many hidden sound caves to take in some tribal noises in solitude, but beware of local high school students using the dark spaces as personal make-out rooms.
Alma-Marceau. Cross Pont de l’Alma and follow quai Branly toward the Eiffel Tower. €8.50, under 18 and EU citizens 18-25 free. Temporary exhibit €7. Joint ticket €10. Audio tour €5. Open Tu-W 11am-7pm, Th-Sa 11am-9pm, Su 11am-7pm.
ARC DE TRIOMPHE
HISTORIC MONUMENT
pl. Charles de Gaulle-Étoile
www.arc-de-triomphe.monuments-nationaux.fr
Probably the second most iconic structure in the whole city, the Arc de Triomphe dominates the Champs-Élysées and remains strikingly powerful even when viewed from a distance. The original architect imagined an unparalleled tribute to France’s military prowess in the form of a giant, bejeweled elephant. Fortunately, Napoleon had the more restrained idea of building an arch. You could probably pull together an exhibition of French history since the arch’s 1836 completion based purely on photos of the Arc’s use in ceremonial celebrations. It stands both as a tribute to French military triumphs and as a memorial to those who have fallen in battle. The Tomb of the Unknown Soldier, added in 1920, lies under the arch. Every day at 6:30pm, the tomb’s eternal flame is re-lit in a ceremony. The Arc is spectacular to look at, and it returns the favor by being spectacular to look from. The observation deck offers a brilliant view of the Historic Axis, which stretches from the Louvre to the Grande Arche de la Défense.
Charles de Gaulle-l’Étoile. You will die (and face a hefty fine) if you try to dodge the 10-lane merry-go-round of cars around the arch, so use the pedestrian underpass on the right side of the Champs-Élysées, facing the arch. Expect long waits, although you can escape the crowds if you go before noon. Buy tickets in the pedestrian underpass. €9.50, ages 18-25 €6, under 18 and EU citizens 18-25 free. Open daily Apr-Sept 10am-11pm; Oct-Mar 10am-10:30pm. Last entry 45min. before close.
PINACOTHÈQUE
MUSEUM
28 pl. de la Madeleine
01 42 68 02 01
A young contender in Paris’s competitive museum scene, Pinacothèque has held its own since it opened in 2007. When director Marc Restellini, a little-known art scholar not backed by any large foundation, decided to open up his own museum, the museum world refused to take him seriously. To their great surprise (and chagrin), temporary exhibits on Edvard Munch, Jackson Pollock, and the terracotta warriors from China drew round-the-block visitors. Unbeholden to any higher powers, this museum runs entirely on gift shop and ticket sales, so it can afford to be a little more experimental in its exhibitions—the permanent collection contains startling juxtapositions, with works by Picasso next to pieces by 17th-century Dutch painter Frans Hals next to one of Warhol’s stereographs of Marilyn Monroe. The permanent collection is worth a visit, although the stars here are the more extensive temporary exhibits.
Madeleine. Facing the front of the church, turn around to the right, and the ticket office is located on the corner of rue Vignon and rue de Sèze. Audio tours available for download online. Permanent collection €8, ages 12-25 and students €6, under 12 free; temporary collections €12/10; combined tickets €18-22. Open M-Tu 10:30am-6:30pm, W 10:30am-9pm, Th 10:30am-6:30pm, F 10:30am-9pm, Sa-Su 10:30am-6:30pm. Last entry 45min. before close.
AVENUE DES CHAMPS-ÉLYSÉES
SHOPPING DISTRICT
From pl. Charles de Gaulle-Étoile to pl. de la Concorde
There’s a reason we included it here and not in Shopping—you can’t afford it. The Champs-Élysées seems to be a magnificent celebration of the elite’s pomp and fortuitous circumstance, but it’s mostly filled with flashy cars, expensive cafes packed with rich foreigners, and kitschy shops. On the plus side, it does offer some of the best people watching in Europe. The avenue also hosts most major French events: on Bastille Day, the largest parade in Europe takes place here, as does the final stretch of the Tour de France. Huge national celebrations, like FIFA World Cup championships and political demonstrations, also love to clog up this commercial artery. While the Champs itself may be deteriorating in class (with the invasion of chain stores), many of its side streets, like Avenue Montaigne, have picked up the slack and ooze sophistication.
Charles de Gaulle-l’Étoile, George V, Franklin D. Roosevelt, or Champs-Élysées-Clemenceau stops all along the avenue.
PLACE DE LA CONCORDE
PLAZA
pl. de la Concorde
Constructed by Louis XV in honor of himself, the Place de la Concorde quickly became ground zero for all public grievances against the monarchy. During the Reign of Terror, the complex of buildings was renamed Place de la Révolution, and 1343 aristocrats were guillotined here in less than the span of one year. Louis XVI met his end near the statue that symbolizes the French town of Brest, and the obelisk marks the spot where Marie Antoinette, Charlotte Corday (Marat’s assassin), Lavoisier, Danton, and Robespierre lost their heads. Flanking either side of Concorde’s intersection with the wide Champs-Élysées are reproductions of Guillaume Coustou’s Chevaux de Marly; also known as Africans Mastering the Numidian Horses, the original sculptures are now in the Louvre to protect them from pollution. At night, the Concorde’s dynamic ambiance begins to soften, and the obelisk, fountains, and lamps are dramatically illuminated. On Bastille Day, a military parade led by the President of the Republic marches through the Concorde (usually around 10am) and down the Champs-Élysées to the Arc de Triomphe, and an impressive fireworks display lights up the sky over the plaza at night. At the end of July, the Tour de France finalists pull through the Concorde and into the home stretch on the Champs-Élysées. Tourists be warned: between the Concorde’s monumental scale, lack of crosswalks, and heavy traffic, crossing the street here is impossible at best and fatal at worst. Unless you want to see the obelisk up close, it’s best to admire it from afar and then circle around the plaza to get to Madeleine or the Champs-Élysées, rather than cross the plaza directly.
Concorde.
OBÉLISQUE DE LUXOR
HISTORIC MONUMENT
pl. de la Concorde
In the center of Paris’s largest and most infamous public square, the 3300-year-old Obélisque de Luxor stands at a monumental 72ft. The spot was originally occupied by a statue of Louis XV (after whom the square was originally named) that was destroyed in 1748 by an angry mob. King Louis-Philippe, anxious to avoid revolutionary rancor, opted for a less contentious symbol: the 220-ton, red granite, hieroglyphic-covered obelisk presented to Charles X from the Viceroy of Egypt in 1829. The obelisk, which dates back to the 13th century BCE, recalls the royal accomplishments of Ramses II and wasn’t erected until 1836. Today, it forms the axis of what many refer to as the “royal perspective”—a spectacular view of Paris from the Louvre, in which the Place de la Concorde, the Arc de Triomphe, and the Grande Arche de la Défense appear to form a straight line through the center of the city. The view serves as a physical timeline of Paris’s history, from the reign of Louis XIV all the way to the celebration of modern commerce.
Concorde.
GRAND PALAIS
PALACE
3 av. du Général Eisenhower
01 44 13 17 17
Designed for the 1900 World’s Fair, the Grand Palais and the accompanying Petit Palais across the street were lauded as exemplary works of Art Nouveau architecture. Today, the Grand Palais is used as a concert venue and an exhibition space for wildly popular temporary installations on artists such as Klimt and Monet. It is also well known as the annual host of Chanel’s elaborate fashion shows. For the temporary exhibits, it’s best to buy a ticket in advance and skip the lines. Otherwise, most of the building’s beauty can be admired outside for free, especially at night, when the 6000 metric ton glass ceiling glows, lighting up the French flag that flies above it.
Champs-Élysées-Clemenceau. Prices vary depending on exhibitions. €8-16, ages 18-26 €6-10. Hours vary widely based on the exhibition. Closed Tu.
Bastille
VIADUC DES ARTS AND PROMENADE PLANTÉE
PARK, SHOPPING STRIP
10 cour du Marché Saint-Antoine
01 44 75 80 66
http://www.leviaducdesarts.com
An oft-overlooked sight, the elevated Promenade Plantée runs along the old Vincennes railway line and was the inspiration for New York City’s High Line. The 4.5km pathway and its fragrant flowers make for a terrific afternoon stroll, or at least a greener alternative to the busy streets below. If you’re short on time, the Jardin de Reuilly is a much larger, beautiful place for a picnic before you have to scramble back down to the concrete streets when the sun sets. Below the Promenade on av. Daumesnil, Paris’s contemporary artists occupy the shops under the heavy archways of the Viaduc des Arts. You can find everything from flashy haute couture to workshops that use leather, wood, copper, and glass to create trendy art collections that scream, “Look at me! I’m artistic!” from the windows.
Bastille. Promenade runs from the Bois de Vincennes to the rue de Lyon. The Viaduc des Arts runs along av. Daumesnil from rue de Lyon to rue de Charenton. Entrances to the Promenade are at Ledru Rollin, Hector Malot, and bd Diderot. Park opens M-F 8am, Sa-Su 9am. Closing hours vary, around 5:45pm in winter, 9:30pm in summer. Stores open M-Sa; hours vary, with many taking a 2hr. lunch break at noon.
BASTILLE PRISON
HISTORIC SITE
Visitors to the prison subsist on symbolic value alone—it’s one of the most popular sights in Paris that doesn’t actually exist. On July 14, 1789, an angry Parisian mob stormed this bastion of royal tyranny, sparking the French Revolution. They only liberated seven prisoners, but who’s counting? Two days later, the Assemblée Nationale ordered the prison to be demolished. Today, all that remains is the fortress’s ground plan, still visible as a line of paving stones in the pl. de la Bastille. But it was hardly the hell hole that the Revolutionaries who tore it down imagined it to be. Bastille’s elite inmates were allowed to furnish their suites, use fresh linens, bring their own servants, and receive guests; the Cardinal de Rohan famously held a dinner party for 20 in his cell. Notable prisoners included the Man in the Iron Mask (made famous by writer Alexandre Dumas), the Comte de Mirabeau, Voltaire (twice), and the Marquis de Sade. The anniversary of the storming is celebrated every year on July 14 and (much like a certain celebration 10 days earlier across the Atlantic) is a time of glorious fireworks and copious amounts of alcohol, with festivities concentrated around pl. de la Bastille (but note that the fireworks are over the Eiffel Tower).
Bastille.
MALHIA KENT
FASHION
19 av. Daumesnil
01 41 92 88 88
Fulfilling every Project Runway fantasy, this workshop gives an up-close, behind-the-scenes look at fashion. High-end fabrics made out of colorful threads of glitter, lace, and feathers will delight any aspiring seamstress, but for those who don’t know how to make it work with a sewing machine, there’s not much to see other than a ton of really expensive, shiny pieces of cloth. Maybe they would make fancy, albeit rough, hand towels? Or place mats?
Bastille. In the Viaduc des Arts. Items usually run from €75-300. Open Tu-F 10am-7pm, Sa 11am-7pm.
Montparnasse and Southern Paris
CATACOMBS
HISTORIC LANDMARK
1 av. du Colonel Henri Roi-Tanguy
01 43 22 47 63
The Catacombs were the original site of Paris’s quarries, but they were converted into an ossuary in 1785 to help alleviate the stench rising from overcrowded cemeteries—somehow, burying six million people at once seemed like a better idea. Not for the claustrophobic or faint of heart, this 45min. excursion leads visitors down a winding spiral staircase to a welcoming sign: “Stop! Here is the Empire of Death.” Stacks of skulls and femurs line the walls, with the highlight being the barrel-shaped arrangement of skulls and shinbones. Try to arrive before the opening at 10am; hordes of tourists form extremely long lines hoping to escape the pressing sun. The visitors’ passage is well marked, so don’t worry about getting lost. Try trailing behind the group a little for the ultimate creepy experience—you won’t be disappointed.
Denfert Rochereau. Cross av. du Colonel Henri Roi-Tanguy with the lion on the left. Audio tour €3. €8, over 60 €6, ages 14-26 €4, under 14 free. Open Tu-Su 10am-5pm. Last entry 4pm.
TOUR MONTPARNASSE
TOWER
33 av. du Maine
01 45 38 52 56
Everyone loves a great panorama of Paris, but the perennial problem is that no matter how many stairs your climb or elevators you take, you can’t see the landmark you’re standing on. Tour Montparnasse solves this problem with a 196m vantage point over the city and a terrific view of nearly all of Paris’s famous landmarks, all without forcing you to see the stark and monolithic tower itself. The elevator is allegedly the fastest in Europe (moving at 19ft. per second—not a lot of time to clear the pressure in your ears) and spits you out at a mandatory photo line on the 56th floor. After being shoved in front of a fake city skyline and forced to smile for a picture that you probably don’t want, you’re finally allowed up to the 59th floor to take in the beauty and meticulous planning of Paris’s historic streets. Thankfully, the city ruled that similar eyesores could not be constructed in Paris’s downtown shortly after this one was built.
Montparnasse-Bienvenue. Entrance on rue de l’Arrivée. €13.50, students and under 20 €7, under 15 €8, under 7 free. Open Apr-Sept daily 9:30am-11:30pm, Oct-Mar M-Th 9:30am-10:30pm, F-Sa 9:30am-11pm, Su 9:30am-10:30pm. Last entry 30min. before close.
MÉMORIAL DE LA LIBÉRATION DE PARIS
MEMORIAL, MUSEUM
23 allée de la 2ème DB, Jardin Atlantique
01 40 64 39 44
www.ml-leclerc-moulin.paris.fr
Opened in 1994 for the 50th anniversary of the liberation of Paris from Nazi control, this memorial is composed of the Mémorial du Maréchal LeClerc and the Musée Jean Moulin, named for two celebrated World War II heroes. French hero Jean Moulin organized and unified the French resistance before his arrest, interrogation, and death under the Gestapo. The whole memorial is located above the SNCF station, where LeClerc set up his command post in 1944, and in the neighborhood where Moulin lived under the artist guise Romanin prior to his military success. The two galleries are symbolically connected by the Liberation Gallery, which is meant to represent the remarkable unification of resistance forces to fight the Nazi regime and liberate France. The galleries contain an impressive array of 13 screens that play a harrowing series of video footage chronicling the tragedies and victories Paris experienced over the course of Nazi occupation and liberation.
Montparnasse-Bienvenue. Follow signs for the Memorial Leclerc from the Métro stop to the Memorial; the museum is on top of the SNCF terminal. Permanent collection free. Audio tour €5. Rotating exhibits vary, usually €5, ages 14-26 €2. Open Tu-Su 10am-6pm.
PALAIS DE TOKYO
MUSEUM
13 av. du President Wilson
01 81 97 35 88
The Palais de Tokyo rejects the label “museum,” and prefers to call itself a site “devoted to contemporary creativity.” The artistic creations of future Duchamps, Basquiats, and Harings are featured here in all forms imaginable, from paintings and sculpture to projections, videos, dance, and fashion. If the world of art, with all of its hallowed names and iconic images, seems a bit stuffy and staid to you, you’ll be glad to know that very little at this site is permanent—exhibitions are only up for a few months. Although the stuff here may seem ridiculous and esoteric (someone explain to us how trapezoids count as modern art), the museum’s unpretentious attitude toward art and its anti-museum stance make it a liberating and surprisingly personal visit.
Iena €10, under 26 and seniors €8, under 18 free. When there are no exhibits, the Palais is open for free. Open M noon-midnight, W-Su noon-midnight. We told you this wasn’t your typical museum.
PALAIS DE CHAILLOT
MUSEUMS, HISTORIC BUILDING
1 pl. du Trocadéro
01 58 51 52 00
To prep for the 1937 World’s Fair, the French government tore down the old Palais du Trocadéro and built the current Palais de Chaillot. With its stellar view of the Eiffel Tower from across the Pont d’Iéna, the Palais has attracted its share of visitors, from Adolf Hitler to the UN General Assembly (to make up for the former). In 1948 they adopted the Universal Declaration of Human Rights at the Palais, and today the wide esplanade between the two wings is known as the “Esplanade of Human Rights.” On either side of the esplanade are the arching wings of the Palais. The southern wing houses the Musée National de la Marine (The National Navy Museum) and the Musée de l’Homme (Museum of Man). The eastern wing contains the Cité de l’Architecture and Thêatre National de Chaillot. For those who don’t want to pay to enter the museums, the esplanade and the view are free, although the food stands nearby are not.
Open M 11am-6pm, W-F 11am-6pm, Sa-Su 11am-7pm. Musée de l’Homme closed for renovations until 2015.
MUSÉE D’ART MODERNE DE LA VILLE DE PARIS
MUSEUM
11 av. du President Wilson
01 53 67 40 00
If the Centre Pompidou is too high a price to pay for modern art, the free permanent collection at this museum features works by major figures like Picasso, Duchamp, and Matisse and is every bit as wonky. The highlight of this museum is usually the well-attended and excellent temporary exhibitions. Most recently, the museum did a retrospective on Keith Haring with a focus on his political artwork, which is essentially all of his work. During the summer, the museum cafe opens up to a gorgeous terrace with a river view.
Iéna. Cross the street to av. du President Wilson and walk with the Seine to your right. Permanent collection free. Temporary exhibits €10, students €5. Permanent collection open Tu-Su 10am-6pm. Last entry 5:45pm. Special exhibits open Tu-W 10am-6pm, Th 10am-10pm, F-Su 10am-6pm.
LA GRANDE ARCHE DE LA DEFENSE
MONUMENT
1 parvis de la Défense
01 49 07 27 55
When French President François Mitterand created an international design competition for Paris’s newest monument, those who entered the artistic fray faced some intimidating predecessors—who wanted to compete with Gustave Eiffel? Danish architect Johan Otto Von Spreckelsen took the plunge in 1983 and submitted his design for an arch that matches the glassy skyscrapers of this ultramodern business district and has become one of Paris’s defining monuments. Made of 300,000 tons of white marble and standing taller than the Notre Dame, the arch was inaugurated on July 14, 1989, on the bicentennial of the French Revolution. It lies on the same boulevard as the Arc de Triomphe, and on a clear day, you can take the stairs to the top and see the Louvre. Since 2010, however, the elevator to the roof has been shut down, along with the museums that were located on the roof. The stairs remain open, and the plaza still offers a great view of the boulevard and the Arc de Triomphe in the distance.
La Défense.
MUSÉE MARMOTTAN MONET
MUSEUM
2 rue Louis-Boilly
01 44 96 50 33
For those who want some breathing room while appreciating Impressionist art—kisses to the Musée d’Orsay, but the Musée Marmottan Monet is free from crowds and filled with over 100 Impressionist and Post-Impressionist paintings, from Claude Monet’s Water Lilies and other pieces from his personal collection. If you tire of Manet, Degas, or Gauguin, you can admire the grandiose collection of Napoleonic furniture (including Napoleon’s bed, which is unsurprisingly petit). Be sure to pay a visit to the exhibit on illuminated manuscripts and medieval artwork, which is surprisingly captivating—this is probably the closest you’ll ever get to stained glass from a 13th-century cathedral.
La Muette. Walk with traffic on av. Mozart, turn left onto Chaussée de la Muette, walk through the Jardin de Ranelagh on av. Jardin de Ranelagh, turn right onto av. Raphael, then left onto rue Louis-Boilly; the museum is on the right. €10, under 18 and students under 26 €5. Audio guides €3. Open Tu-W 10am-6pm, Th 10am-8pm, F-Su 10am-6pm. Last entry 30min. before close.
MUSÉE GALLIERA
MUSEUM
10 av. Pierre 1er de Serbie
01 56 52 86 00
There’s no denying it—the French dress to impress. This museum elegantly displays the history of fashion from the 18th to the 20th century. With 30,000 outfits, 70,000 accessories, and not much space in which to display them, the museum organizes its exhibits by century and rotates them more swiftly than a Lady Gaga costume change.
Iéna. Walk down av. Pierre 1er de Serbice. Entrance is on the right side of the street. Entrance on pl. Rochambeau. €7, students and seniors €5.50. Open Tu-Su 10am-6pm. Last entry 5:30pm.
MUSÉE DU VIN
MUSEUM
5 sq Charles Dickens
01 45 25 63 26
A wine museum in Paris has so much potential, but you would need to pregame the Musée du Vin to make it interesting. The museum is located in the underground tunnels of limestone quarries and contains various displays of many highly technical tools such as “bunghole openers” and “tasting pliers,” with confusing and terse explanations of their functions. The creepily lifelike figures in the museum don’t help much with the explanation of the winemaking process, and the bulletins are almost completely in French. At the end of your tour of the museum, there is a tasting of a glass of rosé, white, or red wine—but for €12, you may be better off just buying a bottle elsewhere.
Passy. Go down the stairs, turn right onto pl. Albioni, then right onto rue des Eaux; the museum is tucked away at the end of the street. Self-guided tour and 1 glass of wine €12; students, seniors, and visitors with disabilities €10. Open Tu-Su 10am-6pm.
STATUE OF LIBERTY
STATUE
Pont de Grenelle
Most things in Paris are done with flourish and a sense of grandeur—this, however, is more of an afterthought. Not even 40ft. tall, this replica of France’s famous gift to the US is not worth your precious time. But you know what is? The man-made island it sits on. The Île aux Cygnes floats in the middle of the Seine and offers great views of Paris and the Eiffel Tower, while the leafy trees provide welcome shade for a pleasant picnic.
Javel or Passy. From Javel walk toward the Seine, turn right onto quai André Citroen, turn left onto Pont Grenelle, and take stairs down to the Île aux Cygnes. From Passy walk down rue d’Albioni toward the Seine and cross av. du President Kennedy to the Pont Bir-Hakeim; turn right onto Île aux Cygnes and walk all the way down.
Montmartre
BASILIQUE DU SACRÉ-CŒUR
CHURCH
35 rue du Chevalier-de-la-Barre
01 53 41 89 00
www.sacre-coeur-montmartre.com
Situated 129m above sea level, this splendid basilica was first planned in 1870 to serve as a spiritual bulwark for France and the Catholic Church, which were facing an imminent military defeat and German occupation. The basilica was commissioned by the National Assembly and was initially meant to be an assertion of conservative Catholic power, but the only people that assert themselves on the steps today are the scammers offering “free” bracelets, so keep your wits about you after you reach the top of the exhausting climb. Inside, the basilica’s dome is dominated by an image of Jesus Christ with his arms outspread, and if you’re up for more stairs, climb up to the dome for an even better (and still free) view of the Parisian rooftops. Return to the steps of the basilica at night to watch the Eiffel Tower light up and sparkle.
Lamarck-Caulaincourt. Take rue Caulaincourt and turn right onto rue Lamrack. Follow rue Lamrack until you reach the basilica. Free. Basilica open daily 6am-10:30pm. Dome open daily Mar-Nov 9am-7pm; Dec-Feb 9am-6pm. Mass M-F 11:15am, 6:30pm, 10pm; Sa 10pm; Su 11am, 6pm, 10pm.
Buttes-Chaumont & Belleville
PARC DE BELLEVILLE
PARK
27 rue Piat
Parc de Belleville is the place to get lost. Get lost in a book. Get lost in a meal of baguettes, cheese, apples, and wine. Get lost in a game of badminton. Or get lost just wandering about the terraces and smelling the endless colorful flowers. The park is located on a slope, resulting in gorgeous views from the top of Parisian landmarks like the Eiffel Tower and the Panthéon. Come at sundown, when you can see the reds and yellows of the sky above the Parisian skyline. Gently bubbling fountains decorate different parts of the park and add a pleasant ambient soundtrack to the landscape. The park is divided into terraces and different grassy areas that are used for pick-up soccer games or picnics. Be sure to check out the summer schedule of the public amphitheater for concerts and festivals. Although Parc de Belleville closes after dark and many patrons clear out by late evening, fences are low and often breached by bored teenagers looking for a place to rendezvous after hours. (Let’s Go does not recommend hopping fences like a hoodlum).
Pyrénées. Walk west on rue de Belleville, then turn left onto rue Piat. Entrances on rue Piat, rue des Couronnes, rue Bisson, and rue Jouye-Rouve. Free. Open daily dawn to dusk.
CITÉ DE LA MUSIQUE
MUSEUM
221 av. Jean Jaurès
01 44 84 44 84
The Cité de la Musique is an institution that offers concerts, practice rooms, a media library, and workshops, although the highlight is the Musée de la Musique. The museum takes visitors on a tour of music from prehistoric times, with flutes and mammoth tusk horns, to ornate 16th-century Venetian pianos (a must-see) to early 20th-century radios. With over a thousand instruments and a fantastic free audio tour with music clips (we wouldn’t expect anything less), the museum shows you how wonderful the world sounded pre-Autotune. Highlights include instruments formerly owned by greats like Frédéric Chopin, Stradivarius violins, gilded baroque-style harpsichords, and a small collection of world instruments. Temporary exhibits hit the museum’s lower levels twice a year and cover a range of musical styles and time periods; a recent exhibit was dedicated entirely to Bob Dylan.
Porte de Pantin. Extra charges may apply for temporary exhibits. Concert €8-41, 50% discount under 16, under 26 €9 if tickets are available. Museum €7, under 26 free; joint with temporary exhibits €9/5. Info center open Tu-Sa noon-6pm, Su 10am-6pm. Musée de la Musique open Tu-Sa noon-6pm, Su 10am-6pm. Last entry 5:15pm.
PARC DES BUTTES-CHAUMONT
PARK
1 rue Botzaris
Not your average Parisian park, the Buttes-Chaumont was modeled after Hyde Park in London, but it seems more like Pandora from Avatar. In the 13th century, this area was the site of a gibbet (an iron cage filled with the rotting corpses of criminals), a dumping ground for dead horses, a haven for worms, and a gypsum quarry (the origin of the term “plaster of Paris”). Thankfully, it’s come a long way since then. Around the park and walkways, a barrier of trees provides shade, but there is more than enough sun for a picnic or laying out on the steep grassy slopes that overlook the high cliff. Bridges lead over the surrounding lake to the top, where designer Adolphe Alphand decided (why? we don’t know) to build a small Roman temple. For some solitary ambling and a rare moment of peace and greenery, mosey along one of the many narrow footpaths.
Buttes-Chaumont. Free. Open daily Apr 7am-9pm; May-Aug 7am-10pm; Sept 7am-9pm; Oct-Mar 7am-8pm.
FOOD
Say goodbye to foot-long subs and that sticky pre-sliced cheese they sell at Cost-co; you’re not in Kansas anymore. Food is an integral part of French life—while world-famous chefs and their three-star prices are valued Parisian institutions, you don’t have to break the bank for excellent cuisine, especially if you come at lunchtime (when prices are nearly half what they are at dinner). Brasseries are even more casual and foster a lively and irreverent atmosphere. The least expensive option is usually a creperie, which specialize in thin Breton pancakes filled with meat, vegetables, cheeses, chocolate, or fruits. Creperies might conjure images of yuppie brunches and awkward first dates for Americans, but here in Paris, you can often eat a crepe for less than you’d pay for a patty at the great Golden Arches. Specialty food shops, including boulangeries (bakeries), patisseries (pastry shops), and chocolatiers (chocolate shops), provide delicious and inexpensive picnic supplies. A number of cheap kebab and falafel stands around town also serve quick, cheap fare. Bon appétit!
Île de la Cité and Île St-Louis
CAFÉ MED
RESTAURANT, CREPERIE $$
77 rue St-Louis-en-l’Île
01 43 29 73 17
On an island dominated by tourists, Café Med is a welcoming and surprisingly affordable spot for lunch and dinner. This usually packed cafe has prix-fixe meals for under 10 euro and enormous, crispy crepes. Colorful Moulin Rouge posters decorate the walls, but this small cafe has a much more laid-back and casual vibe thanks to the French locals and experienced travelers who chatter away over hot apple tarts.
Pont Marie. Cross Pont Marie, turn right onto quai de Bourbon, left onto rue le Regrattier, then right onto rue St-Louis-en-l’Île. Café Med is on the left. Prix-fixe menus from €9.90-19.90. Open daily 11:45am-3:15pm and 6:45pm-10:30pm.
RESTAURANT, COCKTAIL BAR $$
26 pl. Dauphine
01 43 29 52 34
If a cafe is located in the quiet pl. Dauphine, why not make the plaza your dining room? Seat yourself outside at Ma Salle à Manger, a tiny restaurant featuring food from the southwest region of France. Feast on their Basque specialties like the celebrated Basque pâté surrounded by vintage posters from the Bayonne festivals and red-and-white checkered aprons hanging on the walls.
Cité or Pont Neuf. From Pont Neuf, cross the bridge and turn left into the square. Plats €15-18. Prix-fixe menu (entrée and plat or plat and dessert) for lunch €19.50, dinner €22.50. Open daily from 9:30am-10:30pm.
LE PETIT PLATEAU
CAFE $$
1 quai aux Fleurs
01 44 07 61 86
With beautiful views of the Seine and a nice breeze to boot, this affordable cafe fills up quickly at lunchtime. Le Petit Plateau is located around the corner from the main street but is close enough to the foot traffic for some excellent people watching in relative peace and quiet. The stars of the show here are the quiches, which are made fresh every day, although the establishment also has its share of quality salads (the one with goat cheese is a popular choice).
Cité. Walk toward the Seine, turn right onto quai de la Corse, then walk until Pont Saint-Louis; the cafe is on the right, next to Esmeralda. Quiches from €8.50. Salads €10.5-11.50. Sandwiches €5-15. Lunch €12.50-16.50. Open daily 10am-6pm.
LA RÉSERVE DE QUASIMODO
CAFE $$
4 rue de la Colombe
01 46 34 67 67
Conversations flow freely here, just as they have for the last seven centuries. The food here is as good as that of the next French cafe, but this establishment operates a small wine cellar to pair perfect selections with each dish (or with an assortment of cheese or charcuterie if you’re not feeling too hungry). This restaurant also offers sandwiches and the cheapest takeaway crepes on the island—don’t be fooled into paying more than 3 euro for a Nu tella crepe!
Cité. Walk toward the Seine, turn right onto quai de la Corse, then left onto rue de la Colombe; Quasimodo is on the left. Plats €11-13. Salads €6.5-11. Sandwiches €4-7. Entrées €5. Lunch special €16. Open M-Sa noon-11pm. Kitchen open until 10 pm.
The Marais
L’AS DU FALLAFEL
FALAFEL $
34 rue des Rosiers
01 48 87 63 60
L’As du Fallafel has become a landmark, and with good reason. Get a view into the kitchen, and you’ll see giant tubs of freshly cut veggies and the chef frying falafel as fast as it’s ordered. Patrons line up outside for the famous “falafel special”—we think of it as more of a magic trick, because we still don’t know how they managed to fit everything into that pita. With greasy fried eggplant, hummus, pickled cabbage, cucumber, and, of course, plenty of crunchy falafel balls, it’s huge, and it’s especially fun to watch everyone try to eat it as neatly as possible. Avoid this place during dinner hours, as the wait can reach 30min.
St-Paul. Take rue Pavée and turn left onto rue des Rosiers. Falafel special €5.50. Shawarma €8. Eat-in falafel €8. Open M-Th 11am-midnight, F 11am-5pm, Su 11am-midnight.
BREIZH CAFÉ
CAFE $$
109 rue Vieille du Temple
01 42 72 13 77
The crepes here are easy, Breizh-y, beautiful. The galettes are made with organic eggs and flour from Brittany, and Breizh Café also serves fancy shmancy handmade Bordier butter to smear on your crepe. Quality is king here, and nearly everything is made from some sort of premium product that melts foodies right then and there. Those on a budget will doubly appreciate the prices, with numerous options that easily ring in to under €10. Complete your meal with one of nearly 20 different ciders to wash it all down.
St-Sébastien-Froissart. Walk down rue du Pont aux Choux with the traffic and turn left onto rue Vieille du Temple; Breizh Café is on the right. Savory crepes €4.50-11.80. Sweet crepes €3.80-7.50. Ciders €3.50. Open W-Sa 11:30am-11pm, Su 11:30am-10pm.
PAIN VIN FROMAGE
TRADITIONAL $$$
3 rue Geoffrey L’Angevin
01 42 74 07 52
Gee, wonder what they serve here? Perhaps, bread, wine, and cheese? Nobody does the Holy Trinity of French cuisine quite as well as this rustic Parisian gem. If you can handle the rich, ripe smell of cheese and hot fondue for an evening, it will be worth it. With a selection of fine cheeses from seven different regions in France and the perfect wine selection to pair them with, the gentlemen might as well twist their handle-bar mustaches with a hoh hoh hoh while the ladies puff on their long cigarette handles with an ooh là là! For a more romantic experience—you’re in Paris, make the most of it—head downstairs to the quieter, dimmed, and intimate stone basement.
Rambuteau or Hôtel de Ville. Reservations recommended. Entrées €4-9.50. Charcuterie platters €8.50-10. Fondue €14-16.50. Regional cheese platters €18. Open daily 7-11:30pm. Closed Jul 15-Aug 15.
Latin Quarter and St-Germain
AU P’TIT GREC
CREPERIE $
62 rue Mouffetard
01 43 36 45 06
Forget about all the other crepes you’ve eaten—the crepes salées (savory crepes) at Au P’tit Grec laugh at the other crepes you’ve eaten. You think you’ve had crepes? Think again. Filled with anything from chorizo to chèvre to mushrooms to bacon, these enormous crepes are stuffed to their physical limit with everything you’ve ever wanted and combinations you didn’t even know you desired. Be sure to add in salad, tomatoes, and onions at no extra charge. This takeout joint has a few bar stools if you can snag a seat, but on a busy day, expect quite a crowd outside of its blue doorway, with everyone clamoring for the cheap crepes before hitting up the nearby bars.
Place Monge. Walk down rue Monge, turn right onto rue Ortolan, then left onto rue Mouffetard. Au P’tit Grec is on the right. Crepes salées €3-5.80, crepes sucrées €1.50-4.50. Open daily 11am-midnight.
HUÎTRERIE RÉGIS
OYSTERS $$$
3 rue de Montfaucon
01 44 41 10 07
Oysters are the only child at Huîtrerie Régis and are showered with the utmost care and affection of the restaurant, which is dedicated entirely to the dish. The oysters are undeniably the stars of the restaurant, and Huîtrerie Régis is arguably the gem of Paris’s oyster bars. The tiny, whitewashed dining room with sky blue plates feels like a Mediterranean cottage and is usually packed for dinner. If the restaurant is too crowded, Huîtrerie Régis also sells shucked oysters to go, and with oysters this good, not too much preparation is needed for a delicious meal at home.
Saint-Germain-des-Prés or Mabillon. From Saint-Germain, walk down bd Saint-Germain in the direction of the traffic, turn right onto rue du Four, then left onto rue de Montfaucon; Huîterie is on the left. From Mabillon, walk up rue du Four in the direction of traffic, turn right onto rue de Montfacon; Huîtrerie is on the left. Dozen oysters €18.50-59, to-go €15-37. Open Tu-Su noon-2:30pm and 6:30-10:30pm.
CAFE $
8 rue de l’École de Médecine
01 43 26 60 48
Competition is justly fierce when it comes to patisseries in Paris, but Patisserie Viennoise takes the cake, pun fully intended. This tiny shop and small, two-room salon de thé is famous among Paris locals for their sumptuous hot chocolate and café viennois, a piping hot espresso with a very generous serving of whipped cream (Cholesterol? What’s that?). Their pastries are also pretty good, but puts you in grave danger of a sugar coma when coupled with one of their hot drinks.
Odeon or Cluny-La Sorbonne. From Odeon, walk down bd Saint-Germain in the direction of traffic for 1 block, turn right onto rue Hautefeuille, then left onto rue de l’École de Médecine; Patisserie is on the left. From Cluny-La Sorbonne, walk up bd Saint-Germain against traffic, turn left onto bd Saint-Michel and right onto rue de l’École de Médecine; Patisserie is on the right. Cafe €2. Hot chocolate €3-3.50. Café viennois €3.50-4. Open M-F 9am-7pm.
LA BOTTEGA DI PASTAVINO
ITALIAN, EPICERIE $
18 rue de Buci
01 44 07 09 56
Every boulangerie in Paris sells panini, but at Pastavino, the sandwiches seem to come straight from the Italian motherland. Served on hot, thick focaccia, with mozzarella so good you’ll wonder which country really knows its cheeses, the panini are the main draw of this tiny establishment and are a great deal in this expensive area. Pastavino also doubles as an Italian épicerie—sorry, we mean bottega—filled with specialty pastas, cannoli, antipasti, gnocchi, and a slew of sauces.
Mabillon. Walk up rue du Four, past bd Saint-Germain, onto rue de Buci. Pastavino is on the left. Panini €4.50-6. Open M-Sa 9:30am-8:15pm.
DE CLERQ
BELGIAN FRIES $
184 rue Saint-Jacques
01 43 54 24 20
Everybody, from students from the nearby Sorbonne to professionals in sharp suits to policemen, gets in line at De Clerq for the excellent and cheap Belgian fries. The potatoes are hand-peeled, imported fresh daily, and dipped twice in beef grease before being drizzled in house sauces. The fries are the main draw here, although the burgers and the liège waffles are quite popular as well. This is a takeaway joint, so grab your meal and head to the Jardin du Luxembourg to munch away.
RER Luxembourg. Walk up the bd Saint-Michel toward the Jardin du Luxembourg, turn right onto rue le Goff, right onto rue Gay-Lussac, left onto rue Royer-Collard, left onto rue Saint-Jacques, and walk 1 block; De Clerq is on the left. Fries €2.50-4.50. Burgers €3.50-5.80. Waffles €2.50. Open M-Th 11am-10pm, F-Sa 11am-midnight, Su 6:30-10pm.
LES PAPILLES
TRADITIONAL, WINE BAR $$$$
30 rue Gay Lussac
01 43 25 20 79
Part wine shop, part épicerie, part restaurant, and all delicious, Les Papilles ranks as a top choice of food critics and is always packed during dinner. The small restaurant has an old-world charm, with tiny tables, a zinc bar, a colorful mosaic floor, and an entire wall of neatly arranged bottles of wine. Although there is a fair share of tourists in this restaurant, the food remains faithful to French cuisine, and the prix-fixe, four-course menu (the only option in the house) is always expertly prepared. If you’re looking to splurge for a meal, this is the place to do it.
RER Luxembourg. Walk up the bd Saint-Michel toward the Jardin du Luxembourg, turn right onto rue le Goff, and right onto rue Gay-Lussac; Les Papilles is up the block on the right. Reservations recommended €7 corkage fee. Prix-fixe meals €35. Open Tu-Sa noon-2pm and 7-10pm.
CAFE, WINE BAR $$$
19 rue des Fossés Saint-Jacques
01 44 07 04 41
After hipsters go through their rough, transitional 20s, the successful survivors morph into incredibly self-assured, unpretentious, and impeccably styled 30-somethings, and those 30-somethings come to this cafe. Here, they sip espressos as they read the latest novel and swap literary criticism over glasses of fine wine excellently paired with the small plates of French dishes. Those that aren’t huddled over a two-person table are at the bar or are holding hands with their partners on the peaceful terrace outside.
RER Luxembourg. Walk toward the Jardin du Luxembourg, turn right onto rue le Goff, right onto rue Gay-Lussac, left onto rue Royer-Collard, left onto rue Saint-Jacques, and right onto rue des Fossés Saint-Jacques; the cafe is on the left. Wine €5-7 per glass. Entrées €5-12. plats €9-15. Dessert €6-8. Cash only Open M-F 8am-midnight.
Invalides
The chic 7ème is low on budget options, but there are a number of quality restaurants here that are worth the extra euro.
BARTHÉLÉMY
FROMAGERIE $
51 rue de Grenelle
01 42 22 82 24
The French go hard on cheese, and every square inch of this famous fromagerie is packed with every type of (expensive) cheese imaginable. This store is frequently filled with older French customers who know their brie and hang tight with Madame Barthélémy. Barthélémy is quite small and crowded, so the staff may not be able to give those without a cheese palate the low-down on the goods—it’s best to know your preferences before you go. The limiting factors here are your wallet and how long you can endure the sharp, pungent scent of ripening cheese.
Rue de Bac. Walk south down bd Raspail and turn right onto rue de Grenelle; the shop is on the right, just before the next corner. Cheese from €3-12. Open M-F 8:30am-1:30pm and 4-7pm, Sa 8:30am-1:30pm and 3-7pm.
CHEZ LUCIE
CREOLE $$
15 rue Augereau
01 45 55 08 74
You’ve been working that French scowl to perfection, but at this creole hole-in-the-wall, it’s actually okay to grin and chat up the owner, who regularly shoots the breeze with his customers and will gladly show you pictures of his wife. Specializing in dishes from Martinique, Chez Lucie has options you won’t normally see in Paris, from fish in coconut milk to spicy catfish to the more adventurous shark toufée. The portions are enormous for such a low price, and the ti’ponch (rum punch) will knock you on your ass.
École Militaire. Walk toward the Eiffel Tower on av. de la Bourdonnais, turn right onto rue de Grenelle, and take an immediate left onto rue Augereau. The restaurant is on the right (with a bright yellow awning). Entrées €7. plats €13-20. 3-course lunch special €16. Dinner menu with entrée, plat, and dessert €26. Open daily noon-2pm and 7-11pm.
LE SAC À DOS
TRADITIONAL $$$
47 rue de Bourgogne
01 45 55 15 35
This restaurant is near some of Paris’s biggest attractions, but its location on a quiet street saves it from mobs of tourists. Le Sac à Dos is a small, unassuming French restaurant that buys ingredients fresh every morning from local markets. For budget travelers, this place is on the pricier end, but you’re paying for some peace to go with your foie gras and mousse au chocolat (served in a cookie bowl).
Varenne. Walk away from Pont d’Alexandre III on bd des Invalides and turn left onto rue de Varenne. Walk 1 block, past the Musée-Rodin, to rue de Bourgogne and turn left. The restaurant is on the right. Prix-fixe dinner €20. Plats €12-18. Desserts €6. Open M-Sa 11am-2:30pm and 6:30-11pm.
CHOCOLATIER $
30 rue des Saints-Pères
01 45 48 54 67
Around here, DG isn’t short for a fashion house—cue Debauve&Gallais, former royal chocolate suppliers for the rulers of France. Sulpice Debauve, chemist-turned-chocolatier, landed his cushy gig when Marie Antoinette complained that her medicine tasted bad, and Debauve, unlike parents worldwide who would ignore these complaints, created pistoles (chocolate coins) for her. Debauve later took in his nephew, Gallais, and today the family-owned chocolate shop continues to sell its renowned and pricey currency alongside a variety of nougats, ganaches, and other assorted bonbons.
St-Germain-des-Prés. Walk west on bd St-Germain and turn right onto rue des Saints-Pères. Boite de Pistoles de Marie-Antoinette €34. Open M-Sa 9am-7pm.
Champs-Élysées
TY YANN
CREPERIE $
10 rue de Constantinople
01 40 08 00 17
The ever-smiling Breton chef and owner, M. Yann, cheerfully prepares outstanding and relatively inexpensive galettes (€7.50-11) and crepes in this tiny, unassuming restaurant, where the walls are decorated with his mother’s pastoral paintings. Many of the crepes here are expertly flambéed for meals that are too hot to handle, and some creative concoctions include La Vannetaise (sausage sauteed in cognac, Emmental cheese, and onions; €10). The galettes will more than fill you for a meal, so come with a friend and split a sweet crepe for dessert—we recommend the honey almond lemon. Wash it all down with a bowl of cider in an adorable ceramic mug.
Europe. Walk up rue de Rome with the train tracks on the right and turn left onto rue de Constantinople; Ty Yann is on the right. Crepe €7.50-11. Credit card min. €12. Open M noon-2:30pm, Tu-F noon-2:30pm and 7:30-10:30pm, Sa 7:30-10:30pm.
LADURÉE
TEA HOUSE $
18 rue Royale
01 49 60 21 79
Opened in 1862, Ladurée started off as a modest bakery. It has since become so famous that a Gossip Girl employee was flown here to buy macaroons so Chuck could properly offer his heart to Blair. On a more typical day the rococo decor of this tea salon—the original location of a franchise that now extends to 13 countries—attracts a jarring mix of well-groomed shoppers and tourists in sneakers. Along with the infamous mini macaroons arranged in pyramids in the window (beware: the rose flavor tastes like bathroom freshener), most items here are liable to induce a diabetic coma. Ladurée also sells other pastries, but save your money for their expensive macaroons. Dine in the salon or queue up for a culinary orgasm to go.
Concorde. Walk up rue Royale toward the Church Madeleine, away from the pl. de Concorde. Ladurée is on right. Other locations at 75 av. des Champs-Elysées, 21 rue Bonaparte, and 64 bd Haussmann. Box of 6 mini macaroons €15.80. Open M-Th 8am-7:30pm, F-Sa 8am-8pm, Su 10am-7pm.
AMOUR DE BURGER
BURGERS $$
7 rue Godot de Mauroy
01 53 30 09 72
Amour de Burger will have you falling in love with burgers all over again. Set up like an American greasy spoon, this affordable French burger joint still maintains a European air, with most patrons sipping on white wine or watching a soccer match on the TV above the bar. Like all French bread, the brioche buns rank better than their American counterparts, and the patties are a bit thicker and stockier than those from American diners. The portions, however, are not quite as French and will leave you both stuffed and head-over-heels in love with this Parisian anomaly. Pescetarians and vegetarians should spring for the salmon or veggie burgers, and those who want a French twist can order a burger foie gras.
Madeleine. Facing the church, turn around to the left, toward Pinacotheque; pass Pinacotheque and take the 1st left. Amour de Burger is on the left. Burger €12-18.50. Dinner menu €10 and 13. Open M noon-3pm, Tu-F noon-3pm and 7-11:30pm.
Opéra and Canal St-Martin
CHARTIER
TRADITIONAL $$
7 rue du Faubourg Montmartre
01 47 70 86 29
Even with the swift-footed waiters and the two huge floors packed with Parisians and tourists, there just isn’t enough Chartier to go around. On a busy night, you’ll just have to wait your turn to eat in the famous restaurant’s glam, art deco interior. Chartier has been in business for over 100 years, and with its fame, it could easily charge out the you-know-what for its menu, but thankfully for budget travelers, it has held true to its original purpose of hearty French meals at decent prices. Its popularity, however, means that efficiency is prized here, so don’t expect an intimate, drawn-out meal. Seat, order, food, check, and don’t even try to pull any funny business with special requests.
Grands Boulevards. Walk with traffic down bd Poissonnière and turn right onto rue du Faubourg Montmartre. Reservations recommended for larger groups. Menu €18. Entrées €2-7. plats €8.50-13.50. Cheese plates €2-2.60. Desserts €2.20-4. Open daily 11:30am-10pm.
SUPERNATURE
BRUNCH, ORGANIC $
12 rue de Trévise
01 47 70 21 03
After all that cheese and wine, it’s time to feel good about your life choices, and Supernature is here to help. The restaurant serves up quite a few delicious healthy options, with a few non-vegetarian choices tossed in—this is France after all. Expect to see and hear buzzwords like “local” and “organic” around here and a packed crowd at the incredible Sunday brunch. For those looking for a cheaper meal, get in line with the Parisians at the takeout joint down the block, with its generous formules for €7.60.
Grands Boulevards. Walk against the traffic on bd Poissonière, turn left onto rue Rougemont, then right onto rue Bergère, then left onto rue de Trèvise. Supernature on right. Reservations recommended for Su brunch. Brunch €20. Lunch menu €16-20. Takeout formules €7.60-8.60. Open M-F noon-4pm, Su 11:30am-4pm.
BOB’S JUICE BAR
SMOOTHIES, BAGELS $
15 rue Lucien Sampaix
09 50 06 36 18
This juice bar wouldn’t raise an eyebrow in Brooklyn, but its vegetarian fare (read: not just salads) and health-food focus make it stand out in Paris. The communal table at this small, hippie, eco-conscious smoothie and lunchtime spot is usually filled with backpackers and locals alike. Those looking to detox with veggies and superfoods will find more than enough acai and quinoa salad in the house, although Bob’s also serves homemade pastries for those with a sweet tooth.
Jacques Bonsergent. Walk up bd Magenta toward Gare du Nord and turn right onto rue Lucien Sampaix. Juice Bar is ½ a block up on the left. Smoothies €6. Bagel sandwiches €6. Open M-F 7:30am-3pm.
CHEZ MAURICE
BISTRO $$
26 rue des Vinaigriers
01 46 07 07 91
Finally, a real, dirt cheap French meal. While the inside may seem standard for a bistro—think red-checkered tablecloths and curtains, dark wood interiors, and framed, vintage-y posters—the escargot and steak tartare here make it a favorite of young locals with scruffy beards. Hold out for the desserts, where you’ll be hard-pressed to choose between crème brûlée or chocolate fondue.
Jacques Bonsergent. Walk up bd Magenta toward Gare du Nord and turn right onto rue Lucien Sampaix. Walk 1 block to rue des Vinaigriers and turn right. The restaurant is on the right. Menu formule €11-18. Open M-F noon-3pm and 6:30-11pm, Sa 6:30-11pm.
Bastille
RESTAURANT 3FC
KEBABS, ALGERIAN $
16 rue d’Aligre
01 43 46 07 73
If you’re starving, only have a meager supply of coins jangling in your pocket, and don’t want to eat out of the garbage, hit 3FC. Not only is the food cheaper than dirt (€0.70 per kebab—we estimate that the current market price for dirt is at least €0.90 per handful), but it’s bangin’ delicious. Choose from a selection of raw kebabs in the front freezer, take them to the kitchen, and wait for the fresh-grilled meat to be brought back to your seat. This place is packed on a nightly basis (note: kebabs are particularly popular among the drunk-munchies crowd), but the beauty of food on a stick is that it’s just as mobile as you are.
Ledru-Rollin. Walk east on rue du Faubourg St-Antoine away from Bastille, take the 3rd right onto rue du Cotte, and turn left onto rue d’Aligre. Kebab €0.70-2. Sandwiches with fries €4. Couscous €7. Entrées €3.50. plats €6. Open Sept-Jun daily 11am-midnight.
WEST COUNTRY GIRL
CREPERIE $$
6 passage St-Ambroise
01 47 00 72 54
West Country Girl is where Parisians take their lucky visiting friends for an excellent taste of the city’s quintessential dish. This small creperie is tucked into a quiet side street in Bastille, and its simple wooden furniture, large open windows, and white walls with flecks of pink paint make the place feel like someone’s extended dining room. The galettes here are simple, and the menu is short and filled with classics, like goat cheese and spinach and ham, cheese, and eggs. To top it all off, the lunch menu is unbeatable, ringing in at €10.50 for a savory and dessert crepe with a glass of Breton cider. Be sure to order the melt-in-your-mouth house specialty, a homemade salted caramel butter crepe.
Parmentier. Walk down av. Parmentier toward rue Oberkampf, turn left onto rue Lechevin, then left onto Passage St-Ambroise; West Country Girl is on the left. Lunch menu €10.50. Savory crepes €4-8, sweet €2.60-7.50. Open Tu-Sa noon-2pm and 7:30-10pm.
AUGUSTE
SANDWICHES $
10 rue St-Sabin
01 47 00 48 20
Shame on all the other sandwicheries when AUGUSTE sells ‘em at €2-3 apiece (with organic ingredients!) without breaking a sweat. Nothing too fancy here, just the good old staples that you can wash down with their freshly made smoothie of the day. Pinch some pennies with trendy adults and students in this sparsely designed, stone-walled spot and marvel at the deal you’re getting.
Bréguet-Sabin. Walk against the traffic on bd Richard-Lenoir and continue down rue St-Sabin against the traffic; AUGUSTE is on the left. Sandwiches €2-4. Soups €3-5. Smoothies €3-5. Cash only. Open Sept-Jun M-Sa noon-2:30pm and 5pm-1am; Jul-Aug noon-2:30pm.
LE GOYAVIER
CREOLE $$$
4 rue St-Bernard
01 43 79 61 41
Hailing from the Réunion Island in the Indian Ocean, the chef here knows how to cook up a real South Asian meal and cooks it damn well. The place doesn’t hide behind any fancy, ornamental decor—the sign out front is plain and the tables are unremarkable. The only complaint around here is about the prices, with each dish coming in at €20 and over. If you’re willing to splurge, though, the generous servings and superb rougail sausages straight from the pot are worth your while.
Ledru Rollin. Walk east on rue du Fauberge St-Antoine and turn left onto rue St-Bernard. The restaurant is on the right behind the scaffolding. Reservations recommended. Entrées €6-10. plats €20-22. House punch €6. Cash or check only. Open M-Tu and Th-Su 8pm-midnight.
CANNIBALE CAFÉ
TRADITIONAL $$
93 rue Jean-Pierre Timbaud
01 49 29 95 59
Don’t be turned off by the name—believe it or not, this restaurant has a decent list of vegetarian options, and its Rococo bar and creative and stylish clientele are leagues beyond any cannibalistic barbarianism. Intellectuals and artistes frequent this bar during the day to loiter over coffee and the free Wi-Fi. Come dinnertime, classier friends turned off by the hedonism of Oberkampf pop over for a late night drink or a dish of rich tuna rilletes or duck confit.
Couronnes. Walk down rue Jean-Pierre Timbaud; Cannibale is on the right. Weekday lunch menu €9.90-13.90. Entrées €6.50-9.50. plats €13-23. Platters €14. Desserts €7-9. Open daily 8am-2am.
PAUSE CAFE
CAFE $$
41 rue de Charonne
01 48 06 80 33
Hipster glasses are an unofficial prerequisite for working here. People climb over themselves to get a seat on the large outdoor terrace to peruse the straightforward menu of salads, beer, tartare, and honey-glazed duck breast. French people adore this place and chatter away all day on the terrace devoid of any Anglophones. This place is so hip that it was featured in the ‘90s hit film, Chacun Cherche Son Chat, which we suspect is the main reason people come here.
Ledru-Rollin. Take av. Ledru-Rollin north and turn left onto rue de Charonne. Entrée €6-11. plats €12-15.80. Desserts €5.50-6. Brunch €19.50. Open M-Sa 7am-2am, Su 7am-8pm.
Montparnasse and Southern Paris
CHEZ GLADINES
BASQUE $$
30 rue des 5 Diamants
01 45 80 70 10
Chez Gladines has the exposed brick walls and red-checkered tablecloth of any other French bistro, but the jam-packed restaurant and prominent Basque flag tells a different story. This joint and its enormous salads are hugely popular with customers, who will gladly wait for an hour for a table during dinner rush. Dishes are relatively cheap for the amount of food you get, making it a great place to share dishes.
Place d’Italie. Take bd Auguste Blanqui away from pl. d’Italie and turn left onto rue des 5 Diamants. Salads €7-11. plats €10-15. Wine €2.40-3 per glass. Cash only. Open M-F noon-3pm and 5pm-midnight, Sa-Su noon-4pm and 5pm-1am.
PHO 14
VIETNAMESE $
129 av. de Choisy
01 45 83 61 15
If you’re hankering for good pho, there’s no need to fly to Vietnam—make it Pho 14. A local favorite that draws starving students and penny-pinching barmen, Pho 14 (not to be confused with Pho 13 next door) serves huge bowls of pho beef (flank steak in spicy soup with rice) for reasonable prices. The hot meals and crowded tables make for a steamy restaurant during the summer, but you can cool down with red bean, coconut milk, and cane sugar drink. This restaurant usually has a line out the door at night and during the lunch rush, so try to arrive on the early or late side of dinner.
Tolbiac. Walk east on rue de Tolbiac and turn left onto av. de Choisy. Pho €7-8.50. Drinks €3.60. Open daily 9am-11pm.
TRADITIONAL, VIETNAMESE $
21 rue Copreaux
01 45 66 73 82
The owner is a former philosophy professor from Saigon University who decided to switch things up and opened this hole-in-the-wall dive that serves up delicious bowls of pho, beef bourguignon, and other goodies at €6 a plate. The university air still lingers in the reams of books on the wall, the crowds of students, and the prices: for his students, whom he affectionately calls his “chouchous du quartier,” or “favorites of the neighborhood,” the price drops to €5. Don’t forget to drink some beer for €2—the cheerful red font outside reminds you to “Drink a little bit. It’s pleasant.” We couldn’t agree more.
Volontaires. Walk against the traffic on rue de Vaugirard, turn right onto rue Copreaux; Le Drapeau is on the right. plat €6, students €5. Coffee €1. Beer €2-2.50. Wine €2-2.60. Cash only. Open daily 11:30am-10pm. Kitchen open 11:30am-8:30pm.
KHAI TRI
BANH MI $
93 av. d’Ivry
01 45 82 12 40
You think you know cheap? Your local banh mi joint at home is probably pricier, and less delicious, than Khai Tri. At €3.20 for a half-baguette bursting with all the usual goodies of sliced pork, pâté, and pickled carrots, the banh mi here is simply unbeatable. With only three different types of sandwiches and not much else on the menu, this tiny sandwich shop is wildly popular with customers, who frequently line up outside for a cheap lunchtime sandwich.
Tolbiac. Walk down rue de Tolbiac toward av. de Choisy Banh, away from the McDonald’s. Walk 1 block, turn right onto av. d’Ivry; Khai Tri is on the right. Banh mi €2.90-3.20. Open Tu-Sa 9:40am-5:40pm, Su 10am-5:30pm.
CREPERIE JOSSELIN
CREPERIE $$
67 rue du Montparnasse
01 43 20 93 50
In a city where you can’t walk two blocks without passing a crepe stand and on a block teeming with creperies, Josselin still manages to stand out thanks to its delicious dedication to the culinary craft of crepe-making. Miniature violins, lace window curtains, and little porcelain teacups decorate the wooden interior of this cozy, grandmotherly restaurant. The edges of the Breton crepes here are thin, crisp, and dainty, and the pocket inside is full of terrific combinations, like warm goat cheese drizzled with honey or banana and chocolate flambéed with rum. The wait can be long for dinner, so come for the lunch special (€12 for a savory crepe, a dessert crepe, and a drink).
Edgar Quinet. Walk up rue du Montparnasse with traffic; Crêperie Josselin is on the right. Savory crepes €5-9.80. Sweet crepes €5-7.80. Cash only. Open Tu-F 11:30am-3pm and 6-11:30pm, Sa noon-midnight, Su noon-11pm.
LE TEMPS DES CERISES
TRADITIONAL $$
18 rue de la Butte aux Cailles
01 45 89 69 48
Not only is this place an excellent French bistro, but in line with the hipster-activist background of the neighborhood, Le Temps is an anti-cellphone (turn it off!) worker’s cooperative since 1976. Their history may give them major street cred, but this place is popular with locals and students for the quality of its food and lively atmosphere during the dinner hours. It’s location at the heart of Quarter Butte-aux-Cailles also makes it a perfect jumping off point for drinks later in the night.
Corvisart. Walk toward rue Corvisart away from Pizza Hut on the same side of bd Auguste-Blanqui as Pizza Hut. Turn left onto a passageway and take the stairs through Jardin Brassai, pass rue des 5 Diamants, turn right onto rue Gérard, turn left onto rue de la Butte aux Cailles; Le Temps is on the left. plat du jour €11. Lunch menu M-F, Su €12-15. Dinner menu €19.50-24.50. Entrées €4.5-15. plats €11-20. Wine €3-5. Open daily 11:45am-2:30pm and 7:15-11:45pm.
TRADITIONAL $$$$
51 bd Garibaldi
01 45 66 96 78
This cool, traditional French restaurant is a carnivorous cavern. With hefty plates full of the kind of meat you’d expect a lumberjack or quarterback to enjoy, Atelier Aubrac is a place you want to come to with an empty stomach. If you’re not sure what to order, have a chat with the gregarious chef, although it’d be hard to go wrong with a 10oz. rib eye steak or a 7oz. rump steak. Lunchtime tends to bring in a professional crowd, but the clientele gets more diverse at dinner.
Sèvres-Lecourbe. Walk northwest on bd Garibaldi; the restaurant is on the right. Lunch menu €16-19. Dinner menu €23.50-27.50. Entrées €7-13. plats €14-29. Open M-F 12:30-2:15pm and 7:30-10:15pm, Sa 7-10:15pm.
Auteuil, Passy & Batignolles
BATIGNOLLES ORGANIC PRODUCE MARKET
MARKET $
bd de Batignolles
There are only two organic markets of note in Paris, and in comparison to the larger, more crowded market at bd Raspail, the one at Batignolles is smaller, less chaotic, and, as a result, much more fun. Stretching across bd de Batignolles every Saturday morning, the Batignolles Organic Produce Market is a delectable jumble of singing shoppers, hats, flowers, bottles of apple cider, honey, textiles, loaves of bread, and obscenely large hunks of cheese, not to mention gorgeous, organic fruits and vegetables. You can buy a crêpe here, nibble on samples as you stroll through, or construct a gourmet picnic with ease and schlep it to the nearby Square des Batignolles.
Rome. On the traffic divider along bd des Batignolles, at the border of the 8ème and 17ème. Open Sa 9am-2pm.
3 PIÈCES CUISINE
BRUNCH, TRADITIONAL $$
25 rue de Chéroy
01 44 90 85 10
3 Pièces Cuisine keeps things casual with (surprise!) just three spacious rooms and a bar that comes alive at night. The one-page menu is equally simple, with a variety of burgers, tartines, sandwiches, and salads. The restaurant’s bright red, green, purple, and yellow colors match the lively clientele, who pack 3PC on Sundays for the ultra-cheap brunch (€11) and at night for the mojitos before heading out into the night.
Villiers. Head east down bd de Batignolles (which is bd de Courcelles in the other direction) and take a left onto rue de Chéroy. The restaurant is on the next corner on the left. Brunch €11. Prix fixe menus €10-15. Plats €7.50. Cocktails €5-7. Open daily 8:30am-1:30am.
LE CLUB DES 5
TRADITIONAL $$
57 rue des Batignolles
01 53 04 94 73
The five friends who founded this fun restaurant wanted to bring the vibe of their childhood in the ‘80s to the place. Le Club des 5 is a combination of nostalgia and hipster, with street signs and cartoon characters decorating the walls of this casual restaurant and one entire section plastered with colorful magazine cutouts. The menu contains grown-up dishes, such as rotisserie chicken and hanger steak, alongside the ones for the kid in you, like the Megacheeseburger and Oreo cheesecake.
Pl. de Clichy. With your back to Montmartre, walk 3 blocks down bd des Batignolles and turn right onto rue des Batignolles. The cafe is 2 blocks down on the left. Lunch plat €11; entrée and plat €14; entrée, plat, and dessert €17. Dinner plats €16-20. Brunch €26. Open M 7:30-11pm, Tu-Su noon-2:30pm and 7:30-11pm. Brunch served Sa-Su noon-4pm.
TRADITIONAL $$$
116 rue des Dames
01 42 93 73 73
Those in the market for an intimate meal--couples and double daters alike--should head to Le Patio Provençal for expertly done French dining. A wonderful skylight brightens the seating in the middle of the restaurant, while several wooden booths allow for more private dining. In the background, Norah Jones serenades your indoor garden dinner to round out the relaxed vibe. The menu may not be exotic for Paris, but you won’t hear any complaints about their duck confit and lamb chops, and vegetarians rejoice at their options at this restaurant. Be sure to leave enough room for all three courses—you won’t want to miss out.
Villiers. Follow rue de Levis away from the intersection and turn right onto rue des Dames. Lunch men €17. Dinner menu from €24, weekends €28. Entrées €9. plats €17-20. Desserts €8. Open M-Sa noon-2:30pm and 7-10:30pm.
Montmartre
Montmartre has tons of great food options at relatively reasonable prices, especially considering how popular the area is with tourists.
LE CAFÉ LOMI
CAFE $
3 Rue Marcadet
09 80 39 56 24
This isn’t a cafe that you just “happen” upon—this coffee shop is a bit far flung, which saves it from the hordes of tourists who would drink up all the carefully crafted noisettes and the hipsters who would take up all the comfortable leather chairs and couches. Le Café Lomi used to just be in the business of hand-selecting coffees from all over the world and expertly roasting it on site, but thankfully for us, it now also serves espressos made from the roasted beans to neighborhood patrons.
Marcadet Poissonniers. Walk down rue Ordener, past bd Ornano, 4 blocks. The cafe is on the right. Espresso €2-2.40. Cappuccino €3.90-4.30. Open W-Su 10am-7pm.
LE POTAGER DU PÈRE THIERRY
TRADITIONAL $$
16 rue Trois Frères
01 53 28 26 20
Almost as soon as this tiny bistro opens its doors, couples and friends swoop in, grab a coveted table, and settle in for a somewhat cramped but masterfully prepared dinner. The red-checkered napkins and smooth stone walls set the scene for a traditional French bistro experience, but the light fixtures made from colanders and the shiny wooden tables add a more modern twist to this restaurant. The specialty of the house is undoubtedly the l’œuf cocottes au foie gras (eggs baked in foie gras; €7), although the catch of the day and the filet mignon are also standouts on the menu.
Absesses. Walk down rue Yvonne le Tac, turn left onto rue des Trois Frères; Le Potager is on the right. Reservations recommended. Entrées €6-7. plats €12-16. Dessert €6-8. Open daily 8pm-midnight.
LE BAL CAFÉ
BRUNCH $$$
6 Impasse de la Défense
01 44 70 75 51
Nobody does brunch quite like the British, and with the stellar combination of truly exceptional coffee (none of that overpriced instant stuff found in Parisian cafes) and former chefs from Rose Bakery running the kitchen, Le Bal Café has become quite the darling of food critics. Throw in an art exhibition space in a former ballroom next to the minimalist dining space, and you’ve got yourself a bona fide hipster hangout.
Place de Clichy. Walk up av. de Clichy away from the roundabout for 2 blocks, turn right onto Impasse de la Défense; the cafe is on the right. Reservations recommended for brunch. Entrées €6-8. plats €13-16. Dessert €6. Open W-F noon-2:30pm and 8-10:30pm, Sa 11am-3pm and 8-10:30pm, Su 11am-4pm.