• POST OFFICES: Bahnhof Zoo. (Joachimstaler Str. 7 
030 887 08 611 
Down Joachimstaler Str. from Bahnhof Zoo on the corner of Joachimstaler Str. and Kantstr. 
Open M-Sa 9am-8pm.) Alexanderplatz. (Rathausstr. 5, by the Dunkin Donuts. Open M-F 9am-7pm, 9am-4pm.) Tegel Airport. ( Open M-F 8am-6pm, Sa 8am-noon.) Ostbahnhof. ( Open M-F 8am-8pm, Sa-Su 10am-6pm.) To find a post office near you, visit the search tool on their website, www.standorte.deutschepost.de/filialen_verkaufspunkte, which is confusing and in German but could help.
• POSTAL CODE 10706.
Emergency
• POLICE: Pl. der Luftbrücke 6. U6: Pl. der Luftbrücke.
• EMERGENCY NUMBERS: 110.
• AMBULANCE AND FIRE: 112.
• NON-EMERGENCY ADVICE HOTLINE: 030 466 44 664.
• MEDICAL SERVICES: The American and British embassies list English-speaking doctors. The emergency doctor (030 31 00 31 or 018 042 255 23 62) service helps travelers find English-speaking doctors. Emergency dentist. (030 890 04 333)
• CRISIS LINES: English spoken on most crisis lines. American Hotline (017 781 41 510) has crisis and referral services. Poison Control. (030 192 40) Berliner Behindertenverband has resources for the disabled. (Jägerstr. 63d 030 204 38 47 www.bbv-ev.de Open W noon-5pm and by appointment.) Deutsche AIDS-Hilfe. (Wilhelmstr. 138 030 690 08 70 www.aidshilfe.de) Drug Crisis Hotline. (030 192 37 24hr.) Frauenkrisentelefon. Women’s crisis line. (030 615 4243 www.frauenkrisentelefon.de Open M 10am-noon, Tu-W 7-9pm, Th 10am-noon, F 7-9pm, Sa-Su 5-7pm.) Lesbenberatung offers counseling for lesbians. (Kulmer Str. 20a 030 215 20 00 www.lesbenberatung-berlin.de) Schwulenberatung offers counseling for gay men. (Mommenstr. 45 030 194 46 www.schwulenberatungberlin.de.) Maneo offers legal help for gay victims of violence. (030 216 33 36 www.maneo.de Open daily 5-7pm.) LARA offers counseling for victims of sexual assault. (Fuggerstr. 19 030 216 88 88 www.lara-berlin.de Open M-F 9am-6pm.)
Getting There
By Plane
Capital Airport Berlin Brandenburg International (BBI) is currently under construction and will be opened at an unknown future date. Until then, Tegel Airport will continue to serve travelers. (018 050 00 186 www.berlin-airport.de Take express bus #X9 or #109 from U7: Jakob-Kaiser Pl., bus #128 from U6: Kurt-Schumacher-Pl., or bus TXL from S42, S41: Beusselstr. Follow signs in the airport for ground transportation.)
By Train
International trains (972 226 150) pass through Berlin’s Hauptbahnhof and run to: Amsterdam, NTH (€130. 7hr., 16 per day); Brussels, BEL (€140. 7hr., 16 per day); Budapest, HUN (€140. 13hr., 4 per day); Copenhagen, DNK (€135. 7hr., 7 per day.); Paris, FRA (€200. 9hr., 9 per day.); Prague, CZR (€80. 5hr., 12 per day); Vienna, AUT (€155. 10hr., 12 per day.)
ZOB is the central bus station. (Masurenallee 4. 030 301 03 80 U2: Theodor-Heuss-Pl. From the metro, head southwest on Masurenallee; the station is on the left. Alternatively, S4, S45, or S46: Messe Nord/ICC. From the metro, walk west on Neue Kantstr. The station is on the right. Open M-F 6am-9pm, Sa-Su and holidays 6am-8pm.)
Getting Around
By Public Transportation: The Bvg
The two pillars of Berlin’s metro are the U-Bahn and S-Bahn trains, which cover the city in spidery and circular patterns, (somewhat) respectively. Trams and buses (both part of the U-Bahn system) scuttle around the remaining city corners. (BVG’s 24hr. hotline 030 194 49 www.bvg.de.) Berlin is divided into three transit zones. Zone A consists of central Berlin, including Tempelhof Airport. The rest of Berlin lies in Zone B.Zone C covers the larger state of Brandenburg, including Potsdam. An AB ticket is the best deal, since you can later buy extension tickets for the outlying areas. A one-way ticket is good for 2hr. after validation. (Zones AB €2.30, BC €2.70, ABC €3, under 6 free.) Within the validation period, the ticket may be used on any S-Bahn, U-Bahn, bus, or tram.
Most train lines don’t run Monday through Friday 1-4am. S-Bahn and U-Bahn lines do run Friday and Saturday nights, but less frequently. When trains stop running, 70 night buses take over, running every 20-30min. generally along major transit routes; pick up the free Nachtliniennetz map of bus routes at a Fahrscheine und Mehr office. The letter “N” precedes night bus numbers. Trams continue to run at night.
Buy tickets, including monthly passes, from machines or ticket windows in metro stations or from bus drivers. Be warned: machines don’t give more than €10 change, and many machines don’t take bills, though some accept credit cards. Validate your ticket by inserting it into the stamp machines before boarding. Failure to validate becomes a big deal when plainclothes policemen bust you and charge you €40 for freeloading. If you bring a bike on the U-Bahn or S-Bahn, you must buy it a child’s ticket. Bikes are prohibited on buses and trams.
Single-ride tickets are a waste of money. A day ticket (AB €6.30, BC €6.60, ABC €6.80) is good from the time it’s stamped until 3am the next day. The BVG also sells 7-day tickets (AB €27.20, BC €28, ABC €33.50) and month-long passes (AB €74, BC €75, ABC €91). The popular tourist cards are another option. The WelcomeCard (sold at tourist offices) buys unlimited travel (AB 48hr. €17, ABC €19; 72hr. €23/26) and includes discounts at 130 sights. The City TourCard is good within zones AB (48hr. €16, 72hr. €22) and offers discounts at over 50 attractions.
By Taxi
Call 15min. in advance for a taxi. Women can request female drivers. Trips within the city cost up to €30. (030 261 026, toll-free 0800 263 00 00)
By Bike
Biking is one of the best ways to explore the city that never brakes. Unless your hostel is out in the boonies, few trips will be out of cycling distance, and given that U-Bahn tickets verge on €3 and that the average long-term bike rental costs €8 per day, pedaling your way can be a better deal and a simpler way to navigate. Fat Tire Bike Rental (Panorama Str. 1a 016 389 26 427) and Prenzlberger Orange Bikes (Kollwitzstr. 35 030 240 47 991 www.berlinfahrradverleih.com) are both great options.
Cologne is the fourth largest city in Germany (after Berlin, Hamburg, and Munich), but it feels decidedly provincial. Perhaps it’s the way that its famous cathedral owns all the other buildings in town, or maybe it’s because the locals speak their own funky dialect, called Kölsch. Cologne became a major pilgrimage destination in the 12th century, after relics of the Three Wise Men were transferred to its cathedral. Many know “cologne,” thanks to Eau de Cologne, an 18th-century perfume that was all the rage back in the day and now makes for the perfect passive-aggressive gift. The city center was almost completely razed by bombings during World War II and has since been meticulously reconstructed.
The city never regained the power it once had in the Middle Ages, but that doesn’t mean that it lives in the past. Trade fairs and conventions regularly bring in throngs of businesspeople. The city is also home to many art museums, and the nightlife scene stays vibrant thanks to the presence of the University of Cologne (Universität zu Köln), one of Germany’s largest universities. Known as the “Gay Capital of Germany,” Cologne is also the site of an enormous Pride parade every summer. Don’t be fooled: Kölsch beer may be served in the smallest glasses you’ll find in Germany, but people here like to enjoy life in big gulps.
ORIENTATION
The Rhein runs north to south through the middle of the city. The historic center is located on the west bank, where a semi-circle of streets, made up of the Hansaring, Hohenzollernring, Hohenstaufenring, Sachsenring, and Ubierring, separates the city’s Altstadt (Old Town, inside the ring) from the Neustadt (New Town, outside the ring). On the other side of the river is Deutz, home to Cologne’s trade fairs.
Altstadt-Nord
The northern part of the Old Town is home to the majestic Dom, which sits next door to the Hauptbahnhof, Cologne’s transportation hub. Many of the city’s museums and churches can be found here, rubbing elbows with Western shops and overpriced German brewhouses. Hohe Straße and Schildergasse are the main shopping streets, stretching from the cathedral all the way to 
Neumarkt. This district is also where you’ll find Eau de Cologne stores, including the famous 4711-Haus.
Altstadt-Sud
The southern part of the Old Town begins at roughly the Deutzer bridge. The Chocolate Museum and the Rautenstrauch-Joest Museum remain this neighborhood’s greatest assets, but recent construction along the banks of the Rhein has transformed the once-defunct Rheinauhaufen (Rhein harbor) into a posh residential area. The three inverted, L-shaped apartment buildings, called the Kranhaus (Crane House), have brought the city some modern architectural street cred. Cologne’s gay hubs (the Heumarkt area and Rudolfpl.) can be found on the border between the northern and southern sections of the Old Town.
Neustadt
Thanks to the presence of the University of Cologne (located in the southwest part of Neustadt), this district has some of Cologne’s most student-friendly restaurants and bars. The area around Zülpicher Platz has great restaurants and stores on every corner, while the Belgisches Viertel to the northwest has a reputation for trendy stores and bars. Hohenzollernring and the surrounding side streets make up another lively area that boasts many cafes, movie theaters, and nightclubs.
Altstadt-Nord
KÖLNER DOM (COLOGNE CATHEDRAL)
CATHEDRAL
Domkloster 3
0221 17 94 05 55
To ascend the Südturm (southern tower), exit the church through the main gate and turn left to head down the stairs. The climb up the tower’s 533 steps will take at least 15min. and will leave you wobbly-legged, but it offers a panoramic view of the city. Though Cologne’s skyline sans cathedral is pretty underwhelming, the climb is definitely worth it. Catch your breath about three-quarters of the way up at the Glockenstube, a chamber for the tower’s nine bells. Four of the bells date from the Middle Ages, but the loudest one is the 20th-century upstart called Der Große Peter, which is the world’s heaviest swinging bell at 24 tons.
By the Hauptbahnhof. The Dom Forum ( 0221 92 58 47 20www.domforum.de), across the street, organizes guided tours in English. A 20min. film in English shown inside the Dom Forum provides an introduction to the cathedral. Cathedral free. Schatzkammer €5, students €2.50; tower €2.50/1; combined €6/3; Dom Forum tours €6 €4; film €2 €1, free with a tour. Church open daily May-Oct 6am-9pm; Nov-Apr 6am-7:30pm. Schatzkammer open daily 10am-6pm. Tower open daily May-Sept 9am-6pm; Oct 9am-5pm; Nov-Feb 9am-4pm; Mar-Apr 9am-5pm. Dom Forum open M-F 10am-6:30pm, Sa 10am-5pm, Su 1-5pm. Tours M-Sa 10:30am and 2:30pm, Su 2:30pm. Dom Forum film M-Sa 11:30am and 3:30pm, Su 3:30pm.
MUSEUM LUDWIG
MUSEUM
Heinrich-Böll-Pl.
0221 22 12 61 65
If you thought Cologne was too focused on its past to collect modern art, you were wrong. The interesting exterior of this building is a work of art in itself that contrasts beautifully with the historical cathedral next door. Still, the metal curves are nothing compared to the astronomic collection of 20th-century art inside. With almost 800 works by Pablo Picasso, the museum has the third largest Picasso collection in the world, documenting all stages of the artist’s career. The entire bottom floor is dedicated to the biggest names in Pop Art, such as Andy Warhol, Roy Lichtenstein, and Robert Rauschenberg. Expressionism and the Russian avant-garde art also dominate the permanent collection.
Behind the Dom, close to the Römisch-Germanisches Museum. Audio tour €3. €10, students €7; 1st Th of the month ½-price after 5pm. Open Tu-Su 10am-6pm. Open until 10am 1st Th of the month.
KOLUMBA
MUSEUM
Kolumbastr. 4
0221 933 19 30
This contemporary art museum run by the Church—yes, you read that right—displays religious artwork from the Middle Ages to the present. The museum is an amazing combination of past and present. Not only is the contemporary museum built upon the ruins of a church, but it is probably one of the few places where you can see centuries-old crucifixes side-by-side with contemporary installations, photographs, and paintings, often dramatically emphasized by spotlights in dark rooms. The museum was constructed over the ruins of the Gothic cathedral of St. Kolumba, which you can see on the ground floor.
U3, U4, U5, U16, U18: Appellhofpl. Walk through the Opern Passage and turn left onto Glockengasse; Kolumba is 1 block past 4711-Haus. Free guidebooks available in English €5, students €3, under 18 free. Open M noon-5pm, W-Su noon-5pm.
NAZI DOCUMENTATION CENTER (EL-DE HAUS)
MUSEUM
Appellhofpl. 23-25
0221 22 12 63 32
Cologne had its own share of Nazi history, and this museum documents that very powerfully. The former Gestapo headquarters and jail here were converted into a museum that educates visitors on the city’s history under the Nazis. Make sure not to miss the basement, where you can see original prison cells, where pleas, poems, and even self-portraits were all scratched into the plaster walls by the (mostly political) prisoners. The exhibit documents a number of individual stories, ranging from successful escape attempts to torture and executions. Although the top floors only have German explanations, the large black-and-white photographs transcend language barriers.
U3, U4, U5, U16, or U18: Appellhofpl., then follow the signs. English explanations in the basement jail but not in the exhibits upstairs €4.50, students €2. Audio tour available in English and 5 other languages €2. Cash only. Open Tu-F 10am-6pm, Sa-Su 11am-6pm.
TWELVE ROMANESQUE CHURCHES OF KÖLN
CHURCHES
Twelve churches containing the bones of saints were built in a semicircle around the Altstadt during the Middle Ages to protect Cologne. Though each is dwarfed by the Dom, the churches attest to the glory and immense wealth of what used to be the most important city north of the Alps. The most memorable of these is probably Saint Ursula Church (Ursulapl. 24), dedicated to the British princess St. Ursula, who was so fond of her celibacy that she delayed her marriage to take a religious trip around Europe, during which she and her virgin companions were killed by the Huns. The church’s treasury contains hundreds of human skulls wrapped in fabric, and the walls are decorated with bones. Another interesting church is the Groß Saint Martin (An Groß St. Martin 9-11), which was re-opened in 1985 after near destruction in WWII. The excavated cellar dates to the first century CE and once served as a training ground for wrestlers. St. Gereon has a history that dates back to the fourth century as well as a beautiful dome with interesting stained glass windows. Entry to the churches is free, so if you don’t feel like paying for museums, you can get your dose of sightseeing simply by touring these. As not many people choose to do this, you won’t be surrounded by tourist crowds.
St. Ursula is northwest of the Hauptbahnhof. Groß St. Martin is close to the river, between the Deutzer and Hohenzollern bridges. Churches free. St. Ursula treasury €2. Groß St. Martin excavations €0.50. St. Ursula treasury open M 10am-1pm, W 10am-1pm, and F-Sa 10am-1pm and 2-5pm. Groß St. Martin open Tu-F 9am-7:30pm, Sa 9:30am-7:30pm, Su 10am-7pm.
Altstadt-Sud
SCHOKOLADENMUSEUM (CHOCOLATE MUSEUM)
MUSEUM
Am Schokoladenmuseum 1a
0221 931 88 80
Give in to the temptation: it’s worth it. Cologne’s Chocolate Museum is every child’s dream and is equally interesting for adults. What we appreciate most about this amazing place is that even though it has all the fun of free samples (check out the chocolate fountain—for best results, show up several times wearing different wigs), there’s still a lot to be learned here, too. Besides exploring the complex history that turned our favorite dessert from a spicy drink into sweet candy, you can also see cocoa plants in the mini greenhouse, pyramids of Kinder Egg toys, and even a purple Milka cow. You’ll also learn how hollow chocolate bunnies are made, and you can watch the stony-faced, lab-coated Oompa-Loompas—er, museum employees—make and package chocolates behind glass walls.
U1, U7, or U9: Heumarkt. Walk east to the river, turn right, and continue along the bank. When you reach the island, turn left onto the small footbridge. All explanations in English €8.50, students €6, family €24. Cash only. Open Tu-F 10am-6pm, Sa-Su 11am-7pm. Last entry 1hr. before close.
MUSEUM SCHNÜTGEN AND RAUTENSTRAUCH-JOEST MUSEUM
MUSEUM
Cäcilienstr. 29-33
Rautenstrauch-Joest:0221 221 31 356
These two establishments follow Cologne’s trend of museums with incredible architecture. Although located in the same building, the two museums seem to be polar opposites. The Schnütgen showcases one of world’s largest collections of European medieval art; one of the most interesting parts, though, is the contrast between the plain, modern walls of the museum and the gorgeous stained glass taken out of its ordinary setting. The Rautenstrauch-Joest welcomes visitors with a video of people greeting each other in different languages. This ethnological museum examines artifacts from Africa, Asia, Australia, and America through themes such as prejudice, funerals, clothing, and religion. Again, the presentation of these exhibits alone, with large curtains and state-of-the-art interactive screens, makes for a worthwhile visit.
U1, U3, U4, U7, U9, U16, or U18: Neumarkt. Head east a tiny bit on Cäcilienstr. Schnütgen €6, students €3.50. Rautenstrauch-Joest €7/4. Combined €10/7. Cash only. Both open Tu-W 10am-6pm, Th 10am-8pm, F-Su 10am-6pm.
FOOD
Altstadt-Nord
WEINHAUS VOGEL
GERMAN $$
Eigelstein Str. 74
0221 139 91 34
Don’t be fooled by the wine glasses in the window: Weinhaus Vogel is an authentic local restaurant where great beer is more important than fancy wine. If you’re still not convinced, just take a look around at the enormous collection of beer posters. Daily local specialties go for €5-6, but we also recommend entrees from the main menu, like the delicious wienerschnitzel.
From the Hauptbahnhof, head past the Rolex building, then turn right at the roundabout. Continue straight through the tunnel; the restaurant is on the right about 300m down the street. Meal €6-18. Daily specials €5-6. Kölsch €1.30. Cash only. Open M-Th 10am-midnight, F-Sa 10am-2am, Su 10am-midnight.
FRÜH AM DOM
GERMAN $$$
Am Hof 18
0221 261 32 11
The enormous, red Gothic letters that spell out the name of this restaurant are only an introduction to the establishment’s grandeur. Früh am Dom has colossal rooms, tile stoves, large wooden cabinets, an outside seating area, and even its own stained glass panel of the Cathedral. Due to its proximity to the famous Dom and the large plates of traditional food, Früh am Dom is the kind of landmark where locals send their out-of-town guests to get the typical Cologne experience. However, as great as this may sound (and it is pretty great), the prices aren’t exactly geared toward the starving student.
Walk south from the plaza of the Dom, then turn left onto Am Hof. The restaurant is on the right. Soup €4-4.60. Entrees €7.50-22.50. Kölsch €1.80. Open daily 8am-midnight. Warm food served until 11:30pm.
Altstadt-Sud
TOSCANINI
ITALIAN $$
Jakobstr. 22
0221 310 99 90
Swinging green leaves near the entrance mixed with red brick arches and large windows make Toscanini a sweet and casually romantic restaurant. It is a bit of a trek from the main tourist path, but it’s worth the trip if you’re looking for authentic Italian food. The restaurant is best known for its pizza, served fresh from the stone oven: try the Rustica, a delicious combination of cheese, prosciutto, and arugula. It’s also one of the few places where the wait staff doesn’t bring you a little Kölsch glass right away—wine is the beverage of choice here.
U3 or U4: Severinstr. Head south down Severinstr. and turn right onto Jakobstr. Toscanini is on the right. Pizza €5.30-9.50. Pasta €6.10-12.90. Beer €2.10. Wine €2.10 per 0.1L. Open M-Sa noon-3pm and 6-11pm, Su 6-11pm.
Below are a couple of Let’s Go’s top recommendations for catching some Z’s in Cologne; for more, visit www.letsgo.com.
STATION HOSTEL FOR BACKPACKERS
HOSTEL $$
Marzellenstr. 44-56
0221 912 53 01
This five-floor backpacker haven has the best location of any hostel in town and a lively atmosphere to match. The “What’s On” part of their website and the knowledgeable staff will direct you to all the cool places in Cologne. The bar and lobby are on the smaller side, but the upstairs seating area with a great kitchen makes up for this. The building is far from new, but the young guests’ spirits make the stay here worth it.
Exit the Hauptbahnhof with the Dom to the left and walk past the Rolex building. At the roundabout, turn right onto Marzellenstr. Free Wi-Fi in common areas and free computer use. Linens included. Lockers outside of the room. 6-bed dorm €17-23; singles from €32; doubles from €48. Reception 24hr.
MEININGER HOTEL COLOGNE CITY CENTER
HOSTEL $$
Engelbertstr. 33-35
0221 99 76 09 65
Meininger is as young and interesting as its guests: the intriguing velvet wallpapers are almost as cool as the hostel’s location near the great nightlife around Zülpicher Pl. The hostel does everything right: the guest kitchen, game room, lounge, and bar are great for relaxing and socializing, while the colorful rooms with private bathrooms are quiet and clean. The free maps of the city, cheap snacks, and affordable bike rentals are extra perks.
U1, U7, U12, or U15: Rudolfpl. From the station, walk south on Habsburgstr., turn right onto Lindenstr., then left onto Engelbertstr. Free Wi-Fi. Breakfas €5.90. Linens and towels included. Computers €1 per 20min. or €2 per hr. Bike rental €12. Women-only dorms available. Dorms €24, but the price can go up to €35 on Sa-Su; singles from €39; doubles from €79. Reception 24hr.
Neustadt
HABIBI FALAFEL
MIDDLE EASTERN $
Zülpicherstr. 28
0221 271 71 41
The marvelous aura of this tiny restaurant makes even the delicious smells and handsome, well-dressed men on their lunch breaks seem unimportant. The small, mosaic-covered tables and hanging newspaper articles come together to create a place very popular with local students, especially on late nights after a few rounds of drinks. The cheap falafel (€1.90) and shawarma (€2.50) are in demand at all times of the day, and the takeout is extremely cheap. If you have time to stay for a while, we recommend the generous plates, which come with a cup of cinnamon tea.
U9, U12, or U15: Zülpicher Pl. Head down Zülpicherstr.; the restaurant is on the right. Plates €6.70-7.70, takeout €1.90-4. Espresso €0.70. Cash only. Open M-Th 11am-1am, F-Sa 11am-3am, Su 11am-1am.
BEI OMA KLEINMANN
SCHNITZEL $$$
Zülpicherstr. 9
0221 23 23 46
Perhaps the best-known schnitzel restaurant in Cologne, Bei Oma Kleinmann offers more than a dozen varieties, from “Weiner Art” to “Chili Lili” and “Olaf Maria,” all of which are equally enormous. This place, full of old radios and taxidermied mountain goats, knows that dinner is the most important meal of the day (for your soul, not your health). Thus, the restaurant is open only in the evenings, and it gets crowded fast. Though the founder, Oma Kleinmann, recently passed away at the age of 95, she is remembered with framed photographs on the walls.
U9, U12, or U15: Zülpicher Pl. Head down Zülpicherstr.; the restaurant is on the left. Schnitzel €12.90-20.90. Kölsch €1.50-2.50. Cash only. Open Tu-Th 5pm-midnight, F-Sa 5pm-1am, Su 5pm-midnight. Kitchen open 5-11pm.
NIGHTLIFE
Altstadt-Nord
GLORIA
VENUE, GLBT
Apostelnstr. 11
0221 66 06 30
Gloria is a must-see landmark of Cologne’s GLBT scene. Not just a cafe and not just a club, this former movie theater offers the best of all worlds and hosts all sorts of awesome events, from parties to films to stand-up comedy. Although the cafe is nice, the real deal is the multi-purpose theater in the back, with red velvet walls and clusters of disco balls. Call or visit the website for the schedule of events; in the past, big names such as Sufjan Stevens and Coldplay have performed here.
U1, U3, U4, U7, U9, U16, or U18: Neumarkt. Walk west toward St. Aposteln church and follow Apostelnstr. as it curves right. Cover €8-15. Theater tickets €15-25. Beer €1.90. Long drinks €6.50. Cash only. Cafe open M-Sa noon-8pm. Club hours vary based on event schedule.
Neustadt
DIE WOHNGEMEINSCHAFT
BAR
Richard-Wagner-Str. 39
0221 39 76 09 04
Whoever had the idea for this bar was a genius: the interior design combines cute, hipster, and awesome in the best possible way. The bar consists of four rooms, each decorated in the style of a fictitious university roommate—Annabel’s cutesy vintage bed is good for chit-chatting, and JoJo’s minibus is really cool to sit in (though we’ve never seen a dorm that would fit a minibus). Play ping-pong in Mai Li’s smoky room, or listen to eclectic DJ mixes in Easy’s abode. The adorable details don’t stop at the rooms: the large bar has vintage fridges and awesome chairs. Aside from the bar, DW also runs a hostel with rooms just as creative as the bar.
U1, U7, U12, or U15: Rudolfpl., then walk south 1 block to Richard-Wagner-Str. and head west. The bar is on the left. Live DJs W-Sa. Beer €1.60- 2.60. Long drinks €5-6. Cash only. Open M-Th 3pm-2am, F-Sa 3pm-3am, Su 3pm-2am.
DAS DING
CLUB
Hohenstaufenring 30-32
2233 71 42 06
“The Thing” is a smokey student disco with a bunch of neon lights everywhere, and it’s the best place to show off your dance moves to your new hostel friends. Das Ding is incredibly student (and budget traveler) friendly, with dirt-cheap specials every night of the week. Tuesdays, for example, offer €1 vodka energy shots in addition to free-beer-o’clock from 9-11pm. And it doesn’t stop there: the club even has a birthday special that includes 10 free shots, a bottle of champagne, and party goods. Student IDs are not required, but the bouncer outside keeps the crowd young.
U9, U12, or U15: Zülpicherpl. Just past the Rewe supermarket. Cover €3-5. Beer €1.20. Shots €1.50-3. Cash only. Open Tu-W 9pm-3am, Th 10pm-4am, F-Sa 10pm-5am.
Practicalities
• TOURIST OFFICES: KölnTourismus. (Kardinal-Höffner-Pl. 1, across from the Dom. 221 34 64 30 www.koelntourismus.de Books accommodations for a €3 fee. Inquire about local bus tours, which cost about €15. English-language walking tour €9, students €8. DIY iGuide €8 per 4hr. Open M-F 9am-8pm, Sa-Su 10am-5pm. English-language walking tour Sa 11:30am.)
• CURRENCY EXCHANGE: Reisebank. (Inside the Hauptbahnhof. 0221 13 44 03 www.reisebank.de Exchanges traveler’s checks for a €6.50 commission. Open daily 7am-10pm.) Exchange. (Kardinal-Höffner-Pl. 1, inside the tourist office 0221 92 52 596 Open M-F 9am-6pm, Sa 9am-4pm.)
• WOMEN’S RESOURCES: Frauenberatungszentrum. (Friesenpl. 9 0221 420 16 20 Open M 2-5pm, Tu 9am-noon, W 2-5pm, Th-F 9am-noon.)
• GLBT RESOURCES: SchwIPS Checkpoint. (Pipinstr. 7, just around the corner from Hotel Timp. 0221 92 57 68 11 www.checkpoint-koeln.de Open M-Th 5-9pm, F-Sa 2-7pm, Su 2-6pm.) LSVD Emergency Hotline. (0221 19 228)
• INTERNET: Many cafes offer free Wi-Fi, including Starbucks in the Hauptbahnhof. Gigabyte. (Across the street from the Hauptbahnhof. €2 per hr. Open 24hr.) A cheaper option is the Film Cafe. (Eigelstein Str., 40 €1 per hr.)
• POST OFFICES: Breite Str. 6-26, near Appellhofpl. ( Open M-F 9am-7pm, Sa 9am-2pm.)
• POSTAL CODES: Cologne postal codes start with 50 or 51. The code for the post office listed above is 50667.
Emergency
• 112. POLICE: 110.
• DOM APOTHEKE: (Courtyard between the Dom and the Hauptbahnhof. 0221 20 05 05 00 www.dom-apotheke-koeln.de Open M-F 8am-8pm, Sa 9am-8pm.)
Getting There
By Plane
Flights from Köln-Bonn Flughafen (02203 40 40 01 02 www.koeln-bonn-airport.de), located halfway between Cologne and Bonn, serve most major European cities, in addition to Turkey and North Africa. The airport is also a budget airline hub. The S13 runs between the Cologne Hauptbahnhof and the airport. €2.50. 15min., every 20-30min.) A taxi from Cologne to the airport costs no more than €30.
By Train
The Cologne Hauptbahnhof is located right by the Dom in the Altstadt-Nord. Trains go to: Berlin (€109. 5hr., 1-2 per hr.); Bonn (€6.80. 30min., 2 per hr.); Frankfurt (€64. 1½hr., every hr.); Munich (€129. 5hr., every hr.); Amsterdam (€58. 3hr., every 2hr.); Basel (€111. 4hr., every hr.); Brussels (€46. 2hr., 4 per day); London (€400. 5hr., 2 per day); Vienna (€154. 10hr., 5 per day.) Prices may be lower if booked at least three days in advance.
Getting Around
By Public Transportation
Cologne’s buses, trams, and subways are served by the KVB, or Kölner Verkehrs-Betriebe (0221 26 313 www.kvb-koeln.de). A Kurzstrecke ticket (€1.70, ages 6-14 €1) is good for a ride of four stops or less. A ride to anywhere in the city is €2.50 (ages 6-14 €1.30), but you can save money by buying a carnet of four (€9/4.90). A day pass is €7.30 for individuals, and €10.70 for groups of up to five. Validate tickets at the validating machines before boarding or face a €40 fine.
By Ferry
Köln-Düsseldorfer leaves from the dock in the Altstadt, between the Deutzer and Hohenzollern bridges, and offers trips up and down Rhein. (0221 208 83 18 www.k-d.de To the Mainz €55, round-trip €60; to Bonn €14/16. Up to 50% discounts for students with valid ID. 1hr. panoramic cruises up and down Rhein in the Cologne area €7.80. 2hr. afternoon cruises €12. Panoramic cruises Apr-Oct daily 10:30am, noon, 2pm, and 6pm. Afternoon cruises 3:30pm.)
By Gondola
Kölner Seilbahn sells scenic gondola trips across the Rhine, from the Zoo to the Rheinpark. (Riehlerstr. 180 0221 547 41 83 www.koelner-seilbahn.de U18: Zoo/Flora. 1-way €4; round-trip €6. Open Apr-Oct daily 10am-6pm).
By Bike
Cologne is a big city, and renting a bike can help you conquer the distances more easily. Pay attention to the direction of bike traffic, as bike lanes are often one-way. In general, keep to the right side of the street. Radstation offers bike rental near the Hauptbahnhof. (Breslauer Pl. 0221 139 71 90 Exit the Hauptbahnhof through the rear exit, then turn right. €50 deposit. €5 per 3hr., €10 per day, €40 per week. Open M-F 5:30am-10:30pm, Sa 6:30am-8pm, Su 8am-8pm.)
As the waterway to the North Sea, some claim that Hamburg has 2579 bridges, but the official count is “more than 2300.” Whichever way you count, Hamburg has more bridges than Venice, London, and Amsterdam combined. And that’s really something; the city’s water is breathtaking. But if water, water, and more water isn’t your thing, Hamburg’s also the perfect place to try donning high heels on cobblestone streets. Or just take a break and explore Hamburg’s copper roofs, fantastic parks, awesome boating opportunities, chic shops, and old factories. Like any good quintessential German city, Hamburg has been burned, bombed, and bisected with nightlife trashier than garbage (again outdoing Venice, London, and Amsterdam combined). Still, the city has somehow managed to draw in corporations, lawyers, and a whole bunch of immigrants. Maybe it’s the nightlife. Hamburg is a port, after all.
ORIENTATION
Hamburg’s geography is notoriously complex, so consider pulling out a map to look over as you read through this. Hamburg lies on the northern bank of the Elbe River. The city’s Altstadt, full of old façades and labyrinthine canals, lies north of the Elbe and south of the Alster lakes. Binnenalster, the smaller of the two Alster lakes, is located in the heart of the Altstadt, with the bustling Jungfernstieg on the south corner. The much larger Außenalster, popular for sailing in the summer and skating in the winter, is slightly farther north, separated from the Binnenalster by the Kennedy- and Lombardbrücken.
Five unique spires outline Hamburg’s Altstadt. Anchoring the center of the Altstadt is the palatial Rathaus, the ornate town hall, and its exquisite doorstep and regular home to both political protests and farmers’ markets, the Rathausmarkt. Alsterfleet Canal bisects the downtown, separating Altstadt on the eastern bank from the Neustadt on the west. The city’s best museums, galleries, and theaters are within these two districts.
The Hauptbahnhof lies at the eastern edge of the city center, along Steintorwall. Starting from the Kirchenallee exit of the Hauptbahnhof, Hamburg’s gay district, St. Georg, follows the Lange Reihe eastward. Outside the Hauptbahnhof’s main exit on Steintorwall is the Kunstmeile (Art Mile), a row of museums extending southward from the Alster lakes to the banks of the Elbe. Perpendicular to Steintorwall, Mönckebergstraße, Hamburg’s most famous shopping street, runs westward to the Rathaus. Just south of the Rathaus, Saint Pauli bears long waterside walkways and a beautiful copper-roofed port along the towering cranes of the Elbe’s industrial district. Horizontally bisecting St. Pauli is the infamously icky Reeperbahn (disingenuously pronounced “RAPER-bawn”), which is packed with strip joints, erotic shops, and a tourist mecca of clubs on the pedestrian off-shoot Große Freiheit.
To the north of St. Pauli, the Schanzenviertel is a radically liberal community on the cusp of gentrification. Here, rows of graffiti-covered restaurants and a busy, late-night cafe and bar scene show little edge but attract fleets of bargain-hunting students. In late summer, the Schanzenfest illegal street market consistently breaks out into a full-fledged war of Molotov cocktails and tear gas between cops and civil discontents. On the westernmost side of Hamburg, Altona celebrates with a mini-Schanzenviertel nightlife and restaurant scene; the area was an independent city ruled by Denmark in the 17th century before Hamburg absorbed it. Altona’s shop-lined pedestrian zone, the Ottenser Hauptstrasse, runs west from the Altona train station.
SIGHTS
PLANTEN UN BLOMEN
BOTANICAL GARDEN
Next to the Hamburg Messe
040 428 232 125
www.plantenunblomen.hamburg.de
This park is fantastic. It’s huge, it’s laden with lily pads and manicured gardens, and it has something for everyone. There’s a real botanical garden, a greenhouse growing things which we thought could only grow south of the Equator, coffee and bananas among them. There’s a Japanese garden. There’s a charming little rose garden. There are a whole handful of cafes and ice cream stands. There are wading pools. There are fountains. For the Harry Potter enthusiast, a giant (though inanimate) chess set is the arena of competition for many a muggle. Daily performances by groups ranging from Irish step dancers to Hamburg’s police choir fill the outdoor Musikpavillion Sundays at 3pm May-Sept. The nightly Wasserlichtkonzerte draws crowds to the lake with fountains and choreographed underwater lights.
S11, S21, or S31: Dammtor. Or U1: Stephanspl. Open daily 7am-11pm. Hours of the other attractions (Japanese garden, botanical garden, golf course, etc.) vary.
HAMBURGER KUNSTHALLE (HALL OF ART)
MUSEUM
Glockengießerwall
040 428 131 200
The Kunsthalle is the Louvre of Germany. The museum is stately, massive, and located on prime Hamburg turf. Staring at every piece of artwork for 10 seconds each would take a few days, and just running quickly through the place sucks up a good two hours. Either way, it’s time well spent. With an incredible collection of canvases from every period in art history—from early medieval religious paintings through Modernism—arranged chronologically across its spacious, skylit halls, this museum is freakishly gorgeous. After you’ve gotten your fill of everything pas, enter the cafe and take the underground passage behind you to the Galerie der Gegenwart (Gallery of the Present) for an expertly curated series of contemporary art exhibits, which may include anything from photographs to the skins of stuffed animals.
Turn right from the “Sitalerstr./City” exit of the Hauptbahnhof and cross the street. The Kunsthalle has the domed ceiling. €12, students €6, under 18 free. Audio tour €2. Open Tu-W 10am-6pm, Th 10am-9pm, F-Su 10am-6pm.
TOWN HALL
Rathausmarkt
040 428 312 064
With more rooms than Buckingham Palace, the 1897 Hamburger Rathaus is an ornately carved stone monument to Hamburg’s long history as a wealthy port city. Today, we have the privilege of seeing the post-fire original: during the extensive Allied bombing of the Innenstadt, a bomb fell on the Rathausmarkt just out front, but, due to the quick thinking of some invisible, architecture-loving time traveler, it never exploded. Accessible only with a thorough 40min. tour, the lavish chambers of the Rathaus overflow with expansive murals, disorienting ornate molding, and wedding-cake chandeliers.
U3: Rathaus. Tours don’t run on days that the state government convenes. Even on open days, certain rooms may be closed due to meetings, so call ahead. Tours €3, under 14 €0.50. English tours M-Th every hr. 10:15am-3:15pm, F 10:15am-1:15pm, Sa 11:15am-5:15pm, Su 11:15am-4:15pm.
MUSEUM FÜR KUNST UND GEWERBE
MUSEUM
Steintorpl.
040 428 134 880
This museum aims to confuse: the complex is a concoction of 19th-century and hyper-modern construction, and the exhibited art and design is similarly varied. Works hail from everywhere and anywhere: a hall of 17th- and 18th-century pianos borders a room of Middle Eastern carved tile; Art Deco pottery squares off against a gigantic collection of 18th-century porcelain arranged by region of origin; and a hallway of late 20th-century chairs challenges your backside to figure out how to sit in them. And this is just the permanent collection. Special exhibits range from 1980s and ’90s Japanese fashion to Art Nouveau advertisements. Yes, it’s a disorienting jumble, but it’s a pleasing one.
S1, S2, S3, S11, S21, S31, U1, U2, or U3: Hauptbahnhof. Leave through the Hauptbahnhof’s south exit; the museum is across the street. €10, students €7, under 18 free. Admission €5 on Th after 5pm. Open Tu-W 10am-6pm, Th 10am-9pm, F-Su 10am-6pm.
Outside Central Hamburg
KZ-GEDENKSTÄTTE NEUENGAMME
CONCENTRATION CAMP
Jean-Dolidier-Weg 75
040 428 131 500
www.kz-gedenkstaette-neuengamme.de
It’s quite a trek from Hamburg, but it’s one you should make: seeing the complex that once housed a concentration camp is nothing short of a chilling experience. Since the camp lies out in the rolling Hamburg countryside, a visit will take at least three hours, but this lesser known center of Nazi terror is a humbling experience worthy of the trip. Between 1938 and 1945, this camp held more than 100,000 forced laborers. Close to half the occupants died from overwork, disease, or execution. Walk around the camp buildings, from the cafeteria and dorms—now reduced to stark piles of rubble—to the work camps, and browse the thorough and moving collection of photographs and artifacts, which includes artwork by some of the prisoners.
S21: Bergedorf. Then take bus #227 or #327: KZ-Gedenkstätte, Ausstellung (about 35-45min.). Buses leave the train station and the camp M-Sa every 30min., Su every 2hr. Free. Museum and memorial open Apr-Sept M-F 9:30am-4pm, Sa-Su noon-7pm; Oct-Mar M-F 9:30am-4pm, Sa-Su noon-5pm. Paths open 24hr. Tours in German Su noon and 2:30pm.
FOOD
RISTORANTE ROCCO
ITALIAN $$$
Hofweg 104
040 22 31 88
From the outside, with its spot next to a small canal and outdoor tables tiered to approach the water, Ristorante Rocco looks way too cla$$y for budget travelers. Even on weekdays, Rocco always hosts business peeps out on date night. Despite the pretentious atmosphere, though, the food is unpretentious and the prices unassuming. For the local all-time favorite, opt for the lasagne (€9), which is baked in its own little dish and covered in deliciously-crispified cheese. Or, if you rather, satisfy your taste for Hamburg’s seafood with any of the dishes containing scampi or Meeresfrüchten.
U3: From the metro, walk north on Winterhuder Weg for 3 large blocks. Then keep left as Winterhuder Weg splits off of Herderstr. Turn right onto Hofweg, and the restaurant is on the right, right next to the canal. Pasta €8-10.50. Entrees €10.50-18. Open M-F noon-3pm and 6-11:30pm, Sa-Su 6-11:30pm.
AZEITONA
MIDDLE EASTERN $
Beckstr. 17-19
040 18 00 73 71
They say that Hamburg is famous for its €2.50 falafel, and we think Azeitona scored the reputation for the whole city. This cafe is tiny and all vegetarian, and the falafel is pretty darn good. For the perfect sandwich, add some of Azeitona’s antipasti for €0.50. The restaurant is decorated like a little slice of the Middle East, and even the benches are carpeted.
U3: Feldstr. From the metro, walk north on Sternstr. After a short block, turn left onto Beckstr. Azeitona is on the right. Entrees €2.50-6. Caipirina €4. Open M-Th noon-11pm, F-Sa noon-late, Su noon-11pm.
EISCAFÉ AM POELCHAUKAMP
ICE CREAM $
Poelchaukamp 3
040 27 25 17
It’s just an ice cream parlor, but it’s an exceptionally good one. The owners are Italian, and the eis is authentic, too. Get a couple scoops—the rum flavors, rum truffle and malaga or rum raisin, are the best. Take it to explore the nearby residential neighborhood.
U3: Sierichstr. From the metro, walk south on Sierichstr. for about 10min. Then turn right onto Poelchaukamp, and the Eiscafe is on the left near the canal. Each scoop €1. Open daily 11am-10pm.
LA SEPIA
SEAFOOD $$
Neuer Pferdemarkt 16
040 432 24 84
When in Hamburg, eat seafood. It’s simply a must, and this Spanish and Portuguese restaurant serves some seriously generous portions at seriously affordable prices (at least in comparison to similar cafes). The low prices justify the interior, which is impersonal and loaded up with tanks of crustaceans. Avoid the expensive dinner entrees and catch the lunch special (noon-5pm) for around €5-7, or try the fish sampler (€6) to get the full cornucopia of Hamburg’s Meeresfrüchte (fruit of the sea).
U3, S11, S21, or S31: Sternschanze. Entrees €7.50-22. Soups €4.50. Open daily noon-3am.
HATARI PFÄLZER CANTINA
GERMAN $$
Schanzenstr. 2
040 43 20 88 66
You’ll be glad to hear that the word “eclectic” sums this cafe up quite nicely: it’s decorated with Chinese dragons and hunting trophies. Students flock here for hamburgers (€7.80-8.20) and Hamburger-watching on the busy street corner. Hatari also serves German specialties, including schnitzel (€11-12) and Flammkuchen (€7.30-8.30), or “French pizza,” a Bavarian thin crust spread with thick cream and piled with toppings.
U3, S11, S21, or S31: Sternschanze. Entrees from €7. Cash only. Open daily noon-late.
HIN&VEG
VEGETARIAN $
Schulterblatt 16
040 594 53 402
This veggie diner is fittingly dog-friendly. As you enter, you might hear one of the servers adoring a dog: “Wasser für den Hund.” If you’re intimidated by meaty German classics, this is your chance to fill up on veggie versions of Deutschland staples. Hin&Veg serves dishes like vegetarian currywurst (€3) and döner (€4), all with vegan sauces. Also, a delicious collection of veggie burgers makes for a light, refreshing way to gain the requisite Hamburg/hamburger bragging rights.
U3, S11, S21, or S31: Sternschanze. From the metro, head south on Schanzenstr. and take the 3rd left onto Schulterblatt. The restaurant is on the right. Burger €2-4. Pizza €5.90-7.50. Cash only. Open M-Th 11:30am-10:30pm, F-Sa 11:30am-midnight, Su 12:30-10pm.
Accommodations in Hamburg can get freakishly expensive, especially in the summer months. But like the good, cheap food, the good, cheap hostels are located in the Schanzenviertel and out west in Altona.
INSTANT SLEEP
HOSTEL $$
Max-Brauer-Allee 277
040 431 82 310
Instant Sleep combines the feel of a summer camp and the set-up of an institution: the beds aren’t bunked, but they feel like cots and are all quite close together. Instant Sleep keeps a fully stocked kitchen and an awesomely social common room. Expect to find foosball, hammocks, and a comfy loft with bean bags and a television. A young backpacking crowd gathers here to hang out or fans out onto the balcony for a smoke.
U3, S11, S21, or S31: Sternschanze. Free Wi-Fi. Linens included. Laundry available. 12-bed dorm €15; 6- to 8-bed dorms €17; 4- to 5-bed €21; singles €39; doubles €54; triples €72. Cash only. Reception open M-W 8am-11pm, Th-Sa 8am-2am, Su 8am-11pm. Balcony open until 10pm.
SCHANZENSTERN ALTONA
HOSTEL $$
Kleiner Rainstr. 24-26
040 399 19 191
www.schanzenstern.de/hotel/altona
Altona has a hotel atmosphere, with a silent courtyard, a residential street, and a lack of common space. Still, the rooms here are tremendous, the beds are comfy and rarely bunked, every room comes with its very own bathroom, and the wide view of Altona will make you swoon. With the Altstadt and the Schanzenviertel each about a 5-10min. train ride away, the location can feel a little remote. Good thing there’s a bustling shopping and nightlife center nearby.
S1, S2, S3, S11 or S31: Altona. From the metro, exit at Ottenser Hauptstr. and head west along the pedestrian walkway. Turn right at Spritzenpl. and take the right fork in the road. Turn left onto Kleiner Rainstr.; the hostel is on the left, just before the bend in the road. Free Wi-Fi and internet terminals available. Breakfas €6.50. Linens included. Dorms €19; singles €44; doubles €59-69; triples €74; quads €84; apartments €79-100. Cash only. Reception 24hr. Common room open 7am-2am.
NIGHTLIFE
AUREL
BAR
Bahrenfelderstr. 157
040 390 27 27
Aurel identifies itself as a Kneipe, which is basically a pub. Despite the prevalence of beer drinking, one of the main attractions at Aurel is their delicious mojito special (€6.50 before 9pm). An early crowd sticks around Aurel until bedtime. A small, beleaguered bar keeps tabs on the incessantly large crowd, which packs the small tables and inevitably spills out onto the sidewalk. Check out the stained glass on the back wall (don’t worry—we don’t get it either).
S1, S3, or S31: Altona. From the metro, exit onto Ottenser Hauptstr., walk east, then turn right onto Bahrenfelderstr. The bar is on the left at the corner of Bahrenfelderstr. and Nöltingstr. Beer €2.60-3.50. Mojitos €8 after 9pm. Mixed drinks €6-8. Cash only. Open daily 10am-late.
BAR
Feldstr. 40
040 432 77 275
Our researchers were mystified by the outdoor flower garden at this punk bar: how, oh how, could leather-clad, whiskey-drinking old boys frequent this dark, smoky Irish bar without treading on them? True to its Irish heritage, Shamrock often fills to capacity with Guinness-drinking English-speakers. Irish football banners hang from the ceiling, and some of the funniest bartenders this side of the Channel fill huge steins with Guinness, Kilkenny, and Irish Car Bombs. Come Thursday nights at 9pm for a hilarious pub quiz and watch Germans mutter to each other in broken English about topics ranging from Bolshevism to Batman to beer.
U3: Feldstr. From the metro, head east on Feldstr. The bar is on the left. Guinness and Kilkenny 0.3 €2.90, 0.4L €3.80. Open Tu-Th 6pm-1am, F 5pm-late, Sa 1pm-late, Su 6pm-midnight.
ROSI’S BAR
BAR
Hamburger Berg 7
040 31 55 82
In an area famous for debauchery, Rosi’s sets the standard. Though this bar is located on a strip of seemingly identical bars, nowhere else comes close to Rosi’s age-old(going on 60 years) notoriety, fame, or motley collection of DJs. Come for soul one night and return for goth-rock the next; no two evenings are alike. Rosi, the one-time wife of Tony Sheridan, became the bar’s manager at the tender age of 18 and still runs it now with her son. Dark wood walls are dressed up with a single disco ball and layers of music posters, all of which contribute to Rosi’s wild nights.
S1, S2, or S3: Reeperbahn. Go east on Reeperbahn, take a left onto Hamburger Berg, and walk about 75m. DJs most nights from 11pm. Beer €2.50-3. Cocktails €5. Cash only. Open M-Th 9pm-4am, F-Sa 9pm-6am, Su 9pm-4am.
CAFÉ GNOSA
CAFE, BAR, GLBT
Lange Reihe 93
040 24 30 34
Café Gnosa is a Hamburg institution. It’s a great cafe and perfect for a visit during the day, but it’s most famous for its fabulous GLBT nightlife. Full of bright lights and decorated with dark wood, Café Gnosa has been serving warm and cold drinks and famous cakes since World War II. Hamburg’s first gay bar attracts an older crowd—gay and straight—who remember its early days, plus some younger faces eager to enjoy the exquisite cakes and talk with the refreshingly friendly staff. You can also pick up free GLBT publications like hinnerk and Hamburg’s Gay Map here.
From the north entrance of the Hauptbahnhof, follow Ernst-Mecke-Str. as it becomes Lange Reihe. Beer €2.70-3.60. Cocktails €5.50-8. Champagne €8.70. Coffee €1.90. Cakes €2-5. Cash only. Open daily 10am-1am.
KYTI VOO
BAR, GLBT
Lange Reihe 82
040 280 55 565
Red neon lights and loud electro suggest a small club, but Kyti Voo is really a large, chic gay bar with an insatiable hunger for heavy beats. The bar inside is massive and many-sided, so it’s too bad no one uses it in the summer, when 20-to 40-somethings snatch up the extensive outdoor seating. By about 10:30pm, Kyti Voo’s sidewalk is one of the most popular places in St. Georg. Sip coffee or cocktails or chow down on a steaming hot Flammkuchen (€6.90-8.90).
From the north entrance of the Hauptbahnhof, follow Ernst-Mecke-Str. as it becomes Lange Reihe. The bar is on the right, about halfway down the block. Espresso €1.60. Beer on tap 0.3L €2.80, 0.5L €3.60. Cocktails €5.50-8. Wine €3.40-6.50. Cash only. Open M-F 9am-late, Sa-Su 10am-late.
BAR
Marktstr. 41
040 431 82 991
Yoko Mono is situated on the edge of a trash-covered, motor-biker-frequented park. The crowd that gathers here is student heavy and generally under 25. Yoko Mono is pretty much the ideal place to chat to someone about how much you love Bon Iver. A pool table heats up the side room, while the small main bar is dark, cozy, and packed. With all the cool, attractive friends it encourages you to meet, this bar could’ve easily broken up the Beatles.
U3: Feldstr. From the metro, head north on Laeiszstr., then west on Marktstr. Wine €2.50-2.80. Beer €2.80-3.50. Cash only. Open daily noon-2am or later.
FABRIK
CLUB
Barnerstr. 36
040 391 070
Fabrik used to be a factory for machine parts. Complete with a rusted crane on the roof, Fabrik is perhaps the only appropriate place to do the robot. Actually, no one does the robot, even here, though you can engage in some Fabrik boogie woogie. For years, crowds have packed this two-level club to hear live DJs, big-name rock acts, and an eclectic mix of other bands, with styles ranging from Latin to punk.
S1, S3, or S31: Altona. From the metro, exit at Ottenser Hauptstr., walk along the pedestrian walkway to the east, turn right onto Bahrenfelderstr., and walk north until you reach Barnerstr. The club is on the right. Check the website for a schedule of events. Live DJ most Sa nights at 10pm. The club hosts a “Gay Factory” night each month. Cover €7. Tickets €17-36. Hours vary, and most acts start at 9pm.
ESSENTIALS
Practicalities
• TOURIST OFFICES: Hamburg’s main tourist offices supply free English-language maps and pamphlets. All sell the Hamburg Card (€8.90), which provides discounts for museums, tours, and particular stores and restaurants, plus unlimited access to public transportation. The Hauptbahnhof office books rooms for a €4 fee and offers free maps. (040 300 51 300. In the Wandelhalle, the station’s main shopping plaza, near the Kirchenallee exit. Open M-Sa 9am-7pm, Su 10am-6pm.) The Sankt Pauli Landungsbrücken office is often less crowded than the Hauptbahnhof office. (Between piers 4 and 5. 040 300 51 203. Open M-W 9am-6pm, Th-Sa 9am-pm.)
• CURRENCY EXCHANGE: ReiseBank arranges money transfers for Western Union and cashes traveler’s checks. (040 32 34 83 2nd fl. of the Hauptbahnhof near the Kirchenallee exit. Also sells telephone cards. Other branches in the Altona and Dammtor train stations as well as in the Flughafen. 1.5% commission. €6.50 to cash 1-9 checks, €10 for 10 checks, and €25 for 25 checks. Exchanges currency for a fixed charge of €3-5. Open daily 7:30am-10pm.) Citibank cashes traveler’s checks, including AmEx. (Rathausstr. 2 040 302 96 202 U3: Rathaus. Open M-F 9am-1pm and 2-6pm.)
• GLBT RESOURCES: St. Georg is the center of the gay community. Hein und Fiete, a self-described “switchboard,” gives advice on doctors, disease prevention, and tips on the gay scene in Hamburg. (Pulverteich 21 040 240 333. Walk down Steindamm away from the Hauptbahnhof, turn right onto Pulverteich, and look for a rainbow-striped flag on the left. Open M-F 4-9pm, Sa 4-7pm.) Magnus-Hirschfeld-Centrum offers film screenings, counseling sessions, and a gay-friendly cafe. (Borgweg 8 040 278 77 800. U3: Borgweg. Cafe open M-Th 5:30-11pm, F 5pm-late, Su 3-8pm.) Magnus-Hirschfeld-Centrum also offers gay and lesbian hotlines. (Gay hotline 040 279 00 69. Lesbian hotline 040 279 0049. Gay hotline open M-W 2-6pm and 7-9pm, Th 2-6pm; Lesbian hotline open W 5-7pm, Th 6-8pm.)
• INTERNET ACCES: Free Wi-Fi is available in Wildwechsel (Beim Grünen Jäger 25 Open daily 4pm-late), at the Altan Hotel (Beim Grünen Jäger 23 You don’t have to be a guest to use internet in the lobby/bar. Open 24hr.), and at Starbucks. (Neuer Jungfernstieg 5 Open M-F 7:30am-9pm, Sa-Su 8am-9pm.) Staats- und Universitätsbibliothek has computers on the 2nd floor, but internet access is limited to library cardholders. (Von Melle-Park 3 040 428 38 22 33. Library car €5 per month, €13 per 6 months. Open M-F 9am-9pm, Sa-Su 10am-9pm.)
• POST OFFICE: Hauptbahnhof. (At the Kirchenallee exit. Open M-F 8am-6pm, Sa 8:30am-12:30pm.)
• POSTAL CODE: 20095.
Emergency
• EMERGENCY NUMBERS: 112.
• POLICE: 110. ( From the Kirchenallee exit of the Hauptbahnhof, turn left and follow signs for “BGS/Bahnpolizei/Bundespolizei.” Another branch is located on the Reeperbahn, at the corner of Davidstr. and Spielbudenpl., and in the courtyard of the Rathaus.)
• PHARMACY: Adler Apotheke.(Schulterblatt 106 040 439 45 90 Schedule of emergency hours for Hamburg pharmacies out front. Open M-F 8:30am-7pm, Sa-Su 9am-4pm.) Hauptbahnhof-Apotheke Wandelhalle. (040 325 27 383. In the station’s upper shopping gallery. Open M-W 7am-9pm, Th-F 7am-9:30pm, and Sa-Su 8am-9pm.)
Getting There
By Plane
Air France (018 058 30 830) and Lufthansa (018 058 05 805), among other airlines, serve Hamburg’s Fuhlsbüttel Airport (HAM; 040 507 50). Jasper Airport Express buses run from the Kirchenallee exit of the Hauptbahnhof directly to the airport. (040 227 10 610. €5, under 12 €2. 25min. Every 10-15min. 4:45am-7pm, every 20min. 7-9:20pm.) Alternatively, you can take U1, S1, or S11 to Ohlsdorf, then take an express bus to the airport. ( €2.60, ages 6-14 €0.90. Every 10min. 4:30am-11pm, every 30min. 11pm-1am.)
By Train
The Hauptbahnhof, Hamburg’s central station, offers connections to: Berlin (€56; 2hr., about 1 per hr.); Frankfurt (€109; 4hr., 1 per hr.); Hannover (€40; 1½hr., 2 per hr.); Munich (€185; 6hr., about 1 per hr.); and Copenhagen (€80; 5hr., 6 per day). The efficient staff at the DB Reisezentrum sells tickets ( Open M-F 5:30am-10pm, Sa-Su 7am-10pm), which are also available at the ticket machines located throughout the Hauptbahnhof and online at. Dammtor station is near the university, to the west of Außenalster; Harburgdorf is to the southeast. Most trains to and from Schleswig-Holstein stop only at Altona, while most trains toward Lübeck stop only in the Hauptbahnhof. Stations are connected by frequent local trains and the S-Bahn.
By Bus
The ZOB terminal is across Steintorpl. from the Hauptbahnhof. (040 24 75 76 Open M-Tu 5am-10pm, W 5am-midnight, Th 5am-10pm, F 5am-midnight, Sa-Su 5am-10pm.)
Getting Around
By Public Transportation
HVV operates the efficient U-Bahn, S-Bahn, and bus network. Tickets are validated upon purchase according to the station or time you buy them. Short rides within downtown cost €1.30, and one-way rides farther out in the network cost €0.80; when in doubt, use the starting point/destination input tool on any ticket machine to figure out which of the one-way tickets will suffice. Two different day cards may cause confusion: the 9-Uhr Tageskarte (9hr. day card €5.50) works for unlimited rides midnight-6am and 9am-6pm on the day of purchase. A Ganztageskarte (full-day pass; €6.80) works for unlimited rides at any point throughout the day of purchase until 6am the next morning. A 3-Tage-Karte (3-day ticket; €16.50) is also available. Passes are available for longer time periods, though anything over a week requires a photo. Frequent riders can bring a photo or take one in the nearby ID booths for €5.
By Ferry
HADAG Seetouristik und Fährdienst AG runs ferries. (040 311 70 70 Departs the docks at St. Pauli Landungsbrücken. 21 stops along the river. Price included in HVV train and bus passes; €2.60 for a new ticket. All 21 stops 75min., every 15min.) Take the HVV-affiliated ferries in lieu of the expensive tour boats for an equally impressive view of the river Elbe.
By Taxi
All Hamburg taxies charge the same rates. Normally, it’s about €2.70 to start, then about €1.80 per km for the first 10km and €1.28 per km thereafter. Try Autoruf (040 441 011), Das Taxi (040 221 122), or Taxi Hamburg. (040 666 666)
By Bike
Hamburg is wonderfully bike-friendly, with wide bike lanes on most roads. Rent a bike at Fahrradstation Dammtor/Rotherbaum (Schlüterstr. 11 040 414 68 27 €4-8 per day Open M-F 9am-6:30pm) or Hamburg City Cycles. (Bernhard-Nocht-Str. 040 742 14 420 Offers guided bike tours €12 per day, €23 per 2 days, €7 per day thereafter. Open Tu-F on request, Sa-Su 10am-6pm.)
When you think of Germany, do you imagine timber houses, cobblestones and castles, Lederhosen, or Oktoberfest? Forget all that: Frankfurt has none of it. Allied bombs destroyed Frankfurt’s Old European style, and all that remains is “Mainhatten.” Frankfurt is located on the Main River, and while you’d imagine the place to be charming, exciting, and romantic, it’s none of that, either. Frankfurt is all about business: banks, skyscrapers, corporations, colorless suits, transportation (and layovers). So, is it worth seeing? Well, if you’re traveling on a budget, perhaps not. But like the rest of us, you’re probably going to end up in Frankfurt because of a layover, and the city does have some worthwhile sights and museums. After all, Frankfurt did serve as the site of the Holy Roman Empire’s imperial elections from 1562 until the empire’s dissolution in 1807. The Altstadt, Frankfurt’s tiny old town, features some leftovers from its medieval glory days, including adorable reconstructions of those half-timbered houses you’ve set as your computer’s background and an exquisite Gothic cathedral, which, by the glory of luck or a chance deity, survived the Allied bombing of 1944. The Main River, which splits Frankfurt in two, offers some gorgeous views that almost make you forget the steel phalluses scraping the sky around you. Considered the epicenter of German techno back in the ’90s, Frankfurt also has some of Germany’s most literally (and not-so-literally) burned-out but once awesome clubs.
ORIENTATION
The Main River runs east to west through Frankfurt, splitting it in two. Most of the city is located to the north.