North of the Main
The historic city center right along the Main is called the Altstadt, and includes the Römerberg (a medieval square) and the (in)spired Dom Sankt Bartholomäus, site of those famous Holy Roman Empire elections. Just to the north is the Innenstadt, the city’s commercial district, with high-class shops and restaurants stretching along the Zeil between 
Hauptwache and Konstablerwache. Immediately west of that, around Taunusanlage, the city’s financial district holds the highest concentration of skyscrapers. To the southwest lies the Hauptbahnhof, surrounded by cheap restaurants and the city’s red light district. Just to the north, near Festhalle/Messe, the Frankfurter Messe is the third-largest trade fair hall in the world and is surrounded by more glass pyramids than 31st-century Egypt. In the northwest corner, Bockenheim is home to the students of Johann-Wolfgang Universität and Frankfurt’s few wallet-friendly cafes. The city’s most upscale and exclusive nightlife lies along Hanauer Landstraße on the east side of the city, amid auto dealers, factories, and highway cloverleaves.
South of the Main
Immediately south of the Main, a row of museums called the Museumsufer stretches along Schaumainkai, which runs alongside the river. The neighborhood to the south is known as Sachsenhausen. In the middle, around Schweizer Platz, you’ll find a collection of age-old restaurants specializing in grüne Soße (literally “green sauce,” made with borrage, sorrel, chives, and other herbs) and Apfelwein (apple wine), while to the northeast, near Frankensteiner Platz, a hopping, cobbled nightlife district fills its diverse bars with throngs of ruddy-faced young people.
SIGHTS
North of the Main
MUSEUM FÜR MODERNE KUNST
ART MUSEUM
Domstr. 10
069 212 30 447
www.mmk-frankfurt.de
The Museum für Moderne Kunst is one of the best ways to spend a couple of hours in Frankfurt. Sure, the collection could be located anywhere, but this modern city does modern art pretty damn well. MfMK has a little something for everyone: plastic, yellow mini skyscrapers; paintings of bound and nude women; rooms full of messy “found art” sculptures; video installations, including one of an elephant doing all its elephant things as it’s circled by a camera; and works by some of the great pop artists, including Warhol’s iconic Campbell’s soup cans. Check out James Turrell’s Twilight Arch, but try not to step on a fellow patron when you enter the completely dark room.
U4 or U5: Römer/Dom. From the metro, walk up Hasengasse to the curvy building 1 block north of the Dom. Explanations in English. €10, students €5. Last Sa of the month free. 
Open Tu 10am-6pm, W 10am-8pm, Th-Su 10am-6pm.
DOM SANKT BARTHOLOMÄUS
CHURCH
Dompl. 14
069 133 76 184
www.dom-frankfurt.de
This cathedral is practically the only sight in Frankfurt that isn’t shiny and new. Amazingly, the 66m spire survived the Allied bombing of 1944. Back when the Holy Roman Empire was a thing (from 1562-1792), seven electors chose continental Europe’s most influential emperors here, and the glorious coronation ceremonies that followed filled the Dom’s Gothic halls with splendor. Unfortunately, the church had to be reconstructed after an 1867 fire, but the resulting Gothic tower is among Germany’s most famous. The Dom Museum in the main entrance, and its continuation in the Haus am Dom holds architectural studies of the Dom, intricate gold chalices, and the ceremonial robes of imperial electors. Though limited, this splendid collection of religious memorabilia is worth the small fee.
U4 or U5: Dom/Römer. Cathedral free. Dom Museum €3, students €2. Tours €3/2. Cash only. Cathedral open M-Th 8am-8pm, F noon-8pm, Sa-Su 9am-8pm, except during services. Tours (in German) Tu-Su 3pm. Museum open Tu-F 10am-5pm, Sa-Su 11am-5pm. Haus am Dom open M-F 9am-5pm, Sa-Su 11am-5pm.
RÖMER
CITY HALL
Römerberg 25
Are you ready to dish out €15 for a scoop of ice cream? Römer’s the place: this alleged “medieval masterpiece” is set against the most touristy square in all of Frankfurt. At the west end of the Römerberg, the blocky façade of the Römer has marked the site of Frankfurt’s city hall since 1405. Named for the merchant family who inhabited it before the city council snatched it up, the Römer is distinct and marred only by the fact that today’s version is a simplified post-war reconstruction. Since most of the building is still used by the municipal government, tourists can only access the Kaisersaal, which features an impressive series of 19th-century portraits of every Holy Roman Emperor, from Charlemagne to Francis II. It’s only worth the €2 admission if you want to play the lookalike game with some of the most influential leaders in human history.
U4 or U5: Dom/Römer. Admission to Kaisersaal €2, students €0.50. Cash only. Kaisersaal open daily 10am-1pm and 2-5pm.
ARCHÄOLOGISCHER GARTEN
ARCHAEOLOGICAL SITE
Between the Dom and the Römerberg are the Schirn Kunsthalle and a plantless “garden” of crumbled building foundations, some of which date back to a 2000-year-old Roman settlement. Three sets of ruins, from the first century BCE and the ninth and 15th centuries CE, were uncovered during excavations in 1953. Today, they rest undisturbed in a well-maintained garden, where you can wander around the ancient remains of Roman baths, military walls, an imperial palace, and middle-class resident houses. We suggest you pause to wonder whether ancient residents of Frankfurt wore business suits, too. The only drawback to this place is that nothing’s translated into English.
U4 or U5: Dom/Römer. From the metro, head toward the Dom.
South of the Main
STÄDEL
ART MUSEUM
Schaumainkai 63
069 605 09 80
www.staedelmuseum.de
The Städel Museum, with its collection dating back to 1300, is probably the most successful and complete museum you’re going to find in Germany. Masters like Botticelli, Rembrandt, and Dürer dominate one end of the timeline, while modern gods like Renoir, Kirchner, and Picasso command the other. The contents of this museum were hidden in a Bavarian castle during World War II, and everything survived the war except the main gallery, which was rebuilt in 1966. Excellent presentation, curatorial decisions, and organization will turn you into an art history beast after a single visit.
The Städel is at the south end of the Holbeinsteg. M-F €12, students €10, under 12 free; Sa-Su €14, students €12. Open Tu 10am-6pm, W-Th 10am-9pm, F-Su 10am-6pm.
MUSEUM FÜR ANGEWANDTE KUNST (MUSEUM FOR APPLIED ART)
MUSEUM
Schaumainkai 17
069 212 34 037
www.angewandtekunst-frankfurt.de
You might be wondering what “applied art” is. Not to worry—MfAK will set you straight. Art is everything. Art is the car your parents used to drive, the clothes you’re wearing, the broken umbrella in the bin out front. This place offers a relatively comprehensive collection that immerses you in the everyday life of every continent and every time period (within reason). Check out the modern room, which contains a timeline of chairs—that’s right, chairs—from 1859 to the present. The futuristic new villa, which connects to the original museum by a second-floor bridge, contains furnished rooms representing several different eras, including a Baroque music hall and a Jugendstil dining room.
On the eastern end of the Museumsufer, by the south end of the Eisernersteg footbridge €9, students €4.50. Open Tu 10am-6pm, W 10am-8pm, and Th-Su 10am-6pm.
Frankfurt doesn’t really do “deals.” Hostels are hard to come by, and hotels are mostly full of bankers and businessmen. The West End/Bockenheim area has some more affordable options in a quieter setting, though nightlife is more accessible from Sachsenhausen and near the Hauptbahnhof. The two listed here are relatively cheap and are right near public transportation; for more, visit www.letsgo.com.
FIVE ELEMENTS HOSTEL
HOSTEL $$
Moselstr. 40
069 240 05 885
www.5elementshostel.de
Five Elements is in the middle of Frankfurt’s red light district, so we weren’t expecting much when we visited. Thankfully, we were pleasantly surprised. Every night is special at Five Elements, which offers a free pasta night, free barbecue night, free movie night, and constantly updated list of free surprises. If this weren’t enough, the rooms are superior, with tall metal bunks, plenty of floor space, and huge windows looking out on the skyscrapers. Reserve ahead of time, as Five Elements fills early in the summer.
From the Hauptbahnhof, walk down Kaiserstr., turn left onto Moselstr., then walk across Taunusstr. The hostel is on the right. Free Wi-Fi. Breakfas €4. Linens €1.50. Laptops and bicycles available with deposit. 10% discount with Backpacker Network card. 5- to 7-bed dorms €18-24; singles €36-66; doubles from €50; quads from €72. Reception 24hr.
HAUS DER JUGEND
HOSTEL $$$
Deutschherrnufer 12
069 610 01 50
www.jugendherberge-frankfurt.de
Haus der Jugend has one of the best locations of all the hostels in Frankfurt. It’s located on the river and is only a 5min. walk from Frankfurt’s best sights, including the Altstadt and the Museumsufer, and Sachsenhausen’s nightlife. Unfortunately, Haus der Jugend does have a curfew in place, which limits the awesomeness of its closeness to Sachsenhausen. Despite gorgeous river views, like any hostel with over 400 beds, Haus der Jugend feels more like a hospital than a B&B. Still, anonymity is a small price to pay for good amenities and an unrivaled location.
Bus #46: Frankensteiner Pl. From the bus stop, backtrack a tiny bit to the hostel. Alternatively, take tram 14 to Frankensteiner Pl. and walk west on Deutschherrnufer. The hostel is just before the Alte Brücke. Wi-Fi €5 per day. Breakfast and linens included. Laundry €2. 8- to 10-bed dorms €18; singles €37; doubles €53-63; quads €84-102. Reception 24hr. Curfew 2am.
LIEBIEGHAUS
MUSEUM
Schaumainkai 71
069 650 04 90
www.liebieghaus.de
A museum not solely devoted to art comes as a shock in Frankfurt, but Liebieghaus’s collection of all things Egyptian, Classical, medieval, Renaissance, Baroque, and Rococo makes this museum stand out. After all, one era is just never enough. Some collections are more impressive than others: if you want to fill up on medieval wood sculptures of the Virgin Mary or Roman busts, you’re set, but if you thirst for Egyptian sculpture, you’ll stay thirsty. A climb up the tower leads to several rooms still furnished in the house’s original style, which includes cozy wooden nooks and outstanding views of the Main. If the admission price is asking too much, consider just touring the museum’s grounds: they’re gorgeous, artistic, and free.
Adjacent to the Städel. €7, students €5, family ticket €12, under 12 free. Audio tours €4, students €3. Open Tu 10am-6pm, W-Th 10am-9pm, F-Su 10am-6pm.
FOOD
North of the Main
CAFÉ SÜDEN
CAFE, TAPAS $
Berger Str. 239
069 956 333 00
Süden is an awesomely comfortable cafe in the middle of Bornheim. The cafe’s colorful tables and umbrellas and joyous, slightly drunken banter spill out onto the quiet street. The ambiance could hardly be more pleasant, so we’ll try not to scare you: tapas. At Let’s Go, we don’t often go for tapas unless we’re in Spain. But Süden’s tapas are honest-to-goodness cheap, they’re filling, and they’re delicious. Did we say awesome already? Try the aubergine creme (€3.50), a big bowl of hummus-like cream served with a comfortably large serving of bread. Süden’s mint yogurt sauce is equally delectable: try it with grape leaves (€4) or chorizo (€4.50). If tapas aren’t your thing, Süden also serves up good sandwiches, including tuna and egg for a mere €4.
U4: Bornheim Mitte. From the metro, walk northeast on Berger Str., through the pedestrian-only square. After 3 blocks, Süden is on the left. Tapas €3.50-5. Sandwiches €4-5. Coffee €2-3. Open M-F 8:30am-midnight, Sa 10am-midnight.
KLEINMARKTHALLE
MARKET $
Hasengasse 5-7
069 212 33 696
www.kleinmarkthalle.de
Kleinmarkthalle isn’t just a restaurant. It’s a collection of independent stalls, all competing for your attention under one roof. You get to assemble your own lunch: pick from bakeries, butchers, Middle Eastern specialty shops, and produce stands. Our motto, at least in Kleinmarkthalle, is “try before you buy,” and most of the stalls are all-too-eager to indulge us. After you fill up on free samples of everything from peppered mango to cherries, buy some food for the road. Find enough (mostly raw) meat to feed a small nation, or seek a more civilized meal on the mezzanine, where you can watch the bartering below.
U4 or U5: Römer/Dom. Head toward the Dom and continue north about ½ block past the Museum für Moderne Kunst. Cash only. Open M-F 8am-6pm, Sa 8am-4pm.
ZUR SONNE
GERMAN $$
Berger Str. 312
069 45 93 96
www.zursonne-frankfurt.de
Zur Sonne is the idyllic, über-traditional beer garden you dreamed of finding in Germany: think sausages and dumplings. Despite Sonne’s extremely German atmosphere, veggie food is both available here and thoroughly decent. Try the Vegetarische Gemüsemaultaschen (€7.40). You can stay here practically all night drinking house-made Apfelwein by the pitcher €3.30 per person) and wondering where the sun went. By the time you’ve eaten your second round of Wildgoulash (€13.20), it’ll dawn on you.
U4: Bronheim Mitte. From the metro, walk through the pedestrian-only square and continue northeast onto Berger Str. After 4 blocks, Zur Sonne is on the right. Apfelwein €1.40-7.60. Beer €2.90. Entrees €5.90-14.10. Open M-Sa 5pm-midnight, Su noon-11pm.
DAS LEBEN IST SCHÖN
ITALIAN $$
Hanauer Landstr. 198
069 430 57 870
www.daslebenistschoen.de
Das Leben ist Schön means “Life is beautiful,” and as much as we’d like to believe them, the location of this restaurant makes it a whole lot harder to believe. It’s in the middle of nowhere, surrounded by car dealerships and outlet stores. Still, the restaurant showcases a sea of vintage photographs on the walls, and that’s a beautiful sight. A bite of the piping hot pasta or freshly baked pizza only confirms the sentiment. Tremendously popular among 30-something locals (most of them sans business suit) thanks to its long communal tables and thick-crust pizza, Das Leben ist Schön rings loud and jolly despite the 30min. tram ride you’ll have to take to get here.
Tram 11: Schwedlerstr., then keep heading west ½ block. Pasta €6.80-13. Pizzas €6-9. Salads €3-12. Apfelwein 0.2L €2.20, 0.5L €4. Open M-Sa 11:30am-11pm, Su noon-9pm. Pizza served until midnight F-Sa.
CAFÉ LAUMER
CAFE $$
Bockenheimer Landstr. 67
069 72 79 12
www.cafe-laumer.de
Laumer has set up a display case in front of the cafe showcasing all the ways they can enhance your wedding, and that encapsulates the cafe’s ambiance. Dine on the sunny, plant-filled front patio or in the backyard garden of this celebrated cafe just a few blocks from the university. An older crowd of local businessmen on their lunch breaks enjoys the hearty echt deutsch special of the day (€6.40-9.80), while neighborhood Stammgäste (regulars) read the newspaper, drink coffee (€2.20), and eat generous slices of cake (€2.40-3.20).
U6 or U7: Westend. Head east on Bockenheimer Landstr. The restaurant is on the right. Entrees €4.60-9.80. Breakfast €5-8. Open M-F 8am-7pm, Sa 8:30am-7pm, Su 9:30am-7pm.
South of the Main
SCHIFFER CAFÉ
CAFE $$
Schifferstr. 36
069 61 99 32 21
www.schiffercafe.de
At Schiffer, every new day comes with a new list of yummy daily specials and remarkably few suits attending business lunches. The lack of business folk lends the cafe a personality---we know, unbelievable, right? Schiffer is located directly opposite a small park, and the perimeter of the cafe is lined with little outdoor tables perfect for a coffee and some people watching. Location isn’t everything, though. Schiffer also serves some absurdly good food without Frankfurt prices (scrambled eggs start at €3.40).
U1, U2, U3, or U8: Schweizer Pl. From the metro, walk east on Gutzkowstr. Turn left onto Bodenstedtstr, then turn right onto Schifferstr. The cafe is on the left. Coffee €1.90-3.20. Breakfast €3.20-9.20. Sandwiches €2.40-5.50. Open M-F 8am-8pm, Sa 8am-7pm, Su 9am-7pm.
LA MAISON DU PAIN
FRENCH $$
Schweizer Str. 63
069 61 99 44 81
www.lamaisondupain.de
When you think of France, do you think of the smell of freshly baked bread, of lavender bunches, of wooden furniture? Well, so does the rest of the world, and especially La Maison du Pain. Literally “the house of bread,” this cafe has perfected the usual French stereotype, serving delicious croques (€6.40), quiches (€6.90), tarts (€4.30), and bowls of coffee (cafe au lait, €3.30). After a while, you might get sick of the French music and the whole schtick---seriously, they’ve even decorated the windows with decals of French landscapes---but fortunately, the motif does come with good food.
U1, U2, U3, or U8: Schweizer Pl. From the metro, walk south on Schweizer Str. La Maison is on the left. Breakfast €4.80-9.80. Entrees €6-9. Macaroons €1.30. Open M-F 7:30am-8pm, Sa-Su 8am-8pm.
ADOLF WAGNER
GERMAN $$$
Schweizer Str. 71
069 61 25 65
www.apfelwein-wagner.de
Saucy German dishes and some of the region’s most renowned Apfelwein (0.3L €1.80) keep patrons jolly at this Sachsenhausen icon. Sit with regulars and try some of the Grüne Soße (green sauce) that you keep hearing about, preferably slathered atop the Frankfurter schnitzel (€12). The sauce is creamy and sour, and the wine fills your mouth with a lingering apple aftertaste. As you drink and digest, bask in either of the two sunny courtyards.
U1, U2, or U3: Schweizer Pl., then head south on Schweizerstr. The restaurant is on the left. English menu available. Entrees €7-14. Sausages €4.50-7.50. Open daily 11am-midnight.
NIGHTLIFE
COCOON CLUB
CLUB
Carl-Benz-Str. 21
069 90 02 00
www.cocoon.net
Cocoon is in the middle of nowhere. It’ll cost you €20 to get over here with a taxi (alternatively, you can take a tram), but despite the hassle and the cover, those looking for a legit night out won’t want to miss it. The complex is gigantic and feels kind of like you’re descending into the lair of some monstrous, postmodern spider, and the decor is so weird that it’s impossible not to call this place cool. The main floor, which pumps house music at maximum volume with one of Europe’s best sound systems, is enclosed by a gargantuan white-plastic lattice: the cocoon, where your spasms may metamorphose into dancing. Outside the inner sanctum, expensive cocktail bars greet you at every curve in the halls; two smaller (but still huge) dance floors bump to lighter house blends; and couples get cozy in comfy indentations punched into the cocoon’s exterior. The bouncers are picky about wardrobe, but this is Frankfurt’s premiere club.
U11 or U12: Dieselstr., then walk down Carl-Benz-Str. Cover €10. Cocktails €8-10. Open F-Sa 9pm-6am.
PULSE AND PIPER RED LOUNGE
BAR, CLUB, GLBT
Bleichstr. 38a
069 138 86 802
www.pulse-frankfurt.de
Pulse and Piper features two dance floors, two lounges, a restaurant, and a beer garden. It’s the ultimate all-in-one nightlife paradise. Despite its size, the club maintains some coziness as bartenders greet regulars on their way in. Piper, the smoking section, comprises a separate bar and loads of lounge space and is one of the largest of its kind in Frankfurt. Officially a gay club, Pulse attracts a clientele both gay and straight with its sublimely social spaces and hair-splitting house music that prompts patrons to dance far more wildly than the usual German two-step.
U1, U2, U3, or U8: Eschenheimer Tor. Head northwest on Bleichstr. Pulse and Piper Red Lounge is on the left. Martini Mondays all martini €5. Beer €2.50-3.80. Cocktails €8-10, happy hour €4-5. Restaurant entrees €6-22. Pulse open M-Th 11am-1am, F 11am-4am, Sa 10am-4am, Su 10am-1am. Piper Lounge (entry within Pulse) open daily 6pm and closes with Pulse. Happy hour M-W 7-9pm, Th 6pm-1am, F-Su 7-9pm. Kitchen open until 11pm.
KING KAMEHAMEHA
CLUB
Hafeninsel 2
069 480 03 790
www.king-kamehameha.de
King Kamehameha, much like Cocoon, is in the middle of nowhere, but at least it’s less in the middle of nowhere. This place lies in Frankfurt’s southeast industrial district, where business folk shop for their new kitchen interiors and schmancy new Benz cars by day. Devastatingly loud house music from seasoned DJs threatens to shake this former brewery (with smokestack still standing) to the ground on Friday and Saturday nights, while Thursdays feature the renowned King Kamehameha Club Band, which ignites crowds with everything from ’60s dance hits to top 40. Next to the packed main dance floor, a partially covered “garden” is the perfect place to take a break from the dancing, drinking, and steam.
Tram 11: Schwedlerstr. From the tram stop, head northeast on Hanauer Landstr. and turn into the alleyway next to Das Leben ist Schön. The club is set far back from the street, in the building with the brick smokestack. Cover €10. Shots €4. Beer €4-5. Cocktails €10. Cash only. Open Th 9pm-4am, F-Sa 10pm-5am. Open on select W; check the website for a calendar of events.
ESSENTIALS
Practicalities
• TOURIST OFFICES: Hauptbahnhof. (069 212 38 800. Near the main exit, next to the car rental. Brochures, tours, and map €0.50-1. Books rooms for a €3 fee; free if you call or email ahead. Open M-F 8am-9pm, Sa-Su 9am-6pm.) Alternate location at Römerberg 27. ( Open M-F 9:30am-5:30pm, Sa-Su 10am-4pm.)
• CURRENCY EXCHANGE: ReiseBank in the Hauptbahnhof has slightly worse-than-average rates but, unlike most banks, stays open on Saturday. (069 24278591 Go down the stairs inside the main entrance and walk down the hallway to the right. Open M-F 7am-6:30pm, Sa 10am-6pm.) Deutsche Bank. ( Across the street from the Hauptbahnhof. Open M-Th 9am-1pm and 2-5pm, F 9am-1pm and 2-4pm.) Germany’s only remaining American Express branch exchanges currency, handles traveler’s checks, and arranges hotel and rental car reservations. (Theodor-Heuss-Allee 112 069 979 71 000 Open M-F 9:30am-6pm, Sa 10am-2pm.)
• RESOURCES FOR WOMEN: Frauennotruf is a hotline for female victims of sexual violence or abuse. (069 70 94 94 www.frauennotruf-frankfurt.de Open M 9am-1pm and 3-5pm, Tu 9am-1pm, W 9am-1pm and 6-8pm, Th-F 9am-1pm.)
• GLBT RESOURCES: The Switchboard is home to a popular bar/cafe, Café der AIDS-Hilfe Frankfurt, run by a local AIDS foundation. (Alte Gasse 36 069 29 59 59 www.frankfurt-aidshilfe.de/ag36/switchboard. Cafe 069 28 35 35. Take the U- or S-Bahn to Konstablerwache, walk west on Zeil briefly, and take the 1st left onto Großer Friedberger Str., which becomes Alte Gasse. Anonymous AIDS testing M 5-7:30pm, €15. Cafe open Sept-Jun Tu-Th 7pm-midnight, F-Sa 7pm-1am, Su 2-11pm; Jul-Aug M-Th 7pm-midnight, F-Sa 7pm-1am, Su 7-11pm.)
• LAUNDROMATS: Wash-World. (Moselstr. 17 061 015 565 910 U4, U5, S1-S6, S8, or S9: Hauptbahnhof. From the metro, walk northeast on Kaiserstr. and take the 1st right on Moselstr. The laundromat is on the right. Wash €3.50, dry €1 per 15min.) SB Waschsalon. (Wallstr. 8, near Haus der Jugend in Sachsenhausen. Wash €3.50, dry €0.50 per 10min. Open daily 6am-11pm.)
• INTERNET ACCESS: Plenty of Internet-Telefon stores can be found on Kaiserstr., directly across from the Hauptbahnhof. Starbucks offers unlimited free Wi-Fi without a password, so you don’t even need to buy an expensive drink. Visit Kaiserstr. 26 ( Open M-F 7am-8pm, Sa-Su 9am-7pm), Braubachstr. 36 ( Open M-F 7:30am-9:30pm, Sa 8:30am-9:30pm, Su 9am-9pm), or An der Hauptwache 7. ( Open M-Th 8am-9pm, F 8am-10pm, Sa 9am-10pm, Su 10am-8pm.) CybeRyder. (Töngesgasse 31 069 91396 754 www.cyberyder.de Internet €1.30 per 15min. Drinks €1.60-3. Open M-F 9:30am-10pm, Sa 10am-10pm, Su noon-9pm.)
• POST OFFICE: Inside the Hauptbahnhof, opposite track 22. ( Open M-F 7am-7pm, Sa 9am-4pm.) Second location on Goethpl. ( Open M-F 9:30am-7pm, Sa 9am-2pm.)
• POSTAL CODE: 60313.
Emergency
• EMERGENCY: 110. Fire and Ambulance: 112.
• POLICE: Adickesallee 70. (069 755 00.) U1 or U2: Miquel Adickesallee. From the metro, head east on Adickesallee. The station is on the left.
• PHARMACY: Apotheke im Hauptbahnhof (Station’s Einkaufspassage 069 23 30 47 Take the escalators heading down toward the S- or U-Bahn trains, then turn left. Open M-F 6:30am-9pm, Sa 8am-9pm, Su 9am-8pm.) Adler Apotheke. (Neue Kräme 33 069 283 525 From the Römer, walk north along the square past Subway, cross Berliner Str., and continue north on Neue Kräme. The pharmacy is on the left at the end of the block. A sign in the window lists the schedule of after-hours emergency service. Open 8am-7pm, Sa 9am-4pm.)
Getting There
By Plane
The Frankfurt Airport (0180 537 24 636 www.frankfurt-airport.de) is the gateway to Germany for thousands of travelers from all over the world. From the airport, S-Bahn trains S8 and S9 travel to the Hauptbahnhof every 15min. ( Buy tickets from the green Fahrkarten machines before boarding. Tickets €3.90.) Most public transportation and trains to major cities depart from Airport Terminal 1. Take the free bus (every 15min.) or walk through the skyway to reach the terminal from the main airport. Taxis to the city center (€20) can be found outside every terminal.
By Train
The Hauptbahnhof is on the west side of the city, close to the Main. (0180 599 66 33 Visit www.bahn.de for reservations and information.) Trains leaving from Frankfurt go to: Berlin (€90-120 5hr., every hr.); Dresden (€82-87 5hr., every hr.); Heidelberg €19-26 1½hr., every hr.); Köln (€40-60 1-2hr., 2 per hr.); Munich (€91 3½hr., every hr.); Amsterdam (€70-130 4-7hr., every 2hr.); Basel (€75 3hr., every 2hr.); and Paris (€110-120 4-5hr., 6 per day).
By Rideshare
Mitfahrzentrale arranges rides to Berlin (€20); Köln (€11); Munich (€15); Amsterdam (€20); Vienna (€24); and other cities. (Stuttgarterstr. 13 069 19440 www.mfz.de Take a right on Baselerstr. at the side exit of the Hauptbahnhof on track 1 and walk 2 blocks toward the river. Open M-F 9:30am-5:30pm, Sa 10am-2pm.)
Getting Around
By Public Transportation
Buy tickets from the green-blue Fahrkarten machines before boarding the metro; tickets are automatically validated upon purchase. Einzelfahrkarte (single-ride) tickets are valid for 1hr. after purchase. Check to see if your destination qualifies for a Kurzstrecke (“short-stretch” ticket) by looking through the stops at the top of the machine and then punching in the appropriate number before selecting your ticket. For rides within Frankfurt, use the code “50” (€2.40, children €1.40; short rides €1.50, children €1; day tickets €6, children €3.60, group of up to 5 adults €9.50). Failure to buy a ticket results in a €40 fine, and Frankfurt is notorious for checking, especially during rush hour.
By Taxi
Try Taxi Frankfurt (069 230 01 or 069 230 033), Time Car GmbH (069 20 304), or SGS Taxi (069 793 07 999).
By Boat
Several companies offer tours of the Main that depart the Mainkai on the river’s northern bank near the Römerberg. Check out KD. (069 285 728 www.k-d.com €7.50 per person, under 13 €5. 1hr. Apr-Oct daily 10:30am, noon, 2pm, 3:30pm, 5pm, and 6:30pm.) Primus-Linie (069 133 83 70 www.primus-linie.de) cruises to a long list of towns along the Main, making for great day trips.
By Bike
Frankfurt has an excellent network of bike paths, and, with few cobblestones outside of the Altstadt, biking is a fun and easy way to find those harder-to-reach places. Just watch out for Mercedes-driving businessmen: they won’t stop. Deutsche Bahn (DB) runs the citywide bike rental, Call a Bike. Look for the bright red bikes with the DB logo in racks throughout the city. Retrieve unlocking code by phone or online. (07000 522 55 22 www.callabike.de €0.08 per min., €15 per day, or €45 per week.) NextBike is similar, but you must return bikes to specific locations throughout the city. (030 692 05 046 www.nextbike.de Check the website for a map of locations. €1 per hr., €8 per day.)
munich
If you ask the average traveler about this Bavarian capital, you’ll hear beer, beer, and more beer. The birthplace of Oktoberfest, Munich is the third largest city in Germany (pop. 1,380,00) and one of the country’s most expensive. It’s difficult to believe that this affluent, beer-soaked city is where the Nazi NSDAP Party had its first headquarters. Hitler’s first attempt to seize power took place in Munich, and the Führer himself spoke at some of the beer halls that you can still visit today. The first Nazi concentration camp, Dachau, is just 30min. away from the city. Today, Munich is trying to put much of this history behind it and has become a thriving center of European commerce, with world-class museums, parks, and architecture. Salzburg (only 1½hr. away by train) is a popular daytrip for many Munchkins—er, Müncheners—and the fairytale castle of Neuschwanstein is a major tourist attraction.
ORIENTATION
City Center
The city center is the hub of all tourist activity in Munich. Many of the city’s historical sights and brand-name stores are packed into the few blocks between Marienpl. and Odeonspl. For the stereotypical Bavarian experience, struggle through the throngs of international camera-flashers for a night at the famous Hofbräuhaus and a stroll through the Residenzmuseum. There’s a long pedestrian zone between Marienpl. and Karlspl., a square with fountains that is popularly known as “Stachus.” South of Marienpl., bustling, yuppie Isarvorstadt is home to Munich’s GLBT district. To the west, Theresienwiesen borders on the huge Oktoberfest field. Backpacker hostels cluster around the Hauptbahnhof, Munich’s central train station, which is north of Theresienwiesen.
University Area
“University area” is the common nickname for the districts of Schwabing and Maxvorstadt, immediately north of the city center. Maxvorstadt is home to Kunstareal, the city’s museum district, and Königspl., a former Nazi stronghold. Schwabing, to the north, is a student’s dream district; Ludwig-Maximilian Universität intellectuals fill the area’s cozy bars and restaurants. West of Schwabing, everything goes greener with the charming Englischer Garten, where you’ll find Munich’s beloved beer garden by the Chinesischer Turm (Chinese Pagoda).
Olympic Area
The 1972 Munich Olympics was Germany’s chance to prove itself in the international spotlight after the racist disasters that had devastated the 1936 Berlin Olympics under the Nazis. But the Munich games were overshadowed by the killing of 11 Israeli athletes by Palestinian terrorists. Now known as the Munich Massacre, the attack was the subject of Steven Spielberg’s 2005 film Munich. Today, you can visit the Olympiapark and marvel at the site of the Games. The imposing Olympiaturm (Olympic Tower) is the highest point in all of Munich, and the iconic Olympiastadion’s (Olympic Stadium) curtains of acrylic glass drape over lime green seats. The enormous shopping mall, Olympia-Einkaufszentrum, is west of the park.
Au-Haidhausen
These two neighborhoods, located across the Isar river, housed laborers before WWII bombing nearly demolished Au (Haidhausen was left surprisingly intact). Today, these regions play a large role in Munich’s cultural scene. The Gasteig cultural complex contains the Munich Philharmonic, a conservatory, the main branch of the public library, and an experimental theater. Giant clubs surround the Ostbahnhof station—talk about being on the right side of the tracks.
Neuhausen
Neuhausen remains one of Munich’s hidden gems, relatively undiscovered by tourists. Take tram 17 toward Amalienburgstr. and you’ll find some of Munich’s prettiest landscapes, from the world’s largest beer garden at Hirschgarten to the extravagant Schloss Nymphenburg. For a more urban feel, head to Rotkreuzpl. and meander down Nymphenburgstr. for the city’s best cafes.
SIGHTS
City Center
MARIENPLATZ
SQUARE
Marienpl. 1
The pedestrian area around Marienpl. is the heart of Munich. Its name comes from the Mariensäule, a 17th-century monument to the Virgin Mary that sits at the center of the large square as a tribute to the city’s miraculous survival of the Swedish invasion and the plague. The square is dominated by the impressively ornate Neo-Gothic Neues Rathaus, or new city hall, which was built in the early 20th century. Camera-toting tourists gawk at its central tower during the thrice-daily Glockenspiel mechanical chimes displays, which may be one of the most underwhelming tourist attractions you’ll ever see and hear. At the eastern end of the square, the Altes Rathaus (Old Town Hall) houses a small and boring toy museum.
S1, S2, S3, S4, S5, S6, S7, S8, U3 or U6: Marienpl. Glockenspiel displays in summer 11am, noon, and 5pm; in winter 11am and noon.
ALTER PETER (SAINT PETER’S CHURCH)
CHURCH
Rindermarkt 1
089 210 237 760
As the poster inside explains, Alter Peter was severely damaged during World War II. The Gothic-inspired church was then meticulously rebuilt, but most of the interior walls remain plain and white. However, you can still see an original cannonball lodged in the church wall (behind the church, take the steps leading up to Cafe Rischart and look around the top right corner of the window frame). Check out the freakish, gem-studded skeleton of St. Munditia, exhibited in a glass case that looks more like a diamond ad gone wrong than holy remains. The church’s tower offers a bird’s-eye view of Munich and is definitely worth climbing. However, the ascent to the (almost) heavens is challenging, as the staircase of 306 steps is too narrow for two-way traffic. Watch out for others and observe the decades of cool signatures and stickers on the walls.
S1, S2, S3, S4, S5, S6, S7, S8, U3 or U6: Marienpl. Church free. Tower €1.50, students and children €1. Cash only. Tower open in summer M-F 9am-6:30pm, Sa-Su 10am-6:30pm.; in winter M-F 9am-5:30pm, Sa-Su 10am-5:30pm.
RESIDENZ MUSEUM AND HOFGARTEN
MUSEUM
Residenzstr. 1
089 26 06 71
www.residenz-muenchen.de
The 130-room Residenz palace, once home to Bavarian dukes and electors, is now a museum that takes the word “excess” to new dimensions, with mirrors, porcelain, and blinding gold leaves galore. Highlights include the ancestral gallery, hung with over 100 family portraits tracing the royal lineage, and the spectacular Renaissance antiquarium, replete with stunning frescoes. A separate ticket is needed for the Treasury, full of shiny expensive stuff.
U3, U4, U5, or U6: Odeonspl. Residenz and treasury each €7, students €5, under 18 free; combined Residenz and treasury ticket €11/9/free; Cuvilliés Theater €3.50/2.50/free; combination Residenz, treasury, and theater €13/10.50/free. Audio tours included. Residenz and Treasury open Apr-Oct daily 9am-6pm; Oct-March 10am-5pm. Last entry 1hr. before close. Theater open Apr-Jul M-Sa 2-6pm, Su 9am-6pm; Aug-Sept daily 9am-6pm; Sept-Oct M-Sa 2-6pm, Su 9am-6pm; Oct-Mar M-Sa 2-5pm, Su 10am-5pm.
University Area
PINAKOTHEKEN
MUSEUMS
Barrerstr.
089 23 80 52 16
www.pinakothek.de
Don’t let the whole “five museums” thing scare you away from Pinakotheken: think of all these museums as just one giant and super impressive art gallery. The five buildings are part of the Kunstareal, a museum district in Maxvorstadt that comprises the majority of Munich’s art museums. Start with Alte Pinakothek, the one with the collection that some would affectionately call “boring, old art” (14th- to 17th-century art, including works of European masters such as da Vinci and Dürer). What’s surprisingly cool is that the whole collection is arranged in one giant hallway of multiple rooms, so you can really experience how much art changed over the course of 300 years. The Pinakotheken can be a lot of art all at once, so consider visiting over several days or run (not literally) through the museums on Sundays, when admission is only €1.
U2: Theresienstr. Walk east on Theresienstr. until you see the big museum complex. Museum Brandhorst, Alte, and Neue Pinakothek each €7, students €5; Pinakothek der Moderne €10/7; Sammlung Schack €4/3; 1-day pass to all 5 €12/9; 5-entry pass €29. All museums €1 on Su. Alte Pinakothek open Tu 10am-8pm, W-Su 10am-6m. Neue Pinakothek open M 10am-6pm, W 10am-8pm, Th-Su 10am-6pm. Pinakothek der Moderne open Tu-W 10am-6pm, Th 10am-8pm, F-Su 10am-6pm. Museum Brandhorst open Tu-W 10am-6pm, Th 10am-8pm, F-Su 10am-6pm. Sammlung Schack open daily 10am-6pm.
ENGLISCHER GARTEN
PARK
Strolling through the open emerald fields and leafy paths of the enormous Englischer Garten may be one of the most relaxing things you can do on a summer day in the city. The park is one of the largest metropolitan public parks in the world, dwarfing both Central Park in New York and Hyde Park in London. The amazingly healthy residents of Munich do everything from walk their dogs, ride their bikes, and bathe in the sun here. Some choose to do this last activity in the nude, in areas designated FKK or Frei Körper Kultur (“Free Body Culture”). There are also several beer gardens here, but the most famous one surrounds a wooden Chinese pagoda. In the southern part of the garden, a former Nazi art exhibition space, Haus der Kunst (Prinzregentenst.1 089 21 12 71 13 www.hausderkunst.de), is now Munich’s premier venue for contemporary art, with changing international and domestic exhibitions.
U3: Universität, Giselastr., or Münchner Freiheit. Park free. Haus der Kunst €5-12. Student discounts available. Haus der Kunst open M-W 10am-8pm, Th 10am-10pm, F-Su 10am-8pm.
As a city of beer, Munich sees its fair share of young philanthropists looking to aid the local industry. With that comes a proliferation of clean and reasonably priced hostels smack in the city center. Here are a couple noteworthy places to rest your head; for more, visit www.letsgo.com.
WOMBATS
HOSTEL $$$
Senefelderstr. 1
089 59 98 91 80
www.wombats-hostels.com/munich
A party hostel par excellence, Wombats is always hopping. The free drink voucher you receive at check-in gets you started with a small beer at the “WomBar” downstairs, while quieter types can hang out in lovely hammocks in the courtyard garden. All rooms have private bathrooms and high-tech key card lockers, and the hostel’s custom city map is a big plus.
S1, S2, S3, S4, S5, S6, S8, U1, U2, U4, or U5: Hauptbahnhof. Exit at Bayerst., cross the street, and continue to Senefelderstr. If you’re facing the station, it’s on the left. Free Wi-Fi in the lobby. Breakfas €3.80. Linens included. Computer use €0.50 per 20min. Dorms €22-29; doubles €38-40. Reception 24hr. Happy hour daily 6-8pm and midnight-1am.
EURO YOUTH HOTEL
HOSTEL $$
Senefelderstr. 5
089 59 90 88 11
www.euro-youth-hotel.de
Euro Youth Hotel has one of the most luxurious reception and common areas in the city. The 12-person dorms are surprisingly cheap, so make sure to book in advance, as beds fill up very early. The lounge and its wrap-around bar are the site of many entertaining nights, which range from quizzes to ’80s dances to karaoke.
S1, S2, S3, S4, S5, S6, S8, U1, U2, U4, or U5: Hauptbahnhof. Exit the station at Bayerst., cross the street, and continue to Senefelderstr. Free Wi-Fi. Breakfas €4.50; included for private rooms. Linens included. 12-bed dorms €15-20; smaller dorms €19-28. Private rooms available. Reception 24hr. Happy hour M-Tu 6-9pm, W 6-10pm, Th-Su 6-9pm.
THE TENT
CAMPGROUND $
In den Kirschen 30
089 141 43 00
www.the-tent.com
When Munich prepared to host the 1972 Olympics, the government kicked out all the hippies camping out at the English Garden, who then skipped out to the northeast corner of town to set up permanent camp here. So the not-for-profit Tent was born. Two tents are filled with bunk beds, while the third makes space for the bravest travels: those who sleep on a thin, rainbow-colored mat on the floor. This is by far the cheapest place to stay in Munich.
Tram 17: Botanischer Garten. Take a right onto Franz-Schrankstr. and a left at the end of the street. Free Wi-Fi. Lockers available. Floor spac €7.50 (including floor pad and blankets); beds €11. Camping €5.50 per person; €5.50 per tent. Bike rental €9 per day. Cash only. Reception 24hr. Open Jun-Oct.
KÖNIGSPLATZ
SQUARE
The Königsplatz was comissioned by King Ludwig I to be Munich’s tribute to Greek and Roman antiquity. During the Third Reich, the Nazis, who also admired ancient Rome, made the square their headquarters and used the large roads for rallies. The infamous book burning of 1933 took place here, and the famous Munich Accord was signed in Hitler’s “Führerbau,” just east of the square (strangely, the building is now home to a music and theater university). The square is not just for squares though; on sunny days, dozens of people spend their time just chilling on the stairs or sunbathing in the large grassy fields.
U2: Königspl. Glyptothek and Antikensammlungen each €3.50, students €2.50; combined ticket €5.50/3.50. Every Su €1. Antikensammlungen open Tu 10am-5pm, W 10am-8pm, Th-Su 10am-5pm. Glyptothek open Tu-W 10am-5pm, Th 10am-8pm, F-Su 10am-5pm.
Olympic Area
BMW WELT AND MUSEUM
MUSEUM
Am Olympiapark 1
018 02 11 88 22
www.bmw-welt.com
Do you know what BMW stands for? Regardless of your answer, you must stop by the BMW Welt and Museum. (BMW stands for “Bayerische Motoren Werke,” by the way.) The amazing, futuristic architecture of the entire BMW complex alone would make your visit worthwhile. However, you can also jump into all sorts of cars, play racing computer games, and watch shows of handsome Germans driving motorcycles up and down stairs while you’re here. And this is only in the BMW Welt, which is the car company’s showcase. The museum is almost as cool (although perhaps not as interactive), with state-of-the-art exhibits detailing the history, development, and design of Bavaria’s second-favorite export. Frosted glass walls and touch-sensitive projections lead visitors past engines, chassis, and concept vehicles with exhibits in both English and German. Visitors can also make reservations to tour the adjacent production factory, with a tunnel that runs through the entire assembly line.
U3: Olympiazentrum. BMW Welt is the large steel structure visible upon exiting the metro; the museum is located across the street. Factory and BMW Welt tours available only with a reservation. BMW Welt free. Museum €9, students €6, family €12. Special discounts with Olympiapark ticket or the City Tour Card. BMW Welt open daily 7:30am-midnight. Museum open Tu-Su 10am-6pm; last entry 5:30pm. 2 factory tours in English daily 11:30am and either noon or 4pm.
OLYMPIAPARK
SPORTS COMPLEX
Olympiapark
089 30 67 24 14
www.olympiapark.de
Built for the 1972 Olympic Games, the lush Olympiapark contrasts with the curved steel and transparent spires of the Olympic Stadium and the 290m Olympiaturm, Munich’s tallest tower. The Olympic area (including the stadium) can be accessed for free, but you can buy a self-guided audio tour for in-depth information about the various structures. Otherwise, three English-language tours are available. The Adventure Tour gets you into many of the buildings and introduces you to Olympiapark’s history; the Stadium Tour focuses just on the stadium; and the Roof Climb lets you unleash your inner Spider-Man and climb the stadium’s roof with a rope and a hook. The building where Palestinian terrorists captured Israeli athletes during the Munich Massacre is in the northern half of the park (Connellystr. 31).
U3: Olympiazentrum. Audio tours and tickets for tours can be purchased at the information desk in the southeast corner of the park (close to the ice rink). Audio tour €7, deposit €50. Adventure Tour €8, students €5.50. Unguided entrance to stadium €3. Stadium Tour €7.50, students €5. Roof climb €41, students €31. Tower and Rock Museum €5.50, under 16 €3.50. Admission includes discounts at Sea Life and the BMW Museum. Tours offered daily Apr-Nov. Adventure Tour 2pm. Stadium Tour 11am. Roof Climb 2:30pm (weather permitting). Tower and Rock Museum open daily 9am-midnight. Audio tour available 9am-5pm, but can be returned any time before 11:30pm.
Au-Haidhausen
DEUTSCHES MUSEUM
MUSEUM
Museumsinsel 1
089 217 91
www.deutsches-museum.de
An hour or so in the Deutsches Museum will teach you more than all your introductory science classes combined. This incredible museum presents you with the power of German engineering—prepare for everything from key mechanisms, musical instruments, and oil rigs to timekeeping microchips and the frontiers of nanotechnology. Reading all the explanations throughout the giant rooms, spread over eight floors, is impossible for us mere mortals, but anywhere you go, you’re guaranteed to find something mindboggling. Before you think you’ve had enough knowledge for the day, be sure to check out the claustrophobic mining exhibit, which is appropriately situated in the basement.
S1, S2, S3, S4, S5, S6, S7, S8: Isartor. On the island between the city center and the Au neighborhood. From the metro, head toward the river, cross onto the island, and turn right €8.50, students €3, children under 6 free. Cash only. Open daily 9am-5pm.
Neuhausen
SCHLOSS NYMPHENBURG
PALACE
Schloss Nymphenburg
089 17 90 80
www.schloss-nymphenburg.de
This palace was supposedly modeled after Versailles and built in 1675 for Bavarian royalty. The main building, the lavish, three-story Stone Hall, has all your typical, intricate frescoed ceilings and enormous dangling chandeliers, but the real charm of this property is the enormous, gorgeous garden. Few tourists venture beyond the space immediately behind the castle, so the area with four ornate pavilions (Amelienburg, Badenburg, Magdaleneklause, and Pagodenburg) remains peaceful. Highlights of the property include the bedroom in which King Ludwig II was born and the Gallery of Beauties, featuring portraits of the 36 women whom King Ludwig I considered to be the most beautiful in Bavaria (our favorite is Helene Sedlmeyr). Summertime brings classical concerts to the park grounds; check kiosks for details.
Tram 17: Schloss Nymphenburg. Palace €6, students €5. Porcelain and carriage museums €4.50, students €3.50; pavilions €4.50/3.50; combination ticket €11.50/9. Audio tour €3.50. Gardens free. Museum Mensch und Natur €3, students €2, Su €1. Complex open daily Apr-Oct 9am-6pm; Oct-Mar 10am-4pm. Badenburg, Pagodenburg, and Magdalenklause closed in winter. Museum Mensch und Natur open Tu-W 9am-5pm, Th 9am-8pm, F 9am-5pm, Sa-Su 10am-6pm.
Outside Munich
NEUSCHWANSTEIN CASTLE
CASTLE
Schwangau, near Füssen
083 62 93 08 30
www.neuschwanstein.de
Depending on who you ask, Neuschwanstein Castle is either a gorgeous, fairytale fortress or a 19th-century, Disney-esque castle that borders walks a fine line between cool and kitschy. We definitely don’t deny the charms of the white Neuschwanstein, or “New Swan Rock,” castle, which was commissioned by King Ludwig II and is perched precariously on a hilltop in the beautiful Bavarian Alps. The only way to get inside the castle, which is almost completely covered in paintings of scenes from Wagner’s operas, is with a 30min. guided tour. No visit to this castle is complete without a walk across Marienbrücke, a slightly rickety wooden bridge across a waterfall that leads to a stunning side view of Neuschwanstein.
Take the 2hr. DB train to Füssen (every hr.; €21 for Bayern ticket, €50 round trip normal ticket). Walk right across the street and take either the #73 or #78 bus to the last stop, Schwangau (10min.; free with Bayern ticket or €1.90 1-way). To get to the castle from the bus stop, you can either walk up the hill (40min.), take a bus (10min.; up €1.80, down €1, round trip €2.60), or take a horse-drawn carriage (15min.; up €6, down €3). Check the schedule of buses going back to Füssen—they leave every hr., synchronized with train departures. The main ticket office is approximately 100m uphill from the #78bus stop. English tours are frequent, but earlier tours sell out quickly; it’s a good idea to book in advance €1.80 surcharge). Guided tours of Neuschwanstein €12, students €8, under 18 free; Hohenschwangau €10.50/8/free; combined ticket €23, students €21. Castle open Apr-Sept daily 9am-6pm; Oct-Mar 10am-4pm. Ticket office open Apr-Sept daily 8am-5pm; Oct-Mar 9am-3pm.
DACHAU CONCENTRATION CAMP MEMORIAL SITE
MEMORIAL SITE
Alte Römerstr. 75, Dachau
081 31 66 99 70
www.kz-gedenkstaette-dachau.de
The first thing prisoners saw as they entered Dachau was the inscription “Arbeit Macht Frei” (“Work will set you free”) on the camp’s iron gate. One of the most moving parts of the memorial site is actually part of the audio guide: survivors tell their life stories and the unimaginably inhumane life in the camp. The barracks, originally designed for 5000 prisoners, once held 30,000 at a time—two have been reconstructed for visitors, and gravel-filled outlines of the others stand as haunting reminders. It is impossible to prepare yourself for the camp’s crematorium, which has been restored to its original appearance. The museum at the Dachau Memorial Site, in the former maintenance building, examines pre-1930s anti-Semitism, the rise of Nazism, the establishment of the concentration camps, and the lives of prisoners.
S2 (dir.: Petershausen): Dachau (30min.; 4 stripes on the Streifenkarte, free with Munich XXL ticket). Then, take bus #726 (dir.: Saubachsiedlung): KZ-Gedenkstätte (1 stripe on the Streifenkarte; €1.20, or free with Munich XXL ticket). All displays have English translations. Museum and memorial grounds free. Audio tours €3.50, students €2.50. Tours €3 per person. Memorial grounds open daily. Museum and information office open Tu-Su 9am-5pm. Tours 2½hr. in English daily 11am and 1pm; in German noon. Documentary 22min. in German 11am and 3pm; in English 11:30am, 2pm, and 3:30pm.
FOOD
City Center
CAFE RISCHART
CAFE $
Marienpl. 18
089 231 70 03 20
www.rischart.de
Budget travelers can always count on Cafe Rischart: it’s cheap, fast, and simple. There are two cafes on Marienplatz that have touristy outside seating areas, but there are also multiple locations at subway stops and train stations where even locals stop by to grab something to go. The delicious sandwiches are made from mouthwatering bread, with plenty of tasty German or Italian fillings inside (€3-4). A scoop of gelato (€1.20) is also obligatory on sunny days.
S1, S2, S3, S4, S5, S6, S7, S8, U3, or U6: Marienpl. Locations on the southeast corner of the square and behind Alter Peter. Coffee €1.80-3. Cash only. Open M-Sa 6:45am-9pm, Su 9am-9pm.
ZUM AUGUSTINER
GERMAN $$$
Neuhauserstr. 27
089 23 18 32 57
www.augustiner-restaurant.com
Augustiner beer halls and beer gardens are an essential part of Munich, but that doesn’t take away from the bustling milieu created by the happy voices of tourists and locals here. Get your hearty German standards here, but don’t forget about the delicious Weissbier. If you’re really hungry, go for the gravy-laden roasted pork with a giant potato dumpling and sauerkraut. Enjoy the subdued beer hall ambience in the main hall, in the picturesque courtyard, or at one of the busy street tables—but beware, those pretzels on the table cost €1.
S1, S2, S3, S4, S5, S6, S7, S8, U4, or U5: Karlspl. Walk past the fountain and under the arches to Neuhauserstr.; restaurant is on the right. Multilingual menu. Entrees €5-19. Open daily 10am-midnight.
University Area
BAR TAPAS
TAPAS $$
Amalienstr. 97
089 39 09 19
www.bar-tapas.com
Grab a pen and a slip of paper from the bar and write down your selections from the displays of tapas at this romantic Iberian outpost. We recommend the spicy chorizo and the tortilla pie with cheese, potatoes, and onions. At lunch time, Bar Tapas offers cheap bocadillos, tortillas, and tacos (€4.80-7.80). If you’re in the neighborhood but don’t feel like Spanish food, just walk around Amalienstr. and Türkenstr., which are packed with small restaurants and cafes.
U3 or U6: Universität. Turn left onto Adalbertstr. Tapas €4.30. Cocktails €5 after 10:30pm. Open daily 11:30am-1am.
CAFE IGNAZ
VEGETARIAN $$
Georgenstr. 67
089 271 60 93
www.ignaz-cafe.de
Cafe Ignaz is a vegetarian oasis in the land of pork and beef. It’s also just an oasis in general, as all of the locals from the neighboring streets seem to be packed into the two small rooms and outdoor seating area. The narrow passage that connects these two areas has a counter filled with gorgeous cakes and sweet and salty pastries that you can purchase for takeaway. Otherwise, the vegetarian and vegan cafe serves gnocchi, risotto, crepes, and more, all perfect antidotes to Bavarian cuisine. Every meal comes with a free cake, which may be either sweet or made from vegetables.
U2: Josephspl. Take Georgenstr. east for 3 blocks. English-language menu. Entrees €9.90. Breakfast buffet €7, includes hot drink. Lunch buffet €5.90. Brunch buffet €9.90. Open M 8am-11pm, W-Su 8am-11pm. Breakfast buffet M 8-11:30am, W-F 8-11:30am. Lunch buffet M noon-2:30pm, W-F noon-2:30pm. Brunch buffet Sa-Su 9am-2pm. Happy hour M-F 3-6pm.
Au-Haidhausen
CAFÉ VOILÀ
CAFE $$$
Wörthstr. 5
089 489 16 54
www.cafe-voila.de
Looking for a perfect place for a delicious Italian-Bavarian breakfast cafe? Before you shout “Voilà!” after happening upon this popular establishment, we recommend that you make a reservation, especially on the weekends. Café Voilà is lovely for sitting outside at any time of the day, but the enormous traditional interior with large mirrors is just as nice on rainy days. After breakfast, the cafe offers reasonably priced, three-course lunch menus, along with burgers, pasta, and salads. A selection of some 60 cocktails (€5 during happy hour) attracts customers in the evening.
S1, S2, S3, S4, S5, S6, S7, S8, or U5: Ostbahnhof. Exit onto Wörthstr. and walk 1 block past the small park between the roads. Breakfast €4-11. Entrees €5.50-16. Beer €2.80-3.50. Cash only. Open M-Th 8am-1am, F-Sa 8am-late, Su 8am-1am. Happy hour M-Tu 5pm-1am, W-Sa 5-8pm and 11pm-1am, Su 5pm-1am.
WIRTSHAUS IN DER AU
GERMAN $$$
Lillienstr. 51
089 448 14 00
www.wirtshausinderau.de
Wirtshaus in der Au, on the “other side” of the Isar, is a beautiful, traditional Bavarian restaurant both in decor and in taste. Farther from the touristy crowds, the restaurant’s enormous interior and impressively large outdoor area is perfect for large groups. And we’re still not done admiring Wirtshaus’ size: the establishment also claims to serve the largest dumplings in all of Munich, both in girth and variety. During Oktoberfest, they have a tent with 26 different varieties; during the rest of the year, there’s usually five to pick from. Try the tomato olive dumpling filled with mozzarella, with a side of marinated eggplant.
Tram 18: Deutsches Museum. Cross the bridge, head past Museum Lichtspiele, and turn right onto Lillienstr. English menu available. Entrees €7.80-17. Maß €6.90. Open M-F 5pm-midnight, Sa-Su 10am-midnight.
Neuhausen
RUFFINI
CAFE $$
Orffstr. 22-24
089 16 11 60
www.ruffini.de
The plain white walls, straight lines, large mirrors, and stacks of simple, clear glasses makes this enchanting cafe a nice break from the (also awesome) Bavarian over-decoration. This cooperative cafe, located on a quiet residential street, buzzes with locals chatting or reading the morning paper. Order a frothy cappuccino and a flaky croissant and take them to the sunny terrace upstairs. For lunch, there are many vegetarian options, and the meat dishes usually comes from eco-friendly sources. Ruffini is owned collectively by over two dozen people, ranging from designers to policemen who all put in hours working at the cafe. If you’re in a hurry, you can also stop by the small bakery that sells beautiful cakes and fancy wines.
Tram 12: Neuhausen. Turn perpendicular to tram route so that the park is to the left. The cafe is 2 blocks down Ruffinistr. Rooftop terrace is self-service. Small bakery attached; enter on Ruffinistr. Breakfast €5.80-8.50. Dinner €4-14. Cash only. Cafe open Tu-Su 10am-midnight. Shop open Tu-F 8:30am-6pm, Sa 8:30am-5pm, Su 9am-5pm.
AUGUSTINERKELLER
GERMAN $$
Arnulfstr. 52
089 59 43 93
www.augustinerkeller.de
This restaurant’s authentic Bavarian dishes will surely not disappoint. Since Augustiner was first concocted in 1824, it has been widely viewed as the most prized of Bavarian brews, and this beer garden is among the best in town. Sit beneath the century-old chestnut trees and wait for the traditional bell-ringing ritual, which happens whenever a new wooden barrel is tapped. The beer garden is divided into two parts; the self-service counter is much cheaper and just as great for delicious food and beer.
S1, S2, S3, S4, S6, S7, or S8: Hackerbrucke. Turn right onto Arnulfstr. Maß €7.80. Beer garden is cash only. Beer garden open daily 11:30am-midnight. Restaurant open daily 10am-1am.
Thalkirchen
ALTER WIRT
GERMAN $$
Fraunbergstr. 8
089 74 21 99 77
Thalkirchen isn’t really a culinary destination, but if you’re in the area, Alter Wirt is your best bet. This dimly lit restaurant consistently prepares great Bavarian fare as well as cheap burgers and quesadillas. Large portions make this a local favorite—even the “small” meals are filling enough for an entire dinner, while the delicious potato wedges with sour cream are about the cheapest hot meal you’ll find in town. If you want a break from Bavarian food, we recommend the burger and fries. The family-friendly beer garden is a great place to go on a sunny day.
U3: Thalkirchen, then head down Fraunbergstr. Schnitzel Tu; for €5.10, get an enormous plate of schnitzel with fries and a drink. Entrees €6-13. Maß €5.60 Open daily 9am-midnight. Kitchen closes at 11pm.
NIGHTLIFE
City Center
HOFBRÄUHAUS
BEER HALL
Platzl 9
089 29 01 36 100
www.hofbraeuhaus.de
We could easily list this place under Sights—no trip to Munich is complete without a visit to its most famous beer hall. This is “das original” Hofbräuhaus beer hall that gave rise to dozens more around the world. Figures like Lenin, Hitler, and Mozart are mere footnotes in the long history of the place, which was royalty-only until King Ludwig I opened it to the public in 1828. Beer here comes in liters (€7.30); if you ask for anything less, they’ll chortle and probably bring you a Maß anyway. By the end of the night you’ll either be singing at the top of your lungs or singing a different tune at the famous vomitorium.
S1, S2, S3, S4, S5, S6, S7, S8, U3, or U6: Marienpl. Take a left before the Altes Rathaus onto Burgstr. Then walk past the Alter Hof courtyard and take a right onto Pfisterstr. Arrive early to guarantee a spot, especially for large groups. Entrees €9.50-17. Open daily 10am-11:30pm. Shows at 7pm.
CAFE AM HOCHHAUS
BAR
Blumenstr. 29
089 290 13 60
www.cafeamhochhaus.de
This tiny one-room bar proves that it’s not size that matters—it’s how you use it. The bottle-shaped disco ball and shiny bull skull are almost normal compared to the weird wallpaper that covers almost the entire area and depicts people swimming in what could be a reflecting pool of a palace. The nightly DJs spin anything but the mainstream and thus attract an assorted clientele that may include well-known German soccer players or models.
U1, U2, U3, or U6: Sendlinger Tor. With the brick arches of Sendlinger Tor behind you, walk toward the tram stop and turn left onto Sonnenstr. Follow as it becomes Blumenstr. and curves multiple times before you reach the cafe on the right. Gay T-Dance on Su. Shot €6.50-7.50. Cocktails €8. Open M-Th 8pm-2am, F-Sa 8pm-late, Su 8pm-2am. The party usually gets started around 11pm.
University Area
ALTER SIMPL
BAR
Türkenstr. 57
089 272 30 83
www.eggerlokale.de
The gothic letters, wooden tables, hundreds of old posters, liters of beer, and great Bavarian food make Alter Simpl a genuinely awesome place to have a traditional meal or a beer at any time of the day. However, Alter Simpl stands out from its simpler cousins in a number of ways. Founded in 1903, the bar takes its name from an old satirical magazine called “Simplicissimus,” with the magazine’s iconic logo of a dog breaking the chains of censorship reworked into a dog breaking open a champagne bottle. There’s even a statue of this red dog inside the establishment. Although the bar was once a second home to Munich’s artists and intellectuals, it is now a lively hangout packed with students and a young crowd.
U3 or U6: Universität. Turn right onto Schellingstr. and then right onto Türkenstr. Beer €3.80. Snacks and entrees €5.60-15. Cash only. Open M-Th 11am-3am, F-Sa 11am-4am, Su 11am-3am. Kitchen open M-Th 11am-2am, F-Sa 11am-3am, Su 11am-2am.
SCHELLING SALON
BAR
Schellingstr. 54
089 272 07 88
www.schelling-salon.de
The clanking of beer glasses won’t be the only collision you hear in Schelling Salon: the bar is filled out with red and green pool tables. This Munich institution once welcomed the likes of Lenin, Rilke, Brecht, and Hitler (legend has it that Hitler was banned from the restaurant due to unpaid bills), but nowadays, any tourist or local can enjoy the surprisingly cheap beer and big plates of Bavarian food among the old newspaper articles, photos, and posters. Unless you’re the type of guy or gal who frequents establishments with pool tables, we recommend you check out this bar, as it will definitely be something you haven’t seen before. Don’t miss the giant chess board on the ceiling!
U3 or U6: Universität, then head away from the Siegestor and take a right onto Schellingstr. Beer 0.5L €2.90. Breakfast €3.20-5.40. Entrees €5-11.50. Pool €4.50 per hr. before 5pm, €9 per hr. after. Cash only. Open Oct-Jul M 10am-1am, Th-Su 10am-1am.
Au-Haidhausen
MUFFATWERK
CONCERT VENUE
Zellstr. 4
089 45 87 50 10
www.muffatwerk.de
This converted power plant hosts all kinds of concerts, from hip hop to jazz, and has hosted such names as Santana and Smashing Pumpkins. On Fridays and Saturdays, crowds storm the massive performance hall to hear live DJs. The attached beer garden, bar, and cafe all provide a more relaxed venue during the afternoon or evening. On your way here, check out the beach with a view of the dam.
Tram 18: Deutsches Museum. Cross the bridge and turn left (follow the signs). Cover F-S €7-12. Concerts €15-35. Cash only. Shows generally start 8:30-9:30pm; the hall opens 1hr. earlier. Check website for events. Beer garden open M-F 5pm-midnight, Sa 2pm-midnight, Su noon-midnight.
KULTFABRIK AND OPTIMOLWERKE
CLUB
Friedenstr. 10
089 450 69 20
www.optimolwerke.de
Kultfabrik and Optimolwerke are amusement parks, except these ones will take you on a different kind of wild ride (one that may result in a technicolor yawn). The two establishments, or rather collections of establishments, lie in adjacent lots, each containing enormous assortments of smaller bars and clubs. Hours, covers, and themes vary among the individual venues, which range from the fun-in-the-sun Bamboo Beach (Kultfabrik), complete with imported sand, to the darker Drei Turme (Optimolwerke), with its castle-like interior. Also within Kultfabrik is Kalinka, where you can fill up on vodka and party against a giant, seven-foot bust of Lenin. Kultfabrik prints a monthly magazine with the club schedules.
S1, S2, S3, S4, S5, S6, S7, or S8: Ostbahnhof. Walk through the underground tunnels past all the tracks to the back of the station and follow the crowds. On F, a single cover of €5 gets you inside many of Kultfabrik’s clubs. Covers vary; generally around €5. Cash only. Hours vary, but most parties start 10-11pm; check schedule online.
Neuhausen
BACKSTAGE
BAR, CLUB
Wilhelm-Hale-Str. 38
089 126 61 00
www.backstage.eu
Backstage may be a converted gas station, but the abundance of trees and plants (lit up with vibrating green lights) makes this venue totally awesome, without the touch of scary-abandoned-factory feeling. The complex features live music from the indie underground scene. The local crowd varies depending on the act, but during the summer, you can always expect a crowded Biergarten with one of the best beer deals in town (Maß €4.80) and cheap shots (Th-Sa €1). The entire area includes three performance venues and multiple outdoor seating areas.
Trams 16, 17: Steubenpl. Walk south on Wilhelm-Hale-Str. and take the 3rd left, before the bridge. Follow the road as it curves until you reach Backstage. Freakout Party on Sa. Check the website for more events. Concert €15-30. Sa cover €7.50; includes 2 drinks. Shots €2.50. Summer beer garden open M-Th 5pm-1am, F-Sa 5pm-5am, Su 5pm-1am.
LÖWENBRÄUKELLER
BEER HALL
Nymphenburgerstr. 2
089 54 72 66 90
www.loewenbraeukeller.com
Marienplatz has Hofbräuhaus, Neuhausen has Löwenbräukeller, and we don’t want to hear complaining about how similar beer gardens and halls can get. That’s part of the magic. After all, you go for the beer, the company, and the waitresses in the Bavarian dresses. This beer garden may look like the other famous ones, but the entrance of Löwenbräukeller is easily identifiable thanks to its green tower and the characteristic Löwenbräu lion on the terrace.
U1: Stiglmaierpl. English menu available. Maß €8.40. Entrees €5-14. Open daily 10am-midnight. Kitchen closes 11pm.
ESSENTIALS
Practicalities
• TOURIST OFFICES: English-speaking staff books rooms for free with a 10% deposit. München Ticket, a booking agency for concerts, theater, and other events, has locations at each tourist office. (Bahnhofspl. 2 089 23 39 65 00 www.muenchen.de Outside the train station. Map €0.40. Open M-Sa 9am-8pm, Su 10am-6pm.) 2nd location. (Marienpl. 2 089 23 39 65 00 www.muenchen.de Inside Neues Rathaus. Open M-F 10am-7pm, Sa 10am-5pm, Su 10am-2pm.)
• CURRENCY EXCHANGE: ReiseBank has decent rates, and Western Union will cash traveler’s checks at a 1.5% commission. (Hauptbahnhof 089 55 10 80www.reisebank.de Open daily 7am-10pm.)
• LUGGAGE STORAGE: Lockers are in the main hall of the Hauptbahnhof. (089 13 08 50 36 Max. 3 days €5 per day. Open M-F 7am-8pm, Sa-Su 8am-6pm.)
• GLBT RESOURCES: Bavarian queer publications include Leo, Blu (www.blu-magazin.de), and Rosa Muenchen (www.rosamuenchen.de). Gay & Lesbian Information Line. (Men 089 260 30 56; women 089 725 42 72 Open F 6-10pm.) LeTra is a resource for lesbians. (Angertorstr. 3 089 725 42 72 www.letra.de Hotline M 2:30-5pm, Tu 10:30am-1pm, W 2:30-5pm.) Schwules Kommunikations und Kulturzentrum has resources, counselors, a small cafe, and a library for gay men. (Müllerstr. 43 089 260 30 56 www.subonline.org Open M-Th 7-11pm, F 7pm-midnight, Sa 8pm-1am, Su 7-11pm.)
• WOMEN’S RESOURCES: Kofra offers job advice, books, and magazines and has a small cafe. (Baaderstr. 30 089 201 04 50 www.kofra.de Open M-Th 4-10pm, F 2-6pm.) Frauentreffpunkt Neuperlach offers services for women, including an international coffee house and English conversation nights. (Oskar-Maria-Graf-Ring 20 089 670 64 63 www.frauentreffpunkt-neuperlach.de Open Tu 11am-noon, Th 11am-noon, and by appointment).
• INTERNET: San Francisco Coffee Company has locations throughout the city. (Tal 15 www.sfcc.de Free Wi-Fi with any purchase. Open M-F 7:30am-9pm, Sa 8am-10pm, Su 9am- 8pm.) Coffee Fellows Cafe has an internet cafe and printers on the 2nd floor. (Schuetzenstr. 14 Wi-Fi or computer us €1.50 per 30min.; €2.50 per hr. Free Wi-Fi 1hr. with any €5 purchase. Open M-F 7am-11:30pm, Sa-Su 8am-11:30pm).
• POST OFFICE: Hauptbahnhof Post Office. (Bahnhofpl. 1; www.deutschepost.de The yellow building opposite the train station. Open M-F 8am-8pm, Sa 9am-4pm.)
• POSTAL CODES: Munich postal codes begin with 80 or 81. The Hauptbahnhof postal code is 80335.
Emergency
• EMERGENCY NUMBERS: 112. Police: 110. Ambulance: 089 19 222.
• CRISIS LINES: Frauennotruf Muenchen operates a rape crisis hotline. (Saarstr. 5 089 76 37 37 www.frauennotrufmuenchen.de Available M-F 10am-midnight, Sa-Su 6pm-midnight.) Munich AIDS Help. (089 54 33 30.)
• PHARMACIES: (Bahnhofpl. 2 089 59 98 90 40 www.hauptbahnhofapo.de Exit the train station and take a right. Open M-F 7am-8pm, Sa 8am-8pm.)
• HOSPITALS/MEDICAL SERVICES: Klinikum Schwabing (Kölner Pl. 1 089 30 680 www.klinikum-muenchen.de) and Red Cross Hospital Neuhausen (Nymphenburgerstr. 163 089 12 78 97 90 www.swmbrk.de) both provide 24hr. emergency medical services.
Getting There
By Plane
Munich’s international airport, Flughafen München (Nordalee 25 089 975 00 www.munich-airport.de) is a 45min. train ride from the city center. Take S1 or S8 to Flughafen. (€9.80 on a Streifenkarte. Every 10-20min. 4am-1:30am). A cab ride to the airport from the city center cost €60.
By Train
Munich’s central train station, München Hauptbahnhof (Hauptbahnhof 1 089 130 81 05 55 www.hauptbahnhof-muenchen.de S1, S2, S3, S4, S6, S7, S8, U1, U2, U4, or U5: Hauptbahnhof), has arrivals and departures to a host of European cities. Connected cities include Berlin (€120 6hr., 2 per hr.); Dresden (€100 6hr., 2 per hr.); Frankfurt (€91 3hr., 2 per hr.); Hamburg (€129 6hr., every hr.); Köln (€129 5hr., 2 per hr.); Amsterdam, NHE (€150 6hr., every 2hr.); Paris, FRA (€150 6hr., every 2hr.); Prague, CZR (€60 6hr., 2 per day.); Zurich, CHE. (€70 4hr., 3 per day.) These prices are the official ones if you purchase the day of departure; you can often get heavy discounts (30-40%) by buying a ticket between three months and three days in advance.
Getting Around
By Deutsche Bahn
The S-Bahn is under the operation of the Deutsche Bahn (DB) network, which means that Eurail, InterRail, and German rail passes are all valid. Before beginning your journey, validate your ticket by getting it stamped in the blue boxes. DB officers often check for validation, and those without properly validated tickets are charged a heft €40 fine. The S-Bahn generally runs between 3:30am and 1:30am.
By Public Transportation
The U-Bahn, trams, and buses are all part of the city’s MVV network (089 41 42 43 44 www.mvvv-muenchen.de) and require separate ticket purchases. Pick up maps at the tourist office or at the MVV Infopoint office in the Hauptbahnhof. Transportation schedules vary, but the U-Bahn opens around 4:30am and closes around 1am during the week (2am on weekends). Nachtlinien (night trams) run every 30min. and cover most of the city. Tickets come in multiple forms based on how far you’re traveling and how long the pass is valid. The simplest form is the single Einzelfahrkarte (€2.50), which is good for 2hr. for a trip in one direction. All other trips depend on the distance, for which the Munich area is split into 16 different zones of concentric circles around the city center. For short trips (within the same zone), get a Kurzstrecke (€1.20). For multiple rides, buy a Streifenkarte (stripe ticket; €12), which usually comes with 10 stripes. The zones are further grouped into four different colors (white, yellow, green, and red), for which you can get one-day or three-day passes. For the most part, tourists will stay within the white zone, for which a one-day pass costs €5.40 and a three-day €13.30. Partner tickets can save you money if you’re traveling in a group. There are several cards available:
• ISARCARDS: An IsarCard is a week- or month-long pass that can be even cheaper than the three-day pass. One-week passes cost €12.30-17.60, depending on whether you pick two, three, or four zones. IsarCards, however, are only valid during the week or the month proper (e.g., a weekly pass will only work from Su to Su, and 1-month passes work for specific months), so plan accordingly.
• CITY TOUR CARDS: This card gets you transportation, along with some tiny discounts to attractions in Munich. That said, these attractions are not always the most popular ones in town. The City Tour card probably isn’t worth it if you’re not getting the partner ticket.
• BAYERN TICKET: The Bayern Ticket gets you access to any public transportation within Bavaria for an entire day. (€21. Valid M-F 9am-3am, Sa-Su midnight-3am.) The ticket also covers neighboring cities, including Ulm and Salzburg, making it perfect for day trips. The greatest savings can be achieved by getting a group Bayern Ticket, which covers up to five people for just €29.
By Taxi
Taxi-München-Zentrale (089 216 10 or 089 19 410 www.taxizentrale-muenchen.de) is a large taxi stand just outside the Hauptbahnhof. Taxi stands are located all around the city. The pricing algorithm is complicated, but there is a flat fee of €3.30, and shorter distances generally cost €1.70 per km.
By Bike
Munich is extremely bike-friendly. There are paths on nearly every street, and many locals use bikes as their primary mode of transportation. Renting a bike can be a great way to see a lot of the city in just a few days. Remember to stay within the bike lanes and that many lanes are one-way.
germany essentials
MONEY
Tipping
Service staff are paid by the hour, and a service charge is included in an item’s unit price. Cheap customers typically just round up to the nearest whole euro, but it’s customary and polite to tip 5-10% if you are satisfied with the service. If the service was poor, you don’t have to tip at all. To tip, mention the total to your waiter while paying. If he states that the bill is €20, respond “€22,” and he will include the tip. Do not leave the tip on the table; hand it directly to the server. It is standard to tip a taxi driver at least €1, housekeepers €1-2 a day, bellhops €1 per piece of luggage, and public toilet attendants around €0.50.
Taxes
Most goods in Germany are subject to a value added tax—or mehrwertsteuer (MwSt)—of 19%, which is included in the purchase price of goods (a reduced tax of 7% is applied to books and magazines, food, and agricultural products). Non-EU visitors who are taking these goods home unused may be refunded this tax for purchases totaling over €25 per store. When making purchases, request a MwSt form and present it at a Tax Free Shopping Office, found at most airports, road borders, and ferry stations, or by mail. Refunds must be claimed within six months. For more information, contact the German VAT refund hotline (0228 406 2880 www.bzst.de).
SAFETY AND HEALTH
Local Laws and Police
Certain regulations might seem harsh and unusual (practice some self-control city-slickers, jaywalking is €5 fine), but abide by all local laws while in Germany; your embassy will not necessarily get you off the hook.
Drugs and Alcohol
The drinking age in Germany is 16 for beer and wine and 18 for spirits. The maximum blood alcohol content level for drivers is 0.05%. Avoid public drunkenness; it can jeopardize your safety and earn the disdain of locals.
Sometimes, a week of vacation isn’t enough to get all you want out of Germany. Take a few months to study, work, or volunteer in the land of Goethe, and you will find out that not everyone wears Lederhosen (but that the pretzels are delicious everywhere). Germany’s public education system has long attracted foreigners, and veryhigh quality education can be had here for a steal. If you intend to make a fortune becoming the next Michael Otto, however, be warned: Germany’s job market is highly competitive, and opportunities are hard to come by for non-native speakers. But this shouldn’t deter you from spending a few months in the country that gave the world Copernicus, Hegel, and Heidi Klum. Adopt the German work ethic, savor sauerkraut, and save up your money before blowing it all on your first Oktoberfest.
STUDY
Germany is one of the world’s most popular study abroad destinations, and not just because of the blonde milkmaids. Most universities are public and considerably cheaper than their US counterparts. As the motor of the European Union, Germany also has extensive experience receiving international students. Its schools also offer a vast array of English courses. If the role of eternal tourist appeals to you, you can get an entire degree without stepping foot inside a German class!
• INSTITUTE OF EUROPEAN STUDIES (IES): If you have yet to master your German tenses, IES provides you with the opportunity to take part in an intensive German courses, in addition to an internship and a German-taught course at a partner university. Your host family will be delighted to feed you some kartoffel and correct your pesky grammar mistakes.
• GERMAN ACADEMIC EXCHANGE SERVICE (DAAD): Feeling like you won’t be able to afford any German beer after seeing that study abroad bill? Think again. The German Academic Exchange Service can pay for your entire master’s if you recently graduated from a US or Canadian university. You don’t even have to speak German! (www.daad.org)
• CULTURAL EXPERIENCES ABROAD (CEA): If a whole semester of German seems a little too ambitious, start small with a summer school program in Berlin. The Cultural Experiences Abroad staff will serve as your German mom by organizing airport pickups, gourmet tours of Berlin and Eurotrips to provide decoration for your Facebook wall. (www.gowithcea.com)
• ACADEMIC PROGRAMS INTERNATIONAL (API): More interested in winter sauerkraut than summer landscapes? Every January, Academic Programs International offers an intensive language course in Berlin to fill up that awkward hole in your winter vacation (www.apistudyabroad.com)
• EDUCATION FIRST (EF): Education First accommodates both the lazy and the hardworking. Select either the intensive, general, or “interested” track to strike a balance between work and study as you enjoy the beautiful city of Munich. (www.ef.com)
• FREIE UNIVERSITÄT: Go big or go home. Besides having a stereotypical German name to impress your friends back home, this renowned university has one of the largest international student bodies in the world. Earn your entire bachelor’s or master’s in Germany, gradually easing into the German language thanks to the university’s vast English offerings. (www.fu-berlin.de)
• HEIDELBERG UNIVERSITY: True German connoisseurs know there is more to Germany than Berlin and Munich. If you already have a strong background in German, head to the world-famous Heidelberg University for bucolic views of the German countryside. (www.uni-heidelberg.de)
• UNIVERSITY OF BÖNN: The University of Bönn knows how important you like to feel. Their international degree programs are specifically tailored to foreign students and offer a mix of English and German courses, as well as specialized international counseling. (www.uni-bonn.de)
• GERMANY INTERNSHIP PROGRAM: Pad your resume German-style and learn all about Germany’s unique work culture with an internship placement. Fields of internships in Cologne cover everything from agriculture to fashion design. (www.international-internships.com)
• FRENCH GERMAN ALLIANCE: Apprenticeships have been a praised aspect of German education for decades, providing an opportunity for students to gain hands-on experience in fields such as cooking or artisanal work. The French-German alliance allows you to kill two European languages with one stone by completing an apprenticeship in both countries. (www.afasp.net)
VOLUNTEER
Why volunteer in Germany, you ask? Between its pristine recycling systems, its stellar international test scores, and its filling cuisine, this country seems to have itself together. But just to add to the orderliness, the volunteering ethic is deeply embedded in German culture. Volunteer programs often offer opportunities to travel and learn German for free in a vast number of service areas.
• VOLUNTEER ECOLOGICAL YEAR: Come learn about environmental protection from the pros of recycling. This volunteer program will have you work on a hands-on project to protect the environment, providing you with pocket money, board, and lodging in exchange for your hard work. No German necessary. (www.foej.de)
• FRIENDS OF WALDORF: This German institute runs an Incoming Program, which offers foreigners the opportunity to spend 12 months in Germany working on various community service projects. Participants get to choose from areas of service as well-defined as homes for the elderly to ones as obscure as curative education. Conversational German necessary.
• INTERNATIONAL YOUTH AND CULTURE CENTRE: Even though Germany might not be the first place you associate with free-spirited artists, the land of efficiency and order has something for the creative mind. Help organize cultural events and run workshops with children for anywhere from six months to a year. (www.kiebitz.net)
• SONNTAGS CLUB: Volunteer for a year at the headquarters of the German LGBT association to work toward ending homophobia in Germany. The year-long volunteer programs include various trips across Europe as well as German language lessons for non-native speakers. (www.sonntags-club.de)
• YOUTH HIKING IN SAXONY-ANHALT: If you’re always pushing your friends to go to the gym, well, now you can do it in Germany. Help the Germany Youth Hostel Association trick European youth into hiking by developing new trails and designing promotional material. Basic German required.
• KANDERN RESIDENTIAL HOME: Deep into the Black Forest, practice your German and help with geriatric care. Prepare snacks, clean rooms, and listen to the World War II stories of the residents over some well-deserved pretzels. Basic German required. (www.t-online.de)
• FRAUENBERG KINDERGARTEN: If you’ve always had a soft spot for toddlers, expose yourself to the German educational methods in the rural village of Frauenberg. As you change the diaper of one of your screaming students, remember: your job also includes free train tickets across Germany and professional language training. (www.jugendsozialwerk.de)
• EUROPEAN COMMISSION YOUTH: The European Commission coordinates a number of volunteer opportunities throughout Europe. If you feel like your burgeoning sense of European solidarity needs some tending, spend anywhere from a month to a year creating presentations about Europe and organizing trips for European youth. (http://ec.europa.eu/youth)
• WORKAWAY: This global website connecting volunteers to volunteer opportunities has been particularly successful in Germany. Work a few hours a day in an art research institute, on a German farm, or on a horse ranch in exchange for a bed for the night. Most hosts have at least an elementary command of English, but German requirements vary. (www.workaway.info)
WORK
Due to the high levels of education across Germany, securing a high-paying job without fluent spoken German will not be an easy task. Fear not, however: even if all you have to offer is your English tongue, there are plenty of opportunities to earn a few euro.
• CERTIFICATE IN ENGLISH LANGUAGE TEACHING TO ADULTS (CELTA): While you do not need a diploma to tutor English at a person’s home, a English Language Teaching Certificate is necessary to hold a more formal position. This 4-week long course provides you with a certificate and a counseling network to secure a permanent teaching position. (www.suarez.de)
• AU PAIR CARE: Being an au pair is serious business in Germany. After finding a position through an accredited agency, you will be able to share bratwurst with your new family alongside your typical home dishes for a period of six to 12 months. (www.aupaircare.com)
• AYUSA ENGLISH TUTORING PROGRAM: If six months is a lot to commit, Au Pair Care offers you a compromise between work and fun as a home-stay tutor in a German family for one to three months. (www.aupaircare-germany.de)
• LEO LINGO: If you enjoy wielding complete authority over defenseless German children, being a camp counselor may just be the job for you. Leo Lingo organizes seven-week-long language sports camps in various places in Germany; counselors get room and board, as well as a modest salary. (www.leo-lingo.de)
• YOYO CAMPS: YoYo Camps are week-long summer day camps to teach English to German children in a cheery, Boy Scout atmosphere. Camp counselors get a lot of flexibility when designing their programs and are encouraged to let their creative juices flow. (www.yoyocamps.de)
• BUNDESTAG INTERNSHIP: This program of the German Academic Exchange Service offers you the opportunity to spend two months interning in the German Parliament. Learn about German politics and maybe even rub shoulders with Angela Merkel, all while getting paid by the German state. Excellent spoken German required.
Needless to say, illegal drugs are best avoided. While possession of marijuana or hashish is illegal, possession of small quantities for personal consumption is decriminalized in Germany. Each region has interpreted “small quantities” differently (anywhere from 5 to 30 grams). Carrying drugs across an international border—drug trafficking—is a serious offense that could land you in prison.
Prescription Drugs
Common drugs such as aspirin (Kopfschmerztablette or Aspirin), acetaminophen or Tylenol (Paracetamol), ibuprofen or Advil, antihistamines (Antihistaminika), and penicillin (Penizillin) are available at German pharmacies. Some drugs—like pseudoephedrine (Sudafed) and diphenhydramine (Benadryl)—are not available in Germany, or are only available with a prescription, so plan accordingly.