MUSTAFA’S MUSTAFA’S
MIDDLE EASTERN $
Mehringdamm 32
Kreuzberg has dozens of street food vendors, but one in particular stands out as (slightly) better than all the rest: Mustafa’s. Even on hot, summery days, the queue outside Mustafa’s lines the street, with everyone dancing to some thumpin’ Bollywood tunes. Despite its popularity, Mustafa’s is still priced for the street, and it’s open daily 24hr., too. Chicken döner (€2.90) seems to be the local omnivore’s favorite, while vegetarians can opt for the vegetable kebabs (€2.50).
U6 or U7: Mehringdamm. From the metro, cross to the west side of Mehringdamm, then walk south past the big building that looks like a cartoon medieval castle. Mustafa’s is in the little stand on the sidewalk, immediately past the castle. Entrees €2.50-5. Cash only. 
Open 24hr.
SANTA MARIA MEXICAN DINER
MEXICAN $$
Oranienstr. 170
030 922 10 027
We hear a lot of young American folks complaining about the lack of “real” Mexican food in Berlin. Though the owner is Australian, not Mexican, this complaint doesn’t exist at Santa Maria. The food is served in huge portions, and we’re especially fond of the chorizo quesadilla (€7.70). Easily the cla$$iest place to get drunk before the clubs in the area open, Santa Maria serves up happy hour margaritas (€4) and tequila shots (€1) from 8-10pm. The choriqueso (€6.50) is a pot of melted cheese and sausage—just think about that for a second.
U8: Moritzpl. From the metro, head southeast on Oranienstr. The restaurant is on the left after Oranienpl. Entrees €5-8. Cash only. Open daily noon-late. Happy hour daily 8-10pm.
CAFÉ MORGENLAND
CAFE $$
Skalitzer Str. 35
030 611 32 91
Morgenland’s cult-like local following adores the cafe’s breakfasts. Order by country: Englisches (€7.50) for the bland, Italienisches (€7) for the meaty, Spanisches (€8.20) for the feast. The menu is wildly extensive, so if none of those options catch your fancy, you’re sure to find something suited to please. A baguette? A salad? An omelette? Something with rice? A decadent dessert? Tables are prized at this vibrant cafe, so unless you want to risk a long wait or an empty stomach, call ahead to make a reservation.
U1: Görlitzer Bahnhof. From the metro, walk west on Skalitzer Str. The cafe is in the little square next to the intersection between Skalizter Str. and Manteufel Str. Entrees €5-15. All-you-can-eat weekend brunch €9.50. Cash only. Open M-F 9am-1am, Sa-Su 10am-1am. Business lunch M-F noon-4pm. Brunch Sa-Su 10am-4pm.
RISSANI
MIDDLE EASTERN $
Spreewaldpl. 4
030 616 29 433
Döner isn’t hard to find in Kreuzberg. But a Middle Eastern restaurant that doesn’t even serve döner? Now that’s something! Rissani serves some of the cheapest sandwiches in Berlin. Order the falafel sandwich or the chicken shawarma sandwich (€2) and prepare to cover your face in yogurt and crumbs.
U1: Görlitzer Bahnhof. From the station, head east down Skalitzer Str. and take a right onto Spreewaldpl. Entrees €2-5. Cash only. Open M-Th 11am-3am, F-Sa 11am-5am, Su 11am-3am.
HENNE ALT-BERLINER WIRTSHAUS GASTSTÄTTEN
GERMAN $$
Leuschnerdamm 25
030 614 77 30
Henne thinks that if you get to make decisions, you’re going to make bad ones. So you don’t really have much of a choice: you’re going to order the one entree they serve. It’s chicken. Not just any chicken—this is a perfectly fried half-chicken and a piece of bread (€7.90). While you wait, Henne brings you a bowl of Southern-style, mayo-heavy potato salad for you to devour. Complete with antler decorations and its very own beer garden, Henne provides the quintessential German experience. Even JFK thought so.
U1 or U8: Kottbusser Tor. From the station, head northwest on Oranienstr. Take a right onto Oranienpl. and follow the park about halfway to St. Michael’s Church. The restaurant is at the corner of Leuschnerdamm and Waldemarstr. Reservations required for outdoor seating; they’re a good idea for indoor seating as well. Sausage €2.40-3.50. Beer €2.60-3.80. Wine €4. Cash only. Open Tu-Sa 6pm-late, Su 5pm-late. Kitchen closes Tu-Sa 11pm, Su 10pm.
CURRY 36
CURRYWURST $
Mehringdamm 36
030 251 73 68
We postulate that currywurst stands were so plentiful and so hard to name that they gave up and just decided to refer to them by number. Somehow, 36 stands above the rest. With its super-crispy chippies (red and white €1.60) and its curry-powder-ketchup-sausage mess (€1.50), Curry 36 is the best of the ’wurst.
U6 or U7: Mehringdamm. From the metro, head south on Mehringdamm. The fast-food stand is on the right just before Yorck/Gneisenaustr. Currywurst €1.50, organic costs an extra €0.30. French fries €1.40. Cash only. Open daily 9am-5am.
NIGHTLIFE
If you’re reading this section and thinking, “I’m not sure I want to go clubbing in Berlin,” then stop it. Stop it right now. Take a hint from Lady Gaga, patron saint of Berlin, and just dance... you won’t regret it. The true Diskotheken await in the barren cityscape of Friedrichshain and the notoriously nocturnal Kreuzberg. Mitte does not disappoint, either—its tremendous multi-room clubs filled with exquisitely dressed 20-somethings are generally worth their hefty covers. The major parties in Schöneberg are at the GLBT clubs in the northern part of the neighborhood. For tamer nightlife, try the jazz clubs in Charlottenburg or the bar scene in Prenzlauer Berg.
Charlottenburg
Don’t go to Charlottenburg expecting a wild time. We’re pretty sure you won’t be able to get that crazy here, since Charlottenburg is known for its residential feel, quiet cafes, and the 30-somethings who are busier starting families than throwing crazy ragers. The neighborhood is great for a mellow evening or some live jazz, but the real parties are eastward. The Ku’damm is best avoided after sunset, unless you enjoy chatting up drunk businessmen.
A-TRANE
BAR, CLUB
Pestalozzistr. 105
030 313 25 50
If you don’t like jazz, A-Trane is too expensive for you to stop by. But if you do like jazz, boy, this place is glorious. The patrons are older (the kind of people who’ve probably gone to this club once a month for the past 35 years), but that’s the jazz crowd for you. Every once in a while, this place will attempt to cater to the young kids, pursuing popularity over prowess by offering up a disappointing and terrible Red Hot Chili Peppers jazz cover. Skip these fads and either sit in on a Saturday night jam session (anticipate sticking around until sometime on Sunday morning) or check their website for shows, most of which will not disappoint.
S3, S5, S7, S9, or S75: Savignypl. Cover €10-25, students €8-13. No cover Saturday after 12:30am. Cash only. Open M-Th 9pm-1am, F-Sa 9pm-late, Su 9pm-1am.
QUASIMODO
CLUB
Kantstr. 12A
030 312 80 86
By day, Quasimodo serves up Kaffee, and by night, the club showcases live music in an eclectic variety of genres—including funk, soul, disco, folk, and jazz—nearly every night of the week. What sucks is that the crowd here tends to be on the older side, and sometimes they can give this club an office-party kind of feel (remember: you’re still in Charlottenburg). A spacious basement room with a large bar and stage lets all those awkward coworkers dance right up close to the performers.
U2, S5, S7, S9, or S75: Zoologischer Garten. On the corner of Fasanenstr. and Kantstr. Check the website for music schedule. Cover for concert €8-30, cheaper if reserved in advance. Free entry every Tu. Drinks €2.50-4.50. Cash only. Open daily 10pm-late.
ANDA LUCIA
BAR, RESTAURANT
Savignypl. 2
030 547 102 71
Perhaps you’re looking for a mild introduction to Berlin’s crazy nightlife. Anda Lucia is exactly that: a tame bar experience where you pay a good amount of money for some good, gentle fun. If you arrive after 11pm, everyone around you should be drunk enough to show off their salsa moves despite Anda Lucia’s lack of a dance floor. This place mostly functions as a warm Latin bar, with a cocktail list about a mile long. We love the pricey mojitos (€8.20, ouch...), but we’ve heard travelers complain that this place includes a €2 up-charge or tip on every bill, so keep that in mind while your tab is adding up.
S5, S7, or S75: Savignypl. Wine from €4 a glass. Tequila €3. Tapas €3.70-5. Kitchen open daily noon-2am.
Schöneberg and Wilmersdorf
Schöneberg is Berlin’s unofficial gay district, so most of the nightlife here caters to the GLBT community. A couple of distinctive cocktail bars may be worth visiting in the interest of broadening your buzz, but the neighborhood’s real parties happen at the GLBT clubs and bars in northern Schöneberg.
HAFEN
BAR, GLBT
Motzstr. 19
030 211 41 18
Hafen is easily one of the friendliest (and best!) bars in Schöneberg. It’s a wonderful little place, ideal for the start of a night on the town. Inside, you’ll find plenty of locals all along the spectrums of age and attractiveness. Everything about Hafen is inviting, from the dancing neon lights to the expansive bar. With a large supply of tables and a consistently high level of volume and energy pulsing from its clean, drum-machine-heavy tunage, Hafen is a great place to go with friends. The weekly pub quiz (M at 8pm; conducted in English the first M of every month) is wildly popular, and every Wednesday night features a new DJ. On April 30, Hafenhosts its largest party of the year in honor of the Queen of the Netherlands. Hafen can be frenetic and totally crazy with a hoppin’ party, or it can be more mellow depending on the particular night.
U1, U3, U4, or U9: Nollendorfpl. Cash only. Open daily 8pm-4am (or later).
SLUMBERLAND
BAR
Goltstr. 24
030 216 53 49
While pretending Berlin is located in the Caribbean generally makes us frown, Slumberland manages to pull it off. With its sand-covered floor and posters of old Spanish films, this bar allows patrons to “get away” in this island escape in the middle of land-locked Berlin. Try an obligatory beach favorite, like a piña colada or a Sex on the Beach (both €6.50), or go tropical with a fruit-flavored African beer (DjuDju, €3.90). The Fußball table is an awesome addition, but consider yourself warned: the beach may be relaxing, but things here get competitive.
U1, U3, U4, or U9: Nollendorfpl. Most drink €2-7. Open M-Th 5pm-2am, F 5pm-4am, Sa 11am-4pm, Su 5pm-2am.
PRINZKNECHT
BAR
Fuggerstr. 33
030 236 27 444
While most of the bars in the neighborhood don’t help you meet new people, Prinzknecht almost guarantees it. Take a smoke break out front and some friendly 20- or 30-somethings will strike up a conversation. Prinzknecht is an ecstatic, gay-friendly spot with a huge wooden bar and disco ball reflections striping the place. Loud beats and crowds fuel Prinzknecht’s insanely high energy levels. Even with levels upon levels of bar stools and couches extending far back into its purple and green, neon-lit interior, the bar fills up way past capacity on event nights, and people begin to resemble waves on the street. A mostly male clientele spread between 20-somethings and 50-year-olds nods to the almost oppressively loud beats inside, while some patrons cool off on the long benches that stretch across the pavement outside.
U1 or U2: Wittenbergpl. 2-for-1 drinks W 7-9pm. Cash only. Free Wi-Fi. Open M-Th 3pm-2am, F-Sa 3pm-3am, and Su 3pm-2am.
BEGINE
BAR
Potsdamer Str. 139
030 215 14 14
In a neighborhood dominated by male gay clubs, Begine is a welcome retreat for women. No, really: a sign outside says “Nur für Frauen” (literally, “only for women”), and they mean it. As Berlin’s biggest lesbian community center, Begine has a popular, low-key cafe and bar with comfortable sofas from which to enjoy readings and live music at night. Dim yellow lighting and an acre of empty floor space make for a quiet bar that offers a short and unremarkable list of beers, coffee, and cocktails. The bar is far removed from the nightlife center over by Nollendorfpl., but maybe that’s precisely the point. An older crowd proudly patronizes this respectable neighborhood rarity.
U2: Bülowstr. Open M-F 5pm-late, Sa 7pm-late, Su hours vary.
TRAIN
BAR
Corner of Potsdamer Str. and Langenscheidtstr.
030 017 734 441 23
Train is, quite literally, located inside an old, rusty locomotive wagon. It’s a total gimmick, and the bar has all of no class, but we love it anyway. It manages to pull off cheesy, with chandeliers and aluminum foil ceilings, while still attracting a rockin’ crowd of 20-somethings. Most of the cocktails here are locomotive-themed, like the fruity Train Fever (rum, lime juice, lemon juice, maracuja syrup, mango juice (€6). Chug-a-chug enough of ’em, and you might wake up the next morning feeling like you were run over by a caboose. Choo-choo!
U7: Kleistpark. Cocktail €6, €5 M-Tu and Su nights. Cash only. Open daily 6pm-late.
HEILE WELT
BAR, GLBT
Motzstr. 5
030 219 17 507
Even with the addition of two enormous, quiet sitting rooms, this bar still attracts enough 20-somethings to fill the place wall to wall (to the point that patrons begin to pool in the street outside). Heile Welt keeps its cool with a fur-covered wall, chandeliers, gold tassels, and a row of comfy armchairs. But without much of the glamour or volume of its competitors, this kitsch bar is better suited to conversation with friends and is less a place to meet new people. We’re not saying it’s impossible to meet guys in Heile Welt, but the environment is laid-back and more suited for a mellow evening.
U1, U3, U4, or U9: Nollendorfpl. Beer €2.50 per liter. Cash only. Open daily 6pm-4am, sometimes later.
Mitte
Mitte’s techno clubs often offer the height of Berlin’s dance scene. Nowhere else will you find clubs so well attended by exquisitely dressed locals in their early 20s, and, despite high covers, these tremendous multi-room clubs rarely disappoint. Most of these places are pretty close to Rosenthaler Platz, but some club is always just around the corner in Mitte. Don’t expect to get a full night’s sleep; the parties generally don’t heat up until 2am.
CLUB
Torstr. 58-60
030 280 46 495
So it’s a Wednesday night, and you’re buzzed from the hostel bar but can’t find anywhere to show off your moves: Kaffee Burger is the perfect place to stumble into. There’s a small but worthwhile dance floor packed by 20-year-olds in band T-shirts and scarves right next to 40- and 50-year-olds showing off how crazy they can still be. With a quieter, smokier “Burger Bar” next door, complete with plenty of cushy furniture to lounge on and a cocktail called the “Drunken Rihanna” (€7), Kaffee Burger will transform your week night from a bleak night into a freak night. Weekly programs include poetry readings, film screenings, and drunken sloppiness.
U6: Rosa-Luxemburg-Pl. From the metro, walk 1 block to the east on Torstr. Cover M-T €1, F-Sa €5, Su €1. Beer €2.50. Shots €3-4. Cocktails €6-7. Cash only. Open daily 9pm-late.
WEEK END
CLUB
Alexanderstr. 7
030 258 99 366
Don’t take the name too seriously. Week End is one of the coolest clubs in town any night of the week. There’s live music several nights a week. And if that’s not enough to draw you in, two words: rooftop bar. And not a second-story, lame-ass rooftop. Nope, this one is on the top of a mini-, East Berlin-esque skyscraper. Besides the rockin’ rooftop bar, this place has two whole floors of the skyscraper, both devoted to delicious cocktails, bright lighting, and crazy dancing. This awesome club does have one downside, which shouldn’t be unexpected: there’s hardly anyone here but tourists, and most of them don’t seem to know what techno even is. Unfortunately, with a sky-scraping cover and drink prices, you may not want to spend every weekend at Week End, but it’s worth at least a visit.
U6: Alexander Pl. From the metro, head northeast to the “Sharp” building. Cover €10-20. Coat check €1.20. Open Tu-Su midnight-late.
CLÄRCHENS BALLHAUS
CLUB
Auguststr. 24
030 282 92 95
By day, it’s a self-described gypsy cafe. But by night, it’s an ideal spot for anyone looking to try out those swing dancing skills. Clärchens aims to be kitschy and unique, and it totally accomplishes both. The dancing tends to get sloppier and sloppier as the night wears on and the BAC of its patrons climbs higher and higher. The ball house has a 1920s flair to it, exemplified by its weekly offerings of cha-cha, salsa, and swing dancing. Come early for a drink in the beautiful patio garden, or come late to watch the surprisingly talented steppers of all generations kick it old school in a tremendous hall surrounded by silver tassels.
U8: Oranienburger Str. From the metro, head north on Tucholsky Str. and turn right onto Auguststr.
M-Th programs €8, students €6, after midnight free; F-Sa €3; Su programs €8, students €6, after midnight free. Open daily 10am-late. Dance programs start sometime between 7 and 9pm, depending on the day of the week. Check the website for more details.
8MM BAR
BAR
Schönhauser Allee 177B
030 405 00 624
8mm is officially open “every day, kinda.” And that says a lot: crowd levels vary depending on the particular night, but when it’s bustling, it’s bustling. 8mm is both a dark, smoky bar and a live music venue. It’s also a great place to meet new people and to chat about how ironic you are. Art films are sometimes projected on the walls, and frequent guest performers and live DJs make this more than just a place to wear flannel and look disaffected, although there’s still plenty of that to go around.
U2: Senefelderpl. From the metro, head south on Schönhauser Allee. Beer €2.50-6. Mixed drinks €4-7. Cash only. Open M-F 8pm-late, Sa 9pm-late, Su 8pm-late.
CLUB
Ackerstr. 169
030 282 65 27
Schokoladen specializes in being loud and cheap. It’s a great, grungy, raucous, student-centric place to start your evening. Live music tends to make evenings here worthwhile, so be sure to wear those grungtastic fishnet stockings you bought at an outdoor market, come see some indie music, and let the evening take off from there. Unfortunately, Schokoladen does not appear to serve chocolate.
U8: Rosenthaler Pl. From the metro, walk west on Torstr. and turn right onto Ackenstr. Schokoladen is on the left. Cover up to €10. Beer sometimes as cheap as €1.50, but prices vary. Hours vary, but shows usually start around 8pm. Check the website for details.
NEUE ODESSA BAR
BAR
Torstr. 89
030 921 257 32
Enter because of the bright lights drawing you in and the black-and-white vintage parlor look (with cushy furniture), but stay for the whiskey. Neue Odessa Bar serves some of the best top-shelf drinks around. Though the bar is small and a constant crowd of the best-dressed hipsters in town will aim to keep you from your gin, once you summon your drink, you’ll be sure to find space to sip and breathe at one of the many tables around the bar. A live DJ spinning electro-poppy American indie rock completes the scene.
U6: Rosa-Luxemburg-Pl. From the metro, walk 2 blocks east on Torstr. to the corner of Torstr. and Chorinerstr. Beer €3. Cocktails €6-8. Cash only. Open daily 7pm-late.
Prenzlauer Berg
Prenzlauer Berg has one of the highest birth rates in all of Germany, meaning that you aren’t going to find many crazy clubs that rage until the sun comes up. There’s less techno, more lounging, and far earlier quiet hours (starting around midnight) than other parts of Berlin. Prenzlauer Berg’s nightlife is calm but still worth checking out. The bars are some of the most unforgettable in town, and, since they fill and empty a bit earlier, they’re perfect before you head out to later, clubbier climes.
THE WEINEREI: FORUM
BAR
Fehrbelliner Str. 57
030 440 69 83
With its dim lighting and kitschy, mismatched, super comfy furniture, Weinerei Forum dillies up some of the best and cheapest coffee and food in the neighborhood. Wait, it gets better. From 8pm to midnight, this place holds Berlin’s most lively wine tasting: you pay €2 for a glass, you try any of their several wine varieties, and at the end of it all, you put as much money as you “think you owe” in a jar. Now, if you just read this as “€2 for unlimited wine!!!” you’re not the kind of cool cat the forum is trying to attract. As you leave without putting any money or just a few euro cents in that jar, you’ll get scowled at and possibly called out. Weinerei Forum wants you to be the judge of the value of your wine and food; while that’s totally awesome and a great way to spend an evening, it doesn’t mean it’s a freebie.
U2: Senefelderpl. From the metro, exit by the northern stairs, then head west on Schwedter Str. Turn left onto Kastanienalle, then veer right onto Veteranenstr., a block down the hill. The bar is on the corner of Veteranenstr. and Fehrbelliner Str. Cash only. Open M-Sa 10am-late, Su 11am-late. Wine flows 8pm-midnight every night, so let that guide you.
DR. PONG
BAR, PING PONG
Eberswalder Str. 21
Dr. Pong is a bar uniquely devoted to ping pong. Aside from a ping pong table and a drinks station, there’s nothing else in the room. Watch the pros play a game or make a fool of yourself; though the environment is exceedingly competitive, beginners are still welcome. Order an Andro Susskind (€6), a delicious drink which Dr. Pong describes as “Sticky as a long, slow, summertime fuck.”
U2: Eberswalder Str. From the metro, head east on Eberswalder Str. The bar is on the left. Cover €3.50; includes 1 beer. Must be 18 or older to enter. Beer €2.70. Cocktails €4.50-5.50. Cash only. Open M-Sa 8pm-late, Su 6pm-late.
SCOTCH AND SOFA
BAR
Kollwitzstr. 18
030 440 42 371
Retro. Stylish. Classic. Scotch and Sofa defines what a bar should be, with comfortable spaces to lounge about. Come to Scotch and Sofa to sip your scotch or whiskey, talk about something intellectual, and osmose the coolness of the atmosphere. Take some advice, though: if you aren’t already experienced in the whole classy-scotch-drinking game, pick the cheapest option on the mile-long menu. It all tastes good, and your wallet will thank you.
U2: Senefelderpl. From the metro, exit by the northern stairs, then head southeast on Metzer Str. After passing the grocery store, turn left onto Kollwitzstr. The bar is on the right, half a block up Kollwitzstr. Scotch from €5. Open daily 6pm-very late. Happy hour daily 6-7pm; cocktail of the day €3.80.
WOHNZIMMER
BAR
Lettestr. 6
030 445 54 58
This bar is laid back, and when we say that, we mean grab a beer (€2.60) and lie on a chaise lounge or one of the many super comfy couches in the “living room.” Wohnzimmer is a smoking bar, so the patrons tend to be in their late 20s and exude philosophical vibes. Nostalgia abounds.
U2: Eberswalder Str. From the metro, head east on Danziger Str., turn left onto Lychener Str., then right onto Lettestr., just past the park. The bar is on the left, at the corner of Lettestr. and Schliemannstr. Beer €2.50-3. Cocktails €4-5. Cash only. Open daily 9am-late.
DUNCKER
CLUB
Dunckerstr. 64
030 445 95 09
Duncker used to be a stable, and it still kinda looks like one. In all of Prenzlauer Berg, this is the craziest club, and it might even rival Stasi-bunker clubs. The interior is decorated with chain mail and armor and pretty much anything else you associate with horses. Dunker is frequented by 20-somethings and serves as a venue for a host of live music events. Ring the bell for entry.
U2: Eberswalder Str. From the metro, head east on Danziger Str., then turn left on Dunckerstr. Walk north on Dunckerstr. until you reach the bridge over the train tracks. The club is on the left, in the darkened building immediately past the bridge. Goth music M. Eclectic DJs Tu-W. Live bands Th. “Independent dance music” F-Sa. Throwback DJs Su. “Dark Market” goth flea market Su 1pm. Cover varies, usually less than €5; no cover on Th. Beer €2.50. Long drinks €4.50. F-Sa all drinks max. €2. Cash only. Open M-W 9pm-late, Th 10pm-late, F-Sa 11pm-late, Su 10pm-late.
ZU MIR ODER ZU DIR
BAR
Lychener Str. 15
017 624 412 940
Zu Mir oder Zu Dir literally means, “My place or yours?” and it’s a question you’re quite likely to find yourself asking or answering in this bar. Entrance is only permitted for those over 21, which turns our smiles upside down. Still, this might be the easiest place to drop the “Zu Mir oder Zu Dir?” question in Prenzlauer Berg, so we’ll let you decide how to run with that.
U2: Eberswalder Str. From the metro, head east on Danziger Str., then turn left onto Lychener Str. Zu Mir oder Zu Dir is in the line of bars to the left. Beer €2-3. Cocktails €4.50-5. Long drinks €5-8. Cash only. Open daily 8pm-late.
BEER GARDEN
Kastanienallee 7-9
030 448 56 88
Prater Garten claims to be the oldest and prettiest beer garden in all of Berlin, and, though we generally try to keep away from superlative adjectives, we do think it’s pretty swell. Like any good beer garden, Prater Garten serves up its own cheap brews (0.4L Prater Schwarzbier €3.50), a lot of sunshine, and a whole bunch of rowdy nights.
U2: Eberswalder Str. From the metro, head southwest on Kastanienallee. The beer garden is halfway down the 1st block on the right. Weisswurst €3. Beer €2.50-3.50. Cash only. Open in good weather Apr-Sept daily noon-late (usually until midnight or 1am).
Friedrichshain
Barren factory-scapes, heavily graffitied walls, and blinding floodlights may not be the most inviting obstacles to navigate in the dead of night, but such is the environment that hides some of Friedrichshain’s—and Berlin’s—biggest and most bangin’ techno clubs. The old warehouses along Revaler Strasse hold the lion’s share of sprawling dance floors, but you might want to branch out a little to avoid a double-digit cover.
ROSI’S
CLUB
Revaler Str. 29
The first impression tells all: amazing music, amazing beats, amazing people. There’s never a dull moment at Rosi’s between its combination of indoor and outdoor clubbing. Outside, you’ll find a dire pit, ping-pong, a small dance floor, and a tiny grill. Inside, you’ll find more graffiti than you thought could exist in a single room, Indiana Jones-themed pinball, dancing, more dancing, and more music. Rosi’s is at the opposite end of Revaler Str. from the main club complex, meaning that natural selection weeds out most of the tourist riff-raff on the dark walk over. By the way, we don’t advise you to take that dark walk, either. Just grab a cab, and if you’re already sloshed, just be sure you can say “Rosi’s” as you get in the car. Parties start and end late, so this is a perfect place to end your night.
U1, S3, S5, S7, S9, or S75: Warschauer Str. From the metro, walk north on Warschauer Str., turn right onto Revaler Str., and walk about 10min.; Rosi’s is on the right. Cover €3-7. Cash only. Open Th-Sa 11pm-late.
ASTRO-BAR
BAR
Simon-Dach-Str. 40
Astro-Bar is quirky. The interior features Transformers action figures displayed behind the bar, with green light all around. Light-years of lounge and table space line the walls, while the dim lighting from orb-shaped lamps may make you feel lost in space. With a new DJ every night, Astro-Bar provides a ton of tunage, from punk to power pop to Britfunk to every head-scratching subgenre under the sun. Astro-Bar is an extremely popular bar with the 20-something set; the kids just keep coming back for the booze, the tunes, and the feeling that they’re floating in space.
U5: Frankfurter Tor. From the metro, head south on Warschauer Str., turn right onto Grünberger Str., then turn right onto Simon-Dach-Str. Beer from €2.50. Mixed drinks from €5. Cash only. Open daily 6pm-late.
K-17
CLUB
Pettenkoferstr. 17
K-17 could hardly be farther from everything else. Literally: it’s in the middle of nowhere. But you know what? A walk is all it takes to prevent fannypacking tourists from lining up outside. This towering club has a spacious dance floor and bar on each of its four floors. Metal and all things loud and crunchy blast from the speakers of each floor, attracting a mostly black-clad crowd that will inevitably think you’re preppy. Concerts are usually once per week, so keep an eye on the website for dates and prices.
U5: Frankfurter Allee. Once you’re on Pettenkoferstr., keep an eye out for signs; the club is off the road on the right. Cover €6. Beer €2.50. Vodka and coke €3.50. Open F-Sa 10pm-late.
ABGEDREHT
BAR
Karl-Marx-Allee 140
030 293 81 911
Abgehdreht doesn’t have very much personality. It tries to attract a metal crowd, but they’re all too busy frequenting more authentic F’Hain hoots, like Jägerklause just around the corner. Sheet music papers the walls, and leather couches clump around antique sewing tables, all of which are puzzling in a bar whose name means “high” in colloquial German. Though the crowd generally falls in the 30+ range and you likely won’t remember Abgedreht after you leave Berlin, this is one of the more accessible points of entry into the neighborhood’s metal scene.
U5: Frankfurter Tor. From the metro, walk west on Karl-Marx-Allee until you pass the building with the huge, copper tower. Beer €3-4 per 0.5L. Traditional German foods like bratwurst and Wienerschnitzel around €9. Cash only. Open daily 5pm-late. Happy hour 7-9pm (cocktails from €4).
SANITORIUM 23
BAR
Frankfurter Allee 23
030 420 21 193
Located on one of those wide boulevard DDR streets, Sanitorium is another place designed to ease you into the Friedrichshain scene. This bar plays light, almost clinical techno to guests that lounge on sleek, backless couches shaped like cubes. As much as we hate blatant marketing, we do love free booze, so check in at Sanitorium on Facebook for a free shot.
U5: Frankfurter Tor. Beer €2.50-3.50. Cocktails €5.50-8. Cash only. Open M-Sa 6pm-late, Su 7pm-late.
FRITZ CLUB
CLUB
Prinzessinnenstr. 1
030 698 12 80
Though Fritz Club’s top 40 dance floor is packed and its techno floor is sparsely attended, the venue still has some charm. This place has a heavy tourist following, but the club also has three dance floors that allow you to choose between techno, American pop, and American rock. A huge outdoor rock garden that’s more desert than oasis provides some space to lounge and let your sweat evaporate, while bars strewn liberally about the complex prevent you from going dry. Though it’s a bit far, a relatively cheap cover and a constant stream of 20-year-olds ready to pump their fists make this one of the highlights off Mühlenstr.
S3, S5, or S75: Ostbahnhof. From the metro, walk south on Str. der Pariser Kommune, turn left onto Mühlenstr., and take the 1st left toward the big complex of warehouses. The club is on the right side of these warehouses. Beer €3-3.50. Cover €6. Cash only. Club open F-Su 11pm-late and select weekdays. Check the website for a calendar of events. Concerts start at 9pm.
RED ROOSTER
BAR
Grünbergerstr. 23
017 655 555 023
Though the Red Rooster fills up with a crowd of international backpackers pretty much every evening, it retains an only-in-Berlin atmosphere. We aren’t sure if the red and black aesthetic is meant to channel the DDR, but with an outdoor patio and a porch swing, the Rooster is hardly an oppressive environment. Inside, the bartenders serve cider and Czech beers on tap from behind an old wood countertop. For the particularly outgoing (or the desperate backpacker), “perform 4 stay” events invite you to sing for a free beer—or even a free bed! The drunken crowing that results is where we assume the name comes from.
U5: Frankfurter Tor. Walk south on Warschauer Str. and turn right onto Grünberger Str. Beer from €2.50-3. Cash only. Open M-Th 5pm-1am, F-Sa 5pm-3am, Su 5pm-1am.
CLUB, BEER GARDEN, RESTAURANT, MUSIC VENUE
Revaler Str. 99
030 473 85 949
Cassiopeia is set in a Kunsthaus, a word that makes us starry-eyed just thinking about it. The place is covered in graffiti, and it stays cool around the clock: there’s clubbing, beer drinking, swinging, painting, rock climbing, eating, and listening, all wrapped into one awesome location. Occasionally, the club hosts concerts, usually starting around 8pm; check out the list of bands you’ve never heard of on the website. Unfortunately, the cover that can move into the double digits during prime times, so the budget traveler may have to remain content with gazing at the Cassiopeia in the sky.
U1, S3, S5, S7, S9, or S75: Warschauer Str. Cover €5-16. Vodka €2.50. Beer €2.50-3. Cash only. Open W-Sa 11pm-late.
JÄGERKLAUSE
BAR, BEER GARDEN
Grünbergerstr. 1
017 622 286 892
Jägerklause is surrounded by an ornate iron fence and a bunch of shrubbery that makes this little beer garden feel like its in another country. If you’re not the lounge and drink and eat wurst type, Jägerklause is also a wild bar. The bar is frequented by pin-up stylers, leather-cladbikers, and the old T-shirt and ripped-jeans crowd, and you’ll know it from the presence of antlers in Jägerklause’s decorations. The pub has a dance floor and features live bands from Wednesday to Saturday. Check the website calendar for dates and deets.
U5: Frankfurter Tor. From the metro, walk south on Warschauer Str. Turn right onto Grünberger Str. Jägerklause is on the right. Beer €3.10. Beer garden open Tu-F 2-10pm, Sa-Su 11am-10pm. Pub open Tu-Su 11am-late.
Kreuzberg
If you came to Berlin for nightlife and you’ve visited some places in other neighborhoods, you’ve probably been left wondering why on earth Berlin has the reputation it boasts. And the answer, dear friend, is Kreuzberg. Kreuzberg is world-renowned for its unbelievable techno scene. Converted warehouses, wild light displays, destructive speaker systems, and packed dance floors cluster around Schlesisches Tor, but some of the best spots are scattered more widely. Kreuzberg is one of Berlin’s most notoriously nocturnal neighborhoods, so expect the parties to rage from about 2am to well past dawn.
CLUB TRESOR
CLUB
Köpenicker Str. 70
030 629 08 750
Guess what? Club Tresor is housed in a massive warehouse. “Gee, just like every other club in Berlin, right?” Wrong! With its motto of “Berlin must be new,” Club Tresor is like no other. For one, there’s a strobe light, but it manages to be cool rather than kitschy. The dance floor in the basement is so big that you can easily get away from that one guy who manages to be lame in the coolest club in Berlin. Upstairs, a brighter, redder, and more comfortable floor plays tight house tracks, which serve as a perfect warm-up or cool-down. Make the trek, stay all night, and have your nightmares later.
U8: Heinrich Heinestr. Cover €8-15. Cash only. Usually open W 11:59pm-late, F-Sa 11:59pm-late, but check the website for a schedule.
CLUB DER VISIONAERE
CLUB, BAR
Am Flutgraben 1
030 695 18 942
CDV is pretty much the only Berlin club that is not, in fact, in a warehouse. Instead, it’s going for that whole “underrated” feeling, because it’s still not as well-known as Watergate (see below) despite incredibly high ratings. It’s a boat, it’s a club, it’s a riverfront cabana. Unfortunately, it’s packed, and packed with slightly awkward British tourists at that. A DJ spins inside a mini, indoor club, but the fun is definitely outside, where you can sip rum drinks, dip your feet in the river, or jump into the river while screeching some Britney Spears lyrics you remember from your childhood. So relaxing, so visionary, so Berlin.
U1: Schlesisches Tor. From the metro, head southeast on Schlesischestr. Cross the 1st canal; when you reach the 2nd, the club is on the left next to the bridge. Cover €4-15. Beer €2.50-3.50. Long drinks €5.50. Cash only. Open M-F 2pm-late, Sa-Su noon-late.
ARENA CLUB
CLUB
Eichenstr. 4
030 533 20 30
Though Arena’s pool might be cooler than its dance club, it must be said: Arena is pretty damn awesome. Unfortunately, the club (unlike the pool/sauna) is not floating in the Spree. It’s just another old, converted factory. There’s a ton of space for lounging and taking a break from dancing to the beats, with cushy, square booths that are perfect for snuggling. Arena keeps the juice flowing with two full bars and two full dance floors, both of which scream techno all night long.
U1: Schlesisches Tor. From the metro, head south on Schlesischestr. across both canal bridges. The Arena complex is the large industrial set of buildings on the left after the 2nd bridge. Cover €5-10. Cash only. Party hours vary, but usually open F-Sa midnight-late.
WATERGATE
CLUB
Falckensteinstr. 49
030 612 80 396
Oh the exclusivity! It’s so enticing! Even if we didn’t put this place in the book, you’d probably end up going anyway. You’ll get to enjoy waiting in a long, long line (min. wait 30min.), but if you manage to endure the queue and get past the bouncer (are you sure your shirt isn’t too casual?), you’ll get to post a Facebook status bragging about visiting “the World’s most exclusive club.” Okay, enough ripping on Watergate: groups should split up, especially sausage fests. Inside, you’ll find a gorgeous, Spree-level view, a boat where you can cool off, and a dance floor that’s so packed, so loud, and so long that you’ll probably momentarily forget the world while you’re there. The whole place is spectacular and enticing, but for authenticity’s sake, we urge you to seek out some other Kreuzberg clubs, too. Watergate is like Nixon’s presidency: ruined by nosy Americans.
U1: Schlesisches Tor. From the metro, head toward the bridge. It’s the unmarked door at the top of the stairs, just before the river. There’ll be a line (there always is). Cover €8-20. Mixed drinks €6.50. Cash only. Open W midnight-late, F-Sa midnight-late.
RITTER BUTZKE
CLUB
Ritterstr. 24
If you’re looking for a place that’s “off the beaten track” (at least for tourists), this is it. One of Berlin’s only clubs to feature a Gästeliste, or guest list, in addition to regular admission for n00bs and natives without friends in high places, Ritter Butzke’s complex, nestled in the alleyways of an old factory building, is one of Kreuzberg’s most well-known and best-kept secrets. The three dance floors vary from small and intimate to medium-sized and cramped to expansive and accommodating to even the most notorious toe-steppers. Pick your poison.
U1: Prinzenstr. From the metro, head northeast on Prinzenstr. for 2 blocks, then turn left onto Ritterstr. Halfway down the block, turn into the courtyard shaded by trees on the right. The entrance to the club is at the end of this courtyard. Cover around €10. Shots €2-2.50. Beer €2-3. Long drinks €5-6. Cash only. Hours vary, but generally open F midnight-late, Sa 10pm-late. Check the website for full calendar of events.
LUZIA
BAR, CAFE
Oranienstr. 34
030 817 99 958
Kreuzberg is covered with clubs, but where are all the bars? Well, they’re superfluous because Luzia is such a great bar that they’d all fall short in comparison. Luzia is huge and tremendously popular with the Kreuzberg locals, most of whom are UK transplants who think of themselves as German artists. Whatever, this is still a great bar. Gold-painted walls glow softly in the light of flickering candles. The huge, L-shaped design allows for long lines of vintage, threadbare lounge chairs, cafe tables, and a bar so long that it can easily serve the crowd that swarms here at peak hours.
U1 or U8: Kotbusser Tor. From the metro, head northeast up Aldabertstr. and turn left onto Oranienstr. The bar is on the right. The only sign is a large, black rectangle with a gold coat of arms in the middle. Beer €2.50-3.50. Long drinks €5-6. Absinthe €3-7. Cash only. Open daily noon-late.
MAGNET CLUB
CLUB, MUSIC VENUE
Falckensteinstr. 48
030 440 08 140
Magnet wishes it were in New Orleans: it’s the sort of place that hosts ladies’ cage wrestling competitions. Patrons include locals who come for the DJ and furious tourists who got rejected from Watergate next door. Indie bands play on a short, shallow stage that makes it seem as though they’re part of the crowd, and DJs spin a much lighter mix than their Kreuzberg counterparts—think indie electropop. Magnet tries hard to one-up its peaceful indie followers, offering free Jager shots (while the stock lasts) a couple of nights a week.
U1: Schlesisches Tor. From the metro, head toward the bridge. An “M” hangs above the door. Cover €3-7. Shots €2-2.50. Beer €2.50-3. Long drinks €6-6.50. Usually open Tu-Su from 10pm. Check online for exact schedule.
SO36
BAR, CLUB
Oranienstr. 190
030 614 01 306
SO36 was probably amazing in 1970. For one thing, seeing David Bowie on a dance floor might make your heart stop. But today, SO36 is less of a club and more of a relic, a tribute to better music and better times. The various parties, live shows, and cultural presentations that fill this huge hall attract a mixed gay/straight clientele whose common denominator is that they like to party hardy. Gayhane, a gay cabaret that performs the last Saturday of every month, has become a staple of the Berlin GLBT scene and can get pretty epic.
U1 or U8: Kottbusser Tor. From the metro, walk north on Adalbertstr. and turn right onto Oranienstr. The club is on the right. Cover varies. Shots €2.20. Beer €2.80-3.50. Wine €3. Long drinks €5.50, with Red Bull €6. Cash only. Hours vary, but usually open F-Sa 10pm-late.
ROSES
GLBT, BAR
Oranienstr. 187
030 615 65 70
At first glance, it might look like a kink shop, but, rest assured, the fuzzy pink walls and the omnipresent cheetah print make this gay bar a sight for sore eyes. Gay men, some lesbian women, and a couple of straight groups (there to camp out in campy glory) join together for small talk over some clean electronic. The bar’s small size makes mingling easy, and the endless assortment of wall trinkets (glowing mounted antlers, twinkling hearts, a psychedelic Virgin Mary) keep everyone giggling.
U1 or U8: Kottbusser Tor. From the metro, head northwest on Oranienstr. past Mariannenstr. The bar is on the left. Beer €2.50. Cocktails €5, with Red Bull €6. Cash only. Open daily 9pm-late.
ARTS AND CULTURE
As the old saying goes, “Where there be hipsters, there be Arts and Culture.” Though the saying’s origins are unclear, it certainly applies to Berlin. Whether it’s opera, film, or Brecht in the original German that you’re after, Berlin has got you covered. For a magical evening at the symphony, grab a standing-room-only ticket to see the Berliner Philharmoniker or grab a rush seat to see the Deutsche Oper perform Wagner’s four-opera cycle, The Ring of the Nibelung. If rock, pop, indie, or hip hop are more your style, head to Kreuzberg to check out Festsaal Kreuzberg and Columbiahalle. Nearby, English Theater Berlin will satisfy any Anglophone’s theater cravings, while the Deutsches Theater in Mitte hosts performances of the German classics as well as the English canon in translation. The truly hip should head straight to Lichtblick Kino or Kino Babylon to find radical documentaries, avant-garde films, and a sea of retro frames and flannel.
Music and Opera
BERLINER PHILHARMONIE
MITTE
Herbert-von-Karajan-Str. 1
030 254 88 999
If you fancy yourself to be a fan of classical music, you’d better have heard of the Berlin Phiharmoniker. Led by Sir Simon Rattle, the Philharmoniker is considered one of the world’s finest, if not the finest, orchestras. Concerts take place in the Philharmonie, a decidedly huge and weird-looking concert hall near Potsdamer Platz. The bright yellow building was designed to be pitch perfect: every member of the audience gets an adequately full view and incredibly full sound. With most concerts selling out about a month in advance, it can be pretty tough to get a seat, so check the website for availability. For sold-out concerts, some tickets and standing room may be available 90min. before the concert begins, but only at the box office. Stand in line, get some cheap tickets if you’re lucky, and enjoy some of the sweetest sounds known to mankind.
S1, S2, S25, or U2: Potsdamer Pl. From the metro, head west on Potsdamer Str. Tickets for standing room from €7, for seats from €15. Open from Jul-early Sept. Box office open M-F 3-6pm, Sa-Su 11am-2pm.
DEUTSCHE STAATSOPER
MITTE
Unter den Linden 7
030 203 54 555
The Deutsche Staatsoper is notorious for its splendor. Though its presence and patronage suffered during the years of separation, this opera house is rebuilding its reputation and its repertoire of Baroque opera and contemporary pieces. Unfortunately, its exterior is under extensive renovation, and the usual opera house is closed until mid-2014. Until its main building reopens, the Staatsoper presents performances in the sticks—Schiller Theater in Charlottenberg.
U6: Französische Str. Or bus #100, 157, or 348: Deutsche Staatsoper. Tickets €14-260. For certain seats, students can get a ½-price discount, but only within 4 weeks of the performance and only at the box office. Unsold tickets €13, 30min. before the show. Open Aug through mid-Jul. Box office open daily noon-7pm and 1hr. before performances.
DEUTSCHE OPER BERLIN
CHARLOTTENBURG
Bismarckstr. 35
030 343 84 343
The Deutsche Oper Berlin’s original home, the Deutsches Opernhaus, was built in 1911 but (surprise!) was decimated by Allied bombs. Today, performances take place in Berlin’s newest opera house, which looks like a gigantic concrete box. If you have the chance, don’t pass up a cheap ticket to see one of Berlin’s most spectacular performances.
U2: Deutsche Oper. Tickets €16-122. 25% student discount when you buy at the box office. Unsold tickets €13, 30min. before the show. Open Sept-Jun. Box office open M-Sa 11am until beginning of the performance or 11am-7pm on days without performances, Su 10am-2pm. Evening tickets available 1hr. before performances.
FESTSAAL KREUZBERG
KREUZBERG
Skalitzerstr. 130
030 611 01 313
Free jazz, indie rock, swing, electropop—you never know what to expect at this absurdly hip venue. A tremendous chasm of a main hall accommodates acts of all shapes and sizes, plus an overflowing crowd of fans packed together on the main floor and the mezzanine. A dusty courtyard out front features a bar and novelty acts like fire throwers. Poetry readings, film screenings, and art performances fill out the program with appropriately eclectic material, making this one of Berlin’s most exciting venues.
U1 or U8: Kottbusser Tor. From the U-Bahn, head east on Skalitzerstr. The venue is on the left. Tickets €5-20. Shots €2. Long drinks €6. Hours vary. Usually open F-Sa 9pm-late. Check website for details.
COLUMBIAHALLE
KREUZBERG
Columbiadamm 13-21
030 698 09 80
Any venue that features Snoop Dogg, The Specials, and Bon Iver in a matter of a couple months has a special place in our hearts. With a wildly eclectic collection of superstars and indie notables from all over the world, Columbiahalle’s calendar is bound to make you gasp and say, “I definitely wanna see that,” at least twice. Once a gym for American service members in south Kreuzberg, Columbiahalle may look dated and innocuous, but its standing-room-only floor and mezzanine sure can rage.
U6: Platz der Luftbrücke. From the metro, head east on Columbiadamm. The venue is in the 1st block on the right. Tickets €20-60, depending on the act. Hours and dates vary, but concerts tend to start at 8pm. Check the website for more details.
Film
Finding English films in Berlin is almost as easy as finding the Fernsehturm. On any night, choose from over 150 different films, marked O.F. or O.V. for the original version (meaning not dubbed in German), O.m.U for original version with German subtitles, or O.m.u.E. for original film with English subtitles.
LICHTBLICK KINO
PRENZLAUER BERG
Kastanienallee 77
030 440 58 179
Lichtblick is a charming cinema. The 32-seat theater presents avant-garde films and radical documentaries, as well as a wildly eclectic range of movies. English films are intermixed with all sorts of other international fare, and all films are shown with the original sound and accompanied by German subtitles, so you won’t need to perform any amazing feats of lip-reading for any of the many English films. With a bar in the main entrance and a couple guys reading philosophical novels by candlelight, this is the quintessential art house experience.
U8: Eberswalder Str. From the metro, walk southwest on Kastanienallee, past Oderberger Str. The theater is near the end of the next block on the left. Tickets €5, students €4.50. 2-5 films shown every night, check the website for a calendar. Usually 5-10pm.
KINO BABYLON
MITTE
Rosa-Luxemburg-Str. 30
030 242 59 69
Americans, Brits, and Berliners alike flock to this spunky, independent film house with a commitment to classic international cinema. Silent films, fiction readings, and constant themed retrospectives guarantee that you’ll have a chance to see something new and interesting alongside the classics. Casanova, anyone? Occasional summer screenings happen outdoors on the beautiful Rosa-Luxemburg-Pl.—and epic screenings of Rocky Horror Picture Show go down regularly. Unfortunately, outside of the frequent American classics, English is a bit hard to come by, as most subtitles are in German.
U2: Rosa-Luxemburg-Pl. From the metro, walk south on Rosa-Luxemburg-Str. Tickets €4-8. The schedule changes daily; check website for details. Box office open M-F from 5pm until the 1st film of the evening.
ARSENAL
MITTE
In the Filmhaus at Potsdamer Pl.
030 269 55 100
Run by the founders of Berlinale and located just below the Museum for Film and Television, Arsenal showcases independent films and some classics. Discussions, talks, and frequent appearances by guest directors make the theater a popular meeting place for Berlin’s filmmakers. With the majority of films in the original with English subtitles, non-Germans can watch easy.
U2, S1, S2, or S25: Potsdamer Pl. From the metro, head west on Potsdamer Str. and go into the building labeled “Deutsche Kinemathek.” Take the elevator down to the 2nd basement level. Tickets €6.50, students €5. 3-5 films shown each night. Films usually start 4-8pm. Check the website for a full calendar.
CENTRAL KINO
MITTE
Rosenthaler Str. 39
030 285 99 973
A small theater right in the middle of Mitte, this place shows indie German fare, award-winning American films, and other international cinema, mostly in the original language with German subtitles. While the screens aren’t huge, the location is prime. It’s located near Hackesher Markt in a heavily graffitied courtyard; one theater is even outside.
S3, S5, or S7: Hackescher Markt. From the metro, walk north on Rosenthaler Str., past the Hackesche Höfe, and the theater is in a courtyard next door. €6.50, students €6. Open daily before the 1st movie noon-3pm.
Theater
ENGLISH THEATER BERLIN
KREUZBERG
Fidicinstr. 40
030 693 56 92
Though all the shows here are presented in English, it’s hard to find a theater that is more “Berlin.” From 10min. skits to full-out festivals, the English Theater tries out every edge of the spectrum, and, boy, is this place ever edgy. We hear that most shows feature naked people and cabbages.
U6: Pl. der Luftbrücke. From the metro, head north on Mehringdamm for 2 blocks and turn right onto Fidicinstr. The theater is on the left, within the 1st block. €13, students €8. Box office opens 1hr. before show. Shows are at 8pm unless otherwise noted. Check the website for a calendar of performances.
DEUTSCHES THEATER
MITTE
Schumann Str. 13a
030 284 41 225
Built in 1850, this world-famous theater was once controlled by legendary director Max Reinhardt and is still a cultural heavy hitter in Berlin. With even English dramas in translation (Shakespeare and Beckett are rockstars here), Anglophones shouldn’t expect to understand any of the words. Fortunately, the productions are gorgeous enough that they’re worth seeing in spite of the language barrier.
U6: Oranienburger Tor. From the U-Bahn, head south on Friederichstr., take a right onto Reinhartstr., then another right onto Albrecthstr €5-30. Box office open M-Sa 11am-6:30pm, Su 3-6:30pm. Shows are at 8pm unless otherwise noted.
VOLKSBÜHNE
MITTE
Linienstr. 227
030 24 06 55
Originally established to house productions of Socialist Realism at prices accessible to the working class, this imposing “people’s theater” looks like it came straight out of a utopian sci-fi thriller. While the enormous stage goes dark during the summer, alive with concerts, German and English theater, and touring performances and festivals from Sept-May. Productions range from Büchner to Brecht to an interactive contemporary work called “Revolution Now!”—you’ll probably leave more convinced of capitalist injustice than ever before. Before and after the shows, crowds gather in the beautiful plaza to smoke and talk.
U2: Rosa-Luxemburg-Pl. From the metro, walk south down Rosa-Luxemburg-Str. Tickets €6-30. Students get a 50% discount on certain performances; check the website. Box office open daily noon-6pm and 1hr. before performances. Shows are at 8pm unless otherwise noted.
Books
Finding English books in Berlin is about as easy as finding someone who speaks English: they’re everywhere, but they’re not always very good. Secondhand is the best way to offset the extra cost of English books.
ST. GEORGE’S BOOKSTORE
PRENZLAUER BERG
Wörtherstr. 27
030 817 98 333
You’d be hard-pressed to find a better English-language bookstore on the continent. St. George’s owner makes frequent trips to the UK and US to buy the loads of titles that fill the towering shelves. The books are stacked from the floor to the ceiling, and picturesque ladders stretch upward. Over half of the books are used and extremely well-priced (paperbacks €4-8), with a number of books for just €1. Pay in euro, British pounds, or American dollars (oh my!).
U2: Senefelderpl. From the metro, head southeast on Metzerstr. and turn left onto Prenzlauer Allee. Follow Prenzlauer Allee 3 blocks, then turn left onto Wörtherstr. The bookstore is halfway down the block, on the right. Used hardcovers €10. Open M-F 11am-8pm, Sa 11am-7pm.
ANOTHER COUNTRY
KREUZBERG
Riemannstr. 7
030 694 01 160
Browsing this cluttered secondhand English bookstore feels a little like walking around some guy’s house, but a wide and unpredictable collection rewards your searching, especially since all books are €2-5. Another Country doesn’t just want to be that forgettable place where you can buy a cheap copy of Twilight (which is in stock; €5); it wants to be a local library and cultural center. A small percentage of the books are labeled “lending only,” meaning they’re priced a little higher (around €10), and you get back the entire price, minus €1.50, when you return them. Plus, live acoustic performances, readings, and trivia add further incentive to return again and again. Check out the wide selection of “Evil Books,” which includes a copy of L. Ron Hubbard’s Dianetics, a book entitled The Quotable Richard Nixon, and Bradymania.
U7: Gneisenaustr. From the metro, walk south on Zossener Str. Turn right onto Riemannstr., and Another Country is on the left. Open Tu-F 11am-8pm, Sa-Su noon-4pm.
Music
SPACE HALL
KREUZBERG
Zossenerstr. 33, 35
030 694 76 64
They don’t make them like this anymore in the States—maybe they never did. With two addresses (one of just CDs, the other strictly vinyl), Space Hall makes it nearly impossible not to find what you’re looking for. The vinyl store never misses a beat, with the longest interior of any Berlin record store (painted to resemble a forest, of course) and easily one of the widest selections to boot. They also have an inspiring collection of rubber duckies.
U7: Gneisenaustr. From the metro, head south on Zossenerstr. The record store is on the left. CDs regular €10-20, discounted €3-10. LPs €10-30. Open M-W 11am-8pm, Th-F 11am-10pm, Sa 11am-8pm.
HARD WAX
KREUZBERG
Paul-Lincke-Ufer 44a
030 611 30 111
Walk down a silent alleyway, through an eerily quiet courtyard, up three flights of dim, graffitied stairs, and suddenly, you’re in one of Berlin’s best record stores for electronic music. Bare brick and concrete walls make it feel aggressively nonchalant, while an entire back room dedicated to private listening stations for patrons proves that Hard Wax is dedicated to helping you get out of the House. Here, you’ll find dubstep, IDM, ambient, and subgenres upon subgenres. Fortunately, nearly every CD and LP bears a short description in English courtesy of Hard Wax’s experts, so you’ll never feel like you’re randomly flipping through a lot of crap. Though the selection is small compared to some of Berlin’s other electro-record stores, the offerings seem hand-picked.
U1 or U8: Kottbusser Tor. From the U-Bahn, head south on Kottbusserstr. Take a left just before the canal, then enter the courtyard on the left just after crossing Mariannenstr. Records €5-30; most €8-12. CDs €10-20. Open M-Sa noon-8pm.
ESSENTIALS
Practicalities
• TOURIST OFFICES: Now privately owned, tourist offices merely give you some commercial flyer or refer you to a website instead of guaranteeing human contact. Visit www.berlin.de for reliable info on all aspects of city life. Tourist Info Centers. (Berlin Tourismus Marketing GmbH, Am Karlsbad 11 030 25 00 25 www.visitberlin.de. On the ground floor of the Hauptbahnhof, next to the northern entrance. English spoken. Siegessäule, Blu, and Gay-Yellowpages have GLBT event and club listings. Transit maps free; city maps €1-2. The monthly Berlin Programm lists museums, sights, restaurants, and hotels as well as opera, theater, and classical music performances, €1.75. Tip provides full listings of film, theater, concerts, and clubs in German, €2.70. Ex-Berliner has English-language movie and theater reviews, €2. Open daily 8am-10pm.) Alternate location. (Brandenburger Tor S1, S2, S25, or bus #100: Unter den Linden. On your left as you face the pillars from the Unter den Linden side. Open daily 10am-6pm.)
• STUDENT TRAVEL OFFICES: STA books flights and hotels and sells ISICs. (Dorotheenstr. 30 030 201 65 063 S3, S5, S7, S9, S75, or U6: Friedrichstr. From the metro, walk 1 block south on Friedrichstr., turn left onto Dorotheenstr., and follow as it veers left. STA is on the left. Open M-F 10am-7pm, Sa 11am-3pm.) Second location. (Gleimstr. 28 030 285 98 264 S4, S8, S85, or U2: Schönhauser Allee. From the metro, walk south on Schönhauser Allee and turn right onto Gleimstr. Open M-F 10am-7pm, Sa 11am-4pm.) Third location. (Hardenbergstr. 9 030 310 00 40 U2: Ernst-Reuter-Pl. From the metro, walk southeast on Hardenbergstr. Open M-F 10am-7pm, Sa 11am-3pm.) Fourth location. (Takustr. 47. 030 831 10 25 U3: Dahlem-Dorf. From the metro, walk north on Brümmerstr., turn left onto Königin-Luise Str., then turn right onto Takustr. Open M-F 10am-7pm, Sa 10am-2pm.)
• TOURS: Terry Brewer’s Best of Berlin is legendary for its vast knowledge and engaging personalities, making the 6hr.+ walk well worth it. Tours leave daily from in front of the Bandy Brooks shop on Friedrichstr. (017 738 81 537 www.brewersberlintours.com S1, S7, S9, S75, or U6: Friedrichstr €12. Tours start at 10:30am.) Insider Tour offers a variety of fun, informative walking and bike tours that hit all the major sights. More importantly, the guides’ enthusiasm for Berlin is contagious, and their accents span the English-speaking world. (030 692 3149 www.insidertour.com. Tours last 4hr.)
• CURRENCY EXCHANGE AND MONEY WIRES: The best rates are usually found at exchange offices with Wechselstube signs outside, at most major train stations, and in large squares. For money wires through Western Union, use ReiseBank. (
Hauptbahnhof 030 204 53 761 Open M-Sa 8am-10pm.) Second location. (Bahnhof Zoo 030 881 71 17.) Third location. (Ostbahnhof 030 296 43 93.)
• LUGGAGE STORAGE: In the Hauptbahnhof, in “DB Gepack Center,” 1st fl., east side €4 per day). Lockers also at Bahnhof Zoo, Ostbahnhof, and Alexanderpl.
• INTERNET ACCESS: Free internet with admission to the Staatsbibliothek. During its renovation, Staatsbibliothek requires €10 month-long pass to the library. (Potsdamer Str. 33 030 26 60 Open M-F 9am-9pm, Sa 9am-7pm.) Netlounge. (Auguststr. 89 030 24 34 25 97 www.netlounge-berlin.de Oranienburger Str. €2.50 per hr. Open daily noon-midnight.) Easy Internet has several locations throughout Berlin. (Unter den Linden 24, Rosenstr. 16, Frankfurter Allee 32, Rykestr. 29, and Kurfürstendamm 18.) Many cafes throughout Berlin offer free Wi-Fi, including Starbucks, where the networks never require a password.