Let’s Go Europe 2015

0844 335 1802 www.gatwickairport.com) takes around 30min., making it less convenient than Heathrow but less hectic, too. The swift and affordable train services that connect Gatwick to the city make the trip a little easier. The Gatwick Express train runs non-stop service to Victoria station. You can buy tickets in terminals, at the station, or on the train itself. (

0845 850 1530 www.gatwickexpress.com

1-way £19.90; 2-way £34.90. Round-trip ticket valid for a month.

First train at 3:30am, then 4:30am, then every 15min. from 5:00am-11:45pm., then last trains at midnight and 12:30am.)

National Express runs buses from the North and South terminals of Gatwick to London. The National Express bus (

0871 781 8178 www.nationalexpress.com) takes approximately 1½hr., and buses depart for London Victoria hourly. Taxis take about 1hr. to reach central London. easyBus (

084 4800 4411 www.easybus.co.uk) runs every 15min. from North and South terminals to Earls Court and West Brompton. (Tickets from £2.

65min., every 15min.)

Europeans are far ahead of Americans in terms of train travel, and London offers several ways to easily reach other European destinations. Multiple train companies pass through the city. The biggest are Eurostar (

08432 186 186 www.eurostar.com), which travels to Paris and Brussels, and National Rail (

08457 48 49 50 www.nationalrail.co.uk), which oversees lines running throughout the United Kingdom. Train travel in Britain is generally reliable but can be unreasonably expensive. Booking tickets weeks in advance can lead to large savings, but spur-of-the-moment train trips to northern cities could cost more than £100.

Bus travel is another (frequently cheaper) option. Eurolines (

08717 818 181 www.eurolines.co.uk

Open 8am-8pm) is Europe’s largest coach network, servicing 500 destinations throughout Europe. Many buses leave from Victoria Coach Station, at the mouth of Elizabeth St. just off Buckingham Palace Rd. Many coach companies, including National Express, Eurolines, and Megabus, operate from Victoria Coach. National Express is the only scheduled coach network in Britain and can be used for most intercity travel and for travel to and from various airports. It can also be used to reach Scotland and Wales.

Though there are daily interruptions to Tube service, the controlling network, Transport of London, does a good job of keeping travelers aware of these disruptions to service. Each station will have posters listing interruptions to service, and you can check service online at www.tfl.gov.uk or the 24hr. travel information service (

0843 222 1234). The website also has a journey planner that can plot your route using any public transport service (“TFL” is a verb here). Memorize that website. Love that website. Though many people in the city stay out into the wee hours, the Tube doesn’t have the same sort of stamina. When it closes around midnight, night owls have two choices: cabs or night buses.

Travel passes are almost guaranteed to save you money. The passes are priced based on the number of zones they serve (the more zones, the more expensive), but Zone 1 encompasses central London, and you’ll rarely need to get past Zone 2. If someone offers you a secondhand ticket, don’t take it. There’s no real way to verify whether it’s valid—plus, it’s illegal. Under 16s get free travel on buses. Passengers ages 11-15 enjoy reduced fares on the Tube with an Oyster Photocard. Students 18 and older must study full-time (at least 15hr. per week over 14 weeks) in London to qualify for the Student Photocard, which enables users to save 30% on adult travel cards and bus passes. It’s worth it if you’re staying for an extended period of time (study abroad kids, we’re looking at you).

Oxford has prestige written all over it. This city is home to the oldest university in the English-speaking world, and over the course of nearly 1,000 years, it has educated some of the most influential players in Western civilization. Students around the globe aspire to join the ranks of Adam Smith, Oscar Wilde, Stephen Hawking, and Bill Clinton—not to mention 26 British prime ministers and 12 saints.

But if you can’t join them, you might as well visit them. The city has plenty to entertain travelers of all persuasions: stunning college courtyards, centuries-old pubs, leafy river paths, occasionally rowdy clubs, and shops aplenty. During term time, rub shoulders with Oxford’s thousands of students; in the summer, the colleges empty, and the city fills with photo-hungry tourists and eager summer-school imports. Either way, you can expect to be in the comradely company of students and budget travelers—don’t panic if one or two of them actually refer to you as “comrade.”

Unlike Cambridge, though, Oxford does not hold its time-resistant bubble for long. Once you get outside of the center’s ancient streets and medieval architecture, the city comes (surprisingly) close to a modern metropolis. Don’t limit yourself to the sights you’ve seen on postcards—the town rewards those willing to take the short trek to the outlying neighborhoods or venture down its tiny, twisting side streets.

Carfax, at the crossroads of Oxford’s main shopping district, is the pulsing heart of the city. High Street, St. Aldate’s, Cornmarket Street, and Queen Street all converge by the Town Hall to create a tourist-mobbed area—beware of the stampede of gaping cameras and more-than-over-eager parents who will callously trample you as potential competition. Most of the university’s best-known colleges are located along High St. and the parallel roads to the north and south, with Christ Church around the corner on St. Aldate’s. The bus station is in the eastern corner of Carfax, following the direction of Queen Street, while the train station is a bit farther in the same direction, across the river.

If you walk north up Saint Giles (Cornmarket St. becomes Magdalen St., which then turns into St. Giles), then make a left onto Little Clarendon Street, you’ll reach Jericho. Home to the Oxford Canal, the Oxford University Press, and vibrant nightlife, this is Oxford’s up-and-coming bohemian neighborhood. The main Jericho drag, Walton Street, runs off of Little Clarendon.

On the other side of the city center, down the hill and across Magdalen Bridge, is the Cowley Road neighborhood, centered around the eponymous street and home to numerous ethnic eateries and local pubs, which offer a nice change of pace from blue-blooded, tourist-jammed Oxford.

Most people come to admire Oxford’s dozen or so aesthetically pleasing colleges, and we advise you to look at the university’s free info booklet, which details all of the colleges’ opening hours and admission fees. You can find it on the university’s website (www.ox.ac.uk) under “Visiting the University.” However, due to conferences, graduations, and general eccentricity, the hours open to tourists might change without further notice, like your favorite bureaucratic Kafka novel. If you’re traveling by yourself, you shouldn’t have a problem getting admitted, but as a tour group size increases, you might have to book a Blue Badge tour through the Tourist Information Centre (TIC). One of the best ways to get into the colleges for free—especially during term-time—is to attend a church service in the college chapels. Show up 15min. before a service starts and tell the people at the gate that you’d like to attend; they’ll usually let you in for free.

get a room!

Compared to Cambridge, Oxford has a surprisingly good selection of budget accommodations. Establishments are clustered around the train station and on Iffley Road; the former are closer to town and the city’s nightlife, but the latter are in a quieter and more sedate area near the shops and cafes on Cowley Rd. You can also visit www.letsgo.com for more Let’s Go recommendations.

CENTRAL BACKPACKERS

HOSTEL $

13 Park End St.

01865 242 288

www.centralbackpackers.co.uk

True to its name, this hostel is not only central but also filled with friendly backpackers excited to experience the latter part of Oxford’s “think and drink” culture. The rooftop garden is a lovely anomaly in the hostel scene, and the rooms are clean and not cramped. The clubs on the street level don’t stop believing until 3am. However, you can usually find a group to tag along with and partake in the libations yourself.

From the train station, follow Botley Rd. east toward the town cente; 12-bed dorms £20; 8-bed £21; 6-bed women-only £22; 4-bed £24. Reception open 8am-11pm.

The Ashmolean befits its dual honors of being the oldest university museum in the world and the most smorgasbordy collection in the UK (that’s just our own award). While the British Museum is great for a survey of colonialism, the Ashmolean tries to work within a world narrative by organizing their collection into equal parts “Eastern,” “Western,” and “West meets East.” As befits a university museum, the exhibits are highly educational; well-organized displays teach you about everything from the consolidation of northern European tribes to the decipherment of ancient Aegean scripts. As you feast on knowledge in this ivory tower, you can also feast on food, as the Ashmolean has Oxford’s only rooftop restaurant.

From Carfax (at the west end of High St.), head up Cornmarket St., then turn left onto Beaumont St. Free lunchtime gallery talks for 1st 12 who express interest Tu-F 1:15-2pm; pick up tokens at the information desk. Special exhibits £5-6.

Open Tu-Su 10am-6pm.

The Bodleian is one of the greatest libraries in the world, holding millions of volumes, including the normal trifecta of rare manuscripts (Shakespeare’s First Folio, the Gutenberg Bible, and the Magna Carta). However, there are also some neat deep cuts, like the oldest copy of The Song of Roland, the earliest surviving work of French Literature, and the Huntington MS 17, which is not a type of rifle but rather the oldest printing of the gospels in the West Nile dialect of Bohairic. The complex of 17th-century buildings surrounding the courtyard are impressive enough to justify the visit, but if you want to experience some inevitable Harry Potter déjà vu, you can take a tour. All tours go to the Divinity School, the oldest teaching room in the university; longer ones take you to the gorgeously ancient Reading Room and by the rotund Radcliffe Camera (a vital part of every TV serial that takes place in the city).

Entrances on Broad St., Catte St., and Radcliffe St.; take Catte St. off High St. Entrance to the courtyard free. Entrance to Divinity Hall £1. 30min. tour of Library and Divinity Hall £5, 1hr. tour £7, extended tour £13. Audio tour £2.50.

Open M-F 9am-5pm, Sa 9am-4:30pm, Su 11am-5pm.

There’s no such thing as referencing colonialism too many times, so we’re going to breach it once more. While not every one of the thousands of artifacts in Oxford’s archaeological and anthropological museum was acquired by colonial shopping at a 1000% discount, at least they’re not exploiting the items that were (admission is free). From macabre shrunken heads to provocative fertility statues, razor-like samurai swords to practical Maori spears, real Inuit furs to golden feathered cloaks, every shelf in every glass case teems with fresh wonders of the creativity and ingenuity of the human species. In classic Victorian style, every case is arranged not by culture, as is now the norm, but by theme, which brings the wonderfully stark comparisons to the dim, somber light around you. Giving you just enough information to whet your appetite for travel, understanding, and worldly experience, this is a must for any globetrotter.

From High St., take Catte St., which becomes Parks Rd. Walk through the Museum of Natural History on the right. Tours W 2:30 and 3:15pm. Audio tour £2. Free.

Open M noon-4:30pm, Tu-Su 10am-4:30pm.

Oxford’s entire appeal is founded on the fact that it is not modern at all. It’s such a creature of the past that you can barely go for a meal, drink, or piss without finding out that Tolkien ate, drank, and pissed there, too. That’s why this is your antidote to leaving the town covered in a thin film of historical dust. The museum rotates exhibits that are equal parts bizarre and incomprehensible: documentary films on things you didn’t even know you were interested in, strange series of short film collages, sculptures without plaques. Unlike the other Oxford museums, which justify their exhibits by over-explaining, the Modern Art museum justifies itself by not, and thus allows the visitor’s mind to wander creatively.

From Carfax, walk down Queen St. Turn left onto St. Ebbe’s St. Turn left onto Pembroke St. The gallery is on the left. Check online for current exhibits and night events. Bar open on event nights. Free.

Open Tu-W 10am-5pm, Th-Sa 10am-7pm, Su noon-5pm.

This was the site of the former City Church of Oxford (St. Martin’s Church). However, in 1896, university leaders decided that the bulk of the church needed to be demolished in order to make room for more traffic in the downtown area. Given the stagnant mass of tourist crowds that now mill around it below, that was probably a bad move. Despite its name sounding like an auto insurance price quote company, it actually comes from the French carrefour, or “crossroads,” which makes sense, as the tower marks the official center of Oxford. To prevent the Tower of Babel II (and thus more linguistic majors), no building in the city center may be taller; this means that from the top, you get an extraordinary view over the university’s spires.

£2.20, under 16 £1.10.

Open daily Apr-Sept 10am-5:30pm; Oct 10am-4:30pm; Nov-Mar 10am-3:30pm.

Sometimes disappearing down a dark passageway while following an underpaid, faux-torch-bearing actor is exactly what the doctor ordered. Oxford Castle will remind you that this hasn’t always been the safe student haven it is today. A shot of medieval intrigue and a sudden understanding of the immense past behind every street corner can finely tune your appreciation for Oxford (even if it is done in costume and outrageously overacted bits). Life was tough, no question. People were thrown into dungeons, hanged, murdered, tortured, and even brought back from the dead—all slightly more fun than clubbing in Cambridge.

Oxford’s most famous college has the university’s grandest quad and some of its most distinguished alumni. During the English Civil War, “The House” was home to Charles I and the royal family, who retreated to the Royalist-friendly university during Cromwell’s advance (and, when the city came under threat, escaped dressed as servants). Speaking of “Off with their heads,” the college is also notable as the place where Lewis Carroll first met Alice—the young daughter of the college dean. More recently, exploits in fantasy include the Harry Potter films, as some of the scenes were shot in the dining hall and central quad. For the Dark Ages version of magic, come here for Evensong to take a gander at the college for free and to experience the wonderful choir. Later on in the evening, listen for Great Tom, the seven-ton bell that has been rung 101 times (the original number of students/dalmatians) every evening since 1682 at 9:05pm to mark the original undergraduate curfew. And they say we live in an over-personalized age now. Today, it merely ushers in the beginning of an all-nighter sponsored by Red Bull, the internet, and shame.

Down St. Aldate’s from Carfax (at the west end of High St.). Depending on season £7-8.50, concessions £5.50-7.

Open M-Sa 10am-4:30pm, Su 2-4:30pm. Evensong daily 6pm.

Magdalen is spelled differently from its Cambridge counterpart, but pronounced in the same manner (MAUD-lin). With its winding riverbanks, flower-filled quads, and 100-acre grounds, Magdalen is possibly Oxford’s most attractive college. The contrast between the medieval quad and the 18th-century New Building (where C.S. Lewis lived) also makes for some impressive architectural observations. Magdalen boys have traditionally been quite a catch—the college has housed seven Nobel Prize winners, Dudley Moore, and Oscar Wilde—so put your wooing cap on. The college also has a pleasant deer park, where equally attractive deer have grazed aimlessly for centuries.

At the east end of High St., by the river. £5, concessions £4.

Open Jul-Sept daily noon-7pm; Oct-Jun 1-6pm or dusk.

Along with Merton and University, Balliol, founded in the 1260s, has a legitimate claim to being the oldest college in Oxford. Renowned for its PPE subject (Politics, Philosophy, and Economics), Adam Smith, Aldous Huxley, Christopher Hitchens, three British prime ministers, and six members of the Obama administration were produced from Balliol’s mismatched spires. Its grounds feel impressively medieval, complete with crenellated parapets surrounding the first court (for a less intimidating view, go through the hedges on the right-hand side, past the first court, for a picturesque garden).

From Carfax (at the west end of High St.), take Cornmarket St., then turn right onto Broad St. £2, students £1.

Open daily 10am-5pm or dusk.

Though Balliol and University were endowed before it, Merton has the earliest formal college statutes (1274), which helps to legitimize its boast of being the oldest college. Its traditions and high-achieving student body also give it a nerdy reputation. For example, the annual Time Ceremony has students dance around the Fellows Quad in full regalia, drinking port in celebration of the end of British Summer Time. JRR Tolkien was the Merton Professor of English here and spent his time casually inventing the Elvish language and writing a well-received minor trilogy on the side. The college’s 14th-century Mob Quad is Oxford’s oldest and one of its least impressive, while the nearby St. Alban’s Quad is home to some of the university’s best gargoyles.

From High St., turn down Magpie Ln., then take a left onto Merton St. £3.

Open M-F 2-5pm, Sa-Su 10am-5pm.

Despite its misleadingly inclusive name, this is the most exclusive school of the Oxford lot, and its entrance exam is considered to be the world’s hardest (although the Kobayashi Maru is the universe’s). Only a few dozen rise to the annual challenge; one past prompt was “Does the moral character of an orgy change when the participants wear Nazi uniforms?” Answer: if Prince Harry is there, no. Finalists are then invited to a dinner, where the dons confirm that they are “well-born, well-bred, and only moderately learned.” Ultimately, anywhere from zero to two graduate fellowships are offered each year (and include the great state architect T.E. Lawrence and great architect Christopher Wren). A walk around the college itself is one of quiet beauty and stony regality.

Entrance to the right of Catte St. from High St. Free.

Open Sept-Jul M-F 2-4pm.

Here’s one major perk of visiting a student town: kebab trucks. These student favorites line High St., Queen St., and Broad St. (we recommend Hassan’s on Broad St.), and stay open until 3am during the week and 4 or 4:30am on weekends.

In the summer, this garden is hands-down the best place for lunch in the entire city. Based out of the University Church of St. Mary the Virgin, the large garden offers picturesque views of the Bodleian Library, Radcliffe Camera, and nearby colleges. You can even stretch out and soak up the sun on picnic blankets while enjoying the Brideshead life (although the emphasis is less on champagne and strawberries than on scones and tea). Notwithstanding, the eponymous vaults are a worthy consolation prize if rain reigns. The organic, locally sourced menu changes daily, with fresh salads, sandwiches, and soups, as well as coffee, yogurt, and pastries.

Turn up St. Mary’s Passage off Queen St. or High St. 10% student discount. Lunch entrees £7-10. Tea items £2.20 each.

Open daily 8:30am-6:30pm.

This funky, outer space-themed restaurant offers a pop culture laden litany of delicious burgers, sides, shakes, and drinks. You can blow out your brain’s capacity Hitchhiker’s Guide-style with Zaphod’s Flaming Gargleblaster Margherita (tequila, triple sec, and absinthe; £7.50) or Pulp Fiction-style with a Big Kahuna burger. The inside of the restaurant looks like the bedroom of a child yearning to be an astronaut (or that of an adult with arrested development), but the joint is so earnestly not self-conscious that it makes you forget the heavy use of Comic Sans.

Follow High St. past Magdalen College and across Magdalen Bridge and head down Cowley Rd. All burgers come with a free side. 10% discount on takeout. Gluten-free options, vegetarian options. Burger with 1 side £6.75-9.25.

Open M-F noon-10:30pm, Sa-Su 10am-10:30pm.

We’re pretty sure there’s nothing in Interpretation of Dreams that explains what drinking and dancing in a cathedral means. Regardless of the inexplicable premise, Freud inhabits the vaulted interior of a 19th-century Greek Revival church, stained glass and all—if it wasn’t for the cafe tables on the portico outside, you’d never guess that this place serves food. The cafe progresses into a cocktail bar at night, with a DJ on the weekends. That may explain the disco ball, but it doesn’t make the presence of a cocktail menu above a church pew any more comprehensible.

From the train station, follow Botley Rd. toward the town center, bear left onto Hythe Bridge St., then left onto Worcester St., which becomes Walton St. Freud is on the right, next to Radcliffe Infirmary. Sandwiches and pizza £5.50-8. Appetizers and snacks £1.75-4.50. Cocktails £6-7.

Open M 5pm-midnight, Tu 5pm-1am, W 10:30am-1am, Th-Sa 10:30am-2am, Su 10:30am-midnight. Kitchen open daily until 10pm.

If the London clubbing scene is a nice Talisker, Oxford is a fair glass of Pinot Blanco, and Cambridge is a paper bag that once had Rubinoff and now has piss in it. Point being, nightlife here doesn’t incur the excitement of London, but it could be much, much worse. The main clubbing area in Oxford is near the train station, on Park End and Hythe Bridge Streets. Both of these split off from Botley Road (the train station’s home). The center of town has little in the way of dancing, but its many excellent pubs are perfect fora more laid-back evening.

Prepare yourself for claustrophobic tunnel vision as you consume enough flaming absinthe shots to become the green fairy incarnate. This underground bar is directly under the Oxford Union Debating Society, and true to form, you’re probably going to host the largest internal debate of your life when trying to decide which one of the 40 shooter options (based on the personalities of the different colleges) is really you. We’re going to put on our Sorting Hat and recommend the Slytherin shooter (green absinthe, apple sours) regardless. The dance floor can get a bit insanely cramped, but the DJs spin with a deft hand.

From Carfax, walk down Cornmarket St. Turn left onto Frewin Ct. Beer from £2. Shooters £2.50. Shots from £1.50. Open M-Sa 8pm-3am, Su 8pm-2am.

The Bear may be the oldest pub in Oxford—the current building was built in the 18th century, but previous incarnations go all the way back to 1242 (and since bears in Oxford went extinct in the 10th century, who knows?). Anyway, the pub does show its age with low ceilings and rickety stairs that make it slightly perilous for the tall and/or clumsy patron. But don’t let this put you off; the Bear is a great, unfussy place to enjoy a pint. The ties in the display cases have been given in exchange for half pints and hail from clubs and colleges around the world.

Off High St., just behind Christ Church. Pub quiz Tu 8:30pm. Live music W 9pm. Pints £3.50.

Open M-Th 11am-11pm, F-Sa 11am-midnight, Su 11:30am-10:30pm.

The King’s Arms embraced only men from 1607-1973, and as befits an old-guard vestige of the patriarchy, there are enough leather-bound booths and pervasive whiffs of mahogany to sufficiently prove its masculinity. However, the various traditional rooms don’t ooze the fabricated pubbiness of the chains, and it’s no surprise that professors sometimes hold office hours here. Brass tacks, it’s on students’ list of reliable pubs to hit when a Royal Baby is born, when Andy Murray wins Wimbledon, or when anything that will make day-drinking more excusable occurs.

Across the street from the Bodleian Library. On the corner between Holywell St. and Park St. Beer from £3.40.

Open daily 10:30am-midnight. Kitchen open until 9:30pm.

Radiohead debuted here back in 1984; since then, Jericho Tavern has been sold and bought, remodeled and rebranded, but has always remained an indie favorite and a good spot to find live music in Oxford. The heated outdoor beer garden is also a plus, especially if you get a Fruli Strawberry Beer (or, you know, something less girly) to enjoy out there. There’s live acoustic at 8pm on Sundays, and board games are available for further entertainment.

From Carfax, walk north on Cornmarket St., which becomes Magdalen St. Turn left onto Beaumont St., then right onto Walton St. The tavern is near the Phoenix Picturehouse. Pints around £3.50.

Open M-F noon-midnight, Sa 11am-midnight, Su noon-midnight. Kitchen closes at 10pm.

Known to locals as “The Playhouse,” this independent theater hosts student and amateur dramas, contemporary dance and music, comedy, lectures, and poetry. Whether it’s Philip Pullman and Neil Gaiman chatting or a production staged completely in the dark, whatever event is on will not be your average sit-and-pretend-to-appreciate-theater experience. In the summer, the theater puts on Shakespeare performances in the quad in front of the Bodleian Library (and also hosts Globe Theatre touring companies, meaning a trip to London is not necessary).

Down Beaumont St. from the Ashmolean Musem. Ticket prices vary. Advance concessions £2 off. Student standbys available day of show for £9.50.

Box office open M-Sa 10am-6pm or until 30min. after curtain, Su from 2hr. before curtain to 30min. after (performance days only). Cafe open 10am-11pm (closes at 5:30pm on non-performance nights).

•TOURIST OFFICES: The Tourist Information Centre (TIC) provides the free “What’s On In Oxford” guide, sells discounted tickets to local attractions, and books rooms with a 10% deposit. (15-16 Broad St.

From Carfax, take Cornmarket St., then turn right onto Broad St.

01865 252 200 www.visitoxford.org

Open M-Sa 9:30am-5pm, Su 10am-4pm. Closes 30min. earlier in winter.)

•STUDENT TRAVEL OFFICES: STA Travel. (Threeways House, 36 George St.

From Carfax, take Cornmarket St. Turn left onto George St. The office is on the right.

0871 702 9839 www.statravel.co.uk

Open M 10am-6pm, Tu-Th 9am-7pm, F 10am-7pm, Sa 10am-6pm, Su 11am-5pm.)

•TOURS: The official Oxford University Walking Tour leaves from the TIC and provides access to some colleges otherwise closed to visitors. The 2hr. tours are capped at 19 people and are booked on a first-come, first-served basis. You can get tickets up to 48hr. in advance at the TIC, by phone, or online. (

01852 726 871,

01865 252 200 to book tickets www.visitoxford.org

£8, children £4.50.

Tours daily in summer 11am and 1pm (additionally 10:45am and 2pm on Sa). Themed tours, like the C.S. Lewis, Harry Potter and J.R.R. Tolkien Tours run on a varied schedule; check with the TIC. (

£15, concessions £10.)

•CURRENCY EXCHANGE: Banks line Cornmarket St. Marks and Spencer has a bureau de change with no commission. (13-18 Queen St.

From Carfax, walk down Cornmarket St. M&S is on the right.

01865 248 075

Open M-W 8:30am-6:30pm, Th 8:30am-7:30pm, F 8:30am-6:30pm, Sa 8:30am-6:30pm, Su 11am-4:30pm.) There is also a bureau de change with no commission attached to (but not affiliated with) the TIC.

•INTERNET: Free at Oxford Central Library; however, there is often a wait during prime hours. Some stations are open to pre-booking if you know exactly when you’d like to use it. (Westgate

From Carfax, walk down Queen St. The library is ahead.

Open M-Th 9am-7pm, F-Sa 9am-5:30pm.) Offered for free at most cafes in the area.

•POLICE: On the corner of St. Aldates and Speedwell St. (St. Aldates

08458 505 505

Open 24hr.)

•HOSPITALS/MEDICAL SERVICES: John Radcliffe Hospital. (Headley Way

01852 741 166

Bus #13 or 14.)

Botley Road Station (Botley Rd., down Park End St.

01865 484 950

Ticket office open M-F 5:45am-8pm, Sa 7:30am-8pm, Su 7:15am-8pm) receives trains from: Birmingham (£34

1hr., every 30min.); Glasgow (£116

5-6hr., every hr.); London Paddington (£23.40

1hr., 2-4 per hr.); and Manchester (£62.80

3hr., 2 per hr.).

Gloucester Green Station is the city’s main bus station. The Oxford Bus Company (

01865 785 400 www.oxfordbus.co.uk) runs the Oxford Express (

Free Wi-Fi. £14, students £11

1½hr., every 15-30min.) and the X70 Airline runs from Heathrow Airport. (

Free Wi-Fi. £23.

1½hr., every 30min.) It also runs the X80 service from Gatwick Airport. (

Free Wi-Fi. £28

2½hr., every hr.) It’s best to book tickets in advance on the Oxford Bus website. The X5 bus connects Oxford with Cambridge. (

Free Wi-Fi. £12.50

3¼hr., every 30min.)

Oxford Bus Company (

01865 785 400 www.oxfordbus.co.uk) provides service throughout the city. Fares vary depending on distance traveled. (

Day Pass £4, weekly pass £14.) Weekly passes can be purchased at the Oxford Bus Company Travel Shop. (

3rd fl. of Debenham’s department store, on the corner of George St. and Magdalen St.

Open M-W 9:30am-6pm, Th 9:30am-8pm, F 9:30am-6pm, Sa 9am-6pm, Su noon-4pm.) Stagecoach (

01865 772 250 www.stagecoachbus.com) also runs buses in the city and to some surrounding villages. One-way tickets within the city usually cost £1.80. Buy a pass for a week of riding within Oxford for £16. Be careful when buying Day Passes because they don’t apply to both companies. For real-time information on buses in Oxford, use www.oxontime.com, which will also text you the schedule.

Call Radio Taxi (

01865 242 424) or ABC (

01865 770 077) for taxis. There are taxi ranks at Oxford Station, Saint Giles, Gloucester Green, and in the evening at Carfax. Taxis may be hailed in the street.

You can rent some wheels at Cyclo Analysts. (150 Cowley Rd.

01865 424 444 www.oxfordcycles.com

Includes lock. £10, 2 days £18, 3 days £24, every additional day £3.

Open M-Sa 9am-6pm, Su 10am-4pm.)

Eight centuries of history, 31 colleges, and the energy of a living university town, all in one easily accessible package. It was here that James Watson and Francis Crick (with the oft-forgotten Rosalind Franklin’s help) discovered the double helix, Sir Isaac Newton deduced gravity, Lord Byron and John Milton wrote their famous poetry, and

Winnie-the-Pooh was born. The city is dominated by its eponymous university; the school’s medieval buildings line the winding streets, and every pub, club, and cafe seems to exist to serve students. If you’re looking for the definitive Cambridge experience, try the “P and P” formula: Punting and Pimm’s—in American, boating and boozing. This is best done in the summer, when the banks of the Cam turn green and flowers bloom in the college gardens, but to get a sense of the real Cambridge, you’ll have to come during term-time, when the town fills with its 18,000 students.

With just two avenues—and helpful maps galore—Cambridge is relatively easy to navigate. The main shopping street starts at Magdalene Bridge, north of the River Cam, and appears alternatively as Bridge St., Sidney St., St. Andrew’s St., Regent St., and Hills Rd. The other principal thoroughfare begins at Saint John’s Street (just off Bridge St.), and becomes Trinity St., King’s Parade, and Trumpington St. To get into town from the Drummer St. bus station, take Emmanuel Road, which leads to St. Andrew’s St. and a bank-heavy block with loads of ATMs. To get to the center of town from the train station, follow Station Road, turn right onto Hills Rd., then follow it straight until it becomes St. Andrew’s St. in the town center. The River Cam runs along the northern and western edges of the city center.

Cambridge is quite different from Oxford—its “peer institution”—in that the colleges are more homely, with a few grandiose exceptions like King’s and Trinity. We’ve listed our favorites below, but all the city-center colleges are beautiful (the “new,” 20th-century colleges can be skipped), but if you’re only in town for a few days, you can take a punt and see six or seven of them from behind in one go. The town itself—which is a sight in its own right—has the close-to-the-ground feel of an agricultural market (quite a contrast from Oxford’s warren of gothic castles). As for the museums, most showcase what Cambridge is famous for: excellence in the sciences, from the poles of botany to engineering.

Founded by Henry VI in 1441, King’s College was the feeder school for Eton until it relaxed its admission policy in 1873 and reluctantly began to accept students from vastly inferior schools like Harrow. These days, King’s draws more students from state schools than any other Cambridge college, and it has gained a reputation as the most socially liberal of the institutions. Still, you wouldn’t guess that from the massive buildings and the rolling grounds that scream privilege. Catch a look from the other side of the river to see the college in all its glory, then come visit the Gothic King’s College Chapel, where spidering arches and stunning stained glass will wow even the most church-weary tourist. King’s alumni include John Maynard Keynes, E.M. Forster, and Salman Rushdie.

King’s Parade is the western of the city center’s 2 main avenues, the northern continuation of Trumpington St. £7.50, concessions and ages 12-18 £5, under 12 free.

Open during term time M-F 9:45am-3:30pm, Sa 9:30am-3:15pm; outside of term time M 9:45am-4:30pm, Tu-Su 9:30am-5pm. During term time, Evensong in chapel M-Sa 5:30pm; Su Eucharist 10:30am, Evensong 3:30pm.

Welcome to the largest and richest college in Cambridge. Glib descriptions attribute its founding to Henry VIII, but it was really Catherine Parr who persuaded the ornery king to create a new college instead of destroying the whole Oxbridge system monastery-style. Now, Trinity is famous for its illustrious alumni, which include literati Dryden, Byron, Tennyson, and Nabokov; atom-splitter Ernest Rutherford; philosopher Ludwig Wittgenstein; and Indian statesman Jawaharlal Nehru. The epically beautiful Great Court is the world’s largest enclosed courtyard—and also the track for young runners who attempt to beat the 12 strikes of the clock in under 43 seconds as shown in Chariots of Fire (even though it was filmed at Eton). The supposed great-great grandchild of the apple tree that inspired Issac Newton’s theory of gravity stands near the gate; in the north cloister of nearby Neville’s Court, Newton calculated the speed of sound by stamping his foot and timing the echo. In less practical exercises, Lord Byron used to bathe nude in the college’s fountain and kept a pet bear because college rules forbade cats and dogs. The Wren Library houses alumnus A.A. Milne’s handwritten copies of Winnie-the-Pooh and Newton’s personal copy of his Principia. Trinity also has punts, available for rent by the river near Garret Hostel Ln.

Turn left off Trinity St. onto Trinity Ln. £3, children £1.50. Punts £14 per hr. with £40 deposit.

Courtyard open daily 10am-4:30pm. Wren Library open M-F noon-2pm. Hall open 3-5pm. Punts available spring-summer M-F 11am-5:30pm, Sa-Su 10am-5:30pm.

This grandiose revivalist museum has the variety of the British Museum without the crushing realization that all of the exhibits came about directly via colonialism (then again, an argument can be made for structural violence in the case of the absurdly wealthy British collector who started the museum). Loosely centered around “art and antiquities,” the collection hosts a fearsome selection of Italian and French painters; Greek and Middle Eastern pottery; Egyptian sarcophagi; and illustrated medieval manuscripts. On the more modern side of things, there are some excellently preserved works by Thomas Hardy and Virginia Woolf as well.

Free. Audio tours £3, students £2. Guided tours £4.

Open Tu-Sa 10am-5pm, Su noon-5pm. Guided tours depart from the courtyard entrance Sa at 2:30pm.

The motto of St. John’s—“souvent me souvient”—is a triple pun, and none of them have to do with souvenirs. One meaning is “Often I remember,” which is appropriate given that the college celebrated its quincentennial in 2011. William Wilberforce, William Wordsworth, Sir Cecil Beaton, and Douglas Adams are only a few of the students that have studied here through its history. A second meaning of the slogan is “Think of me often”—not difficult when considering the gorgeous chapel, Bridge of Sighs, or the 93ft.-long Fellows’ Room where some of the D-Day planning happened. St. John’s is also associated with its choir, which has been singing Evensong for over 300 years. The final pun is “I often pass beneath it,” which could possibly be interpreted now as snooty Trinity College rivals passing by while humming “We’d Rather Be at Oxford than St. John’s” (sung to the tune of “She’ll Be Coming ‘Round the Mountain”).

Head north on Sidney St., which becomes Bridge St. Take a left onto St. John’s St. £5, ages 12-17 £3.50, under 12 free.

Open daily Mar-Oct 10am-5:30pm; Nov-Feb 10am-3:30pm.

Magdalene College (pronounced MAUD-lin) was not only purposely built on the other side of the river in order to protect its Benedictine monks from the town’s licentious crowd, but it was also the last Oxbridge college to admit women in 1988 (students protested vigorously by wearing black armbands). This is all a bit strange given the college’s namesake, Mary Magdalene, and the fact that they host the most lavish May Ball every year (it’s also the only college that insists on a white tie dress code). Academically, it’s famous for the Pepys Library, which holds some of the diaries of C.S. Lewis, who, though an Oxford man, occasionally lived in Magdalene. The long riverfront area behind the main courtyards is technically closed to visitors, but some travelers report that if you look like a student—and act like you know what you’re doing—it’s possible to stroll unbothered along the willow-lined path.

Walk south down Huntington Rd. as it changes into Castle St., then into Magdalene St. Free.

Open daily until 6pm. Library open daily Apr 20-Aug 31 11:30am-12:30pm and 2:30-3:30pm; Oct 6-Dec 5 2:30-3:30pm; Jan 12-Mar 13 2:30-3:30pm.

The trope of “Oxford for humanities, Cambridge for sciences” goes a long way to explain the focus of this museum. Robert Whipple donated a collection of 1000 scientific devices to the university, and many of these are on display here. Newer additions include the Gömböc (a mathematically precise object that rolls to the same resting position no matter where you place it) and Fred, a 19th-century anatomical model whose parts have been mercilessly scattered across the museum. Several intriguing planetariums, some microscopes and telescopes, and a wealth of pocket calculators round out the quirkily fascinating collection.

Turn left off St. Andrew’s St. onto Downing St. Follow it until it becomes Pembroke and turn right onto Free School Ln. Free.

Open M-F 12:30-4:30pm.

get a room!

Budget lodging options in Cambridge are notoriously bad, as people who come to visit or live here either fall into the categories of “student with pre-arranged dorm room” or “parent with some dough to burn.” There are few affordable rooms near the town center, and overpriced, occasionally sketchy bed and breakfasts fill the area to the north and south of town. In particular, B&Bs cluster on Arbury Road and Chesterton Road to the north; several can be found close to the station on Tenison Road. Bus #1 goes between Tenison Rd. and the town center, while bus #2 serves Chesterton Rd. When the university is not in session, many of the colleges offer their rooms (generally called “digs”) at competitive prices (usually £30-70 for a single); check www.cambridgerooms.co.uk for more information. For more recommendations, visit www.letsgo.com.

LYNWOOD HOUSE

B&B $$$$

217 Chesterton Rd.

01223 500 776

www.lynwood-house.co.uk

This recently renovated B&B traded in predictable floral motifs that commonly grace Victorian hotels for a bolder, modern theme. The rooms are nice, large, and well designed, with rich, tasteful color combinations and great furnishings. Though Lynwood House is a bit to the north of the city center, there’s a convenient cluster of pubs and stores nearby.

From the town center, take either Victoria Ave. or Bridge St., then turn right onto Chesterton Rd. Free Wi-Fi and ethernet. Breakfast included. Ensuite bathrooms. Often 2-night min. stay. Check website for details. Singles £65-85; doubles £85-120.

“Tempered to the Oaten Flute / Rough Satyrs danced and fauns with cloven heel” would be an epic testimonial on the “Is Christ’s College Right For You?” admissions page. And indeed, that was how John Milton—called by his friends “The Lady of Christ’s”—described the college in Lycidas. A portrait and bust in the Great Hall pay homage to Milton and another of Christ’s famous alums: Charles Darwin, who didn’t lionize the college nearly as much. Sacha Baron Cohen also graduated from Christ’s, so we all look forward to the day when a picture of Borat will adorn the wall.

Continue north on Hills Rd. until it turns into Regent St., then into St. Andrew’s St. Free.

Open daily 9:30am-noon.

Yes, it’s hard to keep all of the colleges straight when the names are only variations on a New Testament theme. A good memory aide is to think of Jesus being tempted to stay hours in this college’s 25 acres of lovely gardens and courts. Keep an eye out for some strange art installations that include the annual Sculpture in the Close (when we visited, it was 10 mannequins re-enacting a crime scene). Attracting an eclectic set, the college’s alumni include Thomas Cranmer, Samuel Taylor Coleridge, and Nick Hornby.

Go north on Sidney St. and turn right onto Jesus Ln. Free.

Open daily 8am-dusk.

For a “college town,” Cambridge has more upscale dining options than off-licenses and supermarkets. However, there are a number of cheap cafes that can set you up with a meal for less than £5. The summer months see students camping out on one of the “Pieces” with wine and sandwiches or strolling the streets with wine and ice cream cones.

Even though Cambridge students might roll their eyes at this pub’s high tourist profile, it remains genuine enough to still draw crowds of locals. Why the fame? It’s a veritable monument to life and death. On February 28, 1953, Francis Crick and James Watson burst into the Eagle to announce their discovery of the “secret to life”—the double helix. And toward the back, look for the messages and squad numbers that RAF men scorched into the ceiling on the evenings before piloting missions during World War II. For your hopefully less dramatic purposes, the bar adds to its storied charm with affordable alcohol and classics of the pub food genre—sausage and mash, a slab of a burger and chips, or a steaming steak and ale pie.

Heading south on King’s Parade, turn left onto Bene’t St. Entrees £8-14. Pints around £3.50. Credit card min. £5.

Open M-Sa 10am-11pm, Su 11am-10:30pm.

There’s something beautiful about a cafe that provides all of the white, blinding modern vibe of a gallery while serving you gourmet food as well. The menu items here are a bit fancier than your average ham and cheese toast (think more continental, like bruschetta and olives), but you can nab some heartier breakfast staples for cheap prices if you’re not satisfied with the usual hostel corn flakes and toast.

This lively pub is known affectionately as “The Staypole” thanks to it being one of the few bars in Cambridge with a late-night license. It takes advantage of its status as a “free house” (meaning that it’s independent from any brewery and can serve whatever beers it wants) by stocking a selection of a dozen rotating beers on draft and many more in bottles. It’s a tremendously popular spot, where students drink pints and pitchers of cocktails late into the night.

When walking toward the river on Sidney St., turn right onto Portugal Pl. Pints from £3.50; pitchers £12-14.

Open M-Th 11:30am-midnight, F-Sa 11:30am-1am, Su noon-11:30pm.

The pub may look very English, but its specialty is Belgian beer. Over 50 brews are represented here, and as you step inside, you’ll be offered an incredibly helpful menu. The two rooms hold dusty bottles and tables filled with locals, while pictures of drinking customers cover the walls. Outside, the smoking crowd spills out as the only acknowledgment there’s a pub in the quiet area. Occasionally, the space hosts live music.

Walking south on Parker St., make a left onto Clarendon St. The pub is on the corner with Orchard St. Beer from £3.50. Cash only.

Open daily 11am-11pm.

The curtained booths and leather upholstery of this cocktail bar recall the days when Churchill and de Gaulle would meet in this underground lounge. Even if state-making isn’t on the evening’s agenda, you’ll feel sufficiently sophisticated as you sip on one of the dozens of classic and unclassic cocktails twirled and poured behind the glamorous bar. When the ol’ peripheral vision inevitably starts to go, make a beeline to the club room, which offers a darker, louder section with quickly changing tracks and dazzling light shows.

With the ADC Theater on your right, head to the end of Park St. Turn right onto Jesus Ln. It’s on the right. 2-for-1 cocktails M-W. Cocktails £6.80-9.20.

Open M-Sa 3pm-12:30am, Su 3-10:30pm.

“It was grown-up and polished, yet at the same time bashful and friendly; it was sophisticated and intelligent but never pretentious or pleased with itself; it had authority, finish, and quality without any hint of self-regard, vanity, or slickness,” wrote Stephen Fry of the first Cambridge Footlights show he saw. The “Arts Dramatic Club” is the student-run theater that hosts the Footlights, which launched the comedic careers of Hugh Laurie, Fry, and half of Monty Python. Many other famous actors who attended Cambridge—including Ian McKellen, Emma Thompson, and Rachel Weisz—performed here as well. During term-time, there are usually two performances per day, while out of term there are still shows most days. There are occasional dance shows in addition to the usual theater and comedy.

Head away from town center and take a left off Jesus Ln. to get to Park St. Tickets £5-10, concessions sometimes available.

Box office open Tu 12:30-7pm, W-Th 3-7pm, F 12:30-7pm, Sa 3-7pm.

For North Americans, punting is solely related to kicking a football across half a stadium. For Cantabrigians (excluding the Boston variety), it is glamorously sticking a pole in mud and vaulting your way along the river Cam. Unless you’re an old hand or an idiot, it’s best to avoid the self-hire option and get a tour guide to regale you with over-the-top accounts of alumni and their youthful exploits. Scudamore’s is the gold standard, with a small kiosk on the river and a fleet of attractive men roaming around the banks aggressively advertising the punting experience.

Underneath Magdalene Bridge. Take a right off Bridge St. Another location is at the end of Mill St. Self-hire £22 per hr., students £16; plus £90 deposit taken in the form of an imprint of your credit or debit card. Guided tours £16, concessions £14.50, under 12 £8. Discounts if you buy tickets online. Private and specialty tours can be pre-booked.

Open daily 9am-dusk.

Probably the largest music venue in Cambridge, the Corn Exchange has hosted most of the big-name musical acts that come through Cambridge, from the Beatles and Pink Floyd to The Smiths and Oasis. It also presents musicals, dance performances, and opera. The 19th-century building was established as a space for merchants to trade grain; nowadays, it serves as an exam room for the university when it’s not being used for concerts (sadly, they don’t play “School’s Out” when you finish).

Heading south on King’s Parade, turn left onto Bene’t St. and go straight until it becomes Wheeler St. Prices vary. Occasional student discounts.

Open M-Sa 10am-6pm.

•STUDENT TRAVEL OFFICES: STA Travel (38 Sidney St.

0871 702 9809 www.statravel.co.uk

Open M-Th 10am-7pm, F-Sa 10am-6pm, Su 11am-5pm.)

•TOURS: Several walking tours leave from the Tourist Information Centre. The Guided Tour features King’s College and Queens’ College. (

£17.50, concessions £15.50, children £8.

Tours leave daily at 1 and 2pm.)

•INTERNET: Jaffa Net Cafe. (22 Mill Rd.

01223 308 380

£1 per hr.

Open daily noon-midnight.)

•POST OFFICES: Bureau de Change. (9-11 St. Andrew’s St.

Open M 9am-5:30pm, Tu 9:30am-5:30pm, W-Sa 9am-5:30pm.)

•HOSPITALS/MEDICAL SERVICES: Addenbrookes Hospital. (Hills Rd., by the intersection of Hills Rd. and Long Rd.

01223 245 151)

The only significant starting point for trains to Cambridge is London. Trains arrive at Station Road. (

20min. walk southeast from the town center.

Ticket office open M-Sa 5:10am-11pm, Su 7am-10:55pm.) You can catch trains at London King’s Cross (£22.

50min., 2 per hr.) and London Liverpool St. (£15.30.

1¼hr., 2 per hr.)

The bus station, mostly for short-distance buses, is on Drummer Street. (

Ticket office open M-Sa 9am-5:30pm.) Airport shuttles and buses to more distant destinations run from Parkside. Buses arrive from: London Victoria (

Transfer at Stansted. £12.70.

3hr., every hr.); Gatwick (£34.

4hr., every 2hr.); Heathrow (£28.60.

3hr., every hr.); Stansted (£10.50.

50min., every 2hr.); Oxford. (

Take the X5 bus. £12.50.

3¼hr., every 30min.)

CitiBus runs from stops throughout town, including some on Saint Andrew’s Street, Emmanuel Street, and at the train station. The most useful routes are C1 (from the station) and C2 (goes out along Chesterton Rd.). Single rides cost £2.20. Dayrider Tickets (unlimited travel for 1 day; £3.90) can be purchased on the bus; for longer stays, you can buy a Megarider ticket (unlimited travel for weeks; £13 per week).

As the Stonehenge audio tour will explain, Stonehenge is not only an enigma, but a mystery (jury’s out on whether either one is wrapped in the other). But the question remains: what is it all for? Is it a calendar? A status symbol? A sacrificial altar? Proof of extra-terrestrials? We’re sad to inform you that merely visiting will not leave you with one definitive answer. However, whatever its purpose or maker, the stone circle really does inspire a sense of wonder—and that’s enough of a reason for 21st-century tourists to visit.

A trip to Stonehenge paired with a stop in Salisbury—the nearest major city—is a full-day event that basically repeats the message of Ken Follett’s The Pillars of the Earth: building stuff is hard. Stonehenge itself is a tricky customer. While only 30 years ago, the place was an out-of-the-way tourist spot that only very thorough travelers would attempt to visit, there are now bus tours that drop thousands of visitors next to the highway that Stonehenge overlooks. For casual appreciation of pagan architecture, an hour is all you need; the audio tour will walk you through the materials, construction, layout, and purpose of the pi-shaped masonry. Surprisingly, even though you’ll share your magical experience with hundreds of people, the design of the walkway is expertly shaped so that you can get as many mystical selfies as your heart deigns without someone in a red windbreaker wandering into the shot. If you have more time and money saved up, traveling here via Salisbury instead of via the A303 is a nice way to get a more rounded survey of British history (and pre-history).

By train: take the National Rail from Waterloo to Salisbury (around £40). Once in Salisbury, the Stonehenge Bus leaves from the train station for the site every 30min. from about 9:30am-6pm in summer and 10am-2pm in winter (£12). By bus: tours leave the city (£30 with price of admission). Adult £8, concessions £7.20. By barge, with 50-ton rocks: leave that to the pagans.

Open daily Jan-Mar 15 9:30am-4pm; March 15-May 9:30am-6pm; Jun-Aug 9am-7pm; Sept-Oct 15 9:30am-6pm; Oct 15-Dec 9:30am-4pm.

Edinburgh is many things—a well-preserved medieval city, a college town, a cultural center—but it doesn’t feel defined by any of those narrow labels. It feels more like something out of a fairy tale—some mystical place where all the homes are town-houses, all the streets are cobblestoned, and vast cliffs and forests jut into the city center. Indeed, to go for a walk in Edinburgh—whether it’s through the stunning valleys of Princes Street Park or the awe-inspiring peaks of Calton Hill—is to be astonished. The locals are blasé but prideful. “Everything here is old and magnificent,” one says. “People will say ‘oh, that’s only 600 years old.’”

Your sense of amazement will likely continue whether you’re quaffing a pint in an eccentric pub or visiting one of the city’s many museums. There’s a reason this is the UK’s most popular tourist destination after London.

Perhaps because it’s not affiliated with a specific brand, the Scotch Whisky Experience doesn’t beat you over the head the same way the Guinness Brewery and the Old Jameson Distillery do (both of those Dublin attractions, while certainly worth visiting, are not intended for those who want a fair and balanced appraisal of Guinness and/or Jameson). Make no mistake—these guys love everything about whisky—its history, its taste, and, most visibly, its color. The in-house restaurant is called “Amber,” the staffers all wear amber ties, and there’s even a light yellow glow in some rooms. But they also recognize that some people may not know very much about whisky, and that others might not even like it all that much. For that reason, the tour is a primarily educational experience, albeit one that will appeal to the novice and to the seasoned drinker who’s looking to find out more.

You start by getting strapped into a barrel and undergoing a process designed to teach replicate the process of making whisky—it’s kind of like a Disney ride combined with an unnatural fascination with alcohol. And while parts of this ride are cheesy, other segments are just plain nuts. Get excited for the yeast room.

The meat of the tour, however, is the whisky tasting. Unless you spring for a pricier ticket (the costliest option includes a three-course meal), you’ll only be able to sample one of the four major types of Scotch whisky. This can be a fear-inducing choice, especially since the wrong whisky might well be nausea-inducing. Thankfully, the guides will provide you with a scratch and sniff card, allowing you some insight into the four major flavors. To top it all off, they’ve got the world’s largest collection of Scotch whisky upstairs, seemingly rivaled only by the gift shop’s selection.

Silver tour £13.50, £10.50 for students and seniors, £6.75 for children. Golden tour £23.50, £20 for students and seniors. Platinum tour £27.

Open daily 10am-6pm.

The Scottish National Galleries are beautiful. The buildings themselves are models of neoclassicism, all situated on pristine grounds, be it Princes Street Park or an old estate. And the art inside’s pretty good too.

The flagship museum is the National Gallery of Scotland, located in the city center, close to Edinburgh Castle, the Scott Monument, and other frequent tourist destinations. Here, you’ll see masterpieces by Rubens, Memling, Titian, and some Scottish artists who have been inexplicably confined to the basement. How’s that for national pride?

Though the building is on the smaller side, don’t be fooled when you think you’ve gone through the whole thing in an hour—certain galleries can only be reached through less-than-central passages. Although there’s free wifi in the building, Google Maps can’t help you find your way to the early Netherlandish painting room—you’ll have to pick up one of the free maps to navigate the space.

If one of the works appeals to you (you’ll probably find at least one that really catches your eye), the downstairs gift shop has a truly massive selection of postcards and prints to choose from. It’s a cheap, easy-to-transport souvenir (if you get the postcard—prints can get a fair bit pricier).

No one wants to visit a hospital while they’re on vacation, but there’s nothing wrong with checking out a museum of medical history and curiosities. That’s just what you’ll get at Edinburgh’s Surgeon’s Hall, which houses the Royal College of Surgeons of Edinburgh as well as a museum that dates back to 1699.

The collections range from the grisly (check out the Greig Collection of deformed skeletons) to the historic (they’ve got an original Squire inhaler, which was used to knock patients out with ether in the early days of anesthesia). You’ll see plenty of organs and the like in jars (aortas, lymph vessels, and cranial nerves all pop up). Again, the emphasis is on the unusual—one heart has a massive hole caused by a bullet that went straight through it. Cue “You Give Love a Bad Name” by Bon Jovi. The strangest exhibit might well be the Dental History Collection, which traces dentistry back to ancient times. If you think getting your wisdom teeth out stinks, wait ’til you see what they did for toothaches in the Middle Ages.

If all this medical history inspires you, the museum has an interactive exhibit where you get to take on the task of keyhole surgery. After trying your hand at that, marvelous at the bizarre case of Robert Penma, who grew a 72 ounce tumor in his mouth that had to be removed without anesthetic. Really puts your appendix operation into perspective.

You can’t miss Edinburgh Castle. Located at the end of the Royal Mile, this immensely popular tourist attraction (1.2 million visitors in 2011) is visible from most points in Edinburgh’s City Centre, especially from Old Town or Princes Street. You may do a double take when you first catch sight of the castle, which looks like some rural fortress dropped into the heart of cosmopolitan Edinburgh.

And you might keep doing double takes once you get inside. This is where the Crown Jewels of Scotland are kept, and as you might expect of crown jewels, they’re pretty darned opulent. If you like your royal artifacts to be considerably less photogenic, check out the Stone of Destiny, a giant, gray stone used during coronations of Scottish kings. Though it kicked around England for 700 years, it was finally returned to Scotland in 1996.

The Castle’s also home to the National War Museum, and for good reason—this site has arguably more importance as a military fortress than as a residential castle. Being at the top of a steep hill helps a lot. Though the National War Museum places understandable emphasis on history, it’s also startlingly modern at times—you’ll see things like chemical warfare suits right alongside 18th century uniforms. The army had a lot more style back then.

Edinburgh, for all its charms, can get slightly dreary sometimes. If the gray buildings, gray streets, and gray weather gets you down (an unholy trinity if there ever was one), a spicy meal at Tanjore will get you right back on track. This South Indian restaurant, located a few blocks past the University of Edinburgh, features some of the liveliest cuisine in the city. Go nuts with one of their famous curries, all helpfully labelled with a spice level. Be daring.

get a room!

CALEDONIAN BACKPACKERS

HOSTEL $

3 Queensferry St.

131 226 2939

www.caledonianbackpackers.com

Caledonian Backpackers is a bit removed from Edinburgh’s Old Town, where it can seem like there’s a hostel on every corner. But that doesn’t mean you’re far from where the action is. Princes Street Gardens, Stock-bridge, and the old town itself are all within walking distance. And if the thought of not being surrounded with fellow travelers terrifies you, the size of Caledonian Backpackers will put your fears to rest easily.

Despite its close proximity to many of Edinburgh’s famous sites, you may be tempted to just stay at the hostel during your stay. Breakfast is available until noon, which basically eliminates the need for lunch. There’s a bar on the premises, and the amount of additional social space is overwhelming. Be sure to check out the Cucumber Room, which might be more accurately titled “The Big, Shoes-Optional Room with a Lot of Couches and a Guitar,” as well as the Beanbag Cinema.

Bathrooms are not ensuite for some of the larger rooms, but there are enough showers dispensed throughout the hostel so that you won’t be left waiting. Towels, shampoo, and other toiletries can be purchased or rented.

The space itself is large, eccentric, and resolutely colorful—a lot of vintage molding and other architectural details have been left in, and colorful murals of different rock stars pepper the walls. And while the large size of your hostel means getting to your room might be something

Dorms from £13. Reception open 24hr.

BUDGET BACKPACKERS

HOSTEL $

37-39 Cowgate

131 226 6351

www.budgetbackpackers.com

Usually, great location comes with an obscene price tag. Think of the astronomical costs people pay for beachfront property. But that tried-and-true formula is turned on its head by Budget Backpackers, a hostel minutes away from Edinburgh Castle, the University of Edinburgh, and the Scotch Whisky Experience. Here, you can easily book a bed for £9 a night (provided it’s not during the Edinburgh Festival Fringe, where prices skyrocket around the city). “We beat the pants off everyone else for value,” the hostel proudly proclaims.

While you may have a tad more company than you’re accustomed to (the biggest dorm holds a staggering 30 people), the rooms are big enough for you to keep your personal space intact. And they’re clean enough for you to forget the number of people who circulate through here on a weekly basis. Sorry for bringing that up.

Though the hopping area will likely tire you out, Budget Backpackers has a number of attractions in the hostel itself. Spend some time in the chill out room, which features views of Edinburgh Castle and a large plasma screen TV. Breakfast isn’t included, but the large kitchens will allow you to cook up whatever you like. And the food provided by the café is worth shelling out a few pounds for.

Dorms from £9 a night. Reception open 24hr.

Given the weird name, the small menu, and the paintings of Bill Murray that fill up the wall, you could easily be forgiven for thinking that the Roamin’ Nose is a joint primarily for hipsters, and that the food plays a secondary role to the cooler-than-thou atmosphere. Well, not only is the Roamin’ Nose refreshingly devoid of bearded scenesters who will criticize your style and music taste, the hearty food is some of the best you’ll find in Edinburgh. With a focus on pasta and other Italian dishes, the small menu is still chock-full of delicious items like spaghetti and clams. The specials list is nearly as long as the menu—go for the venison burger if it’s available.

While you’ll have to trust the staff when it comes to the menu—don’t worry, it pays off—you’ll have your pick of drinks. The selection of wines and beers is remarkably exhaustive, and they’ve got quite a few house cocktails as well. These are particularly worth taking note of, as they’re seriously well-priced for Edinburgh. You can expect to pay as much as £10 for the drinks at hot bars around town. But you don’t need to order a drink for the Roamin’ Nose to be worth it (even if it’s a seriously well-priced drink). Just sink your teeth into one of their delicious meals—after taking a whiff, of course.

Starters £3-4, Mains £10-14.

Open M 9:30am-5pm, Tu-F 9:30am-10pm, Sa 10am-10pm, Su 10am-5pm.

There’s absolutely no ambiguity about what OINK is selling. If the name didn’t tip you off, the giant roasted hog in the window sure will. This tiny restaurant sure knows how to make a pulled pork sandwich. And with all prices under £5 (even for the largest roll), the price is right.

Even if you’re not a vegetarian, OINK might be slightly off-putting. The smallest sandwich, after all, is named “piglet.” Winnie the Pooh fans, visit at your peril. And the fact that you can get your sandwich with haggis may not be appealing to most. As a side note, this is a great opportunity to try the infamous haggis without committing to a full plate of the stuff.

But if you do go in and get a nice and toasty hog roll, your taste buds will be thanking you all the way home. The impressive speed of the servers belies the exceptional care put into these flavorful sandwiches. Try it with some apple relish to add sweetness.

There are a number of hostels up and down Cowgate, and consequently there are a lot of Cowgate Bars that cater to the international party going crowd. BrewDog Edinburgh is not one of those bars. The first thing you see is a giant sign that reads “NO LIVE SPORT, NO FOOTBALL, NO SHOTS, NO STELLA.” Under that, in smaller font: “but we do have board games!”

That they do. If you want a good pub quiz but can’t find one, why not come here and play a round of Trivial Pursuit? They’ve got tons of games, along with a remarkable selection of beers on draught and in bottles. With guest beers like Mikkeler Black (16.8% ABV), who needs shots? And with numerous booths and large tables, you’ll actually be able to sit down and play some of these board games. If for some reason you’re carrying around old boxes of Monopoly or Candyland, bring them here—you’ll get a pint for every board game you turn in. Relatedly, there are more than a few thrift stores in the area, some of which stock board games. Use that as you will.

But despite the lack of shots and the older crowd that populates BrewDog during the day, the atmosphere gets admirably rowdy at night. Craft beer gets the crowd just as wild as normal brews do—and since their motto is Beer for Punks, they’re not opposed to thinks getting a little loud.

Pints are generally from £3-5, but specialty brews can cost as much as £8. The wide selection of bottles is also highly variable in terms of price. Nearby: Budget Backpackers, OINK.

M-Sa noon-1am, Su 12:30-1am.

Holyrood 9a looks like a fairly traditional pub; wood paneled walls, amber-tinged lighting, old beer signs on the walls, all that jazz. Then you see the area behind the bar. This gleaming array of metal, glass, and mirrors looks like a space-ship has crash-landed in a typical Edinburgh pub, bringing with it a host of obscure spirits and over 20 varieties of beer.

From another planet or not, the variety of beers available at Holyrood 9a will certainly overwhelm you. They’ve even been known to commission special brews for special events; for their fifth birthday party, they served “Hollyrood” ale.

Moreover, the large space and big tables mean this is a social space, and not just a place for beer geeks to bug out over rare brews. It also means that if all your friends are beer geeks, you should grab a table as soon as you get to Edinburgh.

The food menu is no slouch either—the burgers are known as being some of the best of Edinburgh. Whether you stop by for an early afternoon drink or just want a few calories in your system before last call, ask to see the menu. You’ll be pleasantly surprised.

Given the quality of the food and liquor, it’s no surprise that Holyrood 9a gets pretty busy in the evening. You’ll need to come early to snag a table, but if you get there during a busier hour, the attentive staff will make sure you’re not without a drink for long. Best of all, finding the place couldn’t be easier—the name is the address.

Edinburgh’s drink of choice will always be scotch, but 52 Canoes is proof that the city can branch out in a big way. This tiki bar boasts many varieties of rum, available to sample by themselves or in one of the many fruity cocktails on the menu (52 in total). Edinburgh’s a long way from Polynesia, but the tropical decor and exotic soundtrack make this the perfect place to grab a Mai Tai or a Zombie (both of which are set aflame before being served to you) And if the weather outside’s got you down, check out one of their warmers—cocktails made with hot tea, coffee, or other substances guaranteed to raise your body temperature. But the menu isn’t limited to Polynesian drinks—you can also get Caribbean classics like the piña colada or daiquiri. Every Thursday from 6pm onwards, they host a reggae night. If you’re enjoying Edinburgh but can’t help but be dismayed by the lack of Bob Marley, this is the place to go.

Perhaps the most surprising thing about 52 Canoes, however, is the quality and variety of the food. You’ll be able to order anything from beef skewers to Belgian waffles. Whatever you drunkenly crave will probably be available on the menu in some capacity, and the staff will be happy to cook it up for you. At heart, this outrageous tiki bar is just a friendly neighborhood pub, albeit one with leis and tiny umbrellas everywhere.

Cocktails £7-9, warmers £4-6. Nearby: Caledonian Backpackers, The Roamin’ Nose.

Open M-F 11am-1am, Sa-Su 9am-1am.

•CASH: There are ATMs up and down Princes Street, including a number of Royal Bank of Scotland ATMs located near the end of Princes Street and the beginning of Queensferry Road. There is also a Royal Bank of Scotland building with several ATMs.

•INTERNET CAFÉ: Here! Internet (23 Leven Street. M-F 10am-7:30, Sa 10-6, Su 10-5.) Filament Coffee (5 India Buildings, Victoria Street. Open daily 8am-7pm.)

•POST OFFICE: The post office at 40 Frederick Street has a 24 hour ATM. The post office is open M 9-5:30pm, T 9:30-5:30, W-F 9-5:30, and Sa 9-12:30. The post office on 33 Forrest Road offers currency exchange. Open M-F 8:30-6, Sa 9-5:30.

•PHARMACY: Boots Pharmacy (40-44 North Bridge, Edinburgh. M-F 8-7pm, Sa 8:3-6:30pm, Su 10-6pm.)

Edinburgh has a bus and tram system. Tram tickets cost £1.50 for city zone travel—the main line runs along Princes Street and terminates at Haymarket. The bus system, Lothian Buses, has several routes; the 24 is easiest for getting from the North Town to the Old Town (and thus avoiding the numerous hills in between).

York is an unabashedly medieval city; expect tiny streets, crumbling buildings, and those famous city walls. But it’s by no means a museum piece. It’s go some of the best bars in the UK, a hopping restaurant scene, and one of the largest cathedrals in Europe. Even though it’s no longer England’s second city, that’s no reason to believe it’s been consigned to history’s dustbin. Get in that York state of mind—you’ll be pleasantly surprised.

Sure, the York Castle Museum is a hodgepodge—exhibits range from overviews of ’60s fashion to restored prison cells from the 19th century—but that doesn’t diminish the fun. This museum is all about the weirder side of history, whether that means showcasing a Victorian arcade machine depicting a public execution or showing old clips from Dr. Who.

The heart of the museum lies in its meticulous reconstructions of bygone environments. Here, you can gawk at 16th century dining rooms, ’60s bars, and Victorian candy shops. In some, you can even walk around and explore the scene. It makes for some great tourist photography. If you really want to freak your parents out, send them a picture of you in one of the jail cells. Be sure to look extra forlorn—there were more than a few executions here in the 19th century. When it comes to depressing scenes, however, it’s hard to beat the 1980s kitchen. Who knew corn flakes could look so tragic?

In addition to these regular displays, the museum has begun mounting large temporary exhibits about historic events like World War I and its effect on England. If one of these larger events is on display while you’re in town, it’s worth shelling out a few extra pounds for; the same level of detail and seriousness in the regular exhibits is carried over to these ones. As a warning, any exhibit about World War I won’t be half as lighthearted as the sixties room.

Adult £9.50, students/seniors £8.50, children under 16 free.

Open M-Su 9:30am-5pm.

York’s Roman history has been established for some time, but it wasn’t until the mid-1970s that the Viking past really came to light. From ’76 to ’81, archaeologists dug up the remains of Jorvik, a Viking settlement that existed over a thousand years ago. The museum has been built where these ruins were found, so you can view the ruins in situ. To add to the fun, it’s supposedly haunted. The discovery of the ruins prompted sightings of old Viking ghosts in the area. Come back after hours and you might catch a glimpse of some real Viking warriors.

While the jury’s still out on whether or not there’s truth to this paranormal activity, the museum does feature some holographic Viking “ghosts” that clue you in to what daily life was like in their city. You’ll also be able to take a ride through a reconstructed settlement, which features such heartwarming scenes as an arguing couple, a pair of dogs fighting, and a mischievous child.

Equally impressive is the gift shop, where you can purchase expensive replicas of Viking swords and axes. Good luck getting those babies through airport security. Also worth checking out: Jorvik Blonde Ale, a brand of beer made by Rudgate Brewery and named after the settlement. As far as we know, this is a rarity in the museum worlds—there’s no Yorkshire Castle Stout yet.

£9.95, students/seniors £7.95, children £6.95.

Open daily. Apr-Nov 10am-5pm, Nov-Mar 10am-4pm.