Let’s Go Europe 2015

York Minster’s central tower is the highest point in York, but you have to walk up 275 steps to get there. If you’re in the mood for a less taxing experience, mosey on over to the Wheel of York, where you can ascend to the height of 175 feet while enjoying champagne. Or at least you could, until it closed and was dismantled in September 2013—it’s currently slated to reopen sometime in 2014. If you can’t bear the thought of experiencing great heights without champagne, we can guarantee that the staff of York Minster won’t take kindly to you popping bottles on the roof.

Walking around York, you get a pretty good idea of what the average medieval commute would have been like. But to get a better sense of the York state of mind during the Middle Ages, you’d best head on over to Barley Hall, a restored medieval townhouse just a few blocks from York Minster. The home formerly belonged to William Snaswell, who was the mayor of York while Richard III was King of England.

Though it’s affiliated with Jorvik Viking Centre (grab the JORVIK Group Medieval Pass and you’ll get a nice discount on both institutions), Barley Hall is a more contained and ultimately more immersive experience. Whether or not that’s a good thing entirely depends on how much you like the Middle Ages. If you’re not sure what your opinion is, you’ll be inundated with information—it’ll either make you a lifelong obsessive or wish you’d never even heard of William Snaswell and company. The museum has also hosted exhibits about the Black Death and other diseases of the Middle Ages. At the very least, these will make you clean your hands vigorously when you’re done with the tour—who knows how many snot-nosed kids touched that doorknob?

£5.50, seniors/students £4, children £3.

Open daily Apr-Nov 10am-5pm, Nov-Mar 10am-4pm.

Outside of 1331, there’s a sign that lists its various roles. “Restaurant.” Fine. “Bar.” Yawn. “Venue.” Slightly intriguing, but places that serve food and host live bands are a dime a dozen. “Cinema.” Now we’re talking. In fact, 1331 is downplaying their many faces here; in addition to a top floor restaurant and a basement movie theater (seats 24), they’ve got two bars, two outdoor seating areas (including their evocatively named “Secret Garden”), and a private room done up in Art Deco style that’s available for private parties.

1331, in short, is the most versatile establishment in York. Part of its success stems from how it doesn’t take any of its roles overly seriously. The restaurant offers a variety of specials and deals. The movie house doesn’t confine itself to art house fare, but instead shows sports broadcasts and other crowd-pleasers. The bar has a number of local beers, but also highlights quirkier brews like the Belgian Kwåk (look out for the bizarrely shaped glass). And then there are those two for one cocktail specials on Saturday.

That’s not to say, of course, that the food or drink is an afterthought. The menu features a carefully curated selection of British classics—you’ll see revved-up editions of bangers and mash, ploughman’s lunch, and other such delicacies.

2 courses for £9.95 from 11am-7pm. Starters £4-5, mains £10-14. Nearby: Barley Hall.

Open daily 8am-2am.

Given York’s small size, you might expect your visit to be a fairly sleepy affair. But there’s a lot to do in York—so much that it’s easy to get overwhelmed, particularly if you’ve only planned to stop for a few days. If you’re desperately trying to find the time to climb to the top of York Minster and complete a cycle on the Wheel of York, don’t worry about finding a meal—Shambles Kitchen will provide a quick and tasty delight in the heart of York.

This notorious pub is named after delirium tremens, a common symptom of alcohol withdrawal. With the stuff they’ve got available, the name makes a lot of sense. This place is all about the beer—if you don’t like the tons of cask ales or bottles they’ve got upstairs, you can pick up any of the bottles they have downstairs in their massive off-licence. If a bottle doesn’t quite do it for you, you can get a yard of ale (the glass sis a yard long, if that wasn’t clear) for £9. And if spirits are more your thing, why not try one of the strongest beers in the world? They’ve got four of them, ranging from BrewDog’s Tactical Nuclear Penguin (32%) to the infamous Mystery of Beer, which clocks in at a whopping 70%. And no, you can’t get a yard of that.

With all that craziness behind the counter, you might not register just how crazy the actual space is. This is a fairly well-preserved medieval building, and the general interior doesn’t look to have changed since 1500 or so (it is up to fire code, however). The decor is strictly limited to dead animals, whether it’s a taxidermied head, a bear skin, or a box full of spiders, butterflies, and beetles. PETA won’t be holding mixers here anytime soon.

Pints from £3-5. Yard of ale for £9. Shots of exceptionally strong beer from £4-8. Nearby: Barley Hall, 1313.

M-Sa 10am-midnight, Su 11am-midnight.

You’ll likely arrive at York via train or bus, which means that the Maltings will likely be the first bar you see as you walk to town. That impression will likely put you off—the bar’s exterior is all black, it’s near a busy road, and it’s immediately surrounded by a large parking lot. Ignore all that—once you step inside the Maltings, you’ll be treated to a grown-up pub, one with all the character, warmth, and hardwood floors you could possibly want. And if you dig that all black feel, just step outside onto the terrace, which features nondescript black walls and tables composed of stones bound in metal wire. It seems more suited to a modern art show than a neighborhood bar, but who’s complaining when you get some fresh air?

But the more traditional interior isn’t a slouch of a space by any means. Enjoy live music in the bar area, or saunter over to the space near the kitchen (food is served from 12-2 on weekdays and from 12-4 during the weekends) and stretch out in a comfy chair.

The chief attraction, of course, is the generous selection of cask ales. You’ll find some of Yorkshire’s finest brews here, making this bar a near-perfect introduction to the region’s beer scene. Now you’ll understand why it’s the first bar you see.

Pints from £3-5. Nearby: Yorkshire Castle Museum, The Wheel of York/ M-Sa 11am-11pm, Su noon-10:30pm.

ESSENTIALS

Practicalities

• CASH: There are a number of ATMs on Piccadilly, particularly on the end where it meets with Parliament Street. There are several ATMs up and down Parliament Street as well. York Bureau de Change. (3 Church Street, M-Sa 8:30-5, Su 10-4)

• INTERNET: Evil Eye Lounge, 42 Stonegate, York. (190 464 0002. M-W 10am-midnight, Th-F 10am-1am, Sa-Su 10am-midnight. Internet usage £1. You’re unlikely to find another internet café that serves cocktails.)

• POST OFFICE: The main post office is on Lendal, off of Museum Street. There is an ATM, but it can only be used during post office hours. M-Sa 9-5:30pm.

Emergency

• EMERGENCY NUMBER: 999.

• HOSPITAL: York District Hospital, Wigginton Road, York. (190 463 1313)

• POLICE: Yorkshire Police Station. (0845 60 60 247).

• PHARMACIES: Monkbar Pharmacy (3 Goodramgate 190 462 6181 Open M-Sa 7:30-10:30, Su 8:30-6:30.)

Getting Around

There are five buses: the White Line, which goes to Askham Bar; the Yellow Line, which goes to Grimston Bar; the Red Line, which goes to York Designer Outlet; the Silver Line, which goes to Monks Cross; and the Green Line, which goes to Rawcliffe Bar. Single fares start at £1. A weeks pass can be purchased for £12. However, if you plan on sticking within the city centre (that is, within the old city walls), buses shouldn’t be necessary. The city is highly walkable, being highly compact and having many pedestrian-only streets. While the medieval layout may require careful attention to your map, it doesn’t mean you need a bus to shuttle you around. Bus information: 019 04 55 14 00 or 014 82 22 22 22.

manchester

After London, Manchester is the English settlement that feels most like a city—it’s urban, cosmopolitan, and in-your-face. And that’s a good thing. Don’t be fooled by the remnants of industrial grit—this is a city with a thriving music scene, a penchant for independent film, and a collection of bars hipper than most of us can ever hope to be. But it’s also the birthplace of modern industry, the place where the atom was first split, and the place where the first stored-program computer was built. Confused yet? Grab a pint and come along for the ride.

get a room!

HATTERS MANCHESTER NEWTON STREET

HOSTEL $

50 Newton Street

161 236 9500

www.hattersgroup.com

Despite the name, there’s nothing mad about Hatters Newton Street. One of two hostels the Hatters Group operates in Manchester (they also have locations in Liverpool and Birmingham, Newton Street stands apart from the rest with its large rooms, generous staff, and unpretentious atmosphere. Just above the sink in the kitchen, there’s a sign with an angry baby on it: “Leave your dishes in the sink. I dare you” it reads. On every floor, there are blurbs about different Manchester bands and singers, ranging from the semi-famous (like Morrissey) to the not-quite-semi-famous (the Charlatans).

Though there are some privates, the emphasis is on dorms. These are generally quite large, meaning you won’t be stepping on someone else’s toes even if you’re in a ten or eight person room. The bathrooms, while not always en suite, are quite clean and have a lot of showers; you won’t be kept waiting. If you’re looking for a more intimate experience, Hatters Hilton Chambers, in keeping with their name, offer a more hotel-style experience: there are far more doubles and other such private rooms.

Continental breakfast and Wi-Fi are available (though the Wi-Fi is only accessible on the ground floor). Other amenities include a range of guided pub crawls: you can opt for a more traditional night out or explore the stranger establishments in the Northern Quarter.

Dorms from £13, privates from £20. Reception open 24hr.

SIGHTS

NATIONAL FOOTBALL MUSEUM

MUSEUM

Urbis Building, Cathedral Gardens

161 605 8200

www.nationalfootballmuseum.com

The National Football Museum looks like a giant shard of glass from the outside and an airport from the inside, but a quick glance at any of the exhibits will very quickly remind you just what this museum is about. There are archival clips playing everywhere, sounds from famous games on the speakers, and enough vintage photos to last a lifetime. The sole exception: an inexplicable life-size statue of Michael Jackson, which used to stand outside Craven Cottage, a football stadium that’s home to Fulham F.C.

Despite the name, there’s a fair bit of attention paid to football’s role on the international stage, with information about everything from Joan Míro’s poster for the 1982 World Cup to why Brazil hates Uruguay for beating them in the 1950 world cup (some fans were so distraught they had to be hospitalized).

As one might expect, there’s plenty of hero worship going on here, but the curators don’t get too carried away either; they humorously note that a George Best-themed jigsaw puzzle failed miserably in the British marketplace when he started playing for the Northern Irish football team. The inclusion of sculptured caricatures from satirical TV show Spitting Image also lighten the mood.

Admission is free, and maybe that’s for the best considering some of the items in the gift shop. The typical jerseys and football merchandise is priced as usual, but they offer have some signed items that are somewhat pricier; one with Péle’s autograph sells for £399. The museum is just a few blocks from Exchange Square; if you’re coming from the town centre, walk down Market Street and then north on Corporation Street. Once you get to Exchange Square, take a right.

Free. Open M-Sa 10-5pm, Su 11-5pm.

THE WHEEL OF MANCHESTER

FERRIS WHEEL

Piccadilly Gardens

161 236 6512

www.freijwheels.com/our-wheels.php?city=manchester

The London Eye is definitely England’s most famous ferris wheel (and probably its most famous eye, unless you count David Bowie’s discolored one). But at 173 feet, the Wheel of Manchester is no slouch either. The current incarnation (it’s been built three times at this point, at one point reaching a height of 180 feet) is located in Piccadilly Gardens, close to the National Football Museum and Manchester Cathedral. Given the number of tall buildings around Piccadilly Gardens, your view of greater Manchester may be somewhat limited, but you’ll certainly still get thrills from looking down.

Though the Wheel of Manchester is currently located in Piccadilly Gardens, it stood in nearby Exchange Square until 2012. Some contend that the wheel was moved because people got tired of how it looked in Exchange Square, which means we can count on another move in about five years. We’ll keep you posted.

The elephant in the room, of course, is that the Wheel of Manchester is currently closed until further notice. There have been no shortage of problems affecting the wheel—fountain leakage underneath necessitated the latest close, but just a couple weeks earlier it was scaled by a prominent gangster making a political protest. This never happened in Lock, Stock, and Two Smoking Barrels. For now, you’ll have to content yourself with the thrills you get from looking up at the darned thing. Currently located in Piccadilly Gardens, the Wheel is just a few blocks away from Piccadilly Station.

£9, seniors £7.50, children £6.50, under 3 £2.

CORNERHOUSE

GALLERY

70 Oxford Street

161 200 1500

www.cornerhouse.org

Manchester’s city center is already compact, but in terms of sheer convenience you can’t improve on the Cornerhouse. Imagine meeting a boy or girl in a bookstore. You have a coffee date, then check out an art gallery. You meet up again for dinner and a movie, then have drinks afterwards. All of those activities could take place in one building: the Cornerhouse. At the very least, you’ll save big money on taxis.

Simply put, the Cornerhouse is a cultural juggernaut. The ground floor bookstore specializes in hyper obscure periodicals and texts on film theory. The movies shown are strictly independent. The coffee is only available black. Kidding about the last one. In fact, the atmosphere is far from alienating. The restaurant is staffed by a friendly group that’s happy to tell you about the many beers and ciders they have on draught; they’ve got ten on tap, plus a few cask ales. And when you stop by on a quiet afternoon, you’ll have no problem grabbing a table, whipping out your computer, and starting to work—the wifi’s free.

Of course, the restaurant isn’t why people are coming here (though they do have some great sandwiches, including a croque-monsier with pesto). The movies really are the main attraction. Here, you’ll find all the latest independent hits.

Gallery admission free. Tickets £6 before 5pm (£4.50 for students and seniors); £8 after 5pm (£6 for students and seniors). Galleries open Tu-Sa 12-8, Su 12-6, M closed. Film schedule variable.

FOOD

TERRACE

RESTAURANT, BAR $

43 Thomas Street

161 819 2345

twitter.com/nqterrace

Located in the swinging Northern Quarter district, Terrace cultivates a hip, detached atmosphere. The soundtrack is eclectic (everything from the Magnetic Fields to Serge Gainsbourg) but always rock snob approved. Most of the lighting comes from the floor length windows at the front and back, leaving much of the interior dim. There’s exposed brick everywhere—some seats are nearly inside an old fireplace—and small red Christmas lights hang from the ceiling. Part of this is just keeping up appearances in the Northern Quarter—they’re surrounded by vintage stores, hipster bars, and record shops, so they have to look the part. Can you imagine the fallout if they turned some more lights on?

Luckily, Terrace doesn’t skimp on the most important part: its food and drink. With a big selection of beers on tap and a delicious array of sandwiches, burgers, and pizzas, Terrace excels with what seems like a very limited palette. The burgers and sandwiches are fairly traditional, but look out for the pizza’s varied toppings: goat cheese, lamb meatballs, and duck have all popped up on various pies.

The bar crowd may get rowdy later in the evening (dancing’s popular here), but a low-key atmosphere prevails during the day, aided by the mellow yet hip soundtrack.

Pizzas, sandwiches, and burgers £7-11. Open Su-W 10am-midnight. Th 10am-12:30am. F 10am-1am. Sa 9am-1am.

KITCHENETTE

RESTAURANT $$

60 Oxford Street

161 228 6633

www.mudcrabindustries.co.uk/manchester

“High class junk food” is the Kitchenette’s motto, and their menu certainly includes high-calorie classics like bacon cheeseburgers, mac’n’cheese, and nachos. But they’re really known for their hirata buns, which they describe as “a New York version of Taiwanese street food with a Japanese name.” It’s a little confusing, and so is the way they serve it: the buns come in a thatched basket, the filling comes in porcelain containers, and everything’s placed on top of a rough board of wood. Oh, and it also comes with your personal bottle of Sriracha. Though it may be hard to wrap your head around this (and even harder to wrap the filling into the bun), the taste is all the explanation you need. Two buns are hardly enough to fit all the meat and vegetables they give you (the goal is to get something that looks like “Pac-Man on steroids,” if that helps) but you can get another 2 for £3. The fillings range from chargrilled steak to salmon teriyaki. There’s even something to satisfy the vegetarians, who can rest assured that the “fried oyster mushroom” filling doesn’t actually have oysters.

While you’re stuffing Pac-Man and then stuffing your face, treat yourself to views of the Bridgewater Canal, visible through the large floor-to-ceiling windows in the lower area. Though the restaurant looks small from Oxford Street, there are sizable rooms downstairs, with tables and booths able to seat very large groups. Maybe they should call it Kitchenpalooza.

The beer menu isn’t huge (3 on draught and a couple bottles), but the cocktails run the gamut from old school mouth-puckerers like the Americano to sweeter drinks like daiquiris and bellinis.

Entrees £11-14. Open daily noon-11pm.

NIGHTLIFE

DUSK TIL PAWN

BAR

Stevenson Square, Northern Quarter

161 236 5355

www.facebook.com/dusktilpawn

Yes, From Dusk til Pawn is designed to look like a pawn shop from the exterior. There’s no sign of it being a bar—just a couple old TVs, guitars, and a neon sign that says “PAWN SHOP.” If you’re looking for a bar, you might very well miss it; the ultra-hip Northern Quarter has enough vintage stores that a pawn shop doesn’t merit a second look. If you’re looking for a pawn shop (maybe you’re a big fan of Pawn Stars and want to see how the Brits do it), you’ll be pleasantly surprised with one of the coolest cocktail bars in Manchester.

Part Dusk til Pawn’s success comes from its versatility. During the low-key early hours, the bartenders are eager to strike up conversation and might even take a shot with you. As the night heats up, the fairly large space fills up without seeming too crowded. You could easily end up spending a good portion of your evening here.

The liquor cabinet itself is pretty no-frills (metal and wood shelves), but the number of bottles has to be seen to be believed. Take special heed of the various bitters (look for all the tiny bottles) and marvel at the collection of gin, which includes more varieties than you knew existed (one is titled “Bathtub Gin”).

Their selection of bottled beers isn’t shabby, but those truly looking to stray from the beaten path should sample a pickleback (a shot of whiskey followed by a shot of pickle juice) or a backbeet (gin then beet juice). The first one may make you grimace, but the second one is a great way to get some beta-carotene in your system. Now that’s drinking responsibly.

Cocktails about £6.50; picklebacks/backbeets £3. Open Tu-Th 5pm-1am, F-Sa 5pm-3am, Su 5pm-1am. Closed Mondays.

THE TEMPLE

BAR

100 Great Bridgewater Street

161 278 1610

If you’re walking down Oxford Street and hear a roar of voices coming from underground, don’t freak out about mole-people planning a revolt. You’re just passing by the Temple, a tiny but energetic bar located in a former public toilet. Yes, you read that correctly. And yes, it’s been cleaned since then (the space has been a bar since the early ‘90s).

Any doubts you have while walking down the well-preserved staircase will be eradicated when you step into the actual bar, with its funky leather couches, old school jukebox, and generous beer and liquor selection. There are only a couple of beers on tap, but the large refrigerator has everything from light Mexican beers like Pacifico to Belgian heavy-hitters like Chimay. Given the small space, you’ll probably be outed as a tourist pretty quickly—that is, if locals can believe you even found the place.

Rock and roll will be playing throughout the night, and while you won’t see any dancing, the right song will get people yelling and singing along. If you need a bit of air, plenty of people hang on the steps to smoke (that won’t help you with fresh air, but it’s a nice respite from the interior nonetheless).

Beers £3-5. Open M-Th 11:30am-1am, F-Sa 11:30am-2am. Su closed.

ESSENTIALS

Practicalities

• CASH: There are Lloyds ATMs located on 42-46 Market Street and at 324-326 Oxford Road, in the University District. There is a 24 hour ATM at the Atherton Post Office on 116-118 Market Street.

• POST OFFICE: Atherton Post Office, 116-118 Market Street. Open M-Sa 8:30am-6pm. Features include currency exchange and a 24 hour ATM.

• INTERNET CAFES: L2K Internet Gaming Café. (32 Princess Street. www.l2k.co.uk. 61 244 5566. Open daily 11am-10pm. £2 per hour. Printing costs 10p per page.)

Emergency

• EMERGENCY NUMBERS: 999 or 112.

• PHARMACIES: Boots Manchester Piccadilly (11-13 Piccadilly, Manchester. Open M-F 7:30am-8pm, Sa 9am-6:30pm, Su noon-5:30pm. 161 834 8244.)

• HOSPITALS: Manchester Royal Infirmary (Oxford Road. 161 276 1234.

Getting Around

Manchester’s Metrolink is a tram system with six different routes. There are several stops within the city zones, including those at Piccadilly Station, Deansgate, and Market Street; however, you can also get out to suburbs like Rochdale. Singles are £1.20 within the city center.

liverpool

Liverpool may never again be as cool as it was in the early sixties, when Lilipudlian bands topped the charts worldwide (despite names like “The Swinging Blue Jeans.”). But let’s face it—most cities never attain that level of coolness anyway, and the city on the Mersey still has plenty to recommend it. From the staggering museums in the Cultural Quarter to the beautiful canals of Albert Dock, Liverpool is a city filled with vibrant attractions, most of which emphasize the city’s varied history. As a major port, it imported items from all over the world; as a major pop music producer, it started exporting hits.

Whether you’re having a pint at one of the city’s many craft beer bars or sampling some great grub in the small but electrifying Chinatown, you’ll soon discover that there’s much more to this place than the Beatles—though if that’s all you’re interested in, you won’t lack for places to visit.

SIGHTS

THE BEATLES STORY

MUSEUM

Brittania Vaults, Kings Dock Street

252 709 1963

www.beatlesstory.com

“Welcome to the story of the best band in the world, ever” reads a sign at the beginning of the Beatles Story. They’re not pulling any punches here. Is this the best museum in the world, ever? No, but it’s fun to visit nonetheless. As you walk through the exhibit, you’ll encounter reproductions of various environments where the Fab Four played and worked: the Kaiserkeller in Hamburg, the Cavern Club in Liverpool, a Brian Epstein’s office and record store, just to name a few. All this is interspersed with archival photos and, of course, a nonstop Beatles soundtrack. Many viewers make use of the free audio guide, as the wall text can be somewhat lacking. The post-Liverpool years go by a little more quickly, but there’s still a lot to savor, including a Pan Am jet interior (for when they went to the States in 1964), a scaled up diorama of the Sergeant Pepper’s Lonely Hearts Club Band cover (complete with a listing of every darned person who appears on it), and, of course, a yellow submarine. At the end, there are mini-exhibits about each member’s life afterwards. You probably know what happened to John, Paul, and George, but this is your opportunity to learn all about Ringo Starr’s ill-fated film career. Representative titles: Son of Dracula, Blindman, Caveman. And of course there’s the gift shop, where you can finally get what you’ve always needed: rain boots that say “the Beatles.”

The museum is located on Albert Dock, near the Maritime Museum, the Museum of Liverpool, and Tate Liverpool. Walk towards the Mersey from the City Centre.

£12.95 adults, £9.50 students and seniors, £7 children. Open daily: 10-5pm November-March, 9-5pm April-October

get a room!

HOAX

54 Stanley Street

151 909 4810

www.hoaxliverpool.com

If you are not the sort of person who likes to walk around very much, Hoax might be the hostel you’re looking for. There is a restaurant on the premises. There is a bar in the basement. There is live music on Wednesdays, Fridays, and Saturdays. You can see a lot while moving very little. Hoax, of course, is not just for couch potatoes. Located near the Cavern Quarter and Albert Dock, it’s a quick walk to many of Liverpool’s most famous sites, making it a perfect home base for your touristic excursions into the city centre.

Regardless of your traveling habits, the rooms at Hoax will make you happy you stayed there. All bathrooms are ensuite, regardless of whether you’re in a double, quad, or six or eight person dorm. Most of the rooms boast views of Liverpool’s shopping district.

Breakfast is not included, but you can get discounted meals at Hopskotch, the aforementioned restaurant. The food is high-quality but not the healthiest (hotdogs and ribs abound).

All in all, the friendly staff, great accomodations, and surplus of activities make this a great place to stay. And that’s no hoax.

Dorms about £15, privates about £15 per person. Reception open 24hr.

MUSEUM OF LIVERPOOL

MUSEUM

Pier Head

151 478 4545

www.liverpoolmuseums.org.uk/mol/

James Joyce wrote that his goal with Ulysses was to provide a perfect image of Dublin, so that if the city was somehow destroyed it could be reconstituted from his novel. If Liverpool were to disappear, you could probably pull a similar trick with the Museum of Liverpool, which documents just about every aspect of the English city’s history. The archival material contained here is tremendous—they’ve got everything from commemorative key-chains to a reconstruction of an overheard train car. Walk through the museum once and you’d ace a quiz about the city and its history.

The most energetic exhibit is the one devoted to Liverpool’s musical heritage. The Beatles loom large here (obviously), but other Liverpool hit-makers like Frankie Goes to Hollywood, Cilla Black, and the Swinging Blue Jeans also get their fair share. You can test your knowledge with an interactive Liverpool music quiz and marvel at the collarless gray suits worn by the Beatles when they struck it big.

Still, other exhibits have plenty to offer as well—there’s information about Liverpool’s political history, its role as a global city, and numerous rotating exhibits highlighting specific figures or movements. The one complaint: a few too many creepy wax dummies, especially in the aforementioned train car. The museum is located on Pier Head, near Albert Dock. Walk towards the Mersey from the City Centre.

Free. Open daily 10am-5pm.

INTERNATIONAL SLAVERY MUSEUM

MUSEUM

Albert Dock, 3rd floor of Mersey Maritime Museum

151 478 4499

www.liverpoolmuseums.org/ism

Most of the Maritime Museum, where the International Slavery Museum is located, is upbeat and joyful. Look at these awesome boats! Revel in our shipbuilding history! Even the Titanic exhibit is tinged with nostalgia for a lost era.

If you have brains in your head, you have probably gathered that the International Slavery Museum has a very different tone, and that’s to its credit. Though the exhibit doesn’t shy away from depicting the horrors of slavery—you’ll see shackles, iron muzzles, and torture devices, along with one darkened room with audio meant to approximate the experience of being on a slave ship—its larger focus is on Liverpool’s complicity in the industry. And that turns out to be darned unsettling too. For maximum impact, make this one of your last stops in Liverpool.

One interactive portion features the names of several famous Liverpool streets, including the Beatles-inspiring Penny Lane. Flip the signs over, and you’ll see which vicious slave trader or opponent of abolitionism the street was made for. This is Liverpool’s history, the exhibit is saying, and we have to face it. Equally important is a window that allows the viewer to look out on the docks below. There’s a simple text besides the window, reminding them that slave ships were built here.

Right in the middle of the exhibit, there’s a staircase leading to the Maritime Dining Rooms, the upscale restaurant housed in the museum. We wonder if that’s good for anyone’s appetites. The museum is located in the Maritime Museum, near the Museum of Liverpool, the Beatles Story, and Tate Liverpool. Walk towards the Mersey from the City Centre.

Free. Open daily 10am-5pm.

FOOD

LUCHA LIBRE

MEXICAN $$

96 Wood Street

151 329 0200

www.lucha-libre.co.uk

Yes, this Mexican street food restaurant is named after the weirdest sport in the world: Mexican wrestling. Can you think of another sport where the athletes star in films about fighting vampires? Didn’t think so. But while the restaurant’s decor traffics in that slightly goofy atmosphere, the attitude that Lucha Libre’s staff has towards the food is 100% serious. Want burritos? Tacos? Enchiladas? They’ve got them all here, and they can fill them with whatever you like. Almost as long as their food menu is their list of available tequilas—the knowledgeable wait staff can help you pair a particular blend with your selected meals. They can also recommend which of the many appetizers and sides pairs best with your main choice. It’s almost as if they want you to buy more food or something.

Despite the English reputation for mild flavors, these guys actually know how to pile on the spice. Water’s served in carafes, and you may find yourself reaching for a refill or three after a whiff of the entrees.

Given the restaurant’s proximity to cultural center FACT and the left-wing shops on Bold Street, the crowd is largely young and hip. You might find them heading to spots like the Shipping News or Santa Chupitos afterwards. But you don’t need to be gearing up for a night on the town to enjoy Lucha Libre—all you need are some taste buds.

Burritos £6-7, entrées £10-12.

NIGHTLIFE

SANTA CHUPITOS

BAR

41 Slater Street

151 707 6527

www.santachupitos.com

There are more than a few derelict shops on Slater Street, and at first glance Santa Chupitos looks like one of them. With an all black exterior, closed shades, and slim signage (there’s a small plaque that reads “SANTAS CHUPITOS” in small letters), it’s the kind of place you don’t look at twice. But then you realize the door is open, there’s music playing, and the bartender is mixing some delicious cocktails. You’ll be glad you took a second look.

Inside, the decor is similarly muted—the walls are black and red, a couple red lights, and something that looks like a stuffed squirrel. Your eyes gravitate to the imposing bar, with a truly awe-inspiring collection of liquor, and the cocktail menu, written near the ceiling and decorated with numerous skulls. Despite the macho death wish decor, the cocktails consist of more than malt whisky and sweat. Many are frozen or involve copious amounts of mixers. Try the five dollar shake: blueberries, vodka, raspberry liqueur, and ice cream. Unfortunately, it costs more than five dollars. If you need something a little more manly, we recommend the Bacon and Maple Old Fashioned, which includes both bacon and maple syrup. Sounds like the Ron Swanson special. Out back there’s a small seating area.

Bartenders will serve you complimentary snacks (pretzels, popcorn, and the like) in metal mugs. Given the high salt content of these snacks, it’s not impossible that they want to get you thirsty so you’ll buy more drinks. We’re not complaining.

Cocktails from £5-9. Open M-W 5pm-2am, Th 5pm-3am, F-Sa 5pm-4am, Su 5pm-3am.

THE PHILHARMONIC DINING ROOMS

BAR

36 Hope Street

151 707 2837

www.nicholsonspub.co.uk

The Philharmonic Dining Rooms constitute one of the nicest bars you will ever go to. Sure, there are bars with fancier cocktails, bars on the top of fifty-floor hotels, bars where you can’t get in unless your great-great-great-great-grandfather signed the Magna Carta. But in terms of restrained yet pure classiness, it’s hard to beat the Philharmonic, named for its proximity to Liverpool’s concert hall. And the beer selection is pretty damn good too.

How nice is the Phil? Imagine wood paneled walls, marble fireplaces, stained glass windows, paintings on the ceiling—and that’s only one room. The building is a Grade II listed site, having been recognized as an exceptional example of a Victorian pub. It feels almost unnatural to discuss contemporary events in this time capsule—you feel as if you should be debating Disraeli’s foreign policy.

Still, that won’t impede you and your friends for knocking back a few delicious pints in one of the bar’s various rooms: choose from the main bar area, the Brahms room, the Liszt room, or the Grandé Lounge. With an ever-rotating selection of cask ales, this is where you go to enjoy great beer without having to endure a hipster crowd.

And then there are the men’s urinals. Contrary to popular belief, they are not Grade I listed. They are, however, made of marble. Male readers, this is unquestionably the nicest thing you’ll ever pee in. Female readers, don’t fret: you can get a tour led by the management, though male patrons might be a little shocked.

Pints £3-5. Open M-Su 11am-12am.

ESSENTIALS

Practicalities

• CASH: There are Halifax ATMs located on 2 Paradise Street and 30 Bold Street. There is a Lloyds ATM located at 26 Broadway.

• POST OFFICE: 1-3 South John Street, Liverpool. Open M-Sa 9-5:30pm and Su 11-3pm. Features include currency exchange.

• INTERNET CAFES: Le Boulevard Internet Café, 39 Clayton Square Shopping Centre, Liverpool. 151 709 6247. Open daily from 9:15am-5pm.

Emergency

• PHARMACIES: Boots Pharmacy, Clayton Square Shopping Center. Open M-Sa 8:15am-7pm, Su 11am-5pm. 151 709 4711

• HOSPITALS: Royal Liverpool University Hospital, Prescot Street, Liverpool. 151 706 2000 In an emergency, dial 112 or 999.

Getting Around

Bus is the main form of public transport in Liverpool. Major bus stations in the city center are Liverpool ONE and the Queen Square Bus Station. Ticket fares depending on bus company; one of the cheapest is Arriva, with fares of £2.10 for adults and £1.70 for students with valid ID.

great britain essentials

VISAS

Britain is not a signatory of the Schengen Agreement, which means it is not a member of the freedom of movement zone that covers most of continental Europe. Fortunately, its visa policies are fairly simple (for casual travelers, at least). EU citizens do not need a visa to visit Britain. Citizens of Australia, Canada, New Zealand, the US, and many other non-EU countries do not need a visa for stays of up to six months. Those staying longer than six months may apply for a longer-term visa; consult an embassy or consulate for more information. Because Britain is not a part of the Schengen zone, time spent here does not count toward the 90-day limit on travel within that area. Entering to study or work will require a visa. Check www.ukvisas.gov.uk for more information.

MONEY

Tipping and Bargaining

Tips in restaurants are sometimes included in the bill (it will appear as a “service charge”). If gratuity is not included, you should tip your server about 10%. Taxi drivers should receive a 10% tip, and bellhops and chambermaids usually expect £1-3 per night. To the great relief of many budget travelers, tipping is not expected at pubs and bars in Britain (unless you are trying to get jiggy with the bartender). Bargaining is practically unheard of in the upscale shops that overrun London. Don’t try it (unless you happen to be at a street market or feel particularly belligerent).

Taxes

The UK has a 20% value added tax (VAT), a sales tax applied to everything but food, books, medicine, and children’s clothing. The tax is included in the amount indicated on the price tag. The prices stated in Let’s Go include VAT unless otherwise mentioned. Upon exiting Britain, non-EU citizens can reclaim VAT (minus an administrative fee) through the Retail Export Scheme, although the process is time-consuming, annoying, and may not be worth it, except for large purchases. You can obtain refunds only for goods you take out of the country (not for accommodations or noms). Participating shops display a “Tax-Free Shopping” sign and may have a minimum purchase of £50-100 before they offer refunds. To claim a refund, fill out the form you are given in the shop and present it with the goods and receipts at customs upon departure (look for the Tax-Free Refund desk at the airport). At peak times, this process can take up to an hour. You must leave the country within three months of your purchase in order to claim a refund, and you must apply before leaving the UK. If you’re ready to hop the pond and not hop back, to perfect your British accent, or to pull a Beatles in reverse and take London by storm with your electro-funk country band (you know they’re ready for it), then this is the section for you. We’ve got you non-tourist visitors covered for places to study, volunteer, and work (they’ll warm to your music eventually, but you need some ca$h money in the meantime).

BEYOND TOURISM

STUDY

• UNIVERSITY COLLEGE LONDON (UCL): Known as “London’s global university,” UCL has top marks in both student satisfaction and quality of teaching. Together with King’s College, UCL formed the foundation of the University of London system back in 1836. (www.ucl.ac.uk)

• KING’S COLLEGE LONDON: You’ll be steeped in history both royal and pop at this college, which is the third oldest university in England and an inspiration for Dan Brown’s imagination. (www.kcl.ac.uk)

• LONDON SCHOOL OF HYGIENE AND TROPICAL MEDICINE (LSHTM): The most intriguingly named school in the University of London system, LSHTM is also a top postgraduate school in the fields of public health and tropical medicine. (www.lshtm.ac.uk)

• TRINITY LABAN CONSERVATOIRE OF MUSIC AND DANCE: As the label “Conservatoire” would suggest, this is a place to develop highly specialized artistic skills. However, the school also offers some classes that are open to the public. (www.trinitylaban.ac.uk)

VOLUNTEER

• MUSEUM OF LONDON: What could be cooler than spending your free time learning to work with artifacts and archiving historical objects? (www.museumoflondon.org.uk/Get-in-volved/Volunteers)

• THE CONSERVATION VOLUNTEERS: If you’ve got a green thumb and have already checked with the doctor that it’s not gangrene, put your unusual pigmentation to good use greening urban spaces and “reclaiming green spaces.” (http://www.tcv.org.uk)

• ZOOLOGICAL SOCIETY OF LONDON: Think less Eliza Thornberry and more Lyra Belacqua when she’s in Oxford; volunteer positions do not generally involve contact with animals. (http://www.zsl.org/membership/volunteering)

• LONDON HEALTH SCIENCES CENTER: If you have a lot of joy and a big heart, there’s no better way to share it than with people whose health is not as strong. (http://www.lhsc.on.ca/About_Us/Volunteer_Services)

• NATURAL HISTORY MUSEUM: What better way to get in touch with London’s natural history roots than to volunteer at the Natural History Museum. (www.nhm.ac.uk/support-us/volunteer)

• ENGLISH HERITAGE: If you’re looking to connect with London’s history and roots beyond what’s Natural, check out this organization. (www.english-heritage.org.uk/caring/get-involved/volunteering)

• DOGS TRUST: That’s right, there’s a charity that lets you hang out with dogs (walk them, play with them, cuddle with them) in your free time. (www.dogstrust.org.uk/giving/supportyourcentre/volunteer)

WORK

• RECRUITMENT AGENCIES: One of the best ways to locate where the jobs are in London is to visit a recruitment agency specific to your field. (www.agencycentral.co.uk)

• GOVERNMENT-RUN JOB CENTERS: Another avenue to tracking down jobs in your area of interest and expertise, though if you want to snag that job, best start referring to these as government-run job ‘centres.’ (https://www.gov.uk/jobsearch)

• NEWSPAPER POSTINGS: You can never go wrong with some good, old-fashioned scouring of the classifieds. Try The Guardian jobs, for instance. (http://jobs.theguardian.com/jobs/uk/england/greater-london)

• PEEK-A-BOO CHILDCARE: Au pair gigs are like free homestays, but with way more responsibility. They are a great way to learn about London culture while also making lifelong bonds with a family. Check out Peek-a-Boo Childcare for a reputable and established au pair agency based in London. (www.peekaboochildcare.com/for-au-pairs.aspx)

• GREATER LONDON TUTORS: Knowing English is not exactly a marketable skill in London, so teaching English is not a great way to make money here, but tutoring other subjects is a viable option. (www.greaterlondontutors.com)

SAFETY AND HEALTH

Police

Police are a common presence in Britain and there are many police stations scattered throughout the city. There are two types of police officers in Britain: regular officers with full police powers, and police community support officers (PCSO), who have limited police power and focus on community maintenance and safety. The national emergency number is 999.

Drugs and Alcohol

The Brits love to drink, so the presence of alcohol is unavoidable. In trying to keep up with the locals, remember that the Imperial pint is 20oz., as opposed to the 16oz. US pint. The legal age at which you can buy alcohol in the UK is 18 (16 for buying beer and wine with food at a restaurant).

Despite what you may have seen on Skins, use and possession of hard drugs is illegal throughout the United Kingdom. Do not test this—Britain has been cracking down on drug use amongst young people in particular over the past few years. Smoking is banned in enclosed public spaces in Britain, including pubs and restaurants.

Terrorism

The bombings of July 7, 2005 in the London Underground revealed the vulnerability of large European cities to terrorist attacks and resulted in the enforcement of stringent safety measures at airports and major tourist sights throughout British cities. Though eight years have passed, security checks are still as thorough as ever. Allow extra time for airport security and do not pack sharp objects in your carry-on luggage—they will be confiscated. Unattended luggage is always considered suspicious and is also liable for confiscation. Check your home country’s foreign affairs office for travel information and advisories, and be sure to follow the local news while in the UK.

MEASUREMENTS

Britain uses a thoroughly confusing and illogical mix of standard and metric measurement units. Road distances are always measured in miles, and many Brits will be clueless if you give them distances in kilometers. For weights, don’t be surprised to see grams and ounces used side-by-side. There’s also a measurement called a “stone,” equal to 14lb., that is regularly used for giving body weights. Paradoxically, meters and centimeters are the most common way to give body heights. How the British ever accomplished anything in this world when they can’t settle on a consistent system of measurements, we’ll never know.