020 7221 9549GELATO $
43 Westbourne Grove
020 7221 9549
A constant stream of customers slip in and out of this über-modern gelateria in the heart of Hyde Park. The signature flavor—Snowflake—is a feathery mix of white chocolate, coconut, and almond that transcends ice cream and lands somewhere between whipped, frozen nectar of the gods and really great gelato. Takeaway is a popular option, but the pure white leather booths and delicate lighting makes you feel like you’re eating in the Snow Queen’s palace (happily, the mirrors remain on the wall instead of as a shard in your eye).
Bayswater. Turn left out of the station onto Queensway, then turn left again onto Westbourne Grove. The gelateria is on the left. 1 scoop £3, 2 scoops £4, 3 scoops £5. 
Open M-Th 10:30am-11:30pm, F-Sa 10:30am-12:30am, Su 10:30am-midnight.
Marylebone and Bloomsbury
LA FROMAGERIE
CHEESE $
2-6 Moxon St.
020 7935 0341
Cheese. Everywhere. In the cheese room. In the cafe. On your plate. In your stomach. Oh there is a reason heroin is nicknamed as such, and while Let’s Go does not condone drug use, you can quit che—alright, we shall enable you. Sample one of the cheese plates (we recommend the British one) from the quaint, rustic cafe; then pick out some cheese from vault-like cheese room. Then buy some of La Fromagerie’s special cheese crackers. Then, declare madness. For how can you claim sanity when you think there is no way your cheese can be better than last time, when, in fact, it is and will be with each bite, you fool!
Baker St. Turn left onto Marylebone Rd., right onto Marylebone High St., and right again onto Moxon St. Cheese prices vary wildly. Small cheese plate £8.75; large £13.50. Wine pairings by the glass £5-10. Open M-F 8am-7:30pm, Sa 9am-7pm, Su 10am-6pm.
SPEEDY’S CAFÉ
CAFE $
187 North Gower St.
020 7383 3485
Because of the commercialization of Baker St. proper, North Gower St. has become the new home of Sir Arthur Conan Doyle’s hero in the deerstalker (or shall we say ear hat?). Despite its newfound fame due to its prominence in BBC’s Sherlock, Speedy’s and its delicious sandwiches remain cheap (£3-5), and the decor very modestly acknowledges its role in the series with only a few pictures and drawings of the cast. Moreover, the friendly staff couldn’t possibly include someone that would lead on Mrs. Hudson while having wives in Doncaster and Islamabad. Enjoy your own seven percent solution (of coffee beans) and a sarnie after a visit to the British Library—a resource we’re admittedly not sure could help with cataloging 243 different types of tobacco ash.
Euston Square. Take the Euston Rd. exit, turn right onto Euston Rd., then right onto North Gower St. Speedy’s is on the left. Entrees £6-8. Open M-F early-3:30pm, Sa early-1:30pm.
NEWMAN ARMS
PIES $$
23 Rathbone St.
020 7636 1127
Newman Arms recently faced the wrath of the Westminster City Council, which decreed that it must serve its pies “more slowly” as a strategy to reduce the number of after-work drinkers milling on the street outside. However, the fact that this is even a problem is just good testament to the charm of the three-centuries-old purveyor of pies. Head upstairs to the Pie Room to try such delicacies as lamb and rosemary or beef and Guinness. Afterward, do not make the mistake of thinking Spotted Dick has anything to do with your cutaneously-challenged ex-boyfriend (or his member). It’s simply vegetable pie with currants. And delicious.
Goodge St. Turn left onto Tottenham Court Rd., left onto Tottenham St., left onto Charlotte St., and right onto Rathbone St. Enter through the corridor next to the entrance to the pub. Pies £10-12.50. Desserts £4.50. Pints from £3.50. Open M-F noon-3pm and 6-10pm.
SHIBUYA
JAPANESE $$
2 Acton St.
020 7278 3447
In the city proper, sushi this fresh would cost a sum thrice that of Shibuya’s offerings. The restaurant’s atmosphere is a modern zen haven filled with the lilting birdsong of light J-pop hits and natural fresh light (that streams through some heraldry stained glass). Enjoy one of the sake choices, and if sushi is too raw/too bougie for your taste, select a curry or rice dish. Admittedly, Shibuya does cater to yuppies that seemingly teleport through the less-coiffed St. Pancras area from business-formal Marylebone. However, Shibuya remains a wonderful place to clear your palate and your head and ultimately emerge unsullied by the suited, hunched patrons surrounding you.
King’s Cross St. Pancras. Make a left leaving the station, stay on Euston as it turns into Pentonville Rd., then make a right onto King’s Cross Rd. The restaurant is on the corner with Acton St. Sushi from £3.80. Sushi combos from £15. Entrees £9.50- £10. Lunch M-F noon-3pm. Dinner daily 6pm-10:30pm.
North London
LA CRÊPERIE DE HAMPSTEAD
CREPERIE $
Around 77 Hampstead HighSt.
020 7445 6767
Hampstead natives swear that this creperie saves a trip across the Channel. Hampstead natives also hit the level of privilege where going across the Channel merely for some crepes isn’t that strange. Regardless of its posh patrons, you can snag a delicious, filling crepe here in a cone for under £5 with little to no wait; then, take it to the Heath.
Hampstead. Turn left onto Hampstead High St. No seating. Most crepes from £3.90-4.50. Open M-Th 11:45am-11pm, F-Su 11:45am-11:30pm.
LE MERCURY
FRENCH $$
140A Upper St.
020 7354 4088
Complete your English experience by expatriating your palate to France. In London, your Gaul options are usually limited to Michelin star restaurants and Pret a Manger. Le Mercury strikes a happy medium, with low prices (all dishes under £9) and ambitious items like Poir pochee et bleu (white wine poached pear, blue cheese and roast walnuts) and slow-roasted pork belly with celeriac confeit. Enjoy them in the yellow interior dotted by flickering candlelight.
Angel. Exit and turn right onto Upper St. Starters £4. Main courses £9. Desserts £3. Open M-Sa noon-1am, Su noon-11:30pm.
MANGO ROOM
CARIBBEAN $$
10-12 Kentish Town Rd.
020 7482 5065
Stables Market is filled with black-clad teenagers arguing through mouthfuls of dried-out stall rice about who is faker (the girl with the avian-themed dress or the boy with the horn-rimmed glasses?). Ignore that “scene” and head to a truly authentic restaurant dominated by bright paintings, reggae, and delicious Caribbean dishes—like ackee and saltfish, jerk chicken, and curries.
Camden High St. Turn left onto Camden High St., left onto Camden Rd., and left onto Kentish Town Rd. Lunch entrees £7.50-9. Dinner entrees £11-15. Open daily noon-11pm.
CAFE 1001
CAFE $
91 Brick Ln.
020 7247 9679
After you’ve picked up some avian-emblazoned apparel at Old Spitalfields Market, walk over to this alleyway coffee shop whose patrons converse enough to rival Scheherazade. The warehouse space is a solid option for an afternoon coffee, but is good for heartier grill fare like barbecue and burgers. At night, the salad bar transitions to a real bar, and the back room becomes a venue for up-and-coming bands and DJs. Bloc Party filmed their video for “The Prayer” here; in their apt, immortal words, “East London is a vampire.”
Aldgate East. Turn left onto Whitechapel Rd., left onto Osborn St., then continue onto Brick Ln. Free Wi-Fi. Live bands on Tu (rock) and W (folk and jazz). Swing dancing classes Th 11am-5pm. Club night F-Su 7pm-midnight. Cover £3-5 after midnight. Burger and chips £5. Coffee £1.20-2. Open daily 7am-midnight, often stays open all night F-Su.
MIEN TAY
VIETNAMESE $
122 Kingsland Rd.
020 7729 3074
What Brick Lane is to Bengali food, this stretch of Kingsland Rd. is to Vietnamese cuisine. Mien Tay sets itself above the rest the hackneyed options with low prices and high-quality, crispy spring rolls, fragrant pho, and tasty noodle dishes (try the lemongrass and curry noodles). The service is swift, and the dining room is bright and roomy. We recommend coming before or after a visit to the nearby Geffrye Museum.
Hoxton. Make a left after leaving the station, then a right onto Cremer St., and a left onto Kingsland Rd. Starters £2-5. Main courses £5-9. Open M-Sa noon-11pm, Su noon-10pm.
South London
FRANCO MANCA
PIZZERIA $
Unit 4, Market Row
020 7738 3021
It’s not the most inviting of scenarios, winding your way through the back alley corridors of a Brixton shopping complex to reach Franca Manca. Nevertheless, the boisterous flow of Italian and divine smells of pizza toppings other than “cheese” are worth the strange approach. The crust is a light sourdough concoction, the olive oil is organic, and the toppings include some bold choices like courgettes and aubergines (that’s zucchini and eggplant, y’all) and yellow peppers. If we have not yet convinced you, the bottles of libation are quite liberally priced, all under £20.
Brixton. Make a left leaving the Tube, a quick left onto Electric Ave., then a right onto Electric Ln., and a left onto Market Row. Pizza £4.50-7. Open M noon-5pm, Tu-Sa noon-11pm, Su noon-10:30pm.
NEGRIL
CARIBBEAN $$
132 Brixton Hill
020 8674 8798
Brixton is famous for its Afro-Caribbean food, and Negril is the place to sample some of its greatest hits. You can try regional specialties like callaloo (a leafy green), saltfish fritters, and goat curry or go with something more familiar, like roasted chicken or barbeque ribs (as well as smoothies). They also have quite a few vegan options, in accordance with the traditional Rastafarian diet. The weekend brunch is very popular and allows patrons to spread out on Negril’s picnic benches for hours.
Brixton. Make a left leaving the Tube and continue as the road becomes Brixton Hill. Delivery and takeaway available. No alcohol served, but you can BYOB for a £2.50 corkage charge per person. Entrees £7-12. Open M-F 5-10pm, Sa-Su 10am-10pm.
SUFI
PERSIAN $$
70 Askew Rd.
020 8834 4888
Nestled in the streets connecting Goldhawk Rd. and Uxbridge Rd. is what many locals will swear to be the best Persian food in London. It’s a small place with a nice but ultimately unmemorable façade and decor (excluding the dozens of award stickers hanging near the bottom of the window), but the delights within—namely a satisfying meal for £8—will blow away first impressions. Sample the saffron ice cream after your meal for only £3 more.
Shepherd’s Bush Market. Make a right down Uxbridge Rd. when leaving the station, then walk about 15min. and make a left down Askew Rd. You can also take Bus #207 to the beginning of Askew Rd. Starters £2-4. Entrees £7-13. Open daily noon-11pm.
NIGHTLIFE
The City of London
FABRIC
CLUB
77A Charterhouse St.
020 7336 8898
It feels like the space-time fabric is bending underneath you at London’s most famous club. Oh wait, that’s just the vibrating dance floor. The biggest contributor to this club’s legitimacy is the soundtrack: they eschew not only top 40 but more mainstream DJs like Tiësto and Paul Oakenfeld as well. The space—a renovated warehouse full of deconstructed industrial decor—is equally serious (especially compared to the fun-loving dance crowd). Look out for hidden quirks and flourishes, like 3D floor maps in the stairwells and a copy of Rubens’s Samson and Delilah presiding over the smokers’ courtyard. This being said, if you’re over 21, you’ll probably feel a bit old, as the bulk of the clientele are teenagers drinking £10 rum and cokes to their newfound clubbing freedom.
Farringdon. Turn left onto Cowcross St. and continue until you hit Charterhouse St. Cover F-Sa £15-20, Su up to £10. Get discounts by buying tickets in advance. Beer £4.50. Open F 10pm-6am, Sa 11pm-8am, Su 11pm-6am.
THE JERUSALEM TAVERN
PUB
55 Britton St.
020 7490 4281
The Jerusalem Tavern is the kind of London pub where you might be convinced you’re back in the 18th century (or turn of the BCE Jerusalem for all we know). The tavern is as bare as they come: it’s just a narrow, wooden interior without any music playing. It’s the only tavern in London to offer all of the St. Peter’s ales. These specialized brews—including the trifecta of Golden Ale, Ruby Red Ale Honey Porter, and Cream Stout—are enough to renounce your prior beer preferences. Then again, if you don’t want the walk back to seem like a Calvary trudge, we recommend multiple trips.
Farringdon. Turn left onto Cowcross St., left onto Turnmill St., right onto Benjamin St., and left onto Britton St. Pints from £3. Open M-F 11am-11pm.
THE SLAUGHTERED LAMB
PUB
34-35 Great Sutton St.
020 7253 1516
Don’t be put off by this pub’s macabre name (or the pentacle logo)—it’s merely a remnant of the district’s old meat-packin’ days. The Slaughtered Lamb feels a bit like a gigantic old gentleman’s club, with leather couches, comfy armchairs, and framed pictures around a fireplace…and a hip hop soundtrack. Downstairs, the music continues with frequent live shows and occasional comedy acts.
Barbican. Turn left onto Goswell Rd. and left onto Great Sutton St. Pints around £4. Open M-Th 11:30am-midnight, F-Sa 11:30am-1am, Su 12:30-10:30pm.
PUB
56 Farringdon Rd.
020 7253 4285
The namesake Betsey Trotwood was a colorful, man-hating character in Dickens’s David Copperfield. The pub has retained the verve of Dame Maggie Smith and done away with the sexism, so most patrons just quietly enjoy a pint of one of many cask ales. The space opens out onto the street, and sunshine streams in through the large windows, creating a comfortable lazy vibe in summer. Various events, like bluegrass shows and poetry readings, are held downstairs.
Farringdon. Turn right onto Cowcross St. and right onto Farringdon Rd. Pints from £3.50. Open M-F noon-11pm, Sa noon-11:30pm, Su noon-10:30pm.
The West End
THE BORDERLINE
CLUB
Orange Yard, off Manette St.
020 7734 5547
http://venues.meanfiddler.com/borderline/
Though Borderlineis essentially a bare basement with the same drunken dancing as you’ll discover at any London club, the all-important variable is the playlist of indie artists like Joy Division, The Smiths, The Kooks, and Vampire Weekend. The crowd is quite devoted to the music, and you can’t help but get into the spirit of things when everyone is shouting lyrics to purposely obscure songs. The club also hosts live music, for those who have the “Christopher Columbus saw it first” approach to performers (or, as a true hipster would say, Leif Erikson).
Tottenham Court Rd. Turn right onto Charing Cross Rd. and right onto Manette St. Punk on W. Student night on Th. Indie rock and Brit pop on F-Sa. Cover W-Th £5, F-Sa £7. Frequent £2 drink specials. Open W-Sa 11pm-4am.
DIRTY MARTINI
BAR, CLUB
11-12 Russell St.
07917 163 079
Martinis: the ode to gin made by James Bond and countless other debonair sirs. This club in the heart of Covent Garden does not relinquish this tradition, even though the cool, tuxedoed, cigar-smoking associations have metamorphosed into tightly dressed women and their suit jacket-less friends. Society has traded in fussiness for accessibility, and that’s great for the student traveler, as the expert mixology is a steal compared to other clubs charging the same for a lousy, too-sweet mojito.
Covent Garden. Head down James St. to the Covent Garden Piazza, turn left and go around it until you come to the corner of Russell St. Happy hour M-Th until 10pm, F-Sa until 8pm, Su all day. Cover £5 high-capacity weekend. Beer £4. Cocktails £8-9. Open M-W 5pm-1am, Th 5pm-3am, F 4pm-3am, Sa noon-3am, Su 1-11pm.
AIN’T NOTHIN’ BUT…
BAR, LIVE MUSIC
20 Kingly St.
020 7287 0514
Has your wife left you? Has your dog died? Has your life been nothing but a meaningless parade of drivel-filled observations? Well then, dear, the blues are your anthem, and in an area filled with pop hits of the later ‘00s, this R&B stalwart provides a haven for both good times and bad. Most patrons lounge around the bar, but the back room hosts live music, so you can really sink your teeth into the existential pain of your plight.
Oxford Circus. Head down Regent St., turn right onto Great Marlborough St., then right onto Kingly St. Cover £5 F-Sa after 8:30pm. Beer from £4. Open M-Th 5pm-1am, F 5pm-2:30am, Sa 3pm-2:30am, Su 3pm-midnight.
HEAVEN
CLUB, GLBT
Under the Arches, Villiers St.
020 7930 2020
www.heavennightclub-london.com
Loudly announcing that heaven is in a Tube Station is a one-way ticket to being committed. Nay, the paradise we refer to is one of London’s largest gay clubs, replete with giant video screens, a warehouse for a dance floor, and enough campy men to staff a production of La Cage Aux Folles. Mondays have “Popcorn,” a student-friendly event with good drink specials and a welcoming door policy; the music varies from hip hop to techno to classic dance tunes. Thursday through Saturday, the club is run by G-A-Y, London’s biggest GLBT party organization. Friday night brings “Camp Attacks”(with amazingly cheesy disco music) and performances by famous pop stars.
Charing Cross. Turn right from the station and head down Villiers St. The club is under the archway about halfway down. Cover £5; usually free before midnight or if you sign up on the guest list. Open M 11pm-3am, Th 11pm-3am, F-Sa 11pm-5am.
FREUD
BAR
198 Shaftesbury Ave.
020 7240 9933
Freud said in Interpretation of Dreams that dreaming of staircases was indicative of sexual suppression. Well, climb on down into your mother’s womb—er, a totally normal West End bar. The place is more Kafkaesque than Freudian, with no chaise lounges and a lot of concrete, but the drinks are clever (Slippery Nipple, anyone?), and the prices are right.
Piccadilly Circus. Turn right onto Shaftesbury Ave. Beer £3.50. Mixed drinks £5.50-7.50. Credit card min. £10. Open M-Th 11am-11pm, F-Sa 11am-1am, Su noon-10:30pm.
VILLAGE
BAR, GLBT
81 Wardour St.
020 7478 0530
Early in the evening, Village looks like just another after-work bar with a happily iridescent logo. Then the go-go dancers climb up onto their perches, and a veritable parade of attractive men—and their equally attractive flame dames—swarm in to enjoy the night (with associate flame dames as well). Throughout the week, you can expect drag queens, karaoke (Tuesdays and Wednesdays), and more.
Piccadilly Circus. Turn right onto Shaftesbury Ave. then left onto Wardour St. Cocktails £6-7. Open M-Sa 4pm-1am, Su 4-11:30pm.
Westminster
CASK
BEER HEAVEN
6 Charlwood St.
020 7630 7225
Maybe you’re not a beer person, and maybe you’re bitter about not knowing why everyone orders a “lager.” Cask is a great introduction to this expansive world of acquired taste, and would you want your first great nicotine experience to be with a pack of Lucky Strikes behind a KFC or a Cuban cigar? The beer “menu” is actually a binder full of hundreds upon hundreds of bottled beers from around the world. A couple dozen more are on tap, and they rotate the selection so they can accommodate as many rare and novel brews as possible.
Pimlico. Turn right onto Tachwood St.; Cask is on the right, at the corner with Charlwood St. Free Wi-Fi (as if you needed an excuse to spend more time here). Pints start around £4, but vary wildly from there. Open M-Sa noon-11pm, Su noon-10:30pm.
BRASS MONKEY
PUB
250 Vauxhall Bridge Rd.
020 7834 0553
Vauxhall Bridge Rd. can be a bit intimidatingly run-down as it prepares to shoot over the Thames. However, this charming, twinkly pub stands out as a solid option, especially if you’re staying in the area. It’s not a rowdy scene, and a good indicator of calm is that a decent proportion of patrons enjoy food with their drink.
Victoria. Turn right onto Vauxhall Bridge Rd. Wine £5-6. Pints around £4. Open M-Sa 11am-11pm.
THE HIDE
BAR
39-45 Bermondsey St.
020 7403 6655
The isolated elements of The Hide would hint at pretention: fancy cocktails with snarky descriptions, red velvet curtains, obscure jazz, and suited men in various state of dishevelment. However, it’s mostly a local crowd that’s just as happy with a modern concrete bar and mood lighting as an old-fashioned wooden one with fringe lamps. The cocktails are quite good: try your liver at the Parliamentary Brandy (Jensen’s Old Tom Gin, cubed sugar, Peychaud’s bitters; £9), modeled after a moonshine recipe used during one of the temperance periods.
London Bridge. Walk toward the bridge and turn right onto Tooley St., then right onto Bermondsey St. Most spirits £4. Beer from £4.80. Cocktails £9-10. Open Tu 5pm-midnight, W-Th 5pm-1am, F-Sa 5pm-2am, Su 5pm-10:30pm.
SOUTHWARK TAVERN
PUB
22 Southwark St.
020 7403 0257
You can try your hand at the certifiably hokey London Dungeon “experience,” or you can drink in Southwark Tavern’s basement—a series of converted prison cells that exceed their original charm (then again, it often seems as if half the South Bank is a prison and the other half a brothel). The ground floor is your standard warm welcome with some surprises: would you like some quail eggs, ox cheek, or edamame with that pint?
London Bridge. Exit down Borough High St.; the pub is where Southwark St. splits off. Quiz night on Tu. Pints £4. Open M-W 11am-midnight, Th-F 11am-1am, Sa 10am-1am, Su noon-midnight.
MINISTRY OF SOUND
CLUB
103 Gaunt St.
087 0060 0010
In club years, this staple of the EDM scene is ancient and has hosted world-famous DJs like Tiësto, Armin van Buuren, Afrojack, and Deadmau5 for over 20 years. Now, the scene is a mix of techno die-hards and dilettantes in Jeffrey Campbell high heels and plaid shirts that use the trance interludes to take selfies. Your music options are the main dance floor with go-go dancers, smoke hoses, and light shows; the smaller boutique floor on the second floor; the VIP lounge; and the outside patio that streams in music from the main floor.
Elephant and Castle. Exit toward the roundabout, walk down Borough High St., and turn left onto Gaunt St. Cover £13-20; £5 discount with student ID. Open F 10:30pm-6am, Sa 11pm-7am. Weekday hours vary; check the website.
South Kensington and Chelsea
THE DRAYTON ARMS
PUB
153 Old Brompton Rd.
020 7835 2301
The Drayton Arms is a aesthete’s pub, with a sun-catching wall of windows that breaks the mold of the typically dark and cloistered London joint. It’s really the perfect mix between its post code (chandeliers and leather booths) and a liberal spirit (in-house theater and a not exclusively yuppie crowd). The theater is a rarity as well, hosting five nights a week of comedy, film, and drama in the evenings.
Gloucester Rd. Turn right onto Gloucester Rd. and right onto Old Brompton Rd. Theater productions Tu-Sa. Quiz night M (£1 buy-in). Pints around £3.70. Wine £4-7. Cocktails £6-7. Open M-Sa noon-11pm, Su noon-10:30pm.
THE TROUBADOUR CLUB
LIVE MUSIC, BAR
263-267 Old Brompton Rd.
020 7370 1434
A Troubadour is a sublime thing to call an artist: it means a poet who puts lyric to music. But instead of merely a pretty name, this bar has earned its title, playing host to Bob Dylan, Joni Mitchell, Paul Simon, and Jimi Hendrix. More recently, it was the site of Adele’s first gig. The adjacent bar and cafe is intimate with coffee cups and wine glasses hanging from the ceiling and a strip adjacent to the bar packed with aspiring artists themselves.
Gloucester Rd. Turn right onto Gloucester Rd., then right onto Old Brompton Rd. Live music most nights. Poetry night every other M. Friday shows 21+. Happy hour Tu-Su 8-9pm. Cover usually £6-12. Cash only. Cafe open daily 9am-midnight. Live music M-W 8pm-midnight, Th-Sa 8pm-2am, Su 8pm-midnight.
AZTECA LATIN LOUNGE
LATIN BAR
329 King’s Rd.
020 7352 4087
Azteca is a perfect cocktail itself. Mix together sultry Latin music, giant party drinks that serve four, salsa lessons, and cheap, delicious food. Within this absurdly colorful environment, Chelsea’s residents swap chatting on bar stools with a pint in hand for shooting tequila on comfy couches.
Sloane Sq. It’s a 10-15min. walk from the station, so you can also take bus #11 or 22. Salsa lessons Tu 7:30-8:30pm. Beer from £3. Cocktails from £6. Party cocktail (serves 4) £25. Open M-Th 5pm-midnight, F-Sa 5pm-3am, Su 5pm-midnight.
THE BLACKBIRD
PUB
209 Earl’s Court Rd.
020 7835 1855
The Blackbird is your friendly neighborhood pub with all of the infrastructural necessities: long bar, lots of booths, cheap drinks, soft rock, and healthy local contingent. The food runs the gamut from roasts to British staples and is served up quick. Stop here for a calm night instead of rushing to one of the self-proclaimed “local English pubs” to the east.
Earl’s Court. Just across the road from the station, slightly to the right. Pints from £3.50. Open M-W 8:30am-11pm, Th-Sa 8:30am-11:30pm, Su 8:30am-10:30pm.
Hyde Park to Notting Hill
NOTTING HILL ARTS CLUB
CLUB
21 Notting Hill Gate
020 7460 4459
As you burst forth into the club’s urban grotto, you would never suspect its well-to-do neighborhood would condone such gritty revelry. The concrete walls reverberate hard-hitting techno as 18- to 25-year-olds kick back absinthe and dance precariously on the stage. Art installations include words projected onto the lounge couches, resulting in patrons’ smiling faces imprinted with words like “sweet sounds memory” in a new level of Instagram nostalgia. Of course, you can always just have a pint and a conversation, but with the level of visual performance around here, relaxation is achieved more through sensory overload.
Notting Hill Gate. Walking up from the subway, it is on the right side of the road between two segments of the A204 (look for the large triangular crosswalks). The door isn’t well marked, but look for the smoking area and metal fences keeping the entrance line in place. 18+, be sure to bring proof of age. Check the website beforehand for specific opening times and events. Cover varies, generally £5-8. Beer £3. Cocktails from £8. Open M-W 7pm-2am, Th 7:30pm-2am, F 7pm-2am, Sa 8pm-2am, Su 6pm-1am.
PORTOBELLO STAR
BAR
171 Portobello Rd.
020 7229 8016
The Portobello Star has gentrified itself from a old-timey, Modest Mouse “Float On” aesthetic to a yuppie affair, but the cocktails remain fearsomely good. We recommend taking a friend and splitting the strongest drink on the menu—the W11 Zombie (four types of rum, Pernod absinthe, and an exotic medley of passion fruit, grenadine, and pineapple; £15). Enjoy it as the DJ (posted at the bar with a laptop) spins pepped-up R&B and rock; take your drink to the back lounge room if the trussed-up crowd near the front starts networking too enthusiastically.
Notting Hill Gate. Take a right onto Pembridge Rd., then a left onto Portobello Rd. Cocktails £7.50-15. Open M-Th 11am-11:30pm, F-Sa 11am-12:30am, Su 11am-11:30pm.
PUB
95 Portobello Rd.
020 7229 8528
Portobello Gold is an old-fashioned pub with live music and a patronage that sings along to rock hits (and includes Bill Clinton). The front is your traditional, wood-paneled bar with pub-dwellers ranging from 18 to 80; the back is a sort of greenhouse, with candles and plants shielding patrons from prying eyes (although ears can pick up all manner of accents in this multi-culti bar). If you can wrangle it, try to snag the one table upstairs that overlooks the bar: romance personified.
Notting Hill Gate. Turn right onto Pembridge Rd., then left onto Portobello Rd. Live music Su 7pm. Pints from £3.50. Wine £4-6. Open M-Th 9am-midnight, F-Sa 9am-12:30am, Su 9am-11pm.
SUN IN SPLENDOUR
PUB
7 Portobello Rd.
020 7792 0914
As the summer solstice nears, the apex of this fun pub is its secret beer garden (which sadly closes up shop when the sun does at 9:30pm). Otherwise, take a drink in the main room bedecked with wood-latticed windows, giant mirrors, gold chandeliers, and faux-distressed Victorian wallpaper. The crowd tends towards a mixed bunch of well-worn regulars, youth, and professionals that seem to all enjoy the electronic rock soundtrack in kind.
Notting Hill Gate. Take a right onto Pembridge Rd., then a left onto Portobello Rd. Free Wi-Fi. Pints £4-6. Wine £3-6. Spirits from £3. Open M-Th noon-11pm, F 10am-midnight, Sa 9am-midnight, Su 10am-10:30pm.
Marylebone and Bloomsbury
THE SOCIAL
BAR, CLUB
5 Little Portland St.
020 7636 4992
During the evening hours, the pubs of Bloomsbury play host to clutches of students waving about their pints with well-meant frivolity. The Social is a welcome energy outlet: downstairs, hip hop and dance music blasts through the quiet oeuvre of the alley. Upstairs, the intimate bar plays Motown numbers (quirkily enough, pictures of birds à la The Audobon Society lined the walls when we visited). Weekly events include Bashment, a Jamaican dance set on Wednesdays, and Hip Hop Karaoke on Thursdays.
Oxford Circus. Turn right onto Regent St. then turn right onto Little Portland St. Live acts on the ground fl. most nights. Student cards will get you discounts on most covered nights. Cover £5-7. Pints £4-5. Cocktails £8.50. Open M-Sa noon-midnight, Th-Sa noon-1am.
PURL
BAR
50/54 Blandford St.
Designed to look like an Al Capone speakeasy—interesting if only for the fact that Britain has never prohibited alcohol—Purl caters to a posh modern crowd that’s probably never broken a nail much less someone’s legs. Sipped by patrons in the darkened, intimate labyrinth of nooks and crannies, the drinks are less a cobbling of lighter fluid and rubbing alcohol and more a creation from an MIT lab. Liquid nitrogen, ice cream, grape jelly, and candied bacon make appearances in the cocktails and work together splendidly (try the Corpse Reviver #1, which mixes grape jelly and blue cheese foam).
Bond St. Turn eft onto Oxford St. and right onto James St., which eventually turns into Thayer St. Then turn right onto Blandford St. Reservations recommended for tables; book online through the website. Cocktails £9-12. Open M-Th 5-11:30pm, F-Sa 5pm-midnight.
PUB
59 Marylebone Ln.
020 7935 3228
There are plenty of spots in London where leaning against the bar, tossing or flipping your hair with that devilish charm, and playing it cool is encouraged. Or you can do something truly spectacular and sing along with the boozy crowd to bespectacled Tony “Fingers” Pearson on the piano every Tuesday, Thursday, and Friday; have fun with old-timey hits that weren’t old-timey when the crowd was your age. Given the cheap pints and your resulting inebriation, you just might be the one belting out tunes the loudest.
Bond St. turn right onto Oxford St. and left onto Marylebone Ln. Music Tu 8:30pm, Th-F 8:30pm. Pints £3.50-4. Wine from £3. Open M-Th 11am-11pm, F-Sa 11am-midnight, Su noon-7pm.
THE FITZROY TAVERN
PUB
16A Charlotte St.
020 7580 3714
By our count, there are at least 30 “oldest” pubs in London and dozens more that had famous patrons—although Britain’s density of well-known thinkers and their personal drinking levels means that claim is a little less impressive. But the Fitzroy has some genuine history to keep the old and comedy shows to bring in the new. Dylan Thomas and George Orwell met here after work at the BBC, and the walls of the pub are lined with some hilarious memorabilia from the war (including a poster saying “We’re here for the duration, we hope” and another one with a white box in a field of black that served as directions for finding the pub in a blackout).
Goodge St. Turn left onto Tottenham Ct. Rd., left onto Tottenham St., and left onto Charlotte St. Comedy night W 8:30pm. Pints around £2.50-3. Burgers from £6. Open M-Sa 11am-11pm, Su noon-10:30pm.
SCALA
CLUB
275 Pentonville Rd.
020 7833 2022
Repurposed from a cinema, this simply cool, four-level club has seen acts from Coldplay to The Scissor Sisters to Lionel Richie. The place is popular with a younger crowd that makes its presence known on the dance floor, and the older patrons congregate more toward the bar. Both dance floors are usually packed on a club night, but leave the high heels at home, as some patrons can be a bit over exuberant.
King’s Cross St. Pancras. Head left when leaving the station. Cover varies, usually £8-16. Club nights F-Sa 10pm-4am or later. Opening hours depend on the night; check website for details.
THE ROCKET
PUB
120 Euston Rd.
020 7388 5796
This pub has shifted its clientele from primarily youngsters to a more professional/student mix. Inside, wrought iron chandeliers support multicolored light bulbs, and patrons pass barbs at each other near the warmly lit bar. Outside is a bit harsher, as the pub’s location on Euston Rd. means that traffic and pedestrians streaming from King’s Cross might put a damper on your night out with friends.
Euston. Make a left down Euston Rd. Pints around £3. Wine £3-5. Open M-W 11:30am-midnight, Th-F 11:30am-2am, Sa-Su 10am-2am.
North London
69 COLEBROOKE ROW
BAR
69 Colebrooke Row
075 4052 8593
69 Colebrooke Row’s advertising of the venue as “The Bar with No Name” sounds like a bad secondary title, yet the effort put into their mixology makes the hokeyness a bit more acceptable. Of the cocktails, we liked the “Death in Venice” (Campari with grapefruit bitters topped with prosecco). Popular among Islington yuppies and cocktail connoisseurs, the bar’s vibe is saved from pretension by the impromptu ditties played by patrons on the upright piano.
Angel. Turn right after leaving the station and stay to the right as you pass Islington Green. Then turn right onto Colebrooke Row. It’s number 69. Cocktails £9. Open M-W 5pm-midnight, Th 5pm-1am, F-Sa 5pm-2am, Su 5pm-midnight.
SLIM JIM’S LIQUOR STORE
BAR
112 Upper St.
020 7354 4364
It sounds like a convenience store that never has any cars parked in front of it, but it’s actually an American dive bar with enough bras hanging from the ceiling to clothe a feminist commune (you can add yours if you’d like). A nice selection of bourbons and beers make this a solid option even if you don’t have any particular love of rockabilly style.
Angel. Turn right and continue up Upper St. Bourbon and scotch £3-10. Pints from £3.75. Open M-W 4pm-2am, Th 4pm-3am, F-Sa noon-3am, Su noon-2am.
East London
THE BOOK CLUB
BAR, CLUB
100 Leonard St.
020 7684 8618
We don’t even want to know what a Book Club in this part of town would look like. Ironically reading Dan Brown? Commentary on how every Nicholas Sparks novel boils down to pretty people finding each other in the rain? Thankfully, this cafe/bar/lecture hall/dance club/art installation is more about how to live like F. Scott Fitzgerald than how to read him. During the week, events range from speed dating (“Are you a fan of Soviet-era film? Me too! Let’s have sex. Capitalism hates sex.”), drawing classes (“The body is merely a canvas for our pain.”), and beer pong (“Alcohol!”). Thursday through Saturday are usually reserved for dancing the depression away.
Shoreditch High St. Make a left after leaving the station, then a right onto Great Eastern St., and a left onto Leonard St. Cover varies from free to £12; on most weekends, it’s £5 after 9pm. Open M-W 8am-midnight, Th-F 8am-2am, Sa 10am-2am, Su 10am-midnight.
STRONGROOM BAR
BAR
120-124 Curtain Rd.
020 7426 5103
Did you know that in order to be a “cool” bar, you have to be in an alleyway? So goes the East London nightlife scene, young imbiber. The Strongroom makes understandably less use of its dark, sparse indoors than the umbrella tables in the space between brick buildings. The crowd is a bit older than the expected cadre of “Dalston Superstars” but has some concessions, like a great series of cocktail options and late hours during the weekend.
Shoreditch High St. Make a left after leaving the station, then a right onto Great Eastern St., and a right onto Curtain Rd. Pints around £4. Open M 9am-11pm, Tu-W 9am-midnight, Th 9am-1am, F 9am-2am, Sa noon-2am, Su noon-10pm.
CALLOOH CALLAY
BAR
65 Rivington St.
020 7739 4781
After your first time trying Callooh Callay’s cocktails, we bet you’ll jabber away to your friends about how the drinks are made of high-quality booze, are sometimes served ingramophones, and are perfectly titled for a Shoreditch crowd like “Respect Your Elders.” The Upstairs Bar isn’t Lewis Carroll-themed (e.g. you don’t have to go through the looking glass to go to the bathroom), but rather changes every six weeks from themes like “Dutch Gin House” and “Havana Nights.” The crowd tends to be a bit more upper crust than other places in the area, but the chummy bartenders create a comforting den.
Old St. Make a right down Great Eastern Rd., then a left onto Rivington St. Cocktails £9. Upstairs bar closed on M and Su. Make a table reservation if you don’t want to stand at the bar. Open M-W 6pm-midnight, Th-Su 6pm-1am.
South London
HOOTANANNY
BAR, CONCERT VENUE
95 Effra Rd.
020 7737 7273
Hootananny during the day is a bit like what we’d imagine the downtime bar for circus workers would be. For example, there are the swaths of fabric draped big top-style in the back alcove, the red velvet booths, the pool tables, and the celebratory tone that the bright red house brings to the drab surrounding area—it’s as if something magical could happen anytime. Well, it is magical, as Hootananny hosts musicians and DJs playing everything from death disco to Central Asian folk melodies—you can almost feel the East End’s envy of authenticity.
Brixton. Make a left as you exit the station and continue on Effra Rd. as it forks off. 21+. Most shows are free; occasional £5 cover. Shows W-Su start at 8 or 9pm. Beer from £3.80. Pub open M-W 3pm-midnight, Th 3pm-2am, F 3pm-3am, Sa noon-3am, Su noon-midnight. Hours vary
West London
DOVE
PUB
19 Upper Mall
020 8748 9474
The only thing recognizing the existence of this bar to a Ulysses of pub crawls is an arrow pointing into an alleyway near the Thames. Through the stone walls lies the best riverside pub for the cheapest prices you’re going to find in the city. Another bonus is the fact that only locals frequent the Dove, and pints and comforting pub grub litters the tables as the conversation continues into the night. In the summer, sit out on the river patio and try to snag a set in the upper balcony.
Ravenscourt Park. Make a left down Ravenscourt Rd., cross King St. (you’ll need to go under the road in the subway) onto Rivercourt Rd., and make a left onto Upper Mall. Pints around £4. Open M-Sa 11am-11pm, Su noon-10:30pm.
ARTS AND CULTURE
For both cultural connoisseur and dilettante, London offers a truly terrifying spectrum of performance art. With Shakespeare’s word-smithing running through all of the English language, the Globe Theatre pays due homage to the dramatic poet. The theater scene then spreads to include musicals and their revivals, off-beat British comedies, experimental works, and some celebrity showcases (staffed by a cadre of British actors whose stage presence eclipses the film roles for which they’re generally known). But, of course, it’s not all sitting in a dark auditorium in regulation cocktail attire, for Britain is also known for its incredible rock music tradition. British singers and bands almost always begin their journey to stardom in the London circuit of cafes and small performance venues. It’s this divide between centuries-old and seconds-old art that approximates a city—with its reliance on the past and the contrarian reaction against it fighting each other on the battlefield of art.
Theater
Ah, “theatre” (thee-ya-tah) in London. The city is renowned for its affordable performances—tickets for big musicals in the West End can be had for as little as £25, a pittance compared to the $100 tickets sold on Broadway. In the West End, London’s main theater district, you’ll find big musicals that stay in residence at a single theater for decades. Other theaters put on more cutting-edge works. Many pubs have live performance spaces where theater groups rehearse and perform for audiences that, after a few pints, tend to find the second act more confusing than the first. Some churches, like St. Paul’s in Covent Garden, host shows during the summer. Only buy discounted tickets from booths with a circle and check mark symbol that says STAR on it; this stands for the Society of Tickets Agents and Retailers, and it vouches for the legitimacy of a discount booth.
ROYAL COURT THEATRE
SOUTH KENSINGTON AND CHELSEA
Sloane Sq.
020 7565 5000
The Royal Court has built its reputation as the antidote to all the orchestral swoons and celebrity cameos sweeping through the West End. The Royal Court’s 1956 production of John Osborne’s Look Back in Anger (not to be confused with the Oasis song) is credited with single-handedly launching modern British drama. Royal is primarily writers’ theater, purveying high-minded works for audiences that will appreciate them.
Sloane Sq. Tickets M £10, Tu-Sa £12-28. Student discounts available on day of performance. Box office open M-F 10am-6pm or until the doors open, Sa 10am-curtain (if there’s a performance).
THE NATIONAL THEATRE
THE SOUTH BANK
Belvedere Rd.
020 7452 3400
Okay, it looks a bit like a Kafkaesque prison, especially when the brutalist structure displays Helvetica advertisements for £12 Travelex tickets that can be seen from the other side of the river. Prison structure aside, the National Theatre’s multiple stages host new and classic British drama, including many premieres, revived lost classics from around the world, and a standard repertoire of Chekhov and Ibsen.
Waterloo. Turn right onto York Rd. and left onto Waterloo Rd. Tickets £12-44. Box office open M-Sa 9:30am-8pm, Su noon-6pm.
THE OLD VIC
SOUTH LONDON
The Cut
0844 871 7628
This famous, stately theater was built in 1818 and has hosted the likes of Ralph Richardson and Laurence Olivier. Though showcasing a huge range of styles, the Old Vic focuses on the classics, including star-studded Shakespeare productions. Kevin Spacey—when he’s not playing men in mid-life crises—serves as artistic director (and has since 2003).
Southwark. Turn right onto The Cut. Tickets £11-52. Box office open M-Sa 10am-7pm on show days, 10am-6pm on non-show days.
SHAKESPEARE’S GLOBE
THE SOUTH BANK
21 New Globe Walk
020 7401 9919
There are definitely two tribes that attend Globe Performances: groundlings and non-groundlings. Since the Globe is a near replica of the original theater, an open roof and standing area are available for said “groundlings.” An experience of being so close to the actors that you can see the spit fly from their perfectly dictating mouths, this special opportunity can be yours for £5. The other seats are spread across three semi-circled tiers around the stage, which can become fairly uncomfortable if you don’t shell out for a cushion as well. The Globe stages works not only by the Bard, but also two new plays per season. Understandably for an open-air theater, the season runs from Apr-Oct, although the recently opened Sam Wanamaker Playhouse hosts performances year-round.
Southwark. Turn left onto Blackfriars Rd., right onto Southwark St., left onto Great Guildford St., right onto Park St., then left onto New Globe Walk. Standing £5; seats £15-35, under 18 £12-32. Box office open M-Sa 10am-8pm, Su 10am-7pm.
London is teeming with traditional cinemas, the most dominant of which are Cineworld (www.cineworld.co.uk) and Odeon (www.odeon.co.uk). But the best way to enjoy a film is in one of the hip repertory or luxury cinemas like Everyman or Curzon. Time Out publishes showtimes, as does www.viewlondon.co.uk.
BFI SOUTHBANK AND IMAX
SOUTH BANK
Belvedere Rd.
020 7928 3232
There are two reasons the BFI is awesome. First, it has the BFI Southbank, which is a champagne-drinking, bougie madhouse hidden under Waterloo Bridge. It showcases everything from early premieres to challenging foreign works and runs themed “seasons” that focus on the work of a particular director, cinematographer, or actor. Also, their Mediatheque is free and allows you to privately view films from their archives. The second reason is that the largest screen in all of Britain—the BFI IMAX—is just down the street, meaning you can see your favorite art house film and then catch the latest rock-’em-sock-’em comic book adaptation in a sensory overload chamber of win.
Waterloo. Follow the signs to either BFI Southbank (along the river) or the IMAX theater (so large you can’t miss it). Note: you must go underground to reach the IMAX theater. Several exits spin off from it like wheel spokes. £11, concessions £8.50, matinee £6. Open daily 11am-11pm. Mediatech open Tu-F noon-8pm, Sa-Su 12:30-8:30pm.
Comedy
The English are famous for their dry, sophisticated, and sometimes ridiculous (“We are the knights who say ‘Ni!’”) sense of humor. This humor thrives in the stand-up and sketch comedy clubs throughout the city. Check Time Out for listings, and be warned that the city virtually empties of comedians come August, when it’s Fringe Festival time in Edinburgh.
COMEDY STORE
THE WEST END
1A Oxendon St.
0844 871 7699
Hands-down the most famous comedy venue in London, the Comedy Store made a name for itself in the ’80s as a home for up-and-coming comedians like Jennifer Saunders, Dawn French, and Mike Myers (who was one of the founding members). Nowadays, visiting comics perform Thursday through Saturday, and the resident sketch-comedy team takes the stage on Wednesdays and Sundays. Tuesdays have stand-up on recent topical events, while the last Monday of the month hosts would-be comedians who are either encouraged or heckled by the audience. Famous comedians like Eddie Izzard have been known to pop in from time to time for impromptu performances.
Piccadilly Circus. Turn left onto Coventry, then right onto Oxendon. Tickets £14-20. Box office open M-Th 6:30-9:30pm, F-Sa 6:30pm-1:15am, Su 6:30-9:30pm. Doors open daily 6:30pm. Shows usually 8 and 11pm.
Pop and Rock
Clubs are expensive, and many pubs close at 11pm. Especially given the current economic climate, fewer young people are willing to shell out £10-15 to get into a club, especially since beers inside cost an additional £4-5 apiece. To find the heart of London’s nightlife, you have to scratch beyond the pub-and-club surface and head into the darkened basements of bars and seismically loud music clubs. With a history of homegrown musical talent—including The Rolling Stones, Radiohead, and The Clash, all of the bands from the infamous “British Invasion,” and many of the best ‘90s pop groups—London’s fantastic music scene goes way back. Today, it has all of the big name acts you’d expect a major city to draw, in addition to an underground focus on indie rock and a surprisingly ample dose of folk and blues.
NORTH LONDON
1A Camden High St.
0870 432 5527
Koko’s isn’t a typical rock and roll venue. Originally a theater, then a cinema, then one of the BBC’s first broadcasting locations, and then the famous Camden Palace Nightclub, Koko holds a 110-year history within its music-soaked red walls and gilded balconies. Bringing in mostly big-name indie acts, along with some pop and rock acts (they’ve had everyone from Madonna to Usher to Justice), Koko is one of the premier venues in London. It also hosts an indie night with DJs and dancing on Friday.
Mornington Crescent. Turn right onto Hampstead Rd. Koko is on the right. Tickets sold online. Concerts £10-30. Beer £3.50-4. Cash only for in-person purchases. Box office open M-Th noon-4pm, F noon-5pm.
BORDERLINE
THE WEST END
Orange Yard, off Manette St.
020 7734 5547
http://venues.meanfiddler.com/borderline/
This simple venue (which is also a fantastic club) lacks the outlandish Art Deco trappings of other London concert halls, but it oozes the spirit of rock and roll from every beer-soaked wall and ear-blowing speaker. Big-name artists often play the Borderline when starting solo careers. Townes Van Zandt played his last show here; Eddie Vedder, Jeff Buckley, and Rilo Kiley have played here; and Spinal Tap performed here right after the movie came out. The amps go up to 11, the music’s piping hot, and the location is prime.
Tottenham Court Rd. Turn right onto Charing Cross Rd., and right onto Manette St. Tickets £3-30. Doors open daily 7pm. Tickets available at the Jazz Cafe box office M-Sa 10:30am-5:30pm.
HMV APOLLO
WEST LONDON
15 Queen Caroline St.
020 8563 3800
Like many of the big, architecturally stunning venues in London, the Art Deco HMV Apollo used to be a cinema. It was originally called the Hammersmith Odeon and was the site of Bruce Springsteen’s 1975 concert film. It’s also hosted big acts like Oasis, R.E.M., Elton John, the Rolling Stones, and even the Beatles.
Hammersmith. Apollo is opposite the Broadway Shopping Centre. There are plenty of signs leading to it. Call 08448 44 47 48 for tickets. Ticket prices vary; check online for more info. Box office open on performance days 4pm-start of the show.
O2 ACADEMY BRIXTON
SOUTH LONDON
211 Stockwell Rd.
020 7771 3000
Home to Europe’s largest fixed stage, the O2 Academy Brixton’s set list is rife with the big names of our generation—past acts include MGMT, Morrissey, Pavement, LCD Soundsystem, and Wiz Khalifa. They also occasionally host club nights. You can also check the lineups at the other O2 Academies in Shepherd’s Bush and Islington.
Brixton. Turn right onto Brixton Rd. and left onto Stockwell Rd. Ticket prices vary, generally £20-35. Pints £4. Bar cash only. Box office opens 2hr. before doors on gig nights.
Classical Music
ROYAL OPERA HOUSE
THE WEST END
Bow St.
020 7304 4000
Admittedly, the glorious glass façade of the Royal Opera House makes it look like a train station (albeit a nice one). However, the only tracks running out of this Opera House are world-class arias. Tickets go on sale about two months before performances, and it’s a good idea to book early. Or you can wait for standby tickets, which are offered 4hr. before performances for half price and are only £15 for students. The ROH also sponsors free outdoor film screenings. For information on dance performances at the ROH, see Dance.
Covent Garden. Turn right onto Long Acre, then right onto Bow St. Tickets £4-150. Box office open M-Sa 10am-8pm.
THE LONDON COLISEUM
THE WEST END
33 St. Martin’s Ln.
0871 472 0600
Home to the English National Opera, the London Coliseum showcases new, cutting-edge ballet and opera. They also perform unique reworkings of classic opera productions, like a version of Donizetti’s L’Elisird’ Amore set in a 1950s diner.
Charing Cross. Walk toward Trafalger Sq. on Duncannon St., turn right at the square onto St. Martin’s Pl., and St. Martin’s Ln. splits off to the right. Sometimes students and other concessions can get discounted tickets 3hr. before the performance. Tickets £15-90. Box office open M-Sa 10am-8pm on performance days, 10am-6pm on non-performance days.
Jazz
RONNIE SCOTT’S
WEST END
47 Frith St.
020 7439 0747
Ronnie Scott’s has been defining “hip” in Soho for the last 51 years. It was the first British club to host American jazz artists, and everyone from Chick Corea to Tom Waits (ok, not jazz, but who’s complaining?) has played here. The venue is all flickering candlelight and dulcet reds and blues. Black-and-white photos of jazz giants line the walls, and a diverse crowd imbibes cocktail creations like Jazz Medicine (Jägermeister, sloe gin, Dubonnet, fresh blackberries, and angostura bitters). Really, it’s medicine to recover from the snooty expressions of West End clubbers that make them look like they’ve just been ill.
Tottenham Court Rd. Turn onto Oxford St. with your back to Tottenham Court Rd., then turn left onto Soho St., right into the square, and right onto Frith St. Cover £10, more for big acts. Cocktails £8.50-9. Open M-Sa 6pm-3am, Su noon-4pm and 6:30pm-midnight. Box office open M-F 10am-6pm, Sa noon-5pm.
SHOPPING
London is one vital quarter of the “Paris, New York, Tokyo, London” list that most major designers plaster on their store windows. Of course, most European capital high streets have some mix of Valentino, Burberry, and Hermes, so we’ll skip to the singular: Harrods and Harvey Nichols. These megalithic department stores cater to the upper classes (the royal classes are more the custom-made type). It’s not all for McQueen and the Queen, though—Soho is full of vintage clothing stores and independent record shops. The East End (when not tacitly ignoring its Urban Outfitters) is a reliable source of fun boutiques. As the eponymous movie showcases, Notting Hill has a gauntlet of secondhand shops. And for those who can’t break in a city without scouring a bookstore, London has a litany of quirky independent retailers that round out the major chains like Waterstone’s and Daunt.
Bookstores
JOHN SANDOE BOOKS
SOUTH KENSINGTON AND CHELSEA
10 Blacklands Terr.
020 7589 9473
Undaunted by his father’s vocal disapproval, John Sandoe founded this independent bookstore in 1957, and the bohemian writerly crowd of Chelsea adored it. Today, besides the modish, pretty covers that are hand-selected by edition, the store retains old-fashioned charm antithetical to the somewhat sterile displays at Waterstone’s. Books are piled up on the sides of the staircase, moving shelves in the back leave more space for books, and the staff have read almost every title in stock.
Sloane Sq. Exit the Tube and go straight down Sloane Sq. Veer left onto King’s Rd., and turn right at Blacklands Terr. Open M-Tu 9:30am-5:30pm, W 9:30am-7:30pm, Th-Sa 9:30am-5:30pm, Su noon-6pm.
SKOOB
MARYLEBONE AND BLOOMSBURY
66 The Brunswick, off Marchmont St.
020 7278 8760
Evol: a palindromic ode to this secondhand bookstore that lionizes the written word. Amid the Brunswick complex—a series of stores posher than the next—walk down Skoob’s stairs and prepare to be confronted with an astoundingly complete collection (unlike some secondhand bookstores, where there are only 10 copies of Wuthering Heights because no one liked it). Whether travel, science fiction, crime fiction, literary criticism, poetry or mathematics beckons to your sensibilities, expect to walk out pounds lighter and heavier.
Russell Sq. Turn right and then left up Marmont St. Skoob is at the far end of Brunswick, on the right. Open M-Sa 10:30am-8pm, Su 10:30am-6pm.
Music
MUSIC AND VIDEO EXCHANGE
HYDE PARK TO NOTTING HILL
42 Notting Hill Gate
020 7221 2793
Music and Video Exchange will provide hours (if not days) of entertainment to any audiophile. The staff engage in constant High Fidelity-esque conversations and practically ooze musical knowledge, while customers browse through vinyl, CDs, and cassettes in the bargain area. Upstairs in the rarities section, you can find anything from a £12 original vinyl of the Rolling Stones’s Get Yer Ya-Ya’s Out! to the original German sleeve for the Beatles’s Let it Be. Customers can trade their own stuff in exchange for cash or—in a move betraying MVE’s cold-hearted understanding of a music-lover’s brain—twice the cash amount in store vouchers.
Notting Hill Gate. Walk out of the south entrance of the Tube and go down Notting Hill Gate. Open daily 10am-8pm.
SISTER RAY
THE WEST END
34-35 Berwick St.
020 7734 3297
An old-school record shop of the best kind, Sister Ray’s stellar staff is adept at creating musical matches made in heaven. Hip, cheap books about music line the check-out counter, and listening stations are located throughout the store. And when they’re not selling £500 special edition LPs, the prices are quite cheap. The store also buys, so if you want to sell your classic punk records to fund the next leg of your vacation, this is the place for you.
Tottenham Court Rd. Turn left onto Oxford St., left onto Wardour St., and left onto Berwick St. Open M-Sa 10am-8pm, Su noon-6pm.
THE SCHOTT MUSIC SHOP
THE WEST END
48 Great Marlborough St.
020 7292 6090
Opened in 1857, Schott is the oldest sheet music shop in London. This quiet, spacious store sells everything from the Beatles to Bartók. The expert staff is the type that knows not only all of the pieces but also different recordings and can help recommend the best. Especially notable for music-starved travelers are the three practice rooms beneath the shop (each with a baby grand Steinway) available to rent by the hour.
Oxford Circus. Turn left onto Regent St. and left onto Great Marlborough St. 10% student discount on print music. Practice rooms £10 per hr. before noon, £12 per hr. noon-6pm, £15 per hr. after 6pm. Open M-F 10am-6:30pm, Sa 10am-6pm.
BOROUGH MARKET
THE SOUTH BANK
Southwark St.
Even though the advent of globalization has removed any excuse for horrible British food, it’s still a stereotype that proves true. And if you come from a culture where fresh produce is taken for granted (basically any other culture), Borough Market is your gateway ticket to fresh French cheeses, English strawberries that wouldn’t be caught dead in a Tesco’s, and baked goods that were made for high tea. You can spend days (three per week to be precise) browsing the stalls, or you can pick the “I’m feeling lucky” option and take a break at one of the cafes and restaurants that share the space.
London Bridge. Exit the Tube and walk down Southwark St. away from the river. The market is on the right, starting where Southwark St. and Borough High St. split off. Open Th 11am-5pm, F noon-6pm, Sa 8am-5pm.
Department Stores
HARRODS
SOUTH KENSINGSTON AND CHELSEA
87-135 Brompton Rd.
020 7730 1234
Pick your favorite trappings of capitalism. You can choose spectacle—the sight of thousands of tourists and the upper classes looking at the soles of Christian Louboutins and slipping on Helmut Lang. Or perhaps status symbols would suffice, for what will make you evolutionarily desirable more than casually buying a Patek Phillipe? As they say, you just hold onto it for the next generation. Let’s be real, though: unless you’re a mogul/celebrity/smuggler, it’s going to be the awesome food section, with rooms devoted to chocolate, unpronounceable wine, tea, etc., that seems attainable (and you get to eat away the pain of poverty).
Knightsbride. Take the Harrods exit. Open M-Sa 10am-8pm, Su 11:30am-6pm.
ESSENTIALS
Practicalities
For all the hostels, cafes, museums, and bars we list, we know some of the most important places you visit during your trip might actually be more mundane. Whether it’s a tourist office, free Wi-Fi hotspot, or post office, these practicalities are vital to a successful trip, and you’ll find all you need right here.
• TOURIST OFFICES: The main central tourist office in London is the Britain and London Visitor Centre (BLVC). (1 Regent St. www.visitbritain.com Piccadilly Circus. Open Apr-Sept M 9:30am-6pm, Tu-F 9am-6:30pm, Sa-Su 10am-4pm; Oct-Mar M 9:30am-6:30pm, Tu-F 9am-6pm, Sa-Su 10am-4pm.) Also useful is the London Information Centre. (Leicester Sq. 020 7292 2333 www.londoninformationcentre.com Leicester Sq. Open daily 8am-midnight.)
• TOURS: Original London Walks offers walking tours with themes like “Jack the Ripper” and “Harry Potter.” (020 7624 9255 www.walks.com £9, students and over 65 £7.)
• CURRENCY EXCHANGE: Thomas Cook. (30 St James’s St. 084 5308 9570 Open M-Tu 10am-5:30pm, Th-F 10am-5:50pm.)
• CREDIT CARD SERVICES: American Express (www.amextravelresources.com) has locations at 78 Brompton Rd. (084 4406 0046 Knightsbridge. Open M-Tu 9am-5:30pm, W 9:30am-5:30pm, Th-F 9am-5:30pm, Sa 9am-4pm) and 30-31 Haymarket. (084 4406 0044 Piccadilly Circus. Open M-F 9am-5:30pm.)
• GLBT RESOURCES: The official GLBT Tourist office offers information on everything from saunas to theater discounts. (25 Frith St. www.gaytouristoffice.co.uk Leicester Sq.) Boyz (www.boyz.co.uk) lists gay events in London as well as an online version of its magazine. Gingerbeer (www.gingerbeer.co.uk) is a guide for lesbian and bisexual women with events listings. Time Out London’s magazine and website (www.timeout.com/london) also provide a good overview of the city’s GLBT establishments and the city in general.
• TICKET OFFICES: Albermarle of London agency provides official tickets for all major West End theater productions. Book tickets via web, phone, or visiting the office. (5th fl., Medius House, 63-69 New Oxford St. 020 7379 1357 www.albemarle-london.com Open M-F 8am-8:30pm, Sa 8:30am-8pm, Su 10am-6pm.)
• INTERNET: Wi-Fi abounds in this technologically advanced city. Most cafes provide internet access. Chains like Starbucks (www.starbucks.co.uk) and McDonald’s (www.mcdonalds.co.uk) almost always have free Wi-Fi. Other chains with Wi-Fi include the Coffee Republic (www.coffeerepublic.co.uk), Wetherspoon (www.jdwetherspoon.co.uk), Pret a Manger (www.pret.com), COSTA (www.costa.co.uk), and Caffé Nero (www.caffenero.co.uk). Public areas also have Wi-Fi. The area between Upper Street and Holloway Road, also known as The Technology Mile, is the longest stretch of free internet in the city.
• POST OFFICES: Trafalgar Square Post Office. (24-28 William IV St. 020 7484 9305 Charing Cross. Open M 8:30am-6:30pm, Tu 9:15am-6:30pm, W-F 8:30am-6:30pm, Sa 9am-5:30pm.)
Emergency
• EMERGENCY NUMBER: 999.
• POLICE: City of London Police. (37 Wood St. 020 7601 2455 Open M-F 7:30am-7:30pm.) Metropolitan Police. (030 0123 1212)
• RAPE CRISIS CENTER: Solace. (136 Royal College St. 0808 802 5565 www.rapecrisis.org.uk)
• HOSPITALS/MEDICAL SERVICES: St. Thomas’ Hospital. (Westminster Bridge Rd. 020 7188 7188) Royal Free Hospital. (Pond St. 020 7794 0500) Charing Cross Hospital. (Fulham Palace Rd. 020 3311 1234) University College Hospital. (235 Euston Rd. 0845 155 5000)
Getting There
By Plane
London’s main airport is Heathrow (LHR 0844 335 1801 www.heathrowairport.com), commonly regarded as one of the world’s busiest airports. The cheapest way to get from Heathrow to central London is on the Tube. The two Tube stations servicing Heathrow form a loop at the end of the Piccadilly line, which runs to central London. ( 1hr.; every 5min. M-Sa 5am-11:54pm, Su 5:46am-10:37pm.) Heathrow Express (084 5600 1515 www.heathrowexpress.com) runs between Heathrow and Paddington station four times per hour. The trip is significantly shorter (though comparably pricier) than many of the alternatives, clocking in at around 15-20min. ( £20 when purchased online, £25 from station. 1st train departs daily around 5:10am.) The Heathrow Connect also runs to Paddington but is cheaper and takes longer, since it makes five stops on the way to and from the airport. There are two trains per hour, and the trip takes about 25min.
The National Express bus (08717 818 178 www.nationalexpress.com) runs between Victoria Coach Station and Heathrow three times per hour. Though cheap and often simpler than convoluted Underground trips, the buses are subject to the travails of London traffic. Posing a similar traffic threat, taxis from the airport to Victoria cost around £60 and take around 45min. In short, they aren’t worth it.