Greece is a land where marble comes standard issue, circle-dancing and drinking until daybreak are time-tested rites of summer, and the past is inescapable. Tourists flock to hear the whispers of long-dead statesmen and playwrights echoing off the magnificent ruins of ancient civilizations. At the center of Greece’s past and present is Athens. Though hemp-wearing backpackers and fanny pack-laden tourists have replaced the chiton-robed philosophers of the past, Athens maintains its position as a cultural hub of the Mediterranean. After centuries of foreign domination, Athens is now a world-class international capital, where the past and present sit comfortably side by side. It is also the gateway to the sun-drenched Cyclades, defined by white and blue stucco buildings, notorious nightlife, and fabulous beaches. Mix some hangovers with all your history by heading to Mykonos and Ios, then check in on Santorini’s world-famous sunsets and peaceful mountain villages. They’re just a short ferry ride away. Even with all those thousands of years of history, Greece remains constantly dynamic, and you’ll always find something new to discover in this ancient land.
greatest hits
• CHEAP EATS. Eat souvlaki in Monastiraki Square in Athens. It’s the most touristy fun you’ll have for less than €2.
• LIFE’S A BEACH. Party until dawn at the beach clubs in Mykonos (#someregrets when taking a ferry the next morning).
• KICKIN’ IT OLD SCHOOL. Explore Ano Poli in Thessaloniki. So vintage.
student life
If you’re planning on heading to the Agora to make new friends, you’re about 2600 years too late. Instead, go to Athens’s Exarhia neighborhood, the hub of its student life. You can almost always find young people there, though the ’hood can be kind of rough. In the summer, though, the young folk clear out of Athens and head for the islands. While these are hardly centers of learning (who could bring themselves to study amid all their beauty?), they are where you’ll find everyone your age. The (very slightly) tamer option is Mykonos, where wild partying still goes down every night in the summer. Young people go hard and go often in Greece, so brace yourself for a wild trip.
Welcome to Athens, a city as old as Western Civilization but where the Acropolis towers over streets claimed by the youth and covered with graffiti. With so much history, so many ruins, and so many sculptures that can be seen just about everywhere (including the train stations), it’s easy to get lost in the vastness of time and space in Athens. But you—you lucky bastard—have us as a guide. Don’t let the ruins build up your entire trip. Athens is full of history, but it’s a bustling city that’s very much part of this century as well. Be sure to check out the Agora, the ancient marketplace of the Athenians, but don’t forget about Monastriaki, the marketplace for today’s locals. A vibrant cultural city, the symbolic and literal center of Athens stands at Syntagma Square. Leading straight into it is Ermou, the main crowded shopping street with a pretty cool Byzantine church, too. Walk west and you’ll stumble into the old city of Plaka, Acropolis included. Head down Adrianou, and you’ll get to Athens’s flea market and souvlaki heaven of Monastiraki. On the other side of Syntagma is high society (literally and figuratively) in Kolonaki, the poshest neighborhood in Athens. Keep heading that way, though, and you’ll reach the young, gritty, and raw Exarhia. The furthest neighborhood is Pagrati, with far more residential leanings. You’ll have a hard time finding a map that covers it all and a harder time embracing it all yourself. But it’s a city where Socrates and Aristotle strolled, democracy was born, and you’ve just arrived. So let’s go.
SIGHTS
All things ancient. With a cool mountain and flea market thrown in.
ACROPOLIS
HISTORICAL SITE
Entrance on Dionysiou Areopagitou
210 321 41 72
It’s the Acropolis. Of course you’re going to stumble across it. Whether on a Parthenon T-shirt in a Plaka souvenir store or from the rooftop lounge of your hostel, this is the image that defines Athens.
So what exactly is the Acropolis? A rocky hill. Okay, it’s more than that. Originally a political center during the Mycenaean times (15-12th centuries BCE), in the 8th century, the Athenians got a grand ol’ idea to build a temple to their patron goddess (and namesake), Athena, there. Thus, the Hekatompedon was made. Never heard of it? No worries. It wasn’t that great. So they built a new temple to Athena, now known as the Old Temple, 50 years later. In 500 BCE though, the Persians came through (think 300 except less homophobic) and sacked Athens, burning down the city and the Acropolis. But have no fear, in Athens’s Golden Age under Pericles (450-429 BCE), the Acropolis was remade starting with work on the gorgeous Parthenon, which is, yes, another temple to Athena.
After the 4th century CE, though, the Parthenon underwent a wild phase of promiscuity. Becoming everything from a Christian Orthodox church to a Catholic church to a mosque to storage for gunpowder (classy!), in 1687, it blew up. No one saw that coming. In the carnage left, Lord Elgin, a British ambassador, did whatever it is ambassadors do, which in this case was help himself to some gorgeous sculptures from the Parthenon, which are currently in the British Museum. What’s left is the Parthenon today.
But enough history. It’s time to get up close and personal with the Acropolis. Bring good walking shoes if you’re heading up. You don’t see the Acropolis from everywhere just because it’s famous. It’s also kinda high up and slippery as all get out in some places. Way to go, marble. Still, hike up to the tickets office, pay that €12 entrance fee, and prepare to be amazed.
The most prominent feature is, of course, the Parthenon. But don’t forget to check out the gorgeous panoramas of Athens as you climb up. Under extreme renovation right now, the Parthenon has seen better days but still stands to impress. Built under the guidance of Phidias and designed by Iktinos, it took nine years to complete this masterpiece. Though Doric in structure, it still has Ionic features. The Doric metopes, or friezes, along the outer colonnade depict showdowns between humans and centaurs, Amazons, and giants (oh my!). The Ionic pediments showed the birth of Athena and the contest between Athena and Poseidon. Though the Parthenon may seem like a perfectly straight and strict building, approach it and you’ll notice the curves of the columns that give the building more movement, more life.
If you look to the left of the Parthenon, you’ll see the Erechtheion, which turns heads thanks to its lovely lady columns, or if you wanna talk nerdy, caryatid columns. Built during the Peloponnesian War, it’s named after a hero Poseidon done fucked up after he lost the contest for Athens. So naturally, it is a temple dedicated to Athena and Poseidon. It seems to have been appeasing enough.
As you walked in to see the showstopper Parthenon, you may have noticed some columns and a pile of rubble. Typical Athens. But this here was the Propylaea, or the gateway to the Acropolis. Never really completed, it’s doomed to be an unfinished symphony here. On its right stands the Temple of Athena Nike, which is a temple to… Athena! Shocking.
After you leave such great heights, head down to the right of the Acropolis’s main entrance to check out the Theater of Dionysus. God of drunkenness, revelry, and last Friday nights throughout history, Dionysus also happens to be the god of theater. Many greats like Sophocles and Euripides had plays performed here, and it continues to function as a theater.
And there you have it. The Acropolis. As you descend, don’t feel sad. You’ll see it about 100 more times before you leave Athens. And somehow, you’ll never get tired of it. Love works in mysterious ways.
Admission €12, EU students and seniors €6. 
Open daily 8am-8pm.
ACROPOLIS MUSEUM
MUSEUM
15 Dionysiou Areopagitou St.
21 0900 0900
Sleek, modern, air-conditioned. Not the first words that come to mind when you’re thinking about the Acropolis (and really, when are you not thinking about it?). But head over to the Acropolis Museum and all that can be changed. A gorgeous new museum dedicated to all things Acropolesque, this may or may not be a huge middle finger to the British wankers who refused to return the “borrowed” Elgin Marbles until Athens had a proper place to exhibit them. But regardless, it stands as an impressive sight on its own.
The metallic black and silver color scheme, the enormous TVs, and the just-for-kicks iPads don’t exactly scream, “Everything here existed before the last time you got laid!” but don’t let that deceive you. Even as you make your way to the entrance, take a look down at the transparent floors that reveal the archaeological excavation happening below your feet. Admire the parts that are completely exposed and gaze at the wealth of coins in an ancient wishing well.
After the excitement of getting your ticket, you’ll walk into a lobby of small-scale reconstructions of the Parthenon and a large TV screen showing whimsical animations of ancient Greek sculptures dancing around. Though probably meant for children, it will certainly also amuse easily distracted Let’s Go writers and visitors who are high for a good 10min. The first floor of the museum is dedicated mainly to beautiful works of pottery and other votive offerings to the slopes of the Acropolis, where temples to Asclepius (the god of fixing your health after one too many amphorae of wine) and the nymphs used to exist. Head up to the second floor and you’ll see gorgeous reconstructions of pediment structures that are a prime example of why Greek statues stopped having archaic smiles. Walk through the columned halls that make you feel like you’re actually somewhere ancient and spend some time looking at the wealth of sculptures here. Shout outs go to a votive plaque by Megakles, which humbly says, “Megakles is good looking,” and to the kouroi and korai, statues of young men and women that have some of the finest asses to be seen.
ATHENS BACKPACKERS
HOSTEL $$
12 Makri Street
21 0922 4044
Not called Athens’s party hostel for nothing. With Daft Punk blasting at reception on a Wednesday night and a free ouzo shot when you first arrive, anyone staying here will remember it fondly.
The rooms are fairly standard. As with most hostels, there are beds. There are bathrooms. The location is right by the Acropolis metro stop, and yes, right by the Acropolis. It makes for great rooftop selfies, but the area can get touristy. What really sets this hostel apart is the lively, young crowd that gathers. Full of college students, recent grads, and the occasional young at heart, the beds in this hostel are not used until 4am on many nights. But paying the affordable €25 a night for a bed is still worth it.
If you can make it to breakfast from 7:30-9:30am, there are bread rolls and eggs to be had in the kitchen. With no lockout and no curfew, though, there’s no shame in sleeping the hell out of that morning. You can spend your evenings trying to turn up at the gorgeous Sky Bar which offers a beautiful view of the Acropolis …but only until 11pm when it closes. Afterwards, make your way out to Plaka and try to find Athens’s nightlife, or since you’re already surrounded by a party crowd, make your own.
Apart from offering great company, Athens Backpackers also has daily walking tours of the cities and relatively cheap excursions to surrounding cities and ancient sites such as Delphi, Marathon, and Mycenae. So whether you’re looking for a bed right by the Parthenon or just want to get wasted, let your backpacks spend the night here. You won’t regret it.
Dorms €25-28. Doubles €40-45. Triples €30. Check in 2pm. Check out 10am. Reception 24hr.
STUDENT AND TRAVELLER’S INN
INN $$
16 Kydathineon
21 0324 4808
Are you a student? Are you a traveller? Then goddamn you are so inn here. Student and Travellers Inn is a great place to stay if you want decently priced rooms in the heart of Plaka and only wifi in select areas near reception.
Okay, but wifi issues aside, it’s a clean, friendly dorm. Rooms are a little cramped but the air conditioning keeps everything pretty chill. Bathrooms are mostly not ensuite but kept spotless and the showers have enough water pressure that you might actually be able to wash your hair which is pretty ballin. The staff are kind here, there are plenty of mirrors in the hallways so you can always check yourself out, and it’s only a few minutes walk from Syntagma and the Acropolis.
Though not the party hostel that Athens Backpackers has a reputation for, this is another young, social hostel with great people. The garden area not only has Wi-Fi but a lively social scene with a TV playing terribly wonderful movies, students throwing back a couple beers, and a stray cat who knows no boundaries and will jump up on your lap. So in theory it’s the ideal place to get some pussy. And we can’t say that about every hostel, so stay here and you won’t regret it.
Dorms €16-22. Doubles €30. Triples €24. Quad €22. Check in noon. Check out 11am. Reception 24hr.
Reach the third floor, and your difficult escalator climb will be rewarded with a gorgeous panorama of Athens and the Acropolis itself. All around are marble reliefs from the Parthenon (note the spaces reserved for the Elgin Marbles should the Brits ever return them…). Here you can witness all the different ways centaurs can kick your ass while the Lapiths endure real #struggles. Watch a short documentary about the Parthenon, take a look at the reconstructions of the gorgeous Parthenon pediments, and there you have it. You’ve climbed the Acropolis Museum. So go forth, leave the modern marvels of air-conditioning and learn to carry the weight of the knowledge and culture you now bear after visiting this fine establishment.
Admission €5, EU students and seniors €3. Open Apr-Oct M 8am-4pm, Tu-Th 8am-8pm, F 8am-10pm, Sa-Su 8am-8pm; Nov-Mar Tu-Th 9am- 5pm, F 9am-10pm, Sa-Su 9am-8pm.
NATIONAL ARCHAEOLOGICAL MUSEUM
MUSEUM
44 Patission St.
213 214 4800
You’re in Greece. You should spend your days staring at gorgeous, sculpted naked bodies. So go to the National Archaeological Museum. With its enormous collection of Greek (and some Egyptian!) art, there’s no shortage of muscular frames and nude bods here. Oh, and some great art as well.
The museum is a bit difficult to navigate, with numerous halls and doors that just look so inviting. Chronologically, the first stop should be in Mycenaean and Cycladic art. Gaze into the mask of definitely-not-Agamemnon but an equally regal Mycenaean king. And see why the Mycenaeans were known for being rich in gold.
Next, wander through the kouros/kore galleries, with their beautiful sculptures of young men and women. Take your time here because there are some rather large ones… if you know what we mean. Continue with the sculptures into the Classical section, where a more naturalistic depiction arises. See how the gorgeous Artemision Bronze of Zeus or Poseidon steals the show.
But don’t get lost in the abs of these sculptures. Turn into some of the galleries filled with glass cases along the way and see everything from ancient bridles for horses to hand mirrors to musical instruments. When you reach the enormous red room with a coy Aphrodite, take the stairs up to see the second floor.
Here, you’ll find plenty of ancient pottery, along with surprise skeletons. Be prepared. Head back down and appreciate some more Hellenistic artwork. If everything is looking too Greek for you, head into the Egyptian gallery, which has plenty of boats and even some mummies.
Continue you walk through this museum. A thorough look will take several hours at least. And then if you ever get out of its labyrinth (so Greek!), you’ll be rewarded with free Wi-Fi in the internet corner right by the tickets office. And also rewarded by having had the chance to see some of the most beautiful artifacts in Athens. That’s cool, too.
Admission €7, EU students and seniors €3. Open daily 8am-8pm.
MT. LYCABETTUS
MOUNTAIN
Kolonaki. Funicular entrance at intersection of Kloutarchou and Aristippou St.
210 721 07 01
Forget Amsterdam—Athens is another great city if you want to get high. With plenty of hills that seem to keep popping up whenever you’ve got your backpack on, it’s not hard to find amazing panoramas of the city. But sometimes amazing just isn’t good enough. Always striving for excellence, head to the highest point in Athens: Mt Lycabettus.
Located in Kolonaki, the poshest neighborhood in Athens, Mt. Lycabettus provides endless fodder for bad jokes about high society and how, at 900ft above sea level, it’s still easier to climb than the social ladder. If you’re into hiking, it’s about a 30min. climb up stone steps. If you’re into sitting, you’ll still need to climb up some steps of stairs until you get to the intersection of Ploutarchou and Aristippou St., where you can take the funicular up to the top.
Once you reach the top, prepare your eyes for one of the most gorgeous views of Athens. The whole city sprawls out in front of you with the oceans and the mountains in the distance. Take it in. Take some selfies. Accept that you are too high to actually get a good look at the Parthenon. And then take a romantic walk around with your phone (because iPhones over girlfriends any day of the week). And then switch from front cam and get an equally gorgeous view. Not bad, Athens.
Funicular €7. Funicular runs every 30min. 9am-3am.
ANCIENT AGORA OF ATHENS
MARKET
Entrance at 24 Adrianou
210 321 01 85
The center of Athenian life. Political, communal, and economic. A place where Socrates, Aristotle, and Demosthenes all walked and argued. The main marketplace and the meeting place of the 500-men Boule which helped define Athenian democracy. And a place for a pretty nice walk, too. The Ancient Agora is kind of everything you ever wanted in Athens.
Not as crowded as the Acropolis because it’s far more spread out, with plenty of gardens in between, the once bustling Agora is now a lovely little respite to take your boo to while getting a healthy dose of history. There are plenty of buildings and piles of rubble to admire. Here are some highlights.
Start with the completely renovated Stoa of Attalos. Once filled with shops and philosophers, only the museum shop and plenty of busts remain. A gorgeous building that now houses the Agora Museum, take some time looking at the pottery and sculptures here.
Head to the right to make a pilgrimage to the Church of the Holy Apostles. A beautiful medieval church from 1000 CE, let its quaint old design and beautiful frescoes inside charm you with the awesome might of God or something.
You love odeons, even if you’re not exactly sure what they are (concert halls, pretty much). The passage of time is currently playing in the Odeon of Agrippa, but it’s still some of the more intact ruins in the Agora, with towering statues standing starkly against the empty building. It’s one of those postmodern art places now, we suppose.
Built to everyone’s favorite god of lameness (getting thrown off Mt. Olympus builds character, at least), the Temple of Hephaestus is large and gorgeous and the best-preserved in all of Greece. Take a look at the friezes featuring Theseus battling the Pallantids on the side. Currently, instead of Hephaestus’s thundering hammer, it’s full of chirping now, making it a temple for the birds. Because Hephaestus must have enjoyed lame jokes.
Admission €4, EU students and seniors €2. Open daily 8am-8pm.
MONASTIRAKI
SQUARE
Monastiraki metro stop. Ermou, Adrianou, Athinas, and Mitropoleos St. all converge here, too.
A region famous for housing Athens’s flea market, souvlaki row, and some great street dancers (because sometimes white guys got game), Monastiraki should definitely be a place you hit up during your stay in Athens. In the shadow of the Acropolis, Monastiraki opens up to a giant square that’s always crowded with locals and tourists alike. Take a seat anywhere you can and take it in for a moment.
If you’re feeling hungry, this is by far the best place to get gyros and souvlaki at really cheap prices. There are also decent coffee and gelato places around and a Beneth right in the square, so you can get some great baklava, too.
Once you’ve gotten your fill of all this awesomeness, get ready to pop them tags with €20 in your pocket. It’s time to check out the Athens flea market. Take any of the small side streets and find rows of stores and vendors with anything from Converses to hookahs to “THIS IS SPARTA” shirts (even though you’re in Athens—minor plot point). Walk around and take a look at these stores because they’re a good place to get some pretty cool stuff. Everything is fairly cheap, and there’s no guarantee that you’ll leave empty handed. Just save around €2 for more souvlaki in Monastiraki at sunset, and life will be practically complete.
FOOD
KOSTAS
GREEK $
5 Pentelis
210 322 85 02
Souvlaki is one of the surest signs that someone out there loves us. Warm pita bread, tender meat, fresh tomatoes, and French fries—it’s the Elysian Fields in your mouth. A popular Greek speciality, finding souvlaki in Athens is like finding a Starbucks in New York.
But for some of the best souvlaki you’ll ever have, walk a couple blocks away from Monastiraki and come to Kostos. It’s easy to walk by Kostos unless you notice the line of people outside. Walk in and you’ll find a cozy souvlaki heaven with toasting pita breads, plenty of pictures and newspaper clippings on the walls, and old Greek men taking shots of ouzo at the wooden bar. Welcome home.
The staff is incredibly friendly, the prices are cheap (€2.20 for souvlaki), and the food is incredible. Not traditional street souvlaki, there are usually only beef or pork kebab cut options instead of gyros and no French fries (difficult to accept, but stay strong). Bite into the souvlaki, though, and you’ll fall in love. Warm, fresh, and with a spicy kick. Just when you thought souvlaki couldn’t get better, Kostos will give you something new to swear by.
Souvlaki €2.20. Open M-Sa 9am-3pm.
MONO
RESTAURANT $$
4C Benizelou Palaiologou
210 322 850
Don’t let the name scare you off. If the low-quality tourist options in Plaka just aren’t cutting it anymore, head down the small P. Benizelou to dine in this gem. Modern and sleek, with nature-inspired accents that give it a rustic tone, Mono is everything you wanted and more from a sketchily-named restaurant.
The food here is certainly worth its weight in euro coins. Appetizers range from mussels to cheese to flavored mushrooms. The seafood options are always delectable, and since you are in a port city after all, go for that swordfish and red tuna. Other meat options are limited to chicken or lamb, but you’ll probably survive. The pasta here is exciting (which one rarely says about pasta), but squid ink or smoked pancetta make everything even more fun.
Appetizers €6-12. Pasta €13-14. Entrees €13-24. Open daily 1pm-1am.
OPOS PALIA
GREEK $$
2 Veikou
A hidden treasure in the Plaka region. For some real, non-touristy, so-Greek-that-you-don’t-really-know-what’s-going-on food, come here. No sign, no menu, but plenty of Greeks playing backgammon and smoking cigarettes at the few tables outside.
There’s no set menu, so every time you come in it’s an adventure. But you can be sure that whatever they’ve got cooking today is going to be delicious. The food is very reasonably priced, with entrees around and always traditional and authentic. Relax, listen to all the Greek conversations around you, eat some amazing food, and for once, imagine what it’s like to not be a tourist.
Entrees €5-10. Seems to depend on food. Usually 10am-10pm.
AVOCADO
VEGETARIAN $$
30 Nikis
210 323 78 78
You know what’s great? Vegetables. A new vegetarian restaurant on a quiet street near Syntagma Sq., Avocado is the cool, hip place to go for delicious vegetarian meals. With a young staff, a clean and modern aesthetic, and John Lennon’s “Imagine” playing on the radio, this could be the answer to all your vegetarian dreams. And that’s before you even look at the menu.
Avocado has an extensive tea selection and even some kombucha if you want to get a little hipster. The appetizers range from good ol’ nachos to “Mother Earth,” a spinach tart with the works. Anyone dearly missing their meat can go on to order vegetarian or vegan burgers, or perhaps if you’re feeling adventurous, a fancier Greek salad. The pastas are delicious, there are macrobiotic options, and we recommend anything with, well, avocados. Can’t go wrong with that.
Appetizers €5-7. Entrees €8-12. Open M-Sa 11am-10pm, Su 11am-7pm.
BENETH
DESSERTS $
97 Adrianou
210 323 88 22
Just because you can’t describe your love life as sweet and sticky doesn’t mean your diet should follow suit. So while you’re in Greece, say yassas to baklava. A delicious dessert made of filo pastry, honey, and chopped nuts, if you only eat one meal a day, make it baklava—it probably has enough calories anyway.
The best place to sink your teeth into these flaky layers of sweetness? Beneth on Adrianou. It’s a storefront that’s hard to pass up, with plates filled with chocolate-covered cookies, creamy cakes, and fresh fruit tarts. As you wander in the narrow bakery, prepare your eyes for the feast of baked breads, pies, and ice cream treats that will sing their siren song. But hold fast and save your dessert virginity (of the hour, of course) for some baklava (€1.95).
Beneth also offers a variety of sandwiches. Get your fill of tomato and mozzarella on fresh bread and then stay for dessert. If you’re lucky, snag one of the two high tables out front.
Baklava €1.95. Pastries and bread €1-4. Open daily 7am-10pm.
NIGHTLIFE
Athens is a decent city for nightlife. But to get really turnt up, head to the islands.
Athens
Athens isn’t known for it’s nightlife. Many Athenians hit up islands like Mykonos if they’re looking for a good time in the summer. But it’s not impossible to turn up in this sleepy city. Your best bet for getting shitfaced and dancing all night is in a region known as Gazi. Clubs and bars line the street here, and though drinks are expensive, most places don’t have a cover.
Socilista at Triptolemou 33 is a popular local nightclub where they play almost exclusively Greek house music, so you can feel the shame when the DJ stops the music—everyone sings the next lyrics, and you just take a long sip of your drink. Confetti and sparklers make up for it, though. If your ears are craving Pitbull, 1) welcome to planet Earth, and 2) you won’t like it here. To get to Gazi, either take the metro to Kerameikos or take a taxi. Protip: always take a taxi with a meter. Acropolis area to Gazi costs about €5-6, and unmetered taxis may try to charge you up to €20.
Apart from Gazi, there are plenty of bars in the Plaka and Psiri regions if you want to drink and have a good time. Walk around here to see what’s the most happening place, but don’t expect anything too crazy, Some of these regions do get kinda sketch at night, so bring company or take a cab.
Go with friends, dance even if people start giving you weird looks, and have an awesome time. Because even if nightlife isn’t Athens’s specialty, it sure is yours.
Mykonos
If you remember Mykonos, you didn’t do Mykonos right. (Just kidding—please drink responsibly.) Famous for being paradise (if your idea of paradise doesn’t include sleep or Wi-Fi), Mykonos is where all the pretty young Athenians go on the weekends to get fucked up.
Take the ferry from Athens, and after 5hr (or 2.5hr. if you got money to blow on the fast ferry), welcome to paradise. The two big hostels here are Paradise Camping, which is right on Paradise Beach where all the action happens, and Paraga Camping, which is about a 5min. trek through some rocks from Paradise but is quieter and has a pool. In the end, it shouldn’t matter which hostel you stay at unless your backpack is super picky. Nobody comes here for the beds. Our advice:
• AFTERNOON-7PM: Sleep on the beach or by the pool (careful: some beach chairs cost a surprise €5, either bring a towel or relax by the pool). Get some ice cream to keep you cool.
• 7-10PM: Eat dinner and chill with friends at one of the many cafes that line the beaches. Souvlaki for €3 will probably be your best bet for a cheap eat.
• 10PM-MIDNIGHT: Pregame. Apologize to your liver, then hit up the liquor store by the Paradise Mini Mart. It’s ridiculously cheaper than drinks at bars.
• MIDNIGHT-TOMORROW AFTERNOON: TURN DOWN FOR WHAT? Party, bitches.
The big clubs by Paradise Beach alternate what days they’re open, so ask around first. Covers are steep at €20, but if you play your cards right, you might be able to manipulate someone into paying for you. Most clubs don’t get going until 1am or later, and then they keep going until morning. Earlier clubs and bars like Tropicana and Guapaloca on Paradise keep music going all day, and you might be able to find a crazy party at 5pm, too.
If you’re looking for incredible nightlife that takes you into the morning, get the fuck out of Athens and come here. Meet crazy people. Wait for the sunrise by drinking Grey Goose and smoking cigarettes on the beach. And have some of the most unbelievable stories to tell, all from one weekend. You’ll only regret it in the late afternoon.
ESSENTIALS
Practicalities
• VISAS: If you’re an EU citizen, feel free to skip this part because you don’t need a visa. Citizens of the US, most of North and South America, and Australia as well as many other countries (be sure to check online) do not require a visa for stays up until 90 days. If you’re going to be in Europe for more than 90 days, contact an embassy or consulate to hook you up.
• WORK PERMITS: You’re allowed to werk it but not work in Greece with a visa. Work permits take time and money to obtain, so contact the Greek consulate for more information.
• MONEY: Eurochange is one of the biggest chains where you can exchange other currencies for the euro. They’re most commonly found in the airport but also throughout Athens. To withdraw money, make sure your debit or credit card has a four-digit pin, as that’s most commonly accepted. Finding ATMs isn’t hard. The most common banks are Alpha Bank, Eurobank, and Piraeus Bank. And they’re often all right next to each other, so you get your pick of ATM color scheme.
• INTERNET: Thankfully, there are many free hotspots for Wi-Fi in Athens. Places to connect to the free athenswifi are at Thisseio, Syntagma, and Kerameikou. For a comprehensive list including restaurants, cafes, and such, check out http://free-wifi.gr/en.
• POST OFFICES: Mail is handled by the Greek National Post Office (ELTA). Postcards and letters from Greece to outside Europe will cost €0.85. Some central post offices are at Dionisiou Areopagitou 7 by the Acropolis (open M-F 7:30am-8:30pm, Sa 7:30am-2:30pm), at the intersection of Mitropoleos and Syntagma Square (open M-F 7:30am-8:30pm, Sa 7:30am-2:30pm, Su 9am-1:30pm), and in Exarhia at Zaimi 36-38 (open M-F 7:30am-2:30pm).
Emergency
• POLICE & FIRE: 112
• AMBULANCES: 112 and 166
• TOURIST POLICE: 210 920 07 267 (Veikou St.)
• PHARMACIES: Look for a big green “+” sign anywhere, and you’ll find a pharmacy. Late-night pharmacies stay open on a rotating basis. If you find a pharmacy that’s closed, look at the sheet posted on the door that will tell you where the closest open pharmacy is.
Getting There
If you’re coming into Greece, you’ll probably be flying. Eleftherios Venizelos (ATH) is Athens’s international airport. To get from the airport to Syntagma Square, the center of town, you can take the metro (the blue line) and get on any train you see. The airport’s the last stop, so any train from here is going back into Athens. The metro ticket will cost you €8. Alternatively, you can take the airport bus, X95, which will take you into Syntagma Square and cost €5. Taking a taxi can cost you around €30-35 during the day and around €50 after midnight. Be sure to take a cab with a fare machine so you don’t get ripped off.
If you’re coming in by train, Larissa is the central train station. From here you can take the red line on the metro to Acropoli, then switch to the blue line and get off after one stop at Syntagma.
If you’re coming in by ferry, the main port is Piraeus. From here you can take the green line on the metro to Monastiraki, then switch to the blue line to get to Syntagma.
Getting Around
Athens by foot is very doable, especially around all the touristy areas. Plaka, Monastiraki, and Syntagma Square are all within 10min. or so of each other. Thanks to the Olympics, the metro is efficient and reliable as well. Buy one ticket for €1.40, which is valid for 90min. A full day pass is €4, and a weekly pass is €14. Be sure to validate your ticket at one of the machines, or you’ll have to pay a hefty fine. If you only want to take a bus, it’s €1.20 at a bus station or on board. Tickets can be purchased at any station, any yellow box by a bus stop, or most kiosks.
Taxis are very affordable in Athens. Just make sure you don’t get screwed over. Always take a taxi with a fare machine. Those without will always overcharge. There are usually two pricings: one before midnight and one after midnight, which is more expensive. For a good estimate of prices, from Plaka to Gazi should cost around €6. Make sure you’re not being overcharged.
AEGLI HOTEL
HOTEL $$$
Argonafton 24
2421 024 471
Sleek, modern, clean. Clearly not where the college students live. But if you’d like your own room with a view out over the port, come to Aegli Hotel. It’s located right by the water and minutes away from the center of Volos. Ask for a port-side room if you want a look out over the water. Then prepare yourself for luxury.
Walk in, and let the classic wooden panels and marble entrance impress you. Reception is friendly, and the bedrooms are standard, with the same white and wooden panel aesthetic as you found at reception. Someone’s taken their interior design courses here. You might feel bad dragging in the dirt and soil sample collection that has gathered on your backpack, but don’t worry about it. You’ll add some gritty touches to the impeccably white sheets on the bed.
Breakfast is served in a dining room. After breakfast, you’ll always be faced with the difficult decision of if you want to explore the seaside or downtown first. Sucks to suck. But take your pick. And after coming back in the evening, head up to your room and get a beautiful view of Volos lit up and night. #flawless
Singles €65. Doubles €60. Triples €75. Reception 24hr.
PARK HOTEL
HOTEL $$$
Deligiorgi 2
2421 036 511
No, it’s not just a classy name. This hotel is in fact directly in front of a beautiful seaside park in Volos. From the rooftop garden in this hotel, you get a lovely panorama of Volos and the mountains.
All the businessmen who use this hotel might make you tone down the racket a little bit. Keep that for the private rooms. The rooms are clean and if you’re lucky you might even get a plant to love and cherish. It’s like they brought the park to you! Apart from that, it’s a fairly standard hotel. The rooftop garden is the most impressive part, with a gorgeous view over the sea.
The city center is within walking distance but still isolated enough to be in a quieter part of town, making it a decent place to park yourself for a night or two.
Singles €60. Doubles €80. Reception open 7am-midnight. Check-in 2pm-midnight.
Tucked away between the mountains and the sea, Volos is a gorgeous, small city where you can relax, look out over the water, and college party it up. Home to most of the University of Thessaly, Volos is a vibrant young town. Though on the more petite side, it packs in all the charm of a portside city while bursting with student culture. Clear blue waters, the looming Mt. Pelion, music concerts in the streets, and crowded tables where everyone’s taking shots of tsipouro—whether you want a peaceful walk to the beach or a bar where you’ll be taking in something other than water, there’s no shortage of fun to be had in Volos. Try to befriend the local students, since they usually major in finding the parties, and there’s not a lot of tourist infrastructure (or hostels) here yet. So if you’re ready to rock this small joint, grab some tsipouro, guiltily water it down a little, and get ready to party all night by the beach.
TA FILARAKIA
GREEK $
Antonopoulou 96-100
242 102 20 26
Tsipouro. Learn that word. It’ll become your best friend in Volos. Where in Athens, ouzo is all the rage, come up to Thessaly, and it’s all about the tsipouro. A tsipouradiko, if you’re good with derivations, is a place that serves tsipouro. And so much more.
In an incredible tradition that should really just exist everywhere, it’s very common in Volos for people to go to a tsipouradiko, order some tsipouro for each person, and as if by some alcoholic magic, the waiters bring the drinks and then several plates of delicious seafood.
Ta Filarakia is among the best tsipouradika. A favorite among the locals, it’s tucked away from the busy, expensive ones by the seaside. Here, charming green wooden chairs and green-and-white-checkered tablecloths give a very homey, comforting feel. The perfect place to turn up. Prices are cheap, and the plates of food are plentiful.
Start with a tiny personal bottle of tsipouro for each person. Then watch your table fill up with calamari, shrimp, and maybe like five other kinds of fish that you can’t really recognize. But they’re all delicious and the perfect lemony, salty meal to go along with your drink. Finish your drink, order another, and watch your table be filled up with completely new dishes.
Tsipouro €4 per glass. Open M-Sa 10am-2am.
LA MAMMA
PIZZA $
29 Metamorfoseos
242 103 33 38
No college town is complete without some damn good pizza. And maybe your local Pizza Hut isn’t cutting it anymore. Well welcome to the Mediterranean. La Mamma is a delicious pizza (sorry, redundant) place located in a more residential area of Volos. Specializing in deliveries, you can call to have a cute Greek guy bring you some mouthwatering pizza. Or go to the small store with a giant picture of a pizza as its sign, order a pizza, anxiously wait 10min., then take it home or eat it by the port. There’s no place to sit inside, but a quick walk to Ermou and back should be enough time to make sure every topping has found its rightful spot on your pizza.
Staff is amazingly friendly and willing to offer you an English menu with 36 different varieties of pizza that could be stuffed in your mouth. Choose wisely because they’re all delicious and freshly made with cheese and sauce that are like “whaaat how is this so good” good.
Apart from pizza, La Mamma also has a decent selection of pasta, salads, and appetizers ranging from garlic bread to cheesy fries to a club sandwich (which still counts as an appetizer, guys). Well-priced drinks include sodas, beers, and sangria in a bottle. Which along with the pizza pretty much sums up every college experience ever.
Small pizza €6.50. Large pizza €8.50. Pasta €4-5. Open daily 12:30pm-12:30am.
METRO CREPE STATION
CREPES $
193 Dimitriados
242 102 75 50
You don’t need to be able to read the menu. If you perfect your pointing skills and just keep saying chocolate, you’re guaranteed to come out with an amazing crepe. Trust us, we’re experts.
Metro Crepe Station is your #1 stop for all your light, sweet, savory, crepey needs. Either order one of the predestined crepes on the menu or exercise some free will by building your own, which is always more fun.
Fillings include everything from cheese and salami to Nutella, merenda, and Oreo bits. All the fruit options are made with fresh fruit cut right in front of you. And with more varieties of chocolate than you could ever dream of, don’t be ashamed to stand in awe for several moments before blindly asking for one.
All crepes are made on the spot, so after you order you can watch your crepe go from batter to light, tasty goodness and then get filled up with some sweet Nutella loving. Mmm. Then either sit at one of the tables inside or take it on the go in the main shopping district of Volos. Chocolate stains on your shirt are so in right now.
Crepes €3-5. Open daily noon-5pm.
NIGHTLIFE
WHITE
CLUB
Pirassou & Laxana
695 165 94 45
The sleek white bar and couches give White its name, but the crowds of young students, the loud music, and the smoke and confetti are what make White the most popular summer club in Volos, where everyone comes to drink and dance from Wednesday to Friday.
White’s popular among the students and recent grads in the area, giving it a great young vibe. The DJs blast top 40 music under bright purple lights. There are usually themes for most of the nights, ranging from ‘90s Night to Greek Night.
This club fills up fairly fast on weekend nights, but parties really get going late. As the music blasts, people spend a fair amount of time talking and drinking. At least the club is so beautiful that you’re guaranteed to have something to talk about.
So when in Volos, do as the students do. Come to a poolside bar, sip a mojito, and then get ready to listen to great music and fist bump all night long.
Drinks €7-10. Open W-Sa 11pm-late.
TOY STORIES
CLUB
Taki Ikonomaki 26
242 103 30 34
It’s all fun and games until someone gets wasted. Then it’s even better. That’s why God invented Toy Stories. It’s more than just a bar. Consider this concept: drinks + board games. Fuck yes? Fuck yes. Instead of following that good ol’ American idea of getting drunk as efficiently as possible, come here for a more casual night out. Grab a beer, choose a game, and let the fun begin.
The red wall right next to the bar is lined with boxes of everything from Ticket to Ride to Jungle Speed to “figure out that Greek board game,” which seems to be a popular one. Take a look through the menu of board games, choose something that hopefully has English directions, and then prepare for the most fun you’ve had sitting down in a while.
Popular among many college students in the area, it attracts a young crowd but not a particularly turnt up one. It’s a great place to start or end a night or just the place to go when you want to get with your friends and ask them questions about the stupid card on your forehead that you can’t freaking figure out. Relive that childhood competitive board game spirit, get drunk off victory, and feel the frustration every time your jackass friends screws you over.
Drinks €3-5. Open pretty much all the time. They start closing down when people start leaving.
O BAR
BAR
Leoforos Dimokratias
242 809 20 00
Don’t let the rustic stone exterior scare you off. This place is as vibrant and young as any of the bars in Volos, with loud music, plenty of alcohol, and crowds of students. Enter and head toward the large white bar in the center, which is where all them alcohol-lovers flock, filling its four sides.
Guest DJs often play at this place, or you can come to the allegedly original Greek Night here where your ears will hear so much Greek pop and techno that maybe you’ll actually learn some of this language.
This place can get rather crowded, but students in Volos like most students can’t really be bothered with doing things in a timely manner, so most places around here turn up after 1am. Come in, grab a cocktail (or if you’re smart, pregame with some tsipouro before), and then watch the room full up, listen to the beats play, and party until the early hours of the morning.
Drinks €7-10. Open M-Th 11pm-5am, F-Sa 11pm-8am, Su 11pm-5am.
ESSENTIALS
Practicalities
• POST OFFICES: Mail is handled by the Greek National Post Office (ELTA). Postcards and letters from Greece to outside Europe will cost €0.85. Some central post offices are at Dimitriados and Ag. Nikolaou (open M-F 7:30am-8:30pm) and at 3 Chatzimichali (open M-F 7:30am-2:30pm).
• INTERNET: Wi-Fi can be hard to find outside of your hotel. Check for cafes or restaurants that offer complimentary Wi-Fi. The area by the main yellow building of the University of Thessaly also offers free Wi-Fi.
Emergency
• EMERGENCY NUMBERS: The emergency number in Greece is 112 for police, fire department, and ambulances.
• AMBULANCE SERVICE: 166
• TOURIST POLICE: 24210 39057, located at 179, 28th October St.
• PHARMACIES: Look for a big green “+” sign anywhere, and you’ll find a pharmacy. Late night pharmacies stay open on a rotating basis. If you find a pharmacy that’s closed, look at the sheet posted on the door that will tell you where the closest open pharmacy is.
Getting There
If you’re coming from within Europe, RyanAir does offer some flights that fly directly into Volos Airport from Frankfurt, Milan, Rome, and Brussels. Other plane companies also offer flights in, but they are infrequent.
Your best bet for coming into Volos will be by bus. KTEL operates fairly frequent service between Athens, Volos, and Thessaloniki. The bus ride is 4hr. from Athens and about 2.5hr. from Thessaloniki.
From Athens
Buses leave from the Liosion station in Athens, which is known as Terminal B. A little outside the city, take bus 024 from outside the National Gardens and get off at the Praktoria KTEL stop. A taxi from Syntagma should cost you less than €10. Tickets can be reserved online in advance. Buses don’t usually sell out. A ticket will cost you around €30 depending on when you’re traveling.
From Thessaloniki
KTEL buses leave from the main bus station, KTEL Macedonia. To get here, take bus number 8 from the train station, Neos Sidirodromikos Stathmos, and get off at the KTEL Macedonia stop. Tickets to Volos from here will cost you around €18.
There are also trains going between Athens and Volos and Thessaloniki and Volos. Though they may move faster, they both stop at Larissa, and you’ll have to switch trains to Volos, so most people prefer taking the bus.
Getting Around
Most people in Volos get around by bike. Tourists can certainly get by on foot. The city isn’t very, big and you can walk around the main parts fairly easily. Buses do exist if you want to take them. Tickets are €1.10 for a bus ride. No underground metro exists for Volos. If you want to take a taxi to go anywhere in the city, it should cost you less than €6-7. Note that taxis have two fares: one for before midnight and the double fare from midnight-5am.
get a room!
LITTLE BIG HOUSE
HOTEL $
Andokidou 24
231 301 4323
Located in the beautiful Ano Polis, Little Big House might be a little uphill from the rest of the city, but you’ll get the chance to explore life in this old-fashioned area while being only 15min. away from more central Thessaloniki.
Vicky who is just the nicest and most helpful person ever, will make sure you feel at home by answering every stupid question you have and welcoming you with a cold frappe, a traditional drink in Thessaloniki. The brightly colored rooms are incredibly spacious and probably some of the best you’ll come across in your backpacking travels. Equipped with air conditioning, kitchens, ensuite bathrooms, plenty of mirrors, and even a balcony with a gorgeous view out over Ano Polis if you’re up on the fourth floor, part of you won’t want to leave your bed (and it won’t be for lack of sleep).
The bar area offers complimentary tea and coffee and a decent €2 breakfast, though we recommend ordering a more substantial meal from the bar for €2-2.50, which could get you some toasted bread with Greece cheese spread and nuts. Coffee and alcoholic drinks are also reasonably priced, and there’s seating on a rooftop patio as well. The bar, being one of the few in this part of the city, even attracts locals in the evenings.
Dorms €17-19. Doubles €24. Reception open 8am-midnight.
STUDIOS ARABAS
HOSTEL $
Sachtouri 28
694 446 6897
Also located in Ano Poli is Studios Arabas. Here you get all the charm of the old city, the 19th-century houses, and the not-from-this-century atmosphere.
In a quiet, unassuming yellow and orange building protected by copious amounts of foliage, you’ll find this hostel. The staff and the people living here are very friendly and willing to help you out. The beds are very comfortable, and the rooms are spacious and clean.
Outside, you’ll find a beautiful garden which has become a central social hub in this hostel. Occasional barbecues bring together everyone, and this is where you’ll be able to meet anyone to take you out clubbing in Thessaloniki. Because nothing unites people like plastic chairs and good food. And a couple of bottles of wine. That’ll do the trick, too.
Dorms €15. Check-in and check-out at 11am. Reception open until 1am.
Looking out from the castle in Ano Polis, Thessaloniki sprawls out in front of you. From the horizon meeting the ocean to the bustling city streets to the quiet village of the old city, every bit of this 2300-year-old city will charm you. The streets are filled with more Byzantine ruins and churches than you will be able to visit, and the Roman arches will be great landmarks to get you home. Among the castles and towers, a young population fills Thessaloniki with life. In the evening, the city fills up with all the cool kids drinking on the streets and a nightlife sector that is sometimes too crowded to walk through on Friday and Saturday nights at 3am.
Aristotelous Square marks the central area in Thessaloniki. A large open plaza connects major streets like Nikis, which hugs the coastline; Tsimiski and Ermou make up two of the main shopping streets. To the west of the square lies the clubbing and bars district where you can go get crazy any day of the week. To the east lies the Rotunda and the student and university centers of the city. To the south is the ocean and plenty of bars facing out to the sea. Follow Nikis to the east and get to the lively area of the White Tower with music concerts, drinking by the port, and a pedal bar which is just the best idea ever. Go north (and up the not so gentle slopes), and you’ll get to the old city of Ana Poli which is practically its own small town full of old houses and winding streets. Altogether you have the city of Thessaloniki. It will swallow you up with ouzo and history and Greek techno and the sea, and somewhere along the way, you’ll fall in love.
FOOD
TO IGGLIS
GREEK $
Irodotou 32
231 301 19 67
If you hike up to Ano Poli, you deserve a treat. Come up to To Igglis. A favorite of locals, it can be hard to grab a table here late at night, but if you snag one, prepare your taste buds. Take a seat outside under the leafy canopy and appreciate the charm of old buildings and cobblestone streets and listen to all the Greek conversations happening around you.
The waiters will welcome you to the old fashioned restaurant (complete with 1920s political posters on the fading red and yellow walls) with what you wished everyone welcomed you with: a shot of some really strong liquor.
The menu has charming English mistakes, but the food is flawless. Appetizers include delicious dishes, from everyone’s favorite garlic bread to Greek salad to some smoked mackerel. The main dishes are mostly meat with Greek meatballs or lamb. Ask for the daily specials. They always have something delicious in the oven. The food is cooked by one guy behind a counter, and you can watch him work his magic.
Service can be a little brusque, and the food is brought out as it is ready instead of all at once. But once you start eating, you can’t complain. Prices are very reasonable and the portions are huge.
Appetizers €3-4. Entrees €7. Usually noon-late.
MAGEIRES
BUFFET, RESTAURANT $
Basileos Irakleiou 42
231 027 23 79
Eat food to save the world? Guess you could make that sacrifice. Mageires is at the beautiful intersection of eating cheap food and helping people in need. Hiring only those people who are disadvantaged, old, and in need, this restaurant does not discriminate based on skill or experience but offers jobs to anyone who needs one. Furthermore, any food leftover is given to the church and distributed among more people in need.
There is an incredibly cheap buffet where you can get a main course, a drink, a salad, fruit, and dessert for only €7. Main courses vary depending on what was cooked that day range from delicious meats like chicken or lamb served with rice and then a selection of cheeses, fruits, and salads to complement any meal. Grab a beer or some wine, and you’re all set. There’s a reason why young locals line up along here to grab lunch. The food is great and cheap.
All the food is lined up on a buffet on one side of the modern restaurant. Grab a plate and fill it up with everything you can. Then take a seat either outside where high tables face the wooden exterior, or stay in and sit at the white or wooden tables in the sleek marble restaurant.
Buffet €7. Open daily noon-7pm.
KATSAMAKA
GREEK $
1 Athonos Sq.
231 023 41 77
The sign has a chicken, a pig, and a goat on it. How could you not love it? Located right along the small Athonos Square, Katsamaka specializes in meat dishes, and it’s pretty damn good at what it does.
Traditional Greek music plays, and inside you can watch delicious hunks of meat rotating on a spit. Appetizers include salads or some aged cheese. The main dishes are almost all meat, however. The menu offers both sandwiches and portions with various meat options. Choose either chicken, pork, beef, or some of the untranslatable options on the menu, and you’ll be pleasantly surprised.
The food is served on wooden plates and baskets, so you know that this shit is the real deal. Try the meat and you’ll understand why people come here. It’s tender, well cooked, and really good. Portions are served with fresh vegetables, magically healthy tasting French fries, and some pita bread, meaning you could in theory make a sandwich. Or just go for the sandwich option, which is also delicious. Tourists and locals alike come here for a good lunch or dinner.
Sandwiches €3-4. Entrees €7. Open daily noon-5pm.
NIGHTLIFE
HOME 9-11
BAR
Syngrou, entrance next to to Mauro Probato (take the stairs up)
698 625 00 53
Located on the top floor of an old 19th-century mansion, Home 9-11 is the perfect mix of classy, progressive, and turn down for whaaaat. As you’re walking around this crowded nightlife district in Thessaloniki, you’ll probably hear really loud music and at least once try to figure out where it’s coming from. Look up. Right above a selection of other bars, you’ll see the bright flashing lights and feel the deep basses of Home 9-11.
If you come in with a group, you’ll be led to your own standing table and drinks will be brought to you. If you don’t want anything, make sure to say so or you’ll be charged for the not-so-complimentary water.
The DJs blast everything from Avicii to Katy Perry to plenty of Greek techno. Every now and then confetti falls from the ceiling and no one is surprised. The DJs are high energy and are all set to party with fog horns. The crowd is young and attractive but prefer to stand and drink with their friends rather than twerk.
Drinks €4-10. Open M-F 9am-midnight, Sa 1-10pm, Su noon-2am.
TO MAURO PROBATO
CLUB
Syngrou 11
231 062 65 71
If the fuzzy sheep mascot doesn’t win you over, the loud music and impressive DJ sets will. To Mauro Probato, which translates to “The Black Sheep,” is a popular bar and disco. Walk in and you’ll immediately know their specialty: rock. Giant rock posters line the back side of the room. On the right is the sleek purple bar which presents an impressive selection of alcohols behind it.
The crowd is everyone from student passersby in this busy district to some diehard rock fans who come with great mullets and cut off Sons of Anarchy bro tanks to tear this place apart.
This club gets a little more dance-y than some of the other ones, and considering the type of music, all you’ll really need to do is jump up and down while yelling out all the words to your favorite Blink-182 song.
Drinks €4-10. Open daily 8pm-6am.
PICCADILLY
CLUB
3 Syggrou
231 051 00 32
Restaurant by day, crazy nightclub once the clock strikes midnight. Find crowds of people standing outside smoking cigarettes, feel your heart beat change to match the overwhelming bass drops, and you’ve made it to Piccadilly.
Stenciled signs and old wooden beams give this place an old-fashioned charm. The lights by the bar are all library-esque lamps, and the barstools feature various beer caps. Outside there are plenty of seats and tables where people flock to get away from the heat and throw back a cold drink. Inside, the music blasts louder than most of the surrounding clubs, but it can be hard to motivate this crowd to dance.
It shouldn’t come as a surprise that people here prefer to drink and talk to the backdrop of loud EDM but will still refuse to dance. Come by late, around 1am, and this place will be filled up on weekend nights.
Drinks €5-10. Open 24hr.
ESSENTIALS
Practicalities
• POST OFFICES: Mail is handled by the Greek National Post Office (ELTA). Postcards and letters from Greece to outside Europe will cost €0.85. Some central post offices are at 98 Agiou Dimitriou (open M-F 7:30am-2:30pm) and at 24 Eleftherias (open M-F 7:30am-2:30pm).
• INTERNET: Wi-Fi can be hard to find outside of your hotel or hostel. Check for cafes or restaurants that offer complimentary Wi-Fi. There are also many hot spots, but most of these charge money for internet access.
Emergency
• TOURIST POLICE: 23 105 54 870-1, located at 4, Dodekanissou St.
Getting There
If you’re flying into Thessaloniki’s Macedonia Airport, you’ll need to take the bus line 78 to get into the city center. The bus also makes stops at the bus station, train station, and IKEA where there are several bus connections you can make. A one-way ticket is €0.90. If you want to take a taxi, it shouldn’t cost you much more than €15 to the city center.
You can also come in by bus or train from Athens. KTEL operates a bus line from Athens to Thessaloniki that lasts 6hr. 30min. Or take the train run by OSE from Athens, which takes about 5hr. Both will cost you between €30-40.
To get to the city center from the train station, take one of the several buses that stop at the station. If you’re at the bus station, take line number 8 to get to the train station and go from there.
Getting Around
Buses are the most common form of transportation in Thessaloniki and will take you almost anywhere. Fare is €0.90 for one way or €1 for two buses. There is no metro system. That being said, Thessaloniki is extremely walkable. To get from Ano Poli to the port takes about 15-20min. Just beware that this is a fairly hilly city, especially up near the old city.
MONEY
Tipping
In Greece, it’s normal to include around a 10% gratuity to the bill if the service warrants it. More than that is just showing off your elevated social class. With revolutionary times in Athens and surrounding areas, revealing bourgeois sympathies is not a good idea. There is no need to tip for other services, although rounding up the price to the nearest euro is not unusual.
Taxes
With the EU continually bailing Greece out of its tar pit of debt, the value-added-tax (VAT), applied to all consumer goods, will increase to a maximum 23%. Also, Greece introduced a 10% excise tax on tobacco, fuel, and alcohol. The Greek inflation rate is currently the second highest in the European Union, but rates seem to be on the path to leveling out.
SAFETY AND HEALTH
Local Laws and Police
Greek police are used to having foreigners around, but that does not mean they allow them to break the law. The purchase of pirated goods (including CDs and DVDs) is illegal; keep your receipts for proof of purchase. Taking objects or rocks from ancient sites is forbidden and can lead to fines or prison sentences. Drunk driving and indecent behavior can also result in heavy fines, arrest, and imprisonment. Although legal in Greece since 1951, homosexuality is still frowned upon socially. GLBT individuals are not legally protected from discrimination. That said, destinations like Athens, Ios, and especially Mykonos offer gay and lesbian hotels, bars, and clubs.
Drugs and Alcohol
Visitors of all ages generally have very little difficulty obtaining alcohol in Greece. In contrast, drug laws are very strict. Conviction for possession, use, or trafficking of drugs, including marijuana, will result in imprisonment and fines. Authorities are particularly vigilant at the Turkish and Albanian borders.
Natural Disasters
In one of the world’s most seismically active areas, Greece experiences frequent and occasionally large earthquakes. The most recent serious quake, in 1999, wreaked an estimated US$3 billion worth of damage and caused nearly 150 deaths and 2000 injuries in Athens. Earthquakes are unpredictable and can occur at any time of day. If there is a strong earthquake, it will probably only last one or two minutes. Protect yourself by moving under a sturdy doorway, table, or desk, and open a door to provide an escape route.
Demonastrations and Political Gatherings
Strikes and demonstrations occur frequently in Greece, especially during the never-ending economic crisis. Although generally orderly and lawful, they frequently spiral out of control: most recently, May 2011 riots and violent demonstrations involving destructive vandalism, fire, stun-grenades, tear gas, and forceful clashes between civilians and the police rocked Athens. The protests continued into summer 2011, ranging from violent, concentrated protests to city-wide strikes. Disruption of public services, such as public transportation and air traffic control, occur unexpectedly due to union strikes. Common areas for protest include the Polytechnic University area, Exharia, Omonia, Syntagma Sq. and Mavii Sq. in Athens. If a demonstration does occur during your trip, you should avoid these areas and stick to the quieter parts of the city. The islands are generally more peaceful.
STUDYING
Whether it’s the dolphins jumping in arcs on the shoreline at sunset, the ever-present Mediterranean rays, or the graceful columns of the Parthenon, something inspires thousands of students to study abroad in Greece every year.
• ARCADIA UNIVERSITY GLOBAL STUDIES: Summer- and semester-long courses with Arcadia will debrief you on everything from Greek gods to Mediterranean myths and monuments. The Arcadia Center is just a hop and skip away from Syntagma Sq., Athens’s core governmental and shopping district. (www.arcadia.edu)
• THE GREEK HOUSE: Escape the city hustle and buckle down with your alphas and omegas at the Greek House villa located in Kifissia, a calm suburb 30min. north of Athens by train. Morning and evening classes are taught by Greek professors with degrees in linguistics or philology. Some extra euro will get you conversation classes or one-on-one private tutoring to wow that cutie you keep going back to the fish market to admire. More adventurous travelers can try their hand at Greek dancing or cooking. (www.greekhouse.gr)
• HELLENIC CENTER FOR MARINE RESEARCH (HCMR): HCMR welcomes undergrads for short-term research or longer-term thesis work at their centers in Athens, Crete, Rhodes, and Kalamata. Gain access to the center’s sampling platforms, labs, and world-renowned researchers. Sample projects include sustainable management of the oceans and studies of the implementation of artificial reefs. (www.hcmr.gr)
• AHA INTERNATIONAL: With Athens as your muse, try your hand at painting, speaking and writing in the birthplace of Western culture. AHA International offers three-week summer courses in art, poetry, and Greek language, as well as longer humanities courses in the fall and spring that include archaeological field trips and cultural outings. (www.ahastudyabroad.org)
VOLUNTEERING
• SEA TURTLE PROTECTION SOCIETY OF GREECE (ARCHELON): There are more endangered turtles in Greece than there are distressed damsels in Hans Christian Andsersen fairytales. Archelon operates summer and year-round English-speaking projects aimed at protecting sea turtles and their habitats at various sites in Greece. (www.archelon.gr)
• WORLD WIDE OPPORTUNITIES ON ORGANIC FARMS (WWOOF): Awaken your inner organic olive grower or grape farmer. All opportunities are voluntary and unpaid. You’re expected to work for around 5hr. a day and BYOP (bring your own plaid). (www.wwoof.org)
• CITIZENS IN ACTION (CIA) GREECE: CiA’s projects focus on developing community, education, and culture in less developed regions of Greece. (www.citizensinaction.gr)
• AMNESTY INTERNATIONAL: If you want to fight injustice one case at a time, volunteer at Amnesty International’s Athens office. The organization seeks volunteers ready to combat evil by collecting petition signatures, working on their website, or organizing student action groups at local universities. (www.amnesty.org.gr)
WORKING
With unemployment at its highest levels since WWII, the demand for foreign labor in Greece is very low. Though times may be tough, there’s always some demand for English teachers—you’ll just have to get certified beforehand. Schools with teaching vacancies will often advertise their positions in local and national newspapers.
• OXFORD SEMINARS: Oxford courses will give you specific tips on everything from lesson-planning to techniques for teaching vocabulary and dealing with culture shock in the classroom. (www.oxfordseminars.com)
• TEFL INTERNATIONAL: This three-week course in Corinth, a town 80km west of Athens, will certify you to teach Aγγλııά (“Angliká”). Before you head on out to the orchard, you’ll need to observe the teaching masters in their natural habitat and teach a few pilot classes yourself. (www.teflcourse.com)
• SUNNY AU PAIRS: Sunny Au Pairs will hook you up with a host family free of charge. It’s like online dating, but with fewer sketchy old men and more cute kids. Families go through a verification process, so it’s safer than finding au pair work on your own. (www.sunnyaupairs.com)
• WWW.WORKAWAY.INFO: This is a good resource to connect idle hands to farms and families looking to share their homes in exchange for labor. Jobs at hostels, hotels, and nightclubs are generally found by word of mouth or by expressing interest to the owner. Just remember that working without a work permit can be grounds for deportation.
