Let’s Go Europe 2015

Throughout Hungary, the vestiges of Ottoman and communist rules can be found on the same block. Castles stand staunchly and thermal baths pool beside concrete Soviet monuments, overlooking the graves of 20th-century writers and medieval poets. Döner kebabs, bockwurst, and cheeses are peddled side by side, while Budapest locals frequent Turkish bathhouses.

But Hungary’s real draw may be the freewheeling youth and a relentless drive toward the modern. Streets are packed with hip hangouts and their patrons exude a vehemently chill attitude, making this city one of the best student urban destinations in Europe. And even though the locals might be too cool for school, they do appreciate a tenacity to learn about their culture. So make the effort and immerse yourself in all that is Hungary, with endless plates of goulash, sleepless nights at ruin pubs, and countless cups of coffee with some newfound friends.

From its river to its ruins, Budapest has a magnificence that is impossible to escape. The lush Buda hills, as well as the gushing thermal springs on which the city stands, suggest that Budapest was formed by a god with a taste for the luxurious. Man then robed the land in stunning artifices, like the impressive Parliament of Pest and the grand Buda Castle. These gems don’t bandage the city’s bloody, war-filled history but instead stand as testaments to them—reminders of what once was and as the city compasses toward a bright future. On top of the city’s rich past is a unique lifestyle. The relaxed pace of daily life along the Danube that divides the city is juxtaposed with a vibrant, fast-paced nightlife full of Budapest’s famous ruin clubs and Hungary’s infamous shots of palinka. International travelers young and old come to Budapest en masse to explore one of Europe’s most beautiful cities, giving its streets and dance floors a language of their own.

Buda Castle has undergone more facelifts than Bruce Jenner, and while the royal palace hasn’t had to put up with a Kardashian cat fight, it too has seen its fair share of war. Built between the 12th and 14th centuries, the original castle was occupied by the Ottoman invaders, who turned it into barracks and then left it to decay. During the campaign to retake Buda by the allied Christian forces, much of the palace was destroyed by heavy artillery bombardment—almost as fierce as pregnant Kim K. It wasn’t until the middle of the 18th century that the palace was completely rebuilt, only to be destroyed again less than a century later when the Hungarian revolutionary army laid siege to it during the 1848 revolution.

Finally Buda Castle caught a break towards the end of the 19th century, like Bruce at the finale of Season 2, but just as Season 3 brought a whole slew of new drama to poor Bruce, the end of WWII brought heavy artillery back to the palace when Axis forces used it as the best place to stage a last-ditch defense. The castle was reduced to smoldering wreckage.

Today Buda Castle 4.0 closely resembles its Habsburg incarnation with flowery courtyards, statues, and panoramic views of the Pest side of the Danube. Inside the palace are some of Hungary’s great museums including the Budapest History Museum as well as the National Szechenyi Library. Although it has a rough past, Buda Castle is now as flourishing and beautiful as ever. If only we could say the same about poor old Bruce…but there is always Season 10.

Free.

Buda Castle 24/7; Hungarian National Gallery T-Su 10am-6pm; Budapest Historical Museum T-F 10am-4pm and Sa-Su 10am-6pm; Szechenyi Library Tu-Sa 9am-8pm.

If more churches looked like Matthias Church on Castle Hill, every Sunday would be as celebratory as Christmas and Easter. With its colorful roof and palace-like steeples, the church is one of Budapest’s most photographed sights. Not only is a picture of Matthias Church a must, but once at the top, the incredible view overlooking the Pest side of the Danube is the perfect setting for a travel selfie that’ll rake in the likes.

Sensing the potential 3-digit worth of thumbs up social media value, the Ottomans took over the church in 1541, converting it to a mosque, but years later, the Hasburgs needed a new cover photo, defeated the Turks, sacked the city, and renovated the building to fit into the perfect little rectangle above their profile photo. Okay, so the motivation may be a bit off, but the point is that Matthias Church has seen its fair share of change.

With its cheap beer, strong shots, and never ending nights, you may find yourself waking up in Budapest still drunk. Believe it or not, there comes a time to sober up and that is for Budapest’s historical museum, House of Terror, which reminds even the wildest that Budapest was not always a party.

“Terror” reads out in a looming shadow when the sun hits Budapest’s famous museum just right. The cold, ominous exterior is only a warning of what lies inside the museum on fascism and communism in Hungary that once served as the headquarters of the Hungarian Nazis. Although to say anyone “enjoys” the House of Terror’s three floor exhibit would feel wrong, the museum is a must-see in Budapest. The rooms on the top two floors of the stone building are filled with video accounts from survivors of the terrors its named after. With informational sheets in both Hungarian and English at each room entrance, even the most historically challenged can follow along as the museum moves throughout the 20th century. If reading isn’t your thing, the museum also offers an audio tour for a fee of 1300 HUF.

The true terror does not strike, however, until you descend the elevator to the basement. A short film is shown reminding you that before this building was a museum, it truly was a house of terror, housing prisoners to be tortured in its basement. Stepping into the small cells after exiting the elevator hits this point home, sending shivers down the spine. The museum turns from a lesson in history to an emotional journey ending with the Hall of Tears that stands as a symbolic cemetery to those whose bodies were never found. Give yourself about two hours to take this journey away from the party of a tourist in present-day Budapest and into the past.

“The motherland does not have a house,” lamented Hungarian poet Milhaly Corosmarty in 1846. In response to the growing sense of Hungarian nationalism during the period, the palatial Gothic building looks more like a cathedral than a seat of government. The building is the largest in Hungary and third largest parliament in the world, towering at 96m—a number symbolizing the date of Hungary’s millennial anniversary. A view of Parliament can be found every few blocks, a constant reminder of just how superior Budapest is to your local city.

In a city full of ruins and buildings that are far older than the United States, Palace of the Arts stands out. Opened in 2005, the huge hall along the Danube is new to Budapest’s stage, but its sleek modern architecture and large theater put it front and center in the music scene. The palace is every stage mom’s fantasy: a triple threat. In it lies the Bartok National Concert Hall for music, the Ludwig Museum of contemporary art, and the Festival Theater for just about anything else.

50 years of research was put into the Bartok National Concert Hall to ensure it had heavenly acoustics. Appropriately, the huge hall looks like a Gothic cathedral, oval-shaped with 40 tons of canopy hanging overhead and one of Europe’s largest organs against the back wall. Despite the way old school interior of Bartok, don’t expect to see only the traditional operas and orchestras. A high-tech audio-visual system creates fantastic light shows and displays experimental film, ensuring that a visit to the symphony Bartok National Concert Hall will be a far cry from your fifth grade field trips.

If you’re more into visual art than music, head on over to the left wing of Palace of the Arts to the Ludwig Museum. Here you’ll find contemporary painters like Picasso and Tom Wessleman, modern Hungarian artists, and even a few creations by Yoko Ono, but please, Beatles Fans, mind your manners.

Dance, music, acting, and the inexplicable “performance art” all find homes on Palace of the Art’s Festival Theater. At just under 500 seats, a show at the Festival Theater is far more intimate than the Bartok National Concert Hall, yet possesses the same state-of-the-art technology so that your dreams of getting up close and personal with The Naked Clown may be realized.

Students 500 HUF.

Check the website calendar for dates and times of upcoming events.

To the side of Hero’s Square lies a house of heroes in the arts: The Museum of Fine Arts Budapest. While no Hungarian art is featured, the museum, which houses over 100,000 pieces, is made up of the work of international artists. Its works trace back farther than the family tree your great aunt dedicated the past 20 years of her life to cultivating. This is because its six departments include: Egyptian, Antique, Old Sculpture Gallery, and Old Painter Gallery on top of its more contemporary Modern and Graphics collections. So unless that great aunt brought it all the way back to the BC, Museum of Fine Arts has her beat.

Living in the Buda Castle, the Hungarian National Gallery is the king of Budapest, and unlike many before its time, its rule is just about perfect. The remarkable paintings and sculptures displayed by Hungarian artists from as early as the 10th century—the crucial era when soulmates hops and beer brewing found each other—live up to the magnificence of the castle. And with either an interest in history or a little imagination, the large gallery can provide for hours of entertainment.

Unless you’re one of the three Hungarian Arts Scholars out there, you’ll probably want to pay the extra 400Ft (less than $2) for the audio guide. It’ll talk you through each exhibit, tell you why exactly there’s a sculpture of a baby with missing arms, and fill you with facts to insure you kill the “History of Hungary” category on Jeopardy…which with such prime alliteration, they must have at some point.

But if you aren’t really looking for a history lesson, that doesn’t mean you should discount the gallery. The museum can be up to your own artistic interpretation. Its pieces on the second floor, famous paintings from the 19th century, look like excerpts from a movie with overly expressive actors. On top of this, their names like “The Bride,” or “Harvesters” are so generic that they’re just calling for back stories. You could spend minutes at each one, picturing things like how crunk the “Girls the Morning after the Ball” must’ve gotten the night before they were captured on canvas. The bro who snagged the one with the huge dorky smile and dreamy look in her eyes must’ve been a real fox.

While the historical Baroque section is full of figures that most of us probably don’t recognize and wars that we’re happy we didn’t live through, the Hungarian National Gallery displays each painting and statue beautifully. Taking pictures of the works is not off limits, however it does cost an extra 250Ft…and don’t try to be sneaky, museum workers are patrolling each corridor.

The third floor of the gallery reveals modern works of the 20th Century. Paintings from artists such as Lajos and Béla line the walls with fantastical, sharper strokes. Some of the works get a bit abstract, ending your time in the Hungarian National Gallery with the perfect taste of “wtf” that only art can produce.

1400Ft. Special exhibits generally around 1400Ft. Children and seniors in European Union free. Audio guide 400Ft.

Tu-Su 10am-6pm.

If it’s always been your dream to live in castle, then you’re in luck because the Four Seasons Hotel took over the gorgeous Gresham Palace in 2001. However, if you’re not a millionaire, you’re fucked, because a room could cost you over $3000 a night. Still, you can pretend you’re ridiculously wealthy or better yet, royalty for a few minutes and take a trip to the castle-like hotel.

Okay so Gresham Palace has never really housed queens and kings (except maybe for the occasional guest). In fact it was commissioned by the London based company Gresham Life Assurance Company in 1904 as a grand onsite foreign headquarters. How posh. The extravagant palace of marble was completed in 1907 and served as the offices and homes of the company’s workers. Smart as they were, these playboys left sensing the danger of WWII, leaving the palace to be overtaken by Soviet soldiers. The once beautiful palace was left in a shambled state. It remained this way until finally breaking into the hotel business.

So what good is this to you, poor boy with big dreams? Well with it’s prime real estate on the Pest side of the Chain Bridge, near Parliament, you are sure to get a big glimpse and a few pics by the breathtaking palace. If you feel so inclined, you can even step inside, and get one of the most luxurious meals the city has to offer in the Four Seasons Restaurant. Who knows, maybe this peak is the push you need to take your get rich quick scheme out of the backpack.

A ways outside Budapest’s bustling metropolis lies a graveyard of stone. The ghosts that haunt the Memento Park are scarier than the ones of your childhood sleepovers, because their stories are all too real. While communism ruled Hungary, statues of communist dictators stood tall in the streets, reminding its citizens of the laws and leaders under which they lived. When Hungary embraced a free market economy in 1989, these statues were moved to the city outskirts faster than you can say Mátyás Rákosi—pretty easy for Hungarian!

It wasn’t until architect Ákos Eled designed the open Memento Park in 1991 that these outcasts were put to use. While the majority of the park is the original statues of communist Hungary, one of its most famous is the copy of the Stalin monument…but not the whole thing. Rather, Eled’s recreation is of when the original monument was pulled from the Grandstand, leaving only Stalin’s giant bronze boots. So don’t be confused by the missing body. It’s history. And anyways, what is art without some thought-provoking simplicity?

Apart from sculptures of Marx, Lenin, and enough Hungarian dictators to build a small city with their bronze and marble bodies, the “park,” which is now much more museum-like, includes a cinema that plays a short film with English subtitles about being a spy in communist Hungary called “The Life of an Agent.” It also has Trabant—the car most commonly driven during the communist bloc—on display. Its powdered blue sides look oddly cheerful next to the dark statues.

For those who only need one hand to count all the communist dictators they know (not even including their thumb), there is a guided tour in English or Hungarian that runs a few times a day until the park’s sunset close. The sad stories and histories told in a Hungarian accent, paired with the cold eyes of the statues make the guided experience well worth the extra 7 bucks.

Although not so conveniently located, Memento Park is a sight you’ll truly never forget…something you can’t guarantee about the inside of a ruin pub!

1500Ft. English tour 1200Ft. Open daily 10am-6pm.

FOOD

A land once ruled by heavy dumplings, Budapest now offers a host of food selections from all over the globe. From its many Thai and Indian étterems (or restaurants) to its classic taco bars, burger joints, and even the occasional Michelin Star restaurant, Budapest is a welcoming place for the finest of foodies or those of us on the tightest of budgets. So do us all a favor, put your Big Mac down, and go out for some goulash soup and chicken paprika at least once—you’re hungry in Hungary, after all!

TAJ MAHAL INDIAN RESTAURANT

INDIAN $

Szondi utca 40

1 301 0447

www.tajmahal.hu/

If the richly colored tapestries and soft music of the sitar do not transport you straight from Hungary to India, then you must’ve had a sad childhood because your imagination sucks. On top of the authentic ambience of the Taj Mahal Indian Restaurant, the food can cure even the most serious of curry cravings. Even with the extra cost of naan and rice (complete necessities), the overall excellent experience at Taj Mahal is well worth each euro. The waitstaff goes above and beyond to ensure that your experience is personal. The chef himself may even make an appearance to discuss the meal—or to get his daily self-esteem boost, as the feedback is sure to be nothing but complimentary. Indian staples, from the basic naan and basmati rice to the more complex Taj Mahal Curry house special, are about as perfect as the geometry of the actual Taj Mahal. When looking to take a break from kebabs and goulash soup while maintaining enough dignity to avoid good ole Mickey D’s, take a trip to Hungary’s own Taj Mahal.

Appetizers €5-10. Entrees €15-20. Open daily noon-11pm.

TÖRÖK ÉTTEREM

KEBAB $

Six locations in districts V, VI, VII, VIII, IX, XIII.

13541756

www.istanbuletterem.hu

While one considers many questions when traveling to foreign countries, the most pressing is perhaps, “Without Taco Bell, where will I satisfy my late night munchies?” Never fear, because Budapest offers an even better answer than Doritos-shelled beef: the kebab. Kebab stands decorate every corner of Budapest (kind of like Starbucks in Seattle), and Török Étterem stands above the rest. At just €3-4 per beef or chicken kebab, Török Étterem will thrill your taste buds and tickle your wallet, too. What separates Török Étterem from the millions of other kebab stands is the freshness of its ingredients. The meat is sliced from a large revolving cooker and is prepared to order so that it is in peak juiciness when served. Török Étterem also has an outdoor seating area, allowing you to take a proper pit stop in between bar hopping.

Kebabs €3-4. Pizza €1-2 per slice. Open daily 11am-5am. Delivery 11am-10:45pm.

BOOKCAFE (LOTZ ÉTTEREM)

SANDWICHES, SALADS $

Andrassy ut 39

1 461 5830

www.facebook.com/pages/Book-Cafe-Lotz-Terem/

Although located right on Andrassy, Budapest’s busiest shopping street, Lottz Étterem or the Bookcafe, may be missed by the average tourist but is a must-see—even if you aren’t keen on buying the overpriced food. Hidden away on the second floor of Alexandra Bookstore, the ballroomesque interior, masterfully painted walls, and ceilings lined with gold molding will make you feel as though you’re dining in a Fabergé egg. Unfortunately, you can’t judge the food of Bookcafe by its spectacular cover. The sandwich and salad menu is small, simple, and expensive. Items such as goat cheese and fig salad in salt quiche are dressed to excess and run about €8 for a few bites. Compared to the entree menu, the desserts at Bookcafe feel like a steal, ranging between €2-4. Somehow, the comfortable seating and friendly waitstaff make the not super memorable food worth a trip to this hidden away cafe. So head over to Bookcafe with a camera (not an appetite), pick up a book from downstairs, and settle in with a nice cappuccino.

Drinks €2-8. Entrees €6-10. Desserts €2-4. Open daily 10am-10pm.

CYRANO

TRADITIONAL $$

Kristóf tér 7

1 266 4747

http://cyrano.hu/

For the average backpacker, a Michelin recommended restaurant is out of the question, but a badass backpacker knows when it’s worth it to fuck practicality and splurge. Cyrano is worth it. At prices like this, a meal at Cyrano will probably be your only food of the day. However, you won’t have to worry about fulfilling your daily calorie count thanks to the rich, cheesy, and creamy Hungarian-style cuisine. Take your time savoring every bite of the three-course lunch special and think of each small, gourmet serving as its own meal. With seating outside in the heart of Budapest’s shopping district, there’s no shortage of things to look at, so take a moment between filtering the pictures you just snapped of your Instagram-worthy plate and observe. The sidewalk feels more like an international runway than a strip of cement. Watch ladies who could be in Vogue and tweens who are surely featured on Pinterest pass by. Regardless, the service here will make you feel like royalty, too. The friendly and attentive waitstaff add to the glamour of Cyrano, and their experience dealing with clueless foreigners may be your lifesaver as you navigate the menu full of “Hungary’s Culinary Adventure!”

Three-course lunch special €20. Entrees €20-50. Open daily 8am-midnight.

MANGA COWBOY

SANDWICHES $

Ráday utca 31

1 215 8079

www.mangacowboy.hu/en/home

Let’s be real, who can pass up a restaurant called Manga Cowboy? Even if you’re a vegetarian with a distaste for Asian food, this American-Asian fusion burger stop is a must.

Although Manga Cowboy! produces delicious, high quality food, it’s menu is a little bit all over the place. Manga Cowboy! offers everything from an assortment of huge “Sumo” sandwiches to American, Asian, and Bavarian (?!) burgers, ramen soups, matzo ball soups, wasabi tuna, ribs, something ambiguously called “Elvis,” and to top it all off, Oreo cheesecake. If you have no clue what you’re hungry for, you might spend hours just gawking at the menu. If you’re struggling, close your eyes and select one of their burgers. You won’t be disappointed, as this silly little cowboy boasts some of the best patties in Budapest.

For the health conscious, Manga Cowboy! has you covered…almost. Its “Almost Healthy” menu has a couple of salads to keep your diet in check. But c’mon, if you’ve already committed to going to a place called Manga Cowboy! in Budapest, your diet can take a hit.

Burgers €8-12. Open daily 9am-midnight.

HUMMUS BAR

MEDITERRANEAN $

Október 6 utca 19

1 354 0108

www.hummusbar.hu/

“Believe you can achieve the impossible” is written on the wall of Hummus Bar in Budapest. This may sound a little pretentious for a restaurant that just makes hummus and falafel. But the great achievement comes in how this place makes hummus and falafel so damn sexy.

Hummus Bar Budapest may just be one of the hippest, small fast food joints in all of Europe. Although the restaurant itself is not much to look at (takeout is just as popular as eating in house), its menu has a wide range of hummus, from classic Hummus Tahini to extravagant Hummus ShakShuka Merguez, which includes tomato sauce, peppers, onions, spices, a poached egg, and a beef and lamb sausage. If you’re aiming to achieve your own impossible by finishing that bad boy, make sure to go to the Hummus Bar’s main location on Oktober St., as its menu is the most complete (some Hummus Bars serve only vegetarian menus). Whether simple or off the wall, each hummus meal is served with delicious laffa bread.

On top of badass hummuses, the Hummus Bar serves falafel that they claim to be the best ever. Their reports may be a bit biased, but regardless, you won’t regret testing it out for yourself.

Falafel €3.50-€5.50. Hummus €4.50-€8. Open daily 11:30am-11pm.

NIGHTLIFE

You know that crazy uncle who always somehow manages to bring the party to the most boring of family reunions? Maybe not, but if Central Europe is one big family reunion, Budapest is the uncle with the alcohol. With everything from your standard nightclub to parties in baths, on boats, and in ruins, this wild city offers a chance for you to strike out in your highest heels or get your boogie on in your Chuck Taylor’s every night of the week.

INSTANT

VENUE, BAR

Nagymez utca 38

1 311 0704

http://instant.co.hu/en

Instant is a psychedelic maze full of optical illusions, flashing lights, and animal heads whose eyes may or may not be following its drunk inhabitants. While that may sound like a nightmare straight out of That 70s Show, Instant is a must-go if you want to experience the best of Budapest’s nightlife. So first, close your air passages while crossing the barrier of smoke that serves as Instant’s greeting—it’s long entryway is the only smoker-friendly room in the joint—and then open your mind to Budapest’s adult funhouse. With over 20 rooms and four stories, everyone is guaranteed a spot on one of Instant’s many dance floors, each with its own DJ and bar. The music ranges based on room. Anything from the ultimate American “turn up” jams to techno remixes blasts through the halls of this ruin pub. While very popular amongst tourists, Instant is also a go-to for locals, a testament to the quality of the bar.

Beer €2-4. Mixed Drinks €5-10.

SZIMPLA KERT

BAR

Kazinczy utca 14

20 261 8669

www.szimpla.hu/

Budapest’s first and most famous ruin pub, Szimpla Kert, is possibly the most poppin’ and certainly the most trippy spot to be on any summer night in the city. While smoking cigarettes is not permitted in the central area of the bar, fruit flavored smoke from Hookah will assault your nose before you even step within Szimpla’s graffitied arches. The drinks are on the expensive side for Budapest, but with no entrance charge, think of the extra dollar as going toward entertainment ranging from the experimental film being played in the pub’s very own cinema-themed room to the screaming girls spraying whipped cream on each other and singing in every language they know. The bar fills up fairly early with an international crowd. However, if you’re looking to really throw down on the dance floor, Szimpla may not be the spot. Instead, chill with everyone else in one of Szimpla’s many cave-like rooms decorated by monitors flashing patterned lights that make you feel wavy in more ways than one. With its relaxed, low energy, Szimpla is an ideal first stop on a night of bar hopping.

Beer €2-4. Mixed Drinks €5-10. Open daily noon-4am.

AKVARIUM

VENUE, BAR

Erzsébet tér 2

30 506 2632

akvariumklub.hu

In the heart of the city center and right of Budapest’s busiest road, Akvarium is impossible to miss. Akvarium is a hot spot in Budapest because of its versatility. Outside its terraced bar are huge pieces of local Hungarian art, while shirtless hipsters with cutoff jeans (or homeless people—the difference not always obvious) lounge around the pool, cooling off in the hot summer sun.

At night, these hipsters put on shirts and head to Akvarium’s outdoor bar. Oftentimes an up-and-coming Hungarian band will play in the early evening, warming up the audience for nighttime festivities. The atmosphere changes from organic to funky as colored lights illuminate the pool and steps of the bar. Inside, you’ll find another bar and a dance floor where locals and travelers alike come to party rock, while outside films or big sporting events are sometimes projected in the open air cinema.

Akvarium’s sleek, fresh vibe is a nice contrast to the ruin pubs of Budapest but is just as hip. And if you’re burning up on the dance floor, you can go back to the club’s grassy roof and watch Budapest’s very own big wheel, Sziget Eye, turn over your head.

Cover €5-10, includes 1 drink. Open M-W 6pm-2am, Th-Sa 6pm-5am, Su 4pm-2am.

FOGASHAZ

CLUB, PUB

Akácfa utca 51

1 783 8820

www.fogashaz.hu/

Although Fogasház (“house of teeth”) was originally a dentist’s office, its toothy logo and name are the only remaining traces of the misery the building once served. A last stop on many pub crawls, Fogasház is the perfect late-night place for those looking to burn off the calories of the previous hours’ worth of drinking. Like any standard ruin pub, Fogasház has trendy decor, cheap alcohol, and an international, primarily tourist crowd. Unlike its peers, however, Fogasház boasts its versatility, housing a theater, art gallery, exit game, restaurant, and, of course, a bar. Though it has many unique facets, what separates Fogasház from just another pub or club is its mind boggling energy. Take this example: at just about anywhere in Fogasház, you can chat with someone from just about anywhere on the globe at just about any level of functioning. Then you can escape to the next room where you can show off your twerking skills to the beats of live Hungarian rappers. After that, you can can take a right and dance to some throwback American jams in a wild mob, where you might just crowd surf thanks to an Irish stag party (at least that was one particular researcher’s experience). When your body can no longer take the high impact workout, Fogasház’s convenient location in downtown Pest makes the walk to the night bus or back to your hostel manageable no matter how anaerobic your dancing was.

Beer and wine €2-4. Mixed drinks €5-10. Pizza €1-2. Open M-Sa 2pm-4am, Su 4pm-4am.

ESSENTIALS

Practicalities

• TOURIST OFFICES: Tourinform arranges tours and accommodations (V, Suto utca 2, 01 429 97 51, open M-F 9-6:30pm, Sa 9am-2:30pm). The Budapest Card provides discounts, unlimited public transportation, and admission to most museums.

• ATMS: English-language ATMs (bankamatik, bankomat) can be found on almost every corner. If your account is at a foreign bank, cash withdrawal will cost you extra. Most ATMs dispense Turkish lire. If you want to withdraw American dollars or euro, try the banks around Sirkeci Train Station and İstiklal Cad.

• LUGGAGE STORAGE: 24hr. luggage storage (Emanet Bagaj) is available at Atatürk International Airport (0212 465 3442 10-20 TL per day) and Sirkeci Train Station (0539 885 2105 4-7 TL for 4hr., 0.50 TL per hr. thereafter; max. 4 days).

• GLBT RESOURCES: Time Out Istanbul magazine provides a good overview of the city’s GLBT establishments. Some other organizations of interest are Lambda (Tel Sok. 28/5, 4th fl., Beyoğlu 0212 245 7068, advice line 0212 244 5762 www.lambdaistanbul.org Open F-Su 3-8pm; hotline open M-Tu 5-7pm and F-Su 5-7pm), trans-focused Istanbul LGBTT (Atıf Yılmaz Cad. Öğüt Sok. 18/4, Beyoğlu 0212 252 1088 www.istanbul-lgbtt.org), and Ankara-based Kaos GL (0312 230 0358 http://news.kaosgl.com).

• LAUNDROMATS: Most hostels will do your laundry for a small fee. If you’d prefer a laundromat, try Beybuz (Topçekerler Sok. 7A 0212 249 5900 Wash 3 TL per kg. Dry cleaning 10 TL. Open 24hr.) or Şık Çamaşır Yıkama. (Güneşli Sok. 1A 0212 245 4375 15 TL per load. Open M-Sa 8:30am-8pm.)

• INTERNET: Sultanahmet Square offers free Wi-Fi. İstiklal Caddesi supposedly has free Wi-Fi as well, but coverage is spotty. One of the best internet cafes in town is Net Club (Büyükparmakkapı Sok. 8/6, 3rd fl. Just off Istiklal Cad., a few blocks from Taksim Sq. 1.25 TL per hr. Open 24hr.), but there are many others around İstiklal and a few near the Sultanahmet tram stop. In most cafes, expect to pay about 2 TL per hr.

• POST OFFICES: Post offices in Budapest are generally open from M-F 8am-6pm, though some hours vary. To inquire about specific hours call 06 40 46 46 46. Postal services in Budapest are run by Maygar Post. Their website is all in Hungarian, so to find the post office nearest you, your best bet is use Google Maps. The main office is on Petöfi Sandor St., though there are many post offices in Budapest in each of its districts, all offering the same services.

Emergency

• GENERAL MEDICAL EMERGENCY: 112.

• DOMESTIC INQUIRIES: 198.

• INTERNATIONAL INQUIRIES: 199.

• IN CASE OF FIRE: 112.

• 24HR. MEDICAL ASSISTANCE IN ENGLISH (FALCK SOS HUNGARY): 06 1 2000 100.

• POLICE: 01 438 80 80. The office for tourist police is located inside the Tourinform office at V, Suto utca 2. You can get here through the metro lines: M1, M2, or M3 at the Deak ter stop. Or you can reach them by phone at 01 438 80 80. The office is open 24hr.

• LATE-NIGHT PHARMACIES: Look for green signs labeled Apotheke, Gyogyszertar, or Pharmacie. Many pharmacies and drugstores are not open 24hr. Déli Pharmacy (XII district, Alkotás út 1/b), Óbuda Pharmacy (II district, Vörösvári út 84), Szent Margit Pharmacy (II district, Frankel Leó út 22), and Teréz Pharmacy (VI district, Teréz krt. 41) are all 24hr. pharmacies. The website budapest-moms.com also has a full list of 24hr. pharmacies.

• MEDICAL SERVICES: The majority of hospitals and clinics in Budapest are English speaking. Two sure bet 24hr. clinics are FirstMed Center (06 1 224 9090) and Rózsakert Medical Center (06 1 391 5903). The US embassy also maintains a list of English-speaking doctors. Call 112 if faced with a serious emergency. You should not hesitate to contact the police in Budapest if you are the victim of a crime. Be sure to carry a valid passport, as police have the right to ask for identification. Police can sometimes be unhelpful if you are the victim of a currency exchange scam; in this instance, it may be better to seek advice from your country’s embassy or consulate.

Getting There

The Budapest international airport, Budapest Ferihegy Airport, is 16km southeast of downtown Budapest. For general information regarding the airport, call 36 1 296 9696. For information regarding flight details, call 36 1 296 7000. The airport has ATMs and many exchange bureaus, but avoid exchanging currency at the airport as nearly every block in downtown Budapest has an exchange station that offers far better rates.

There are many ways to get into the city from the airport. All major car rental companies have stations inside the airport. The airport also offers a minibus service that will take you to your final destination in the city. Prices range depending on address, but the minibus is guaranteed to be less than a taxi, but more than a standard bus.

The airport also provides a public bus, BKV number 200E, that goes to M3 station Kbánya-Kispest (blue line), about 20min. away. You’ll need to transfer from here to the metro, which will take you straight into the city center.

Then there are the infamous taxis, the fastest way of getting to the center of Budapest but also the most expensive.

Getting Around

By Taxi

Of course, taxis are also widely available in Budapest. Note that taxi rates are not government regulated. Therefore, using taxis runs quite a risk of emptying your pocketbook. Independent taxis are especially dangerous but not always easy to spot. Ask your hostel or hotel for the number of a reliable taxi company, which you should call if you need a taxi’s services. While it may look glamorous to flag down a cab, in Budapest, this may just be your bank account’s swan song.

Public Transportation

Almost no sight or activity is a far walk in Budapest. However, Budapest’s public transportation company, BKV, offers bus, trolley bus, tram, and metro services, making it easy to maneuver the city for the time or movement impaired. BKV’s services run daily from 4:30am-11pm. Tickets must be bought and presented before entering the bus or station. Tickets are cheap at 300 Ft (€1) per trip. If you plan on using public transportation a lot, look for deals like 24hr. or 72hr. unlimited or 10-ticket passes. These can be found at all metro stations where regular tickets are sold. Maps are at each metro station. The main station is Deák tér Station, where all lines interconnect. Budapest also offers a night bus, which runs every 15min-1hr. from 11pm-4am. Tickets are bought on board the night bus, and security officers now stand guard to make sure every party animal pays. All information on public transportation, specific pricing, and schedules can be found at www.bkv.hu/en.Icı.

gyr

The charming, Italian Renaissance-style Gyr that exists today is the sequel its predecessor, which was burnt down in the 16th century by its own commander, Kristóf Lamberg, during the Ottoman occupation in order to keep it from the claws of the invading Turks (fittingly, Gyr means “burnt city”). While the cobblestone streets and decoratively molded buildings of the Gyr you see today—most still over 400 years old—may not be the original, the feel of the city certainly is. The culture of Gyr is rather homogenous. Here, English is rarely spoken as small-town Hungarians come together for a weekend getaway or trip to the theater. Here, friends recognize each other on the streets or in one of Gyr’s popular pubs. Here is a strong community based on familiarity and trust. For the outsider, Gyr’s intimacy may seem intimidating, but its beautiful Raba river, many statues, and old world charm are undeniable.

SIGHTS

RADO HOLM

PARK

Hid street 12

If the peaceful yet charming alleyways and back roads of Gyor are not tranquil enough for you, 1) check your pulse, but 2) Gyor has an even more quiet, hidden getaway. In the middle of the Raba double bridge lies this small island. Don’t read the world “island” and go looking for Hawaii. If you wanted a real tropical paradise, you should’ve gone to the Bahamas. Instead Rado Holm is a small park. It is lush, green, and has enough weeping willows for a whole soccer team of girls to play Pocahontas. Locals are oftentimes seen in this park sunbathing, picnicking, or just sitting and daydreaming. On top of the profound is a lot of PDA as Gyor’s youth bring wine, cheese, and hormones to the park throughout summer days. So bring your own lover and a bottle of wine (if the two are synonymous, even better!) and escape the already chill city for its Antarctica of relaxed at Rado Holm.

Free. Open 24hr.

FOOD

PÁLFFY’TÁLIA

ITALIAN $

Széchenyi tér 3

96 524680

www.palffyetterem.hu/hun/

Full of family gatherings, parties, and ladies who lunch, Palffy Italia hosts possibly half of downtown Gyr on any given sunny day. And Palffy deserves its popularity. Not only is the decor and location of the large restaurant prime, but Palffy Italia’s food is also on par. Its chicken may even be a birdie.

Palffy Italia is not a place for a quick bite. It offers many delicious courses. Try one of its soups, ranging from a deliciously classic Tuscan Tomato to one featuring coffee lamb. While perhaps most popular for its thin, family-size gourmet pizzas, the menu at Palffy Italia offers a range of pastas, salads, and meats—most featuring everyone’s favorite artery blocker, mozzarella cheese. And if your meal isn’t creamy enough already, Palffy’s specialty desserts, like Nutella Cake, are sure to do you in.

Although the waitstaff may not perfectly understand English—and most certainly won’t comprehend your horrid attempts at sounding out Hungarian—they are patient and excellent hosts. Most dishes at Palffy’s Italia range from €10-20, making the classy deliciousness less of a splurge than you were expecting.

Entrees €10-15. Open M-W 5-11:30pm, F-Su noon-11:30pm.

get a room!

GRÓF CZIRÁKY PANZIÓ GYR

HOTEL $$

Bécsi kapu tér 8

96 528 466

www.hotelcziraky.hu/?lang=en

A 3min. walk from Széchenyi tér, Gyr’s main square, but tucked away in a secluded corner of the city center, Gróf Cziráky Panzió Gyr is the perfect blend of peace and proximity. The moment you see the quaint yellow building of Gróf Cziráky Panzió, you’ll be in love. It embodies the best of the old world feel that Gyr has to offer. And your love will prove more than skin deep, as Gróf Cziráky Panzió’s staff and rooms are equally charming.

The small hotel is three floors of rooms, each with a small private bath and television. If you’ve been staying in hostels, Gróf Cziráky Panzió’s cozy rooms will feel like your own home…except with a maid to bring you fresh towels and make your bed each day. On top of the luxuries of having your own shower, Gróf Cziráky Panzió serves a complimentary breakfast spread each morning down in its basement, which operates as a restaurant at night.

Being as small as it is, there are some things Gróf Cziráky Panzió isn’t able to offer. Good Wi-Fi and a public computer are two…but c’mon, you’re in Hungary, get off Facebook and go see some stuff. There also isn’t air-conditioning. Fortunately, while laying naked and exposed until you eventually fall asleep is always an option when dealing with the heat, the previously-mentioned charming staff would be more than willing to supply you with a fan, so just ask.

Dorms €35; doubles €48. Reception open 6am-7pm.

BAROSS BOUTIQUE APARTMAN

APARTMENT $$

Baross Gábor u. 28

70 232 1971

https://hu-hu.facebook.com/barossboutique

While the old world feel of Gyr is probably what drew you to this small Hungarian city (if not, then what are you doing here?!), it’s sometimes a relief to relax with some modern friends: namely, cable TV and a big, comfy couch. At Baross Boutique Apartman, you and your two special friends get your own space above one of Gyr’s most popular streets in city center. And not only do you get to crash with these two homies, but Baross Boutique Apartman studio apartments include a private entrance, small kitchen and dining table, a bathroom, and even your very own bed. If walls could talk, the ones at Baross Boutique Apartman would probably discuss indie music, Thoreau, and cappuccinos with skim milk—that’s how hip they are. This trendy interior is a surprisingly nice contrast with the crown molded, stone buildings outside the apartment windows. Lean your head a little farther out the window and you’ll find a host of shops and cafes along the cobblestone road. The location is ideal: the apartments are only a 5min walk from the train station and Gyr National Theatre, and 2min from the central square. The only danger with such prime real estate is the ease at which you could get gelato—you wouldn’t even have to change out of your boxers! But if slippered gelato runs sound like a dream, then book a few nights in a Baross Boutique Apartman studio apartment.

Studio apartment €65-95. Reception 24 hr.

JOHN BULL PUB

BAR $

Aradi vértanúk útja 3

96 618 320

www.johnbullpub.hu/

When you think of pub food, the first thing that comes to mind is probably greasy burgers, greasier fries, and, if possible, a waiter with the greasiet hair. Fortunately, that’s just not the case at “John Bull Pub” in Gyr. Maybe it’s the language barrier, maybe it’s just that the chef at John Bull is damn good, but this restaurant’s pub food is a whole lot of gourmet.

While the corner John Bull Pub sits on is not so busy, its dining room and outdoor seating are as bustling as the heart of Gyr’s city center (which is only a few blocks away). The menu has a wide assortment of savory gourmet goodies, like an A-Z option of pastas, salads, chicken, veal, and its most famous steak. And if perusing the menu like it’s your favorite board on Pinterest isn’t enough, John Bull Pub has classic sports bar entertainment: TV.

The waitstaff, while they may not speak English, are still helpful with the menu. Through a series of gestures, they’ll point you in a delicious direction. But if you are a bit nervous to engage in a salivating game of charades, splurge a little and try one of the pub’s juicy steaks.

Entrees €10-20. Open M 10am-10pm, Tu-Sat 10am-midnight, Su 10am-10pm.

NIGHTLIFE

YOLO PUB

BAR

Baross Gábor út 5

30 252 0100

https://hu-hu.facebook.com/yolopubgyor

When was the last time you heard someone say “YOLO” without any irony? Probably never. Well, in Gyor all of your ironic lingo can be taken a little too serious at the Yolo Pub.

While essentially just a dark basement with a black light, Yolo Pub is the hip hangout for Gyr’s youth. Hungarians stand outside the hole-in-the wall entrance in gaggles, ready to “turn up.” And with a name like “Yolo,” you know the turn up can’t involve just your standard chill pub with a bit of dancing. Instead, Yolo Pub often hosts giant beer pong tournaments. Not to rain on anyone’s parade, but in Hungary, the cups are usually white, although the cheap beer and ridiculous drinking games hosted by Yolo Pub are sure to make you feel all dormy regardless. So if you’re above the age of 25, you may want to reconsider Yolo Pub. While not many in the local pub are able to speak English, pong tends to be a universal language, so if you think you have what it takes to show Hungary’s youth the superiority of your red cup trained toss, hit up Yolo club.

Entry fee varies based on planned entertainment. Beer and wine €2-4. Mixed drinks €5-10. Cash only. Hours vary.

ESSENTIALS

Practicalities

• TOURIST OFFICES: Tourinform arranges tours and accomodations. The Tourinform in Gyr is between the train station and downtown at Baross Gábor út 21 (96 336 817).

• POST OFFICES: The main post office in Gyr can be found at Bajcsy-Zsilinszky út 46, right across from the Gyr National Theatre. It’s open M-F 8am-6pm.

Emergency

• GENERAL MEDICAL EMERGENCY: 112

• HUNGARIAN POLICE DEPARTMENT: 107

• INTERNATIONAL COUNTRY CODE: +36

• IN CASE OF FIRE: 105

• 24HR. MEDICAL ASSISTANCE IN ENGLISH (FALCK SOS HUNGARY): 06 1 2000 100.

• TOURIST POLICE: There is no tourist police office in Gyr, but the Gyr City Police are ready to assist in an emergency. The Gyr City Police office can be found at Zrínyi utca 54 and can be telephoned at 96 520 000.

• PHARMACY: Look for green signs labeled Apotheke, Gyogyszertar, or Pharmacie. There are six pharmacies in Gyr, three of them all clustered around Gyr National Theatre. Aranyhajó gyógyszertár (Jedlik Ányos utca 16) has a selection of medicines and is open M-F 7am-6pm and Sa 7am-2pm. Most pharmacies are not open on weekends, and none are open 24hr. For serious medical emergencies, call 112.

• MEDICAL SERVICES: Because English is not widely spoken in Gyr, the Petz-Aladár Teaching Hospital, which offers all services besides open-heart and transplant surgery, is recommended for tourists. It is one of the biggest hospitals in Hungary and located at Zrínyi utca 13 (96 418 244.

• LOCAL LAWS AND POLICE: You should not hesitate to contact the police in Budapest if you are the victim of a crime. Be sure to carry a valid passport, as police have the right to ask for identification. Police can sometimes be unhelpful if you are the victim of a currency exchange scam; in this instance, it may be better to seek advice from your country’s embassy or consulate.

Getting There

The Gyr International Airport, Gyr-Pér Airport, has not been in use since December 2013. Therefore the closest airport is the Budapest international airport, Budapest Ferihegy Airport 16km southeast of downtown Budapest. For general information regarding the airport call 1 296 9696; for information regarding flight details call 1 296 7000. Gyr is about a 1hr. 30min. drive from Budapest. Highway M1 connects the city with the capital. Check out www.elvira.hu to see train listings from Budapest to Gyr. Trains between the two cities depart fairly regularly from one of Budapest’s Located between Western and Eastern Europe, Hungary is a country of a millennium of riveting history and a beautiful, unique language. Most opportunities are centered in Budapest, but many programs offer trips to other charming cities, and other Central European countries. Studying, volunteering, or working in Hungary will leave room for countless crazy nights of dancing to folk, underground, and techno music and drinking pálinka.

BEYOND TOURISM

STUDY

Most educational opportunities are located at well-respected universities in Budapest and most include full-year, semester, and summer programs.

• BUDAPEST SEMESTER IN MATHEMATICS: The Budapest Semester in Mathematics is said to be the most prestigious undergraduate study abroad program in mathematics. For 14 weeks, students take classes influenced by the Hungarian tradition of mathematical thinking. (1-507-786-3114 www.budapestsemesters.com)

• LEXIA: BUDAPEST AREA STUDIES AND CULTURE: Immerse yourself in Hungarian history, art, politics, and society through culture seminars. Visit less touristy locations such as Transylvania and Lake Balaton while working on a research project such as “Magyar Minorities outside Hungary”. (1-617-945-2621 www.lexiaintl.org)

• CIEE BUDAPEST: CENTRAL EUROPEAN STUDIES: Students take a variety of courses while exploring Budapest, other cities of Hungary, and Transylvania. Qualified students can take advantage of internships at local newspapers, NGOs, and even Hungarian ministries. (1-800-407-8839 www.ciee.org)

• NRCSA: BUDAPEST, HUNGARY: You will live in the homes of native Hungarian speakers while learning the language with private or semi-private tutors. Choose from standard, intensive, and super intensive programs. (1-888-678-6211 www.nrcsa.com)

• AFS: GAP YEAR IN HUNGARY: High school or gap year students live with host families while attending Hungarian public schools. (1-800-237-4636 www.afsusa.org)

VOLUNTEER

There are several volunteer projects aimed at helping the lowest socioeconomic classes and areas affected by natural disasters. Budapest is also always open to volunteers.

• AIESEC: AIESEC, a youth-run organization, offers several projects to those who wish to help Hungary grow through work with NGOs. Past and current projects include interning in kindergartens, career planning for high school students, and more. (46-0-185-01-597 www.aiesec-uppsala.se)

• WORKAWAY INFO: Find hostels, summer camps, and families looking for international and English-speaking volunteers on this database. (www.workaway.info)

• WWOOF: WWOOF Hungary has dozens of organic farms on the beautiful great plains as well as just outside of Budapest. The website offers free memberships to everyone. (www.wwoof.hu)

• HABITAT FOR HUMANITY: Help vulnerable groups and low-income families affected by the economic crisis or focus on natural disaster protocols through Habitat for Humanity’s projects in Hungary. (36 1-374-0606 www.habitat.hu)

• VOLUNTEERS FOR PEACE: The Volunteers for Peace website lists affordable and rewarding opportunities. For example, volunteers can help organize English learning sessions for under-privileged rural children. (1-802-540-3060 www.vfp.org)

WORK

• CENTRAL EUROPEAN TEACHING PROGRAM (CETA): CETA recruits native English teachers to work in one of about 100 Hungarian public schools. Contracts are 10 months long and include accommodation. (1-503-287-4977 www.cetp.info)

• TEFL INSTITUTE: Become a certified TEFL teacher after this four-week intensive course. Tuition includes job placement assistance. (1-773-880-5141 www.teflinstitute.com)

• LANGUAGE CORPS: Language Corps offers a four-week TESOL Certification program in Budapest. Many participants find teaching jobs after completing training. (1-877-216-3267 www.languagecorps.com)

• BUDAPEST JOBS: Budapest Jobs is an English-language database that has freelance, full-time, part-time, and student job listings in Budapest. (www.budapestjobs.net)

major train stations, the Keleti, Nyugati, or Déli. Gyr’s train station is about a two block walk from the city center.

Getting Around

All tourist attractions, hotels, and restaurants are located in Gyr’s city center. Anything can be reached by foot in under 15min.

hungary essentials

MONEY

Although part of the European Union, Hungary’s official currency is the forint (Ft).

Currency Exchange

Hungary is part of the European Union, so euro are widely accepted, though its official current is the forint (Ft). Tipping: a 10% tip is customary in all situations where the customers and service workers come face to face. Most tips, however, are already added on to the bill. Taxes: goods, products, and services in Hungary are subject to a value-added tax of 25% (a reduced tax of 12% is applied to basic consumer goods). Ask for a VAT return form at points of purchase to enjoy tax-free shopping. Present it at customs upon leaving the country along with your receipts and the unused goods. Refunds can be claimed at Tax Free Shopping Offices, found at most airports, road borders, and ferry stations, or by mail.

Tipping and Taxes

Tipping is customary in all situations where the customers and service workers—waiters, taxi drivers, and hotel porters—come face to face. Depending upon how satisfied you are with the service, plan to tip 10-15%. Goods, products, and services in Hungary are subject to a value added tax (VAT) of 27% (a reduced tax of 18% is applied to basic consumer goods). Non-EU visitors who are taking these goods home unused may be refunded this tax for purchases totaling over 48,000Ft per store. When making purchases, request a VAT form and present it at a Tax Free Shopping Office, found at most airports, road borders, and ferry stations, or by mail. Refunds must be claimed within six months.

SAFETY AND HEALTH

Local Laws and Police

You should not hesitate to contact the police in Budapest if you are the victim of a crime. Be sure to carry a valid passport, as police have the right to ask for identification. Police can sometimes be unhelpful if you are the victim of a currency exchange scam; in this instance, it may be better to seek advice from your country’s embassy or consulate.

Drugs and Alcohol

Avoid public drunkenness as it will jeopardize your safety. In Hungary, drinking is permitted at age 18. Marijuana is entirely illegal throughout the country. Carrying drugs across an international border—considered to be drug trafficking—is a serious offense that could land you in prison.

Smoking is incredibly popular in Budapest. If you are sensitive to cigarette smoke, ask for a non-smoking room in a hotel or hostel, or to be seated in the non-smoking area of restaurants.