If you haven’t yet heard that Ireland is the land of shamrocks, shillelaghs, and 40 shades of green, you should probably purchase a television, a copy of Darby O’Gill and the Little People, or a guide to Western culture since 1855. Surprisingly prominent in the international imagination for an island of sixmillion people, Ireland is a place that the rest of the world feels it understands very well, and the Irish themselves find much more complex. Their native country was originally chopped up into several dozen regional kingships, and today it’s still split between two different countries, two different religions, and 11 different Wikipedia disambiguations. (Eight-seven percent of native Irish find that last division to be the most contentious.)
OK, we made that last statistic up. It’s still no wonder, though, that Ireland and “Irishness” can be difficult to categorize. Its two capitals—Belfast in the North, and Dublin in the Republic—are at once the least and most “Irish” cities on the island. Belfast, home to the island’s largest Orangemen parade and some its strongest pro-British sympathies, is Ireland’s second-largest city and the one-time centerpiece of the iconic, tragic Troubles. Dublin, capital of the Republic and site of the Easter Rising, is increasingly urban and international, making it feel more like modern London than magical Glocca Morra. However, these cities’ entanglement with issues of national identity, history, and globalization is a lot more Irish than that Claddagh ring your friend paid €50 for. Like pouring a perfect stout, dancing with Michael Flatley, or spelling a one-syllable word in Gaelic, visiting Ireland should be a wonderfully complicated experience—otherwise you’re not doing it right.
greatest hits
• REJOYCE. At the James Joyce Centre, pay homage to one of the fathers of literary Modernism.
• CLUBLIN. When you’re fully saturated with Guinness and want to abandon the pubs for the clubs, look no further than The Workman’s Club, one of the best ways to end a night in Dublin.
• PRIDE OF BELFAST. Immerse yourself in the history of the Titanic in Belfast’s Titanic Quarter. As they proudly say, “It was fine when it left us.”
As the dominant cities in Ireland, Dublin and Belfast attract most of the island’s students. Fun is among these cities’ main attractions, but jthe fact that the young people here party hard doesn’t mean they don’t work hard, too. Trinity College, Dublin, Ireland’s foremost university, is among Europe’s top centers of learning. You’ll find it just off Grafton St., and it is an integral part of Dublin life, hosting Ireland’s national library and putting on public events like June’s Trinity College Dublin Shakespeare Festival, which features over 50 outdoor performances across the city. The 17,000-student University College Dublin, meanwhile, is about 4km south of the city center. In Belfast, there’s an entire University District around Queen’s University Belfast. The campus is beautiful enough to justify a tourist visit, and, with 25,000 students around, you might not leave.
It’s all too easy to think you’ve figured Dublin out. All the major landmarks are within 15min. of each other. The National Gallery took you an hour to walk through. The first pub you went to served a great pint of Guinness. Pat yourself on the back, but sooner or later Dublin’s going to impress you. Maybe you’ll stumble upon the enormous Phoenix Park and get lost for a couple hours (for such a massive park, it only seems to have three exits). Maybe you’ll realize that Dublin has two renowned modern art galleries, or that the pub you went to is one of thousands—and no, it wouldn’t be a productive use of your time to have a pint of Guinness in all of them (at least try one of the craft brews). Maybe you’ll have a deliriously good meal in an up-and-coming neighborhood like Smithfield or Stoneybatter. Point is, you’ll learn your lesson. Dublin’s been around for millennia, but it’s not a museum piece like other European cities—the cityscape is changing (especially down by the quays), new bars and restaurants pop up daily, and the warhorse attractions still hold up pretty damn well (with the exception of the Natural History Museum, which is almost as endangered as the species it exhibits).
SIGHTS
Vikings, beer, and prisons. Dublin’s attractions are a motley crew.
TRINITY COLLEGE
COLLEGE
College Green, Dublin 2
1 896 1000
With its enormous library and host of distinguished alumni including Jonathan Swift (although who knows why they’re proud of that, he was a psychopath who advocated eating Irish children [see “A Modest Proposal”]), Trinity College might very well be the intellectual center of Dublin. But even if you’re not in the mood for deep thought or glorifying cannibalism, a short stroll around the picturesque grounds is always appealing unless you hate fun. The most beautiful thing on campus, aside from the majestic Irishmen in kilts (Editor’s note: Those aren’t kilts…Maybe we shouldn’t have subsidized all that Guinness in the name of research), might be the Book of Kells, a ninth-century illuminated manuscript renowned for its elaborate and striking designs. Attempting to read it, however, will not be very illuminating, as it appears to be written in Pig Latin and there’s all these annoying illustrations instead of actual words. It’s permanently on display in the Old Library, though you’ll have to wait in line for at least half an hour before you see it. Located a few blocks away from the River Liffey, Trinity College is easily accessible by bus (13, 40, 49, and 65 all stop at College Green).
Tours for £10. Admission to the Old Library: £9 for adults, £8 for students and seniors, free for children under 12. 
Tours of the campus begin at 10:15am and end at 3:40pm every day except Sunday, when they end at 3:10pm. Book of Kells ~ Open May-Sept M-Sa 9:30am-5pm, Su 9:30am-4:30pm, Oct-Apr M-Sa 9:30am-5pm, Su noon-4:30pm.
ST. STEPHEN’S GREEN
PARK
St. Stephen’s Green, Dublin 2
1 475 7816
Though it’s not the largest park in Dublin, St. Stephen’s Green is still a sizable piece of greenery in the heart of Dublin. Tired of walking, sightseeing, or shopping in the neighboring Stephen’s Green Shopping Center? Plop down on one of the Green’s many benches and take in the lush scenery. If you notice strange smells, you’re probably in the garden for the blind, where specially scented plants are on display. Getting there is easy—it’s a short walk from Trinity College, and the end point of the Green Line tram.
Free. Open M-Sa 8am. Closes 20 min. before dark.
NATIONAL LIBRARY OF IRELAND
LIBRARY
Kildare Street, Dublin 2
1 603 0200
If you ever needed to consult Irish governmental documents, this is the place for you. But even if tax records from the 1930s aren’t your jam, the National Library of Ireland is certainly worth checking out. Stop by the striking reading room, and, if you have roots in Ireland, drop by the genealogy office to check up on that family history. Also notable: the exhibits honoring Irish writers like James Joyce and William Butler Yeats. Their Yeats collection is the biggest in the world, with a total of over 2000 items: everything from drafts of poems to his glasses. Like the National Gallery and the Museum of Archaeology and Ethnography, it’s a block away from Trinity College.
Free. Open M-W 9:30am-7:45pm, Th-F 9:30am-4:45pm, Sa 9:30am-4:30pm (reading room closes at 12:45pm), Su 1-5pm (exhibitions only).
NATIONAL GALLERY OF IRELAND
GALLERY
Entrance is on Clare Street
1 661 5133
The Hugh Lane and the Irish Museum of Modern Art may be more hip, but the National Gallery of Ireland is still an art world heavyweight. With works by such luminaries as Velasquez, Vermeer, and Caravaggio, this museum is the perfect way to spend a rainy afternoon—and believe us, Dublin has more than a few of those.
Entrance is adjacent to Merrion Square West. Free. Open M-W 9:30am-5:30pm, Th 9:30am-8pm, F-Sa 9:30am-5:30pm, Su 12:30-5:30pm.
NATIONAL MUSEUM OF IRELAND — ARCHAEOLOGY AND ETHNOGRAPHY
MUSEUM
Kildare Street, Dublin 2
1 677 7444
Dublin’s other National Museums are all well and good, but this one is perhaps the most memorable—likely due to the four big bodies, remarkably well-preserved human specimens from the Iron Age. Details like their hair and fingers are especially lifelike and uncanny. If looking at likely victims of human sacrifice makes your stomach turn, there’s loads more to see and do. The sprawling collection of medieval jewelry is particularly impressive.
Free. Tu-Sa 10am-5pm, Su noon-5pm.
DUBLIN CASTLE
CASTLE
Dame Street, Dublin 2
1 645 8800
Like the White House, Dublin Castle is a governmental building that also doubles as a tourist attraction. Unlike the White House, Dublin Castle features a medieval tower that once housed many prisoners, one of whom escaped through the toilet. That’s just one tidbit of Dublin Castle’s storied history; it’s been everything from a Norman fort to an Irish presidential inauguration location. Explore the incredibly opulent state rooms (Dublin Castle has been used to fill in for the Vatican in some television shows) before taking a relaxing walk in the garden out back. If the castle on its own isn’t enough for you, check out the website (listed below) for information on special events. There’s a bit of everything, ranging from performances of “A Midsummer Night’s Dream” on the gardens to scavenger hunts.
£5. Students £3. Children and seniors free. Open M-F 9am-midnight, Sa 1-10pm, Su noon-2am.
JAMESON DISTILLERY
DISTILLERY
Bow Street, Smithfield Village, Dublin 7 1 807 2355
The actual whiskey is produced in Midleton, Ireland, but this tour still offers a detailed and fascinating look at how the stuff you get drunk on gets made. A sample of whiskey is included in the ticket cost. If you’re still not satisfied, the large bar at the tour’s conclusion offers a great selection of whiskey varietals and cocktails. If that’s still not enough Jameson for you, you can proceed directly to the gift shop, where you can pick up a bottle and seemingly any piece of clothing that could possibly fit the word “Jameson” on it. If (read: when) you “sample” a little bit too much and start craving some greasy, delicious food, there’s a great spot called Jo’Burger located at Smithfield, Dublin 7, just around the corner from the distillery.
Adults £14, students £10.60, seniors £9.60, children £7.70. Discounts available online. Open daily 9am-6pm.
ST. PATRICK’S CATHEDRAL
CATHEDRAL
St. Patrick’s Close, Dublin 8
1 453 9472
You know all about St. Patrick—he chased the snakes out of Ireland, and he’s the reason you wear green and drink a lot on March 17. He’s also the namesake of this impressive Gothic cathedral, which boasts an impressive array of stained glass and the gravesite of Jonathan Swift, who served as dean from 1713 to 1745. After admiring the vaulted ceilings, walk outside to the adjacent St. Patrick’s Park, where the eponymous saint is said to have baptized the Irish when he visited Dublin. The Cathedral is, of course, open to travelers of all spiritual backgrounds, but if you want to make sure that your visit isn’t too “religious-y” for your comfort, you might want to make it a musical experience by visiting during the bells-ringing ~ Open the bells are rung every Sunday at 10:30am and 2:30pm. Take the 49 or 54 bus to Pearse Street, or take the Green Line and walk from the St. Stephen’s Green tram station.
£5.50. Children, seniors, and students £4.50. Group and family discounts available. Open M-Sa 9am-5pm, Su 9-10:30am, 12:30-2:30 pm, and 4:30-5pm.
DUBLINIA
MUSEUM
On St. Michael’s Hill and Winetavern Street, Dublin 8
1 872 2077
When’s the last time you saw a diorama of a man pooping? If the answer is “never,” you need to check out Dublinia immediately. This museum, devoted to Dublin’s Viking and medieval history, will no doubt appeal to your inner third-grader, unless you were the third-grader who cried when learning about the Black Death. The pooping diorama is, somehow, not the strangest one on display—one bizarre tableaux depicts a cart full of dead bodies, and another shows a crazed Viking woman making a sacrifice to Odin. Even more fun are the interactive stations, including one where you can dress up like a Viking trader—although you might regret it after going upstairs and learning about lice in the medieval era.
For those who don’t want their museum experience to resemble a whoopee cushion (did we mention the poop diorama has sound effects?), Dublinia has no shortage of non-flatulent attractions. The most notable is probably a scale-model of medieval Dublin. From a quick look, it seems like the South Side was cooler even back then.
Dublin shuts down early—“LATE NIGHT PHARMACY—OPEN UNTIL 9PM” reads the sign on one store—so it’s even more crucial to have a space you can call your own, sort of. Here are our picks for the best places to stay in Dublin.
BARNACLES DUBLIN
HOSTEL $
19 Temple Lane South, Dublin 2
1 671 6277
There are 171 beds in this hostel, located in the heart of the Temple Bar district, and the enthusiastic, inclusive staff will make sure that by the end of your stay, you’ll be buddies with every last guest—as well as staff members themselves! Hostel-wide pasta dinners, movie nights, game nights, and (for the livelier occupants) planned pub crawls abound. The dorms, each of which have between one and 11 beds, are similarly high-quality, but be warned: there are two classes of private rooms, one of which is miles better than the other. You’re going to want those big windows and the beautiful view, not the skylight, so be sure to specify your preference for the top floor when booking.
Dorms from £12, doubles and singles from £60. Reception open daily 24hr.
ISAACS HOSTEL
HOSTEL $$
2-5 Frenchmans Lane, Dublin 1
1 855 6215
There seem to be a million hostels near Gardiner Street, but this is the one that you want to stay at. Why? Because the Isaacs Hostel is, by far, the most unique amongst the entire pack, complete with off-the-charts amenities like book exchanges, TVs, ping pong, and even a free sauna. The rooms aren’t huge, but they’re sufficient, and the big windows make up for the room size. The bathrooms are generally spotless and are separated by gender. You’ll be able to get to your gender-specific business without freaking out about an attractive member of the opposite sex walking in! The decorations in the residential areas are rather unimaginative, but there are actually some pretty cool arched stone vaults in the basement that show off the hostel’s history as a wine shoppe.
Dorms starting at £14, £48-60 for private rooms. Reception open daily 24hr.
KINLAY HOUSE HOSTEL
HOSTEL $$
2-12 Lord Edward Street, Dublin 2
1 679 6644
Littered with different movie posters (everything from The Philadelphia Story to Pulp Fiction), this massive hostel has an absurdly complex layout that could cause some confusion. However, if you’re willing to potentially get lost wearing just a post-shower towel at least once (don’t worry, it’ll make for a great story and you may even make a new friend or two, wink, wink, nudge, nudge), the Kinlay House Hostel offers some of the best cheap rooms in all of Dublin. The doubles and singles feature large windows that light the space nicely, and the wooden beds are very crafty. If you dig communal experiences, be sure to book a bed in the Kinlay Room, a massive dorm with a beautiful vaulted wooden ceiling that holds 24 people—you may not get all 8hr. of beauty sleep, but you’ll be sure to have an unforgettable experience with some interesting fellow travelers.
Dorms from £17, doubles from £25, singles from £30 (extra £5 to guarantee a shower in the room). Reception open daily 24hr.
Getting there is easy enough; the 49, 49A, 54A, and 123 buses will all take you by Christ Church Cathedral, which is directly adjacent to Dublinia. You can also walk easily; if you’re coming from Trinity College, just walk down Dame Street until you get to the cathedral.
£8.50. Students/seniors £7.50. Children £6.50. Open daily 10am-6:30pm; last entry 5:30pm.
GUINNESS STOREHOUSE
STOREHOUSE
St. James’s Gate, Dublin 8 1 408 4800
So you’ve been to St. Patrick’s Cathedral, you’ve been to St. Michan’s Church, you’ve been to Christ Church Cathedral, and you figure you’ve seen Dublin’s main religious structures. Not quite. You’re still missing the basilica of beer, the holy place of hops, the altar of alcohol: the Guinness Storehouse. Make no mistake—this is not so much an educational attraction as it is a shrine to the acclaimed stout. Thankfully, there are no virgin sacrifices—just an admission fee.
Dubious? Consider the wall text in one room: “Centuries ago, many people were convinced that somehow, lead could be transformed into gold. In a way, Arthur Guinness was such a man. But where others failed, he succeeded.” Consider the monolithic sculpture of a Guinness pint on one floor. Consider the fact that this bizarre museum is housed in a seven-story reproduction of a Guinness glass (the website proudly notes that it could hold a whopping 14.3 million pints, which would probably put you over the legal limit). By the time you finish the tour, you half expect the bathroom faucets to spout Guinness.
Getting there is pretty easy, especially considering its location in another dimension. Just walk west past Christ Church Cathedral, onto Cornmarket and onto Thomas Street. Hang a left on Crane Street and you’ll start seeing signs. You’re in Guinness territory now (you already were, but now you’re in the inner sanctum). Admission may seem a bit steep, but it’s fairly reasonable if you factor in the complimentary pint you get at the end. You may not go home ready to spread the gospel of Guinness, but the Storehouse will certainly convince you that it’s a damn good drink.
£16.50 for adults, £13 for students and seniors, £6.50 for children (who presumably aren’t enjoying the complimentary pint). Open daily 9:30am-5pm. Open until 7pm in Jul and Aug.
KILMAINHAM GAOL
PRISON
Inchicore Road, Kilmainham, Dublin 8
1 453 2037
Yes, we know that “jail” is spelled oddly in Ireland, and we know that the last thing you want to do on vacation is go to prison. But that doesn’t change the fact that Kilmainham Gaol is one of the most electrifying attractions in Dublin—and don’t worry, that’s not an electric chair joke. Most of the executions here were carried out by hanging.
Indeed, Kilmainham Gaol is most famous for having housed many famous Irish revolutionaries—many of the central figures in the 1916 Easter Rising were taken here and killed. You’ll see where political figures like Eamon de Valera were imprisoned by the British government. Many places in Dublin commemorate these figures (see: Garden of Remembrance, the National Library, the Collins Barracks) but this is your opportunity to get really close to them (unless you do some gravedigging in Glasnevin Cemetery). But be forewarned: the only way to get access to the jail is through a guided tour. If you wanted to case the joint to see if you could have broken out of it, this probably isn’t the attraction for you. For all others, the informative tour should be a boon to their enjoyment, especially since the jail contains very few labels or identifying marks.
Getting there, however, is kind of a hike, albeit a scenic one. Walk west along the River Liffey until you get to Heuston Station—take a right onto Military Road and follow it to the Irish Museum of Modern Art. Walk straight through that museum’s beautiful grounds—it used to be the Royal Hospital and has a formal garden—and you’ll come out right by Kilmainham Gaol. If you don’t like beautiful scenery and/or it’s raining, take the 13 or 40 bus from O’Connell Street. Or you could just commit a crime and get a ride over in a police van.
£6. Seniors £4. Children and students £2. Open Apr-Sept daily 9:30am-6pm, last admission at 5pm. Oct-Mar M-Sa 9:30am-5:30pm, last admission at 4:30; Su 10am-6pm, last admission at 5pm.
GARDEN OF REMEMBRANCE
GARDEN
Parnell Square East, Dublin 1
1 821 3021
Are you the type of person that’s really into cathedral floor plans but also hates ceilings? We have just the place for you. The Garden of Remembrance, a park meant to commemorate those who died in the Irish struggle for freedom (apparently kind of a big deal over here), is laid out in the shape of a cross, much like most cathedrals. The nave is the longer passage in the center, and the transept crosses it… wait, you’re reading this?
But the Garden of Remembrance is also a somber place of reflection (surprise!), so don’t go expecting the madhouse that is St. Stephen’s Green during lunch hour (although there may be a few people eating sandwiches at the covered benches). At the far end of the garden, there’s a large bronze statue and a poem inscribed on a wall, both of which celebrate—you guessed it—Irish independence and the men and women that fought for it. All in all, it’s central location by Parnell Square makes it a fine place to pay your respects (especially if you don’t want to walk all the way to Glasnevin Cemetery, where some famous revolutionaries are buried).
Free. Open daily Apr-Sept 8:30am-6pm, Oct-Mar 9:30am-4pm.
JAMES JOYCE CENTRE
MUSEUM
35 North Great George’s Street
1 878 8547
James Joyce’s Ulysses is set in 1904, and the Dublin depicted in that novel is obviously quite different from the one that exists today. To really get a sense of Joyce’s Dublin, you can’t do much better than the James Joyce Centre, which is located in a gorgeous Georgian townhouse just a few blocks east of Parnell Square. The guys at this museum take Joyce seriously (don’t try to bluff your way through a conversation with them), evidenced by the fact that they’re the ones who organize the city’s annual Bloomsday events. If you should happen to visit Dublin during a month that’s not June, the Centre still delivers the goods—most impressively, they have the door from 7 Eccles Street, where Bloom lives in the novel. It’s kind of like the Irish equivalent of the Smithsonian American History Museum, where you can see the puffy shirt that Jerry wore on Seinfeld. Slightly more highbrow, but you get the point.
The self-guided museum also includes numerous objects from Joyce’s own life, including a copy of his death mask. Heavy stuff. On the top floor, you can view furniture from the apartment where Joyce wrote Finnegans Wake. Though you may be tired from walking up three flights of stairs, you can’t sit on these chairs, which is fitting because you also can’t understand Finnegans Wake. You can also see a recreation of one of the apartments in which he wrote Ulysses. The wall text says he prided himself on his ability to get work done in hectic environments. Alright, Jimmy, but could you have finished Ulysses if you had to contend with Buzzfeed?
Though it may not appear so at first glance, this museum is a great place to go on a sunny day. For one thing, the galleries, with their large windows, are stunning in the sunlight; for another, walking tours leave from the museum on Tuesday, Thursday, and Saturday.
£5. Students and seniors £4. Children presumably don’t attend. Walking tours £10, £8 for students and seniors. Open Apr-Sept M-Sa 10am-5pm, Su noon-5pm; Oct-Mar Tu-Sa 10am-5pm, Su noon-5pm. Walking tours Tu, Th, and Sa 11am and 2pm.
DUBLIN WRITERS MUSEUM
MUSEUM
18 Parnell Square, Dublin 1
1 872 2077
Also known as “The Trinity College Alumni Museum,” the Dublin Writers Museum celebrates everyone from George Bernard Shaw to Joseph Thomas Sheridan Le Fanu. Who? Exactly. Already it’s clear that you need to visit this museum. Its central location means there’s no excuse; you just walk north up O’Connell Street, past Parnell Square, and turn left at the Garden of Remembrance. Get there and get reading; there’s enough wall text at this museum to fill a book. Luckily, audio guides are available.
You can probably guess some of the contents of the Dublin Writers Museum; stuff about Jonathan Swift being a pioneering satirist, stuff about Oscar Wilde’s fall from grace, the legally mandated Ulysses showcase. But what really makes the Dublin Writers Museum stand out is its impressive collection of memorabilia; or, in common parlance, junk the writers used to own. The memorabilia falls into three categories: archival (a program for the original production of Oscar Wilde’s “Lady Windermere’s Fan”), bizarrely personal (a luggage label used by Frank O’Connor; you wouldn’t believe the insight it allows into his work), and downright hilarious (Samuel Beckett’s home telephone, which included a button to disable incoming calls.). If you’re the type that always preferred pictures to words, you’re almost certainly in the wrong museum, but the second floor does feature portraits of the various authors. If you hate both pictures and words, you might get some pleasure out of the house itself—it used to belong to the Jameson family, which gives you some idea of how lavish it is. In the back, there’s a bookstore where you can actually buy the works of the authors on display (though the exhibit includes enough information for you to fake your way through a dinner party). Buy a pen and paper while you’re at it: maybe it’s time for your magnum opus.
£7.50. Students & seniors £6.30. Children £4.70. Open M-Sa 10am-5pm, last admission 4:15pm; Su 11am-5pm, last admission 4:15pm.
IRISH FILM INSTITUTE
INSTITUTE
6 Eustace Street, Temple Bar, Dublin 2
1 679 5744
Odds are you don’t know very much about Irish film. No, Boondock Saints doesn’t count. Neither does The Departed or Gangs of New York. And Braveheart is set in Scotland. Maybe you’ve seen Once. Maybe. All the more reason to visit the Irish Film Institute, a combination of a film archive, a café, and several movie theaters. Unlike most academic film institutions, this is both welcoming to the general public and full of really comfortable seats. The film archive requires appointments to be made in advance, but otherwise you can just wander in. Take stock of what movies are showing this week—if you haven’t heard of any of the movies, pick the one with the weirdest title. What’s the worst that could happen? Or spend some time in the café, a gem of restraint in the rather gauche Temple Bar district. Delicious paninis, a glass ceiling (hopefully just a literal one), and drinks ranging from fine wine to bottles of O’Hara’s craft beer make this a far classier affair than the concessions stand at your local movie house (the lack of popcorn, however, is unforgivable).
Visitors to the gift shop may mistakenly believe they’ve found the film archive; in reality, there’s just a really impressive selection of DVDs for sale, alongside a number of books about film and some sick posters (but good luck fitting them in your suitcase). If the sky opens up (believe us, it will), there are few better ways to spend an afternoon. Just walk west along the south side of the Liffey and take a left onto Eustache Street—the IFI will be near the intersection with Dame Street.
Entrance free; ticket prices vary by time of day, but range from £7.60 to £9 (£5.90- £7.60 for students/seniors/children). Open M-Th 10am-11pm F-Su 10am-11:30pm.
JAMES JOYCE STATUE
STATUE
North Earl Street, Dublin 1
More than a century ago, James Joyce walked the streets of Dublin, gathering the source material for his magnum opus, Ulysses. Much has changed since then—the number of people who have actually read Ulysses has increased by five, possibly six—and the best way to appreciate that is to pay a visit to the James Joyce Statue, located just off O’Connell Street. Though certain landmarks in Ulysses, like Davy Byrne’s Pub or Glasnevin Cemetery, still survive today, this bronze statue, made by artist Marjorie Fitzgibbon and installed in 1990, is located outside a Thai food joint and a cut-rate barbershop. If Joyce were to write Ulysses today, would these factor into Leopold Bloom’s famous journey? Maybe they’re already in Ulysses and we just can’t tell. It’s a very complex novel.
Though Dublin has plenty of attractions devoted to Joyce and his work, this statue stands above the fold for two reasons: it’s free, and it’s the perfect place for a photo op. Come on, you know you want a new profile picture that says “I’m artsy and sophisticated.” Or maybe you want to convince your mother that you went to Ireland not to get drunk on Guinness or Jameson, but because you genuinely care about its literary and artistic heritage. There’s no more convenient way to get this point across—there’s rarely a line to gaze at the statue, and taking a picture takes less than a second. That leaves you plenty of time to go to the Old Jameson Distillery or the Guinness Storehouse. If you genuinely do care about its artistic and literary heritage (nerd alert), you’ll have plenty of time to visit the nearby James Joyce Centre or the Dublin Writers Museum.
Free. Open daily 24hr.
FOOD
Irish cuisine isn’t just meat and potatoes anymore. With everything from Middle Eastern brunches to curry-fried fish and chips, Dublin is filled with delicious grub. Read on for our picks.
BROTHER HUBBARD
RESTAURANT $$
153 Capel Street, Dublin 1
1 441 1112
Utensils are served in vintage cans. The most popular item is a vaguely Middle Eastern take on pulled pork. The tip jar is divided into two categories, allowing you to voice your preference for “Mad Men” or “Mad Max.” Brother hubbard is almost unbearably hip, but that shouldn’t detract from its friendly atmosphere or impeccable food. The brunch menu is worth waking up early for, but late risers should direct their attention to the deservedly lauded pulled pork sandwich. If you’re there on a nice day, be sure to get a seat in the courtyard area. Nearby: The Black Sheep (61 Capel Street), Beerhouse (84.5 Capel Street).
Brunch entrées about £9, breakfast about £5. Sandwiches £7-11. Credit cards accepted. Open M-F 8am-5:30pm, Sa-Su 10am-5pm.
SEAFOOD $$
Units 2-3 Drury Street Car park, Dublin 2
1 679 9009
Seafood joint Super Miss Sue fuses high class dining with world class drunk food. Say it’s 7pm and you’re looking to impress a date. Enjoy some high quality fish in the café area, where black curtains and walls of Campari bottles set the stage for elegant romance. Now say it’s 2am, the date didn’t go so well, and you’re way too drunk. Ease yourself over to SMS Cervi, where you’ll get the best fish-and-chips in Dublin, served in a sleek, slim package that’s closer to an Hermès box than anything you’ll find at McDonald’s. The romance with this food is all you need. Go on a Friday night, when you can get the fish, chips, and soda combo for £10. Nearby: The Bar With No Name (3 Fade Street), Murphy’s Ice Cream (27 Wicklow Street).
£11 for fish and chips at SMS Cervi. Appetizers £8, entrées £14-30 at café. Credit cards accepted. Café open M-W noon-10pm, Th-Sa noon-11pm, Su noon-10pm. Cervi M-Th noon-midnight, F-Sa noon-3am, Su noon-midnight.
BUNSEN
BURGERS $
36 Wexford Street, Dublin 2
1 552 5408
Bunsen’s entire menu fits on their business card. You can get a burger or a cheeseburger, and that can have one patty or two. You can get fries. You can get soda or a milkshake. This ain’t rocket science (or molecular gastronomy). But sometimes simplicity is all you need, especially when everything they’re offering is delicious. A cracking selection of beers and a killer indie rock playlist make this the perfect place to chow down before hitting up some of the more alternative bars on Wexford and Camden Streets.
Burger £6.95, cheeseburger £7.45. Fries £3. Credit cards accepted. Open M-Tu 12:30-9pm, W 12:30-9:30pm, Th-F 12-10:30pm, Su 1-9pm.
CRACKBIRD
FRIED CHICKEN $$
60 Dame Street, Dublin 2
1 616 9841
Odds are you don’t associate Dublin with fried chicken. One visit to Crackbird will change that. This mirror-filled hipster hangout offers a variety of takes on this American staple, but the one to order is the soy garlic chicken; it’s their most popular dish for a reason. Salads are available for vegetarians, and a small but carefully curated selection of beer and wines round out the menu. Nearby: Kinlay House Dublin (2-12 Lord Edward Street), Dublin Castle (Dame Street).
Single orders of chicken (4 pieces) about £11; double orders (8 pieces) £20. Salads £10. Mastercard and Visa accepted. Open M-W noon-10pm, Th-Sa noon-11pm, Su noon-9 pm.
WUFF
RESTAURANT $$
23 Benburb Street, Dublin 7
1 532 0347
Don’t be put off by this restaurant’s spare, modern aesthetics. The delicious food and friendly wait staff is sure to make you feel at home, even if the bare-bulb lighting doesn’t exactly scream “cozy.” No surprises on the breakfast, lunch, brunch, and dinner menus (unless you’ve never encountered a ham and cheese omelette before), but the hearty flavors and generous portions will keep you coming back for more. Nearby: Seven Social (76 Benburb Street), Dice Bar (79 Queen Street)
Credit cards accepted. Open M-W 7:30am-4pm, Th-F 7:30am-9:30pm, Sa 10am-9:30pm, Su 10am-4pm.
NIGHTLIFE
“Good puzzle would be cross Dublin without passing a pub,” Leopold Blooms ponders in Ulysses. What was true in 1904 is even more true today—there are currently over 1,000 bars in the city of Dublin. That amount of choice can be very overwhelming; luckily, Let’s Go is here to help you separate the wheat (wheat beer?) from the chaff.
BAR
27 Westmoreland Street, Dublin 2
1 475 1429
Cassidy’s, despite its unassuming exterior, is a lot like your weird cousin’s house. The decor is inspired by Star Wars and comic books. Hard rock is blasting from the stereo. You eat microwave pizza and play board games. Who knew that your weird cousin had all the ingredients for one of Dublin’s best bars? “I usually don’t go for hipster places,” laughs one local. “But this place kind of gets away with it.” Indeed, with its vintage Street Fighter game, its graffiti-covered walls, its garage rock soundtrack, and its killer beer selection, Cassidy’s is as trendy as they come; but it’s also an expressly welcoming environment.
Friendly bartenders help you navigate the daunting craft beer menu, featuring local favorites as well as hot imports like Mikkeler. Cocktails are also available, though the selection of liquors is somewhat less impressive than those you’ll see at other bars (Gordon’s seems to be their only gin option, for instance).
Because this is so close to the tourist-heavy Temple Bar area, the crowd is a mix of locals and tourists—it’s a great place to go when you first get to Dublin, as you’ll likely meet a few people who are also trying to figure the city out.
If it seems crowded upstairs, grab your drink and head to the basement area, accessible by two large staircases. The big tables down here are perfect for eating the glorious instant pizza available upstairs—only £10 for an entire pie and a pint, and £20 for a pie and a pitcher. Even if you don’t need to go, it’s worth checking the bathrooms out—the comic book decor continues and it’s lit solely by candles in beer bottles.
Cocktails about £7, pints from £4.50-5.50. Open daily 1pm-12:30am.
THE BERNARD SHAW
BAR
11-12 South Richmond Street, Dublin 2
85 712 8342
As its namesake might have written, there are bars, and then there are superbars. Though there are plenty of hip joints in the Portobello area, the Bernard Shaw stands above the rest. Maybe it’s the cocktail deals (2 mojitos for £10). Maybe it’s the adventurous bar food (when’s the last time you had arrosticini?). Maybe it’s the fact that there’s a garden out back, and in that garden there’s a massive bus that’s been converted into a pizza oven. You’ve never been to a bar like the Bernard Shaw before.
Though the selection of beers isn’t as extensive as some of its neighbors (still there are some nice bottles), the Bernard Shaw is one of the few places in Dublin where you can get a decent cocktail for a decent price. And even if the cocktails were bad, it would be one of the few places in Dublin where you can get a bad cocktail for a decent price. Bring a friend and get that 2 for 1 deal; bring two friends and get three bottles of Bavaria or other select beers for £10. The Bernard Shaw is a place for socializing with friends. If the upstairs area looks deserted, it’s probably because everyone’s partying it up downstairs, where the DJ plays the hits. Don’t be the guy who sits at the bar counter nursing a beer by himself. The fiesta-themed decor makes you look even sadder than you’d be otherwise. And on your way home, be sure to stop at the Bernard Shaw birthplace, which is located a couple of blocks away—just make sure you don’t drunkenly pee on it.
Beer £5- £6. Cocktails £7-8. Select cocktails are £10 for 2; select beers are £10 for 3. Open daily M-Th 8am-midnight, F 8am-1am, Sa-Su 4pm-1am.
DICE BAR
BAR
79 Queen Street, Dublin 2
1 633 3936
“DICE BAR—PHAT JOINT” reads the sign outside. Damn straight. This cooler-than-cool Smithfield bar boasts an all black exterior, a second wave ska soundtrack (think Madness and the Specials, not Reel Big Fish and Sublime), and its very own beer and liquor: the tasty Revolution Red and something called “BATHTUB GIN,” respectively. But that relentless air of cool belies its status as a great spot to just hang out and have a few drinks. Massive black leather booths mean that you can come here with a group and be sure you can all sit together (if you show up early enough, that is; on Friday nights, the clientele spills out into the surrounding street).
Perhaps the strangest thing about the Dice Bar, however, is how it changes over the course of an evening. If you swing by at 4pm, an hour after it opens, you’re likely to find a group of girls sipping Yellowtail and, at 5pm, you’ll find businessmen letting off steam with a couple pints of Guinness. The bartenders may seem slightly aloof, but they’re very attentive to what you’re ordering and, if you strike up a conversation at a quiet moment, they’ll be happy to talk with you. Despite the rock’n’roll vibe, this is a friendly spot.
Beers £4- £6, Cocktails £7.50 or 2 for £12. Pitchers £11-14. Open M-Th 3pm-midnight, F-Sa 3pm-1am, Su 3-11:30pm.
THE BLACK SHEEP
BAR
61 Capel Street, Dublin 1
1 873 0013
www.galwaybaybrewery.com/blacksheep
The first thing you notice about the Black Sheep is how open it feels. Some bars in Dublin feel less like a social space and more like the Black Hole of Calcutta. But even when the Black Sheep is crowded, you can make your way to the bathroom without bumping into 20 people; even better, the significant distance between tables means you can chat with your friends without getting a sore throat from yelling. But the second thing you’ll probably notice—and the thing that will probably keep your attention for the rest of the night—is the bar, which is decorated with hundreds of beer bottles. This is a Galway Bay Bar, so it’s got that noted craft brewery’s various beers on draught. It’s also got a worldwide selection of beers, including Belgium’s Delirium Tremens, said by some to be the finest in the world. Some of these varieties will run you a pretty penny—especially if you go for one with a high ABV (alcohol by volume)—but the pints are pretty fairly priced. Those looking for stronger stuff should try a shot of poitín, an Irish alcoholic beverage based on—you guessed it—potatoes. If you’re hungry and swing by at an earlier hour, food is served until 9 pm.
Beers on draught about £5.50 for a pint; bottled beers £5-10. Open M-Th, noon-11:30pm. F-Sa noon-12:30am, Su noon-11:30pm.
THE WORKMAN’S CLUB
CLUB
10 Wellington Quay, Dublin 2
1 670 6692
The Workman’s Club is not the place to start your night (like Twister, it’s best enjoyed after a few drinks), but it’s the perfect place to end it. Though there’s a £5 cover charge on Wednesday nights, what you’re paying for is access to the space. In many Dublin pubs, you’ll get the urge to dance—you’re drinking, the Jackson Five just came on the stereo, it’s understandable. Normally you need to resist that urge, lest you knock a friendly Irishman’s pint of Guinness off the counter and suddenly he isn’t so friendly anymore. At the Workman’s Club, the spacious rooms on multiple floors allow you to dance the night away—well, until 2:30 am, but that’s later than most Dublin establishments stay open.
Be sure to check ahead on the calendar to see if a live band is playing—even if there’s not, you can count on DJ sets seven nights a week. If you’re looking for nothin’ but a good time, classic rock takes center stage on Tuesday nights. If you can’t dance to anything that hasn’t been approved by Pitchfork, Indie takes precedence on Mondays and Thursdays. So whether you pregame at your hostel, hit up a casual bar, or surreptitiously drink straight whiskey in the streets, make sure your night concludes at the Workman’s Club.
£5 cover on Wednesday nights. Cocktails £7-9, pints £5-7. Open daily 5pm-2:30am.
Practicalities
• ATMS: There are a number of 24hr. ATMs near Trinity College Dublin, including two in the Bank of Ireland, adjacent to College Green, and at Ulster Bank, which is across the street from the Bank of Ireland.
• CURRENCY EXCHANGE: Dublin City Centre Currency Store. (1 Westmoreland Street, Dublin 1. 1 670 6724. Open M-W 9am-6pm, Th-Sa 9am-7pm, Su 10am-7pm.)
• POST OFFICE: General Post Office, O’Connell Street Lower, Dublin 1. Also home to the An Post Museum, a small museum devoted to letters and the postal service in Irish history (admission £2). 1 705 8833. ~ Open M-Sa 8:30am-6pm.
• IMPORTANT PHONE NUMBERS
• INTERNET: Internet Café (8 Lower O’Connell Street, Dublin 1. Offers luggage storage, internet access, and printing capabilities. £1.40 for the first 20min. of surfing. ~ Open M-F 9am-9pm, Sa 9am-8pm, Su 10am-8pm.)
Emergency
Emergency Numbers
• GENERAL EMERGENCY: }112 or 999.
• POLICE TRAFFIC HOTLINE: For reporting aggressive drivers. }353 18 90 205 805.
Hospitals and Pharmacies
• MATER MISERICORDAE UNIVERSITY HOSPITAL.
• MATER MISERICORDAE RAPID INJURY CLINIC. THE FORGE, SMITHFIELD MARKET, DUBLIN 7. Walk-in service. Treatment provided for non-life-threatening injuries to people over 16. For serious injuries, dial }999 or 112. 1 657 9000. ~ Open M-F 8am-6pm.
• HICKEY’S PHARMACY: 55 O’Connell Street Lower, Dublin 1. 1 873 0427. ~ Open M-F 8am -10pm, Sa 8:30am-10pm, Su 10am-10pm.
• HAMILTON LONG PHARMACY: 5 O’Connell Street Lower, Dublin 1. 1 874 8456. ~ Open M-F 7:30am-9pm, Sa 9am-9pm, Su noon-9pm.
• HICKEY’S PHARMACY: 21 Grafton Street, Dublin 2. 1 679 0467. ~ Open M-W 8:30am-8pm, Th 8:30-8:30pm, F 8:30am-8pm, Sa 9:30am-7pm, Su 10:30am-6pm.
Belfast is in a state of transition. Walking around the city, you’ll see vacant lots next to Vespa stores, boarded-up houses next to trendy bars, and derelict storefronts next to hipster restaurants. In other words, Belfast is standing on the verge of gentrification, which means it’s one of the most exciting places to visit in the United Kingdom.
With two major universities (one of which boasts a distinguished art school), legions of art galleries, and tons of trendy restaurants and pubs, Belfast is a city where there’s always something happening, no matter what the producer of Game of Thrones says. And that’s without even mentioning its devotion to history (check out Titanic Belfast or go on a Black Taxi tour), its distinctive churches, or its beautiful tree-lined avenues. Belfast is having a moment, and if the luxury hotels springing up on every corner are any indication, we’re not the only ones who think it’s about to hit the big time.
BELFAST INTERNATIONAL YOUTH HOSTEL
HOSTEL $
22-32 Donegal Road
28 9031 5435
Belfast has no shortage of quirky small hostels, but it’s also got this no-nonsense establishment. Need a cheap bed, a clean shower, and no surprises? Belfast International Youth Hostel has you covered. There’s little to no decoration on the walls, there’s no pool table or spa, but everything’s clean, well-lit, and bland in a pleasant way. Belfast Youth Hostel is where you play it safe—despite the name, there are plenty of older budget travelers, many coming with a family.
The rooms are on the smaller side, but the beds and showers are fairly large—if you’ve got a guest (wink wink), it shouldn’t be a problem. All the rooms have windows, but none of them have a particularly good view (Donegall Street isn’t Belfast’s most scenic). At least you have some control over the ventilation.
Price-wise, you’re not likely to find anything better in Belfast. The low cost is somewhat deceptive, as breakfast is not included—however, the on-site café, the Causeway Café, is well-priced and open daily from 7:55am-noon. Eat there and you’ll probably still come out on top. The kitchen is open until 11pm daily.
Wifi is available, but only on the ground floor. Luckily, reception is open 24/7 and you’ll be able to access the lobby whenever you need to.
Dorms start at £10.50, doubles start at £20 per person. Reception open daily 24hr..
VAGABONDS
HOSTEL $
9 University Road
28 9023 3017
The name suggests desperation, but life is sweet at Vagabonds. Situated in a renovated townhouse on University Road, this hostel boasts a beer garden in back, numerous picnic tables in front, and two large common rooms indoors. And the actual bedrooms aren’t too small either. Rooms range from a 14 bed dorm (complete with two showers and doors opening directly onto the beer garden) to more intimate privates. Most of the bathrooms are located on the ground floor, meaning you might be walking around the space with your towel—if you track water on the stairs, expect some dirty looks.
While most other hostels end their continental breakfast at 9 or 9:30am, Vagabonds keeps it going until 11am. If you end up getting back late from a Belfast pub crawl, you won’t be starving next morning. In addition, the hostel keeps a chef on staff; for an added fee, you can get Italian dinners there nightly (lasagna goes for £4.50). Given these amenities, the vast amount of common space, and the size of their TV and pool table, we’re not entirely convinced that the staff of Vagabonds wants you to explore the city; there’s so much fun stuff going on at the hostel! They do, of course, offer promotions for several of Belfast’s most popular tours and day-trip buses.
While there’s no curfew, the reception closes around 9. Someone will be in the office 24/7, but be sure to call ahead if you’re going to be later than nine; they’ll be happy to keep the office open for you.
Dorms start at £13; privates start at £40. Reception open daily 9am-9pm; call ahead if you need to check in later.
QUEENS FILM THEATRE
THEATER
20 University Square
28 9097 1097
From the outside, Queen’s Film Theatre looks like just another townhouse on University Place, indistinguishable from the numerous academic departments that occupy the others. Step inside, however, and you’ll be greeted with a sleek, modern interior. This place has undergone a few renovations since being renovated in 1968.
As an arthouse cinema, Queen’s Film Theatre isn’t in the business of showing the latest Hollywood blockbusters; get excited for worldwide independent film with a smattering of old classics. The screens aren’t IMAX-sized, but are pretty big for theaters of this ilk (at some independent cinemas, you’re left in doubt as to whether this is the theater or the owner’s living room).
Still, the Queen’s Film Theatre isn’t just a place to watch movies. Though alcohol’s not allowed in the theater, be sure to enjoy a pre-show drink at the well-stocked bar—there are a variety of beers from the local Hilden Brewery, as well as several whiskeys and other spirits (Jameson is a sponsor). The café area is worth hanging out in if only to look at the tables, all of which are individually decorated. Of particular note is the Twin Peaks table, which features black-and-white drawings of all the various characters on David Lynch’s cult TV show.
The theatre is located in the Queen’s Quarter, near the university. Walk south down Botanic Road and take a left onto University Square; the theatre will be on your left. £4 per ticket. Box office opens at 6pm nightly.
ST. MALACHY’S CHURCH
CHURCH
24 Alfred Street
28 9032 1713
You’ve never seen a church quite like Saint Malachy’s. Built between 1841 and 1844, this Tudor Revival marvel is as lavish as they come. With an altarpiece featuring three massive oil paintings, a ceiling inspired by Henry VII’s chapel at Westminster Abbey, and the biggest belfry in Belfast (try saying that three times fast), Saint Malachy’s will damned near knock your socks off. In fact, it was supposed to be even bigger, but it was decided that mounting such a big project wasn’t a great idea while Irish people were suffering due to the potato famine. All things considered, this was probably the right call—the initial plans called for the church to be a massive cathedral that would seat 7,000.
Given its size, it’s not surprising the bell caused a few headaches over the years (we mean that literally and figuratively). When it was first installed, Dunville’s, a nearby whiskey distillery complained—apparently the peals of the bell were affecting the distilling process, which lead to the bell being muffled with fabric. Alternative theory: everyone who had been drinking whiskey on Saturday night had a massive headache and couldn’t bear the sound.
The church is located in the Linen Quarter, just a few minutes from City Hall. Walk towards the waterfront on Donegal Square South, which will turn into May Street. Then take a right and walk down Alfred Street. The church will be on your left.
Free.
ULSTER MUSEUM
MUSEUM
Botanic Gardens
845 608 0000
It’s not ridiculous to assume that the Ulster Museum is a small institution devoted to local history, much like the Clare Museum or the Galway City Museum. There’s certainly local history here—check out the harrowing exhibit about the Troubles—but the Ulster Museum is far broader and stranger than that. The ground floor includes an exhibit designed to showcase the museum’s breadth; on display are butterfly specimens, dinosaur bones, tableware from the early 1800s, an Ancient Egyptian stone carving, and Louboutin shoes. It’s like every branch of the Smithsonian—art, history, natural history, anthropology—rolled into one deeply eclectic museum.
But the museum doesn’t just display weird objects and ask you to make sense of them (ok, maybe they do on the ground floor exhibit). The place is filled with televisions showing short films about the items on display, allowing you to contextualize everything from woolly mammoth tusks to medieval relics. There are also interactive portions—don’t you want to construct your own megalithic tomb?
Highlights include a massive skeleton of the Irish giant deer, old cannonballs and cannons from the Spanish Armada, and Takabuti, a well-preserved mummy that was the first to be brought to Ireland. There are also tons of rotating exhibitions, which only serve to highlight the diverse nature of the exhibitions at the Ulster.
Just as strange as the museum is the gift shop, which features shirts designed by the THAW Factory. You’ll find t-shirts depicting such imaginary food brands as “Padraig Pearse Pasta Sauce” and “Border Butter Beans,” all laced with imagery of the Irish Civil War and the Troubles. Let’s just say it’s a one-of-a-kind souvenir.
If you’re in Belfast’s City Centre, just walk South towards Queen’s University Belfast; walk on University Road, which goes in front of the college, and the Ulster Museum will be on your left, along with the Botanic Gardens.
Free, suggested donation £3. Open Tu-Su 10am-5pm.
TITANIC BELFAST
MUSEUM
1 Queens Road, Titanic Quarter
28 9076 6399
The Titanic was one of the biggest disasters of the 20th century, but when James Cameron made Titanic in 1997, it belatedly became one of the world’s biggest moneymakers (the film has grossed over $2 billion, and that doesn’t account for the effect it had on the tissue industry). Belfast, where the Titanic was built in the early 20th century, has cashed in on this trend with Titanic Belfast, a museum opened in 2012. If the £15 admission didn’t tip you off, this is a wholly commercial venture; and in fact, the area surrounding the center has been designated “Titanic Quarter” to aid development.
All profit motives aside, the museum is a thrilling experience—the various galleries immerse you in Belfast’s shipbuilding past, take you to the bottom of the ocean floor (the museum projects Dr. Robert Ballard’s high-definition footage of the ship’s wreck), and clear up numerous myths about the boat and its sinking. There’s also a reproduction of the ship’s famous staircase, so be sure to dress up and get a picture. Of course, there’s also a massive gift shop, where you can get any sort of clothing or accessory with the word “TITANIC” emblazoned on it. We hope that’s not a comment on its structural integrity. We just have one question about the commemorative glasses—is it safe to put ice in them?
The museum is slightly removed from Belfast’s city center, though it’s certainly walkable. If you’re coming from Town Hall, walk East towards the Lagan, then walk along the river until you get to Queens Bridge. Take a left on the other bank and walk past the W5; you’ll get to the Titanic eventually.
£15.50. £7.25 for children 5-16. Free for children under 5. £10 for students during the week, £11 during the weekend. £11 for seniors during the week, £13 during the weekend. Open daily Apr 9am-7pm, May 9am-6pm, Jun-Aug 9am-7pm, Nov-Mar 10am-5pm. Last admission is 1hr. 40min. before closing.
MADE IN BELFAST
RESTAURANT $$
23 Talbot Street
28 9024 4107
Walk into Made in Belfast on Talbot Street, and you might think you’ve stepped into one of Belfast’s many thrift shops. With its artfully curated vintage furniture and bizarre decor (yes, those are men’s hats hanging from the ceiling; and, yes, that’s a giant statue of a pink ostrich), Made in Belfast looks like the set of a Wes Anderson movie. The food is served in a manner that’s just as strange—order the pulled pork sandwich and you’ll get three slices of bread plus a jar filled with pulled pork—but what’s strangest of all is how darned good it is. Inventive yet traditional, the cuisine at Made in Belfast is as flavorful and delicious as you’re likely to find in the entire city. There’s a big emphasis on sustainability here—several items on the menu, such as the “sustainable seafood chowder,” make a point of it—so don’t feel bad about ordering any meat products. They were almost certainly raised humanely.
The downside to Made in Belfast being so good is that they know it—the meals aren’t cheap, though the lunch menu is fairly reasonable. In addition, there are several promotions. If you go here and save your receipt, you can get 10% off at their sister restaurant, the fried chicken-centric “Le Coop” (we wonder if they have beef—or chicken, rather—with Crackbird, a similarly hipster fried chicken joint in Dublin). And if you go on any day between Sunday and Wednesday, the cocktails are only £3.50. Pick one of these babies up and take a selfie—you could win a dinner for two.
£10-12 for lunch, £14-18 for dinner. Open M-W 11am-9:30pm, Th-F 11am-10pm, Sa 10am-10pm, Su 10am-9pm.
ROCKET & RELISH
RESTAURANT $$
479-481 Lisburn Road
28 90 665 655
Lisburn Road can take you far away from Belfast City Centre, but Rocket & Relish is worth the trek. This gourmet burger joint isn’t about simplicity—all of its burgers come with various toppings—but it never lets complexity get in the way of quality. Their cranberry and brie burger might be the best, but the myriad others are all worth a try. If you’re a vegetarian or just don’t relish (haha, relish—get it?) the thought of eating red meat, they have veggie and chicken burgers available. Pair one of these suckers with a big frothy milkshake and it’s like you’re getting geared up for the coolest sock hop of all time. No alcohol’s served on the premises, but there’s also no corkage charge. That means that you should take advantage of the numerous off-licences along Lisburn Road—grab a six-pack or a bottle of wine and you’ll be set.
But even though it’s a takeaway burger joint, Rocket & Relish allows for a dining experience far beyond that of McDonald’s. If you’re sitting in, expect full table service. You’ll also get the chance to admire the artfully sleek dining area, complete with vintage red metal chairs and cult film posters on the wall: “This is Spinal Tap,” “Bottle Rocket,” that kind of thing (haha, rocket—get it?). Best of all, the outdoor seating area in front is filled with Astroturf—these so-called beer gardens need to step up their game.
It’s a truly welcoming atmosphere; if you’ve ordered burgers for takeaway, they’ve got a little waiting room set up for you, complete with couches and magazines. Now that’s customer service.
Burgers about £7 for 6oz. patties, £10 for 12 oz patties. Open M-Th 11:30am-9pm, F-Sa 11:30am-10pm, Su 1-9pm.
RESTAURANT $
Church Lane
28 9023 3282
It’s located just a block away from the Victoria Square Shopping Centre, but Alleycat feels like it’s in a different world. “Thick Shakes — Proper Burgers — Craft Beers — Bourbon” reads the sign outside, and that non-nonsense attitude carries over tho the interior. There are three main areas: the restaurant portion, where the seating is mainly in booths; the bar area, with a mix of stools, booths, and tables (don’t worry, you can get food here too), and the upstairs lounge, fully equipped with tables and a bar of its own. If you’re out on the town and need some grub (and it’s before 11pm, when they stop serving food), you’d be well advised to check out the upstairs area. It’s generally quieter than the rest of the join, which means you’ll get to eat your mozzarella sticks in piece while enjoying their generous (if slightly pricy) craft beer selection.
But Alleycat is worth visiting at any time of day, namely for its energetic take on comfort food staples: burgers, chicken wings, hot dogs, chili fries, and shakes (virgin and alcoholic) are all on the menu. There are no reservations, but plenty of deals; if you opt for takeaway, it’s 10% off, and students get 20% off on Monday, Tuesday, and Wednesday. The one problem? That darn cat (obsession). The menu is filled with cat puns (“not a cat person? try our hot dogs!”), there are pictures of cats all over, and one of the hard shakes is named “Cat Nip.” On the plus side, there’s free wifi—all the better to check out some “I Can Haz Cheezburger” memes. Come to think of it, we’re shocked that’s not their motto.
Starters from £4-6, mains from £7-8. Food served daily noon-11pm. Bar open until 1am.
FRENCH VILLAGE CAFÉ
RESTAURANT $$
99 Botanic Avenue
28 9031 3248
The first thing you have to understand about the French Village Café is that it’s a family business, and the family’s name is French. In other words, this isn’t a knockoff of a Parisian bistro—this is a 100% Belfast original, and has been since 1981. Whether you’re looking for a sit down meal or a sandwich to take to the nearby Botanic Gardens, French Village Café has you covered.
The menu is unapologetically bread-centric—this was founded as a bakery—which means one thing above all else: they’ve got some great sandwiches. For £2, you can pair any of these bad boys with a mug of soup and your choice of French fries (of course they’ve got more than one variety). And the soups, which change regularly, go far beyond tomato, pea, and chicken noodle. Check out their hearty cauliflower and chorizo blend. And if a restaurant that doubles as a bakery strikes fear into the heart of coeliacs, let it be known that gluten-free options are readily available.
Though it’s certainly not a flashy establishment, the French Village Café’s low-key style makes it one of the most attractive restaurants in Belfast: brick exterior, wood and tile walls on the inside, rustic wooden tables. As always, it’s the little things that make the difference—check out the cushions on the back booths, which are covered in burlap sacks.
The prettiest part of the whole place, however, might well be the outdoor seating area, with its views of the tree-lined Botanic Avenue. Enjoy your meal with some wine as the sun goes down—with a corkage charge of £1.50, the price is right.
Breakfast £4-7, sandwiches about £5, entrees £7 for lunch, £10-12 for dinner. Open M-F 7:30am-8pm, Sa-Su 9am-6pm.
RESTAURANT $$
35-43 Bedford Street
28 9072 7890
www.jdwetherspoon.co.uk/home/pubs/the-bridge-house
The Bridge House is where you go with a big group of friends. The meals are cheap, most of them come with a drink (alcoholic, no less), and the big tables can suit as big a group as you could like. It’s also got a great location—just a couple of blocks away from City Hall, it’s situated right in between many of Belfast’s hostels and the cool bars north of City Hall—the late nightclub Limelight is also exceedingly close.
The food covers pub classics, Irish cuisine, burgers, salads, paninis, and even a few Indian dishes (if you count chicken tikka masala). Everything is ordered at the bar, so your relationship with the wait staff might be a little impersonal; still, the employees are friendly and willing to answer questions about the menu or beer list.
Those great prices carry over to the alcoholic options. Unlike most of Belfast’s bars, the Bridge House will rarely charge more than £4 for a pint; most cost about £3. Even better are their pitcher deals; most go for about £12 or £11, but you can get any 2 for £15. Best of all: Pimm’s, the classic British fruit cup, is sold in pitchers for £6.65. If strawberry daiquiris or mojitos are a little too wimpy for you, then spend an extra £3 and they’ll add two additional shots of alcohol to your pitcher.
The space is fairly nondescript—you’ve got wall to wall carpeting, fairly low ceilings, and a small outdoor seating area—but it doesn’t matter when you’ve got great company and cheap eats.
£5 for sandwiches and starters, £7-10 for mains. £3-4 for pints. Open M-Th 8am-midnight, F-Sa 8am-1am, Su 8am-midnight.
NIGHTLIFE
APARTMENT
CLUB
2 Donegall Square West
28 9050 9777
Unlike Dublin’s notorious Bar with No Name, Apartment doesn’t resemble an actual apartment. Unless your apartment is a duplex with three bars and a restaurant area (zoning is a mess these days). But with its floor-to-ceiling window views of Belfast City Hall, you’ll wish it was one and that you lived there. You’ll find plenty of well-dressed young urban professionals sipping cocktails—the list is quite extensive—and chilling out after a long day’s work. And let’s face it—there’s no better place to kick back. With big couches, dark wooden walls, and a surprisingly well-priced food menu, the Apartment is both classy and relaxed. And those views of City Hall sure don’t hurt.
The music is loud but not overpowering. Despite the size, there’s no space for dancing, but if you hear a song you love (the soundtrack is generally ’80s-themed) you can definitely hold a singalong at your table. Still, the Apartment is generally not the place to go crazy on the dance floor (namely because it doesn’t even have a dance floor). Stop by on a late afternoon or before you hit up some other pubs—you’ll have some great conversation before going crazy elsewhere.
Cocktails £6; pints £4.
LOVE & DEATH INC.
BAR
10a Anne Street
28 9024 7222
If you think cocktails are for old fogeys and the girls on “Sex and the City” (Cosmopolitans, anyone?), then one visit to the ultra-cool Love and Death Inc. will change your opinion. In this self-proclaimed “cocktail speakeasy, eatery, music hall,” the list of drinks comes in a comic book-style menu and covers everything from classics like gin and tonics to more extravagant drinks like the Devil in a Red Gown (vodka, berry cordial, lemon juice, raspberry and kumquat jelly, egg white, and balsamic vinegar; don’t knock it until you try it!). On Friday or Saturday nights, you might find yourself having to wait a few minutes before you order, but the talented staff will whip up your cocktail ridiculously quickly.
They’ll also be happy to send food orders down to their kitchen. Though it’ll be difficult to grab a table during peak hours, the menu is served all day—stop by for lunch or in the late afternoon and you’ll have no problem. The mac and cheese is especially worth checking out.
Once you’ve got your drink and your grub, take a step back and appreciate the shabby-chic decor. The walls and tables are covered with bright turquoise tiles, while the wooden floors are charmingly rustic. On the walls, you’ve got posters of Johnny Cash, the Beatles, and Led Zeppelin; from the ceiling hang old records, action figures, and a bicycle.
If you like cocktails and hate comic books—hate everything that’s happened since the 1920s, in fact—then head on over to Love & Death Inc’s sister bar, Aether & Echo, a prohibition-inspired joint. And don’t worry—the gin wasn’t made in a bathtub.
£6-10 for cocktails, £3-5 for pints. Open M-W noon-1am, Th-Sa noon-3am, Su 1pm-midnight.
THE HUDSON
BAR
10-14 Gresham Street
28 9023 2322
You’ll find a lot of places in Belfast that cater to beer geeks (the words “craft beer” seem to pop up on every third bar), but the best of them is the Hudson. The beers on draught are always changing, there are always promotions (they give discounts on Belgian beer during the World Cup), and the knowledgeable staff is quick to provide samples of unfamiliar brews. Trust us—there will be quite a few of these. Don’t be swayed by the Guinness ads on the walls; it’s far from the best thing on tap, sacrilegious as that may sound.
During the weekends, you’ll also find a few spirits nerds: on Fridays and Saturdays, the bar offers 99 different whiskeys, taken from all around the world. Now this is globalization that we can get behind.
The atmosphere inside is decidedly laid back: floral wallpaper and Tiffany-style lamps will do that. The mood is mellow even during Thursday’s weekly trad sessions—no drunken rave-ups to be found here, though that means you’ll actually get to listen to the music.
Outside, the feel palpably changes: the Hudson has a massive beer garden, and the fact that it’s surrounded by residential apartments doesn’t seem to stop people from having a rowdily good time. Make sure you’ve got a few pounds on you, however—the outdoor bar is cash only.
£4-£5.50 for pints. Open M-W 11:30-1am, Th-Sa 11:30-2am, Su noon-midnight.
CUCKOO
CLUB
149 Lisburn Road
28 9066 7776
www.facebook.com/cuckoobelfast
To put it lightly, Cuckoo is over the top. There are three main floors and what seems like multitudes of mezzanines. There are chairs made from barrels (surprisingly comfortable) and couches with Egyptian hieroglyphs on them. Its dance floor has more disco balls than it knows what to do with. There’s a giant statue of an angry ostrich, a television that’s always showing movies like Fear and Loathing in Las Vegas, and a cocktail menu based on bizarre movie characters (try the “Ace Ventura” or the “Stifler’s Mom”). But when that self-consciously weird vibe is combined with a kick-ass selection of beers and liquor, the result is unstoppable. So it is with Cuckoo.
Given its massive space, this is the place to go with a large group. But if you’re traveling alone or with only one or two friends, Cuckoo is still the place to get down—there’s always something going on here. This place has more events than college orientation week. There’s a pub quiz Monday nights, open mics on Wednesdays (performers get two free beers, so keep this in mind if you’re trying to save cash), ping pong tournaments on Thursdays… the list goes on and on. And no matter what night of the week you swing by, you’ll be able to enjoy a great beer and check out their vast collection of games: air hockey, foosball, pinball, and the early arcade game Space Invaders are all up for grabs. And, of course, there’s the main selling point: the ping pong tables on the uppermost level. If you grew up playing beer pong in some suburban basement, this will really bring you back; however, the craft beers available at Cuckoo surely trump whatever swill you were underage drinking back then.
£3-4 for pints and shots. £2 drinks on “Cheapskate Tuesdays.” Open M-Th 2pm-midnight, F-Sa noon-1am, Su 2pm-midnight.
THE DIRTY ONION
BAR
3 Hill Street
28 9024 3712
The Dirty Onion proudly notes that they’re housed in one of Belfast’s oldest buildings (18th century ain’t nothing to scoff at; for all you geniuses out there, that means the 1700s). But tradition isn’t their main selling point—this is a bar, not a museum. And a party bar at that. The outdoor space is perhaps the biggest in Belfast, and it’s surely one of the most distinctive. Hemmed in by big, concrete walls, the beer garden is so shabby-chic that you might think people are throwing a party in a vacant lot. Muscle through the crowds and you’ll see the bar; you’ll also catch a glimpse of the second part of the beer garden, which exists under the original wooden frame of a 19th-century structure. Be careful where you drop your cigarettes—if you don’t smoke, you’ll think that you do after walking through the nicotine-happy crowd.
Inside, the atmosphere is much more traditional. The lighting’s dim, the tables are long, Guinness is on draught, and there are posters for Luis Buñuel’s surrealist film “Un Chien Andalou” on the walls. OK, maybe that last part’s a little different. But in a good way, of course.
Also on the premises is Yardbird, a roast chicken restaurant just a staircase away from the action. You may want to scarf a few wings down before you hit the bar—it’s never safe to drink on an empty stomach. Also, the chicken’s delicious.
£3-4 for a pint. Open M-Sa noon-1am, Su noon-midnight.
ESSENTIALS
Practicalities
• CASH: There are ATMs left and right in Belfast. There are two in Europa Bus Centre, accessible M-Sa 5am-10:45pm, Su 6am-10:30pm. If your bus gets in outside of those hours and you need cash, there’s a Danske Bank directly outside Europa Bus Centre, on Great Victoria Street; this is open 24/7. There is also an Ulster Bank ATM at the Botanic Road train station. While others are scattered throughout town, one central locale with a lot of ATMs is Donegal Square; you’ll find cash machines on the North, South, East, and West sides.
• POST OFFICE: The main one is at 12-16 Bridge Street; amenities include foreign currency exchange. Open from 9-5:30 M, W-Sa; open from 9:30-5:30 T.
• INTERNET CAFES: Browsers Internet Cafe, 77 Dublin Road, M-Sa 10am-9pm, Su 10am-8pm. 28 9032 2272.
• PHARMACIES: Urban Pharmacy, 56 Dublin Road, M-F 8am-8pm, Sa 9am-5:30pm, Su 1-5:30pm. 28 9024 6336. Boots Pharmacy, 35-47 Donegal Place, M-W, F 8am-7pm, Th 8am-9pm, Sa 8:30-7pm, Su 1-6pm. 28 9024 2332.
• HOSPITALS: Belfast City Hospital, 51 Lisburn Road, 28 9032 9241. In an emergency, dial 112 or 999.
Getting Around
Somewhat confusingly, Belfast’s main bus system is called the Metro. Don’t think about it too much. Tickets can be purchased at the Donegall Square West Metro kiosk, which is where many of the routes begin. If you want a taxi, your best bet is Fona Cab (fonacab.com; 28 9033 3333). The lowest rates is £2.50 for the first 0.1 miles, then £1.25 per every additional mile. You won’t want to take a road trip, but if your pub crawl ended way too far from your hostel, this is the way to go.
A river runs through Galway. That’s not so significant, you think. What European city doesn’t have a river? Didn’t they found these old places specifically because of where the river was? But Galway is really defined by the river—the city is located where the Corrib feeds into Galway Bay, and certain portions are carved up by canals, dams, and water locks. Because of this, Galway feels more maritime than most Irish port cities.
It also feels a lot more bohemian than most Irish cities—that’s thanks to the large student population (NUI Galway has its campus here). There’s lots to explore, from craft beer bars to daunting secondhand bookshops. And if exploring’s your thing, be sure to take a day trip out to the more rural regions of County Galway. All in all, this college town is worth visiting even if it wasn’t your alma mater. You’ll be just as fond after a weekend.
SIGHTS
CONNEMARA NATIONAL PARK
PARK
7 610 0252
Galway City lacks open spaces on the order of Dublin’s massive Phoenix Park, but County Galway is home to the sprawling Connemara National Park, which covers over 7,000 acres. If you feel like you need to get away from it all, this is where you head. The main attraction are the four hiking trails, one of which takes you to the very top of Diamond Hill (400m up, and with a view to match anything you’ve seen in).
If you’re the sort who always thought views looked better on postcards, Connemara National Park has more to offer than just scenery. The park is home to many different kinds of wildlife, including the striking Connemara ponies; resist the urge to ride one. You can also retire to the tea rooms and enjoy some drinks and pastries; shelter has its perks, you know?
Getting there, however, is kind of a hassle. You’ll most likely need to take a tour bus (it’ll run you about £20), as the public transportation is limited and infrequent. If you’ve rented a car or somehow have access to one (no, we are not endorsing grand theft auto), the route is fairly straightforward. Take the N59 to Recess, then take a right and drive down the Inagh Valley, then turn left for Letterfrack. Drive through Letterfrack and you’ll come to the visitor center. And to top it all off, there’s free parking. If only that was enough to justify the cost of the rental car.
Free—even parking! Visitor center is open daily Mar-May 10am-5:30pm, 9:30am-6:30pm Jun-Aug, Sept-Oct 10am-5:30pm.
KINLAY HOUSE HOSTEL GALWAY
HOSTEL $
Merchants Road, Eyre Square
91 565 244
Height makes a big difference. Kinlay Galway would be a good hostel even if it wasn’t three flights off the ground, but the simple fact of having to climb up a giant staircase or taking an elevator ride (the staircase is truly massive; we highly recommend you take the elevator) lends it an air of elegance. It doesn’t hurt that every room has a great view, be it of the surrounding street or of the hostel’s courtyard.
Kinlay Galway doesn’t offer anything truly out of the ordinary, but its rendition of the usual amenities is always more than just the usual. Galway’s pubs might close early, but the Kinlay Galway lobby is open until four a.m., and the staff is perfectly happy to let you drink beer with your friends—just as long as you’re not too rowdy or loud. Like a lot of hostels, they have computers you can use to access your email and such; unlike a lot of hostels, they have Macs. The continental breakfast is much bigger than most (scones, muesli, and different varieties of jam are all up for grabs), which is all the better for your lunch (not that we’d ever suggest you stuff a few slices of bread in your pocket).
Ensuite bathrooms aren’t guaranteed, but the hall bathrooms are large and usually have more showers, meaning you won’t be standing in your towel waiting for strangers to finish cleaning themselves. The dorms aren’t the largest, but a ten-man that just opened provides a lot of living space; don’t fear the thought of living with nine strangers in a room like this.
£17 a night for dorms, £20 for weekends. £26 for privates. Reception open 24/7.
SAVOY HOSTEL
HOSTEL $$
Eglinton Street, across from the main post office
91 375 421
The wall-to-wall carpeting in this hostel may remind you of The Shining, but the Savoy Hostel offers a lot more “play” than the Overlook Hotel (though if you need to work, they do offer Wi-Fi and computer access). The basement common space could conceivably fit all the hostel guests at once (we haven’t double-checked this with the fire department) and makes space for numerous tables, couches, and a large kitchen. The one downside: no windows, which sort of puts a damper on the bright color scheme.
The rooms, however, are well-lit and exceptionally clean. With their abundance of space furniture (there’s a chair for each bed in the room, just in case you all need to sit down and have a roommate talk or something), they feel more like hotel rooms than your average hostel dorm. Hotel rooms with multiple beds and big lockers, but hotel rooms nonetheless. The best part are the ensuite bathrooms—these are some of the nicest (and biggest) showers that you’ll encounter in Irish hostels. If you forget your towel, you can rent one from reception for €2. Rooms go up to six beds, and privates are also available.
Like most hostels, they offer a free continental breakfast. If you want something more filling (what, you got a problem with corn flakes or something?), they’ve got a deal with a local hotel that allows you to get a full Irish breakfast for €5. Not too shabby.
Dorms £18 on weekdays, £23 on weekends; privates from £28. Reception open 24hr.
STREET
Quay Street
With its cobblestoned streets, traditional pubs, and hostels, Quay Street is Galway’s equivalent of Temple Bar. But don’t let that association with Dublin’s infamous district keep you away; Quay Street is one of the most charming alleys in Galway. Despite its small size—you can walk up and down its entirely in about five minutes—it’s got tons of restaurants, bars, and unique stores.
One of the most popular establishment is the Quays, a bar with an interior designed to look like a ship. If you take a visit and start feeling seasick, it’s probably time to lay off the Guinness.
Other highlights include McDonagh’s, a restaurant that’s been serving unbelievable fish and chips since 1902; Fat Freddy’s, a pizza joint that’s known as a date spot; and Martine’s, a restaurant with the coveted domain name of “winebar.ie.”
Since this portion of Galway is closed to cars, pedestrians flood Quay Street most days. Many restaurants and pubs offer outdoor seating, so grab a table and check out the human parade. You’ll also have a great spot for listening to Galway’s many buskers. If the weather’s not ideal, many of the pubs have trad sessions regularly (surprise, surprise), so you’ll still be able to take in some live music.
Quay Street is located just a couple blocks from Galway’s city centre; the surrounding districts are also worth checking out. Walking towards the bay, you’ll come to the Spanish Arch section of Galway, named after a surviving portion of Galway’s city walls. Here, you’ll find the Galway City Museum.
GALWAY CATHEDRAL
CHURCH
9 156 3577
You’ll be able to see the Galway Cathedral’s distinctive green dome from a lot of places in Galway, and maybe that’s why they decided to build it in 1965; a prison stood there previously, and it must have gotten awful depressing to stare at that all day.
Since it was built in the ‘60s, Galway Cathedral isn’t exactly a medieval artifact (one look at the stylized stained glass windows will tell you that), but that doesn’t mean it’s not an intriguing piece of architecture. The space inside is vast and cavernous—you’ll be resisting the urge to yell “echo.” If you’re wearing rain boots, they will almost certainly squeak on the marble floors. As big as the cathedral is, there’s only one bathroom—and it’s specifically designated for those attending services.
Masses, which occur fairly regularly, are the one obstacle to viewing the cathedral; you’re not supposed to circulate while they’re in progress. If you end up doing so anyway, the church also offers regular confession hours.
Over the summer, the Cathedral hosts concerts that make use of its massive organ, installed in the ‘60s and renovated just a few years ago. Unlike the experience of viewing the cathedral, these are not free; £12 for regular tickets, and £10 for students, seniors, and the like. You can also check out their bookshop, which sells religious books alongside other souvenirs.
Getting there is pretty easy—just look for the dome and walk towards it!
Free, suggested donation £2. Open daily 8:30am-6:30pm.
MUSEUM
Spanish Parade
9 153 2460
When you get to Galway, you may have a couple questions. What exactly is a Galway Hooker? What were those giant stones we saw on the drive into the city? And what’s this Spanish Arch everyone keeps talking about? All these questions (and many more) can be answered at the Galway City Museum, which is devoted to…ok, do we really need to spell it out for you? Yes, it’s about the history of Galway. If all the talk about Galway’s fishing industry makes you hungry, you can get a meal at the museum’s restaurant, the Kitchen, which is located on the ground floor.
Though there are plenty of artifacts from neolithic times (most of them on loan from the National Museum of Ireland), the exhibits on more recent history are also worth checking out. The room about Galway’s musical history is particularly interesting. Here you can see such artifacts as a 1980 U2 poster, old dresses worn to dance-halls, and suits worn by the Royal Showband. The dresses are all right, but you’ll be hard pressed to believe these guys actually wore the suits. Luckily, there are vintage pictures (and record covers!) to prove it. In addition to these historical exhibits, the museum features rotating art exhibits; works are generally by local artists, though there are occasional loans from the other museums in Ireland.
Getting there is a piece of cake; just walk down Quay Street, then take a left instead of crossing the Corrib via Father Griffin Road. Walk through the Spanish Arch and the museum will be on your left.
Free. Open Tu-Sa 10am-5pm, Su noon-5pm.
FOOD
MCDONAGH’S
SEAFOOD $
22 Quay Street
9 156 5001
If you happen to stumble into McDonagh’s without knowing what they serve, you won’t be in the dark for long. There’s a swordfish head sticking out of the wall, there’s a fake lobster in a lobster trap, there are paintings of ships every way you turn, and there seem to be barnacles everywhere. This is a seafood joint, one where you can order anything from cod to stingray. Dubious about the latter option? McDonagh’s has been in business since 1902; they know exactly what they’re doing. They wouldn’t be able to sell commemorative t-shirts if they didn’t.
Indeed, the fish and chips is renowned for being some of the best in Galway, if not all in Ireland. Since it’s just a few minutes away from the docks of Galway Bay, you’d be hard-pressed to find fresher specimens. And the chips ain’t half bad either.
If you’ve got time for a full meal, grab a seat in the restaurant area. The menu is predictably seafood-centric (baked cod, roast scallops, smoked salmon, grilled mackerel), but you can also order a steak if you’ve got some weird anti-pescatarian thing going on. Rest assured that you can get fish and chips in this area too.
If it’s a nice day, be sure to grab one of the tables outside. McDonagh’s is located at the very end of pedestrian-heavy Quay Street, giving you the perfect opportunity to people watch while you chow down on some chowder. These tables go quickly, however, so come by early if you want to beat the rush.
£6-7 for fish, £2.70 for chips. Open M-Sa noon-11pm, Su 2-10pm.
RESTAURANT $$
38-39 Shop Street
9 156 2259
Most general stores don’t have high-quality restaurants attached to them, but McCambridge’s isn’t your typical general store. The shop was founded in 1925, and has become a Galway institution in the time since; though the restaurant was only opened a couple years back, it’s quickly approaching a similar status. On any given afternoon, you’re likely to see people waiting on the stairs leading up to McCambridge’s, as if they’re waiting for St. Peter to open the door to heaven. Okay, maybe it’s not that good, but the food at Upstairs at McCambridge’s is definitely good enough to wait for.
The menu is eclectic, featuring everything from venison to quesadillas. Dish for dish, the most appealing is the Sunday brunch menu, which features a wide variety of omelets and pancakes (not to mention prawns).
The large windows give you a great view of Galway’s streets, though you might be more captivated by the awe-inspiring wine cabinet. And if the bar looks familiar, that’s probably because it’s taken from the set of the film “Titanic.” And you thought Belfast had a monopoly on that kind of thing.
The general store is worth checking out for its beer and liquor selection alone; the wines are global, and the beer fridge includes bottles by revered brewers like Mikkeller. If you don’t have time for a sit-down meal, grab a sandwich at the takeaway bar downstairs.
Entrées £10-11; brunch £6-7. Open M-W 9am-5:30pm, Th-Sa 9am-10pm, Su 10:30am-6pm.
CREOLE
CAJUN $$
49 Lower Dominick Street
9 189 5926
Lower Dominick Street is full of trendy and upscale restaurants (and then, somewhat confusingly, there’s Apache Pizza, possibly the worst chain in Ireland), but Creole stands out from the pack with its hearty take on Cajun classics—you’re not going to find another place like this in Galway. Steak, baby back ribs, and gumbo are all on the menu, along with more Irish staples like baked potatoes. Get excited to chow down with some seriously flavorful food, whether you’re going for dinner or Sunday brunch. The idea of a Cajun-themed restaurant in Galway is unlikely, but the strength of the food erases any doubts you might have. Just as good as the main courses are the desserts—key lime pie, donuts, and mud pie may not be great for your heart, but they’ll certainly make your stomach feel good.
The decor is spare but sets the tone well—there are masks and brass band instruments on the walls, and each table has a miniature cactus. The sole misstep is the gaudy chandelier—just don’t look up and it’ll be fine. The music is mellow but funky; expect to hear jazz and classic soul instrumentals. The beer and wine selection is small but tastefully curated. Somewhat improbably, the venue hosts hen and stag parties; we’re sure they don’t get too out of hand.
Lunch £8-9, dinner £16-20. Open M-Sa noon-10pm, Su 1-10pm.
NIGHTLIFE
THE SALTHOUSE
PUB
Ravens Terrace
9 144 1550
www.galwaybaybrewery.com/salthouse
Like many pubs in Ireland, the Salthouse has an Irish flag on its ceiling. Alongside it are two other flags: one for Brooklyn Brewery, and one for Sierra Nevada. If the 23 beers on tap didn’t tip you off, this is a place for people who care about beer. Spend a little bit of time here, and you’ll quickly become one of those people.
Even though the Salthouse is owned by the Galway Bay Brewery (all of their beers are on tap), its range reaches far beyond the burgeoning Irish craft beer scene. The selection is truly international: Belgium, the United States, Germany, and other brewing stalwarts are well represented. Despite the small size of the bar—there’s only room for about eight or nine people to sit at the counter—there are several bartenders working at all times, which may seem excessive until you realize these people aren’t just here to serve you drinks, they’re here to help you navigate the imposing selection. Ask them what’s good and they’ll respond “well, what do you like? Ales, lagers, stouts?” You’re in good hands here. Keep an eye out for the specials, many of which actually offer a deal: a bottle of Mikkeler for £5, for instance, which is better than you’ll see in some off-licences.
The space itself is fairly small, but a stone fireplace and eclectic decorations add to the homey atmosphere. Unlike many pubs in Ireland, you won’t hear any music—just the happy roar of conversation. On a Friday night, people will spill out underneath the small awning in front, having a smoke or just getting some fresh air as they enjoy their beers.
Most pints are between £4 and £5, though certain brews can cost up to £9.
THE BLUE NOTE
CLUB
3 William Street
9 158 9116
Though Galway doesn’t lack for clubs, this is where the serious dancing goes on. With real DJ’s on hand (yes, the type that actually spin vinyl records), the Blue Note serves up a potent mix of vintage soul, funk, and R&B tracks. There might be some vague antipathy towards modern music (the tip jar is labelled “Justin Bieber Assassination Fund), but that hardly matters when the DJ’s playing classic Motown tracks. The dance floor isn’t massive, but there’s ample space for you to strut your stuff. Even if you don’t go for the dancing, you might find yourself grooving after a pint or two; after all, who can resist songs like “I Want You Back” or “I Got You (I Feel Good)”?
Away from the floor, the Blue Note keeps the cool factor going strong. There are paintings of Wonder Woman and Walter White on the brick walls inside, and the large outdoor area is lit with Christmas lights. At the bar, there’s a healthy selection of local and craft brews, as well as the regulars like Guinness. If you prefer harder stuff, they’ve got a generous selection of liquors and spirits—shots go for about £5—and know that they’ve got Jägermeister on tap.
The Blue Note also has an off-licence that’s open until 11, which means you can buy bottles of beer or liquor to take home with you. Perfect if you want to keep the party going back at your hostel.
THE CRANE BAR
BAR
2 Sea Road
9 158 7419
Travel can be wearying. Spending time in anonymous airports, train stations, and hostels can take a toll; haven’t you seen “Up in the Air”? If those bad vibes should happen to strike you in Galway, there’s only one place to go: a tiny neighborhood joint called the Crane Bar. Here, you’ll find families or groups of old friends gathered together in a corner, fathers and sons sharing pints of Guinness, and local musicians playing traditional music. Truly heartwarming. It’s what so many “traditional-style” pubs aspire to be—a genuine neighborhood staple. The little bits of cheesiness (exhibit A: their collection of novelty mugs, emblazoned with slogans like “I’ll be mature if you will”) just add to the Crane Bar’s endearing nature.
The walls are decorated with sketches, black and white photos, and old beer advertisements for Guinness, Budweiser, and Heineken. All of these are also on draught, which is a pretty spooky coincidence. The liquor selection isn’t huge, but you’re not here for fancy cocktails: you’re here for company, music, and a creamy pint. If you get a bit nippish, they have chips (crisps, rather) and peanuts available for sale. The traditional music happens on a nightly basis—share a few friendly words of conversation downstairs, then head to the second floor (first floor, rather) to hear some great Irish tunes (and no, that doesn’t mean U2 songs).
Pints £4.30, spirits £4.20.
ESSENTIALS
Practicalities
• CASH: ATMs in central locales include the Bank of Ireland ATM at 43 Eyre Square, the Ulster Bank ATM at 33 Eyre Square, the Bank of Ireland ATM at 22 Mainguard Street, and the Bank of Ireland ATM in the Quays Bar and Restaurant. All of these except the last are accessible 24 hours.
• POST OFFICE: Galway Post Office, 3 Eglinton Street (~ Open M 9am-5:30pm, Tu 9:30am-5:30pm, W-Sa 9am-5:30. Foreign exchange available here. 91 534 727.)
• INTERNET CAFÉS: Netcafe Galway, 9 Eyre Square (~ Open M-F 9am-10pm, Sa 10am-10pm, Su noon-9pm. Cash only. 91 393 750.)
Emergency
• PHARMACIES: Boots Pharmacy, 35 Shop Street (~Open M-W 9am-7pm, Th-F 9am-9pm, Sa 9am-7pm, Su 11:30am-6pm. 91 561 022.) University Late Night Pharmacy, 1-2 University Halls, Newcastle Road (~Open M-F 9am-9pm, Sa 9:30am-6:30pm, Su noon-6pm.)
• HOSPITALS: University Hospital Galway, Newcastle Road, Galway City. In an emergency, dial} 112 or 999.
Getting Around
Galway is a very walkable city (though be sure to bring a map, as there are numerous small side streets), but if it starts raining or you can’t bear another step, the city is served by Bus Eireann. The most popular and frequently running route is the 401, which goes from Eyre Square to Salthill every 20 minutes. The 402, which also leaves at Eyre Square, has a number of popular destinations on its route, including the Galway Cathedral and NUI Galway. Bus fares are generally about £2.
When you arrive in Kilkenny, many questions will occur to you. Why are all the restaurants just as expensive as they are in Dublin? Why are there so many really nice hotels? What’s up with all the craft galleries? Why does it feel like you can’t turn around without seeing a health food store? And what’s this about an internationally renowned comedy festival?
Kilkenny, with its influx of vacationers, gorgeous scenery, and cultural heritage, occupies a very special place in the Emerald Isle—it’s basically the Irish Hamptons. But Long Island doesn’t have anything to compare to the Kilkenny’s history. Much of the town still looks as it did back in the 1600s. There’s much to treasure in the so-called Marble City, from excellent Italian food to hundred-foot medieval towers—that you can still climb.
SIGHTS
KILKENNY CASTLE
CASTLE
The Parade
56 770 4100
On first glance, Kilkenny is a sleepy little town. Sure, it’s got some medieval remnants, but what town in Ireland doesn’t? But Kilkenny was actually a site of tremendous importance in Irish history, and there’s no better place to learn that importance than at Kilkenny Castle. Today, the site looks like the beautiful country residence it is, but the tours remind you of the history that literally rocked this castle to its foundations. Most castles fell into disrepair because of simple neglect. Kilkenny Castle was partially destroyed during the Irish Civil War, when Irish Republicans were under siege in the structure.
MACGABHAINNS HOSTEL
HOSTEL $
24 Vicar Street
56 777 0970
http://macgabhainnsbackpackers.com
This family-run hostel may not be the place to rage with your frat bros—there’s a baby living here—but you’re unlikely to find a hostel that feels more like home. Granted, it’s a home where you’ll share a room with at least three other people, but it’s a home nonetheless.
With its charming familial atmosphere, MacGabhainns is the perfect place to go after you’ve stayed in a few hostels. The familiar amenities are there—free WiFi, DIY breakfast in the mornings, a room to sit and watch TV—but there’s none of the commercial sheen that you might find in other hostels. Best of all are the bathrooms, which feature real bathtubs and showers that actually feature water pressure—you’ll be tempted to take off your flip-flops.
There are two types of rooms: four-bed dorms and six-bed dorms. Not the utmost in privacy, but the bunk beds and the rooms are pretty large. The rooms are a little dark (the windows are small), but clean and well-kept. It also has a great location (not that anything in Kilkenny has a truly bad location), being right next to the Cathedral Church of St. Canice and within two blocks of a post office.
Dorms from £15-20. Reception open daily 24hr. No curfew.
LANIGAN’S
HOSTEL $
28/29 Rose Inn Street
56 772 1718
The fact that it’s affiliated with a bar might give you pause. That won’t be helped by the fact that you check in at the bar. “Are the rooms beneath the counter?”, you wonder. But don’t worry—though you’re close enough to the bar to grab a pint in 10 seconds flat, the living quarters are actually separated from the bar by a narrow alley, meaning your slumber won’t be interrupted by any drunken singalongs. There’s also a night watchman on weekends, so the chances of any drunken pub-goers trying to sneak into the room are nil.
Inside the actual hostel, the rooms are large and labyrinthine; they’re configured like suites, with a hallway leading to a bathroom, a closet, and a gigantic bedroom. The beds are nested into the wall, leaving the room with a ton of space in the middle; the twelve-man, the biggest room, is especially big, though the other rooms (the smallest is the 4-person room) aren’t too shabby either. There’s no food or drink allowed in the rooms, but if you’re hungry you can always make your way to the bar; for an extra fee, you can have breakfast there daily, which is sure to be more filling and convenient than the DIY continental breakfast offered at most hostels.
Dorms from £16. Reception open daily 24hr.
In the 1640s, the castle became the home of the Irish confederate parliament, a short-lived Catholic government that was eradicated by Oliver Cromwell. After staying for years in the Butler Family, the castle was sold to the public for £50 in 1967. Talk about a steal.
If the tour only appeals to you in the same way an open house for an expensive mansion does, then you should know that the Long Gallery is in fact available to rent out for private events. Sadly, that incredible opportunity comes with a stipulation: it’s only for classy events, like “classical music recitals, poetry readings and pre-dinner drinks receptions.” In other words, you probably can’t use it to play beer pong.
Getting here is easy; if you walk down John Street from the train station, you’ll see it on your left as you cross the River Nore. If the line to get in gives you pause, spend a bit of time admiring Kilkenny Castle Park.
£6, seniors £4, students/children £2.50. Open daily Mar 9:30am-5pm, Apr-May 9:30am-5:30pm, Jun-Aug 9am-5:30pm, Sept 9:30am-5:30pm, Oct-Feb 9:30am-4:30pm.
BLACK ABBEY
CHURCH
Abbey Street
56 772 1279
Black Abbey was founded in the 13th century as a Dominican abbey and that’s the role it still fills today. But it’s had a pretty bizarre history in the meantime, largely due to the religious conflicts that are seen so often in Irish history (at one point it served as a courthouse and there was also a time when the Dominicans were allowed to practice but had to rent out the space). But since the 1860s, it’s been a functioning church, and today a solemn attitude reigns in the place; there are still monks here, after all. That means you’ll have to keep your voice down. Try not to get into any heated arguments about medieval architecture. While the nearby Canice Cathedral is also a functioning church, it’s much more geared towards the casual tourist; in fact, they even charge admission.
Regardless, there’s a lot worth seeing at the Black Abbey, even if you’ll have to wait until the walk home to talk about it. None of the stained glass is medieval—most of it is self-consciously modern—but it’s all very pleasant to look at. The eclectic architecture (though it was originally built in the 13th century, sections were added in the 14th and 16th as well) might just inspire a bit of debate.
Walk down High Street, wait until it turns into Parliament Street, then take a right on—you guessed it—Abbey Street. Free. No real hours, per se, but the first church event is at 10:15am and the last is at 6:45pm. Visiting between these times is probably best.
CASTLECOMER DISCOVERY PARK
PARK
The Estate Yard, Castlecomer, Co.
56 444 0707
Kilkenny Castle Park is all well and good, but Castlecomer Discovery Park is the place to really experience nature in County Kilkenny. Somewhat improbably founded in a failed mining town, Castlecomer Discovery Park features over 80 acres of forest for you to traipse around in, along with exhibits on the mining history, two massive lakes, and a rock-climbing wall. Be warned, however, that while admission to the park is free, some of the special attractions do have costs attached. Renting a boat for half an hour will set you back £10, while the astonishing Tree Top Walk (you’ll be walking along a rope bridge nearly 10m off the ground) will cost you £12.50 (and you have to book in advance).
This being Kilkenny, there are of course multiple craft galleries and workshops on site. If you get caught in the rain, these establishments are the perfect place to wait out a quick shower. Castlecomer has a stone-carver, a ceramicist, and even some interior designers! After a particularly long hike has left you bereft of calories, stop by the café or, even better, the candy shop.
It’s a 20-minute drive from Kilkenny City, but you can also take public transportation; just take the 717 or 7 from the Ormonde Street stop. This will take about an hour, so make sure you have something to read on the way there. You’ll definitely be tired enough to nap on the way back.
Free admission, £2 for parking. Some attractions have additional costs. Open M-F 10am-5pm, Sa-Su 10:30am-5pm.
THE BLACKBIRD GALLERY
GALLERY
The Castle Yard
87 784 3015
Unless you have an extra couple hundred euro that you just can’t bear the thought of not spending, most of what’s for sale at the Blackbird Gallery will be out of our price range. Let’s just say that you can buy someone a gift card for up to £1000. You’ll also probably need an extra suitcase, and a big one at that (you can’t really fold art). Still, don’t let that dissuade you from paying a visit to the Blackbird, which brings together some of Ireland’s most talented artists. Think of it as the “Now That’s What I Call Music!” of Irish craft and design. But crafts aren’t the only things on display, though the bowls and glasswork are certainly of note. The gallery also highlights contemporary artists like Louis Le Brocquy, whose work appears in the Guggenheim Museum and the Tate Modern (his work retails for at least £5000).
The gallery itself has a low-key beauty—it’s located in the Kilkenny Design Centre complex, alongside some studios and directly in front of the Butler House and Gardens. Big windows add plenty of natural light. But the focus, as it should be, is on the art. Take a look around, and be sure to buy a lottery ticket when you head back to Kilkenny proper—maybe you’ll get a little extra cash to take home a souvenir.
Free. Open W-F 11am-4pm, Sa 11am-5pm.
FOOD
RISTORANTE RINUCCINI
ITALIAN $$$
1 The Parade
56 776 1575
Step into Restaurant Rinuccini and you’ll swear you’ve been transported to Italy—an Italy that exclusively uses Irish meat products, sure, but Italy nonetheless. Breadsticks are on the table. Opera’s on the soundtrack. The waiter says something you don’t quite understand—oops, he just has an exceptionally thick Irish accent.
Still, Ristorante Rinuccini offers some of the best Italian food you’re likely to get in Ireland. With tasteful decoration (dig those reproductions of Renaissance paintings), an adventurous menu, and a generous wine list, it’s also the place to go for a classy meal in Kilkenny. A greenhouse-type area towards the front offers some spectacular views of Kilkenny Castle. For those who don’t appreciate their meal being interrupted by people continually coming and going, try to nab a table in the intimate back room, where stone walls and red carpets set an even classier tone.
The restaurant boasts an extensive menu that shies away from the well-worn classics (instead of chicken parm, try some porchetta) in favor of more adventurous dishes, most of which are heavy on the meat—and, unfortunately, the cost. It’s neither a place for vegetarians nor tightwads, but if you’ve been spending money wisely (i.e., grabbing lunch from your hostel’s continental breakfast), Ristorante Rinuccini is definitely worth visiting. And surprisingly enough, it offers one of the best takeaway deals you’re likely to find in all of Ireland: a pound of homemade lasagna for £6.
Lunch £10-12, pasta £16-18, entrees £24-27. Nearby: Kilkenny Castle, The Hole in the Wall. Open M-F noon-3pm and 5-10pm, Sa noon-3:30 and 5-10pm, Su noon-3:30 and 5-9:30pm.
SANDWICHES $
3 Canal Square
56 775 2212
www.facebook.com/blaablaablaasandwiches
The name of this takeout joint is sarcastic, of course. These people really care about sandwiches—despite the fact that they rarely charge more than £5 for one. Step inside the tiny space and you’ll be confronted with a massive menu. The bacon, brie, and cranberry jam combination has to be tasted to be believed, but there are some more traditional choices if you can’t bring yourself to try anything beyond a ham and cheese (it’s hard, we know).
Don’t let the cheap prices make you think these sandwiches are good for a snack. Get one of these bad boys and you’ll be set for most of the day—as a follow-up, we suggest going to one of Kilkenny’s many tapas places and ordering only one dish (you’ll get a couple dirty looks, but you’ll also avoid indigestion).
There are a few tables and benches outside, giving you the perfect opportunity to admire the River Nore as you scarf down some delicious eats. If river views give you the chills, then take a short walk to Kilkenny Castle Park, where you can lounge around on the grass. The friendly staff will be sure to carefully pack your sandwich in a paper bag, so transporting it is a non-issue.
Between £4-6 for a sandwich. Nearby: Bridie’s Bar & General Store, The Hole in the Wall, Brewery Corner, Kilkenny Castle, Lanigan’s. Open M-F 8:30am-3:30pm, Sa 9am-4pm.
NIGHTLIFE
THE HOLE IN THE WALL
WINE BAR
17 High Street
87 807 5650
The Hole in the Wall, a wine bar off of High Street, is a time machine. Much of the Kilkenny you see today was built in the early 17th century, but the Hole in the Wall is one of the few places where the interior remains unchanged. “You get to see what the houses were really like,” says Michael Conway, the local doctor who owns and operates the bar. Indeed, stepping into the Hole in the Wall is a powerful antidote to the so-called “traditional” pubs; the walls and floor are bare stone, the room is cramped, and there’s a bit of a draft. Yet the atmosphere is electrifying—this is nearly exactly what the place would have looked like in the 1580s, when the house was built by the Archer family. Conway also takes inspiration from the actual bar that existed here during the 1780s, when the space had its heyday.
The Hole in the Wall may not be for people who like their history during the daytime, but the variety of wines and bottled beers mean it’s not just a museum piece. The selection is small but on point; let Conway recommend a wine or beer for you if you’re not familiar with any of the names behind the counter. You’re not going to come across a vintage from 1783, but there are some fine wines nonetheless.
£5-6 for a glass of wine. Nearby: Brewery Corner, Blaa Blaa Blaa Sandwiches, Ristorante Rinuccini. Open M 7-11pm, Tu 3-7pm, W-Th 7-11pm, F 4pm-1am, Sa 11am-1am, Su 11am-11pm.
BREWERY CORNER
BAR
29 Parliament Street
56 780 5081
www.facebook.com/brewerycorner
Now that you’re outside of the thriving urban centers of Galway or Dublin, you might think that you’ll be drinking Guinness until you get home. Not so! You’ll be able to get Smithwick’s in a lot of places (not to mention Coors Light). And if none of those tickle your fancy, rest assured that there are craft beer joints out in the boonies. Case in point: the Brewery Corner in Kilkenny, a bar operated by the Carlow Brewing Company (Bottles of O’Hara’s, one of their brands, are a common sight in Ireland). The number of beers on draught is in the double digits, and they have legions more in bottles behind the counter. They’ve even got a beer brewed specially for the bar—the Widow’s Retro Pale Ale, named in honor of the Widow McGrath, a bar that used to occupy the space. If you’re not into beer, there’s a vast selection of whiskeys and other liquors to choose from—most cost about £5 or £6.
But though the Brewery Corner may make your beer geek friend salivate, it’s not just a place for people to discuss the phenomenology of hops. The long bar and plentiful tables mean it’s a great place to go with a group of friends, and the surprisingly cheap pints (well, cheap compared to Dublin) mean that you can all knock a few back.
Pints between £4 and £5, whiskeys between £5 and £6. Nearby: Macgabhainn’s Hostel, The Hole in the Wall. Open M-Th noon-11:30pm, F-Sa noon-12:30am, Su noon-11pm.
BRIDIE’S BAR & GENERAL STORE
BAR
72 John Street
56 776 5133
When you get to the above address, you’ll see a general store, and a rather bizarre one at that. Pay no heed to the whoopee cushions, lunchboxes, and goose fat for sale—we told you this was a bizarre store—and walk to the back, where Bridie’s Bar awaits. There’s still a bit of quirkiness—behind the bar, six painted teacups spell out BRIDIE—but the general tone is one of relaxation. You’re not going to find anyone ripping Jägerbombs here (although Jägermeister is available). It’s a quiet, wood-paneled space, lit by candles, windows, and the occasional electric light. In short, this is the place to quietly sip a glass of whisky, and they’ve got a quite a few varieties behind the bar (most are between £4 and £7, though you can certainly splurge and get some Midleton Very Rare for £16). With its small tables, it’s also the place to go with smaller groups—there’s only one large table indoors, though the beer garden has a few more options.
It also boasts one of the better beer selections in Kilkenny—plenty of Carlow Brewing Company beers are on tap, as well as several from McGargles, a family brewery that claims it was “never established.”
Between £4 and £5 for a pint, between £4 and £7 for spirits. Nearby: Matt the Miller’s, Blaa Blaa Blaa Sandwiches. M-W 11am-10pm, Th-Sa 6pm-2am, Su 11am-10pm.
ESSENTIALS
Practicalities
• MAIN POST OFFICE: between 72 and 74 High Street. ( Open M 9am-5:30pm, Tu 9:30am-5:30pm, W-F 9-5:30pm, Sa 9am-1pm.
• ATMS: There are two 24hr. ATMs at the Bank of Ireland, located at the junction between High Street and St. Kieran’s Street (right by the giant sculpture of St. Canice’s head). This is also approximately where High Street becomes Parliament Street.
Emergency
• EMERGENCY NUMBERS: 112 and 999.
• HOSPITAL: St. Luke’s General Hospital: Freshford Road, Kilkenny. 56 778 5000.
• PHARMACY: Boots Pharmacy: M-Sa 8:30am-6pm, Su 10am-6pm. Heavy on the beauty products, but has the essentials too. Open later than the other pharmacies on High/Parliament Streets, of which there are several.
Getting Around
Getting around the city of Kilkenny is a breeze. There’s no bus system, but the city itself is so small that you certainly don’t need one. The train and bus station is five minutes away from the city center.
VISAS
Citizens of almost all major developed countries (including Australia, Canada, New Zealand, the UK, and the US) do not need visas to enter the Republic of Ireland. Citizens of these countries can stay for up to 90 days without a visa, but after this period will have to apply for a longer-term visa. Note that the Republic of Ireland is not a signatory of the Schengen Agreement, which means it is not a part of the free movement zone that covers most of the EU. The advantage of this is that non-EU citizens can visit Ireland without eating into the 90-day limit on travel within the Schengen area. Some travelers have been known to use Ireland as a convenient location for “stopping the Schengen clock” and extending their Eurotrip. The only real disadvantage of Ireland’s non-Schengen status is that you will be subject to border controls on entry, so don’t forget your passport.
Those hoping to study or work in Ireland will have to obtain special visas to do so; consult your nearest Irish embassy or consulate for information on applying. You will generally need a letter of acceptance from a university or company in order to apply. You can find more information on all visa questions at the website of the Irish Department of Foreign Affairs and Trade (www.dfa.ie).
Since Northern Ireland is in the United Kingdom, its visa rules are the same as for Britain. For information on these policies, see the Great Britain chapter.
MONEY
Tipping and Bargaining
Some restaurants in Ireland figure a service charge into the bill; some even calculate it into the cost of the dishes themselves. The menu often indicates whether or not service is included. If gratuity is not included, consider leaving 10-15%, depending upon the quality of the service. Tipping is not necessary for most other services, such as taxis and concierge assistance, especially in rural areas. In most cases, people are usually happy if you simply round up the bill to the nearest euro. But if a driver is particularly courteous and helpful, consider tipping 5-10%. Hairdressers, at least for women, are typically tipped 10% of the bill. Never tip in pubs—it’s considered condescending. In general, do not tip bartenders, though some bartenders at hip urban bars may expect a tip; watch and learn from other customers.
Taxes
The Republic of Ireland has a 23% value added tax (VAT), although some goods are subject to a lower rate of 13%. Northern Ireland edges its southern neighbor with the UK VAT rate of 20%. The prices stated in Let’s Go include VAT unless otherwise noted. Given the Irish government’s serious cashflow problems, don’t be surprised if the rates increase even more.
SAFETY AND HEALTH
Although Ireland has a long history of serious sectarian violence and terrorism, the situation has improved considerably in the last 15 years. It is still probably best to avoid incendiary discussions with strong opinions on the Northern Ireland question or by stating your undying love for Oliver Cromwell (this will not go down well). Always be aware of your surroundings and don’t assume that the Troubles are completely over: there are still many fringe groups who are prepared to commit acts of terrorism.
STUDY
• DUBLIN ENGINEERING PROGRAM: If your idea of fun is long nights at the lab and getting cozy with technology, spend your fall semester taking three technical and engineering courses at Dublin City University and one elective on Irish art or literature. (www.bu.edu/abroad/programs/dublin-engineering-program/, www.dcu.ie)
• NATIONAL UNIVERSITY OF IRELAND, GALWAY: Immerse yourself in the Irish higher education system with a potpourri of course selections from the internationally renowned faculties of Arts, Law, Business, Engineering, Medicine, and Science—NUIG is ranked in the top 3% of schools on a global scale. The school is best known for its Marine Science, Irish Literature, Women’s St. ies, Classical Civilizations, and Information Technology departments. (353 91 524411 www.nuigalway.ie/international-students/)
• DUBLIN CITY UNIVERSITY INTERNSHIP PROGRAM: At DCU, your Irish history- and culture-focused coursework is paired with a full-time, four days per week professional work experience in the Dublin area. (617-353-9888, www.bu.edu/abroad/programs/dublin-internship-program, www.dcu.ie)
• UNIVERSITY COLLEGE CORK: Choose from among 40 degree courses across the college of Arts, Celtic St. ies and Social Sciences, the College of Business and Law, the College of Science, Engineering and Food Science, and the College of Medicine and Health. (353 (0)21 490 3000, www.ucc.ie/en/international)
• TRINITY COLLEGE DUBLIN: As an international student, you’ll have access to over 400. Trinity College Dublin has a reputation for approachable lecturers and small group work in undergraduate tutorials and seminars. (353 1 896 3150 www.tcd.ie/international)
VOLUNTEER
The National Volunteer Development Agency (www.volunteer.ie) is an excellent database.
• BALLYTOBIN CAMPHILL COMMUNITIES: Ballytobin is a therapeutic community for 75 children and adults with multiple disabilities. Some volunteers work on the farm and in the garden, providing the community with fresh organic vegetables, milk, and meat, while others care and support disabled children or adults, assisting in the classroom or in craft workshops. All community members live together in an extended family home and partake in cooking, cleaning, and other chores. (01-2694406 www.camphill.ie/ballytobin)
• DUBLIN CONSERVATION VOLUNTEERS: Do you love woodland management, laying hedges, maintaining grasslands, creating paths, erecting fences, and cleaning up public parks? Try your green thumb and plant a tree every Saturday for four hours in different locations around the Dublin area. Volunteers are welcome for one-time or multiple-week commitments. (087 1214 641 www.conservationvolunteers.ie)
• ST. S SCHOOL COMPLETION PROGRAMME: Connect with your inner science nerd by helping to tutor vulnerable young populations in Junior Cert level science on Wednesday afternoons. Some teaching experience is required. (061-609 603 www.stepsscp.com)
• LGBT HELPLINE: In 2012, the lesbian, gay, bisexual, and transgender helpline received 10,000 calls but could only manage less than a quarter of them due to a lack of volunteers available to answer the phone. Volunteers take an initial six-week training course and are expected to contribute four hours a week. Listening and empathy skills are key. (1890 929 539 www.lgbt.ie)
WORK
Search engines like jobs.goabroad.com, www.overseasjobs.com, jobsinireland.org, and www.pickingjobs.com/ireland are a good place to start.
• ESL OPPORTUNITIES: ESL Opportunities is partnered with the Irish College of English and Swan Training Institute, so you’ll have some hands-on teaching experience before your first day on the job. (353 1 8453744 www.eslopportunities.com)
• THE ACCREDITATION AND CO-ORDINATION OF ENGLISH LANGUAGE SERVICES (ACELS): ACELS compiles a list of recognized English Language Training (ELT) schools and organizations. Once you are TEFL certified, ACELS can put you in touch with member schools for that oh-so-dreamy ESL teaching job. (01 9058185 www.acels.ie)
• MARKETING ENGLISH IN IRELAND (MEI): MEI is an association of 55 English language schools, including large, medium, and small schools that serve almost 200,000 students from around the world each year. If you’re already TEFL certified, MEI can help place you in an institution. MEI also offers TEFL courses that are accredited by the Department of Education. (353 1 6180910/11 www.mei.ie)
• SPORTS DATA AG: Check out this job with Sports Data AG, a worldwide information supplier for sports related data based in Switzerland. The freelance job in Ireland involves attending local sports events to gather stats for real time publishing. (41 71 517 72 00 www.sportsdata.ag)
The Republic of Ireland and Northern Ireland both regulate the possession of recreational drugs, with penalties ranging from a warning to lengthy prison sentences. Possession of marijuana results in a fine, though repeated offenses can result in prosecution. Harder substances are treated with severity. If you carry prescription drugs with you, have a copy of the prescription and a note from a doctor readily accessible at country borders. The drinking age, 18 in both the Republic of Ireland and Northern Ireland, is more strictly enforced in urban areas. While there is no national legislation prohibiting drinking in public, local authorities may pass by-laws enforcing such a policy. Drinking is banned in many public places in Northern Ireland. Contact the local authority for more information.
