For the home of the papacy, Italy certainly knows how to do sensual pleasures right: stylish Vespas, intoxicating vino, vibrant piazze, and crackling pizzas covered in garden-fresh produce will light up your eyes, ears, nose, and taste buds as you make your way across the Mediterranean’s favorite boot. In a country where la dolce far niente (“the sweetness of doing nothing”) is a national pastime, you will nonetheless find yourself with a wealth of opportunities to pursue la dolce vita. And as a student traveler, you are uniquely situated to experience Italia in all its ridiculousness and sublimity. Striking out on your own, likely on a budget, you will open yourself up to what someone who stays in the swankiest hotels and eats at all the five-star restaurants will miss: making connections with the people and the way of life in Italy’s many storied cities and towns. Wander your way along the canals in Venice and marvel at the famed mosaics of Ravenna. Try to dodge the sharp glances of the fashionistas in Milan and discover the moving stories of the flood-ravaged Ligurian Coast as you make your way along the Cinque Terre. Eat pizza in Naples, climb the Duomo inFlorence, and explore ruins in Sicily. With its Renaissance art, Roman grandeur, and religious relics, Italy presents curious and intrepid travelers with an experience that is at once cultural, historical, and truly divine.
greatest hits
• ANCIENT ANTIQUES. The relics of ancient Rome pop up all over the place. Rome is obviously the place to start, but even cities like Verona and Milan share this fascinating history.
• WHERE REBIRTH WAS BORN. Thanks to the Renaissance, there’s more art in Italy than even a Medici can handle. Get the best possible primer at the king of Italian museums: Florence’s Uffizi.
• GIVE THE MAINLAND THE BOOT. Once you’ve made it down the Mediterranean coast, hop on a ferry to see a whole other side of Italy in Sicily, including the Byzantine-influenced Palermo and the ruins of Syracuse.
Italy may be famous for its antiquities (monuments, Renaissance art, the Roman Forum, Pope Benedict XVI), but this doesn’t mean that young people haven’t claimed the past as their own. Nowhere is this truer than in Rome, which has many of Italy’s most ancient attractions and yet also an incredible amount of vitality. Sapienza University has no fewer than 147,000 students, so there’s plenty of young people around to round out a great nightlife scene in Termini, Centro Storico, and Testaccio.
Though Rome may be the biggest beast, there are dozens of cities lining up to rival its youthful culture. Milan is renowned for uptight fashion and business dealings, but it also has a looser and more youth-oriented scene around the Navigli district. Bologna is home to the Western World’s oldest university, and, with more than 100,000 students packed into a city with a population a tenth of Rome’s, the students are pretty much taking over. Pisa may be famous for a leaning tower, but with three universities and an awful lot more bars, the student scene stands up much better than its buildings. Even in cities with a less obvious student scene, like Venice and Florence, there are still plenty of 20-somethings to be sought out if you make the effort—try Dorsoduro in the former and Santa Croce in the latter to find them. Wherever you are in Italy, don’t just think that museums and churches are all there is for you to see. Hit up an aperitivo bar or take a pitcher out to a piazza and drink like the locals. That’s just as much a part of today’s Italian culture as any amphitheater or crumbling chapel roof.
Rome. The city that ruled an empire. A center for the Renaissance, the papacy, and the birthplace of Western civilization. A gorgeous, sprawling metropolis that will veni vidi vici your heart with its art, history, Vespas, and gelato. Crazy amounts of gelato. So bid farewell to the wine-dark sea and gather up those household gods. No need to wait for oracles—the Eternal City calls.
People come to this city for many reasons. For fresh mozzarella and tomato pizza, breathtaking views of the Sistine Chapel, the chance to romp by the Colosseum at 3am, or all of the above, all on the same day (#wheninrome). It’s where you can wander down streets too tiny to be mapped, eat more pasta than you’ll ever admit, admire the art of Bernini by day and the art of twerkology by night, and dodge Vespas with two slices of pizza and a bottle of wine in hand. It’s a place that’s easy to fall in love with, although it’s not an easy city to conquer (the Carthaginians tried and failed). But fortune favors the brave, so sail up the Tiber. Let’s leave those elephants at home, semper ubi sub ubi, and fasten up those togas—let’s go to Rome.
ORIENTATION
Rome is easily navigable on foot—every time you think you’re lost, another monument pops up and you’re back on track. The best way to think of Rome is as a body: a few major arteries (some with significant blockage problems) will take you from region to region, while countless capillaries branch off into compact neighborhoods. P. Venezia is not really the heart of Rome, but it’s where the city’s main thoroughfares convene. V. Cavour and V. Nazionale are the legs leading down to Rome’s foot—Termini, the city’s main transportation hub. The arm of the V. dei Fori Imperiali takes you back in time, passing the Roman Forum and the Colosseum. The other arm, the V. del Corso, heads into the very commercial present, as it’s filled with shops and the crowds that go with them. This then becomes the V. Flaminia, which navigates around the Villa Borghese. Rome’s “neck” is the Centro Storico, a mass of winding streets where navigation by map is much more difficult than navigation by monument. The C. Vittorio Emanuele II is a useful throughway which leads across the Tiber River into Rome’s slightly less crazy head, home to Trastevere and not-technically-part-of-Rome-but-we’re-still-including-it-for-obvious-reasonsVatican City.
Ancient City
With one of the highest cameras-to-square-inches-of-sidewalk ratios in Rome, the Ancient City doesn’t exactly feel “ancient” anymore. The Via dei Fori Imperiali is the main thoroughfare for ruin-seekers, passing the Colosseum and Roman Forum before reaching Piazza Venezia, where the road ends with the classical pastiche that is the Vittorio Emanuele II Monument. Around the P. Venezia, even more Roman ruins await at Via del Teatro di Marcello, although these are less famous (but only moderately less impressive). Via Cavour leads from the Roman Forum to the pleasant Monti area and Esquiline Hill, full of narrow, picturesque streets that aren’t clogged with tourist traps.
Centro Storico
To the traveler who has paid one too many euro after waiting in one too many 4hr. lines, the Centro Storico offers a reprieve: nearly all the churches, monuments, and piazze you’ll find here are free. With most of the main attractions clustered on either side of Corso Vittorio Emanuele II, this tangled web of streets is manageable in size, though not the easiest to navigate. Expect to get lost as vie suddenly split into numerous vicoli, so use C. Vittorio Emanuele II as a departure point and the vibrant urban living rooms of Campo dei Fiori and Piazza Navona as your major landmarks.
Piazza di Spagna
Nestled between the Tiber and the grounds of the Villa Borghese, the area around the P. di Spagna is Rome’s answer to Fifth Avenue, the Champs-Élysées, and the West End. From the Piazza del Popolo, the neighborhood branches off into three main roads: the quieter Via della Ripetta, the overbearing Via del Corso, and the Via del Babuino. The last of these leads to the Spanish Steps. For the fashion-obsessed, Via dei Condotti is home to the shops of some of the most exclusive Italian designers. Sightseers on a budget will not be disappointed, either, as many landmarks (like the Trevi Fountain) are free to the public. To avoid the capitalist onslaught, take a stroll on the elevated Viale di Trinita dei Monti, which offers the best view of P. di Spagna and its artistic marvels.
Jewish Ghetto
Just across from Trastevere is the small area known as the Jewish Ghetto, the first of its kind in Western Europe. Bordering the Lungotevere dei Cenci is the impressive Great Synagogue, the spiritual and physical center of the area. It’s a small, residential neighborhood that is renowned for delicious kosher food, especially carciofi alla giudia (insanely delicious fried artichokes) which are found mainly in the restaurants of the Via del Portico d’Ottavia. Friday evenings and Saturdays are not, of course, the time to visit, as residents will be at home observing the Sabbath.
Vatican City
The people-to-square-foot ratio is significantly cockeyed in this part of the city: the madhouse of tourists in the Vatican contrasts sharply with the empty boulevards in the surrounding region of Prati. If the plastic souvenirs, bright flags, and English menus aren’t enough to indicate which neighborhood you’re in, the brick wall that physically separates Vatican City from Prati should give you a clue. On the Prati side, you’ll find surprisingly affordable hotels and casual trattorias scattered among modern, pastel residential buildings. For all this talk about crowds in Vatican City, as you make your way back toward the pope’s digs, the throng of people is more manageable than what you’ll find in Central Rome.
Trastevere is to Rome what Brooklyn is to New York: overlooked by tourists, loved by locals, and removed from the metropolitan center while still being in the thick of things. There aren’t any metro stops nearby, but you can play choose-your-own-adventure by crossing one of the three main bridges into different parts of town. The Ponte Fabricio and the Isola Tiberina open into the quieter, right side of the neighborhood where there are plenty of restaurants and laid-back bars. The Ponte Garibaldi leads into Piazza Giuseppe Gioachino Belli and the less-than-beautiful Viale Trastevere. Finally, the Ponte Sisto brings you right into the Piazza Trilussa and the heart of Trastevere’s extensive nightlife. While you probably won’t end up sleeping here, as there are few budget-friendly accommodations, the excellent bar and club scene and unpretentious, homegrown restaurants make this a good bet for evenings, while daytime strolls provide plenty of picturesque photo-ops.
Termini and San Lorenzo
Termini is the city’s transportation hub—and it’s got the blocks of hostels to prove it. Via Giovanni Giolitti, which runs alongside Termini, and the streets surrounding Piazza Indipendenza are lined with budget accommodations. With prime access to the metro, major bus lines, great nightlife (read: international student mania), and even a few sights of its own, no other part of Rome matches Termini’s convenience. Our only advice: try to arrive by daylight. With a backpack or an unwieldy suitcase and a long plane ride behind you, trekking through the maze of people and advertisements can provide not only a disheartening first impression of Rome but a somewhat dangerous one as well.
Northern Rome
Unlike the city center, Northern Rome offers visitors more contemporary sights and residential areas. Villas from the 17th and 18th centuries are scattered throughout the area, most notably in the expansive Villa Borghese and the more modest Villa Torlonia. Practically every piazza and museum features a sculptural or architectural work of the great Gian Lorenzo Bernini. If you’re hoping to find something even more recent, Rome’s modern and contemporary art museums are nearby. The Piazza del Popolo, originally an important entry point into the city, is now at the top of a shopping district and right next to the grounds of the Villa Borghese. To the east, the Porta Pia marks the beginning of the beautiful and primarily residential (or ambassadorial) Via Nomentana. Inexpensive food can be hard to come by, so take advantage of the many open spaces for picnics and leisurely strolls.
Testaccio and Ostiense
Located south of the Colosseum, Testaccio and Ostiense are left off most tourist itineraries and are literally off Rome’s central map. 
B toward Piramide leads to Piazzale Ostiense, from which radiate a number of large streets: Via Marmorata crosses the river into Trastevere, and Via Ostiense is the area’s main thoroughfare. Composed of newer, residential housing and paved streets, these uncongested neighborhoods let you put away the guidebook for an afternoon, but be sure to save energy for the pulsing clubs. They may have long lines and be far from the center of Rome, but they offer some of the best nightlife in the city. You might not come here with high expectations, but the culinary, cultural, and clubbing surprises are sure to charm you.
Just because it’s off the tourist map doesn’t mean Southern Rome isn’t worth at least a day of exploring. This stretch of the city is home to residential streets, enough churches to convert you to Catholicism, and yes, more ruins. The churches are along the Via Labicana and near the Piazza di San Giovanni in Laterano, so keep an eye out for towers, nuns, and priests to orient yourself. The Appian Way has enough sights to demand its own day-long visit and is marked at every bend in the road by ruined aqueducts, entrances to catacombs, and fragments of statues. Less touristed than central Rome, this area is a great place to view some amazing Christian monuments without waiting in Vatican-sized lines.
SIGHTS
Ancient City
COLOSSEUM
ANCIENT ROME
V. di San Gregorio, V. Cello Vibenna, and V. Nicolai Salvi
06 39 96 77 00
It’s the Colosseum. We don’t need to tell you to see it. In fact, you’ve probably already seen it everywhere from movies to postcards to that one time you were riding the night bus and saw it through a drunken haze and tried to convince the bus driver to stop. But as the largest amphitheater in the world and an architectural marvel, the Colosseum was originally used for public spectacles showcasing mock battles, Greek dramas, and, of course, gladiatorial combat. After you take hundreds of pictures with the gladiators outside, do as the Romans did and follow the swarming crowds inside. You’ll get a great view of the tourists on the other side of the complex, along with a spectacular look at the arches, arena, and passageways through which gladiators, emperors, and other ferocious beasts once passed. Afterward, head out to the sides to look at the Arch of Constantine and Roman Forum down below and to wave at your adoring fans before you head into the rotating museum exhibitions and gift shop. Tickets to the Colosseum are joint with the Palatine Hill and Roman Forum.
B: Colosseo or Termini, then bus #75. Tickets are purchased for entrance to the Colosseum, Palatine Hill, and Roman Forum; they allow 1 entrance per sight over the course of 2 days €12, EU students ages 18-24 €7.50, EU citizens under 18 or over 65 free. Guided tour €5. Audio tour €5.50. Cash only. Buy a ticket at the Roman Forum to avoid line 
Open daily 8:30am-1hr. before sunset.
ARCH OF CONSTANTINE
ANCIENT ROME, MONUMENT
V. San Gregorio, south of the Colosseum near the Palatine Hill entrance
It’s an arch! And it commemorates Constantine! Bet you didn’t see that coming. But it’s also drop-dead gorgeous and will turn heads nonetheless. As big as Constantine’s ego and elaborately decorated with photoshopped versions of what the emperor looked like, this triumphal arch was built in honor of the Stan’s victory over Maxentius at the Battle of the Milvian Bridge. What makes this striking for the art historian in you, though, is the extensive reuse of old material and reliefs taken from other monuments. Copyright is so this century.
B: Colosseo or Termini, then bus #75. Walk down V. San Gregorio from the Colosseum. Free.
ROMAN FORUM
ANCIENT ROME
The heart of Ancient Rome. The center of all public life. A place once alive with markets, celebrations, religious ceremonies, and Ciceronian orations. Even if you’re a Vestal Virgin, you should be getting a historical boner. Though not quite the social and political center that it once was, the Roman Forum now opens up its rather rocky paths to visitors who can stumble around through the broken-down ruins and call out “O tempora! O mores!” because sometimes after five years of Latin, that’s really all you remember. Start your trek into this dusty plot of land, and you’ll soon come across the Arch of Titus. Check out the relief on the interior of rowdy Romans carrying off a menorah from the Temple of Jerusalem. Farther ahead is the round Tempio di Romolo, with its Christian artwork right next to the imposingly beautiful columns of the Tempio di Antonino and Faustina. One of the prettiest and more intact sites at the Roman Forum is the House of the Vestal Virgins, which has been left untouched by even time. Further along is the Curia, the austere meeting place for the Roman Senate, right next to the elaborately decorated Arch of Septimus Severus, marking the foot of the Capitoline Hill. Look up and you’ll see the enormous columns that are the only remains of what was once the enormous Temple of Saturn.
B: Colosseo or Termini, then bus #75. Enter at V. San Gregorio (near the Arch of Constantine), V. dei Fori Imperiali (halfway between Trajan’s column and the Colosseum), or directly opposite the Colosseum. The entrance to the Forum is joint with the Palatine Hill. Tickets are purchased for entrance to the Colosseum, Palatine Hill, and Roman Forum; they allow 1 entrance per sight over the course of 2 days. €12, EU students ages 18-2 €7.50, EU citizens under 18 or over 65 free. Audio tour €5, combined with Palatine Hill €7; available in English. Cash only. Open daily 8:30am-1hr. before sunset.
ANCIENT ROME
You should always arrive fashionably late to Flavian’s Palace for dinner. A couple thousand years late? Still counts. The Palatine Hill (from which we derive the word “palace”) is a lovely glimpse into the lifestyles of the rich and famous in Rome, if you take the time difference into consideration. From the Palatine Hill, you can also look out over the Circus Maximus, once home to chariot races and now a large field with mosquitoes and concerts in the summer. By the ruins of the palaces is the Palatine Museum, housing some household artifacts, and farther up are the Faranese Gardens, filled with beautiful roses and nurseries for exotic plants. From such great heights, you’ll also get a lovely panorama of the Roman Forum, Colosseum, and Capitoline Hill, and you’ll understand luxurious living at its finest. Afterward, walk down past the Nymphaeumm of the Rain, a cave with running water (because the natural world is the only palace you need).
B: Colosseo or Termini, then bus #75. Enter at V. San Gregorio (near the Arch of Constantine), V. dei Fori Imperiali (halfway between Trajan’s column and the Colosseum), or directly opposite the Colosseum. Tickets are purchased for entrance to the Colosseum, Palatine Hill, and Roman Forum; they allow 1 entrance per sight over the course of 2 days. €12, EU students ages 18-24 €7.50, EU citizens under 18 or over 65 free. Audio tour €5, combined with the Forum €7; available in English. Cash only. Open daily 8:30am-1hr. before sunset. Palatine Museum open daily 8am-4pm; 30 people per floor, 20min. at a time.
CAPITOLINE HILL
PIAZZA, MUSEUM
One of the seven hills of Rome, the Capitoline (Campidoglio in Italian) is your go-to hill when you want to be greeted by gorgeous naked men. But like all the other gorgeous men you’ve met, they’ll be cold as marble to your advances. Nevertheless, this hill is full of Renaissance palaces surrounding the beautiful Piazza di Campidoglio, designed by Michelangelo himself. From the outside, the famous equestrian statue of Marcus Aurelius steals the show, but take a look inside the Capitoline Museums for the oldest and perhaps most impressive public collections of ancient art in the world. Everything from the Dying Gaul to the famous Capitoline Wolf are housed in this beautiful museum, with its elaborately frescoed walls and modern touches like mini informational movies and interactive exhibits. Afterwards, step outside for a beautiful vista over the Roman Forum, Colosseum, and Fori Imperiali (if you time it well, you can catch them at sunset) while you photobomb all the wedding photos being taken here.
From V. dei Fori Imperiali, veer left toward the Vittorio Emanuele II Monument. Turn onto V. Teatro Marcello and head uphill. Capitoline Museum €12, EU students ages 18-25 €10, EU citizens under 18 or over 65 free; combined ticket with Centrale Montemartini €14, EU students 18-25 €12. Audio tour €5; available in English. Capitoline Museums open Tu-Su 9am-8pm. Last entry 7pm.
In terms of convenience, residential feel, and cost, Trastevere, Testaccio and Ostiense, and San Giovanni (south of Termini) are ideal places to find your home away from home. Termini is best for last-minute and conveniently located accommodations, especially for travelers arriving by train. Below are some of the best beds in Rome, and more are available on www.letsgo.com.
M&J PLACE HOSTEL
HOSTEL $$
V. Solferino 9
06 44 62 802
Colorful walls, lively social spaces, and cheap prices? We had you at colorful walls. If you can score a bed in this hostel, take it. Along with the daily organized outings to museums or flea markets and the bar next door, you too can live out all those dreams of being in Rome while surrounded by fellow young travelers.
Termini. Walk down V. Marsala away from the station and turn right onto V. Solferino. Wi-F €2 per hr., €5 per 4hr. Breakfast included in some packages, otherwise €3. Lockers included. Free luggage storage until 9pm. Female-only dorms available. High-season dorms €25-38; low-season dorms €12-20; singles €75; doubles €80-100; triples €135; quads €160. Cash only. Reception 24hr.
ALESSANDRO PALACE
HOSTEL $$
V. Vicenza 42
06 44 61 958
You know what frescoes and a mini Augustus statue at reception mean? Hardcore partying. At night, the frequent free pizza parties, happy hour specials, and rowdy late-night drinkers will make sure that this isn’t one of those hostels you only come back to when you’re ready to hit the hay.
Termini. Walk up V. Marsala and turn right onto V. Vicenza. Free Wi-Fi up to 1hr. €1 per hr. thereafter. Breakfast included. Free luggage storage before 3pm. Reserve 1 week in advance in high season. Free pizza daily Apr-Jul 8:30pm. Dorms €19-45; doubles €60-130, with bath €70-130; triples €78-147/85-147. Reception 24hr.
LA CONTRORA HOSTEL
HOSTEL $$
V. Umbria 7
06 98 93 73 66
La Controra is the IKEA of hostels. Most of the clean, catalogue-looking dorms have three or four weary travelers. With only 14 beds overall, you’ll be no stranger to your fellow hostel dwellers, whether you’re cooking together or sitting in that look-how-much-fun-rooms-are pose that every Pottery Barn model knows how to rock.
A: Barberini. Walk down V. di Santa Nicola da Tolentino and then take a left onto V. Umbria. The hostel is on the right; buzz for entry. Free Wi-Fi. Breakfast included. Kitchen. A/C. Key deposit €10. Lockers available, but bring your own lock. During high season, make reservations about 1 week in advance. Dorms €30-40. Reception open 8am-midnight.
COLORS
HOTEL, HOSTEL $
V. Boezio 31
06 68 80 65 05
Fresh, new, clean, and yes, colorful. The free Wi-Fi and air conditioning will make you never want to leave, even though you’re blocks away from St. Peter’s Square. The staff is very helpful and friendly, and the kind (but less rowdy) travelers who stay here only make this place even brighter.
A: Ottaviano. Walk down V. Ottaviano and turn left onto V. Cola di Rienzo, then right onto V. Terenzio. Colors is at the intersection with V. Boezio. Breakfast included in hotel €7 in dorm. Dorms €20-30; singles €40-70, with bath €50-80; doubles €52-100; triples €70-100. Cash preferred. Reception 24hr.
ANCIENT ROME
V. dei Fori Imperiali
06 67 97 702
Rome is one of those places where even walking down a street counts as a site. And as you walk down V. dei Fori Imperiali, you’ll see why. With the Colosseum at one end and the Vittorio Emanuele II Monument at the other, a casual stroll down this road will give you a chance to see the Imperial Fora. Once four bustling business districts, this site is now packed with broken down columns and walls. The most famous fora is the Fora of Trajan with the even more famous Trajan Column. A beautiful, continuous frieze decorates this column, which commemorates Trajan’s victories in the Dacian Wars on a 98ft.-long shaft. Definitely not compensating for anything. But if you think your imaginary girlfriend’s face is beautiful when lit by the setting sun, wait until you see the Fori Imperiali. As everything turns golden-orange in the late evening, get some overpriced gelato from the street vendors and soak in some of the beauty while you walk (maybe it will transfer).
From the Colosseum, walk down V. dei Fori Imperiali. Free. Exhibition and info center open daily 9:30am-6:30pm
THE VELABRUM
ANCIENT ROME
The Velabrum knows all about getting low. Located in an ex-swamp that was the spot where Romulus and Remus’s basket was saved, this low-lying area was extremely sacred to the ancient Romans. So they naturally built a giant sewer (the Cloaca Maxima) through it. But now, this de-swamped region is home to the ruins of temples, arches, and random piles of stones that let your imagination run wild. The main sight is the Chiesa di Santa Maria in Cosmedin, which holds the oh-so-famous Bocca della Verità. According to legend or, you know, Roman Holiday, anyone who places their hand in the stone mouth will have it bitten off if they are a liar. So go ahead and test it out if you’re feeling brave. Or just man up and tell us where you really were last night.
From the Circo Massimo, walk down V. dei Cerchi until you reach P. di Sant’Anastasia. The Velabrum and its sights are in the flat region at the base of the hill. Suggested donation for picture €0.50. Church open daily 9:30am-5:50pm.
CHIESA DI SAN PIETRO INVINCOLI
CHURCH
P. di San Pietro in Vincoli, 4A
06 97 84 49 52
Skeletons and chains? Hardcore. St. Peter is famous for being a rock(star) in Christianity, and this church is a testament to that. The sculptures of skeletons are about as bare-boned as the walls, but if this wordplay isn’t convincing enough, check out this church to see Michelangelo’s famous statue of Moses—complete with horns (since someone somewhere botched up a Latin translation of the Bible—clearly he was not AP Vergil material). Along with attracting Michelangelo groupies, this church also houses the very chains that bound St. Peter himself in Jerusalem.
From V. Cavour, turn onto V. di San Francisco di Paola and walk up the stairs to the piazza in front of the church. Modest dress required. Free. Open daily 8am-12:30pm and 3-6pm.
Centro Storico
PANTHEON
ANCIENT ROME
P. della Rotunda
06 68 30 02 30
One does not simply go to Rome and not see the Pantheon. One of the most beautiful and well-preserved buildings from Ancient Rome, this temple was originally built during the reign of Augustus as a temple for all the gods (and we mean all the gods) but has since been converted to a Catholic church (one god, all the gods—close enough). An architectural marvel in its own right, this temple is the largest unsupported structure of its kind, much like your ego. Snap some pictures and remain in silence (a priest will shush you) while you walk around this circular building and pass by the tombs of royalty and the crowds of tourists who’ve all come in because, well, maybe they need to know the time.
From P. Navona, follow the signs for the Pantheon toward V. della Dogana Vecchia. Free. Audio tou €5, students €3.50. Open M-Sa 8:30am-7:30pm, Su 9am-6pm.
PIAZZA NAVONA
PIAZZA
Surrounded by V. di Santa Maria dell’Anima and C. del Rinascimento
Originally a stadium built by Domitian in 86 CE, the only gladiatorial action Piazza Navona sees now are skirmishes between knock-off bag vendors and Roman authorities. But when you’re done buying watches from that man in the coat, take a look at how beautiful the piazza actually is. With its large open expanse and Bernini’s magnificent Fontana dei Quattro Fiumi depicting four enormous river gods in the center, you’ll have no shortage of photo opportunities for your Facebook album. A favorite of tourists and street performers alike, you can stumble upon anything from an old guy breaking down to dubstep to a series of men painted as sculptures who only move when you throw money at them (which sounds like us on a lazy weekend). Though the cafes and restaurants in this area are more expensive, savor the moment and buy a beer to drink while sitting (and photobombing) in Rome’s most famous piazza.
Entrances at Palazzo Braschi, V. Agonale, V. di Sant’Agnese di Agone, and Corsia Agonale.
CHIESA DI SAN LUIGI DEI FRANCESI
CHURCH
P. San Luigi dei Francesi 5
06 68 82 71
You might walk right by this church a few times, since it’s rather unimpressive from the outside. But like your mother said: you can’t change that face, so it’s your inner beauty that counts. Thus, Chiesa di San Luigi dei Francesi hides a beautiful butterfly within (that butterfly being the spirit of Christ). With marble walls, gold decor, and three of Caravaggio’s most famous pieces—The Calling of Saint Matthew, Saint Matthew and the Angel, and The Crucifixion—inside, this church sheds its Catholic exterior and goes all out with pride inside. But no one said enlightenment was free. Even Caravaggio’s halos come at a cost, so deposit (aka, wait for someone else to deposit) €1 to see the paintings lit up by their heavenly electric glow. And always remember that this place is still a church first, so watch the dress code and expect some rather counterproductive shouts of “Silenzio!” from the mike when everyone’s prayers get too rowdy.
From P. Navona, exit onto Corsia Agonale, turn left onto C. del Rinascimento and right onto V. Santa Giovanna d’Arco. Free. Open M-W 10am-12:30pm and 4-7pm, Th 10am-12:30pm, F-Su 10am-12:30pm and 4-7pm.
VITTORIO EMANUELE II MONUMENT
MONUMENT, MUSEUM
P. Venezia, museum 06 67 93 526
06 67 80 664
Nicknamed the “Wedding Cake” (no, not because you can eat it), the Vittorio Emanuele II Monument, with its layers of columny goodness, is an inescapable sight from most heights in Rome. It’s built on the ground left when Mussolini razed many medieval and Renaissance neighborhoods (including Michelangelo’s house), and the surrounding piazza now stands as an enormous rotary for cars, scooters, and buses that have all decided to kill you today. What takes (or is) the cake, though, is the enormous monument to Italian unification and national pride centered around the equestrian statue of Vittorio Emanuele II, whose mustache is—trivia time—over 1m long (definitely not compensating for anything). Get some great shots of the building from Piazza Venezia or even from a couple blocks away. If you manage to climb up all the steps of this monument, you’ll be rewarded with another lovely view, including Trajan’s Column and a chance to enter the dimly lit Museo Nazionale Emigrazione Italiana and the Museo del Risorgimento (where you’ll finally be able to see exhibits such as “Garibaldi Calzoni’s jeans in which he landed at Marsala”). But if you’re not such a revolution nerd, just stay outside and take a moment to enjoy being so high. Physically, that is.
In P. Venezia. Free. Monument open M-Th 9:30am-6:30pm, F-Su 9:30am-7:30pm. Museum open daily 9:30am-6:30pm.
Piazza di Spagna
FONTANA DI TREVI
FOUNTAIN
Beyond P. dell’Accademia di San Luca
The only time to really see Trevi Fountain is at 4am, when the moonlight hits the water just right and you can fawn over its majesty while ignoring the guy reading a newspaper next to you. Because yes, it’s always crowded. Full of tourists, shop vendors, or policemen making sure you don’t pull a La Dolce Vita and hop in, Trevi is one of those iconic Roman places you have to see. Nicola Salvi’s beautiful fountain cut from rock and stone depicts an enormous Neptune surrounded by the goddesses of abundance and good health, as well as two brawny horsemen chilling out just because. Do as the Roman tourists do and save up on those one euro cent coins to toss in here: one ensures a prompt return to Rome, two will bring you love in the Eternal City, and three will bring about your wedding.
A: Barberini. Proceed down V. del Tritone and turn left onto V. Stamperia.
PIAZZA DI SPAGNA AND THE SPANISH STEPS
MONUMENT, PIAZZA
People from all over the world come to shout an hola to the Spanish Steps. Take that, escalators. Built in 1723 to connect P. di Spagna to the heavens via 135 steps that lead up to the Trinità dei Monti church, these steps have been a favorite of internationals for hundreds of years, with the Italians (who designed it), the British (who occupied it), the French (who financed it), and the Spanish (who had an embassy here and gave it a name—solid effort) all pitching in. Nowadays, these steps are mainly used for, well, going up and down and for the crowds of tourists who come to eat gelato during the day and the rowdy young folk who come to drink here at night. The best view is from the church itself, where you’ll get a vista over the stairs, tourists, gelato, and the piazza, with Bernini the Elder’s Fontana della Barcaccia, or the Fountain of the Ugly Boat, in clear view.
A: Spagna.
MUSEO DELL’ARA PACIS
MUSEUM
At intersection of Lungotevere in Augusta and P. Porto di Ripetta
It’s a museum housing one piece. But it’s one gorgeous and important piece, so you should go see it. The Ara Pacis, an altar to the goddess Pax, was built to commemorate Augustus’s military conquests throughout Spain and Gaul (and peace, too). Visitors are allowed to walk in to get a true sense of its size and view the beautiful sculptural friezes depicting the Senate and a goddess who no one really recognizes anymore. Some models (not the sexy kind) and informational panels surround the Ara Pacis, but the next big attraction is the building itself. A sleek white and wood-paneled example of modern architecture, this building has seen its fair share of controversy considering the very classical artwork it keeps. But sometimes the past simply must coexist with the present.
A: Spagna. Take V. del Carrozze toward V. del Corso and proceed into P. Augusto Imperiale €6.50, EU students 18-25 €4.50, EU citizens under 18 and over 65 free. Audio tour in English €3.50. Open Tu-Su 9am-7pm. Last entry 6pm.
Jewish Ghetto
THE GREAT SYNAGOGUE
SYNAGOGUE
Corner of Lungotevere dei Cenci and V. del Tempio
You can’t not like a building with a rainbow ceiling. And as the oldest and largest in Rome, this synagogue, much like your Frosted Flakes, is grrrreat. Built in 1904 after all the others were demolished, the Great Synagogue might be a baby compared to other Roman buildings, but it exists in one of the oldest continuous Jewish communities in the world (around since 161 BCE). Enormous and beautifully decorated with starry skies, palm trees, and furnishings from the older Cinque Scole (Five Synagogues) of the ghetto period, this synagogue is a breathtaking place to visit, whether you’re coming in for one of the three daily prayer services or taking advantage of the guided tour.
At the corner of Lungotevere dei Cenciand V. del Tempio. Open for services or with a tour from the Museo Ebraico. Free.
MUSEO EBRAICO
MUSEUM
Corner of V. del Portico d’Ottavia and V. Catalana
06 68 40 06 61
Our two-sentence Jewish Ghetto introduction not good enough for you? Well if you want to know more, head to the Museo Ebraico, which will drop some learning on your ass. After walking around the entire building to find the entrance, take a look inside and get a general overview of Jewish culture and traditions, along with specific information on the ghetto you are about to adventure time into. With everything from tapestries and coins to crowns and a reconstruction of a Jewish kitchen during Shabbat, this small museum fits in a lot.
From Ponte Garibaldi, turn right onto Lungotevere de Cenci and take a left onto V. del Portico d’Ottavia to reach the museum entrance €10, over 65 €7.50, EU students €4, under 10 and the disabled free. Free guided tours of the Great Synagogue and the Spanish Synagogue available in English 15min. past every hr. Open Jun 16-Sept 15 M-Th 10am-6:15pm, F 10am-3:15pm, Su 10am-6:15pm; Sept 16-Jun 15 M-Th 10am-4:15pm, F 9am-1:15pm, Su 10am-4:15pm.
Vatican City
PIAZZA DI SAN PIETRO
PIAZZA
At the end of V. della Concializione
06 69 88 16 62
Rome has a way of making you feel like a little girl (or boy or person of unspecified gender) in a big city. So walking into St. Peter’s Square is like getting a big, marble columned hug. Which is exactly what you need. Designed by Bernini, the long colonnaded arms and welcoming oval interior of this piazza are meant to be as welcoming as the arms of the Catholic Church, which is a lot of metaphors to take in. But the effect is stunning. Even when it’s filled with tourists snapping photos or waiting in long lines to the Basilica, the square lined with statues of saints and angels itself is a beautiful sight and is always happy to see you. Which kind of melts your stone cold heart.
Bus #23, 34, 40, 271, or 982 to P. Pia or bus #62 down V. della Conciliazione. Pilgrim Tourist Office, to the left of the basilica, has a multilingual staff, a gift shop, free bathrooms, a first-aid station, brochures, maps, currency exchange, and Vatican post boxes inside or nearby. Free. Piazza open 24hr. Tourist Office open M-Sa 8:30am-6:15pm.
ST. PETER’S BASILICA
CHURCH
At the end of V. della Concializione
06 69 88 16 62
With one of the most iconic domes in the world, Saint Peter’s Basilica is more than a building to be admired from the outside. Much like you, this basilica is rich—on the inside. After going through the airport-like security (hey, you’re in a different country after all), head inside and prepare to feel the power of Christ. And of enormous buildings. With cavernous ceilings, windows that barely light up the interior on cloudy days, and statues of saints that you literally have to look up to, everything in this church is massive. As soon as you walk in, turn to your right, and you’ll see the famous Pietà by Michelangelo, a beautiful and heartbreaking rendition of Mary and Jesus. Below is the twisted and ornately decorated baldacchino (canopy), with its whimsical sculpted bumblebees, marking the pope’s altar. To the right of the baldacchino is the statue of St. Peter himself with its lucky foot. Every June 29, this statue is dressed up in papal regalia from the Treasury for his feast day. Though most people come to this basilica as tourists, consider coming here for mass as well in front of Bernini’s Cathedra Petri, an area closed off to tourists. It’s a once in a lifetime opportunity, and you’ll be praying in the most famous church in the world. Make those prayers count… You asked for a date with a Swiss Guard, didn’t you?
Free guided tours in English leave from the Pilgrim Tourist Information Center. No shorts, mini skirts, or tank tops. Free. Basilica open daily Apr-Sept 7am-7pm; Oct-Mar 7am-6:30pm. Tours Tu 9:45am, Th-F 9:45am. Mass M-F 8:30, 10, 11am, noon, and 5pm; Su and holidays 9, 10:30, 11:30am, 12:15, 1, 4, and 5:45pm. Vespers daily 5pm.
SAINT PETER’S GRAVE (PRE-CONSTANTINIAN NECROPOLIS)
TOMB
Office left of the basilica, tombs below Scavi Office
06 69 88 53 18
Not everyone from Christianity is resurrectable. Hence the large necropolis here in Vatican City, most famously housing the bones of St. Peter himself. Though paying a visit down to the first pope’s tomb requires some 90 days preordination, you’ll be rewarded for your patience with a claustrophobic walk through the tombs and some explanations of the sight’s historical and religious significance. In 1939, the discovery of ancient ruins and a number of bones in the area was convincing enough for the once-infallible pope to claim that St. Peter’s remains did in fact exist under the original altar. Successive popes have also affirmed the presence of the holy remains, but many still believe that the bones were removed during the Saracen pillaging of Rome in 849 CE.
In the piazza. Instead of entering the Basilica, veer left and look for Swiss Guards dressed in stripes who will grant you access to the courtyard. The Scavi Office is on the courtyard’s right side. The necropolis can only be seen on a guided tour organized by the Scavi Office. Reservations must be made at least 1 day ahead but should be made as early as possible (as early as 90 days in advance). Pick up a reservation form at the office and hand deliver it, or email scavi@fsp.va with name, number of attendees, tour language, desired dates, and address and telephone number of where you are staying. Fully covered attire required. No backpacks or bulky items. €12. Scavi Office open M-Sa 9am-5pm. Tours last 1½hr.
VATICAN MUSEUMS
MUSEUM
Vle. Vaticano 97
06 69 88 33 32
And now, you patient and cultured world traveler, it’s time for the main event. Let’s go to the Sistine Chapel. It’s not difficult to find: just follow the mass of tourists leading you into what is the most monumental and beautiful part of the Vatican Museums. Gorgeous, awe-inspiring, life-changing. No photography or talking is allowed, so you get to admire the enormous Last Judgment covering the entire altar wall and the iconic Creation of Adam, one of nine panels depicting scenes from Genesis. There are some lovely tidbits to be discovered while you’re here. For example, Michelangelo had originally wanted full frontal nudity for the entire piece, but when Cardinal Carafa wouldn’t let him go the full monty, the artist covered everyone up (including Carafa himself, whose Speedo-zone is being chomped on by a giant snake). Spend as long as you can staring up at this masterpiece before you get crowd surfed out.
A: Ottaviano. Head down V. Ottaviano, turn right onto V. dei Bastioni di Michelangelo, and follow the wall until you see the end of the line for the museums. The entrance is on Vle. Vaticano €16, ages 6-18 and EU citizens 18-26 €8, under 6 free. Free last Su of each month and on World Tourism Day (September 27). Special viewings €4. Entrance with guided tour €32, ages 6-18 and EU citizens 18-26 €24. Audio tours with map €7. Open M-Sa 9am-6pm. Open last Su of each month 9am-2pm. Last entry 2hr. before close. Open Apr-Jul F 7-11pm for special viewing only; online reservation required. Check the website for hours as there may be additional closings.
MUSEO NAZIONALE DI CASTEL SANT’ANGELO
CASTLE, MUSEUM
Lungotevere Castello 50
06 68 19 111
A round brick structure spiting all the marble around it, this mausoleum for Hadrian and his family turned palace, castle, prison, and (finally) museum, stands on the banks of the Tiber, inspiring childish wonder in all with its dried up moats and electric torches. Once a fortress as impenetrable as your Catholic girlfriend, Castel Sant’Angelo now offers visitors a chance to walk up a winding ramp to the beautiful statue of the archangel Michael, then up a few more steps to take in a panorama of Rome from the terrace. No catapults here, only gorgeous views of St. Peter’s Dome and the statue-lined Ponte Sant’Angelo. And a full bar. So after you finish pre-gaming, check out the papal chambers, with their beautifully mosaic’d walls and collection of ancient statues, pottery, and busts below. Or, you know, just keep drinking. Forget the king: God save the Spritz.
Bus #23, 34, 40, 271, or 982 to P. Pia. The castle is at the end of V. della Conciliazione and at the intersection with Ponte Sant’Angelo €8.50, EU citizens ages 18-25 €6, EU citizens under 18 and over 65 free. Audio tour €4. Open Tu-Su 9am-7pm. Last entry 6:30pm.
Trastevere
Really, the main sight in Trastevere is, well, Trastevere. Down every vicolo, in every piazza, by every fountain, there’s a photo waiting to happen. No one will blame you if you fill numerous Facebook albums with the kind of rustic charm you thought only existed in movies.
SANTA MARIA IN TRASTEVERE
CHURCH
P. Santa Maria in Trastevere
06 58 14 802
Santa Maria in Trastevere is a sight for weary eyes lost in the winding streets of Rome. Just when you start giving up faith, the wide piazza opens up before you with a large fountain and the unmistakable figure of the Virgin Mary greeting you from the first church built exclusively for her in Rome. After parting the crowds of tourists and school groups Red Sea-style, make your way inside the church and admire the shimmering golden apse mosaic made in the Byzantine style (aka, before Christ had quite reached the third dimension) and realize that enlightened sheep are your new favorite art subjects. And when you’re done buying your own Pope Francis bookmark from the gift shop, take a moment to bask in the sunlight, perhaps with some gelato, on the steps of the fountain outside.
From Vle. Trastevere, turn right onto V. San Francesco a Ripa and walk 5min. Free. Open M-F 9am-5:30pm.
ISOLA TIBERINA
OPEN SPACE
Before Aeneas entered Italy, the Tiber did not know the feeling of ships. But now it can know the feeling of your toes! Isola Tiberina is a beautiful island in the middle of the river. Home to both the Fatebenefratelli Hospital and the Basilica San Bartolomeo, this is your one-stop shop for physical and spiritual healing. According to legend, the island is made of the silt-covered remains of Tarquin, an Etruscan ruler who caused the end of the monarchy after raping the beautiful Lucretia. But out of the ashes rises this peaceful island. After crossing the Ponto Fabrico (aka, the Ponte dei Quattro Capi, with its four stone heads of the architects who restored the bridge), the cobblestone plaza, cafes, and pharmacy won’t make you feel too far away from the city. But take the steps down to ground level, and you’ll get a beautiful (and often private) view of the mighty Tiber itself. Walk along the white stone paths lined with trees, take countless selfies, crash some romantic picnics, and see fishermen pull in their catch. Rome is a beautiful city, but if you need to get away and found a new empire or two, do as the Romans did and settle down by the Tiber.
From V. del Teatro Marcello, walk toward the water and onto Lungomare dei Pierleoni. Turn right to reach Ponte Fabricio. Free.
GIANICOLO HILL
PANORAMIC VIEW
It’s not one of the famous Seven Hills of Rome (sorry, you have to be on the other side of the Tiber for that), but Gianicolo Hill is still a worthwhile place to hike up. The winding V. Garibaldi will give you a workout, but just remember that there’s a gorgeous view of Rome when you reach the top. And gelato. (We all go through great lengths for gelato.) For teasers on your way up, you’ll get a chance to see the San Pietro in Montorio church and the Fonte Acqua Paola among the forested hill before you head into the Piazzale Giuseppe Garibaldi. The latter will present you with a beautiful vista of the city that will leave you breathless (and that’s not just from the rather steep climb). Head around the back of Garibaldi’s horse, and you’ll catch a glimpse of St. Peter’s dome, along with graffitied declarations of love (just like the true love between you and your gelato).
From P. San Egidio, turn left onto Vicolo del Cedro, climb the stairs, and take a left onto V. Garibaldi. Free.
Termini and San Lorenzo
BASILICA DI SANTA MARIA MAGGIORE
CHURCH
In P. dell’Esquilino
06 69 88 68 17
Located just minutes away from Termini Station, Basilica di Santa Maria Maggiore is an enormous basilica dedicated to everyone’s favorite virgin (no, not you). Legend has it that this basilica was built after Mary sent a miraculous snowfall in the middle of summer. So, obviously, a basilica had to be built in that spot. Despite the questionable history, it is a sight to see, with its elaborate gold ceiling, giant statues of saints, and beautiful frescoes covering every inch of the walls. There is a small museum attached with artifacts and artwork relating to the church’s history, but you can also spend your time sitting on the red plastic chairs pretending to be pews and enjoy the glory of Gold. And God, too.
Termini. Turn right onto V. Giolitti and walk down V. Cavour. Modest dress required. Basilica free. Museu €4, EU students and over 65 €2; Loggia €5/3. Audio tour (available in English) €4. Basilica open daily 7am-7pm. Museum open daily 9am-6pm.
CHIESA DI SANTA MARIA DEGLI ANGELI
CHURCH
P. della Repubblica
06 48 80 812
www.santamariadegliangeliroma.it
Don’t let the rough-hewn exterior ruin your expectations. Built in the ruins of the Baths of Diocletian, this chiesa designed by Michelangelo focuses more on inner beauty and Christ (or something artsy and historical like that) rather than a pretty façade. With high vaulted ceilings, faux-marble walls, and a meridian line running from the east transept to the altar that acts as a sundial, you gotta give Michelangelo some credit despite the less-than-impressive exterior. Make sure to check out the modern art at this church, such as a wiry angel figure and paintings with white swirls that are hidden saints. And after you’ve decided you just aren’t going to have a religious epiphany, head out to the sacristy to view the baths that are as broken down as your dreams of proper backpacker hygiene.
Termini. Walk into the P. dei Cinquecento and veer left toward V. Viminale. Sundial viewing schedule posted in church. Reserve sundial demonstrations 2 days in advance Jun 15-Sept 15. Call 06 48 70 749 for more information. Free. Open M-F 7am-6:30pm, Sa-Su 7am-7:30pm.
BATHS OF DIOCLETIAN
MUSEUM
V. Enrico de Nicola 79
06 39 96 77 00
www.archeoroma.beniculturali.it
Most misleading site name ever. There are no more baths here—just ruins. And some fountains. You brought your towel all the way here for nothing. But don’t worry. You can still see some naked Romans, but they’ll all be in statue form in the snazzy new museum that is built on the site. While you won’t find anything postcard worthy here, there are some lovely pottery fragments, proto-historic altars (aka slabs of rock), and a lovely walk around Michelangelo’s Cloister, so you can bathe in knowledge or beauty or something ethereal like that.
Termini. Walk into P. dei Cinquecento; enter on V. Volturno. Part of the Museo Nazionale Romano group, which also includes the Palazzo Massimo across the street, the Palazzo Altemps near the P. Navona, and the Crypta Balbi near the Largo Argentina. Buy 1 ticket for entrance to all 4 sights over 3 days €7, EU students €3.50, EU citizens under 18 and over 65 free. Open Tu-Su 9am-7:45pm. Last entry 6:45pm.
Northern Rome
Northern Rome is not only home to embassies (boring) but also boasts a ton of museums, parks, and historic piazze (exciting!). Set away from the ancient ruins, this area of the city is home to more recent monuments, at least in Roman terms: 17th-century villas, Bernini’s sculptural masterpieces, and modern and contemporary art all reside here.
GALLERIA BORGHESE
MUSEUM
Ple. del Museo Borghese 5
06 84 16 542
If you thought the walk in the Villa Borghese was breathtaking, wait until you get to the Galleria Borghese. Gorgeous, sumptuous, and extremely popular (be sure to book tickets in advance), this is not a place to miss in Rome. With every inch of this museum covered in paintings and frescoes by everyone in the index of your art history textbook, the Borghese is home to the works of Caravaggio, Titian, Rubens, and Raphael. But the showstopper here really is Bernini. Maybe you were a Play-Doh sculpture prodigy, but take a look at Bernini and see the limits of what man can do to marble. The Rape of Proserpina is a beautiful example of Bernini turning marble into flesh, as Pluto’s fingers leave indents on Proserpina’s body. Note, too, how poor Proserpina’s toes delicately curl up. Apollo and Daphne will also require a good 10min. to walk around as you see the latter change from soft flesh to hard tree bark, all done in marble as the tips of Daphne’s fingers and toes dynamically transform into leaves and roots. These two sculptures often attract large crowds, and since everyone enters the museum at once, start your visit at the top floor and work your way down to finish with these masterpieces.
Enter on V. Pinciana, near V. Isonzo. Proceed up Vle. dell’Uccelleria for about 5min. Reservations are required and tend to fill up quickly; call 06 32 810 or visit www.ticketeria.it €13, EU citizens ages 18-25 €8.50, EU citizens under 18 and over 65 €2. Tours €5. Open Tu-Su 9am-7pm. Last entry 6:30pm.
VILLA BORGHESE
GARDENS
Bordered by Vle. Trinita dei Monti and V. Porta Pinciana
06 32 16 564
A gorgeous, sprawling garden that defies the bustling city around it by offering shady walks, grassy hills, and benches to sit on and ponder life. Surrounded by busts of Romans (such Tacitus) and non-Romans (everybody loves Gogol) alike, the trails are a perfect getaway for you and your lover (or even you and your friend-zoned buddies). Bring along a picnic basket and lie out on the grass. Wander your way over to the carousels, where children ride on fake horses, or stumble upon the large tract of land where real horse shows happen. And when you’ve had your fill of greenery, head on over to the Galleria Borghese for artistic beauty to match the natural aesthetics of the park. Although this is the perfect place to bring along a date (peddlers will try to sell you roses), even if you’re all alone, there’s always Tacitus to get down and dirty (if you’re into talking about the Annales).
A: Spagna or Flaminio. There are multiple entrances to the park: Porta Pinciana, Ple. Flaminio, Vle. Belle Arti, V. Mercadante, and V. Pinciana. Gardens free. Bike renta €4 per hr., €15 per day. Visit www.ascolbike.com for more information. Gardens open daily Apr-Aug 7am-9pm; Sept 7am-8pm; Oct-Dec 7am-6pm; Jan-Feb 7am-6pm; Mar 7am-8pm.
CHURCH
V. Veneto 27
06 88 80 36 95
Walk into the Capuchin Crypt, and it will seem like a modern museum, complete with sleek wooden panels and life-sized TV screens with monks telling you to listen to that inner voice of Jesus. But walk down to the crypt, and you’ll be met with all sorts of legends about its creation, the most romantic perhaps being that the idea came from a sinner seeking refuge from his own tortured soul (or from a man mocking death because he was so assured of resurrection). And then you’ll enter the crypt itself. Made entirely out of human bones—from pelvises lining the wall to vertebrae in the lamps—the crypt is the perfect setting for a horror movie, especially given the skeletons still dressed in their monk’s robes bowing to crosses. Perhaps you’ll even hear the voice of Jesus (or maybe that’s just the monks talking again). Either way, the words before you enter, “What you are now, we were; what we are now, you will be” will haunt you even after you ascend back into the sunlight.
A: Barberini. Follow V. Veneto uphill; the church is on the right. To enter, take the stairs on the right. There is a strict dress code, so avoid low-cut or sleeveless shirts and short skirts or shorts; at the very least, bring something to cover up €1 min. donation. Open M-W 9am-noon and 3-6pm, F-Su 9am-noon and 3-6pm.
GALLERIA NAZIONALE D’ARTE MODERNA
MUSEUM
Vle. delle Belle Arti 131
06 32 29 81
www.gnam.arti.beniculturali.it
Housed inside a very Neoclassical building, this museum might leave you with doubts as to how modern it actually is, but once you walk inside and onto the cracked mirror floor, you’ll know where you are. Opening with some of Duchamp’s most famous ready mades, this museum follows the path of naturalism all the way to pop art and postmodernism. You’ll get everything from van Goghs, Klimts, and Mondrians to long, dark halls with buzzing electric exhibits. This is definitely a place to hit if you’re a modern art enthusiast or even if you just want to see Duchamp and his (in)famous Fountain, a testimony to the truly immortal and universal power of bathroom humor.
From Vle. del Giardino in the Villa Borghese, veer right and exit the park onto Vle. delle Belle Arti. The museum is on the right €12, EU students ages 18-25 €9.50, under 18 and over 65 free. Open Tu-Su 8:30am-7:30pm. Left half of the building (19th-century Italian paintings) open Tu-Su 12:30-7:30pm. Last entry 6:45pm.
Testaccio And Ostiense
BASILICA DI SAN PAOLO FUORI LE MURA
CHURCH
Ple. San Paolo 1
06 69 88 08 00
In an enormous piazza where all the little bambini have water fights (ideally Catholics vs. heretics: water guns of instant baptism) stands the Basilica di San Paolo Fuori le Mura. As long as its name, this ancient basilica was built over St. Paul’s tomb, which rests below the altar. Since then it has expanded significantly, perhaps just in case—St. Paul’s gotta be down there somewhere. Inside, you’ll see the wonders of heaven (or at least an intricately decorated ceiling), statues of enormous saints, 200 mosaic’d popes, and a hilarious pastor who makes everyone laugh while you sheepishly grin and await the Good Shepherd. Any day now…
B: Basilica San Paolo, or bus #23 to Ostiense/LGT San Paolo stop. Modest dress required. 1hr. guided visits available; reserve online. Basilica free. Cloiste €4. Basilica open daily 7am-6:30pm. Cloister open daily 8am-6:15pm.
MUSEUM
V. Ostiense 106
06 06 06 08
Screw logic. Sometimes you just want to make a museum with gorgeous marble Aphrodite sculptures in front of hulking gray steam boilers. That’s what Centrale Montemartini was thinking. Built inside Rome’s first public electricity plant, this museum winds you through man’s achievements in history, starting with frescoes from Republican Rome and culminating with Apollos backdropped by pipes and diesel engines. Art for the new age, man. Don’t miss the hidden gems of ancient art, such as an enormous mosaic of hunting scenes and fragments of a colossal Fortuna found in the Area Sacra Argentina. It’s almost as powerful and thought-provoking as your steampunk prom pictures.
B: Ostiense. The museum is a 10min. walk down V. Ostiense €5.50, EU citizens ages 18-25 €4.50; combined ticket with Musei Capitolini €11/8.50 (valid for 1 week). Cash only. Open Tu-Su 9am-7pm. Last entry 6:30pm.
Southern Rome
THE APPIAN WAY
ROME
V. Appia Antica
06 51 26 314
Get your wagons out; the Appian Way is calling. A historically famous and important road, the Appian Way stretches 16km from Porta San Sebastiano to Frattocchie (which is far, for all you metric-illiterates) and gives you the opportunity to follow the footsteps of celebrities like Virgil, St. Peter, and Spartacus (…and the bodies of his followers). As soon as you arrive, you’ll realize that walking the Appian Way is equivalent to playing in traffic, as it still is a functioning thoroughfare for motor vehicles. So head out on a Sunday, when the road is closed and there’s less traffic. If you choose to bike it, just know that parts of the Appian Way are not well paved and the cobblestones only get a gold star for effort. The main attraction for the first part of the road will be the 3rd-century catacombs, filled with dead people. And some frescoes. But continue on your way, and you’ll encounter more dead people in tomb ruins and also some beautiful vistas of uncultivated land, parrots, wildflowers rustling in the wind, and some funky cacti. Perfect place for a new profile picture. For a shorter but rockier trip, take V. della Caffarella (to the left of V. Appia Antica) to see some Roman ruins and the remains of your sneakers.
A: San Giovanni. Head through Porta San Giovanni into the piazza. Take bus #218; to reach the info office, push the button to request a stop after you turn left onto V. Appia Antica. The bus continues up V. Ardeatina and drops you off near the Santa Domitilla and San Calisto Catacombs. Alternatively, take B: Circo Massimo or B: Piramide. Take bus #118, which runs along V. Appia Antica to the San Sebastiano Catacombs. If you want to walk, head down V. delle Terme di Caracalla from the Circo Massimo. At Ple. Numa Pompilio, veer right onto V. di Porta San Sebastiano through the city wall and onto V. Appia Antica. Info office at V. Appia Antica 60 offers bike rental, free maps, brochures, a bus ticket machine, and suggestions for activities along the way. For info on Archeobus tours leaving from Termini, call 800 281 281 or visit www.trambusopen.com. Road and park free. Bike rental €3 per hr., €15 per day. Archeobus with audio tour €10. Info office open May-Jul M-Sa 9:30am-1:30pm and 2-5:30pm, Su 9:30am-6:30pm; Aug M-Sa 9:30am-1:30pm and 2-5:30pm, Su 9:30am-5:30pm; Sept-Apr M-Sa 9:30am-1:30pm and 2-4:30pm, Su 9:30am-4:30pm. Archeobus tours daily every 30min. 9:30am-4pm.
FOOD
Trattoria, caffè, osteria, ristorante, pizzeria, gelateria—these are all Italian words for one thing: food. For meals on the go, cafes and pizzerias are the best option, offering panini and thin crust pizza in numerous varieties. Sit-down meals are a social and time-consuming affair in Rome, so don’t expect to see many solo diners. You’ll also have to acclimate to late dinners: most places don’t open until 7:30pm or later, and they don’t get busy until well after 9pm. Expect added fees for table service and bread, and, while water spews freely out of the myriad fountains in Rome, restaurants refuse to give out free tap water. Tipping isn’t usually expected, but this also means that servers are considerably less attentive than you might be used to; you’ll need to be aggressive if you want another glass of wine or the check.
Ancient City
It’s a shame that eating is necessary. Well, not really, but since everyone has to do it—and nearly everyone in Rome comes to the Ancient City to do it—restaurants here are often overcrowded and overpriced. For the best deals, avoid the options closest to the sights and meander down quieter streets.
LA CUCCUMA
RISTORANTE, PIZZERIA $
V. Merulana 221
06 77 20 13 61
You don’t need to impress the cute waiter. You need chicken wrapped in bacon. Here at La Cuccuma, the generously portioned, €9 prix fixe meal (primi, secondi, contorni, and bread) is a steal and comes with delicious options like ham and cheese lasagna, fried chicken, and a large variety of vegetables (since you’re part-time health conscious). A favorite not just among tourists but locals, too, this spacious restaurant, with its rustic sunflower and cat decor, also serves up slices of thin crust pizza for those less ambitious. But don’t be one of them, ‘cuz remember: bacon.
A: Vittorio Emanuele. Walk down V. dello Statuto and turn right onto V. Merulana. Primi €4-5. Secondi €5-6. Pizza €8-16 per kg. Pizze tonde (after 7pm) €4-8.50. Open daily 10am-11pm.
PIZZERIA DA MILVIO
PIZZERIA $
V. dei Serpenti 7
06 48 93 01 45
A deceptively small pizzeria from the front, this place backs it up into a large, open seating area with neon orange chairs, pictures of the chef with celebrities you don’t recognize, and so much food. We’re talking about pastas for primi, fried chicken and baked fish for secondi, and about half a counter filled with dessert. Everything from the cherry pies to the tiramisu will have you shaking your head at your silly self for thinking this was just another pizzeria. Though it can get rather crowded during lunchtime, wait for the other customers to clear out and then prepare yourself to feast.
A: Cavour. From V. Cavour, turn onto V. dei Serpenti and walk 2min. Pizza €0.80-1.40 per etto. Primi €5. Secondi €6. Cash only. Open daily 7am-midnight.
LA TAVERNA DA TONINO E LUCIA
RISTORANTE $$
V. Madonna dei Monti 79
06 47 45 325
Modernity is overrated in Rome. Check out this old-fashioned little restaurant off the busy V. Cavour. At La Taverna da Tonino e Lucia, you can cozy up next to your neighboring table (since space is limited) but also enjoy the coziness that comes with vintage lanterns, rustic furniture, and traditional Roman food. Try the recommended veal rolls with tomato sauce or any of the affordable entrees. You’ll feel right at home, if your home also has cork-lined walls.
B: Cavour. Walk down V. Cavour toward the Fori Imperiali, turn right onto V. dei Serpenti, and turn left onto V. Madonna dei Monti. Primi €8. Secondi €9-14. Cash only. Open M-Sa 12:30-2:30pm and 7-10:30pm.
LA CARBONARA
OSTERIA $$
V. Panisperna 214
06 48 25 176
Serving Rome for 106 years ensures that you rack up an impressive wine cork collection. And at La Carbonara, a massive wine list also goes along with a deliciously famous selection of pasta and classic dishes like carciofi alla giudia (fried artichoke) and cacio e pepe (cheese and peppers). Yes, the spaghetti alla carbonara is good, as the restaurant’s name suggests. Don’t believe our reviews? Check out the walls of this restaurant, which are covered with scribbled love notes to the food. Because, as you might have discovered in Rome, sometimes only really good pasta can rekindle that passion in your heart.
From Basilica di Santa Maria Maggiore, walk down V. di Santa Maria Maggiore, which becomes V. Panisperna. Primi €6-9. Secondi €9-15. Open M-Sa 12:30-2:30pm and 7-11pm.
Centro Storico
Catering to hungry tourists, food in the Centro Storico tends to be overpriced. Your best bet for a quick meal is to head to a panificio (bakery), pasticceria (confectionery), or pizzeria and eat your grub in a nearby piazza. For a sit-down meal, wander down narrow, out-of-the way streets rather than central ones.
DAR FILETTARO A SANTA BARBARA
FISH $
Largo dei Librari 88
06 68 64 018
Sure, Rome’s famous for its pizza and pasta and gelato. But Dar Filettaro a Santa Barbara could make it famous for cod as well. A local and tourist favorite, this restaurant is always busy, and there’s nothing fishy about that. After being handed a one-sided menu featuring the restaurant’s famous fried cod for only €5, almost everyone orders this one delicious meal. Getting a plate with just one cod on it might not seem that impressive by your Big Mac standards, but once you taste it in all its fried and seasoned glory, you’ll realize why people keep coming here. The inside of the restaurant a bit small and cramped, with tables lining every possible wall, so if the weather’s nice, opt to sit and listen to a mandolin player or kids playing soccer in the small piazza outside.
From Campo dei Fiori, walk down V. dei Giubbonari and turn left onto the tiny Largo dei Librari. Salads, antipasti, and fried fis €5. Desserts €0.50-3.50. Beer €2.50-4.50. Cash only. Open M-Sa 5:30-11:30pm.
GELATERIA DEL TEATRO
GELATERIA $
V. di San Simone 70
06 45 47 880
It’s gelato. Do we need to tell you more? How about this: there’s no such thing as bad gelato, but if there had to be the best gelato, it might just be here. Always crowded with locals and tourists alike, Gelateria del Teatro will force you to pull a ticket number and wait your turn oh-so-patiently while you stare at mouthwatering flavors like Sicilian pistachio and cheese and almond and fig. And while you’re here, take a look at the window outside and you’ll see cooks making your gelato from fresh ingredients right before your very eyes. In that moment, all your problems will fade, and you’ll realize the world is a beautiful place.
From P. Navona, turn left onto V. dei Coronari and look for the tiny V. di San Simone on the left. Free tours offered for groups; call to reserve a spot. Cones and cup €2-10. Credit card min. €20. Open daily in high season 11am-1am; in low season 11am-midnight.
FORNO MARCO ROSCIOLI
BAKERY $$
V. dei Chiavari 34
06 68 64 045
Everyone needs a box of pasta shaped like Roman monuments in their pantry. And what better place to get it than at Forno Marco Roscioli? At this bakery, deli, and grocery store, you can also grab some flaky rolls with almonds and raisins or some thin crust pizza while you’re here. And if you’re feeling especially hungry, try the hot tomato gnocchi. While the food is great, don’t expect to find somewhere to sit. There’s always a crowd in here (no, that’s not just your personal paparazzi), so grab your food to go and eat it while you wander the small streets of this neighborhood.
From Campo dei Fiori, walk down V. dei Giubbonari and turn left onto V. dei Chiavari. Primi €5-7. Pizza €9.50-18 per kg. Open M-Sa 7am-8pm.
PIZZERIA $$
V. del Governo Vecchio 114
06 68 61 617
Pizzeria de Baffetto is as crowded with patrons as its walls are with pictures of famous people who’ve stopped by over the years. So it’s pretty crowded. Thanks to what is arguably the best pizza in Rome, lines start forming fast, so get here early. And while there are no Soup Nazis, service can be brusque; be prepared to order fast and don’t worry too much about what you pick—everything here is delicious.
From P. Navona, exit onto P. Pasquina and continue as it becomes V. del Governo Vecchio. Pizza €5-9. Cash only. Open M 6:30pm-12:30am, W-F 6:30pm-12:30am, Sa-Su 12:30-3:30pm and 6:30pm-12:30am
CUL DE SAC
RISTORANTE $$
P. Pasquino 73
06 68 80 10 94
Given the four walls covered with bottles of wine, Jesus must have been especially fond of this restaurant. Cul de Sac definitely caters to the alcoholic in you and makes sure that even after you’ve tried all 1500 types of wine, you can still read the menu in your native tongue, whether it’s English or Russian. Although this place is popular among the tourists, don’t dismiss it just yet, since this just means you can get anything from the international baba ghanoush to the more local pig’s head sausage—all while taking your Eucharist very seriously.
From P. Navona, walk onto P. Pasquino. Primi €7.30-9. Secondi €6.60-10. Desserts €4.30. Open daily noon-4pm and 6pm-12:30am.
Piazza di Spagna
FRASCHETTERIA BRUNETTI
RISTORANTE $$
V. Angelo Brunetti 25B
06 32 14 103
“Baked” and “pasta” are two of your favorite words. So when you hear of the baked pasta at Fraschetteria Brunetti, it’s okay to fall in love. Specializing in various types of lasagna, ranging from your classic cheese and bacon to a fancy date-level salmon and broccoli to gorgonzola and walnuts, this cozy restaurant will make sure you get your fill of fresh, unique pasta at some of the most affordable prices in the area. Also, their mascot is a pig eating a carrot. It’s adorable. You can’t not go in.
A: Flaminio-Piazza del Popolo. From P. del Popolo, exit onto V. di Ripetta and turn right onto V. Angelo Brunetti. Panini €3.50. Primi €10. Prix-fixe lunch of entree, coffee, and drink €9. Cocktails €4. Open M-Sa 11am-2am, but may close earlier or later depending on the crowd.
CAMBI
PIZZERIA, BAKERY $
V. del Leoncino 30
06 68 78 081
There are a lot of Spanish Steps; you probably need some sugar to make it up all of them. Correction: you probably need a lot of sugar. Here at Cambi, you can stock up on delicious, chocolatey cookies, cream-filled pastries, and those fruit tarts that you eat every day for your vitamin intake. If you can make it past the siren song of the pastries, go west, young man, to consider your pizza, panini and tramezzini options, all of which could be yours for a very reasonable price. And to avoid V. del Corso’s designer-priced water, stop by here for a bottle of dihydrogen monoxide for only €1.
From Ara Pacis/Mausoleo di Augusto, walk down V. Tomacelli and turn right onto V. Leoncino. No seating. Cookie €0.80, €33 per kg. Panini €3.50. Pizza €8-15 per kg. Crostatine €11 per kg. Cash only. Open M-Sa 8am-8pm.
GIOLITTI
GELATERIA $
Via degli Uffici del Vicario 40
06 69 91 243
Have you had enough gelato? Your teachers were wrong, and there are such things as stupid questions. You always need more gelato. So after wandering through designer shops, wander your way over to this gelateria. Caught between V. del Corso and the Pantheon, this spot boasts an enormous green sign, crowds of tourists, and occasional visits from celebrities like Obama and Justin Timberlake. Which is probably why the waiters always have their suit and tie out. After serving customers for over 100 years though, Giolitti can show you a few things about gelato. An enormous selection of flavors and fancy wooden and marble counters give you a taste of luxury without the high price. Try the pistachio and limoncello.
From V. del Corso, turn left onto V. del Parlamento and left onto V. di Campo Marzio. At the end of the road, turn left onto V. degli Uffici del Vicario. Gelat €2.50-5. Open daily 7am-1:30am
NATURIST CLUB
RISTORANTE, VEGETARIAN $$$
V. della Vite 14, 4th fl.
06 67 92 509
Much to your chagrin, the macrobiotic diet does not mean supersized portions of everything. But that doesn’t mean you shouldn’t try the menu at this macrobiotic restaurant. Focusing on organic, grain-based food, this restaurant cooks up delicious, atypical meals like ravioli stuffed with creamy tofu and pesto (€8) or seitan escalope with grilled vegetables (€9). Depending on the dishes of the day, offerings include fresh fish, grain-based pasta, and even homemade ice cream.
Directly off V. del Corso around P. di San Lorenzo in Lucina; turn right onto V. della Vite from V. del Corso and look for #14. Buzz and walk to 4th fl. Primi €8-9. Secondi €9-11. Lunch combo €8-10. Fixed vegetarian dinner €16. Dinner combo €20-25. Organic wine €12-16 per bottle. Open M-F 12:30-3pm and 7:30-10:30pm, Sa 7:30-10:30pm.
Jewish Ghetto
Most restaurants in this neighborhood are on Via del Portico d’Ottavia, and while some of the prices might force you into a real ghetto, they’re a great alternative to classic Italian fare. Most restaurants are kosher and close early on Friday and Saturday.
ANTICO FORNO DEL GHETTO
BAKERY, GROCERY $
P. Costaguti 31
06 68 80 30 12
A grocery store and a restaurant? Your love affair with food is going to get intense. Tell your significant other that you’re going to be working late because Antico Forno del Ghetto will have you swooning. With large selections of fresh bread, smoked meat, mounds of olives, and yes, even pastries, you’ll never want to leave. Pick up some fresh pizza, some fruits and vegetables to take home, and as many cannoli as you can fit in your embrace—and all of it at a price that will make you truly believe that love is sweet and kind.
From Ponte Garibaldi, walk down V. Arenula, turn right onto V. di Santa Maria del Pianto, and continue into P. Costaguti. Only pizza and bread guaranteed kosher. Pizza and focacci €1.20-2 per slice, €7.70-9.70 per kg. Cash only. Open M-F 8am-2:30pm and 5-8pm, Sa-Su 8am-1pm.
LA TAVERNA DEL GHETTO
KOSHER $$$
V. del Portico d’Ottavia 8
06 68 80 97 71
La Taverna del Ghetto might appear to be another one of the small, intimate Middle Eastern cafes that line the Jewish Ghetto. But this cafe has junk in the trunk when you check it out from behind. An enormous dining area and party space for all your kosher-loving friends, you’ll get served—anything from fish to fiori di zucca (zucchini flowers) to your stomach’s fill of fried artichoke. And just when you think you’ve had enough, La Taverna will bring out some ricotta pies and finish you off.
From Teatro Marcello, walk down V. del Piscaro and veer right as it becomes V. del Portico d’Ottavia. Primi €12-14. Secondi €16-25. Open M-Th noon-11pm, F noon-4pm, Sa 9-11pm, Su noon-11pm.
CAFE, KOSHER $$$
V. Santa Maria del Pianto 68/69
06 68 64 398
Sleek glass counters, modern white bar stools, and a full display of delicious (and kosher!) meals—welcome to the ghetto. Here, Kosher Bistrot Caffè’s flaky breads and pasta selections are what bring all the boys to the yard. Sprawl out on the spacious patio seating outside or choose the glassy and classy tables inside as you holla at some curry chicken with zucchini or a massive plate of salumi. Damn, it feels good to be a gangsta.
From Ponte Garibaldi, walk up V. Arenula and turn right onto V. Santa Maria del Pianto. Primi €9-11. Secondi €8-9. Beer and wine €6-7. Cocktails €7-8. Open M-Th 9am-9pm, F 9am-sundown, Su 9am-9pm. Aperitivo 5-9pm.
Vatican City
The longest lines in Rome eventually become hungry crowds. The selection of neighborhood trattorias and small stores that lines the quiet streets outside the Vatican won’t disappoint, but the bright English menus and beckoning waiters closer to the museums will.
CACIO E PEPE
RISTORANTE $$
V. Giuseppe Avezzana 11
06 32 17 268
www.trattoriacacioepepeprati.com
One does not name their restaurant after a single dish unless that dish is pretty damn good. Though it’s a bit far from Vatican City (making it okay for us to swear, right?), Cacio e Pepe is worth the walk. Plenty of checkered tables and the friendly staff will welcome you in like the arms of St. Peter’s Square. And you’ll be converting to Pastafarianism while spaghetti is flying into your mouth if you order the main dish, cacio e pepe (fresh egg pasta topped with oil, grated cheese, and black pepper). So for some of the most delicious pasta in Rome (at quite affordable prices), come here.
A: Lepanto. From the metro, walk up V. Lepanto (away from the Vatican), turn right onto Vle. delle Millizie, then left onto V. Giuseppe Avezzana. Primi €8. Secondi €8-10. Cash only. Open M-F 12:30-3pm and 7:30-11:30pm, Sa 12:30-3pm.
OLD BRIDGE GELATERIA
GELATERIA $
Vle. dei Bastioni di Michelangelo 5
06 45 59 99 61
This gelateria is as crowded as the Vatican Museums at noon, but the reward is just as sweet. Service is fast, prices are cheap, and portions are St. Peter’s Basilica-sized (read: big). And we know guys and guides have lied to you about size before, but the €2 medium with three flavors that barely fit into your cup, all topped with copious amounts of whipped cream, will convert you into a believer. Flavors range from classic strawberry to mango to pistachio with ricotta. Delicious. God bless the Vatican.
Off P. Risorgimento and across the street from the line to the Vatican Museums. Gelat €1.50-5. Frappes €2-3. Cash only. Open M-Sa 8am-2am, Su 3pm-2am.
FA BIO
CAFE, ORGANIC $
V. Germanico 43
06 64 52 58 10
Healthy is the new sexy. And even if this cafe’s name refers to said healthy organic produce, all those freshly made sandwiches and fruit smoothies may be just what you need to attract a dreamy Italian. Or just a dreamy Italian sandwich with prosciutto, mozzarella, arugula, mustard, and olive oil. We consider that a delectable date. Try a drink for your health that’s not red wine, like one of the fresh fruit smoothies, and then go against everything you stand for and order a salad.
A: Ottaviano. Walk down V. Ottaviano and turn left onto V. Germanico. Panini €4. Salads €4.50. Cookies €0.50-1. Fruit juices and smoothies €3.50. Cash only. Open in summer M-Sa 9am-8pm; in winter M-Sa 9am-5pm.
BAKERY $
V. Tacito 20
06 32 35 133
Fresh fruit tarts, cream-filled croissants, warm cookies dipped in chocolate. Dare we say…heavenly? At this bakery, with its sleek wooden and glass counters, comfy white cushioned bar stools, and delicious selections of pastries, you should indulge a little. There are worse sins than gluttony. Try the creamy lemon tart topped with a fresh blueberry, or just get an entire tray full of your heart’s desire of fruity and chocolate-covered goodness. It’ll be the best €5-6 you’ll ever spend, and they even wrap it up all fancy (even though you’re probably just going to eat it all on a park bench a couple blocks down).
A: Lepanto. Walk down V. Ezio and continue straight as it becomes V. Tacito. Also sells basic groceries. No seating. Pizza €7-13 per kg. Cookies €9.50 per kg. Fruit and cream tarts €1.50 each. Cash only. Open M-Sa 8am-2:30pm and 4:30-8pm.
Trastevere
There are plenty of dining options in Trastevere, whether you want a luxurious sit-down meal, a bite on the go, or something in between. While the piazze are full of great choices, explore smaller side streets for some of the harder-to-find gems.
LE FATE
RISTORANTE $$
Vle. Trastevere 130/134
06 58 00 971
Once upon a time, there was a restaurant that gave students bruschetta, pasta, dessert, and a glass of wine all for €10. Fairy tale? Nope. Forget free will: go to Le Fate. Witchcraft, you may cry, but with a student ID, you’ll be let into this fantastical world with cheap, delicious food and an atmosphere that can only be described as, well, magical. With fairies gracing the lamps, bramble and flashing lights on the ceiling, and even a hidden trap door we spotted a staff member slip down, live out that childhood dream to be in a fairy tale and run with woodland sprites. Have a bit more money to spend? The candlelit Le Fate is also a lovely and affordable place to take your date on a romantic evening without selling your soul to an evil sorceress. With its decent selection of wine, fresh homemade pasta, and ethereal ambient lighting, any visit to Le Fate will end with a happily ever after.
About 15min. down Vle. Trastevere from P. G. Belli. Free Wi-Fi. Inquire about cooking classes and apartment rentals for students. Primi €9-12. Secondi €10-18. Cash only. Open daily 6-11pm.
LA RENELLA
PIZZERIA, BAKERY $
V. del Moro 15/16
06 58 17 265
Walk into La Renella at any hour and you’ll probably find a line of people waiting to buy food. While it may take you some hazy conversions to figure out the metric system as you stare at the menu, you’ll soon come to know that the pizza is pretty cheap—and delicious. Watching everyone else get their slices before you will be a test of patience and endurance. Surrounded by kilograms, Italian speakers, and flyers for local events and sales, you’ll also get a taste of a true Italian neighborhood eatery. And when you pass by the cookies and pies, you’ll probably want to get a taste of their cherry pie as well.
From P. Trilussa, walk down V. della Renella. Back entrance on V. del Politeama. Pizza €6-17 per kg. Sweet tortes and crostate €11-18 per kg. Biscotti €11-20 per kg. Open daily 7am-2am.
PIZZERIA DA SIMONE
PIZZERIA, DELI $
V. Giacinto Carini 50
06 58 14 980
Need some extra calories before you approach the summit of Gianicolo Hill? Stop by Pizzeria da Simone. Don’t let the long line scare you away. Though Simone’s is usually crowded, the staff works fast and will get you some delicious, hot pizza in no time. With anything from shrimp on your pizza to a wide selection of fresh pasta, you’ll get it here and get it cheap. Due to the flocks of people who rush to this pizzeria, there’s not much space to sit, so take your pizza with you and eat it sitting at the top of Gianicolo Hill. Or, if the temptation is too great, eat it on your way up.
From the Porta San Pancrazio on Gianicolo Hill, walk downhill on V. Garibaldi, then take a left and follow V. Giancinto Carini for about 7min. Pizza €1.50-4 per slice, €7-17 per kg. Vegetables €12-17 per kg. Pasta €13-17 per kg. Cash only. Open M-Sa 7am-8:30pm.
CASETTA DI TRASTEVERE
RISTORANTE $$
P. de Renzi 31/32
06 58 00 158
Clotheslines, checkered tablecloths, and plastic lawn chairs outside might remind you of home. While it’s not the same as your mom cooking free meals for you, the food at Casetta di Trastevere is still pretty damn cheap (we’ll put money in the swear jar later, Ma). With plenty of outdoor seating overlooking the trees and vines crawling up Trastevere’s alleyways and the feeling of an old brick home inside, this place is a perfect spot to rest your tired feet. While it does attract quite a few tourists, you can’t blame them, since the prices are good and so is the pizza. And if Italy has given you more than your fair share of pizza, order some bruschetta or pasta, also decently priced. So pull up your lawn chair, join the crowds, and feel at home with the dozens of strangers surrounding you.
From P. Santa Maria in Trastevere, walk down V. di Piede until you hit V. della Pelliccia. P. de Renzi is just beyond. Pizza €3-6. Primi €5-8. Secondi €5-12. Desserts €3-5. Cash only. Open daily noon-11:30pm.
Termini and San Lorenzo
Termini and San Lorenzo are dominated by restaurants representing both extremes of the price range: cheap eats and overpriced tourist menus. Avoid restaurants near the station and head to the side streets for better options. Hostel dwellers with kitchen access should befriend the huge SMA grocery store on P. dell’Esquilino. (Open M-Sa 8am-9pm, Su 8:30am-8:30pm.)
ANTICA PIZZERIA DE ROMA
PIZZERIA $
V. XX Settembre 41
06 42 01 01 20
Pizza and video games are what made you a social butterfly in high school. Live out those glory days again at Antica Pizzeria de Roma, where you can order a slice of some of the cheapest pizza in the neighborhood and try out the arcade games in the corner. There’s some seating against the wall facing a mirror, too, so you get to have a hot date to go along with your bargain price but still delicious pizza.
From P. della Repubblica, walk down V. Vittorio Emanuele Orlando and turn right onto V. XX Settembre. Individual pizza €2.20-5.50, €0.70-2 per etto. Cash only. Open M-Sa 9:30am-9:30pm.
PASTICCERIA STRABBIONI ROMA
CAFE, BAKERY $
V. Servio Tullio 2
06 48 72 027
If you thought your outfit today was vintage, wait until you see Pasticceria Strabbioni Roma. Opened in 1888, this cafe still rocks the hand-painted flowers on the ceiling and old-fashioned lamps like it’s nobody’s business. But what really makes this place stand out is its food. Order one of their sandwiches, or perhaps a freshly baked pastry will do. The budino di riso, a small rice pudding cake, is a specialty of theirs. And since drinking is a specialty of yours, order one of their cocktails. At €3.50-4 a drink, you can’t afford not to.
From Porta Pia, walk down V. XX Settembre and turn right onto V. Servio Tullio. There is also a sit-down restaurant down the street at V. Servio Tullio 8/10. Panini €3-5. Pastries €0.80-3. Cash only. Open M-Sa 7am-8pm.
