• EMERGENCY TELEPHONE: 112
• FIRE: 115
• POLICE: 113
• HOSPITALS: Rimini’s main hospital is Ospedale Infermi (Vle. Luigi Settembrini, 2)
• PHARMACIES: Vle. Regina Margherita, 261
Getting There
Rimini is best reached by train. The train station is in the city center. To get to the beach where most hostels and summer life are, take Bus 11 from the train station. It goes right down Vle. Regina Margherita, Rimini’s main drag.
Getting Around
By Bus
The main bus to know is Bus 11. This goes from the city center and train station all the way down Vle. Regina Margherita, which it follows to the end of town. Bus stops don’t have names but numbers. For example, Sunflower Beach Backpacker Hostel is at stop 26. Tickets cost €1.30.
By Taxi
Taxis are fairly inexpensive in Rimini, but if you’re trying to catch a ride home from the club, try to rely more on the foreigner bus, which your hostel owners can arrange.
By Foot
Rimini is easily walkable, especially if you want to stick around the beach and clubbing scene. To get into the city, hop on the bus 11. The city center is very walkable, too.
The Medici. Botticelli. Dante. What do these names, familiar to anyone who has studied history, art, or literature, have in common? All of them were natives of Florence, and their presence endures in the city today. As the birthplace of the Italian Renaissance and an epicenter for high culture, Florence has become one of the artistic treasure troves of the world. You can barely walk along the streets and piazze without running into famous works (or their replicas), and the myriad museums are rivaled in number by dozens of churches that house priceless artwork and frescoes all their own. But this city is so much more than that: you can sip regional Chianti at the many cafes and bars, enjoy traditional Tuscan cuisine in trattorias and ristoranti, and view spectacular live performances of everything from music to theater. This is a city of purely Florentine sights, tastes, and customs, and if you allow yourself to embrace that culture, you’ll no doubt leave feeling like a true fiorentino.
ORIENTATION
The Duomo
Florence’s distinctive Duomo is perhaps the most helpful feature for wandering tourists—it’s easy enough to find your way back here, so learn the route from the Duomo to your hostel and you’ll never be lost. If you imagine a piazza-compass, the Baptistery points west and the Duomo points east. The tall tower just south of the Duomo is the Campanile. While the streets south of P. del Duomo run straight, the northern ones veer eastward. This huge, bustling piazza is full of tourists during the day, but the incredibly diverse crowd makes it a surprisingly cool place to people watch.
Piazza della Signoria
Near the Uffizi Gallery and the Arno River, this piazza is perhaps the best part of the city to wander. Cheap food and accommodations are tucked away among the many ritzier options, but the eastern portion of this neighborhood (near the abominable Casa di Dante) is your best bet. Take Via Calimari toward the Mercato Nuovo to observe daily chalk art creations that are wiped clean by the noisy, street-cleaning trucks. Outside the Uffizi, you’ll often find human statues and other street performers, while Piazza della Repubblica is the place to go for live music.
Santa Maria Novella
The Santa Maria Novella train station will likely be your first introduction to Florence, and the decision to venture east or south will color your earliest impressions of the city. To the east of the station, you’ll find the cheap accommodations and casual food joints that you’d expect near the train station of any major city. To the south, clustered around the church that gives the station its name, you’ll find art galleries, modern museums, and a calm stretch of the Arno. Don’t bother venturing north or west, as you’ll be leaving Florence’s historic center before you’ve even set foot in it.
San Lorenzo
Just east of the train station lies a land of markets and 99-cent stores. Come for the cheap accommodations on Via Faenza and Via Nazionale, and stay for the food around San Lorenzo’s vibrant outdoor market on Via dell’Aviento and the adjoining Mercato Centrale. If you’re only here for a little while, these will be the most memorable sights in San Lorenzo, which is light on museums. Nightlife is more of the relaxed bar variety and a bit removed from the more happening Florentine clubs.
San Marco
By “San Marco,” we mean pretty much everything between Piazza San Marco and the northern edge of the old city. The primary draw of this area is the density of museums and bus stops, not to mention the (real!) statue of David in the Accademia (which, unfortunately, also comes with a block-long line of tourists). To the east, Piazza Santissima Annunziata has its own concentration of sights worth exploring. Late at night, stick to the southern edge of the area or travel with a friend—north of P. San Marco is one of the quietest parts of the old city and can be unsafe after the buses stop running.
Santa Croce
Santa Croce is Florence’s student and nightlife center and a great place to go exploring. The neighborhood spans the area east of the Duomo down to the river and is laced with cheap restaurants. As you wander, note the neighborhood’s walls—though plaques marking the water line of the 1966 Arno flood can be found all over Florence, the profusion of watermarks here show that Santa Croce was hit the hardest. Piazza Santa Croce is concentrated with clothing and leather shops, and the antique market under Piazza dei Ciompi’s old arches is worth checking out even if you don’t plan on lugging anything home. Piazza di Sant’Ambrogio is the epitome of Florence’s casual, piazza-based nightlife scene. If there were cheap accommodations in Santa Croce, this would be the best budget base in the city.
The best way to get your money’s worth in Florence is to travel in a small group, so if you’re still hesitant to invite that slightly annoying friend with the buckteeth on this trip, remember that he could save you a fair deal of cash. Unfortunately, solo travelers with a fear of hostel showers are out of luck—singles in otherwise affordable hostels often cost almost as much as doubles.
ACADEMY HOSTEL
HOSTEL $$
V. Ricasoli 9
055 26 45 447
The art of hosteling here is polished to perfection. Young backpackers get a bed, free Wi-Fi at reception, privacy screens, lockers, private baths, a luxurious free breakfast, and a free snack of pasta and wine that could substitute for a light dinner. Everything is aimed to bring people together, though loud partying is not allowed.
Less than a block north of the Duomo, on the left. Free Wi-Fi in reception. Breakfast included. Complimentary pasta and wine snack at 6:30pm. Dorm €30-38; singles €38. 
Reception 24hr. Lockout 11am-2pm.
FLORENCE YOUTH HOSTEL
HOSTEL $$
V. della Condotta 4
329 39 80 218
Roll out of bed and into the Uffizi—you can’t get much more central than this. You may love the location during the day, but you might be less of a fan at night when drunken student noise rises from the street. Here’s what to do: down complimentary tea and coffee and take advantage of the staff’s uncommon willingness to give you advice about the city.
Coming from V. dei Calzaioli, the building is on the left. Florence Youth Hostel is on the top floor. Wi-Fi, local calls and some international calls, maps, tea, and coffee included. No elevator. Breakfast M-Sa. Dorms €28; twins with bath €45; doubles €90; triples €105. Hot breakfast €2.50. Reception 24hr.
OSTELLO ARCHI ROSSI
HOSTEL $
V. Faenza 94r
055 29 08 04
Choose your room wisely—the lower the floor the better—to avoid the overcrowded bathrooms on the upper floors. Stroll through the garden or past the graffitied walls, gripping a free cappuccino and snacking on giant portions of pasta. This is definitely one of the best values in Florence, particularly for solo travelers on a budget.
From the train station, take V. Nazionale and turn left onto V. Faenza. Free Wi-Fi available. Breakfast included. Lockers and computers available. Dorm €30; singles €45.
HOSTEL PLUS
HOSTEL $
V. Santa Caterina d’Alessandria 15
055 62 86 347
This chain hostel is better than chain smoking, chain mail, and maybe even daisy chains. TWhen the place is crowded, be sure to bring your own lock, as the constant flux of people makes it easy for non-guests to walk in. Special offers include a pasta and wine dinner and all-you-can-eat breakfast combo €10).
Follow V. Nazionale until it changes names. Hostel Plus is the big gray thing on the left soon after P. dell’Indipendenza. Free Wi-Fi. Dorm €20-24. Doubles (can-be-made-singles) €60. Discount 10% when booked on their website. Reception 24hr. Walk-ins, come after noon to check availability.
This is the cool, artsy half of the Oltrarno, the area on the south side of the Arno. With a concentration of pharmacies, supermarkets, and dogs, it feels more authentic and lived in than the other side of the river but still has a high density of hostels, museums, and study-abroad students. The main tourist draw is the Palazzo Pitti complex, but let the young and trendy vibe lead you a few extra steps to eat in Piazza Santo Spirito and explore the jewelry boutiques, art galleries, and studios nestled in the residential streets.
East Oltrarno
The most common reason to trek to East Oltrarno is for the unbeatable view from the Piazzale Michelangelo. This generally quiet residential area is laced with some of Florence’s most active nightlife, which makes crossing the river worth your while. We’ve set the Oltrarnos’ dividing line at Ponte Vecchio, but you’ll find a large residential stretch between the bridge and the lively evening entertainment around Ponte San Niccolo.
SIGHTS
This section can be summed up in a single word: Renaissance. Part of being in Florence is reaching the day when you’ve officially seen more of Jesus’s face than your own mother’s. You may be surprised by just how few Renaissance artists strayed from the biblical theme, but they’ll still manage to wow you again and again. Because the art collection is so vast, attempting to see too much too quickly will leave you with nothing but a devalued mush of crucifixes and semi-attractive women. It’s best to choose a few select spots and take your time. When you’ve had enough Medici and Michelangelo for one day, there are a handful of unusual spots that aren’t rooted in the 16th century. You can also check out www.firenzeturismo.it for information regarding current exhibitions, festivals, and other events in Florence.
The Duomo
The Duomo-related sights (the church and its complex) are pretty much the main event in this neighborhood. You can enter the Duomo for free, but the rest of the complex requires a combined ticket (€10) to see the Baptistery, the Dome, the Campanile, the Museo and Santa Reparata. The ticket expires within 24hr. after 1st entrance and after 6 days if unused.
DUOMO
CHURCH
P. del Duomo
055 23 02 885
Construction of Florence’s Duomo began before anyone had come up with a solution to actually build and support the signature red dome that now pokes its head above the city. A man named Filippo Brunelleschi claimed he could build the largest and tallest dome ever made, and would do so without scaffolding. Though most called him a lunatic, he won the dome’s commission in a contest without ever revealing how he actually planned to build it. Somehow, he came through in one of the greatest triumphs of Renaissance architecture. Unfortunately, all the Duomo’s artwork has been moved to the Museo Opera complex (see below), and to get a real view of the Duomo fresco you’ll need to pay for the separate climbing entrance. If the interior space and shallowness make you long for smaller spaces, you can take the stairs in the middle of the church’s floor down to the low-ceiling basement and pay €3 to see the archaeological remnants of the Duomo’s previous site.
Come on, you can’t miss it. Audio tour available in English. Free. Archeological site €3. Audio tour €5, students and under 18 €3.50, groups €2.50. Keep an eye open for free tours of the Duomo (inside). Open M-F 10am-4:30pm, Sa 10am-4:45pm. Holidays 1:30-4:45pm.
CHURCH
P. del Duomo
055 23 02 885
If slippery, narrow, and winding staircases sound romantic or you want to feel what’s it’s like to be a stone worm, try going up the Duomo for the sake of magnificent panoramas. The Campanile’s 414 steps are steep, not too crowded, and lead to a view of the Duomo’s exterior. The Duomo’s 463 are more strenuous, though wider, and have a separate exit path, but their best feature is that they lead right past the bright Judgment Day fresco inside the dome. However, if a prospect of climbing nearly 1000 steps in a day sounds too harsh, Let’s Go advises to opt for the Campanile: the climb is easier, and you can take cool pictures of the Dome (which you cannot do while being on top of it).
Enter the dome from the north side of the round part of the Duomo. Enter the Campanile at the base of the big tower. Not for the out-of-shape. Dome open M-F 8:30am-6:20pm, Sa 8:30am-5pm. Campanile open daily 8:30am-7:30pm, last entrance 6:50pm.
Piazza della Signoria
Piazza della Signoria is one of the most beautiful parts of Florence. Home to the city’s most famous museum, the Uffizi Gallery, the area also holds innumerable noteworthy outdoor spaces, from the Ponte Vecchio to the Loggia.
UFFIZI GALLERY
MUSEUM
Ple. degli Uffizi 6
055 23 88 651
Welcome to the Uffizi. The first thing you should know about this museum is that Michelangelo’s David is not here—he’s on the other side of town, in the Accademia. Also, the Mona Lisa is in France, and de Nile ain’t just a river in Egypt.
You’re going to wait in line for what seems like an eternity. Consider passing the time by drawing terribly unflattering portraits of the people around you and trying to sell them for a euro. Alternatively, attempt to recreate Venus’s hairstyle, guess the nationality of the others waiting in line, or convince everyone that you are the reincarnation of Botticelli and should be getting in for free.
Start the Uffizi from the top. Don’t crumple up your ticket at the bottom of your bag because, after climbing two flights of the Uffizi’s grand staircase, you’ll be asked to flash your biglietto once more. At this point, you’re standing in an enormous hallway lined with statues and frescoed within an inch of its life. To deal with all those numerous carved pieces of people, try finding the ones that look most like people you know (bonus points if the statue is naked).
Room 2 begins the long parade of Jesuses that you’ll be visiting today. Rooms 3-4 are particularly gilded. In Martini’s Annunciation, Gabriel literally spits some Latin at Mary, who responds with the mother of all icy stares.
Room 8 is all about Fra Filippino Lippi and something that seems to be his ultimate life advice: when in doubt, pray. Greeting a baby, chatting with friends, finding love — there’s no excuse why your hands shouldn’t be folded.
Our second big-name artist is in Room 9. On your left, the seven virtues—which woman is which?—are lined up like dating show contestants, all painted by Pollaiolo. Well, all except for Fortitude, on the left. She is one of the earliest documented works by his student, a fellow by the name of Botticelli.
Rooms 10-14 are the main event. Where there be crowds and benches, there be the postcard works. Not that we need to tell you this, but Botticelli’s The Birth of Venus is on the left—that’s right, behind all those people. Push your way to the front to enjoy all the little details that don’t come across in the coffee mug and mousepad reproductions, like the gold trim on the trees, the detail of the fabrics, the luminous, sleepy expression, and the weave Venus stole off Rapunzel.
Room 15 is another example of the student surpassing the teacher. Examine the painting by Andrea del Verrochio across the room on the right. Several of the painting’s figures—it is still contested which ones specifically—were painted by his student, Leonardo da Vinci. Maybe you’ve heard of him? The two paintings to the left are fully Leonardo’s.
Odds are, you’re going to start speeding up at this point, so to keep pace, you might want to take a break at the cafeteria—go out into the main hallway and follow the signs. This is your typical overpriced museum cafe (coffee €1.80 without table service), give or take a balcony view of the Palazzo Vecchio. Take some snacks with you or buy an espresso at the bar (stand outside to avoid the pricey table service) and refresh your brain.
In Room 35 is a Massacre of the Innocents by Daniele Ricciarelli. Despite the pile of dead babies in this painting, Let’s Go does not condone the making of dead baby jokes. Downstairs in Room 63, the Hulk finally got a love story, even though a Romeo and Juliet one. Room 64’s gnome portrait represents Renaissance’s version of 3D.
If you have time and energy left at this point, the last few rooms are refreshingly different 18th-century stuff. If you don’t, no one has to know. Congratulations on finishing the Uffizi; now you can go act like a Botticelli expert, even if the only thing you remember is Venus’s terrible haircut.
It’s the long narrow part of P. della Signoria. Enter (or stand in line) on the left; reserve tickets on the right. To avoid the lines without paying for a reservation, arrive late in the day, when your time in the museum will be limited by closing (but chances are, you won’t have energy for all the rooms anyway). Expect to wait 2-3hr. to enter. €11, EU citizens 18-25 €5.50, EU citizens under 18 and over 65 and the disabled free. €4 reservation fee. Audio tour €5.50. Open Tu-Su 8:15am-6:35pm.
THE BARGELLO
MUSEUM
V. del Proconsolo 4
055 23 88 606
Though you’d never know it from the inside, the Bargello was once the first public building in Florence: a brutal prison. The statues here seem to know this—most are mid-kill, mid-struggle, or mid-sprint. Bas-reliefs on the walls of the now-peaceful courtyard (where the executions took place) must be covering something—they are placed like the pictures that cover chipped paint in your dorm room. The mysterious halls have more than just dark history; there is now a rich collection of sculptures by some famous names, more baby Jesuses, and other curious little things exhibited that get weird once you take a closer look. Wait, what are you talking about—the monk statue standing on babies’ heads is completely normal.
Behind the Palazzo Vecchio €7, EU citizens ages 18-25 €3.50, EU citizens under 18 and over 65 free. Cash only. Open daily 8:15am-4:50pm. Last entry 4:20pm. Closed 2nd and 4th M and 1st, 3rd, and 5th Su each month.
PIAZZA DELLA SIGNORIA
PIAZZA
P. della Signoria is the place to go if you want to see sculptures without the museum prices. The Loggia, a portico full of statues that’s as legit as any room in the Uffizi, is free. It features Cellini’s Perseus with the Head of Medusa, Giambologna’s The Rape of the Sabine Women, and other sculptures on exciting topics. Spoiler alert: the David in front of the Palazzo Vecchio is fake—the real deal is in the Accademia. The reproduction here stands just as proud as the original did when he was installed in this exact location to celebrate Florence’s dominance over Tuscany. To the left of fake David is a giant fountain that Michelangelo despised so much he called it a waste of perfectly good marble. This bustling daytime piazza swirls with tour groups, art students sketching, and street musicians but gets calmer and more empty in the evenings, as you can’t walk through it and stand in line for the Uffizi anymore.
This is the main piazza north of the Uffizi.
BRIDGE
This bridge has been called the “old” bridge for, oh, 400 years or so, ever since the Florentines built a second bridge over the Arno and had to find a way to distinguish this one from their new ponte. But its way to cope with aging is to revel in romance and gold. Gold shops line up on its curvy backside, providing couples on the promenade something to talk about. And if they happen to forget about their surroundings, oh well—the bridge is prettier from afar anyway.
From the Uffizi, walk to the river. It’s the one with the shops on it.
PIAZZA DELLA REPUBBLICA
PIAZZA
If bunk beds and complementary bed bugs (not that Let’s Go would recommend such a place), long lines, and endless trains have killed your romantic mood, head straight over to this place to make your epic European adventure seem just like a movie again. Street musicians will provide a nice musical background. A carousel (with frescoes, just like anywhere else in Italy) is ready to sweep your date—or you—off your feet for just €1.50. The trick is to get a gelato somewhere else before walking over to this place, so you won’t have to treat your date to a dinner in a pricey garden cafe.
From P. della Signoria, walk north up V. del Calzaioli, and turn left onto V. Speziali.
PALAZZO VECCHIO
MUSEUM
P. della Signoria
055 27 68 465
www.palazzovecchio-museoragazzi.it
So when was the last time you exercised? Remember those beautiful panoramas of Florence with the Duomo rising above all else? If you crawl two staircases and 233 steps to the very top of the tower, you can also make some pictures of your own. But if a pretty view from a high place is just too mainstream, there’s a still a museum below—a potluck dinner of ceiling paintings, a fleur-de-lis room that might as well have belonged to Louis XIV, and a room walled with yellowing maps of the world. One of the highlights is the Room of the 500s, which features worryingly aggressive/erotic statues for a room that used to hold a political council. Finally, castle mystery lovers can call ahead and book a Secret Passages tour.
The huge building in P. della Signoria. Activities and tours with costumed actors available; call for times. Museum €6.50, ages 18-25 and over 65 €4.50. Tower €6.50. Museum and tower €10. Tours €2. Museum open Oct-Mar M-W 9am-7pm, Th 9am-2pm, F-Su 9am-7pm; Apr-Sept M-W 9am-midnight, Th 9am-2pm, F-Su 9am-midnight. Tower open Oct-Mar M-W 10am-5pm, Th 10am-5pm, F-Su 10am-5pm; Apr-Sept M-W 9am-9pm, Th 9am-2pm, F-Su 9am-9pm.
Santa Maria Novella
MUSEO DI FERRAGAMO
MUSEUM
P. Santa Trinita 5r
055 33 60 456
The shoes that you can see here (and in theory buy, if you can possibly afford them) are right at the entrance. For a more worthwhile experience, head deeper into the basement to the actual museum. Ferragamo was like the Leonardo da Vinci of shoes: he brought anatomy, chemistry, and engineering into the creation of footwear. The shoe molds of famous people might make you feel like Bigfoot, and Ferragamo’s elegant designs may make your own shoes feel clunky and out of place. It’s okay if it’s a little over your head—you’re on vacation now, so just enjoy the fact that you’re in a museum about footwear.
Enter at P. Santa Trinita on the side of the building that faces away from the river €6, under 10 and over 65 free. Ticket proceeds fund scholarships for young shoe designers. 1st and 2nd rooms are permanent; the rest of the exhibits change annually. Open daily 10am-7:30pm.
MUSEUM, PALAZZO
P. degli Strozzi
055 26 45 155
While this may seem like yet another old palace, no more impressive than any of the others, it isn’t the seen-one-seen-’em-all Renaissance decor that makes Palazzo Strozzi worth visiting. The Center for Contemporary Culture Strozzina, which produces recent and contemporary art exhibits in the palace’s halls, is the main draw here. Exhibitions on different themes come regularly and often with a sweet interactive bonus: touch everything you’ve longed to touch on small replicas of famous statues. The programming changes regularly, so check the website or stop by if you want to shake a little 21st-century dust into Florence’s 15th-century aesthetic.
West of P. della Repubblica. Prices and hours vary; check website for details.
BASILICA DI SANTA MARIA NOVELLA
CHURCH
P. Santa Maria Novella
055 21 92 57
www.chiesasantamarianovella.it
If you’re only going to bother with one of the non-Duomo churches, consider making it this one. Between the checkered floor and plethora of 3D figures, this church could be a giant’s chessboard, and in the morning or early evening, sunlight streaming through the stained glass may remind you of last night’s disco. Upon entering the church, you’ll see a fresco of God doing the Titanic pose with Jesus on the cross. Do you notice anything strange about this picture? If God is standing on that back platform, how could he be leaning far enough forward to be touching Jesus in the front? Rather than believe that Masaccio could have made such a salient perspective error, some art historians argue that this is symbolic of God’s capacity to be everywhere at once. Venture farther to walk in the courtyard and an additional museum, but mind your dress and manner—it’s a working church.
Just south of the train station; you can’t miss it. Enter through the P. Santa Maria Novella entrance. €5; over 65 €3.50; visitors with disabilities, children under 5, and priests free. Open M-Th 9am-5:30pm, F 11am-5:30pm, Sa 9am-5pm, Su and religious holidays 1-5pm.
San Lorenzo
MEDICI CHAPELS
MUSEUM
P. Madonna degli Aldobrandini 6
055 23 88 602
The Medici Chapels would be the perfect setting for a Christopher Nolan movie. The dark Cappella Principe hovers over the sky and guards six mighty-looking tombs of Medici rulers. The New Sacristy is smaller and generally white, with an unfinished tomb (we’ll forgive its designer, a fellow named Michelangelo, who left for the excitement of Rome). Curious visitors should peek behind the altar to find his pencil sketches on the walls, left over from the unfinished frescoes.
It’s the roundish building to the right of Basilica di San Lorenzo. Likely visit length 30min. tops €9, EU citizens ages 18-25 €4.50, EU citizens under 18 and over 65 free. Open daily 8:15am-4:50pm. Last entry 4:20pm. Closed 1st, 3rd, and 5th M and 2nd and 4th Su each month.
BASILICA DI SAN LORENZO
CHURCH
P. San Lorenzo
055 21 66 34
www.basilicasanlorenzofirenze.com
The oldest church in Florence was born in 393 and became a grown-up in 1461. Now, it seems, it’s ready to retire. Still, it’s hard to have too much holiness, even when people come to have lunch on the stairs and bargain over leather items under the walls. Inside, the church emits an almost homey and welcoming vibe and features dramatic paintings (never has the Crucifixion looked so epic). The adjusted Biblioteca Medicea Laurenziana has a wide collection of manuscripts for additional €3.
In P. San Lorenzo, just a little north of the Duomo €5, under 11 free. Open M-Sa 10am-5pm, Su 1:30-5pm.
MUSEUM
V. Cavour 1
055 27 60 340
This palazzo argues once again that there was and is nothing more important for Italian rulers than art. Rooms and courtyards on the ground floor host modern sculpture installations, while the halls upstairs exhibit their own walls and ceilings, all splattered with some pretty cool pictures here and there.
From San Lorenzo you can see the back of the huge brown palace. Enter from the reverse side on V. Cavour €7, ages 6-12 €4, people with disabilities and their assistants free. Open daily 9am-6pm. Ticket office closes at 5:30pm.
San Marco
GALLERIA DELL’ACCADEMIA
MUSEUM
V. Ricasoli 60
055 23 88 612
www.uffizi.com/accademia-gallery-florence.asp
Leonardo da Vinci once said that Michelangelo’s figures resemble “a sack full of walnuts,” but in a classic size comparison, whose masterpiece comes up a tad short? At an easy 17ft., it’s no wonder the David can’t find any robes in his size. Do you see those veins on his hand? The guy’s a beast. Four unfinished statues by Michelangelo share David’s hall, trapped in the remaining block of marble like Han Solo encased in carbonite. You may understand on an intellectual level that the master’s statues are carved from a single piece of marble, but seeing these unfinished works (which go by The Slaves) drives it home. One man. A bunch of chisels. One big rock. If you’ve saved room for dessert after staring amorously at the David, head to the right of the entrance for a musical instrument gallery. In the next room on the left, you may notice the adored gnomish son about to pick his nose, or, we don’t know, the enormous model of The Rape of the Sabine Women. Past the David gallery, on the left, is a 19th-century workshop overflowing with sculpted heads and busts. Upstairs, you’ll see Jesus’s face more times than you’ve seen your own mother’s. But, at the very least, you will be one of a few who make it there. Right before the exit to the street, glance to the right to see the large photo of people frozen and staring at David.
It’s worth noting that visiting the Accademia generally won’t take more than an hour. Bear that in mind when weighing the choice between paying extra for a reservation or waiting in a line that lasts far longer than the time you’ll spend in the actual museum.
Line for entrance on V. Ricasoli, off of P. San Marco. Make reservations at the Museo Archeologico, the Museo di San Marco, or the Museo del’Oficio. The non-reservation line is shortest at the beginning of the day. Try to avoid the midday cruise ship excursion groups. €11, EU citizens ages 18-25 €5.50, art students and EU citizens under 18 or over 65 free. Reservations €4 extra. Open Tu-Su 8:15am-6:50pm. Last entry 6:20pm.
MUSEO DI SAN MARCO
MUSEUM
P. San Marco 3
055 23 88 608
Florence is hardly lacking in religious artwork, but Museo di San Marco packs in more than most. The themes may become repetitive, but the artistic importance of the works is impressive. The entrance courtyard features barely-there frescoes and some portraits that prove people had bad picture days before Facebook, too.
Upstairs you’ll find monk cells, each with a personal fresco—from a Jesus that never minds bleeding to tranquil saints. Imagine living here for 40 years, copying manuscripts. Now compare the size of these rooms to your dorm room and be grateful that you only have to live in a closet for four years. Then look at Fra Angelico’s famous fresco, The Annunciation, and imagine what it would be like if an angel arrived to announce that you were about to experience an unplanned pregnancy. The gallery on the right goes into the grinding details of copying manuscripts and has books on display, in case you wanted an even more in-depth lesson on how much it would stink to be a monk back then.
Located on the north side of the piazza. Approximate visit time: 30min. €4, EU citizens ages 16-25 €2. Closed 2nd and 4th M and 1st, 3rd, and 5th Su of each month. Last entry 30min. before close. Open M-F 8:15am-1:50pm, Sa 8:15am-4:50pm, Su 8:15am-7pm.
Santa Croce
Santa Croce is a little out of the way of the main attractions, but its scattered sights are some of Florence’s most memorable.
SYNAGOGUE OF FLORENCE
SYNAGOGUE, MUSEUM
V. Luigi Carlo Farini 6
055 23 46 654
This beautiful building definitely doesn’t fade into the surrounding Florentine architecture. Its conspicuousness was a bold choice: when it was built, the Jewish population still lived in a walled ghetto in the city center, and most synagogues were designed to blend in to avoid drawing attention to the community. Constructed in 1868, it’s young by Florentine standards but has still managed to have quite a life. The Nazis used it as their headquarters during the occupation of the city, and when they evacuated, they rigged the temple to explode. Somehow, all but one of the bombs failed to detonate, which is why the building is still standing today. The beauty of its exterior is matched by the abstract and colorful geometric patterns of the interior, making it so different from other places of worship in the city that you’ll wish you didn’t have to leave your camera behind the metal detector at the entrance.
From the Basilica di Santa Croce, walk 7 blocks north on V. dei Pepi. Turn right onto V. dei Pilastri and left onto V. Luigi Carlo Farini. Yarmulkes required and provided. Check bags and cameras at lockers before entering €6.50, ages 6-14 and students 15-24 €5, under 6 and disabled free. Cash only. Open M-F 10:30am-3pm, Su 10:30am-5:30pm.
BASILICA DI SANTA CROCE
CHURCH
P. Santa Croce 16
055 24 66 105
This enormous basilica has more celebrities than the Academy Awards. They happen to have been dead for hundreds of years, but no matter. Machiavelli lies in a chilling and understated tomb, Rossini under a subtle decoration of treble clefs and violin bridges, and Galileo with a globe and etching of the solar system. Michelangelo’s tomb explodes with color and features a painting of the statue he’d intended for his final resting place. Dante’s tomb is just gray, but it holds some inordinately large statues. You’ll even find Marconi, inventor of the radio, here. The complex also includes exhibits, cloisters, and gardens, which are full of dead people of the less famous variety.
Take Borgo dei Greci east from P. della Signoria €5, ages 11-17 €3, under 11 and disabled free. Combined ticket with Casa Michelangelo €8. Audio tour €5. Open M-F 9:30am-3:30pm, Sa-Su 1-5:30pm.
West Oltrarno
The major sights of West Oltrarno are all condensed into the enormous Palazzo Pitti. It’s not hard to find the complex: just cross Ponte Vecchio and walk until you reach the very obvious palazzo. The Palazzo Pitti museums are grouped into two ticket combos. Ticket One gets you into Galleria Palatina, Galleria d’Arte Moderna, and Apartamenti Reali. Ticket Two is for the Boboli Gardens, Bardini Gardens, Museo degli Argenti, Galleria del Costume, and Museo della Porcellana. Overall, if you’re choosing one ticket combo over the other, we recommend Ticket Two.
BOBOLI GARDENS
GARDENS
The Boboli Gardens feel like a cross between Central Park and Versailles. Imagine you’re a 17th-century Medici strolling through your gardens—but don’t imagine your way into a corset, ladies, because the gardens are raked at a surprising incline. They’re easily large enough for you to hide from the inundating heat or finally get a tan while enjoying the green, green grass. Head uphill from the palace for the porcelain museum and a stunning view of the valley, where the city’s packed red buildings give way to sprawling monasteries and trees. Farther from the main routes, statues stand mossy and cracked, but it’s more fun to explore a place that seems slightly forgotten. As with any gardens, this one is most fragrant and lovely right after the rain.
Ticket 2.
MUSEUM
www.uffizi.florence.it/palatina
Gold and statues and paintings of gold and statues cover every possible inch of this ridiculously ornate gallery. The permanent collection is housed in rooms named not for displays but for the ceiling art of figures like Saturn and Apollo. The quirkiest object in the collection sits alone in a small chamber between the Education of Jupiter and Ulysses rooms—it belonged to Napoleon and proves that great conquerors come in small bathtubs.
Ticket 1.
GALLERIA DEL COSTUME
MUSEUM
www.uffizi.firenze.it/musei/costume
We assure you: this isn’t just more Medici clutter. You can relax now. Instead, the fashions displayed here stretch all the way into the modern day. Try guessing which dress belongs to which time period, and you might be surprised at how difficult it is to guess correctly. If you do happen to be hankering for some an overly indulgent dose of the Medici, the one permanent display features the actual burial clothes of several dead Medici—these pieces were torn from their rotting corpses and preserved for your viewing pleasure. You’re welcome.
Ticket 2.
MUSEO DEGLI ARGENTI
MUSEUM
This museum is a pirate’s dream. The treasure map is simply a sign that says, “To the Treasure.” Visiting Museo degli Argenti is like wandering through a painted jewelry box. There are no pure chunks of gold here, but lavish rings, minute ivories, precious jewels, dazzling crowns, and Chinese porcelain are booty enough.
Ticket 2.
APARTAMENTI REALI
MUSEUM
The back end of the Galleria Palatina features a few preserved rooms of the palace that managed to evade the museum invasion of sculptures, china stalls, and extra paintings. You can practically see lords nonchalantly strolling ahead of you through the marble columns and chandeliers as they chatter about some fresco or another. By the end, you’ll definitely wish these apartments were listed in the Accommodations section of this book.
Ticket 1.
GALLERIA D’ARTE MODERNA
MUSEUM
055 23 88 616
www.uffizi.firenze.it/musei/artemoderna
Only in Florence could people define “modern art” as stuff that predates the French Revolution. This gallery begins in the 1780s, when art was no longer just for dukes, but for nobles, too. Talk about progress! The focus then moves toward 19th-century Naturalism as the motifs shift to motion, countrysides, and social scenes. It’s a good palate cleanser to keep you alert as you make your way through these gilded rooms full of gods and angels—we promise you won’t see any Madonna and Child renditions here.
Ticket 1.
MUSEUM
www.uffizi.firenze.it/musei/porcellane
It would seem weird to climb to the very top of the Boboli Gardens to check out a china exhibition, but you’ll do it anyway for the sake of cool alleys and panoramic views. Plus, it turns out that whoever spent centuries amassing this collection of dishware really knew what he or she was doing. Even if you tune out all the floral plate motifs, there are some amazingly intricate painted scenes, including one that depicts lords and ladies milling in the garden in outlandishly fancy getups.
At the highest point of the Boboli Gardens. Just keep walking up. Ticket 2.
East Oltrarno
You haven’t seen Florence until you’ve seen it from the Piazzale Michelangelo. You’ll find an extensive network of designated jogging routes and a number of small, lesser-known churches and sights amid the area’s greenery. Some less typical gems, like the Bardini museum, await the determined explorer in East Oltrarno’s residential area.
PIAZZALE MICHELANGELO
PANORAMIC VIEWS
“I climbed all the way to the top of the Ple. Michelangelo, and all I see is a parking lot, some tourist stalls, and an oxidized David reproduction,” you may say in lament. But then you’ll turn around. Suddenly, as Florence unfold all around you in stunning clarity, you won’t care how many cars are behind you sharing the same view. If you stick around for the nighttime city lights, you may even begin to understand why the alien-colored David likes hanging out here so much.
From pretty much any bridge, bear east along the river until you reach P. Guiseppe Poggi, where the base of the steps is located. If you’re not wearing walking shoes, take bus #12 or 13. Free.
FOOD
Florence’s cuisine is typical Tuscan fare: endless combinations of meat, olive oil, truffles, and (of course) pasta. Rustic trattorias are ubiquitous, and the good news is that you can’t really go wrong with any of them. The only thing to note is the sneaky cover charge for table service, often tucked under a pushpin or typed in tiny font at the bottom of the menu. Get your cappuccino or latte macchiato fix before noon—coffee after noon in Italy is such a faux pas that some waiters may even refuse to serve it. Finally, as Florence claims to be the birthplace of gelato, it’s totally acceptable to eat some every day that you’re here, even if you’re staying for the next five years.
The Duomo
The places in Piazza del Duomo offer some great deals, making it a good spot for a bigger meal. If you want quick food, though, skip the square’s overpriced snack bars and venture a few blocks farther.
VESTRI CIOCCOLATO D’AUTORE
GELATERIA $
P. Gaetano Salvemini 11
055 23 40 374
If there was a contest of collecting adjectives, this place would hoard all the sweetest, nicest, and cutest words available. Guys, bring your dates here. Girls and gelato connoisseurs, simply come. Nowhere else in Florence can you get artisanal gelato in flavors such asdark chocolate and Earl Grey or white chocolate with wild strawberries. It’s luxury for dirt cheap, pals.
From the Duomo, take V. Proconsolo south from the Duomo and turn left onto Borgo degli Albizi. Gelato from €1.80. Cash only. Open daily 10:30am-8pm.
RISTORANTE $$
P. del Duomo 29/30r
055 21 13 48
This is a trattoria that finally interpreted international cuisine the right way! That is to say that they’ll put chicken on your salad and turkey in any panini option if you’re longing for dishes that will remind you of American fast-ish food. For the most homesick, there’s even a sandwich box option with French fries and a salad (€5). All of the above does not cancel the fact that it’s located right by the Duomo and serves nice Italian food, too.
On the north side of P. del Duomo. Bruschetta, salad, spaghetti/lasagna, and wine €10. Takeout panini €3. Open daily noon-11pm.
LITTLE DAVID
RISTORANTE $
V. dei Martelli 14r
055 23 02 695
Little David’s crowds are smaller than the big David‘s, making it a great spot to drop by to refuel and connect to the free Wi-Fi. Be sure to ask about the student special (pizza or pasta and a soft drinks (€7), as it’s listed separately from the main menu.
Just north of the Duomo, on the right. Pizza €5.50-12. 0.5L wine €4.90. Open daily noon-1am.
Piazza Della Signoria
Considering that this area teems with tourists of the well-heeled variety, there is still a surprising number of diverse, budget-friendly eateries. Good rule of thumb: the farther north or east of the Uffizi you go, the better off you are. This is also the place to find the city’s best panini.
I DUE FRATELLINI
SANDWICHES $
V. dei Cimatori 38r
055 239 60 96
This open stall with an overhang and no seating dates to 1875, yet it still manages to draw crowds thanks to local wines, the tantalizing smell of panini, and the crowd psychology of seeing everyone else outside. We recommend panini #1 or #15 if the sight of endless cheap wine (from €1) still leaves you hungry.
Come to the junction of V. dei Cimatoriand and V. dei Calzauoli; the stall is on the left. Sandwiches €2.50. Open daily 9am-7pm.
DA VINATTIERI
SANDWICHES $
V. Santa Margherita 4r
055 29 47 03
With piles of bacon and salami in front of you at the stall or hanging from the ceiling and with lumps of fresh goat cheese laid out before you, the sandwich possibilities here seem endless. Indeed, they are. Add nutella in your panini? Why not! There is a huge jar at the counter for those who love food experiments. Otherwise, it’s cheap, tasty, varied, and custom made on request.
Across the alley from Casa di Dante, so just follow the signs for that attraction. Follow V. del Corso and take a right just before Lush. Panini €3.50. Tripe €5. Open daily 10am-8pm.
FESTIVAL DEL GELATO
GELATERIA $
V. del Corso 75r
055 29 43 86
Whether the owners expect customers to dance with happiness as soon as they try this gelato remains a mystery. But in case you want to, the place comes prepared with glowing neon lights and thrusting party music. As if that’s not enough, there’s even a multi-colored dance floor on the ceiling—although the gelato here will have you jumping for joy even without the help of the decor.
V. del Corso is east, off of P. della Repubblica. Look for the neon—you can’t miss it. Gelato from €1.80. Open Tu-Su 10am-12:30pm.
O’VESUVIO
PIZZERIA $
V. dei Cimatori 21r
055 28 54 87
If you go to the gym, tan, do laundry daily, have an “I heart Vinnie” tattoo on your neck, and are still living in 2010, you might need a therapist. But you also won’t want to miss the pizzeria where your favorite fist bumpers worked during the Florence season. For those who couldn’t care less about Jersey Shore, it’s actually really great pizza.
1 block west of the Baia on V. dei Cimatori; the restaurant is on the left. Pizza €5. T-shirt €10. Open daily 11am-10:30pm.
Santa Maria Novella
Pizzerias, cafes, and kebab shops abound near the train station and church. This is a good neighborhood to find a cheap bite to eat, but look elsewhere for a sit-down meal.
BISTROT PANGIE’S
CAFE $
V. del Parione 43/45R
055 29 54 39
With so many curious things filling its interior, Bistrot Pangie’s makes you feel as if you’re eating in a gift shop. But looking at all the clutter might as well occupy your mind, since you won’t have to worry about the budget when you get your panini and a glass of wine for €3 during happy hour. The staff remains carefree by serving food on paper plates and never getting stuck with the dishes.
Right off P. Goldoni. Free Wi-Fi. Spaghetti alla carbonar €6.50. Open daily 11am-10pm. Happy hour daily 4-7:30pm.
RISTORANTE LA SPADA
TRADITIONAL $$
V. della Spada 62r
055 21 87 57
Roasting spits ooze an enticing scent at this to-go or sit-down locale for those who have worked hard and need some refueling. Meanwhile, slabs of meat and heaps of asparagus call your name from under a glass case. And there’s always free taxi service for those who find that they can’t walk after attacking the Bistecca alla Florentina (€30 per kg).
Near the corner of V. della Spada and V. del Moro. Mention the “free website after-dinner treat.” Primi €7.50-11. Roast meat from the spit €8.50-13.50. Grill menu €8.50-43. Open daily noon-3pm and 6-11pm.
50 ROSSO
CAFE $
V. Panzani 50r
055 28 35 85
It’s on that main street near the train station, and you know that those areas are always filled with overpriced, low-quality places ready to catch the hungry traveler at his most vulnerable. But any poor kitties dying from hunger are lucky fishes if they duck in here for a quick bite. This tiny cafe’s eclectic fare includes panini (€3), pizza (€3), and €1 espresso.
V. Panzani starts in the northeast corner of P. Santa Maria Novella, near the train station. Cappuccino €1.20. Cash only. Open daily 6:30am-midnight.
San Lorenzo
The Mercato Centrale contains a feast of lunch options, but venturing outside to nearby restaurants is no step down. For dinner, Via Nazionale is lined with standard-fare pasta and pizza that isn’t the cheapest in the area, but it gets the job done.
NERBONE
RISTORANTE $
P. del Mercato Centrale
055 21 99 49
Nerbone is the love child of a garage and a picnic. It has stood in a corner of the Mercato Centrale for over 100 years. Crowd around the counter to order whatever happens to be on offer, take your tray, and squeeze in with some locals to remind yourself how fantastic your Italian isn’t. A sign warns that tables are only for eating, so forget those autopsies you were planning on doing over lunch.
Enter Mercato Centrale from V. dell’Arte and go all the way to the right. Primi and secondi €4-9. House wine €3.50. Cash only. Open M-Sa 7am-2pm.
RISTORANTE $
V. de’ Ginori 56r
055 21 86 25
Buy homemade food (pasta, meats, or vegetables) priced by the kilogram from a glass case opposite a line of stools and a counter. Refuel your immune system with a plate of vegetables (€5.50) or fill up with a big plate of pasta and side of vegetables (€6.50), but be careful when attempting to pour the self-serve olive oil. If business is slow, the owner may try to guess your nationality.
From P. San Lorenzo, walk north up V. de’ Ginori for a few min. Takeout available. Primi €4-4.50. Meal combos €5.50-7.50. Open M-Sa 11am-9pm.
GELATERIA ALPINA
GELATERIA $
V. Filippo Strozzi 12r
055 49 66 77
No, you don’t have to walk all the way to Alps to get gelato here, even though that’s what Romans had to do when they wanted this treat. Still, those who want to try this award-winning ice cream will have to turn off the beaten and exhausted tourist path. While people behind the counter try to guess what is it that you want here, remember to check out the cakes and pastry. There are many delicious gelato places around Firenze, but only few, if any, offer the same selection of very cheap, savory, and fancy varieties.
One block north from P. Indipidienza. Gelato from €1.80. Pastries from €0.80. Open M-F6:45am-10pm, Su 8:13am-10pm.
I’BRINCELLO
TUSCAN $
V. Nazionale 110r
055 28 26 45
The battle between convenience and quality is over at last. May we present: takeaway homemade pasta! And for a reasonable price! The sit-down option is less exciting and more orange.
Just down V. Nazionale from the train station on the right. Primi €8-18. Secondi €9-20. Chianti from €4. Cover €1.50. Open daily noon-3pm and 7-11pm.
San Marco
There are lots of self-evidently cheap places near the Accademia if you want to grab something to snack on in the Botanic Gardens. Venture a few blocks farther for more pleasant sit-down options.
IL VEGETARIANO
VEGETARIAN $$
V. delle Ruote 30
055 47 50 30
The farther you step through the door and into this rabbit hole, the curiouser and curiouser this place gets. The calm and proper front room transforms into a bustling wonderland, and you’ll feel like Alice upon discovering the mad variety of vegetables available for custom salads (cakes are also available for your tea party). Once you go through the maze of placing an order, you can keep up with the uncommon nonsense and sit yourself in the peaceful bamboo courtyard. Or not so peaceful, if the neighboring yards happen to be kicking up a racket that day. At the very least, the food is too good to shelve this gem.
From V. Nazionale, look for a subtle wooden sign on the left. Gluten-free and vegan options. Primi €6-7. Secondi €8. Desserts €4. Open Tu-Su 12:30-3pm and 7:30pm-midnight.
GRAN CAFFÈ SAN MARCO
CAFE $
P. San Marco 11r
055 21 58 33
Don’t mind the rest of the world. Florence stands on three whales: pizza, gelato, and pastries. This place is an aggregator that combines them all for hungry tourists who can’t decide what to eat first. Enter from the side street, and it’s a cafeteria. Walk farther down to another side street entrance, and it’s cafeteria meets pastry place meets garden cafe. Avoid the table service and get self-service food cheap on the cheap. Pizza toppings range from French fries to a classic tomatoes and basil. For an endless selection of gelato flavors (from €2), peek to the left of the piazza entrance and make your own transformation into a whale complete.
Located at the south end of the piazza. Primi €4-4.80. Secondi €4.50-6.50. Open daily 8am-10pm.
RISTORANTE TRATTORIA ZÀZÀ
RISTORANTE $$
P. del Mercato Centrale, 26/r
055 21 54 11
If you have just scored the deal of the century by getting your hands on those leather-whatevers (or even if you didn’t but are still around Mercado Centrale), you can visit Zàzà for a meal. This place is slightly classier than other eateries in the area, but the quality makes up for the euro spent, especially if you are still in that shopaholic mood. While waiting for your special dish and house wine, you might marvel at the painted walls that parody Renaissance frescoes.
Northeastern corner of P. del Mercado Centrale. Primi from €7. House wine from €5. Table service €2.50. Open daily 11am-11pm.
Santa Croce
If you’re craving something a little different, look no further than Santa Croce, where cheap and late-night food options abound. There are even a few upscale establishments huddled around the Basilica di Santa Croce. We almost don’t want to spoil the fun you’ll have discovering this quirky and diverse area on your own—in fact, we’re tempted to just give you a world map and send you on a scavenger hunt to check off each country’s cuisine. Then again, it never hurts to have some options handy; here are a few spots to get you started.
THE OIL SHOPPE
SANDWICHES $
V. Sant’Egidio 22r
055 20 01 092
The Oil Snoppe has a minor issue of consistency. Signs and chalkboard keep slipping from “panini” to “sub” and vice versa. But while this place makes up its mind, nothing can stop customers from munching on…whatever you call it. There is self-service, so please return the basket after having a delicious #24.
From P. del Duomo, take V. dell’Oriuolo, turn right onto V. Folco Portiani then right onto V. Sant’Edigio. Sandwiches €3-4. Fries and drinks €2. Cash only. Open M-F 10am-7pm.
GELATERIA DEI NERI
GELATERIA $
V. dei Neri 9/11r
055 21 00 34
Being a Let’s Go researcher requires eating at a different gelateria each time in the quest of Florence’s very best. So why can’t we stop eating at this one? It might have something to do with the mousse-like semifreddo—try the tiramisu—or the insanely spicy Mexican chocolate, which we found too intense to finish.
From Ponte Grazie, head north on V. dei Benci and turn left onto V. dei Neri. Gelato from €1.50. Cash only. Open daily 9am-midnight.
BRAC
SANTA CROCE
V. dei Vagellai 18r
055 09 44 877
This chameleon of a place is the perfect daytime escape. You can spend a whole afternoon with a book or laptop while sampling delicious pie in the glass-walled courtyard. In the evening, the back room full of books, glass tables, and artsy placemats becomes one of the few quality vegetarian dinner spots in Florence. The front room is also a fully operational bar.
From Ponte alle Grazie, walk 2 blocks down V. dei Berci and turn left onto V. dei Vagellai. It’s a small, discreet door on the right just before the piazza. Free Wi-Fi; ask at bar for the code. Past €6-8. Dinner combo €12. Desserts €6. Beer from €3.50. Cover €1.50. Open M-Sa noon-midnight, Su 6pm-midnight.
CAFE $
V. Pietrapiana 7r
055 24 12 37
Take a number at this student-friendly rotisserie—the line is out the door during lunchtime. Patrons don’t seem to mind waiting to pick their meals from platters behind the counter. Order one of the 20 varieties of pizza and cram into the seats in the back. It’s even cheaper if you take it to go: you can get half a rotisserie chicken or a giant slab of eggplant parmigiana for just a few euro.
From Borgo Allegri, take a right onto V. Pietrapiana. Primi €5-9. Secondi €5-35. Pizza €5-7. Wine from €3.50 Open Tu-Su noon-2:30pm and 7-10pm.
RUTH’S
KOSHER, VEGETARIAN $$
V. Luigi Carlo Farini 2A
055 24 80 888
This welcoming restaurant by the synagogue caters to Florence’s Jewish community as well as local students. From the visitor drawings in the entryway to the bearded photos on walls, Ruth’s has its own unique ambience.
To the right of the synagogue. Primi €7-9. Secondi €10-24. Open daily noon-3pm, 7-10pm. Closed on Jewish holidays.
West Oltrarno
DANTE
RISTORANTE $$
P. Nazario Sauro 12r
055 21 92 19
Waiters and waitresses here do not read Dante’s poetry or re-enact scenes from Divine Comedy, but even if visitors hoped for a meal for their soul, they will still get a meal for their body. Under the watchful eyes of Dante and his beloved Beatrice, who adorn the walls of this establishment, make the most of the cheap menu by indulging in some of the least expensive fish and pizza in Florence.
A block south of Ponte alla Carraia, on the right. Fish €5-6. Pizza €6-9. Pasta €8-10. Open daily noon-1am; restaurant sometimes closes when it’s not lunch of dinner time.
LA SORBETTIERA
GELATERIA $
P. T. Tasso 11r
055 51 20 336
It’s a mystery how this place has managed to be in business since 1934 and still be free of tourist crowds. We won’t say it’s completely crowd-free, though, since locals line up here to buy homemade ice cream by the kilogram (€18). Don’t be shy: order as much gelato or as many frappes and semifreddos as you want (Let’s Go recommends the lemon and sage flavor). Take your treat to the shade of the park and enjoy while watching Italian teenagers having the soccer match of their lives.
Across the street from the eastern side of park. Gelato from €1.20. Open M-Sa 12:30-11:30pm, Su and holidays 11am-1pm and 3-11:30pm.
GUSTAPANINO
SANDWICHES $
V. dei Michelozzi 13r
333 92 02 673
A little brother of family-run restaurants Gusta Pizza and Gusta Osteria, Gustapanino tried hard to outdo its elder brothers. Whether or not it succeeded, it managed to score sweet outdoor seating right at P. Santa Trinita, where guests can chew on panini made with one of three bread options, all with a chiming fountain providing music in the background. If the sound of lapping water enchants you more than a sight of a candy bar excites a child, order to go and sit right on the water’s edge.
In P. Santo Spirito; facing away from the Santo Spirito church, it’s the 2nd building on the left. Focacce and piadine €3-4. Open Tu-Su 11:30am-3pm and 7-11pm.
GUSTA PIZZA
PIZZERIA $
V. Maggio 46r
055 28 50 68
Run by the same family as Gustapanino (see above), Gusta Pizza serves Neapolitan-style, thin-crust pizza. Eat on location for some great personal service—some travelers say that if they really like you, they may even shape your pizza into a heart. Order to go if you want something warm and cheesy to eat by the river or if the inside of the restaurant fills up with students and other people who had the same idea as you.
On the corner of V. dei Michelozzi and V. Maggio. Facing the Santo Spirito church, turn right. Look for it on the next corner, on the right. Pizza €4.50-8. Open Tu-Su 11:30am-3pm and 7-11pm.
East Oltrarno
In Piazza di Santa Felicita, there are a couple serviceable options for pit stops, including Bibo, Ristorante Celestino, and Snack Le Delizie. The eastern part of East Oltrarno is home to dinner gems frequented by locals, which means a lot less English on the menus.
L’HOSTERIA DEL BRICCO
RISTORANTE $$
V. San Niccolò 8r
055 23 45 037
Behind an unobtrusive entrance, this gorgeous space with brick arches, flowers, and stained glass over the door is well worth the cover. A suit of armor stands casually on the side as L’Hosteria’s most steadfast patron. The smell will kick start your appetite, and the meat or pasta from the handwritten menu will indulge all your senses.
Cross Ponte alla Grazie and turn left onto Lungarno Serristori. After 3 blocks, turn right onto V. Lupo, then left onto V. San Niccolò. Cover €2.50. Primi €7. Secondi €12-15. Open daily for lunch at noon and dinner from 7:30pm-late.
NIGHTLIFE
Florence specializes in laid-back nightlife rather than the dance-until-dawn variety. We know this may be hard for under-21s recently unleashed in Europe and looking to booze-cruise, but if you come here with the go-hard-or-go-home mentality, you may end up sorely disappointed. Instead, drink wine and mingle by the river, fall in love with the concept of aperitivo, and chill in piazze that are full of students. Still, from the hilariously huge selection of Irish pubs to a number of chic venues that turn more club-like as the night goes on, you should be able to find an ambience that suits your intensity level. During major sporting events and festivals, the streets fill with people and spill with wine. If you’re really serious about clubbing, you should think about taking a taxi to larger venues outside the city proper.
The Duomo
This isn’t exactly a traditional nightlife area. You’ll find a couple of bars right by the Duomo, but you’ll be better off venturing into other neighborhoods. When the weather is beautiful and the town is particularly crowded, people hang out on the Duomo steps all night.
SHOT CAFE
BAR
V. dei Pucci 5
055 28 20 93
Like a bold and deviant teenager, Shot Cafe turns everything upside down. Vinyls serve as decor for the ceiling, and guitar balloons float throughout the bar. While American pop music from different decades fills the air, the young crowd mingles about. The best part is that this place won’t slam you with a tough exchange rate—here, the dollar and the euro are one in the same, so party on, you economically recessed Americans.
A block north of the Duomo. Free Wi-Fi. Beer €3.50; pitchers €10. 10 shots for €19. More expensive in winter. Open daily 6:30pm-2am.
ASTOR CAFE
BAR
P. del Duomo 20r
055 23 99 318
Astor is like your favorite pair of jeans that works for both morning errands and a night at the club. In the morning, it’s one of the few places where you can get a proper English breakfast. At night, blasting music adds to the wall projectors that flash arsty clips across the bar. Whether you start with breakfast and come later to party or start with the party and stay out till breakfast, Astor has you covered.
