On the northeast side of the piazza. Beer €5. Cocktails €7. 1L of whatever’s on tap €10. 
Open daily 9am-1am. On the northeast side of the piazza. Beer €5. Cocktails €7. 1L of whatever’s on tap €10. Open daily 9am-1am.
Piazza Della Signoria
At night, this area lights up with bars and fills with wandering groups of students. For a range of options in a short stretch, try Via dei Benci, between P. Santa Croce and the river; Moyo is modern and trendy, the Red Gartello’s karaoke entrance looks like the tunnel of love, and pubby Kikuya offers sandwiches and Dragoon Strong Ale. Piazza della Signoria, Piazza Della Repubblica, and Ponte Vecchio are other excellent places to hang out with a beer—get one to go from one of the local bars for some DIY nightlife.
MOYO
BAR
V. dei Benci 23r
055 24 79 738
A sophisticated young crowd lounges in Moyo’s modern black chairs. Candles and colorful disco lights that shine through a chandelier give this place a surreal, smoky atmosphere with an undulating beat.
Just off P. Davanzati. Drinks €5-8. Buffet free. Open M-Th 8am-2am, F-Sa 8am-3am, Su 8am-2am. Lunch noon-5pm. Sushi aperitivo W 7-10:30pm. Every W Royal Party DJ set 10:30pm-late; drinks €5 with Erasmus card. Every Th free Tappafissa with D&B and electronic DJs; drinks €7.
AMADEUS
PUB
V. dei Pescioni 3
055 28 17 09
Amadeus attracts a healthy young crowd that is not too male-heavy for a pub. The genre changes nightly between happy music, house, R&B, reggae, and hip hop.
Just off P. Davanzati. Beer €6. 3 drinks for €10. Open daily 7pm-2:30am.
THE OLD STOVE
IRISH PUB
V. Pellicceria 2r
055 28 46 40
Hey look, it’s another Irish pub! Which, of course, actually means American, because Irish people know better than to go to Florence to drink. But the inside lighting is merciful, so just close your eyes, drink you beer, and think of Ireland. The soccer match board indicates the Old Stove’s rowdy fan days.
Walk to the side of P. della Repubblica that doesn’t have the carousel and look down the street to the left. Pints €6, happy hour €4. Mixed drinks €7. Open M-Th noon-2am, F-Sa noon-3am, Su noon-2am. Happy hour M-Th 5-8pm.
TWICE
CLUB
V. Giuseppe Verdi 57r
348 47 72 096
Mostly sweaty guys, half-hearted dancing, and colored lights, Twice is the sort of place for clubbing when you don’t feel like making a big production out of it. This cover-free club is a favorite among drunk students, people with no other club ideas, and Italian men on the prowl. The weird mix of music should have you giggling every time some forgotten hit from eighth grade plays. There’s also a booth where people get hot and heavy and a fairly arbitrary VIP area in plain view—if you get waved in, just take the free drinks and roll with it.
From the Duomo, head east on V. Oriuolo, then right onto V. Giuseppe Verdi. Beer €5. Mixed drinks €9. Open daily 9pm-4am.
In the evening, the streets of Santa Maria Novella are alive with youth. There are some stellar nightlife options, but in this area, it’s best to choose a destination and stick to it rather than bar hop due to cover fees, distance, difference of style, or some combination of those. If you’re trekking out to Central Park, be smart, pull a group together, and set aside funds for a cab home.
SPACE ELECTRONIC DISCOTEQUE
CLUB
V. Palazzuolo 37
055 29 30 82
Do you wish you could go clubbing at Epcot? Then join the happy young crowd around the aquarium bar in this conveniently located, space-age dance hall. Everyone joins in with whoever’s blowing up the small karaoke stage. Meanwhile, the DJ upstairs rains techno down on you like a robot space god. If the bouncer waves you in, don’t be fooled into thinking you got a free entrance—you’ll pay the steep cover (€16) when you leave. Special events like guest bands and foam parties are extensively advertised on posters. The club’s location means it’s one of the few in the area that won’t require you to take a cab home. And it’d be easy to find a company to share one, since the crowd is dominantly foreign and touring.
From the river, take V. Melegnano to V. Palazzuolo, and turn right. Cover €16 with a drink included, students €10. Shots €3. Mixed drinks €6.50. Open daily 10pm-4am (or less, depending on a day of the week and business).
THE JOSHUA TREE PUB
PUB
V. della Scala 37r
01 23 45 67 89
Florence must be madly in love with its tourists because even the smallest places make sure that Americans have somewhere to go when they are inevitably homesick. Smaller than similar places in town, the Joshua Tree feels cozier and less deserted in the early evening hours. Launch your evening itinerary here or chill with the international regulars that often cluster on weeknights.
On corner of V. Benedetta. Pints €5. Open daily 4pm-2am. Happy hour 4-9:30pm.
PUBLIC HOUSE 27
BAR
V. Palazzuolo 27r
339 30 22 330
This alternative music bar emits a sanguine glow and a cloud of smokers from early on in the evening. What it holds in, however, is an endless amount of rock bands, new and old, staring down the newcomers. If you aren’t put off by the scary face stuck on the door, brave the red interior for €3 pint.
On the corner of V. della Porcellana. Pint €3. Open M-Sa 5pm-2am, Su 2:30pm-2am.
San Lorenzo
MOSTODOLCE
BAR
V. Nazionale 114r
055 23 02 928
“In wine there is wisdom, in beer there is strength, in water there is bacteria.” This is how the Mostodolce menu greets its patrons—in English, by the way, thanks to the influx of American tourists in the summer months. Come to watch a sporting event with big crowds, or just to drink artisanal beers brewed in Prato, and ponder the random duck above the bar. Warning: pondering increases with alcohol consumption.
On the corner of V. Guelfa. House beer €3.50. Chianti €3.50. Panini €4. Hamburgers €5. Open daily 11am-2am. No table service 3:30-7:30pm.
DUBLIN PUB
BAR
V. Faenza 27r
055 27 41 571
If men in their 20s and 30s are your calling, they’re calling you from Dublin Pub. This little bar is great for some international mingling, but is not so popular with women or those under 20 (though, if you’re one of those, you can still have a good time). Also, the bar has purse hooks—score! Stick it out, because by the end of the night, an old man could be teaching you how to curse in Italian.
The far end of V. Faenza. Beer from €4. Cider €4.40. Pizza €5. Open daily 5pm-2am.
KITSCH THE PUB
BAR
V. San Gallo 22r
328 90 39 289
What do you expect from a place called “kitsch” if not red velvet and stained glass? During the low season, try to nab some of the alfresco seating and mix with locals to avoid the TV that blares Gwen Stefani.
Off V. Cavour. Shot €2. Beer from €4. Cocktails from €6. Open daily 5pm-3am.
THE FISH PUB
BAR
P. del Mercato Centrale 44r
055 26 82 90
While the ads for a “free crazy party” here every weekend night may seem slightly fishy, you might as well print the flyer on the website for discounts and a free shot. While you’re at it, capitalize on the free champagne glass for students on Thursdays and free champagne on Mondays for women. Once you’ve looted the area, grab a handy plastic cup from the exit and take your drink to go. As for the bar itself, downstairs is loud and lit up blue, while upstairs features a quieter lounge area, a license plate collection, and a distorted portrait of the queen of England.
Right out of Mercato Centrale. Rock music on Tu. Bring your own iPod on W. Latin music on Su. 5 shots for €5. Discount for students after 9pm. Open daily 4pm-4am. Happy hour 4-9pm.
San Marco
There is no nightlife in San Marco. Why drink and party when you have an early morning line to stand in for the Accademia? An abundance of religious paintings might be doing something to the area. However, there are still a few places you should visit if you are up for a quieter night and don’t mind meeting the locals.
THE CLUB HOUSE
BAR
V. de’ Ginori 6r
055 21 14 27
A curious place and a funky pill for terribly nostalgic Americans, this bar serves alcohol from dresser drawers under a theater-style chandelier while Nickelback and other American pop hits from a few years ago buzz in the air. Customers are often up to improvisation with their cocktails. In the midst of a number of quirky items (like colorful melted wax sculptures and random pieces of American football equipment), two flat screen TVs translate sports events.
Off V. dei Pucci. Free Wi-Fi. Bomb €3.50. Beer €5.50. Long drinks €6. Cocktails €7. Open daily 3pm-3am.
FINNEGAN IRISH PUB
IRISH PUB
V. San Gallo 123r
055 49 07 94
Another Irish pub! This one has outdoor seating, pub booths, dedicated screenings of soccer and rugby, and rugby paraphernalia on the walls. You know the drill: a good place for casually watching the game (whatever the game may be) and hanging with the regulars. Finnegan displays its international flair with an eclectic collection of currencies stuck behind the bar and a skull to remind you what happens when money and alcohol get along all too well.
North of P. San Marco. Shots from €3. Open M-F 4pm-midnight, Sa-Su 1pm-1am.
BAR DEI CAVALIERI
BAR
V. San Gallo 33r
389 51 30 554
Do you ever really need anything else but coffee, sandwiches, and beer? This snack bar has these three life essentials, and it’s enough to keep people dropping by for a quick drink or a longer stay at the outside tables until later hours. If you are staying in the area and love beer, ask for a stamp card (10 beers will get you one for free).
1 block northwest from P. San Marco. Open daily 7am-1am.
Santa Croce is the soul of Florence’s nightlife. If the street you’re on seems oddly quiet, just keep walking—the lively spots show up in unexpected pockets. Try Via dei Benci for a rich selection. On nice evenings, join the swarm of young people lounging and drinking in Piazza Sant’Ambrogio and Piazza Lorenzo Ghiberti.
LAS PALMAS
PIAZZA
Largo Annigoni
347 27 60 033
What seems like a perfectly ordinary piazza by day tranforms into a rowdy, beach-themed block party when evening rolls around. We’re talking palm trees, seafood, and straw screens right in the middle of Florence’s cobblestone streets. Performers grace the enormous stage with theater, dance, music, or some combination of the three, setting the mood for a whole piazza of merriment. Groups of students, families, and older folks cram into the scores of tables and pile up on the generous aperitivo buffet, and children compete at foosball and table tennis. If you think the place is rowdy on a regular night, wait until you come when that they’re projecting sporting events on the big screen.
Off of P. Ghiberti, in front of the La Nazione building. Check website for performance and screening schedule. Live music Tu-Su. Movie screenings M. Beer and wine €4. Cocktails €5. Aperitivo €5. Open daily 6pm-1:30am.
RED GARTER
BAR
V. dei Benci 33/35r
055 248 09 09
A place that claims to be the oldest American pub in Italy (since 1962) cannot be too local, but who cares if they borrowed all the right things from the US? During the day, this place is a steakhouse. When darkness falls, internationals blast the bar down with karaoke, live music, and beer pong on Tuesday nights.
From Ponte alle Grazie, follow V. dei Benci north. Events every night. Beer from €4. Cocktails €7.50. Open M-Sa 3:30pm-2am, Su 11am-2am. Kitchen closes 1am.
CAFFÈ SANT’AMBROGIO
BAR
P. Sant’Ambrogio 7r
055 24 77 277
Location is a life-saver for this bar, which tries hard to be fancy with its minimalistic (read: boring) interior. Young crowds flood this bar no matter what due to its location, and the drinks are always affordable.
The piazza is at the end of V. Pietrapiana. Wine €4-7. Cocktails €6-7. Open M-Sa 8:30am-2am. Aperitivo 6-9pm.
OIBÒ
BAR, LOUNGE
V. dei Benchi 53r
055 26 38 611
Florence’s casual, chic crowd comes here to sip drinks on the large outdoor patio and dance under the disco ball. As the night goes on, the DJ tends to break out the Italian hits, and you might witness a bar full of elegant locals belting along. This is a great spot for aperitivo on your way to the Teatro Verdi.
On the corner across from the Basilica di Santa Croce. DJ “After Beach Party” on Su. Beer €6. Cocktails €7.50-10. Open Apr-Nov daily 8am-2am. Aperitivo 6:30-9:30pm.
NAIMA
CAFE, BAR
V. dell’Anguillara 54
055 26 54 098
The subtle violet-and-stone bar area of Naima is a great place to start the night, while the lounge has couches and candlelight for an intimate feel. Here you’ll find lighthearted internationals and Euro-hipsters taking advantage of the affordable drinks.
From southeast of the Duomo, follow V. del Proconsolo south and turn right onto V. dell’Anguillara. Shot €3. Beer €5. Cocktails €7. Open daily 3pm-2am.
West Oltrarno has a good concentration of students, making it a lively and diverse evening locale, especially around the P. Santo Spirito. If you want to go dancing, you’ll have to go somewhere else.
VOLUME
BAR, MUSEUM
P. Santo Spirito 5r
055 23 81 460
There’s a museum in Florence that’s worth spending a night drinking at. And we don’t mean taking bravery shots while running away from a dinosaur. What we do mean is that this little museum of wooden sculptures and a library cafe magically turns into a popular bar at night. Let’s Go does not guarantee that the whole museum won’t come to life after midnight (depending on how many drinks you’ve had).
To the right of the Santo Spirito church, sandwiched between 2 larger establishments. Cocktails €5. Crepes €4-7. Open daily 9am-2am. Aperitivo 6-10pm.
LA DOLCE VITA
WINE BAR
P. del Carmine 6r
055 28 45 95
Trendy young adults with margarita glasses populate this happening, artsy bar. The bold interior hosts monthly photo shows as well as live Brazilian, jazz, or contemporary music every Wednesday and Thursday night. For travelers on a budget, break out that one nice outfit you brought, nab a spritz, and feast on the aperitivo buffet.
In P. del Carmine, by the Carmine church. Free Wi-Fi. Live music W-Th 7:30-9:30pm. Sprits €7. Open M-Sa 11am-3am, Su 6pm-2am. Aperitivo buffet 7:30-9:30pm. Kitchen open noon-3pm.
POP CAFE
BAR
P. Santo Spirito 18
055 21 74 75
Dim blue neon lightning, hipster-artsy pictures, and a quiet beat make Pop Cafe the least rowdy bar on the piazza. Pop is the ideal for those who do not have to be bouncing off the walls to be in a good mood or for those who long for a conversation that does not require shouting at the top of your lungs.
To the left of the Santo Spirito church. Beer, shots, and prosecco €4. Cocktails €6. Open daily 11:30am-2am.
ONE EYED JACK
BAR
P. Nazario Sauro 2
055 62 88 040
You shouldn’t have any trouble finding this Australian-run bar—a big painting of Jack in an eye patch spans the front shutter. It tries to look very wild for the international crowd, with blasting music and Marilyn Monroe gansta-style posters in the bathrooms. Live bands and international DJs come by many weekends; other nights, you can hit up the jukebox. This is a great spot for a pint and a bite.
Across the street from Gelateria La Carraia and Dante. Free Wi-Fi. Pints €3.50-6. Cocktails €6. Open daily 11am-2am. Kitchen open 11am-1am.
East Oltrarno
Far east of any part of Florence you’re likely to visit, East Oltrarno is where the locals go to party. Since they’re real people with real jobs, things tend to be most happening here on weekends. Investigate Piazza Giuseppe Poggi (at the base of the hill leading up to Ple. Michelangelo), Via San Niccolò, and Via dei Renai to get your game on.
JAMES JOYCE PUB
BAR
Lungarno Benvenuto Cellini 1
055 65 80 856
This enormous, comfortable bar (the oldest in Florence) is always filled with students for a reason. With foosball, literary kitsch on the walls, and a fun-loving local vibe, you hardly need quality beer to have a good time (though it helps, no doubt). Catch some air on a stroll by the river midway through your night. You don’t even have to step back inside to order another round of drinks—a window in the bar opens onto the patio.
On the western side of the traffic circle after the Ponte San Niccolò. Wine from €4.50. Bottled beer €5. Open daily until 3am. Aperitivo 7:30-10pm.
ZOE
BAR
V. dei Renai 13
055 24 31 11
The colorful outdoor seating and zebra decorations give this place an upbeat feel as it floods with 20- and 30-somethings indulging in Zoe’s renowned aperitivo. Take advantage of the extensive cocktail menu, grab an international newspaper, and relax.
Across the river from V. dei Benci. Cross Ponte alle Grazie, walk 1 block, and turn left onto V. dei Renai. Wine €7. Open M-W 8pm-2am, F-Su 8pm-2am.
ARTS AND CULTURE
Theater
Don’t be scared off because you assume performances will be in Italian; going to the theater can be one of the best evening experiences in Florence, and the fact that shows are often free is the icing on an already awesome cake. In the summer, the Bargello sometimes hosts site-specific productions in its courtyard, while temporary stages in the Piazza della Signoria host music and dance acts. If you’re here a bit longer, there are some worthy venues just outside town, like the Teatro Puccini, the Teatro Sotteraneo, and the Saschall.
TEATRO DELLA PERGOLA
SAN MARCO
V. della Pergola 18
055 22 641
This opera house has been around since 1656, and it’s understandable that anyone would want to retire at such a respectable age. However, this tough and elegant theater is still working, even though operas only pay a visit here during the Maggio Musicale Fiorentino festival. The rest of the time, you can enjoy a selection of about 250 drama productions each year from the comfort of plush red seats and gilded galleries. Old people don’t have time to bother with foreign languages, so it’s an impressive excuse to brush up on your Italian or choose a Shakespearian play you know too well to need a translation.
At the intersection of V. della Colonna and V. Nuova dei Caccini. Prices vary by performance, usually €15-30. Box office open M-Sa 9:30am-6:30pm.
Rock and Jazz
The rock and jazz venues in Florence attract lively crowds and tend to cost no more than the price of a drink—and any drink tastes sweeter when sipped to the sound of a sweet serenade. Big-name artists have been known to show up anywhere from the Teatro Verdi to small cafes, so keep your eyes peeled for posters.
LA CITÉ LIBRERIA CAFE
WEST OLTRARNO
Borgo San Frediano 21
055 21 03 87
When you look at a library cafe, it almost never is just a library cafe. For this, one books are merely a masquerade for the real thing: art and music. There’s an event almost every day, with everything from jazz to swing to blues to Balkan recitals making appearances. And when music isn’t playing, there’s a high chance that you’ll find a book presentation, an exhibition, or a play instead.
From Ponte alla Carraia, walk west on Borgo San Frediano. The library cafe spans 3 windows on the right. Beer €3. Open M-W 3pm-1am, Th-Sa 3pm-2am, Su 3pm-1am. Almost daily events 6:30-10pm.
SANTA MARIA NOVELLA
Borgo Ognissanti 42r
055 21 77 91
Live music and elegant suits fill this aperitivo destination every Tuesday, Saturday, or Sunday. On all the other days, you can still count on a strict diet of music to go with your cocktails and wine. For some reason, the tourist crowds haven’t discovered this gem yet, so, for your sake, please don’t tell them.
Go northwest on Borgo Ognissanti from Ponte alla Carraia. It’s on the right. Live music on Tu, Sa, Su. Cocktails from €7. Open daily 7pm-2am.
SHOPPING
Open-Air Markets
Open-air markets are some of the most authentic experiences Florence has to offer. Try the enormous food and clothing market in Parco delle Cascine (P. Vittorio Veneto, Off Vle. Fratelli Rosselli on the western edge of the city. Open Tu 7am-1pm), the flower market in Piazza della Repubblica (Open Th 10am-7pm), or the antique market at Giardini Fortezza Firenze. (Follow V. Faenza north as it becomes V. Dionisi. Open Sept-June every 3rd Su of the month.)
MERCATO CENTRALE
SAN LORENZO
P. del Mercato Centrale
This technically isn’t an outdoor market, but it’s chaotic enough to feel like one. At Mercato Centrale, you can find just about anything within the realm of food, from cheeses to spices to singing butchers. To stand out, stalls tack up random items (like a pair of striped purple and white balloon shorts) to their roofs or counters. You can also find unusually shaped pasta casually mixed in with the standard shapes: tortellini, spaghetti, penises, ravioli, striped farfale…Wait—striped farfale? If all this food ogling is making you hungry, some stalls in the center sell pizza and sandwiches by weight.
It’s the huge green-and-red building in the middle of all those sidewalk vendors. Open spring-fall M-Sa 7am-2pm; winter Sa 7am-2pm.
SAN LORENZO
SAN LORENZO
V. dell’Ariento
San Lorenzo’s market spans the entire length of V.dell’Ariento. Vendors actively try to sell you hats, scarves, journals, or souvenirs as you pass, regardless of your apparent interest level. If you’ve got an eye for quality, this is the place to buy some of that famous Florentine leather. Vendors are used to ignorant tourists paying full price, so don’t expect to shave more than a few euro off the price except through some hard-line bargaining. Since so many stalls have similar wares, you can always move on to the next one to get better prices.
Walking away from the station on V. Nazionale, V. dell’Ariento is on the right just across from the fountain.
Artisan Goods
FARMACEUTICA DI SANTA MARIA NOVELLA
SANTA MARIA NOVELLA
V. della Scala 16
055 21 62 76
This farmaceutica drowns you with the weight of its age (or it could be tantalizing smells of their brewed potions). The Santa Maria Novella monks have been bottling medicines in this museum-worthy space since the 13th century, but the “modern” pharmacy is straight from the Victorian age. Elixirs, perfumes, juleps, salts, spirits, waters, and protective oils are all available, displayed on shelving and sold in packaging that’s been updated very little over the course of the past century. Browse the colored bottles of essence of myrrh under a chandelier and fancy yourself a Victorian aristocrat for an afternoon.
At the corner of V. della Porcellana. Coming from P. Santa Maria Novella, turn right onto V. della Scala. Candle €10-50. 500ml liqueurs €50. Sun care from €20. Open daily 10:30am-7:30pm. In Aug, closes Sa at 1pm.
ALICE ATELIER: THE MASKS OF PROF. AGOSTINO DESSÌ
SAN LORENZO
V. Faenza 72r
055 28 73 70
Masks aren’t just quick and easy Halloween costumes—at Professor Agostino’s Dessì’s studio, they are a true art form. Here, you can find the perfect two-faced mask to express your split personality. Handmade masks of things you never imagined, from bionic metal-faced creatures to puzzle people, are as good as a museum visit. Highly involved in Florence’s art scene, Dessì has been making masks for world exhibitions since the ’70s and brought his daughter, Alice, into the family business in 1997. The shop offers mask-making courses and will happily direct you to nearby exhibitions.
From P. della Stazione, take V. Nazionale and turn left onto V. Faenza. Application form for mask-making courses can be found on the website. Masks from €50. 5-session course €500.
ESSENTIALS
Practicalities
• TOURIST OFFICES: Uffici Informazione Turistica has its primary office at Via Manzoni 16. (055 23 320 Open M-F 9am-1pm.) Other locations include Piazza Stazione 4 (055 21 22 45 Open M-Sa 8:30am-7pm, Su 8:30am-2pm), Via Cavour 1r (055 29 08 32 Open M-Sa 8:30am-6:30pm, Su 8:30am-1pm), and Borgo Santa Croce 29r. (055 23 40 444 Open Mar-Oct M-Sa 9am-7pm, Su 9am-2pm; Nov-Feb M-Sa 9am-5pm, Su 9am-2pm).
• CURRENCY EXCHANGE: Best and Fast Change has offices at V. dei Cerretani 47r (055 23 99 855) and Borgo Santa Lorenzo 16r. (055 28 43 91)
• ATMS: BNL (V. dei Cerretani 6) accepts Visa. Banca Toscana (V. dell’Ariento 18) accepts Mastercard.
• LUGGAGE STORAGE: At Stazione di Santa Maria Novella. ( By platform 16. 1st 4hr €4, 5th-12th hr. €0.60 per hr., €0.20 per hr. thereafter. Cash only. Open daily 6am-11:50pm.)
• LAUNDROMATS: Onda Blue. (V. degli Alfani 24 and V. Guelfa 221r Open daily 8am-10pm.)
• INTERNET: Internet Train can be found all over the city. For a central location, try Via dei Benci 36r. (055 26 38 555 www.internettrain.it From P. Santa Croce, turn left onto V. dei Benci. Wi-F €2.50-3 per hr. Internet €3-4.50 per hr. Open daily 10am-10:30pm.) Many restaurants and library cafes offer free Wi-Fi. Try BRAC. (V. dei Vagellai 18r 055 09 44 877 Open daily 10am-11pm.)
• POST OFFICES: Via Pellicceria 3. (055 27 36 481 South of P. della Repubblica. Open M-F 8:15am-7pm, Sa 8:15am-12:30pm.) Other locations include V. de Barbadori 37r (055 28 81 75), V. Pietrapiana 53 (055 42 21 850), V. de Barbadori 37r (055 28 81 75), and V. Camillo Cavour 71a (055 47 19 10).
• POSTAL CODE: 50100.
Emergency
• EMERGENCY NUMBER: 118.
• POLICE: Polizia Municipale. (24hr. non-emergency helpline 055 32 83 333) Help is also available for tourists at the mobile police units parked at V. dei Calzaioli near P. della Signoria and at Borgo Santa Jacopo in the Oltrarno, near Ponte Vecchio. The emergency Carabinieri number is 112.
• LATE-NIGHT PHARMACIES: Farmacia Comunale. (Stazione Santa Maria Novella 055 21 67 61 Open 24hr. Ring the bell 1-4am.) Farmacia Molteni. (V. Calzaioli 7r 055 28 94 90 Just north of P. della Signoria.) Farmacia all’insegna del Moro. (P. San Giovanni 20r 055 21 13 43 A little east of the Duomo.)
• HOSPITALS/MEDICAL SERVICES: Arcispedale Santa Maria Nuova is northeast of the Duomo and has a 24hr. emergency room. (P. Santa Maria Nuova 1 055 69 381) International Medical Service. (P. dell’Unita Italiana, 7 055 287383, 349 7319461 Open M-F 2-4pm.) Associazione Volontari Ospedalieri provides free medical translation. (055 42 50 126 www.avofirenze.it Open M 4-6pm, Tu 10am-noon, W 4-6pm, Th 10am-noon, F 4-6pm.) Tourist’s Doctor. (Instituto Prosperius, V. F.lli Rosselli 62 Firenze 338 89 41 809 24hr. medical assistance).
Getting There
How you arrive in Florence will be dictated by where you come from. Florence may have named its Amerigo Vespucci airport after the guy who in turn gave the Americas their name, but that doesn’t mean the city has any flights from the US. Those flying across the Atlantic will have to transfer at another European airport. If flying from within Europe, it will probably be cheaper for you to fly into the budget-airline hub that is Pisa Airport. Buses run regularly from Pisa Airport to Florence; they take just over an hour and cost abou €10. If coming from within Italy, you will most likely catch a train, which will bring you into Santa Maria Novella station. If traveling locally, buses may be useful.
By Plane
Aeroporto Amerigo Vespucci is Florence’s main airport. (V. del Termine 11055 30 615 main line, 055 30 61 700 for 24hr. automated service; www.aeroporto.firenze.it For lost baggage, call 055 30 61 302.) From the airport, the city can be reached via the VolainBus shuttle. You can pick up the shuttle on the departures side. ( Exit the airport to the right and pass the taxi stand. Drop-off is at Santa Maria Novella station. €5. 25min., every 30min., 6am-11:30pm.) A cab from the airport to the city center costs about €20.
By Train
Santa Maria Novella train station dominates the northwest of the city. (www.grandistazioni.it Open daily 6am-midnight.) You can purchase tickets from the fast ticket kiosks or tellers. There are daily trains from: Bologna (€25-36 40min., 2 per hr., 7am-11:26pm), Milan (€53 1¾hr., 1 per hr., 7am-9pm), Rome (€45 1½hr., 2 per hr., 8:30am-11:33pm), Siena €6.30 1½hr., 6 per hr., 5am-9:18pm), and Venice (€43 2hr., 2 per hr., 7:30am-7:30pm). For precise schedules and prices, check www.trenitalia.com.
By Bus
Three major intercity bus companies run out of Florence’s bus station. From Santa Maria Novella train station, turn left onto on V. Alamanni—the station is on the left by a long driveway. SITA (V. Santa Caterina da Siena 17 800 37 37 60 www.sitabus.it) runs buses to and from Siena, San Gimignano, and other Tuscan destinations. LAZZI (P. Stazione 4/6r 055 21 51 55 www.lazzi.it For timetable info call 055 35 10 61) buses depart from P. Adua, just east of the train station. Routes connect to Lucca, Pisa, and many other regional towns. CAP-COPIT (Largo Fratelli Alinari 10 055 21 46 37 www.capautolinee.it) runs to regional towns. Timetables for all three companies change regularly, so call ahead or check online for schedules.
The main thing that you should know is that Florence is a small city. Most visitors simply walk everywhere without any need for public transportation. This is ideal for the budget traveler, as you won’t rack up metro and bus fares like you do in many other European cities. And if you’re going to venture outside the compact city center, Florence has you covered.
By Bus
As the city’s only form of public transportation, Florence’s tiny orange buses are surprisingly clean, reliable, and organized. Operated by ATAF and LI-NEA, the extensive bus network includes several night-owl buses that take over regular routes in the late evenings. The schedule for every passing line is posted on the pole of each well-marked bus stop, complete with the direction the bus is going and a list of every stop in order. Most buses originate at P. Stazione or P. San Marco. Buses #12 and #13 run to the Ple. Michelangelo; bus #7 runs to Fiesole. You’re unlikely to need the buses unless you’re leaving the city center. You can buy tickets from most newsstands, ticket vending machines, or the ATAF kiosk in P. Stazione. (800 42 45 00 90min. ticket €1.20, €2 if purchased on board; for groups, there is carta argile for €10 that is equivalent to 10 tickets and can be used several times at once.) Stamp your ticket when you board the bus; you then have the length of time denoted by the ticket to re-use it. Be careful—if you forget to time-stamp your ticket when you board the bus (and can’t successfully play the “confused foreigner” card), it’s a min. €50 fine.
By Taxi
To call a cab, call Radio Taxi. (055 4390, 055 4499, 055 4242, or 055 4798). Tell the operator your location and when you want the cab, and the nearest available car will be sent to you. Each cab has a rate card in full view, and the meter displays the running fare, which is based on the distance traveled and any supplements charged. If you’re going far or are nervous, it never hurts to ask for an estimate before boarding. There are surcharges for Sundays, holidays, luggage, and late nights. Unless you have a lot of baggage, you probably won’t want to take a taxi during the day, when traffic will make the meter tick up mercilessly. At lunchtime, a 5min. ride from the Duomo to the Oltrarno will cost €10. Nevertheless, cabs are a manageable late-night option if you’re outside the city, and especially if you’re in a group. Designated cab stands can be found at P. Stazione, Fortezza da Basso, and P. della Repubblica. Cabscan also often be found at Santa Maria Novella.
By Bike
Most locals either ride a Vespa or cycle, and if you want to be one of them, there are many rentals around the city. However, keep in mind that while cycling is a great way to check out a longer stretch of the Arno’s banks or to cover a lot of territory in one day, locals usually ride the quiet, deserted streets. If you’re planning to bike to the sights, those routes are jam-packed with tourists; be ready to walk your bike most of the time. Mille E Una Bici (055 65 05 295 www.comune.firenze.it) rents bikes that can be picked up and returned at any of its four locations: P. Stazione, P. di Santa Croce, P. Ghiberti, and Stazione F.S. Campo Di Marte. Florence By Bike (V. San Zanobi 91r and 120/122r 055 48 89 92 www.florencebybike.it Open Apr-Oct daily 9am-7:30pm; Nov-Mar M-Sa 9am-1pm and 3:30-7:30pm) is another good resource. Staff will help renters plan routes, whether it’s an afternoon or a multi-day trip outside of town.
This is what Pisa has to offer: one tower, leaning; one budget airline hub; and three universities. That may not sound like much, but the tower is actually really cool, the airport is remarkably easy to get to, and you can thank the universities for the city’s many student-friendly bars. If Florentine nightlife left you doubting the Tuscan party scene, come to Pisa, where the cheap sangria will have you leaning at a 4.99° angle, too. Pisa’s wide streets make it feel more like a city than other Tuscan towns. If you’ve forgotten how to live with the heat after so many shady alleyways, a 20min. bus ride will take you to Pisa’s shoreline, where the plethora of swimmers belie the fact that you’re not actually allowed to swim.
ORIENTATION
Whether you arrive in Pisa by train or plane, you will enter the centro from the train station. The city knows why people visit, so street signs bearing the image of a leaning tower and an arrow are everywhere. When you leave the station, you’ll be in the southern end of the city. Take shop-lined Corso Italia straight ahead to reach the river, which is central to city life. Via Santa Maria will take you straight from the river to Piazza dei Miracoli.
SIGHTS
Walled in and covered with trim green grass, Pisa’s Piazza dei Miracoli is an island unto itself. True, the eager tourist crowds and relentless sun are free to barrage the square; even so, the clean-lined monuments maintain a sense of quiet grace—well, apart from that tall one in the back who can’t seem to stop falling over. Entrance to the piazza itself is free, and possibly the best part of Pisa is hanging out in the shadow of the tower, watching tourists direct one another on how to take the perfect Leaning Tower photo. Meanwhile, if you’re intent on scouring for sights beyond the square, Pisa offers the usual selection of grand old Italian churches, and everyday Pisa is at its prettiest along the Arno. The Opera della Primaziale Pisana sells tickets for all the monuments in the piazza. (050 83 50 11 www.opapisa.it Tower €18. Duomo free, but you need to pick up your ticket at the ticket office. Joint admission for non-leaning monuments: 1 monument €5, 2 monuments €7, 3 monuments €8, all 5 €9. Disabled visitors and 1 guest free. All monuments open daily June-Sept 8am-11pm; Oct 9am-7pm; Nov-Feb 10am-5pm; Mar 9am-6pm; Apr-May 8am-8pm. Last entry 30min. before close. Ticket office closes at 7:30pm).
LEANING TOWER
TOWER
We are jaded travelers here, but we admit: the hype for the Leaning Tower is not simply exaggerated by art historians. This thing is ridiculous, even more ridiculous than the tourists’ creative poses with it, and that means something. You probably haven’t noticed, but the tower’s construction involved a few minor hiccups, leaving it only fully reconstructed and climbable in 2010, after 800 years of work. Climbing the tower is much like any other slanted, narrow, slippery tower climb in Tuscany, except more slanted, narrow, and slippery. Oh, and it’s expensive, too. Maybe that’s why even 17-year-olds need Mom or Dad with them if they want to scale this bad boy. Nevertheless, shell out the euro and climb for the sake of the only acceptable pictures with a tilted horizon.
Make reservations in the Museo del Duomo or online. Visitors under 18 must be accompanied by an adult. Tickets are for a specific time; be prompt. The climb is 300+ narrow, twisty, and very slippery stairs; consider your health and tendency to experience vertigo before attempting. Guided visits last 30min.
Those staying overnight in Pisa are likely in transit—therefore, you may want to weigh access to the train station and airport over proximity to the tower. The one below is one of our favorite budget beds in the city; you can find more on www.letsgo.com.
WALKING STREET HOSTEL
HOSTEL $
Corso Italia 58
393 06 48 737
This hostel does not wait an extra second to remind you how international its crowd is. You’re welcome to stand under a Chinese lantern or a Singaporean flag and feel completely at home. With a long list of amenities that includes everything from lockers to a DVD and game room, Walking Street Hostel is the best value you can get in Pisa.
On Corso Italia, halfway from the train station to the river. Free Wi-Fi. Complimentary coffee and tea. Linens included. Wheelchair accessible. Dorm €19 (Jul €25); doubles €65-75. Cash only. Reception open until 3am.
DUOMO
CHURCH
For once, a church in great condition! Maybe it’s cheating that it was heavily refurbished after a 1595 fire, but oh well. Pisa’s Duomo skipped the sparse decor trend and went for huge, vivid Renaissance-style paintings, an enormous mosaic of Jesus, and an intensely gold-flowered ceiling. Be sure to check out Adam, Eve, and an androgynous human-faced serpent in the left alcove.
Pick up a free ticket at the ticket office. Open daily Apr-Sept 10am-8pm; Oct 10am-7pm; Nov-Feb 10am-1pm and 2pm-5pm; Mar 10am-6pm.
GIARDINO SCOTTO
PARK
Lungarno Leonardo Fibonacci
050 91 01 11
For a change of scene and a breath of fresh air, Giardino Scotto is the place to be. Its main draws are the ruins and walkable portions of the Roman walls (now covered in love notes), but local students flock here on sunny weekends for the desk-like benches. There’s also a permanent outdoor movie theater where films are screened every night of the summer. The playground will take you back to your childhood, provided you grew up in space and had a spinning gazebo. You likely won’t be able to kick the happy children off the little in-ground trampoline; it’s probably more socially acceptable to hang around on the swings.
The park is at the bend in the river, east of the centro. Free. Open daily Jul-Aug 8am-8:30pm; Sept 9am-8pm; Oct 9am-6pm; Nov-Jan 9:30am-4:30pm; Feb-Mar 9am-6pm; Apr 9am-7pm; May-Jun 9am-8pm.
FOOD
This port city brims with seafood to spice up your carb-only diet. Unlike in Florence, you can get a Pisa pizza with actual toppings in the €5-6 range—you’ll find about half a dozen similar but viable pizzerias along Via Santa Maria, just south of the monuments. Meanwhile, a number of Pisa’s restaurants double as bars that offer cheap and delicious aperitivo. People tend to dine earlier here than in Florence, so don’t roll up at 1pm and expect a closing restaurant to cook you tagliatelle.
ARGINI E MARGINI
SEAFOOD $
Lungarno Galilei
329 88 81 972
For a quick fix of beach-style escapism, look no further than this sandy bank of the Arno’s southern shore. Argini e Margini’s floating dock comes to life in the summer with fresh seafood and live jazz. They also serve aperitivo and cocktails along the pier under orange umbrellas and palm trees. Sounds pricey, right? Hardly—you won’t need to shell out anything extravagant for fresh fish.
Look over the wall at the edge of the river down near Ponte della Fortezza. Cover €1. Seafood priced by the kg. Fresh misto €4.50-5. Wine from €4. Cocktails €5. Open in high season M-Th 6-11pm, F-Sa 6pm-midnight, Su 6-11pm.
LA BOTTEGA DEL GELATO
GELATERIA $
P. Giuseppe Garibaldi 11
050 57 54 67
Even Florentines wouldn’t turn up their noses at these generous servings of super smooth gelato. A word of warning, though: for a walk along the sunny and windy river, opt for a cup of gelato instead of a cone if you don’t want to end up with more melty gelato in your hair than in your mouth.
North of Ponte di Mezzo on P. Giuseppe Garibaldi. Gelato from €1.50. Ice cream sandwich €0.50. Open daily high season 11am-1am.
DOLCE PISA
CAFE $
V. Santa Maria 83
050 56 31 81
Pastas, salads, and smoothies galore! Most things on the menu cost €6, so for once we cheapskates actually have options. Also, there’s no cover charge at the tea salon tables, so no need to chomp pastries while awkwardly hovering by the bar.
From the monuments, it’s a 5min. walk down V. Santa Maria; it’s on the right, on the corner with V. Luca Ghini. Pastries €1. Most entrees €6. Cappuccino €1.20. Open M-Tu 7:30am-11pm, Th-Su 7:30am-11pm.
NIGHTLIFE
You really don’t need our help with this one. Pisa is jam-packed with bars and pubs, most of which are quite cheap. Basically, if you are paying more than €3 for a bottle of beer, then you’d better really like the atmosphere. Florentine piazza-based nightlife is less popular here, mainly becausethe piazze aren’t as pretty and the pubs are more plentiful. The main gathering spot, Piazza delle Vettogaglie, is a near-hidden square lined with small pubs, picnic tables, and cheap late-night food. For slightly more upscale options, try Borgo Stretto. Like restaurants, bars tend to close a bit earlier in Pisa (around 1am). If you can make it here in June, Pisa takes to the streets for a line-up of large-scale nighttime festivals. The most happening spots change frequently, so your best bet is to explore. Here are a few scenic options on the water to get you started.
ZENIT CAFE
BAR
V. della Republica 8a, Marina di Pisa
339 413 37 87
Zenit Cafe isn’t actually too much of a nighttime haunt but is still deserves to be at the top of our list. A ways from Pisa, this is a great break from all the tourist shacks your likely to find closer to the sights. Here, you can enjoy the company of the patrons who hang here before you venture outside to explore the surrounding geography. With the sea and beach just opposite the door, Zenit is hard to pass up (the unique rocky beach requires some balancing skills to reach the water but also makes for some fun climbing).
From under the west archway in P. Vittorio Emanuele II, follow as it veers left to find the buses. Tickets (you want Corsi 2) ar €4 round-trip and can be bought inside on the right. Get off at Marina di Pisa; walk toward the shore and continue left. The cafe is one of the 1st ones in the buildings along the street. Beer €4-6. Cocktails €6. Aperitivo buffet €6. Open M-Tu 8am-midnight, Th-Su 8am-midnight. Last bus to Pisa leaves around 10:30pm.
LA BERLINA
BAR
P. Cairoli 10
33 34 64 26 56
The cheapest bar we have ever seen in Italy is named after a 15th-century wall that was located on this piazza to chain criminals to it for public display and condemnation. While nothing of this kind happens here anymore, P. Cairoli is still the place to come. Grab a drink to go (it’s cheaper that way, and the interior isn’t too exciting anyway) and enjoy one of the numerous competitions that are held here on warm June weekends.
Northwest side of P. Cairoli. Drinks (rum and pear) from €1.50. Artisanal beer €6. Discount on birthdays and Let’s Go users. Open daily 10am-2am.
BAZEEL
BAR
Lungarno Pacinotti 1
340 28 81 113
This upbeat corner bar on a major piazza dominates the scene around the Ponte di Mezzo, the most central of the centro bridges. The frozen cocktails make this a refreshing destination after a hot day. When it’s cold, hang out on the catwalk above the cavernous indoor seating.
Just over the north side of Ponte di Mezzo. Beer €3-4.50. Frozen cocktails €6.50. Open daily 2pm-2am.
ESSENTIALS
Practicalities
• TOURIST OFFICES: The office on Piazza Vittorio Emanuele II provides maps, an events calendar, and other assistance. (P. Vittorio Emanuele II 13 050 42 291 www.pisaunicaterra.it Open daily 9:30am-4:30pm.) Airport office. (050 50 25 18 www.pisaunicaterra.it Open daily 9:30am-9:30pm.)
• ATMS: Deutsche Bank is on the corner of V. Giosuè Carducci and V. San Lorenzo. (Between P. Cavalieri and P. Martiri della Libertà. Open 24hr.)
• LUGGAGE STORAGE: In the train station. (At the left end of Binario 1 €4 per 24hr., €2 for additional item. Open daily 6am-9pm.)
• LAUNDROMATS: Lavenderia provides washers, dryers, and detergent. (V. Carmine 20 Open daily 7am-11pm.)
• INTERNET: Cyberia-Tribe (V. San Martino 39, 050 500480), Il Navigatore (V. Palestro 10, 050 0980582). Visitto register for city Wi-Fi.
• POST OFFICES: (P. Vittorio Emanuele II 7/9 050 51 95 14 On the right of the piazza. Open M-F 8:15am-7pm, Sa 8:15am-1:30pm.)
• POSTAL CODES: 56100
Emergency
• POLICE: Polizia Municipale. (V. Cesare Battisti 71/72 050 91 08 11), Carabinieri (V. Guido da Pisa, 050 97181).
• LATE-NIGHT PHARMACIES: Lungarno Mediceo 51. (050 54 40 02 On the north shore of the river, to the east. Open 24hr.)
• HOSPITALS/MEDICAL SERVICES: Hospital Cisanello. (V. Paradisa 2, 050 99 23 00, 050 99 21 11). Santa Chiara. (V. Bonanno Pisano 050 99 21 11 Near P. del Duomo.)
Getting There
BY PLANE
Galileo Galilei Airport (050 84 93 00 www.pisa-airport.com) is practically within walking distance of the city, but the train shuttle (€1.50 on the bus) takes only 5min. The shuttle arrives at Arrivals. The airport is a major budget airline hub for all of Tuscany, including Florence. Some intercontinental flights serve Galileo Galilei, and you can fly directly to Pisa from most European cities.
Pisa Centrale will be your main port of entry from other Italian destinations. (P. della Stazione 050 91 75 91 South of P. Vittorio Emanuele II. Ticket office open 6am-9pm, but there is always a long line; check out the 24hr. self-service machines.) Trains run to and from Florence (€7.80 1-1¼hr.; 6 trains daily to Florence 4:15am-10:30pm, from Florence 7am-10:25pm), Rome (€23-51 depending on speed, but there’s not much difference. 4hr., approximately every hr. 5:45am-7:56pm), and Lucca (€3.30. 27min.; approximately every hr. 6am-8pm). If leaving from San Rossore, Pisa’s secondary station is in the northwest area of town; buy tickets at tabaccherie.
BY BUS
Aucostradaze Ryanair (€7.50) and Terravision (€6. 44 68 94 239 www.terravision.eu/florence_pisa.html) run buses between Pisa’s airport and Florence, while Lazzi (058 35 84 876 www.lazzi.it) and CPT (050 50 55 11 www.cpt.pisa) run buses that leave from and arrive in P. Sant’Antonio. ( Ticket office open daily 7am-8:15pm.) Buses leave from Florence’s Santa Maria Novella bus station. ( From the train station, take a left onto V. Alamanni; the station is on the left by a long driveway. (€6.10. 1¼hr., 1 per hr.) Buses to Lucca leave from Pisa Airport and run to and from P. Giuseppe Verdi in Lucca. (€4.40min., 1 per hr.) You can also easily take a bus to Marina di Pisa. ( From under the west side of the archway in P. Vittorio Emanuele II, follow as it veers left to find the buses. €2. 25min., every 20min.)
Getting Around
ON FOOT
There’s little need for anything but your feet while you’re in Pisa. From the train station to P. dei Miracoli—the longest diameter of the city and also the route you’re most likely to take—is about a 20-25min. walk, depending on the route.
BY BUS
LAM ROSSA runs a loop between the airport, train station, tower, and several other points in Pisa every 20min. (€1.10). Most buses stop at P. Sant’Antonio, just west of P. Vittorio Emanuele II. You can purchase bus tickets at tabaccherie or at ticket machines at Pisa Centrale and Galileo Galilei airport.
BY TAXI
RadioTaxi (050 54 16 00). There are taxi stands at the airport, Pisa Centrale, and P. del Duomo.
BY BIKE
Pisa is somewhat less bike-friendly than other Tuscan cities, with lanes that tend to disappear right when you actually need them. Rentals are available at Eco Voyager. (V. Uguccione della Faggiola 41 050 56 18 39 www.ecovoyager.i €4 per hr., €12 per day, €50 per week. Open daily 9am-noon.)
Ask a native of Lucca to compare Florence to his beloved hometown, and he is likely to mutter dismissively about canine excrement. The fiercely proud Lucchesi have every reason to be protective of their little fortified Brigadoon, as it is everything Florence is not: musical, uncrowded, green, and slow-paced. You can throw away your map here and get lost—the walls will keep you safe as you wander labyrinthine alleys, distinctive piazze, and bicycling Lucchesi balancing cappuccinos. Those amazingly intact 16th-century walls that hug the city not only provide a gorgeous 4km stroll but also keep out most cars and two-days-per-country Round-the-Worlders. As the birthplace of Puccini, Lucca is an extremely musical city, with at least one concert every day of the year—your first stop might be at one of the ubiquitous poster kiosks to find out which university choir is touring through town that day. Let’s Go recommends staying at least a night or two in Lucca—you don’t want to miss the walls at sunset. And while these walls are undoubtfully the best thing the town has, it’s still worth it venturing out and to the north: walk out Porta S. Maria and follow V. Borgo Gianotti for some modern shopping and, a few blocks later, a nice river stroll.
ORIENTATION
When you look at a map, you’ll see a big, square-shaped area inside the ellipse of Lucca’s walls. This square marks the original Roman city boundaries; inside it, streets form a surprisingly reliable grid. If they suddenly begin to spiral in on themselves, you are probably nearing the Piazza Anfiteatro in the north. Coming from the station, you will most likely enter from the south, passing Lucca’s Duomo. A little west from here is Piazza Napoleone, the heart of community life. The other major gateway to the town is Piazzale Verdi—if you’re here, it means you’re in the westernmost part of the city. Via Fillungo, lined with posh shops and department stores, runs roughly north-south until it starts veering east into that wacky Anfiteatro zone. East of the canal on Via del Fosso, you’ll find the city’s “new” section, a 16th-century extension. The walls, of course, are always all around you.
SIGHTS
The main sight in Lucca is the town itself. While you wander, there are several places of interest to explore. The Basilica di San Frediano, with its splendid Byzantine Jesus mosaic, displays the desiccated corpse of St. Zita in a glass case (kind of like a gruesome Snow White). The elliptical Piazza Anfiteatro was once the site of a Roman amphitheater. The Torre dell’Ore has been rented to clock-runners since 1390 and allows you to climb past the clock’s inner workings, while the Torre Guinigi has tiny trees on top. We suggest you enjoy the towers from the ground, though, as don’t provide Tuscany’s most spectacular views. ( 1 tower €3, students and over 65 €2; 2 towers €5/4. Torre dell’Ore open daily June-Sept 9:30am-7:30pm; Oct-May 9:30am-6:30pm. Torre Guinigi open daily May-Sept 9am-midnight; Oct-Feb 9am-5pm; Mar-Apr 9am-7:30pm.)
THE WALLS
WALLS
Some cities have a park. This park has a city. Lucca’s walls were built as fortification in the second half of the 16th century. Despite all their ramparts, sally ports, and cavaliers, though, they never had to face an enemy worse than the flood of 1812. Today, the 4.2km of walls are mossy and tree-covered, and the old army quarters now serve as public facilities, cafeterias, and study centers. At any time of the day or evening, the town’s residents can be found jogging or hanging out on the beautiful fortifications. Metaphorically, the walls continue to be a defense—they guard this Tuscan Atlantis from the outside world, protecting the tiny city’s rhythm from being disrupted by the frantic tick-tock of modernity. “Once it was a place for military protection,” says the city’s official guide to the walls, “and now it protects memories.”
Walk away from the town center and you’re certain to hit them. For more info, visit the Opera delle Mura at Castello Porta San Donato Nuova (0583 58 23 20 www.operadellemura.it) or just pick up the guide to the walls from the tourist office.
PIAZZA NAPOLEONE
PIAZZA
Lucca is a small town with a huge heart. And while we do not diminish the town’s charm and the friendliness of its citizens, Piazza Napoleone might just be the most appealing part of the city. Lucca’s heart, P. Napoleone, is green, L-shaped, and has a lit-up carousel. It’s tranquil on most days but blows up every time there’s need for celebration, including the Summer Festival in July.
Just above the southern center walls. Free.
There’s just one hostel in town, but it’s big enough to accommodate everyone. Otherwise, you can find a cozy room in one of Lucca’s 54 (and counting) bed and breakfasts for what you’d spend on a hostel in Florence. However, if you come in July, every bed in town will likely be stocked with music lovers: Lucca’s Summer Festival attracts surprisingly big names for such a tiny town. The lone hostel, as well as a particularly worth-it B&B, are listed below; more accommodations can be found on www.letsgo.com.
LA GEMMA DI ELENA
B&B $$
V. della Zecca 33
0583 49 66 65
Most bed and breakfasts feel like they were decorated by your kooky aunt. This one feels like it was decorated by that awesome guy from college who lived in Tibet and now writes an antiquing blog. It’s spacious yet cluttered in an utterly lived-in way, with colorful sarongs on the wall and a wind chime hanging from the chandelier. Each room has a distinct character and name—“Zelda,” for example, has a crystal ball. Since Italian breakfast generally consists of one croissant, the B&B’s buffet of bread, Nutella, jam, pastries, lunch meat, and cheese is a great incentive to get out of bed.
Off V. del Fosso. Free Wi-Fi. Guests receive a key to the front door. Breakfast available 8:30-10am. Parking available. Pets welcome. Single €35; doubles €65-90. Reception open until the last guest arrives.
OSTELLO SAN FREDIANO (HI)
HOSTEL $
V. della Cavallerizza 12
0583 46 99 57
Once upon a time, as you’ll often find in Italy, this place was a monastery of the San Frediano church. It’s unknown whether that saint was an avid traveler, but bless him anyway because not-so-touristy Lucca now has an enormous HI hostel. By enormous, we mean it looks ready to host five or six school groups to fill the vast courtyard and lavish common rooms.
Just past V. San Frediano. It’s the only hostel in town, so you can safely follow the Ostello signs. Free Wi-Fi in the lobby. Lockers included. Dorms €20, with bath €22 (mixed and gender-separated); doubles €65; triples €80; quads €105; quints €115. Lockout 10am-2pm.
DUOMO DI SAN MARTINO
CHURCH
P. Antelminelli
0583 49 05 30
The Duomo di San Martino is a palace in a matchbox: you’ll never know from the simple rectangular façade where all that glorious space on the inside comes from. Inside, a long-bearded Christ is crucified in a huge golden cage. You can also visit the Tomb of Illyria and the oldest surviving marble carving by Renaissance artist Jacopo della Quercia. Next door in P. Antelminelli, the Museo della Cattedrale displays graduals and other sparkly things from the Middle Ages to the 15th century.
From P. Napoleone, take V. Duomo. Duomo free. Baptistery €3, groups and children €2. Combined ticket to the baptistery, Tomb of Ilyria, and museum €7; groups and kids €5; family ticket (2 adults, 2 children) €20. Open M-F 9:30am-5:45pm, Sa 9:30am-6:30pm, Su 9:30-10:45am and noon-6pm. No tourist visits to the cathedral during Mass.
MUSEUM
V. Santa Giustina 16
0583 95 58 24
Though the information panels are rather dry, this free museum will help you understand why Puccini is important to Lucca and to opera in general. Peruse vintage poster art, costume design sketches, and souvenir schlock from the original runs of masterpieces like Turandot, La Bohème, Madame Butterfy, and Tosca; hear numbers from Gallone’s cinematic interpretations of the operas; and read (but don’t understand, unless you speak Italian) letters to and from the maestro himself. To extend the Puccini pilgrimage, grab one of the red postcards that bears his signature bowler hat and mustache for directions to his childhood home, which is not open to the public. The postcards also indicate the birthplace of legendary cellist Boccherini, in vain hope that someone cares.
Off P. San Salvatore. Free. Open M 10am-7pm, W-Su 10am-7pm.
LU.C.C.A.
MUSEUM
V. della Fratta 36
0583 49 21 80
The full name of Lu.C.C.A is Lucca Center of Contemporary Art, proving that Lucca is as good at acronyms as it is at everything else. Those who like white-on-white designs and signs that say things like “this is the narrative plot of a peripheral network that harks back to the omnivorous particles of a tentacular research” will adore this museum. For everyone else, it’s still a fascinating stage for the latest avant-garde and experimental modern art, particularly in the realms of material and technique.
At the intersection of V. Santa Gemma Galgani, V. della Zecca, and V. dei Fossi. Prices vary, but exhibits run from free to €10, sometimes with student discounts. Open Tu-Su 10am-7pm. Last entry 6pm.
PALAZZO PFANNER
MUSEUM
V. degli Asili 33
0583 95 40 29
Those nouveau-riches of the 19th century certainly knew how to display wealth. At Palazzo Pfanner, before you even enter the museum itself, the statues lined up in the garden will lead you to an even more impressive fountain. What’s inside is even more interesting, and the items collected here offer a more curious selection than you might expect. Prepare for a quirky mix of beer-brewing tools, vaginal irrigators, lemon trees, and Jesus sculptures. The visit is quick, but it’s certainly unique.
Near the San Frediano gate in the walls. Palazzo €4.50; students, ages 12-16, and over 65 €4. Garden €4.50/4. Combined ticket €6/5. Under 12 free. Open daily Apr-Oct 10am-6pm.
FOOD
Many of Lucca’s loveliest dining spots are tucked into alleyways and hidden courtyards, but just follow lines of candles or paper lanterns, and they’re easy to find. During the day, fresh produce, meat, and fish are available in Piazza del Carmine (open M-Sa 8am-1:30pm). Lucchese specialties tend to be pasta, such as the meat-filled tortelli alla Lucchese. You should also be aware that if you’re coming from Florence, the gelato in Lucca is nothing to get excited about, so take a break from your regular treat and gorge on Nutella crepes, baked goods, and fruit-filled yogurt instead. However, locals sometimes add a jolt to their gelato with alcohol sundaes/granites, so look out for those specials.
SAN COLOMBANO
RISTORANTE, CAFETERIA $$
Baluardo di San Colombano
0583 46 46 41
www.caffetteriasancolombano.it
Like all other establishments that scored a spot in an exceptionally unique and picturesque place, San Colombano is very proud of itself, for better and for worse. This pride results in fancy dishes and lots of seating spaces both outside and inside in a curving glass hall. But don’t expect to savor your gnocchi with crab and mint (€12) while overlooking the views from the walls: “outside” means a small courtyard tucked inside the middle of the restaurant. Still, huge salads and experimental pizza combos “for those who want to dare” are worth a dinner here—try the pizza with tomatoes, two cheeses, and pears.
Atop the wall, in the southeast at San Colombano. Cover €2. Pizza €5.50-9. Primi €8-14. Open Tu-F 8am-1am, Sa 8am-2am.
PIZZERIA BELLA MARIANA
PIZZERIA $
V. della Cavallerizza 29
0583 49 55 65
Pizzeria Bella Mariana has the best pizza around, hands-down. You’re expected to order at the desk and clean up after yourself, but this just means a lower price for the freshly fired pizza. Try the eggplant Pizza Siciliana. This is a great place to pick up some to-go pizza that you can eat while watching the sunset from the city walls.
Across from the Ostello San Frediano. Pizza €5-8. Open M 12:30-2:30pm and 6:30-11:30pm, W-F 12:30-2:30pm and 6:30-11:30pm.
ANTICO SIGILLO
RISTORANTE $$
V. degli Angeli 13
0583 91 042
If magical forces brewed an essence of Lucca, after the vapor cooled down, they’d find Antico Sigillo. This place is located on a quiet street off the main touristic route and emits peaceful moods with it’s light-colored and relaxing design. Moreover, it only serves local dishes, with gourmet specialties like tortelli alla Lucchesi with meat “inside and outside of pasta.”
Off V. Fillungo. Free Wi-Fi. Cover €1.50. Primi €7.50-10. Chef’s specials €8-15. Dessert €5.50. Open daily noon-10:30pm.
FORNO ALIMENTARI G. GIURLANI
GROCERY STORE $
V. Fillungo 239
0583 49 62 33
When food places start to prey on your budget, head straight to this grocery store that is stuffed to the ceiling with everything from ham to local pastries to milk products to pre-cooked soups and dishes. Tip: even though there’s no sign of pressed sandwiches, ask for a panini, and one will be made in front of your eyes just for €2. Let’s Go recommends taking your food through the nearby walls and onto Baluardo S. Martino to enjoy it at a wooden picnic table. No ristorante in Lucca can offer such a view.
Just off P. S. Maria. Pastries from €0.40. Fruit from €1.50 per portion. Panini €2. Open daily 7am-2pm and 4-8pm.
NIGHTLIFE
Nice bars and enoteche dot the old city, but Piazza San Michele, Piazza San Frediano, and the intersection of Via Vittorio Veneto and Corso Garibaldi are your best bet. Lucca is not the place to get your pre-game on and dance’til dawn, but it’s a welcoming town for laid-back drinking and mingling. If there’s a reason for celebration, you’ll find the whole town out and about in Piazza Napoleone.
LELEMENTO
ENOTECA, BISTROT
V. Carrara 16
0583 49 32 04
While we at Let’s Godebate the difference between minimalism and simply “not bothering to decorate,” the black-and-white walls here are pleasing enough. And really, the important thing about Lelemento is that it keeps its doors open for aperitivo and the socializing that continues late into the night. To people watch and meet some locals, come between 7:30 and 8:30pm, when this place is at its busiest. Later hours will feature less of a crowd, but the alcohol will be relatively cheap regardless of the hour.
Across from Baluardo Santa Maria. Bottled beer €4. Cocktails €5. Live music on Fridays. Open M-F 7pm-1am, Sa 7pm-2am, Su 7pm-1am.
BAR
V. del Gonfalone 16/18
0583 49 21 66
Although this place offers access to computers and Wi-Fi, this covert internet cafe is also a nice nightlife spot. If the weather is nice, guests of this bar mingle outside, while rainy evening see everyone lounging around inside on red plastic chairs. Up-to-date pop radio hits attract a younger crowd, but the prices keep the true youths away.
Between V. della Zecca and Porte dei Borghi, just behind the fountain. Draw beer €6. Cocktails €7-8. Internet €1.50 per 15min., €3.50 per hr. Free Wi-Fi. Open M-Tu and Th-F 5pm-1am, Sa 5pm-2am, Su 5pm-1am.
GELATERIA GELATIAMO
GELATERIA
Corso Garibaldi 42
0583 46 95 13
Why can’t a gelateria be a nightlife location? Think of it: a) sundaes with vodka and whiskey; b) corner pit-stop location that draws crowds after dark; c) gelato in Lucca is just like bar food that tastes even better when you’ve got the right chemicals in your system. Forget the cheap potato chips and venture over to Gelateria Gelatiamo the next time you’re feeling a case of the drunchies.
At the intersection of V. Vittorio Veneto and Corso Garibaldi. Yogurt and gelato cones from €1.60. Sundaes €3-4. Open daily 10:30am-1am.
ARTS AND CULTURE
Lucca is an extremely musical town. The Puccini Festival ensures at least one performance every day of the year, and summer time sees an explosion of concerts and musical events. Additionally, the town is a popular destination for university choirs and orchestras on tour, so stop by the box office at Teatro Verdi, visit www.comune.lucca.it, or take a look at one of the many poster kiosks to see what’s happening during your visit. If you’re here on a Friday night in the summer, you should also stop by the Orto Botanico (V. del Giardino Botanica 14) for free candlelit musical performances.
PUCCINI E LA SUA LUCCA
OPERA
Chiesa di San Giovanni
0583 32 70 41
We hope hometown hero Giacomo Puccini loves fame and glory (and occasional yawning)—here in Lucca, he’s celebrated every single night of the year with recitals of his arias and art songs. Sometimes they spice it up with some Mozart and Verdi. Either way, this is the only permanent festival in the world, ensuring that every visiting tourist has a chance to be converted into a Puccini obsessive.
Off V. Duomo. Coming from P. Napoleone, it’s the church on the left before the Duomo. Concerts €20, students under 23 €16. 15% discount if you buy before 6pm at the official ticket point. Galas and staged opera performances €15-40. Advance sales online or at authorized festival sales points. All performances are at 7pm. Tickets sold at Chiesa di San Giovanni daily 10am-6pm.
SINGING OF THE TREES
CLASSICAL MUSIC
Giardino Botanico
0583 58 31 50
If you’re lucky enough to be in Lucca on a Friday night in June, July, or August, you should be here for Il canto degli alberi. The city’s botanical garden hosts chamber music concerts on Friday nights at 9:30pm during the summer. It’s a great way to share in Lucca’s passion for music without overly saturating yourself in too much Puccini. Better still, the whole garden is open and illuminated with candles along the pathways.
In the botanical garden in the southeast corner of the city €3; disabled, under 14, and over 65 free. Performances in summer F 9:30pm.
SUMMER FESTIVAL
FESTIVAL
P. Anfiteatro
0584 46 477
It’s a true wonder how Lucca remains a quiet little town, unspoiled by tourist trash, despite hosting this summer festival. In July, P. Napoleone and P. Amphiteatro become mass concert stages for the latest names in music. This festival recruits a number of big names: previous line-ups have included The Killers, 30 Seconds To Mars, and Amy Winehouse. Some of the concerts are free, so check out who’s playing while you’re in town.
Gates and seating vary by concert, but all are based out of P. Anfiteatro. Prices vary, but generally €30-100, with a couple free concerts each year. Concerts every few days in Jul.
ESSENTIALS
Practicalities
• TOURIST OFFICES: Centro Accoglienza Turistica, the main branch of Lucca’s primary tourist office, schedules guided tours and provides audio tours, information about events, and internet access, including Wi-Fi (when it’s working). (Ple. Verdi 0583 58 31 50 www.luccaitinera.it Look for the “i” sign on the left. Open daily 9am-7pm.) Ufficio Regionale has accommodations booking assistance. (P. Santa Maria 35 0583 46 99 64 Look for the “i” sign on the right. Open late Jun-late Dec.)
• CURRENCY EXCHANGE: There is no currency exchange in town, and local bank branches provide this service to clients only.
• ATMS: UniCredit Banca. ( Corner of Viale Agostino Marti and V. San Paolino. 50m from the bank, off Ple. Verdi. Open 24hr.) Deutschebank. ( Corner of V. Fillungo and V. Mordini. Open 24hr.)
• LAUNDROMATS: Lavanderia Niagara. (V. Michele Rosi 26 349 16 45 084 Off P. San Michele. Open daily 7am-11pm.)
• INTERNET: Tourist offices all provide computers with internet. The office at Ple. Verdi has Wi-Fi. Betty Blue internet cafe has both computers and Wi-Fi and keeps the longest hours. (V. del Gonfalone 16/18 0583 49 21 66 www.bettybluelucca.it Between V. della Zecca and Porte dei Borghi €1.50 per 15min., €3.50 per hr. Wi-Fi free. Open M-Tu 5pm-1am, Th-F 5pm-1am, Sa 5pm-2am, Su 5pm-1am.) Wi-Fi is also available at the train station in Ple. Ricasoli.
Emergency
• POLICE: Polizia Municipale. (Ple. San Donato 12 0583 44 27 27 At the westernmost point inside the walls.) Carabinieri. (Cortile degli Svizzeri 4 0583 46 78 21 In the southwest area of the centro.)
• LATE-NIGHT PHARMACIES: Farmacia Comunale. (P. Curatone 7 Outside the city walls, opposite Baluardo San Colombano. Open 24hr.)
• HOSPITALS/MEDICAL SERVICES: Campodi Marte. (V. dell’Ospedale 0583 95 57 91 Outside the city walls, northeast of the city. Open 24hr.)
Getting There
BY TRAIN
To get to Lucca from Florence, the train is your most reliable option. Take the Viareggio train—Lucca is the third to last stop before Viareggio. You can order your ticket (€7) from the self-service kiosk or the window. Validate your ticket before boarding by stamping it in the small green machine by your train. You will arrive in Ple. Ricasoli, just south of the city walls. ( Station open M-F 4:30am-12:30am, Sa-Su 5:30am-12:30am. Ticket office open daily 7am-7pm.) Direct trains run back to Florence (€7. 80min., 2 per hr. 5:05am-10:31pm.) and Pisa. (€3. 30min., 2 per hr. 7am-9:42pm.)
Take the Vaibus (0583 58 78 97 www.vaibus.it) from the Florence bus terminal. ( From the left side of the train station, take the 1st left and walk up the block. The terminal is on the left.) You’ll arrive in Ple. Verdi. (€6. 1½hr., 1-2 per hr.)
Getting Around
BY TAXI
RadioTaxi (0583 02 53 53). Taxi stands (marked with codes identifying the pick-up point) can be found at the train station, P. Napoleone, P. Santa Maria, and Ple. Verdi.
BY BUS
Lucca offers both suburban buses and seven town buses around the city, all run by the company CLAP (0583 54 11 www.clapspa.it). You can catch pretty much any bus at Ple. Verdi, just inside the west side of the city walls. Buses stop running around 8pm. Ticket prices depend on your destination but start as low a €1.
BY BIKE
You’ll find the same rates and hours at each of the major rental places around town. ( Street bike €3 per hr., €15 per day; mountain bikes €4/20; tandem bikes €5.50 per hr. Open daily 9am-7:30pm.) Here are some places to rent bikes: Poll Antonio Biciclette (P. Santa Maria 42 0583 49 37 87), Promo Tourist (Porta San Pietro 348 38 00 126), and the tourist office in Ple. Verdi.
Chocolate, jazz, breathtaking views: it seems unfair that Perugia gets it all. But it does. Perugia is the host city for Umbria Jazz and Eurochocolate, so you’ll be sure to find something here, whether it’s the largest Baci chocolate in the world or some cool cats having a jam sesh in a local bar. During the school year, you can to pretend to be one of the 34,000 students who attend the University of Perugia. Otherwise, feel free to explore Perugia by living in a former Borgia palace, walking on an aqueduct, or eating all the free samples after a tour of a chocolate factory. Living it up amid the medieval architecture and modern population of this city isn’t hard. The city is built among hills and sometimes has gravity-defying slopes and stairs upwards. What this means, though, is that Perugia is filled with breathtaking panoramas of Umbria, with rolling green hills and distant mountains, all of which can be enjoyed with some smooth jazz playing in the background as you bite into delicious artisan chocolates. Mmm, right on.
SIGHTS
GALLERIA NAZIONALE DELL’UMBRIA
MUSEUM
C. Pietro Vannucci, 19
075 5866 8410
www.gallerianazionaleumbria.it
Modern, sleek, well-curated (!), and with a Jesus to die for every one of your many, many sins, the National Gallery of Umbria is not a place to miss. For the well-curated part alone. See what can be done with the help of our Lord, all you other bad regional museums? Housed in the beautifully medieval Palazzo dei Priori, the guarding lions and decorated archways leading to the door may not have screamed “cutting edge in a couple thousand years,” but the exhibits are still something to see.
After a long flight of stairs, emerge in the beautifully sleek opening exhibit with high vaulted arches and specially designed panels that fit all the lovely painted 13th century crosses this place has, meaning you can view them from all sides. The museum progresses through early paintings of Jesus, going all the way into the Renaissance so you can see how, over time, painters were finally able to paint baby Jesus without making him look like a creepy little man. Also keep an eye out for the room in which Mary decides to have a little more fun as a virgin and goes blonde.
OSTELLO DI PERUGIA CENTRO
HOSTEL $
V. Bontempi, 13
075 57 22 880
And then sometimes your hostel is a former Borgia Palace. It’s Italy. It happens. Located right in the center of town and a minute away from P. IV Novembre, the “centro” part of this hostel’s name doesn’t lie—you’ll have plenty to do outside your hostel.
But for the hours that you do spend in here, don’t squander them all in your relatively plain dorm, mercilessly segregated from the opposite sex by a door that must always remain closed (so much for some Borgia-style debauchery). Head down to the spacious common room area. An enormous kitchen waiting to be cooked in has plenty of picnic-style tables and benches where you can enjoy a nice meal. The TV room is also large and has plenty of comfy couches.
What really steals the show, however, is the common room with all the tables and chairs. Exciting! But then look up. Those gorgeous ceiling frescoes? Yeah, you should take some pictures. Those are originals that the Borgias also admired. If that’s not enough, walk out onto the terrace, and you’ll get one of the most beautiful views of Perugia. The Borgias knew what was up.
Dorms €17. Reception 7:30-11am, 3:30pm-midnight. Lockout 11am-3:30pm.
PERUGIA FARMHOUSE BACKPACKER HOSTEL
HOSTEL $
V. Settevalli,, 760
339 562 0005
Not so surprisingly, this hostel is a farmhouse. Didn’t see that coming. But no, it’s like a legit farmhouse. Complete with barn animal friends. This place takes the word “rustic” and doesn’t even try. It just is rustic. Brick stone, goats, chickens, donkeys, and some good farmer hospitality—this place definitely has more of a cozy feel than most sterile hostels you might stay at. Take your bag off, and welcome home.
This place is for people who don’t really need to be in the city center. Stay here if you’re okay with spending your vacation on a farm and then taking occasional excursions into the city (but not after 9:30pm, when you should catch the last bus). It all adds up to not too many wild nights but plenty of wilderness nights.
There’s a cute, close community here, and if that doesn’t do it for you, there’s a drop-dead gorgeous pool and beautiful scenery. Being in the middle of nowhere has some perks when you want to explore the lovely Umbrian geography.
People living here tend to make their own fun with pizza nights, s’mores nights, BBQs, and nearby wine and beer tasting areas. So even if you’re not right in the city, some wine, pool time, and farm friend comfort might make it all worth it.
Dorms €18-23.
As you walk around, be sure to peek into the corridors as well as the rooms. Lovely gems like some enormous bronze contraptions with the description “wafer makers await.” Some rooms also have beautiful frescoed walls, which have nothing to do with the museum. Just a consequence of being in a former palace, we guess.
Once you enter into the Renaissance work, admire how well everyone can draw arches. And Jesus. The museum continues downstairs as well, so don’t miss the Renaissance happenings there. You’ll get to see the famous Perugino, who as you might’ve guessed, gets his name from this fair city. Mannerism follows, and then many Caravaggio wannabes pop up. You could be described as one of them as well, seeing as backpacking will leave you pretty ba-roque! But aside from that joke, it is a gorgeous museum.
€6.50. Open Tu-Su 9am-7pm.
PERUGINA CHOCOLATE FACTORY
CHOCOLATE FACTORY
V. San Sisto 207
075 527 67 96
It’s a Chocolate Factory. Unless you’ve been scarred and are terrified that you’ll turn into a giant blueberry, we couldn’t stop you from coming here. Perugina, a division of Nestle Italy, is a famous chocolate brand that you’ve probably seen during your travels in Italy. If not, you’ve been doing traveling wrong and should go have their famous Baci chocolate or try some Baci gelato right now. Even better: come on this chocolate factory tour and then eat enough Perugina chocolate in the tasting part of the tour to last you at least a week. Don’t feel bad. This factory produces two million Baci chocolates—per day.
Located in San Sisto, about 15min. by bus from Fontivegge, this enormous chocolate factory runs tours Mondays to Fridays. Call ahead to make a reservation and figure out when English tours are given. The tour starts out with a fun for the whole family short film that describes the history of Perugina, which started as a small family business and then, through the help of Nestle, went hella corporate (which is pretty much the American dream). Watch some of the chocolates being made in detail here. During the summer, the factory is in low season and you watch most of it from above, so seeing all the chocolates being made just ain’t possible sometimes.
The tour continues into the museum, where you’ll be given a thorough debrief on what exactly chocolate is and important questions like “What’s the difference between dark and white chocolate?” will be explained. Afterwards, watch another short movie about the Il Bacione, the largest single piece of chocolate ever made, which was displayed at Eurochocolate 2012. It gets eaten to the soundtrack of some Enya at the end of the movie. After this, it’s the moment you’ve been waiting for: free samples. Try 10 different types of Perugina chocolate, ranging from 70% dark bars to the famous Baci. Eat as much as you can, feel a little sick, then walk through the wondrous chocolate factory itself from above. See enormous machines pump out little delicious bits of chocolate then wrap them up in foil and package them under the watchful eyes of some workers. The two million Baci comment isn’t an exaggeration. As the only factory able to produce Baci, they’re all made here. After a walk through the factory, walk by the tasting room, stuff your mouth and pockets again, and then end at the gift shop. Because sometimes you just need to buy more chocolate.
High season €9. Low season €5. Call to ask about tour times.
CHURCH OF SAN DOMENICO
CHURCH
V. del Castellano, 4
075 572 4136
As the largest church in Umbria, San Domenico looms out over most scenic panoramas of Perugia. Go big or go home. It’s time to get up close and personal with this church. Built in a rather austere Gothic style, the walls here don’t need frescoes and intricate decorations to impress. They do that by sheer size alone. The apse window is the largest in Italy, coming in at 21 x 8.5m. Which all sounds fine as a number. But walk in, and you’ll realize what “largest church in Umbria” really means.
Even when filled with people, walking around here will still feel like a lonely experience. Cavernous, echoing, and starkly empty. To get a true perception of size, take a look at a person walking in this church. Then look at the size of the column next to him. Yeah, this place is big. Plain white walls, a beautiful stained glass window, and some worn frescoes on some of the walls are all there is to see now. It once used to house the Perugia Altarpiece by Fra Angelico, but this is now housed in the National Gallery of Umbria.
Still wanna see some cool shit, though? Head into the cloisters next to this church. It’s currently home to the National Archaeological Museum in Perugia. Even if urns aren’t your jam, a walk in these cloisters is still beautiful. The halls in the museum are lined with Etruscan statues and funerary monuments. A bizarre amulet room contains all the weird things people used to carry for good luck. Because sometimes a wine cork is super lucky. The museum goes way, way back into Neanderthal era at one point, too. Head down and see the Cutu tomb, a completely intact Etruscan tomb which will give you the shivers. To calm down, head back up to the cloisters and enjoy some fast, complimentary Wi-Fi. History’s always looking out for you.
Free. Open daily 7am-noon and 4-7pm.
FOOD
AL MANGIAR BENE
ITALIAN $$
V. della Luna
075 573 1047
Italian food is great. But sometimes you just want to know the cow that gave the milk that was used in the cheese that’s now the Parmesan on the table. For days like this, go to Al Mangiar Bene. Where American hipsters have made healthy, local food a pretentious occasion, this eco-conscious restaurant still has all the rustic charm of a small Italian eatery, with wooden tables, vaulted arches, and a cozy locale down an unassuming alleyway.
Locals and tourists alike flock to this place during lunch and dinner times (just be warned that if you’re craving pizza, it’s only served during dinner). Nevertheless, everything you eat here is delicious. From the fresh, purified water to the bread that for some reason just tastes so damn good…and your food hasn’t even arrived yet.
For pasta, you get to play the fun game of “match the best type of pasta with the best type of sauce.” Our suggestion? The umbricelli with the wild boar sauce. Because you can’t leave Umbria without trying some wild boar. The steaks and meat options may get a little pricey, but knowing the restaurant’s commitment to organic and healthy, you’ll feel good eating these animal friends. Come during dinner, and you’ll be able to try the delicious pizza options ranging from classic margherita to something more exciting like spicy sausage.
Enjoy the homey feeling of this restaurant and then eat as much as you possibly can. It’s the healthy thing to do.
Appetizers €6-12. Pizza €5-8. Pasta €6-10. Meats €10-18. Open M 7:30-10:45pm, Tu-Sa 12:302:45 pm and 7:30-10:45 pm, Su 7:30-10:45pm.
PIZZERIA MEDITERRANEA
PIZZA $
P. Piccinino 11/12
075 572 1322
The long lines outside this restaurant at lunchtime? Yeah, that should tip you off. The pizza here is ballin’. Located steps outside P. IV Novembre, if you want to snag a seat here, come close to opening at 12:30pm. Even if you don’t make it in time, don’t worry. Much like your pro-abstinence health teacher might have told you, some things are worth the wait.