Let’s Go Europe 2015

A breathtakingly beautiful town built in the mountains, Assisi possesses the kind of natural beauty that will make you want to renounce all your worldly goods. Famous for being the birthplace of St. Francis of Assisi (shocker, we know), the founder of the Franciscan order of monks, don’t be surprised to find monks in full regalia wandering around in the pizzerias here. The occasional barefoot pilgrim, complete with rags and walking staff, graces this religious center, too. There are no shortage of churches in Assisi, the most famous of course being the Basilica of San Francesco d’Assisi, with its beautiful mosaics and picturesque views from all around. Pretty much any of the small cobblestone streets will give you a workout by sending you ever upward (you are on a mountain, after all) to churches or beautiful historical sights. Assisi can easily be seen in a daytrip, but if you can, stay overnight and watch the sunset behind the basilica turn the sky gorgeous shades of pink and purple and enjoy some flavor of the ecstasy that made the monks give up their iPhones. Maybe these sunsets make it worth it.

For a man who renounced all his worldly goods, St. Francis sure did get an amazingly glamorous basilica in Assisi. As the main sight to see in this mountain town, this church has been visited by monks, pilgrims, and tourists for centuries. And seeing its beauty after a rugged climb up the mountain (or rugged bus ride up) will make the effort to get to Assisi so worth it.

Enormous and difficult to miss, from first sight, it’s a masterpiece. With beautiful arched colonnades leading to the lower entrance, you’ll just have to walk in to see the honors bestowed upon this man. St. Francis, back when he was just Francis, was a man who saw the true way and decided to live as a beggar and eventually founded the Franciscan order. Making him kind of a big deal. Now plenty of monks grace this basilica, wearing their iconic brown robes throughout the aisles and out into the city and the pizzerias too. It’s pretty awesome.

Walk into the church and let the lower basilica amaze you. With enormous arches and a ceiling painted dark blue and with stars like the night sky, it’s like a whole new world down here. Every inch in covered by frescoes, and all of them are beautiful. Giotto might steal the show upstairs, but take a look at all these masterpieces.

Walk down the aisle and you’ll get to the tomb of St. Francis himself, surrounded by even more ceiling frescoes. The tomb is elaborate, decked out in gold, with bright green lanterns and tiny little columns surrounding it. If you want to get closer to St. Francis, you can take a walk down below the tomb, which is an area reserved for quiet prayer. Another relic room is also downstairs and features some great finds, like the robes and (our personal favorite) slippers of St. Francis himself.

Where the Basilica of San Francesco will make you look up at beautiful night skies and ceiling frescoes, the Duomo of Assisi will make you look down. Underneath this church are the ruins of the old church that it was built upon, and open green glass floors at some points in the cathedral allow you to look down and see it.

Once you look up at the actual church itself, come face to face with a dramatic suspended Christ hanging from the altar. Shock value points. This church may not be as elaborate as some other important ones you may see in Assisi, but it is one of their most important ones, being the Duomo and all. Walk around the rather stark white walls and look at the gorgeous statues of St. Francis, among other saints who stand around this church.

The whole cathedral is made with beautiful marble. There is an area reserved for praying, and though you’re usually not allowed in, take a peek at the pretty pastel paintings in the room. If you come at the right time, the choir might be practicing, filling the entire Duomo with angelic singing voices.

On your way out, take a look down at the ruins again (the effect never gets old), and then prepare to leave the cool church to pilgrimage through the rest of Assisi.

If Assisi isn’t high up enough for you, climb up to Rocca Maggiore. An ancient castle and fortress, this place has survived because of its great defenses. And also for being hella high up. Take the steps up and prepare for an uphill battle. Once you get up here, though, you’ll find some amazing views of Assisi from above.

This impressive castle that dominates the skyline was built in the 1100s and to this day presents the might of a former great fort. And if you choose to make it up here, you get to pay it a visit! Largely unguided, a wander through here is exactly that—a wander. Check out the fortifications all around it. Enter some rooms and find the creepiest exhibits known to mankind, where curators have felt the need to do banquet table recreations with faceless mannequins dressed up all old-timey style. We’re not saying that they move when you don’t look, but try not to spend too much time with these mannequins if you can.

As you make your way around the fort, try to find the least sketchy flight of stairs and take it up. Any of these flights will offer you more rooms with temporary exhibits but also even higher views of rolling hills and mountains and the precious Assisi down below. After you’ve had enough of stone walls, impenetrable fortifications, and creeptastic rooms, head down to the gift shop where you can buy medieval props that were definitely not meant for five-year-olds. They were made for you.

You’ll need to do some praying to find cheap eats in Assisi. Overrun by monks and tourists, this city has become a little too filled with souvenir shops instead of Jesus. So if you’re really craving a meal but don’t feel like asking for alms, head to Pizzeria Il Duomo.

So maybe it’s not the best pizza in all of Italy. But it sure is cheap by Assisi standards. A backpacker’s and student’s haven, this pizzeria serves up fast and decent pizza with great menu deals. Walk into this seemingly small pizzeria by the gorgeous Duomo and realize that the small door opens up to a Duomo-sized restaurant. Two large rooms accommodating large groups and tavola-per-unos pretty well, this restaurant is prepared for the hordes of tourists waiting to descend. Maybe even an occasional monk. Anything is possible with the help of the Lord.

The menu is that of a fairly standard pizzeria. Cheese, tomatoes, prosciutto—whatever you want, it’s probably here. What makes this place stand out are the great deals. Choose from any combination of drinks, French fries, and pizza in the special menus, and then let it all be served in front of you in the cute wooden and brick restaurant.

•TOURIST OFFICE: There’s a tourist office right by the Basilica di San Francesco. Closed during lunchtime.

Frequent Trenitalia service runs between Perugia (Stazione Fontivegge) and Assisi. Tickets cost around €2-7. From the Assisi station, take one of the buses running Line C (€1.30) that stop outside up to the city center of Assisi. Buses run every 40min.

Buses run from Perugia’s Piazza Partigiani straight into the center of Assisi. Tickets cost €3-4.

Do as the Franciscans do. But no need to be barefoot. All of Assisi is walkable if you don’t mind some steep inclines.

If Rome isn’t Roman enough for you, take a daytrip to Pompeii, the city buried in time. Sailing around the Bay of Naples, you’ll see Mt. Vesuvius lurking formidably over nearly all vistas. On August 24, 79 CE, the volcano erupted, blanketing Pompeii in a cloud of ash. Though tragic for the residents of this ancient metropolis, the eruption created a gold mine for archaeologists and a historical playground for tourists. Streets covered in stone blocks, fading frescoes, chipped mosaics, and a labyrinth of small rooms may get repetitive after a few hours but nonetheless inspire thoughts about how different life was nearly two millennia ago.

The ruins cover 66 hectares of land, although only 45 are accessible to the public. The area around the Circumvesuviana, the Porta Marina entrance, and Piazza Esedra is full of expensive restaurants and souvenir shops. A 20-25min. walk down V. Plinio and then V. Roma leads to the modern city’s centro. From here, the Trenitalia train station is down V. Sacra in P. XXVIII Marzo. Inside the ruins, the most important sights are located on the western side, closer to the Porta Marina entrance. These sights include the Forum and the House of the Faun. A little to the east is the old city’s brothel, and at the far eastern corner, you’ll find Pompeii’s amphitheater. Working your way back from there toward the entrance, you’ll pass the Great Theater on the southern edge of the ruins.

One ticket gives you the run of an entire ancient city. But touring the ruins is no simple undertaking—Pompeii was a true metropolis, complete with basilicas, bars, and brothels, and that kind of scope can be intimidating. Plenty of tour guides will try to coerce you into joining their group, which will cost €10-20. Rather than shelling out to become one of the crowd, opt for an informative audio tour (€6.50, 2 for €10). While both options will teach you a lot, one of the most fun ways to experience Pompeii is to navigate its maze-like streets solo—even with a map, you’re likely to get lost. Of course, the pleasure of going at it alone can be mitigated when the city is packed, and at times, it’s hard to walk down one of Pompeii’s cobbled streets without running into another visitor. Come in the early summer or the fall for a slightly less crowded experience. If you plan on seeing more sites, a combined ticket allows entry to Herculaneum, Oplontis, Stabia, Boscoreale, and Pompeii over the course of 3 days. (

€11, EU citizens ages 18-24 €5.50, EU citizens under 18 and over 65 free; combined ticket €20/10/free. Cash only.

Open daily Apr-Oct 8:30am-7:30pm; Nov-Mar 8:30am-5pm. Last entry 1½hr. before close.)

As soon as you enter through Porta Marina, you can get down to business at the main market district in Pompeii, complete with the Basilica, Temple of Venere, and Forum. Stand in the middle of the Forum and look left, and you’ll get a beautiful view of Mt. Vesuvius looming above the city. Next, wander into the Granai del Foro, which has plaster body casts, including the famous one of the dog. But if these are all too mortal for your divine tastes, walk into the Tempio di Apollo, which has copies of the statues of Apollo and Artemis that once dominated the area (the OG versions are at the Naples’s Museo Archeologico Nazionale). If you’re feeling dirty (because the showers in your hostel are always full), check out the well-preserved baths in the Terme del Foro. It can count as your proper hygiene care for the week.

•LUGGAGE STORAGE: Bag check at the archaeological site is free and mandatory for large bags.

Gritty, bustling, historic, and real. Palermo takes thousands of years of history under Greek, Byzantine, Norman, and Spanish influence, fills its streets with gorgeous theaters and churches, and then walks by them all without looking twice. Though a popular tourist city, it never feels like one. The famous buildings all look worn, and the cobblestone streets by the markets are littered with shrimp tails. Palermo is not a historic relic. It’s still a living, thriving city full of fishermen, immigrants, students, and businessmen all going about their days in the shadow of breathtaking Byzantine cathedrals. At night, the city comes alive with huge crowds gathering at bars and discos, filling open squares with chatter and street food, and dancing until the early hours of the morning.

Palermo is the kind of city that could swallow you up with its slightly grimy building facades and winding narrow streets. To situate yourself, know the three main streets: Via Roma, Via Vittorio Emmanule and Via Maqueda, which will take you pretty much anywhere you want to go. Palermo’s famous street markets, which fill up old streets with everything from swordfish heads to sassy Italian t-shirts, are at Ballaro, Vucciria, and Capo. Head down Via Maqueda and you’ll get to the famous Teatro Massimo, the second largest theater in Europe that could house operas with elephants. Head down Via Roma and you’ll reach the Politeama, an enormous piazza with another large theater. Along the way, numerous churches with golden Byzantine mosaics covering every inch or spiraling Baroque columns or Arab style roofs done by master craftsmen line the streets, so always be sure to peek in. In between all the culture and history and zooming Vespas, you’ll catch a glimpse of Palermo in all its raw, gorgeous glory.

Sometimes having a palace just isn’t enough. If you’re like the Norman kings in Sicily, you’ll want a drop dead gorgeous chapel as well. A visit to the Palazzo dei Normanni, also known as the Royal Palace, will make you feel lowly in more way than one. It’s like the building form of middle school, but with its beautiful architecture and mosaics, it’s well worth a visit.

One of the more unusual sights in Palermo, this historical castle turned Spanish Inquisition prison turned museum is a somber and eye-opening look into the past. Once home to the powerful Sicilian lord, Chiaramonte, this castle built in the 14th century has had quite the life beyond that. During the late-15th century to early 16th, this castle fell under the rule of the Spanish, who destroyed many of the symbols of Chiaramonte. Then from 1600 to 1782, it was the home to the tribunal and many prisons for the Spanish Inquisition. Now both the prisons and a few rooms of the palace are open to the public as a museum that can only be visited along with a guide.

First, a guide will take you into the archaeological site where artisans quarters from the 10th century have been dug up (i.e., this is where you can check out some cool pots—no museum in Sicily is complete without those). Next is the Interrogation room where a Spanish inquisitor was killed, which seems super badass. Unfortunately, now it’s just a room.

After this introduction, the tour takes a turn for the dark and twisted. It heads into the prisons where much graffiti from the prisoners remains. The Poet’s Cell is famous for having verses scribbled on the walls. Other sections have elaborate sketches and drawings of wide-eyed saints and slightly inaccurate maps of Sicily. The walk through the cells is like a walk through an intellectual asylum. Terrifying, heartbreaking, beautiful. Many write on the walls asking for death. Other create gorgeous human figures. One of the last rooms may pull some heartstrings, since it was home to an Englishman who wrote his graffiti in English.

Following the prisons, turn into the palace. All the symbols of Chiaramonte were destroyed by the Spanish, but the two visible rooms here are still beautiful. Note the Arab influences in the doors and take a look at the gorgeous painted ceilings. The palace is a short visit with looks only into two large rooms, but it’s also home to Renato Guttuso’s painting, Vucciria. Then let the guide lead you back out into the sunset and take a couple moments to figure out what the fuck just happened. History, that’s what.

As the most important church in Palermo, we guess this is worth a visit. As you’re walking down V. Vittorio Emanuele, stop at the Duomo to go see a building undergoing an intense architectural identity crisis while also embodying in stone the confusing history of the city.

To get the true scope of the Duomo’s rich architectural diversity, we’ll have to start way, way back. In 1184, the Archbishop of Palermo had this grand old idea to build a cathedral. Perché, non? He chose the site where it stands today because there used to stand an old mosque from the ninth century which itself had been built over an old Christian basilica. This place was just ripe for some more building. The story goes that the archbishop wanted to build a cathedral that would rival the one in Monreale. Well, he failed. Sorry, Palermo. Monreale is widely recognized as a more beautiful church. But all is not lost—the Duomo still stands as quite the masterpiece.

Delicious choices include prosciutto and cheese, quattro formaggi, or capricciosa when you’re feeling a little gluttonous and just want it all. Order, then grab a table outside. Not enough tables? One of the waiters will set one up for you. There is usually a wait because all the pizzas are made fresh, and it can take some time on a busy Friday night. But it’s always worth it.

Pizza €4-8. Open daily 7pm-1am.

PASTICCERIA CAPPELLO

BAKERY $

V. Colonna Rotta, 68

091 48 96 01

There are a lot of words to describe Palermo. Sweet isn’t usually one of them. That’s until you decide to haul ass up to Pasticceria Cappello, at which point Palermo is just a slightly more Mafia-riddled version of Candyland.

Walk into this pastry shop and you’ll be surrounded on all sides by pastries, tarts, cannoli, gelato, and pretty much anything else one could need to satisfy every desire behind glass counters. If you’re in the mood for gelato or granita, head to the right, where a counter of smooth, fresh gelato will parade a rainbow of flavors in front of your eyes. If your dreams are a little more solid, take your pick of pastries everywhere else in the shop.

Delicious cannoli with sweet ricotta, tart pastries made with fresh berries, and delicious cream cakes topped with fresh and exotic fruits like kiwi, mango, and pineapple—you really can’t go wrong here. And with most of the small pastries costing less than €0.50, it would just be wrong not to try almost all of them.

Pastries €0.20-2.50. Open M-Tu 7am-9:30pm, Th-Su 7am-9:30pm.

AL GELONE

GELATO $

V. Giuseppe Puglisi Bertolino, 23

091 36 36 04

You know what you need? Gelato. Obviously. So go to Al Gelone. Venture a little beyond P. Sturzo, and you’ll be rewarded with some fresh, delicious (and cheap!) gelato. Modern quirkiness at its finest, the bright colors, neon spoon decor, and tables in the shape of giant spoons are something to look at. If you can bear to look away from the large selection of gelato, that is.

On the right wall as you enter, there’s a giant picture of a chef magically pointing with his finger as fresh ingredients swirl about. Which, okay, is a little weird, but this gelato is pretty damn magical. We think that’s the message of the mural.

Flavors range from fresh pistachio to coffee where you can still taste the grounds to anise because why the hell not. Cones are cheap, at €2 for a medium, so don’t be afraid to ask for two flavors. If you want something a little lighter and more refreshing, head to the counter on the far end for some granita, which is like ice cream but made with water instead of cream, meaning it will quench your thirst a little better. So we think you should just have both. Order, pay, then take your gelato, sit on one of the white stools filled with sand (really, don’t ask questions—it’s modern art) and enjoy the loveliness of smooth, cold gelato that you just have to devour before it melts all over you. The brain freeze is worth it.

Gelato €1.50-3. Open daily 11am-1am.

ANTICA FOCACCERIA SAN FRANCESCO

STREET FOOD, RISTORANTE $$

V. Alessandro Paternostro 58

091 32 02 64

www.anticafocacceria.it

Since 1834, Antica Focacceria San Francesco has been serving up delicious street food in a charming little cobblestone piazza next to a church. For five generations, this restaurant has seen everyone from weary travelers to hungry locals to mob bosses to carabinieri at its doorstep. But nothing has stopped this family from making some of the best food in Palermo.

Enjoy the rustic charm of the enormous brown and gold doors, walk by the kitchen where all the magic happens, and take a seat outside where you can admire the prettiness of old Sicilian buildings and churches outside. Then get ready to feast.

The menu is divided into two parts: the street food and the food for fancy shmancy travelers (which is still reasonably priced). As far as street food goes, try some of the delicious and filling arancini, fried rice balls filled with meat and cheese in a way that will almost make you never want to eat regular off-the-street arancini again. There’s also unsurprisingly focaccia at this focacceria, which is a type of Italian flatbread that can be filled with tomatoes and cheeses.

If eating street food in a sit down restaurant is a little too crazy, there’s also a great selection of pastas and seafood. Try the rigatoni, which is al dente at its perfection. You also can’t go wrong with anything plus sardines in Palermo.

Street food €3-4. Entrees €8-15. Open daily 11am-12am.

NIGHTLIFE

NOGA WINE BAR

WINE BAR

V. dei Chiavettieri

Located on the popular V. dei Chiavettieri, which is lined with bars, Noga Wine Bar stands out. Walk by during aperitivo hours and you’ll see that this place has the perfect mixture of ambient street seating and delicious, generous portions of aperitivo food. How could you pass it up?

The waiters are the perfect mixture of helpful and sassy. If you ask for a menu, they’ll probably inform you that they are the menu. Know some good aperitvo drinks off the back of your hand. Can’t decide? Spritz is always a safe option. Or if you’re feeling a little classier, this is a wine bar. Ask a waiter for their recommendations on the best wine.

After you buy your drink, congratulations. You’ve gained entrance to an amazing aperitvo buffet. Try delicacies ranging from rice with salmon to those little rolled up hot dogs that Italians seem to love so much. The food is very well done and much better than the chips and peanuts you might get in America. Chickpeas and bread, grilled eggplants, salads with olives—if you aren’t careful, this place turns into dinner. Call it a chiusitivo instead.

The drinks are delicious, the aperitivo is reasonably priced, and the seating on V. dei Chiavettieri (since there isn’t much room inside the actual bar) will give you the perfect chance to people watch. And laugh at how measly everyone else’s aperitivo seems. You are so winning right now.

Drinks €5-8. M-F 6pm-2am, Sa 6pm-3am, Su 6pm-2am.

AI BOTTAI

PUB

V. Bottai, 62

091 774 67 86

As you cross V. dei Chiavettieri onto V. Bottai in your late night Palermo adventures where crossing streets is a life threatening sport, you’ll stumble into an enormous crowd sitting, talking, and singing in the streets. Welcome to Ai Bottai.

A lively pub in Palermo, there’s always something happening here. Football game, live music, wild Tuesday night—everything’s a reason to celebrate. This place is popular, so crowds usually fill the area on Friday and Saturday nights. Try to snag a table to meet some of the friendliest bartenders in the area while downing delicious drinks. If that’s as impossible as getting laid in Palermo (… not your best odds), just stand.

Most of the time, you won’t even see the bar inside, since everyone prefers to hang out on the pedestrian-only road here. TVs are set up outside during game days; otherwise some jazzy music may blast. Either way, the traffic here is always astonishing. Try one of the drinks, and you’ll begin to understand why. With good beers, great cocktails (some even colored to look like the Italian flag!), and reasonable prices, this is one of the go-to pubs in Palermo. Ravers will be disappointed, but if you just crave some company and crowds, wiggle yourself in here. Because everyone needs some close human contact + alcohol every now and then.

Drinks €4-8. Open daily 4pm-3am.

VUCCIRIA

MARKETPLACE

Off V. Roma, near V. Argenteria area.

As bustling as the vucciria, or marketplaces, are in the morning, a different sort of crowd fills them up on weekend nights. Fish stands give way to burgers and beer stands, and the shoppers leave to make room for students looking to turn up. Popular among the youth in Palermo for their large open spaces, loud music, and, of course, cheap, cheap beer, if you’re looking for a fun night out with your friends, hit up a marketplace

For some good fun, head to the aptly-named marketplace, Vucciria. Here, crowds gather for late-night food as stands pop up and cook meat right in front of you, filling the streets with a hazy, delicious smoke. Get at us, smoke machines in discos. Plenty of bars line this area, so as the night progresses, the crowd gets rowdier and takes up much of the square behind the marketplace as well. Everyone mingles as music blasts, and no one really knows what bar they’re at, but that just sounds like an ideal Friday night.

LA CHAMPAGNERIA DEL MASSIMO

WINE BAR

V. Salvatore Spinuzza, 59

091 33 57 30

For a wild night of drama, intrigue, and fun fun fun, go to Teatro Massimo. Then take a sharp turn and head straight for the bars. In case operas don’t seem like your ideal wild night out, Palermo’s got you covered. Right outside the theater are plenty of bars filled with people who have found a different kind of entertainment: good alcohol. Now that’s where the party starts.

Head to La Champagneria Del Massimo, which is steps outside the theater, and welcome to a boozy haven. You just have to try to act a little classy. As a wine bar, there’s always an incredible selection of wine (and other, stronger drinks) lining the walls inside. Bottles on bottles on bottles. On almost every wall. Challenge accepted.

If you wanna be a champagne master, you’ve gotta catch ‘em all (or something like that). Come here and walk inside, where you’ll be met by a classy wooden bar surrounded by wine bottles and wine glasses hanging from the ceiling. If you come in the evening, you’ll make aperitivo hours. Grab a glass of something (it’ll probably be good) and enjoy the wonders of free food with any alcohol purchase. Come by at night, and you’ll see a little more fun. A popular place to come and drink, people fill up these tables, bathe in the kindness and generosity of the owners and servers, and drink away. Though a quieter, calmer place to spend the night, it’s in the area of some rowdier bars and clubs if your wine tasting adventure goes a little crazy. It happens.

Drinks €6-10. Open M-Sa 9am-3am.

DON CHISCIOTTE

CLUB

V. Candelai 52/54

349 59 23 650

Plenty of places have loud music blasting on V. Candelai. Don Chisciotte actually has a dance floor to go along with it. Success. Walk into a bright, neon-lit room with an enormous bar on the left. You can grab a drink of anything that you need to get you to start dancing. The art here will be trying to get the bartender to hear you over the bar’s own deafening music.

After a couple shots, turn your attention to the right. The doorway opens up to one of the larger dance floors in Palermo. There’s no lighting except for some strobe lights, which are covered up by the smoke machine. Is there anyone else here? Nobody really knows.

If you come by too early (i.e., midnight), the dance floor is still prepared for you, with benches along the sidelines where you can sit and check out the sexy shadows coming and going into the room until the place turns a little rowdier. Twerking might not be everyone’s favorite activity at this bar, but since it is one of the few places in Palermo with a legitimate dance floor, if any young Italians want to dance, they’ll probably end up here by the end of the night. So take a seat, go slightly deaf from all the electronic beats, and when the party gets a little more turnt up (or you get a little more turnt up), do that smoke and neon light some justice and hit the dance floor with some sweet moves that no one will ever really see.

Drinks €5-8. Open daily 6pm-2am.

ESSENTIALS

Practicalities

• POST OFFICE: Mail is handled by Poste Italia. The central post office is at V. Roma 320 (open M-Sa 8:20am-7:05pm).

• INTERNET: Wi-Fi can be hard to find outside of your hotel. Check for cafes or restaurants that offer complimentary Wi-Fi.

Emergency

• EMERGENCY NUMBERS: The emergency number in Italy is 112 for police, fire department, and ambulances.

• PHARMACIES: Look for a big green “+” sign anywhere, and you’ll find a pharmacy. Late-night pharmacies can be a little difficult to find. Closed pharmacies will usually list where the nearest open pharmacies are.

Getting There

Falcone–Borsellino Airport is the airport in Palermo. Transport from the airport to the city is easily done by the Prestia Comandé bus, which costs around €6-7 and departs from the airport every 30min. and goes to Stazione Centrale, the main train station in Palermo. If you arrive by ferry, the bus 139, which stops right outside the port, will take you from the port to Stazione Centrale.

Getting Around

Palermo is a mammoth of a city, but the main tourist area between the train station and Politeama is walkable. The main bus stations are at Stazione Centrale (where you can also catch trains heading to other cities), Piazza Independenzia, and Piazza Sturzo. Bus tickets cost €1.40 and can be bought in Tabaccherie.

syracuse

From the tiny cobblestone streets in the island of Ortigia to the sprawling ruins in the archaeological park to gorgeous sunsets by the ocean, Syracuse has all the charm you could ask for in a small Italian town. And then there’s the food. All the delicious cannoli, gelato, and signature pizzolo will keep your stomach satisfied. Should you hunger for some knowledge and history, this ancient town of Archimedes will take care of you with its museums and sites.

To orient yourself, start at the train and bus station, where you’ll probably be arriving. From here, always head east. (There’s nothing but sunsets and cowboys in the west.) The main street, Corso Umberto, will take you anywhere you’d like to go. Follow it to Corso Gelone to get to the archaeological park or keep heading straight and to get to the bridge that leads to the island of Ortigia and the old part of the city. Here, the winding narrow roads lead into beautiful open piazze like Piazza del Archimede and the famous Piazza del Duomo. Walk in any direction long enough and you’ll reach the bluest water over which you can watch breathtaking sunsets.

SIGHTS

DUOMO DI SIRACUSA

CHURCH

Piazza Duomo

093 16 53 28

Enter the Piazza Duomo and its namesake will steal the scene. Always surrounded by paparazzi and always looking flawless, this celebrity cathedral is famous for a reason. First of all, it’s drop dead gorgeous. Soaring white Corinthian columns, large arched windows, towering statues. Could it be any more of a cathedral? Built in two different periods, this cathedral displays both Baroque and Rococo styles which come together in a gorgeous fluid façade that’s full of fun movement.

get a room!

LOLHOSTEL

HOSTEL $

V. Francesco Crispi 92-96

0931 465 088

www.lolhostel.com

Stay at LolHostel, and you can ROTFLOL at the prices everyone else is paying to stay in Syracuse. This is the only hostel in town, and if you’re a world weary backpacker, you’ll probably be staying here. But you can be assured that you won’t be complaining.

Located on the V. Crispi, you’ll be a minute away from the bus and train station that’ll bring you in and only 10-12min. away from the archaeological park and the city center in Ortigia, so you can #brb quite often. And it’s also right off Corso Umberto, which is full of delicious and cheap noms.

Walk in, and you’ll be greeted by friendly reception and given a map with more recommendations than you’ll be able to cope with. On the ground floor is a fully functional IKEA-esque kitchen where you’ll assure yourself you’ll cook once you get the motivation to go to a supermarket (so probably never). There’s also a lounge with fluorescent colored chairs and a full bar next to the kitchen that serves the cheapest drinks around. Complimentary breakfast is served every morning, and if you’re up before 11am, make sure you go because delicious pastries. Take some marmalade-filled cornetti out to the garden, and it will be one of your better morning experiences.

All the bedrooms are located upstairs. The 20-bed loft is an impressive feat, but the eight-bed rooms are also large and spacious. With windows on the ceiling, the rooms can be a little dimly lit, but everyone looks better in dim lighting. The beds are standard, but the blankets are ridiculously soft.

The hostel caters to a young student crowd but isn’t much of a party hostel, so you might have to be the party sometimes. But still, after a busy night in Ortigia, the walk back will never be bad, and you’ll <3 being able to stay here. Maybe even <4.

Dorms €20-23. Reception 24hr. May-Aug.

The statues outside start with St. Peter on the lower left, St. Paul on the lower right, San Marciano, the first bishop of Syracuse on the upper left, Santa Lucia, the patron saint of Syracuse on the upper right, and everyone’s favorite virgin who isn’t you in the center. Take a walk through the columns to see the inside. Remember to be modestly dressed and then pay a modest fee – it’s all about the modesty in here. Except for the ridiculously elaborate doors with their swirling columns. Did we mention that this cathedral has got some good moves?

Once you step in, however, you’ll see the Duomo’s most famous secret: it was once an ancient Greek temple. Large stone arches line both sides of the nave giving it an ancient feel. Probably because it is ancient. The Duomo is built on an ancient doric temple to Athena. According to Cicero, this used to be a gorgeous marble and gold temple to the virgin goddess (still not you). Athena’s shield once graced the doors in bright gold and helped ships navigating from afar. Good goddess Athena.

Much like many ancient temples, it became repurposed as a Christian church and this one now celebrates another virgin. The old columns of the temple were reused providing quite a physical link between the past and the present. The main altar displays more beautiful white Corinthian columns and a painting of the Virgin with child. Walk around the main nave then take a look inside the little chapels. There is small but beautiful one dedicated to Santa Lucia. And before you leave, be sure to look down as you’re walking around as well. There are some great mosaics that might even floor you.

Admission €2. Open daily 7:30am-7:30pm.

THE ARCHAEOLOGICAL PARK OF SYRACUSE

ARCHAEOLOGY

Entrance at intersection of Corso Gelone and Via Paolo Orsi

If you like old shit, you’re in the right country. And if you’re in Syracuse, get your ass over to the Archaeological Park. A vast area filled with ancient Greek and Roman ruins, this is a place no history buff or saw-300-and-got-really-excited-kind-of-person can miss.

About a 10-min walk from the new city or 20-min if you’re posh enough to stay in Ortigia, head up and once you start seeing wheat fields and such you’re either stuck in the Gladiator movie, or you’ve arrived. The strangely difficult to find ticket office is located past all the souvenir shops by the bus parking area. It may cost you a pretty penny, but if you plan on visiting the Archaeological Museum as well, buy a combined ticket and save some euros.

The entrance to the park is right across the street. The first couple stops are actually free and open to the public. Turn left after entering through the main gate and you’ll get to the ruins of a Roman amphitheater. See the giant stone ruins pop up through the overgrown field and try to imagine what it would be like to watch people fight to the death here. Yeah, gladiator battles were weird. Walk down and as you avoid the large tour groups, you’ll see the Ara di Lerone on your left, which was used by the Greeks for animal sacrifices. Now largely in ruins, it’s still a pretty cool sight before you head into the ticketed area of the park.

Once you’re in, head down and the stone ruins will give way into a lush jungle of palm trees. Also the temperature will drop by like five degrees which is nice too. This is the Latomia del Paradiso. Once an ancient quarry site, it’s been filled with trees ever since and is now a beautiful paradise. Inside here you’ll find the Ear of Dionysus. Before you cry out that’s the strangest thing you’ve heard, calm down. It’s only a cave. A very pretty cave at that. In the shape of a very big ear and with incredible acoustics that you can try out for yourself, legend has it that the tyrant king Dionysus used to keep prisoners here so he could hear everything they said. We don’t know how the prisoners didn’t see it coming since they were being kept in a giant ear.

Head back up and out of the gardens and you’ll see the steps leading to the Greek theater. As one of the world’s largest, this is still indeed a functional theater where dramas are performed in the summer. An impressive 455 feet in diameter, it’s still surprisingly in tact. Used for plays in ancient days, the Romans weren’t always willing to put up with your drama so it was sometimes filled with water for mock sea battles. On a hot day, filling the theater with water doesn’t seem like a bad idea. Just saying.

€10. Combined ticket with museum €13.50. Open daily 9am until 2 hours before sunset

PAOLO ORSI REGIONAL ARCHAEOLOGICAL MUSEUM

MUSEUM

Viale Teocrito, 66

093 14 89 511

www.regione.sicilia.it/beniculturali/museopaoloorsi/

If the archaeological park wasn’t able to convince you of how much history Syracuse has, hit up the museum for a more air-conditioned tour of the past. Located about five minutes away from the park, the museum is in a beautiful little garden with swaying palm trees and all about dat Mediterranean life.

Walk in to a pretty modern museum with plenty of windows looking out at the funky Sanctuary of the Madonna of Tears and get ready to see more history than you’ll ever be ready for. The museum itself is divided into four major sections which like your grades go from A to D. The first section takes you way way back. Start with a geological foundation of Syracuse. Various rocks and some fossils of pygmy elephants make sure you realize what kind of island climate you’re dealing with. Also pygmy elephants are just fun. The section begins to challenge you when you claim how much you love pot, because holy shit there are a lot of pots here. Everything from potsherds to pots big enough that you could sit in them, you’re bound to find one pot you like.

Section B will take you a little further into history with the Greek colonies. Plenty of kouroi and korai, statues of young men and women, as well as beautiful remains from Greek temples. Along with a very silly gorgon. Section S is home to findings from Hellenized subcolonies aka more pots and some pretty statues. Section D will take you up and towards the height of sculpture in this museum.

Admire some flowing beards, expressive faces, and of course the beautiful Landolina Venus which apart from boobs is a very beautiful and delicate statue. While you’re up in D, be sure to walk around on the second floor to see the famous Sarcophagus of Adelphia. A marble sarcophagus that is a great example of art from late antiquity, this sarcophagus shows plenty of Biblical scenes using adorable little figures in the sarcophagus, and with Christianity wraps up our long trek through the ancient world in this museum that has proved to you that history is cool. And that people used a shit ton of pots.

€8. Combined ticket with park €13.50. Tu-Sa 9am-6pm, Su 9am-1pm.

PIAZZA DUOMO

SQUARE

Piazza Duomo

There’s nothing quite like being lost in the tiny alleys and streets in Ortigia only to have the road open up to the breathtaking Piazza del Duomo. Considered one of the more beautiful piazze in Italy by, well, anyone who has actually visited it, Piazza del Duomo will take you in with its irregular but fascinating semioval shape filled with twisting Baroque buildings and of course the Duomo itself and make you fall in love with a square that isn’t your first boyfriend.

The most eye-catching building of all is the Duomo, a stunning cathedral built out of a Greek temple to Athena. High Corinthian columns, large arched windows, gorgeous statues, and great steps to sit on and watch Syracuse pass you by.

Next to the Duomo on the left is the Archbishop’s Palace, which is sadly not open to the public. Thanks a lot, archbishop. Across on the right is the Palazzo Beneventano dal Bosco, a rather boxish but still beautiful baroque palace with large rectangular windows. In the furthest end of the piazza is the Church of Santa Lucia alla Badia which, with its high white façade and columns is yes, also baroque (with a touch of rococo). You might be seeing a trend here. There are many restaurants and bars in this area as well, but as a well-travelled backpacker you’ll realize that famous piazza aren’t the best places to get deals.

So grab some gelato from the side streets and then come sit here. Enjoy the over the top whimsy, the not quite straight up and down, and the large arches and windows of the baroque and rococo. Huzzah.

FOOD

LA VOGLIA MATTA

GELATO $

C. Umberto I, 34

093 16 71 18

Let’s be real. The #1 reason you’ve come to Italy? History, beaches, the gorgeous men? Nope. Even better: gelato. So when you’re in Syracuse, be sure to hit up one of the best gelaterias in town…like, a couple times a day. La Voglia Matta: translated as “The Crazy Desire,” it pretty much sums up all your feelings about gelato. Come in and let your dreams be realized.

Located right on Corso Umberto and just minutes before the bridge to Ortigia, stop here for a cone to make your entrance onto the beautiful island even sweeter. You’ll probably have tp walk by the counter a couple times before you can come up with the winning combination of the many flavors on hand. With everything from classic lemon and pistachio to Kinder, all these are artisanal and handmade gelati. To act like a true Italian, get the ricotta penne and ciocolato nero, which is ricotta with sweet fruit and dark chocolate (it’s a specialty of this gelateria).

La Voglia Matta also sells delicious espresso if you need a wake up shot. There aren’t a whole lot of places to sit in the small shop, but try to snag one from the collection of white tables inside. Otherwise, take your gelato and go. Walk across the bridge to Ortigia, take look at the water below, and enjoy the beauty of gelato. And Syracuse, too.

Gelato €2-5. Open daily 9am-2pm, 4pm-midnight.

BAR MIDOLO

BAR $

C. Umberto I, 86

093 16 80 46

Pizza. Arancini. Cannoli. All in one place? With everything you’ve ever wanted from Italy under the same roof, we’re pretty sure Bar Midolo is some small bar form of heaven. In an unassuming storefront on a corner of Corso Umberto, at Bar Midolo you’ll find a line of locals waiting for anything from morning coffee to a fast lunch to some delicious pastries. Join them. Take a walk inside and browse the counters lined with delicious Italian treats, like various kinds of arancini—little but surprisingly filling rice balls stuffed with ragu, cheese, and all other kinds of savory goodness. We recommend the arancini prosciutto.

Though known for its arancini, Bar Midolo also sells various types of delicious pizza and other bready treats, all for extremely reasonable prices. If you have more of a sweet tooth, go to the counter right by the pizzas and find a delectable selection of dolce: small fruit tarts, little pies with nuts, and, of course, cannoli.

Bar Midolo has some of the best and cheapest cannolis in all of Syracuse. As if you needed an excuse to buy a cannoli here. Try the little ones. They’re like two bites of pure deliciousness, and you can pop them in your mouth as you walk around Ortigia. And so, for a quick lunch and dessert, be sure to do as the locals do and pop into Bar Midolo. Then come back here for your three mandatory afternoon snacks. You need that energy, after all.

Pizza and arancine €1-2.50. Pastries €0.50-1. Open daily 6am-11pm.

NIGHTLIFE

IL SALE

BAR

V. Amalfitania 56

093 14 83 666

In a small alley off a small alley in Syracuse, Il Sale is about as Ortigia as you can get. Look for the chalkboard advertising drinks and live music on V. Amalfitania and take the narrow path leading you up. You’ll emerge victorious in a gorgeous, cavernous bar.

Rock hewn and more stoned than you’ll ever be (hopefully), this large bar charms with its cave-like appearance. There’s outdoor seating on a rocky platform and plenty of locals gather here to sit at tables, grab a drink, and talk the night away.

The lights are low while jazzy music plays, and it’s casual and peaceful here, tucked away from the busy P. del Duomo.

The interior is swanky, with a shiny bar and an eye-catching display of liquors. Cocktails here are a little on the pricier side, which might be why people here don’t drink to get tipsy. Though full of people, this isn’t a wild bar but is instead a charming, ambient place to stop by with a friend or two and talk about how much you love Syracuse. Because, really, what else is there to talk about in Syracuse?

Drinks €5-10. Open M-Th 7pm-3am, F-Sa 7pm-4am, Su 7pm-3am.

PUB LES CREPES

PUB

9 V. Maniace

www.lescrepespub.altervista.org

Hungry? Of course you are. This Saturday night, combine your two favorite things—beer and chocolate—by coming to Pub Les Crepes. Bright orange walls, wooden tables, and Nutella. Perfection. A quiet but delicious place to start the night, take a seat on a bar stool and ogle the crepe choices. Anything from a sweet Nutella and Baileys to a more savory Salmon and Philadelphia cream cheese, we never said choices on wild nights out were going to be easy.

Service is friendly, the food is great, and the cozy and casual atmosphere will make you feel no shame as you get melted chocolate gooeyness all over your turn-down-for-what clothes. No one will notice in the dark anyway. And the prices? Mmm—delectable.

So after you finish your third crepe, turn your attention to the adorable wooden bar with teapots on it. Oh, and it’s also lined with liquor. As one of the cheaper places to get a shot or a cocktail, we recommend you spend a decent amount of time here before heading out to some of the classier places in Ortigia. If you’re feeling brave, go for the tequila shots. Otherwise a small beer will run you up €3 or so.

Come with your friends, eat crepes, drink some €5 cocktails. If you’re feeling adventurous, ask about table games like Taboo that you can rent out (in Italian, of course—it’ll be a learning experience). And after you’ve had your fill of delicious food, bright walls, and wooden tables, head out for the night to somewhere grungier. Or maybe somewhere with more late night food. Pick your own adventure.

Crepes €4.50. Shots €3-5. Beer €2.50-4. Cocktails €5. Open Tu-Su 9pm-2am. Open for lunch M-F 12:30-3pm.

DAIQUIRI LOUNGE

BAR

Piazza Duomo

320 785 71 29

And sometimes, when you’re by the Duomo on a Saturday night, you just need a little advance on your Eucharist. Come to Daiquiri. A wine and cocktail bar right in P. Duomo, this swanky bar will make drinking on some steps look downright classy.

If you haven’t noticed yet, Taormina’s kind of on a mountain. Steep inclines and rock hewn stairs make up most of the side streets. While you might be sure that this geography stands to fuck you over, Daiquiri uses it to its advantage. Located on some large stone steps leading up from P. Duomo, to get a seat, you’ll have to back that ass up onto one of the luxurious white cushioned chairs or couches with sleek white tables set out on the stairs themselves.

The interior of the bar is pretty much just the bar itself. Most people who come here find a table outside and enjoy the beautiful view of the Duomo at night. Catering to a slightly posh crowd (i.e., everyone in Taormina), you’ll have to wear a dress or put on some slacks if you want to come here. Don’t worry, drinks here are relatively cheap by local standards, so trying to look nice will pay off.

Listen to jazzy music, enjoy the comfy white chairs, and try some of the delicious drinks. This place never gets crazy, but it’s a good place to chill after a day at the beach.

Drinks €4-8. Open daily 7pm-3am.

ESSENTIALS

Practicalities

• POST OFFICES: Mail is handled by Poste Italia. Postcards and letters from Greece to outside Europe cost €0.85. The central post office is at P. Riva della Posta right across the bridge into Ortigia (open M-F 8:20am-7:05pm, Sa 8:20am-12:35pm).

• INTERNET: Wi-Fi can be hard to find outside of your hotel. Check for cafes or restaurants that offer complimentary Wi-Fi. There is free Wi-Fi from the city available outside the Tempio di Apollo in Ortigia.

Emergency

• EMERGENCY NUMBERS: The emergency number in Italy is 112 for police, fire department, and ambulances. More specific numbers are listed below.

• POLICE: 113

• AMBULANCE SERVICE: 118

• FIRE BRIGADE: 115

• PHARMACIES: Look for a big green “+” sign anywhere, and you’ll find a pharmacy. Late night pharmacies stay open on a rotating basis. Check www.comune.siracusa.it/index.php/it/ farmacie to find out which ones are open overnight.

Getting There

The closest airport to Syracuse is Catania. From Catania, you can take an AST or Interbus regional bus that will take you from the airport to Syracuse for around €6.

Getting Around

Luckily for you, Syracuse is not a big town. From the bus station to the island of Ortigia takes about 15min. walking, and the Archaeological Park to Ortigia takes about 20min. There are no cars allowed on Ortigia, so your best bet in Syracuse all around will be walking.

BEYOND TOURISM

If you stopped reading after the “eat” part of Eat, Pray, Love and are planning to stay in Italy for a while, then you’re in the right place.

STUDY

• UNIVERSITY OF BOLOGNA: University of Bologna is considered the oldest university in continuous operation, and it lives up to its motto: “Nourishing mother of studies.” (www.unibo.it/it)

• SAPIENZA UNIVERSITY: With its main campus close to the heart of Rome, Sapienza is a city within a city, so you’ll have no trouble finding anything you need. (http://en.uniroma1.it)

• UNIVERSITY OF PISA: Dating back to 1343, the University of Pisa is yet another world-class university where you’ll be in good company, surrounded by figures both modern and historic, from Galileo and some Medici to Rubbia and Bombieri. (www.unipi.it/index.php/english)

• LAZZARETTO NUOVO: Join a summer field school to learn about archaeological techniques, metallurgy, plaster and painting techniques, and more. (www.lazzarettonuovo.com)

• SYRACUSE UNIVERSITY FLORENCE: Syracuse University offers a myriad of programs both at its own independent Center in Florence and through Italian universities in Florence; programs include language, culinary, architectural, and studio art options. (http://suabroad.syr.edu/destinations/florence)

• ST. MARY’S COLLEGE IN ROME: The semester-long Rome Program is best suited to sophomores with some Italian language skills, though others may apply. Participants in the program get a broad range of instruction in everything from Italian art history to international business, philosophy to Italian literature. Some of this instruction happens on site in museums. (www.saintmarys.edu/departments/modern-languages/study-abroad-programs/rome-italy)

• WILLIAM & MARY SUMMER PROGRAM: The College of William & Mary offers two summer programs in Italy, one in Florence and one in Sicily. (http://www.wm.edu)

• SARAH LAWRENCE COLLEGE: Sarah Lawrence’s two Italy programs (one in Florence, one in Catania) are distinct from other study abroad programs because of their “emphasis on small discussion seminars and individual conferences.” (www.slc.edu/international-exchange)

VOLUNTEER

• LEGAMBIENTE: Work in Lombardy on land conservation and sustainable living with this Italian environmental organization. (http://lombardia.legambiente.it)

• MAGENTA FLORENCE: Magenta is a “creative space for English-language interns in Florence” that offers exciting internships for those interested in photography and editing. Internships are open-ended and can involve conducting interviews, attending press conferences, and producing the magazine Vista. (www.magentaflorence.com/magenta/internship)

• THE AMERICAN WOMEN’S ASSOCIATION OF ROME: This organization’s members volunteer with a wide range of programs throughout the community. Check out the website for inspiration; this is a good place to explore potential volunteer opportunities. (www.awar.org/volunteer.php)

• MEYER HOSPITAL: This pediatric hospital in Florence has eight outside volunteer associations you can choose from to help enrich the lives of children and their families. (www.meyer.it)

• DYNAMO CAMP: Dyanmo Camp is a place for children with serious/chronic illnesses to experience a fun, supportive camp community in the Italian countryside. (www.dynamocamp.org/en)

• ASSOCIAZIONE TUMORI TOSCANA: This association offers free home care to cancer patients in and around Tuscany. (http://associazionetumoritoscana.it)

• PROGETTO ARCOBALENO: If you are near Florence and want to help immigrants, the impoverished, and victims of trafficking, check out this organization. (www.progettoarcobaleno.it)

• WWOOF: An organization that connects you with organic farms where you can work in exchange for room and board. (www.wwoof.net)

• LA FAULA: Help out in the vegetable garden or with the grape harvest and get room and board free. Volunteers must stay at least six weeks. (www.faula.com/voluntee.php)

WORK

As a member of the EU, Italy requires a fair amount of paperwork and red tape for foreigners to be able to work legally.

• TORRI SUPERIORE ECOVILLAGE: Tori Superiore is a fully functioning ecovillage and cultural center. In the summer months, you can do a full work exchange, pitching a tent for free in exchange for helping out in the guesthouse and around the village. (www.torri-superiore.org)

• BRITISH INSTITUTES: You need to know Italian well to work here as an English teacher. (www.britishinstitutes.it/index.php/sections/lavora-con-noi)

italy essentials

MONEY

To use a debit or credit card to withdraw money from an ATM (Bancomat in Italian), you must have a four-digit Personal Identification Number (PIN). If your PIN is longer than four digits, ask your bank whether you can use the first four or if they’ll issue you a new one. If you intend to hit up ATMs in Europe with a credit card, call your credit card company before your departure to request a PIN.

The use of ATM cards is widespread in Italy. The two major international money networks are MasterCard/Maestro/Cirrus and Visa/PLUS. Most ATMs charge a transaction fee, but some Italian banks waive the withdrawal surcharge.

In Italy, a 5% tip is customary, particularly in restaurants (10% if you especially liked the service). Italian waiters won’t cry if you don’t leave a tip; just be ready to ignore the pangs of your conscience later on. Taxi drivers expect tips as well, but luckily for oenophiles, it is unusual to tip in bars. Bargaining is appropriate in markets and other informal settings, though in regular shops it is inappropriate. Hotels will often offer lower prices to people looking for a room that night, so you will often be able to find a bed cheaper than what is officially quoted.

SAFETY AND HEALTH

Local Laws and Police

In Italy, you will mainly encounter two types of boys in blue: the polizia (113) and the carabinieri (112). The polizia are a civil force under the command of the Ministry of the Interior, whereas the carabinieri fall under the auspices of the Ministry of Defense and are considered a military force. Both, however, generally serve the same purpose, to maintain security and order in the country. In the case of attack or robbery, both will respond to inquiries or desperate pleas for help.

Drugs and Alcohol

The legal drinking age in Italy is (drumroll please) 16. Remember to drink responsibly and to never drink and drive. Doing so is illegal and can result in a prison sentence, not to mention early death. The legal blood alcohol content (BAC) for driving in Italy is under 0.05%, significantly lower than the US limit of 0.08%.

Travelers with Disabilities

Travelers in wheelchairs should be aware that getting around in Italy will sometimes be extremely difficult. This country predates the wheelchair—sometimes it seems even the wheel—by several centuries and thus poses unique challenges to disabled travelers. Accessible Italy (378 941 111 www.accessibleitaly.com) offers advice to tourists of limited mobility heading to Italy, with tips on subjects ranging from finding accessible accommodations to wheelchair rental.