06 85 49 117CAFE, GELATERIA $
V. Bergamo 24
06 85 49 117
You’ve got class. But you’ve also got needs. Gelato needs. That’s why you should step inside Fassino and understand what true luxury feels like. Not only will this cafe satisfy all your “covered in cocoa powder and in a fancy cup” gelato cravings, but they’ll also take your beloved treat and reinvent it in all sorts of beautiful ways. Try the brivido caldo (gelato with a warm cookie in the center and topped with whipped cream) in the winter or the cioccarancio (dark chocolate and orange) in the summer. If you’ve come for lunch, the set menu (a crepe, drink, dessert, and coffee; €8.50) will make all your dreams come true, especially if you frequently dream about lunch.
From the end of V. XX Settembre, turn left onto V. Piave and walk until you hit P. Fiume. Turn right onto V. Bergamo. Gelat €2-5. Brivido Caldo €3 (winter only). Cocktails €4.50-5. Cash only. 
Open M-F 8am-midnight, Sa-Su 4:30pm-1am.
RISTORANTE DA GIOVANNI
RISTORANTE $$
V. Antonio Salandra 1A
06 48 59 50
With a giant sign hanging out over the street corner, Ristorante Da Giovanni makes sure that underground doesn’t mean hidden. Follow the lanterns down the stairs and past some old typewriters into this family-owned restaurant, where your hip vintage outfit will perfectly complement the old posters and handwritten menu. The restaurant can thank you later. But first try some of their homemade classic dishes, like the fettuccine, roast veal, or cacio e pepe, and admire the recipes that have been in use for over 50 years.
From P. della Repubblica, walk up V. Vittorio Emanuele Orlando, turn right onto V. XX Settembre, then left onto V. Antonio Salandra. Primi €6-7. Secondi €5-14. Open M-Sa noon-3pm and 7-10:30pm.
Northern Rome
Because Northern Rome is primarily residential, dining out tends to be pricey. Your best bet is to pack a picnic and eat it in one of the lovely gardens.
FRATELLI FABIO E ROBERTO STAROCCIA
CAFE $
V. Sicilia 121
06 48 84 986
Starocia Lunch Bar is a great place to make up for all those calories you lost walking in the Villa Borghese. And you might as well make up for future calories you were going to lose anyway. With enormous portions of panini or pasta and anything from cocktails to coffee, Starocia’s will be sure to leave you with enough calories to last at least until happy hour at 6pm. And with its modern, black-and-white decor and sleek bar stools, this cafe turned bar at night will take you away from the classically themed villas and galleries you’ve been visiting and help you fit in with that young, hip crowd that comes in after lunchtime for drinks.
Walking south on V. Po (away from the Villa Borghese) and turn right onto V. Sicilia. Tramezzini and panini €1.60-3.50. Pasta and secondi €4-7. Coffee €1-2. Cocktails €5-6. Happy hour buffet €4, with wine €6. Cash only. Open M-Sa 5:15am-9:30pm. Happy hour M-Sa 6pm.
TREE BAR
CAFE $$
V. Flaminia 226
06 32 65 27 54
Your wanderings on the concrete desert of V. Flaminia seem endless. The sun beats down, your water supply is running out, and the trams have scared away your camel. Then a little green oasis filled with your dreams of delicious pasta and countless wine options rises up through the haze: you’ve reached Tree Bar. With wooden panels and glass, this tree house, inspired by Japanese architecture, is a sight for weary travelers. Jazzy music blasts out as crowds gather on the patio to eat dinner or grab a drink as children play soccer in the nearby plaza. Sheltered by trees and park benches, this is a perfect place to stop for a drink or some fettuccine while reminiscing about that tree house you never actually had.
B: Flaminio. Walk about 25min. up V. Flaminia or take tram #2 to Belle Arti. Primi and secondi €4-15. Beer €3-5. Wine €5-7. Open M 6pm-2am, Tu-Su 10:30am-2am.
IL MARGUTTA RISTORARTE
VEGETARIAN $$
V. Margutta 118
06 32 65 05 77
Being vegetarian (or vegan!) is so in right now. Il Margutta RistorArte completely agrees. Unleash your artsy side by dining in what is practically a modern art museum filled with comfy black couches and white tablecloths to accommodate all your non-meat needs. Anything from detox teas to delicious pastas is available at this enormous restaurant, which takes up almost an entire block. Its colorful paintings, fancy decor, and tempting dishes will make anyone consider being vegetarian—even if it’s just for one meal. .
A: Flaminio. From Ple. Flaminia, walk into P. del Popolo and veer left onto V. del Babuino. Walk 5min. and turn left onto the small alley street, V. Margutta. Primi €10-12. Secondi €10-15. Open daily 12:30-3:30pm and 7-11:30pm.
Testaccio and Ostiense
Testaccio is known among Roman residents as one of the city’s best spots for high-quality, reasonably priced food. Its location farther from the sights means fewer tourists have caught on. Whether you want an upscale restaurant or a cheap trattoria, you’ll have no trouble finding it here.
IL NOVECENTO
RISTORANTE $$$
V. dei Conciatori 10
06 57 25 04 45
Homemade? Bitch, please. Il Novecento will change your perception of homemade family food. Step inside the dark wood paneled restaurant, past the dressers and bookshelves, and you’ll find yourself right at home. If your home is full of delicious Italian food being made right before your very eyes, that is. With cooks rolling out pizza dough and cutting up pasta, your delicate art of making PB&Js may pale in comparison. But it’s okay. Your family might not be a line of cooks, but you do specialize in eating pizza and roasted meats—a perfect match of skill sets here.
B: Piramide. Walk down V. Ostiense and turn right onto V. dei Conciatori. Pizza €5-9. Primi €9-10. Secondi €12-18. Open M-F 12:30-2:30pm and 7:30-11pm, Sa-Su 7:30-11pm.
FARINANDO
PIZZERIA, BAKERY $
V. Lucca della Robbia 30
06 57 50 674
You can twerk those calories away at night. Right now, you need some cookies, and Fairinando can help with that. With everything from pastries dripping in chocolate to coconut macaroons to cookies filled with fruity jams whose names that one Italian lesson you saw on YouTube didn’t cover. If you’re craving something more like pizza, well, have the pizza. Loaded with toppings and fired in a huge wood-burning oven, the pies here make it easy to indulge yourself here. Remember, you still live in a world dictated by #yolo.
B: Piramide. Walk up V. Marmorata. Turn left onto V. Galvani and right onto V. Lucca della Robbia. Calzone €3. Pizza tonda €4-6, €7-16 per kg. Pastries €16-22 per kg. Open M-F 8am-2:10pm and 4:30-8:30pm, Sa 5-9pm.
LA MAISON DE L’ENTRECÔTE
RISTORANTE, ENOTECA $$$
P. Gazometro 1
06 57 43 091
So it’s not what you expected when your date said he’d take you to Paris for dinner. But it’s good enough. With a bohemian Paris theme, Le Maison’s stained glass lamps, French music, and vintage mirrors will carry you away to a time and place you secretly don’t know anything about. But you do know about eating, and the classic French dishes, such as cheesy onion soup, paired with Italian gnocchi will have you falling in love with the food (if not with your date). Guys are great, but trust us—transnational desserts like the crema gelato topped with Grand Marnier are better.
B: Ostiense. Walk down V. Marmorata away from Piramide for 5min. and turn right onto P. Gazometro. Salad €5-7. Primi €8-10. Meats €7-15. Beer €4. Cocktails €6. Wine by the bottle €12-16. Cash only. Open Tu-Th 1-3pm and 8pm-midnight, F-Sa 8pm-midnight.
OSTERIA DEGLI AMICI
RISTORANTE $$$
V. Nicola Zabaglia 25
06 57 81 466
It’s okay. You don’t really need amici. All you need is some of Osteria degli Amici’s hot saffron risotto sprinkled with smoked Scamorza cheese and drizzled in balsamic vinegar. Served in an old-fashioned restaurant, with those wooden chairs, black and white photos, and arched doors that make everything look old-fashioned, this restaurant can be your new best friend with its delicious pasta, large wine selection, and chocolate soufflés for dessert. Friendship is sweet.
B: Piramide. Walk up V. Marmorata, turn right onto V. Luigi Vanvitelli, and turn left onto V. Nicola Zabaglia. Primi €7-9. Secondi €12-18. Open W-Su 12:30-3pm and 7:30pm-midnight.
Southern Rome
LI RIONI
PIZZERIA $$
V. dei Santi Quattro 24
06 70 45 06 05
So you’re something of a pizza connoisseur. We get it. We won’t just send you to cheap pizzerias that you’ll probably drunkenly stumble into later anyway. So head over to Li Rione. Open only for dinner (or, you know, a really, really late brunch), this place, much like you, specializes in pizza. With dishes like the prato fiorito pizza (made with fresh mozzarella, mushrooms, peas, sausage, egg, and olives) served out on the patio or inside the large interior with 19th-century photographs, you can admire black-and-white pictures of the Colosseum while using your refined tastes to judge the pizza you’re devouring.
B: Colosseo. Take V. Nicola Salvi to V. Labicana. Turn right at P. San Clemente and walk to V. dei Santi Quattro. Pizza €4.80-8. Open M 7:30pm-midnight, W-Su 7pm-midnight.
OSTERIA IL BOCCONCINO
RISTORANTE $$$
V. Ostilia 23
06 77 07 91 75
An entrance lined with awards and amphorae. What’s not to love? Serving up classics using seasonal ingredients, Osteria Il Bocconcino will have you feeling nostalgic for those old Roman times you never actually knew. Rustic wooden chairs, vines lining the doorway, and classic dishes like rigatoni alla carbonara, polpette con sedano e cannella (meatballs with celeriac and cinnamon) will have you feeling like an emperor. The amphorae outside might be for show, but after eating here, you’ll realize that the awards are not.
B: Colosseo. Follow P. del Colosseo around to V. di San Giovanni in Laterano and turn right onto V. Ostilia. Primi €8-12. Secondi €11-14. Open M-Tu 12:30-3:30pm and 7:30-11:30pm, Th-Su 12:30-3:30pm and 7:30-11:30pm.
L’ARCHEOLOGIA
RISTORANTE $$$$
V. Appia Antica 139
06 78 80 494
You’re on the Appian Way and your wagon hasn’t fallen into a ditch yet. Time to celebrate. Unfortunately, unlike your pickup lines, nothing is cheap here. But at L’Archeologia, located at an ancient post station for horses, you can exchange your physical and intellectual hunger for some dinner served with a side of history. Located next to a mausoleum and above an ancient wine cellar (jeepers!), enjoy the ancient sites while dining on anything from fresh prawn to sirloin steak, which is indeed expensive, but it’s served in what special style? The Appian Way! (Cue pity laughter.)
Take bus #118 to the San Sebastiano stop. L’Archeologia is on the corner of V. Appia Antica and Vicolo della Basilica. Primi €13-16. Secondi €15-28. Open M 12:30-3pm and 8-11pm, W-Su 12:30-3pm and 8-11pm.
NIGHTLIFE
Don’t spend all your money and energy at the museums—Rome’s nightlife is varied and vast, giving you a whole separate itinerary to attack after the guards go home and the cats come out to prowl the ruins. Enoteche (wine bars, often with apertivi), which cater to those seeking high-quality drinks and low-key conversation, are especially prevalent in the Ancient City and Centro Storico. Irish pubs and American-style bars populate Trastevere, busy corsi, and the areas surrounding Termini. Upscale lounges are common around Piazza di Spagna, while anyone looking to rage should head to the discos in Testaccio. If the weather is warm, it’s easy to avoid cover fees and pricey cocktails by simply heading to the many busy piazze.
Ancient City
The Ancient Romans might have been known for bacchanalian orgies, but these days the wine bars that crowd the streets of Ancient City are Bacchus’s only heirs. These upscale places rarely reach orgasmic levels, but Irish pubs provide rowdier options.
SCHOLAR’S LOUNGE
IRISH PUB
V. del Plebiscito 101B
06 69 20 22 08
You’re an intellectual. So when you need to get schwasted, you do the smart thing and go to Scholar’s Lounge. Irish flags, a wooden interior, and nine enormous TVs make this the famous and rowdy bar in the area. Always packed and open late, Scholar’s is the place to head when all the other bars close at 2am and you still need to get your Thirsty Sunday going (just in time for karaoke!). Join all the studious students here, admire the impressive whiskey list, and drink up. You have brain cells to spare.
From P. Venezia, follow V. del Plebiscito to the intersection with V. del Corso. Karaoke Tu and Su. Live music Th-F. Student shot €1. Pints €4-6. Cocktails €8-10; during the day €5; student cocktails €5. Open daily 11am-3:30am. Happy hour until 8pm.
LIBRERIA CAFFÈ BOHEMIEN
CAFE
V. degli Zingari 36
33 97 22 46 22
And sometimes you are actually an intellectual. So when you need to discuss the intricacies of that Dickens novel you never finished, head to Libreria Caffè Bohemien. With dim lighting, chandeliers, a piano, and rows of bookshelves, this lounge is the perfect place to whip out your MacBook or to curl up on one of the Victorian couches with a glass of wine in hand. Enjoy the ambiance, the indie rock playing, and that hipster pride that comes with spending an elegant evening indoors while your peers make questionable life decisions in Campo di Fiori.
B: Cavour. From V. Cavour, turn right onto P. degli Zingari and left onto V. degli Zingari. Beer €3-5. Cocktails €5-6. Appetizers €6-10. Aperitivo buffet €8; with drink purchase €3. Open M 6pm-2am, W-Su 6pm-2am. Aperitivo buffet 7-9pm.
CAVOUR 313
ENOTECA
V. Cavour 313
06 67 54 96
Colosseum put you in a classy mood? Hit up Cavour 313. With over 100 varieties of wine and delicious meat plates ranging from hot salami to fish in olive oil, this place was made to cater to your classy needs. Act knowledgeable about wine and order the gorgonzola cheese with honey and the sweet Marsala wine (they complement each other!) or go for one of the savory meat plates with smoked hams, sun-dried tomatoes, and olives. The wooden booths offer more privacy than regular bars, so you can engage in whatever conversation classy people have (we’re guessing Trajan Column penis jokes).
Halfway up V. Cavour coming from V. dei Fori Imperiali. Wine €3.50-8. Meat plates €8-10. Mixed cheese plates €8-12. Open M-Sa 12:30-3:30pm and 7pm-midnight.
FINNEGAN PUB
BAR
V. Leonina 66
06 47 47 026
A rowdy Irish pub complete with a pool table, flat screen TVs, and drafts starting a €3—welcome home, expats. With a ceiling lined with international currency bills that are just out of your reach and walls with sports jerseys, people come here for two things: alcohol and sports. If you want less rowdy fun, come earlier in the evening to sip a Corona on the patio outside. But later at night, get ready for a drunken crowd who down their beers and spirits, but no cocktails—real Irishmen always drink it straight.
B: Cavour. Walk up V. Leonina. Live music F. Wine €3-5.50. Drafts €3-6. Spirits €4-6.50. Cash only. Open M-Th 1pm-12:30am, F-Su noon-1am.
Centro Storico
The Centro Storico may be old, but it packs in a young crowd at night. One of the best places to find bars and clubs, this area remains busy into the early hours of the morning. If you don’t feel like hunkering down somewhere inside, spend the evening in the Campo dei Fiori.
MOOD
CLUB
C. Vittorio Emanuele II 205
06 68 80 86 19
You can’t spend every night with that ass on a barstool. Sometimes you just gotta twerk. So when you’re in the mood to shake it like a polaroid picture, head on over to Mood. Accompanied by flashing lights, comfy lounges, cheap drinks, and incredible DJs, you’ll be able to dance the night away listening to anything from Eiffel 65 and Daft Punk to Nicki Minaj and Usher. The club gets pretty packed after 1am, so there’ll be no shortage of witnesses as you school everyone in the true art of breaking it down at one of the hottest clubs in the area.
From Campo dei Fiori, take P. della Cancelleria to C. Vittorio Emanuele II and turn left; Mood is on the right. Shots for women €2. Beer €5. Cocktails €7. 2 drinks for €10 or open bar €15 until 1am. Open Tu-Su 11pm-4am.
SALOTTO 42
BAR
P. di Pietra 42
06 67 85 804
Black and white floral decor, artsy magazines, and a Buddha head next to some bottles of vodka: welcome to Salatto 42. A swanky but still hip and enlightened bar near Hadrian’s Temple, this is where an older crowd comes to help their butts find nirvana on the most comfortable bar stools ever. Drinks are served with flowers in them (free snack!), and you can sip them while talking about all those important things in life, like karma, religion, and that topical reality show everyone loves.
From the Pantheon, turn right onto V. di Pastini and veer left toward the Tempio Adriano. Beer €6. Cocktails €10. Free buffet with drink purchase during aperitivo. Open M-Sa 10am-2am, Su 10am-midnight. Aperitivo daily 7:30-9pm.
DRUNKEN SHIP
BAR, CLUB
Campo dei Fiori 20/21
06 68 30 05 35
College parties? Please, you majored and minored in Partying 101. So come hell or high water, you’re ready to steer the Drunken Ship. Made for all you nostalgic college-kids-at-heart, this bar caters to a rowdy, predominantly American crowd ready to watch the Yankees on TV or play some beer pong on the tables. With great deals every night (like 2-for-1 Tuesdays), grab a drink, sit on the Heineken bar stools, and listen to drunk American girls try to explain “Ms. New Booty” to the Italians who occasionally stop by.
In Campo dei Fiori. Student discounts nightly.½-price drinks for women M-Th until 11pm. Buy 1 drink get 1 free Tu until 11pm. Shots €3-6. Long drinks €6. Cocktails €7. Happy hour pint of wine with free buffet €4. Open M-Th 3pm-2am, F-Sa 10am-2am, Su 3pm-2am. Happy hour M-F 4-8pm.
ABBEY THEATRE
IRISH PUB
V. del Governo Vecchio 51/53
06 68 61 341
Sure, you’ve seen a lot of saints in Italy, but don’t forget to pay St. Patrick a visit while you’re here. Complete with W. B. Yeats painted on the wall, Abbey Theatre Irish pub will have you wondering if you’ve gotten your flags mixed up and are actually on the Emerald Isle. With a wooden interior, bar food, and multiple rooms where you can listen to live music, Abbey Theatre is a perfect place to catch the latest sports game or just sit and talk to your friends over a glass of “mixed beer” (try the hard cider and grenadine, €5.50). This enormous pub will have you embracing that Celtic blood you’re pretty sure you have in you.
From P. Navona, exit onto P. Pasquina and continue as it becomes V. del Governo Vecchio. Check the website for weekly specials. Shot €4-5. Beer €4-6.50. Cocktails €7-8. Open daily noon-2am. Happy hour daily 3-8pm.
ARISTOCAMPO
BAR
Campo dei Fiori 30
For all those nights when you just can’t make it two more steps into Campo dei Fiore, stop right at Aristocampo’s doorstep. Don’t feel too lazy—you’ll be in good company here, as this bar and restaurant attracts large crowds of Italian and international students to its huge patio outside. Drink some cocktails, order a freshly made panini, and listen to the loud music blasting from the bar. It’s a good place to sit down and enjoy the company of all those friends you have (popular, much?), but if you’d rather scream and shout and let it all out, head further into Campo dei Fiore and join the rowdy rascals in their drunken revelry.
In Campo dei Fiori. Beer €5-6. Cocktails €7. Panini €5. Salads €8. Aperitivo drink and buffet €7. Open daily noon-2am. Aperitivo daily 6-8:30pm.
Piazza di Spagna
There’s a reason the Spanish Steps are so popular at night, and it’s not because they’re pretty. Young travelers seeking nightlife in this neighborhood are wise to lounge on the steps rather than pay €15 for drinks and music at the nearby lounges. The few options here will all do damage to your bank account, so unless you’ve just hit it big in Monaco, try another neighborhood for nighttime entertainment.
HIGHLANDER PUB
IRISH PUB
Vicolo di San Biagio 9
06 68 80 53 68
With a kilt-wearing, bagpipe-playing mascot, Highlander lets you know this isn’t one of Rome’s Irish pubs. Welcome to Scotland. Popular with the international students in the area, this pub, with its dark wooden bar and large flat screen TVs, keeps a schedule of NHL, NBA, and all those other acronymed sports posted so you and your friends can always catch the big game. And with plenty of beers on tap, ranging from Guinness to the Italian Poretti, you’ll have no problem getting rowdy and a little tipsy here.
A: Spagna. From the Spanish Steps, walk down V. dei Condotti, which becomes V. Fontanella di Borghese. When it becomes Largo Fontanella di Borghese, turn left onto V. della Lupa. Highlander is on the corner with Vicolo di San Biagio. Offers free tours of Rome daily at 5pm. Ladies’ Night on Tu. College Night on Th. Draft beer €4-6. Cocktails €6-7. Wine €5-8. Cash only. Open M-Th 5pm-2am, F-Sa 12:30pm-2am, Su 5pm-2am.
ANTICA ENOTECA DI VIA DELLA CROCE
ENOTECA
V. della Croce 76B
06 67 87 440
You can’t work hard and play hard every day. Save those rowdier nights for tomorrow. Take a vacation from your weekend and head to this charming, rustic enoteca. With high ceilings, twisted iron bookshelves, wooden tables and bar, and plenty of wine bottles, this enormous space is usually full in the evenings with people sipping wine and quietly discussing their love for wine and quiet discussions.
A: Spagna. From the Spanish Steps, walk down V. della Croce. Beer €5. Cocktails €8. Wine €4-10 per glass. Antipasti platters €14-16. Primi €9-10. Secondi €12-24. Pizza €9-12. Open daily 11am-1am.
Trastevere
Trastevere is home to some of the best nightlife in the city. American college kids, people inexplicably walking dogs at midnight, Italian teens, and connected-at-the-mouth couples intermingle in the streets with no apparent destinations. With so many great places to choose from, why make a plan? The Piazza Trilussa, right over the Ponte Sisto, is a great starting point.
D.J. BAR
BAR, CLUB
Vicolo del Cinque 60
338 85 98 578
You always wanted to get closer to those Roman boys. Well, here at the tiny D.J. Bar, you can! Though it barely takes up a street corner, you’ll always know where to find this bar thanks to the enormous crowd of people outside. This is only a fraction of the throng inside, though, so you’ll have to fight your way through to order a drink as the DJs blast “Teach Me How to Dougie” from their platform above (NB: most people here might not speak English, but they all know how to Dougie). The drinks are good, the music is loud, and although there isn’t much space to dance, you’ll get to see people drink entire bowls of alcohol and scream all the words to Flo Rida’s “Low,” and sometimes after a long week, that’s all you need.
From P. Santa Maria in Trastevere, veer into P. San Egidio and turn right onto Vicolo del Cinque. Shot €3. Beer €5. Cocktails €7-8. Cash only. Open daily 5pm-2am. Happy hour F-Sa 7-10pm.
BACCANALE
BAR
V. della Lungaretta 81
06 45 44 82 68
No maenads raving or Bacchic revelry here—at Baccanale, blaring Bon Jovi and cheap beer will suffice. As a fairly low-key bar, this is the place for older couples coming in for dinner or groups of students looking for a cheap drink. By no means seeking to impress the Council of the Gods, the small but well-stocked Baccanale offers outdoor seating, fast service, and rows of foreign money hanging from the ceiling, paying homage to its international student population. Whether you’re alighting from Olympus for a sandwich or a quick drink, Baccanale will not disappoint.
From Vle. Trastevere, turn right onto V. della Lungaretta. Beer €3-5. Cocktails €5-7. Open Tu-Su 11am-2am.
CAFÉ FRIENDS
BAR, CLUB
P. Trilussa 34
06 58 16 111
By day, Café Friends serves out a full breakfast and lunch in its brightly lit, tropical-colored dining area. But by night, its swanky and sleek bar at the front becomes the main attraction, especially for the international student crowd. With special drinks like the Zombie (rum, Jamaicano, cherry brandy, orange juice, and lime; €8) and a large lounge area and patio, you’ll find large groups of friends (like the cafe’s name! we get it!) lounging about while the music blasts on until the early morning.
From Ponte Sisto, head into P. Trilussa. Free Wi-Fi. Beer €4-5.50. Cocktails €8. Aperitivo drinks €6-8. 15% discount for international students with ID. Open daily 7am-2am. Aperitivo daily 7-9pm.
GOOD
BAR, CAFE
V. di Santa Dorotea 8/9
06 97 27 79 79
Bookshelves lined with bottles of wine and Jack—somehow Good has turned even this college staple from your dorm into a classy affair. With swanky music playing, candlelit tables, and elaborately colorful chandeliers, Good is the romantically warm and friendly bar that is popular with the post-graduate crowd. While the bartenders might still rock the plaid shirt over a Captain America tank top, most of the clientele for the week is older couples coming in for a drink, some food, and a chance to hear live jazz. Right on.
From P. San G. de Matha, take V. di Santa Dorotea as it veers left. Free Wi-Fi. Beer €5-8. Cocktails €9. Happy hour drinks €8. Open M-Sa 8am-2am, Su 8:30am-2am. Happy hour daily 6:30-9:30pm.
Termini and San Lorenzo
Termini and San Lorenzo have two very different nightlife scenes. Dozens of bars near Termini’s hostels cater primarily to international travelers with drink specials and loud dance music. San Lorenzo, on the other hand, is near the university and thus popular with artsy, 20-something Italians. Late-night bookstores, laid-back bars, and pulsing clubs litter the otherwise quiet neighborhood, so the best tactic is to follow the people until you find a place that looks interesting.
AI TRE SCALINI
CAFE, ENOTECA
V. Panisperna 251
06 48 90 74 95
Nothing says wild Friday night like wicker chairs and fake grapes hanging on the walls. Don’t expect any ragers from this older crowd, but if you want the best place to sit around and talk about how much you love wine, hit up Ai Tre Scalini. A small enoteca, you’ll fine only wine glasses (no shots here) in the hands of this crowd as they spill out the vine-covered doorway onto the street. Very popular among locals, it’s a lovely little bar with frescoed walls and warm lighting to spend a relaxing Thursday night in before you continue your love affair with vodka later this weekend.
From the intersection of V. XXIV Maggio and V. Nazionale (near Trajan’s column), walk up V. Panisperna. Free Wi-Fi. 10% discount at lunch. Beer €3-5. Wine €4.50-6 per glass; €12-70 per bottle. Sfizi (bite-sized appetizers) €2.50-3. Primi €6-13. Open M-F noon-1am, Sa-Su 6pm-1am.
SOLEACLUB
BAR
V. dei Latini 51
328 92 52 925
The mismatched cushions and orange curtains might make the sassy gay friend in you cry out murder, but hey €1 shots. Guess you can put up with it. With great drink specials advertised on the chalkboard outside and an artsy university crowd inside, live out those drunken hipster dreams you have while rocking out to Bowie. Though it might be a bit removed from Termini, that just makes it less mainstream(ergo, so hipster).
Tram #3 or 19. Or Termini. Follow traffic down V. Marsala and turn left onto V. dei Ramni. Turn right onto V. dei Luceri, then right onto V. dei Sabelli; Solea Club is on the corner of V. dei Sabelli and V. dei Latini. Beer €3-5. Wine €4.50. Cocktails and shots €5.50. Cash only. Open daily 9pm-3am.
BAR, CLUB
V. degli Aurunci 35
06 97 61 24 28
It might be a long walk from your hostel in Termini, but with its extra long aperitivo (6-10pm; buffet free with drink purchase), 7sette cl. will wait. After kicking back a few drinks, this dimly-lit bar with purple walls transforms into one of the better discos in the area, with live music and DJs spinning house. A large lounge area with sleek bar stools and couches also welcomes you in to sit and ponder the important questions in life. Like how exactly one would pronounce the name of this bar.
Tram #3 or 19. Or Termini. Follow traffic down V. Marsala and turn left onto V. dei Ramni. Turn right onto V. dei Luceri and then left onto V. dei Sabelli. Continue into the piazza and, with the church behind you, turn right onto V. degli Aurunci. Art and cinema night on M. Theme night on Tu. Live music on W and Th. DJ on F and Sa. Salsa and swing on Su. Beer €3-5. Wine €4-5. Cocktails and shots €5-7. Cash only. Open M-Th 3pm-2am, F-Sa 3pm-4am, Su 3pm-2am.
YELLOW BAR
CAFE, BAR
V. Palestro 40
06 49 38 26 82
Nothing cures American homesickness like a Chuck Norris Roundhouse Kick to the Face Crazy Shot (don’t ask what’s in it, just drink up). Catering to the young international crowd (hey, that’s you!), this bar is always filled with a younger generation sitting out on the patio or at the sleek wooden bar on leather seats that get comfier as you get tipsier. With a giant Corona bottle by the entrance, music blasting, and a beer pong room (only for the hostel-dwellers) located downstairs, this famous hostel bar will cure any longings for America, especially with its full American breakfast that you can try to stomach the morning after.
Termini. From V. Marsala, near track 1, walk down V. Marghera and turn left onto V. Palestro. Pub quiz on €5. Open bar on F €15. Cocktails €8. Pitchers €15. Happy hour spirits €2.50; wine €1.50. Open daily 7:30am-2am. Kitchen open 7:30am-noon. Happy hour 3-9pm.
Northern Rome
Near the cluster of hostels around Termini, Via Nomentana is a great option for those who want to venture a bit farther from their hostel. Good bars and discoteche are always popping up. Bars are the best year-round option.
NEW AGE CAFÉ
BAR, CAFE
V. Nizza 23
In an area without many bars, New Age Café stands out with its neon lights, top 40 hits, and the line of Vespas parked outside. Catering to mostly an older crowd that comes in for beer or coffee, this bar serves everything from alcohol to pastries to even Gatorade (in case you’ve just run up the not-so-well-lit street). With an interior balcony, outdoor seating, and bar stools lined up by the window, this bar takes in a decent number of people before getting too crowded, but watch out for nights with football (read: soccer) games. It’s not blood sport, but it still makes Romans rowdy.
From P. Fiume, walk down V. Nizza. Shot €3. Draft beer €5-6. Cocktails €7. Lunch panini and primi €4-6. Cash only. Open daily 7am-2am. Aperitivo daily 6:30-9:30pm.
BÒEME
CLUB
V. Velletri 14
06 84 12 212
Go down the rabbit hole at Bòeme, and you’ll enter a world with dizzying black-and-white walls, elaborately Baroque chairs, and yes, a dance club that lets you party all night. Take an extended tea break before hitting this club, since doors don’t even open until 11pm. Despite the late start, you’ll get your money’s worth with top 40 hits on blast until 5am. The crowd is a little grungy, so be prepared to see a lot of camouflage pants and hoodies. And most importantly, know that this wonderland is in a dark area with mostly deserted concrete buildings, so be sure to bring friends along to avoid sketchy encounters with the Cheshire Cat on your way home.
From P. Fiume, walk up V. Nizza and turn left onto V. Velletri. Cover €15-20, includes 1st drink. Drinks €10. Open F-Sa 11pm-5am.
Testaccio and Ostiense
Locals who’ve sought out the best clubs head to Testaccio and Ostiense for big nights out. The strip of clubs, restaurants, and lounges surrounding Via di Monte Testaccio begs to be explored. The streets closer to the train station tend to have smaller, low-key establishments that stay open late and are a good option if you don’t feel like heavy-duty clubbing.
AKAB
CLUB
V. di Monte Testaccio 69
06 57 25 05 85
You’re not in Rome as a tourist. You’re here to werk it. So when wine bars and chitchat have got you down, hit up one of Rome’s hottest nightclubs. An enormous dance space with flashing lights and occasional confetti thrown in your face, Akab is the go-to disco in this area. The cover charge might be high, but you’ll be surrounded by large speakers, energetic DJs, and huge crowds who understand how to shut up and dance. And sometimes that’s all you really want.
B: Piramide. Walk up V. Marmorata toward the river, turn left onto V. Galvani, and veer left onto V. di Monte Testaccio. Electronic music on Tu. House on Th. Rock on F. Commercial and house on Sa. Cover €10-20; includes 1 drink. Cocktails and beer €10. Open Tu 11:30pm-4:30am, Th-Sa 11:30pm-4:30am.
COYOTE
BAR, CLUB
V. di Monte Testaccio 48B
340 24 45 874
And everyone laughed when you brought cowboy boots to Rome. Little did they know that Italians have a thing for the Wild West, and here at Coyote, they’re all about the faux-mud brick patio decked-out in Christmas lights and US license plates along the walls. Amurica! With a beautiful location on a rooftop overlooking Testaccio and DJs spinning house and Latin music well into the night, this club is a favorite for locals who stay here until they can live out that real American cowboy dream to drunkenly stumble off into a sunrise.
B: Piramide. Walk up V. Marmorata toward the river, turn left onto V. Galvani, and veer left onto V. di Monte Testaccio. Cover F-Sa after midnight €10. Beer and wine €5. Cocktails €8. Open daily 9pm-5am.
TOP FIVE
RISTORANTE, BAR
V. di Monte Testaccio 48
06 57 45 453
Nothing says American bar like A Clockwork Orange posters, Spock paintings, and English graffiti on the bar counter. So while you’re here, fill up on American nostalgia and some panini and drinks. There’s plenty of seating and service is fast, so you can always satisfy your late-night pizza cravings and early morning breakfast calls at this bar before venturing out into club-lined streets of Testaccio again. Because you didn’t choose this clubbing life; it chose you.
B: Piramide. Walk up V. Marmorata toward the river, turn left onto V. Galvani, and veer left onto V. di Monte Testaccio. Beer €4-6. Cocktails €8. Happy hour shots and beer €4; cocktails €6. Food €2-8. Open Tu-Su 8pm-5am. Happy hour 8:30-11pm.
ARTS AND CULTURE
“Arts and culture,” you ask, “isn’t that Rome itself?” Well, yes—Renaissance paintings, archaeological ruins, and Catholic churches do count. But aside from these antiquated lures, Rome offers entertainment that makes it much more than a city of yore. Soccer games might not quite compared to man-fights-lion spectacles, but with hundreds of screaming Italians around, it comes close.
VATICAN CITY, ANCIENT CITY
V. Ostia 9 and Villa Celimontana
06 39 72 18 67
www.alexanderplatzjazzclub.com
One of Rome’s most popular jazz clubs and Italy’s oldest, the Alexanderplatz Jazz Club operates in a hideout-like basement in the winter months for all your underground jazzy needs. Host to many famous musicians, enjoy the daily jazz as you decipher the multilingual scrawled notes that artists such as Stefano Bollani and Joshua Redman have left behind on the walls. In June, the jazz moves outside to the beautiful Villa Celimontana in the Ancient City.
A: Ottaviano. Exit on V. Barletta and turn right onto Vle. delle Milizie, then turn left onto V. Tolemaide. Turn right onto V. Ostia. For summer concerts at Villa Celi, B: Colosseo. Follow V. Nicola Salvi and veer right onto Vle. del Parco del Celio. Then veer left onto V. Claudia, which becomes V. Navicella. Membership €15 per month, €45 per year. Open daily 8pm-2am. Shows M-Th 9:45pm, F-Sa 10:30pm, Su 9:45pm. Happy hour 7-8:30pm.
TEATRO NAZIONALE
TERMINI AND SAN LORENZO
V. del Viminale 51or 06 48 17 003
06 48 161
Forget Neoclassical architecture—Teatro Nazionale’s more modern building is lacking chandeliers and frescoes but still has state-of-the-art acoustics and is one of Rome’s beloved opera houses. With the ubiquitous ads for its operas plastering the metro and the streets, curiosity alone might drive you here, while the affordable prices will make you stay and soak in that culture you came to Rome to discover. From June 30 to early fall, additional performances are held outdoors at the beautiful Baths of Caracalla (Terme di Caracalla).
A: Repubblica. Walk down V. Nazionale, then turn left onto V. Firenze and left again onto V. del Viminale. Tickets can also be purchased online at www.amitsrl.it. Oper €33. Ballet €23. Outdoor performances at the Baths of Caracalla €25-135. Students and over 65 receive 25% discount; 10% discount for Baths of Caracalla shows. Check website for last-minute tickets with 25% discount. Box office open Tu-Sa 9am-5pm, Su 9am-1:30pm, and from 1hr. before performance to 15min. after its start. Box office for Baths of Caracalla open Tu-Sa 10am-4pm, Su 9am-1:30pm.
ACCADEMIA NAZIONALE DI SANTA CECILIA
NORTHERN ROME
Vle. Pietro de Coubertin 30, for tickets 06 89 29 82
06 80 82 058
Founded as a conservatory in 1585, the Accademia is now both a training ground for musicians and a professional symphony orchestra. Concerts are held in three metallic and massive futuristic halls rising in the Parco della Musica near Flaminio. With (very) past conductors having included Debussy, Strauss, Stravinsky, and Toscanini, crowds still gather here to eat at the restaurant, shop at the music store, and catch concerts that occur between one to four times a week.
A: Flaminio, then tram #2 to P. Euclide. Or take the special line “M” from Termini (every 15min. starting at 5pm) to Auditorium. Last bus after last performance. Box office at Vle. Pietro de Coubertin 34. Tickets €18-50. Under 30 receive 25% discount when purchasing from the box office. Box office open daily 11am-8pm and 1hr. before concerts.
SHOPPING
LIBRERIA DEL VIAGGIATORE
CENTRO STORICO
V. del Pellegrino 78
06 68 80 10 48
www.libreriadelviaggiatore.com
If Aeneas had stopped by Libreria del Viaggiatore, it might have taken him less than 10 years to wander into Rome. A narrow old bookstore covered in posters of Marco Polo and with globes atop almost every bookshelf, this place is a traveler’s delight. Spend 10min. wandering the seas of its dusty shelves and uncover travel guides and maps of practically anywhere your wanderlust might want to take you. If you don’t seek different shores, just know that most of the non-travel books here are in Italian.
From Campo dei Fiori, walk up V. Pellegrino. Cash only. Open M 4-8pm, Tu-Sa 10am-2pm and 4-8pm.
TRASTEVERE
From P. Porta Portese to P. Ippolito Nievo
You don’t need $20 in your pocket €1 will do. With vendors selling everything from cheap clothing, furniture, antiques, and jewelry, if you need something for less than €5, you’ll probably find it here. The enormous piles of €1 and even €0.50 clothing are worth taking a dive into. If you’re lucky, you’ll score something fashionable. Grab onto it quickly before someone else in the Vatican Museum-sized crowds whisks it away and leaves you with all the XXL shirts that you haven’t eaten enough pizza to fit into.
Take bus #40 to Largo Argentina and tram #8. Cash only. Open Su 7am-2:30pm.
MERCATO DI VIA SANNIO
SOUTHERN ROME
V. Sannio
Ain’t nobody got time for laundry, so when you’re in desperate need for some cheap clothes, head on over to V. Sannio. Specializing in all sorts of used and vintage clothing, this market will force you to jostle your way through the crowds to get what you want. But the prices will bring out that bargain hunting warrior in you, so go off and fight the good fight.
A: San Giovanni. Cash only. Open M-Sa 9am-1:30pm.
ESSENTIALS
• TOURIST OFFICES: Comune di Roma is Rome’s official source for tourist information. Green PIT Info booths, located at most major sights, have English-speaking staff and sell bus and metro maps and the Roma Pass. (V. Giovanni Giolitti 34 in Termini, P. Sidney Sonnino in Trastevere, and V. dei Fori Imperiali 06 06 08 www.turismoroma.it, www.060608.it Most locations open daily 9:30am-7pm; Termini location open daily 8am-8:30pm.) Enjoy Rome provides tour bookings, information on bike and scooter rental, and city maps. (V. Marghera 8A; 2nd office in P. San Pietro 06 44 51 843 www.enjoyrome.com Termini. Walk down V. Marghera. Both locations open M-F 8:30am-6pm, Sa 8:30am-2pm.)
• LUGGAGE STORAGE: Termini Luggage Deposit. (06 47 44 777 www.grandistazioni.it Below Track 24 in the Ala Termini wing. Storage for bags up to 20kg. Max. 5 days. 1st 5hr. €4, €0.60 per hr. for 6th-12th hr., €0.20 per hr. thereafter. After 1st day, €5 per day. Cash only. Open daily 6am-11:50pm.)
• GLBT RESOURCES: The Comune di Roma publishes a free guide to gay life in Rome, AZ Gay. Pick one up at any PIT Info booth. ARCI-GAY offers medical, legal, and psychological counseling as well as free courses and general advice. (V. Zabaglia 14 06 64 50 11 02, helpline 800 71 37 13 www.arcigayroma.it B: Piramide. Walk up V. Marmorata and turn right onto V. Alessandro Volta; it’s at the intersection with V. Zabaglia. ARCI-GAY cards allow access to all events and services run by the program throughout Italy. 3-month card €8; 1 year €15. Open M-Sa 4-8pm. Helpline operates M 4-8pm, W-Th 4-8pm, Sa 4-8pm.)
• POST OFFICES: Poste Italiane are located throughout the city. (800 160 000 www.poste.it) The main office is located at Piazza San Silvestro 19. (06 67 98 495 Open M-F 8:30am-6:30pm, Sa 8:30am-1pm.)
Emergency
• POLICE: Police Headquarters. (V. di San Vitale 15 06 46 86 A: Repubblica.) Carabinieri have offices at V. Mentana 6 (06 44 74 19 00 Near Termini.) and at P. Venezia. (06 67 58 28 00) City Police. (P. del Collegio Romano 3 06 69 01 21)
• CRISIS LINES: Telefono Rosa provides legal, psychological, and medical counseling for women. (Vle. Giuseppe Mazzini 73 06 37 51 82 82 www.telefonorosa.it Operates 24hr.) Samaritans provides psychological counseling in many languages; call for in-person guidance. (800 86 00 22; www.samaritansonlus.org Operates daily 1-10pm.)
• LATE-NIGHT PHARMACIES: The following pharmacies are open 24hr.: Farmacia della Stazione. (P. dei Cinquecento 49/51 06 48 80 019) Farmacia Internazionale. (P. Barberini 49 06 48 25 456 A: Barberini.) Farmacia Doricchi. (V. XX Settembre 47 06 48 73 880) Brienza. (P. del Risorgimento 44 06 39 73 81 86)
• HOSPITALS/MEDICAL SERVICES: Policlinico Umberto I. (Vle. del Policlinico 155 06 49 97 95 14 or 06 49 97 95 15 www.policlinicoumberto1.it B: Policlinico or bus #649 to Policlinico. Emergency treatment free. Non-emergencies €25-50. Open 24hr.) International Medical Center is a private hospital and clinic. (V. Firenze 47 06 48 82 371 www.imc84.com A: Repubblica. Call ahead for appointments. Open M-F 9am-8pm.) Rome-American Hospital. (V. Emilio Longoni 69 06 22 551 for emergencies, 06 22 55 290 for appointments www.rah.it Well to the east of the city; consider taking a cab. To get a little closer, take bus #409 from Tiburtina to Ple. Prenestina or tram #14 from Termini. English-speaking. Private emergency and laboratory services, including HIV testing. Open M-F 8am-8pm, Sa 8am-2pm. 24hr. emergency care.)
Getting There
BY PLANE
DA VINCI INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT (FIUMICINO; FCO)
30km southwest of the city
06 65 951
Commonly known as Fiumicino, Da Vinci International Airport oversees most international flights. To get from the airport, which is located right on the Mediterranean coast, to central Rome, take the Leonardo Express train to Termini Station. After leaving the airport’s customs, follow signs to the Stazione Trenitalia/Railway Station, where you can buy a train ticket at an automated machine or from the ticket office. (€14. 32min., every 30min. 6:47am-11:37pm.) The Sabina-Fiumicino Line (FR1) will take you to Trastevere Station and other Roman suburbs. (www.trenitalia.i €8. 20-45min., every 15min. 5:57am-11:27pm.) Don’t buy a ticket from individuals who approach you, as they may be scammers. If you arrive after 8:30pm, you’ll have to use an automated machine. Before boarding the train, make sure to validate the ticket in a yellow box on the platform; failure to do so may result in a fine of €50-100. To get to or from Fiumicino before 6:30am or after 11:30pm, the easiest option is to catch a taxi. (€40 flat rate for central Rome, including baggage and up to four passengers.)
ROME CIAMPINO AIRPORT (CIA)
15km southeast of the city
06 65 951
Ciampino is a rapidly growing airport that serves budget airlines like Ryanair and EasyJet. There are no trains connecting the airport to the city center, but there are some buses. The SIT Bus Shuttle (06 59 23 507 www.sitbusshuttle.it 40min., every 30-60min. 7:15am-11:30pm) and Terravision Shuttle (06 97 61 06 32 www.terravision.eu 40min., every 20-60min. 8:15am-12:15am) run from the airport to V. Marsala, outside Termini Station. For easy and cheap access to the metro, the COTRAL bus runs to A: Anagnina. (€1.20. 30min., every 40min. 6:30am-11:10pm.)
BY TRAIN
Trenitalia (www.trenitalia.com) trains run through Termini Station, central Rome’s main transport hub. International and overnight trains also run to Termini. City buses #C2, H, M, 36, 38, 40, 64, 86, 90, 92, 105, 170, 175, 217, 310, 714, and 910 stop outside in the P. del Cinquecento, so you definitely aren’t short on options for the next leg of your journey. The station is open 4:30am-1:30am; if you arrive in Rome outside of this time frame, you will likely arrive in Stazione Tiburtina or Stazione Ostiense, both of which connect to Termini by the night bus #175. Trains run from: Bologna (€26-59 2-5hr., 42 per day 6:15am-12:47am); Florence (€18-45 1½-4hr., 52 per day 5:58am-10:36pm); Naples (€11-45 1-3hr., 50 per day 4:52am-9:50pm); Venice (€46-76 4-7hr., 17 per day 6:45am-10:36pm); Milan (€46-89 3-8½ hr., 33 per day 6am-12:47am).
Getting Around
BY BUS
The best way to get around the city other than walking is by bus. Dozens of routes cover the entire city center as well as the outskirts. Bus stops are marked by yellow poles and display a route map for all lines that pass through the stop.
BY METRO
Rome’s metro system consists of two lines: Line A, which runs from Battistini to Anagnina (hitting P. di Spagna), and Line B, which runs from Laurentina to Rebibbida (hitting the Colosseum, Ostiense, and southern Rome). The lines intersect at Termini Station. While the metro is fast, it doesn’t reach many regions and is best for getting across long distances. Stations are marked by poles with a red square and white M. Tickets are validated at turnstiles upon entering the station. The metro usually operates 5:30am-11:30pm (1:30am on Saturdays). A third metro line, Line C, is currently under construction.
BY TRAM
Trams make many stops but are still an efficient means of getting around. A few useful lines include #3 (Trastevere, Piramide, Aventine, P. San Giovanni, Villa Borghese, P. Thorwaldsen), #8 (Trastevere to Largo Argentina), and #19 (Ottaviano, Villa Borghese, San Lorenzo, Prenestina, P. dei Gerani).
BY BIKE
ATAC runs Bikesharing. Purchase a card at any ATAC ticket office. (06 57 03 A: Anagnina, Spagna, Lepanto, Ottaviano, Cornelia, or Battistini, or B: Termini, Laurentina, EUR Fermi, or Ponte Mammolo. Bikes can be parked at 19 stations around the city. Cards are rechargeable. Initial charge €5, €0.50 per 30min. thereafter. Open M-Sa 7am-8pm, Su 8am-8pm. Bikes available for max. 24hr. at a time.) Plenty of other companies also rent bikes, including Bici and Baci and Eco Move Rent (see below).
BY SCOOTER
Rome is truly a city of scooters. Depending on the vehicle, prices range from €19-95 per day. A helmet (required by law) and insurance are usually included. Bici and Baci rents bikes and scooters. (V. del Viminale 5 06 48 28 443 www.bicibaci.com Open daily 8am-7pm.) Treno e Scooter Rent also rents scooters with a lock and chain included. (Stazione Roma Termini 06 48 90 58 23 www.trenoescooter.com. Open daily 9am-2pm and 4-7pm.) Eco Move Rent rents scooters, Vespas, and bikes, with a lock included. (V. Varese 48/50 06 44 70 45 18 www.ecomoverent.com Open daily 8:30am-7:30pm.)
BY TAXI
Given the scope of Rome’s bus system, taxis should only be reserved for desperate or time-sensitive affairs. Legally, you may not hail a cab on the street—either call RadioTaxi (06 35 70 www.3570.it) or head to a cab stand (near most major sights). Ride only in yellow or white cars and look for a meter or settle on a price before the ride. Fares start a €2.33 for rides between 7am-10pm and €4.91 for 10pm-7am and are then calculated per kilometer. Sunday and holiday daytime fares start at €3.36. Rate 1 is charged for rides within the center (€0.78 per km). Rate 2 is applied to rides outside the center (€1.29 per km). Though it’s hard to tell what rate is being applied, write down the license number if the cost seems especially high. Tips are not expected.
Milan is a major city, a sea of asphalt punctuated by breathtaking strips of green where the bustle of daily life sometimes overshadows la dolce far niente. But beneath the industrial, fashion-focused lifestyle of Milan is a beautiful, historic district that can easily be overlooked. Whether it’s €2000 Gucci shoes or Da Vinci’s breathtaking Last Supper, here you will be intimidated. This city earns its cultural megatron status from the Renaissance works, awe-inspiring churches, and medieval castles. The Piazza del Duomo alone is built on the four great pillars of the Milanese lifestyle: the church (Duomo), art (Museo Novecento), commerce (La Rinascente), and rich Renaissance people (Palazzo Reale).
Milan is a city where all the women wear heels, where even the least fashion conscious can pick out the knock-off, where art is free and plentiful, and where it’s normal to save up for one €60 meal instead of several crappy ones. The Italian ideal of la bella figura, an aesthetically conscious lifestyle includes everything from food to fashion sense to social prowess, reigns supreme in this sophisticated city.
With opera notes trilling from the famous La Scala and Renaissance artwork hiding around every corner, Milan is a rich well of culture from which to draw. It’s evident in everything from the delicate Lombardian culinary specialties to the even more delicate (and expensive) clothing in the windows of what was once called Quadrilatero d’Oro (the Fashion District). Milan has a cultural energy that pulses to the beats of the elite discos, vibrates in the crowds cheering on the AC and Inter Milan soccer teams, and glows in the city’s edgy and vibrant contemporary art scene. Milan is as fast and fierce as a cherry-red Ferrari, so grab your stilettos, throw on some hot-pink lipstick, and hop in.
SIGHTS
MILAN CATHEDRAL (DUOMO)
CHURCH
P. del Duomo
02 72 02 33 75
It is no wonder why this 350 ft tall Gothic church took 600 years to complete. Red, white, and black marble rigid, geometric patterns serve as the base for the two rows of statue-embedded columns reaching to the heavens. All light enters through floor to ceiling stained glass windows illuminating the lace-like ceiling, and portrayals of Jesus and other liturgical figures throughout the house of God. Enjoy, but restrain from shooting pics unless you have some weird “church guard chasing you through a tranquil church” fetish. To avoid the drama, if you are a photographer at heart and want to show mom that you have been a good Christian visiting churches, buy a bracelet or work on your sly game.
Though extremely impressive, much of the church is roped off, providing only a few rows of seats halfway down the cathedral for visitors to sit, overcome the overwhelming sense of intimidation, and ponder the genius craftsmanship and engineering intuition required to erect this brilliant house of prayer. Descend below the altar to see the resting place of Cardinal Arcivscoso of Milan whose silver encapsulated corpse is visible through a glass tomb. Most people do not enjoy being stared at; now imagine, being glared at for centuries after your death—the whole set up is a bit creepy if you ask us. And to add to the morbid theme gaze up at the statue of a man with protruding bones and spider-like veins, something you would expect to find in a medieval torture museum or at Party City for your Halloween yard decorations, but not in one of the world’s greatest churches.
Before you leave the Piazza del Duomo, perhaps you would like to climb the Duomo for views of the city. Pay €7 to work off your cotoletta Milanese while climbing up the stairs or opt for the €12 lazy route via elevator. The highest point accessible is far from the top of the main tower and the views of Milan are rather unspectacular. Our advice: pocket the cash, take the escalator seven flights up the neighboring designer department store, La Rinascente, and sip on a cappuccino while gazing at the Duomo’s spires. At the same height without the burdensome steps, this terrace viewpoint is way more breathtaking than the pricey lookout from the Duomo. Check out the Museo del Duomo to further educate yourself about Milan’s artistic and religious history. Entrance to the Duomo is free, but be sure to wear garments that cover the shoulders and the knees. The guards are very strict about proper attire.
Free. €2 to take photos inside. Open daily 7am-6:40pm.
SFORZA CASTLE
CASTLE
P. Castello
02 88 46 37 00
At the crossroads of historical and modern Milan stands the pinnacle monument of Parco Sempione, the grand Sforza Castle. Encircled by a water-less moat, now a haven for stray cats, the majority of the castle has been transformed from the former Sforza residency into a castle showcasing century-old art, weaponry, and home decor. Full wall tapestries that could wrap around your freshman dorm walls three times over as intricate as many of the paintings were once used to insulate the palace. Though the Sforzas did not have to pay a monthly electric bill, the cost to commission such tapestries surely made for expensive heating.
The exhibit is so large that there is an entire wing dedicated to antique pianos and yet others, for armory to see how feuding knights duked it out. Just in case you have not seen enough Madonna col Bambino renditions, the castle has its fair share. Francesco Galli’s is one of the best in the world, with emphasis on facial proportions reflecting the same perfection as the works of Leonardo da Vinci, Galli’s mentor who dreamt up a fantastic room in the castle currently under renovation. But da Vinci is not the only heavy hitter highlighted in the castle. A circuitous walkway builds tension and curiosity as you are led to Michelangelo’s “Pieta Rondanini,” an unfinished sculpture, which the master worked on until his death. Moving on you will find yourself walking forwards in history from 1200 to the 1900s, where beautiful paintings are strangely juxtaposed across from furniture you would think you could by from Crate and Barrel. For the $1.50 student price, Sforza Castle’s collection of museums is a must, a great way to immerse yourself in medieval culture and kill a few hours before heading to Navigli for your evening date with your trusty alcoholic friends, Peroni and Morretti.
Castle free. Castle museums €5; €3 student. Castle open daily 7am-7pm in the summer, 7am-6pm in the winter. Castle museums open Tu-Su 9am-5:30pm, last entrance at 5pm.
GALLERIA VITTORIO EMANUELE II
MALL
P. del Duomo
02 77 40 43 43
A purchase in the Quadrilatero D’Oro (Rectangle of Gold) will send any budget traveler deep into debt. Adjacent to the Duomo, the Galleria Vittorio Emmanuelle II was constructed between 1865 and 1877 as a four story shopping mall with both a glass dome and glass arched ceilings extending in all four directions. Marble inlay floors leading to one Gucci, a Versace, and two Pradas seperated for men and women. Rent here is at a premium, which is one of the reasons why a simple Gucci bag sells for €800. But if you have the money, why not indulge. As one of the Prada representatives told us, “quality lasts.” So imagine the €2800 “leopard print calf hair top handle bag” as an investment rather than a waste of money enough to buy two MacBooks, cover three months of your mortgage, or pay for half a semester of school. Rationalizing is not the way to go in this mall, one of the world’s oldest, where you feel like you have to pay to even breathe the air. Away from the epicenter of this goldmine are designer stores just as absurdly expensive, namely Luis Vuitton and Armani adding to the extraordinary concentration of swankiness. Well, for all the fashionistas out there, this beautiful structure is the dream.
Entrance free. Everything else costs a little more. Most shops open from 9:30am-7:30pm.
As a large, fast paced city Milan has its fair share of accommodations though many are oriented towards the rich fashionistas and business executives. However, there are some excellent hostel choices for your stay though most are a bit of a walk or metro ride away from the historic district. Compared to the rest of Italy, the best Milan hostels are relatively less expensive, but often fill up quickly, so be sure to book in advance.
GOGOL’ OSTELLO
HOTEL $$
Via Chieti, 1
02 36 75 55 22
As you enter, you will likely smell the aromatic meal being prepared upstairs by the owner and her mother. Patrons of this new hostel say that if you are lucky, she may even invite you to dinner after check-in. If not, many of our dining recommendations are just a short walk away. Dinosaur and sci-fi posters decorate the vibrant green and white walls of this supposed book-sharing hostel. The rooms are extremely clean, spacious, and have a home-y feeling despite the fact that you may be sharing the room with five others. The room atmosphere varies as people come and go; you may be bunking with an older gentlemen who needs your help with Skype or you may be lucky enough to share the room with two college backpackers. There is no lift so be prepared to trudge up three flights of stairs with your pack, but that should not be a problem for travelers like you. And for a nice rest, if not strangely in use for a children’s birthday party or formal business meeting, relax on a couch in one of the turf-floored common spaces that will have you wishing there was a ball to kick around. The breakfast is minimal, but a good cup of joe in the morning is all you need after getting shwasted at a nearby club. With an extremely friendly staff in a fine neighborhood, just a 15 minute walk from the city center, the Gogol’ Ostello is our favorite Milano hostel.
6-Bed mixed dorm €28. 4-Bed mixed dorm €30. Double room private €40. Reception M- F 8:30am-9:30pm, Sa 8:30am-11:30pm, and Su 9:30am-9:30pm. Checkout at 11am.
BELLAGIO
FOUNTAIN
Bellagio, located on Lake Como
The fountain erupts with water as drunken gamblers publicly carrying boots filled with punch or straight-up bourbon stand at the pools edge, reveling at the glory of the Bellagio Hotel. Though they are not the least bit similar, something must have inspired Steve Wynn to name his Vegas casino after the small, charming Italian town on Lake Como. Do not come here expecting to find any resemblance or you will be seriously disappointed. For those who do not care about slots, Bellagio is objectively better. Settled at the crotch of Lake Como (no we did not make that up) where the two legs of the lake separate, this quaint village is built up into a small beautiful hill, providing views of both Menaggio and Varenna on either side of the lake. At night, lights shimmer all around the lake, creating the illusion of a vast open sky littered with large yellow stars -- it’s quite magical if we may say so ourselves.
Though a night the Grand Hotel Villa Serbelloni would probably set you back 10 days of food and lodging, the Lake Como Youth Hostel in Menaggio is cheap and only a 10-min ferry ride away. Walk beside the waterfront parade of palm trees on Bellagio’s colorful main street, more resemblant of a tropical paradise than Italian lake village. Burn the calories trudging up the steep hills through less traveled streets underneath canopy topped bridges and above incredible hotel villas before reaching the crotch where you gloriously stand, titanic-ing on the stone walkway reaching into the lake, excited to be at the balls of one of richest lakes in the world—that is the life. On the face looking out onto Varenna lies the Bellagio Rockefeller Residency, housing famous fellows for a month at a time while they write and research in the mountains (we would find the beauty distracting). Keep your eyes peeled in town—perhaps you may find Australia’s former Prime Minister, Kevin Rudd (no not Paul Rudd—though that would be way cooler). And while you are here, why not stroll along the waterfront pebble paths to find perfection in landscape and architecture at Giardini di Villa Melzi.
PINCOTECA DI BRERA
MUSEUM
V. Brera 28
02 72 26 32 64
It is not uncommon to enter a deep inquisitive state when visiting the Pinoteca di Brera. You may wonder: Why do we so value Renaissance paintings? What is so special about Madonna col Bambino? Wasn’t idealism a major focus for Renaissance artists? Then why did they not attempt to make Christ the child remotely attractive? Such questions may be inspired by both the paintings on the walls of the Pinoteca and the remarkable insight into the art restoration process. For a museum originally designed for art students’ studies, the collection is extremely impressive. The astounding heavy hitters include Raphael’s Marriage of the Virgin, Carvaggio’s Supper at Emmaus, and Francesco Hayez’s Il Bacio (you will know it when you see it). To freshen things up, the museum also boasts an interesting collection of 20th-century works. If all this meta art has inspired you, make your way downstairs and wander through the hallways of the school, where you can peek into classrooms and courtyards to witness sculpture sessions or impromptu performance art. Perhaps you may even catch a glimpse of the next modern master of the arts. If you are bold and hungry, strike up a conversation with some of the students picnicking in the courtyard, and before you leave, you may very well have had your initial inquiries completely answered.
€9. Students €6. Open Tu-Su 8:30am-7:15pm, closed Mon
PINOTECA AMBROSIANA
MUSEUM
Piazza Pio XI 2
02 80 69 21
The art is not the only impressive aspect of this exhibit housing the works of Renaissance greats including the likes of Botticelli, Luini, Tiziano Viecellio, Jacopo Bassano, Carvaggio, and the heavy hitter, Leonardo da Vinci. The awe-inspiring lineup is complemented by the rectangular light frames delicately suspended from the ceiling, illuminating the works in such a way that surreal figures achieve human perfection when viewed from any angle.
Aimlessly wandering through the maze of rooms that are most large Italian museums can be rather stressful and confusing—you constantly wonder if you have missed anything spectacular. To alleviate the frustrating pressures and enhance your viewing pleasures, the Pinoteca Ambrosiana provides a complementary map and guide to the exhibit. The tension builds as you enter the gray carpeted room housing a Carvaggio on red velvet walls. Sink into the comfy red chairs designed as if for a home theater facing the black and white Raphael spanning the entire wall below the frosted glass ceiling. Gaze at the several scenes, wondering what Raphael was thinking, or just take a nap—you surely cannot find a more impressive space in which to nap in all of Milan.
After your afternoon siesta and before exploring the world of da Vinci, check out Paul Bril and Jan Brughel’s paintings seemingly depicting Disney fairytale wonderlands minus Mickey and Minnie. Descend upon the ancient biblioteca, passing mosaics containing inscriptions of Virgil’s Aeneid, taking you through a strange combination of Roman, Renaissance, and modern times. Strike up a conversation with the guards for the ultimate experience. Use this opportunity to exercise your broken Italian and better understand the historical context of the art. Listen to Heart of Courage by Invincible to pump you up and mentally prepare yourself for the largest collection of Leonardo’s drawings in the world. His innovative brilliance depicts hydraulic water lifting, Euclidean geometry, toothed wheels, and a deep curiosity for the human eye. After absorbing the two-story Codex Atlanticus, exit through the weighty curtains right back into the hot, sweaty city center.
€15. Students €10. Open Tu-Su 10am-6pm, closed Mon
MUSEO POLDI PEZZOLI
MUSEUM
Via Alessandro Manzoni 12
02 79 48 89
An unsuspecting museum blended in with the bustling designer shops and expensive hotels, the Museo Poldi Pezzoli is quite different inside. After you save €3 (almost enough to buy a beer in Milan) purchasing the reduced €6 student ticket, ascend the red-velvet banister staircase spiraling around a stone carved statue strangely home to goldfish of all things. As with many Italian museums, the collection is diverse comprising both Renaissance paintings and historical artifacts including glass cases of compasses and other navigational tools. Though potentially fascinating to the viewer, the dim lighting and comfortable seating propels the guard into a deep sleep. Try to find a reason for why the museum designers decided to set an entire room aside for Ippolito Costa’s version of “Maddonna col Bambino,” a scene more spectacularly depicted in some of the other thousand Renaissance versions. The paintings are beautiful, but this could not be a Milan museum without a touch of fashion, which can be found in the Sala Degli Ori, the best presented room in the museum. Set in glass cases on rising pedestals are intricate gold, silver, and ivory necklaces lying beside knives, bowls, crosses, and other material possessions necessary to throw a fabulous dinner party for the doge. The Portrait of a Man by Andrea Previtalli is a testament to the importance of presentation, with a gold frame propped upon glass in a mirrored case jutting out from the wall, transforming what may normally be perceived by unknowledgeable art viewers as an unimpressive work into a masterpiece. For a comfortable break from the luxuriate in modernity, sink into the anachronistic, vibrant, neon upholstered couches providing an alternative perspective of the works painted 500 years earlier. Once rested, to end your visit check out the Sala D’Armi to get face-to-face with fully armored knights grasping spears below the arched ceilings. One can only imagine how many lives the glass, encased weapons have taken.
€9 for regular ticket; €6 for students. Open M 10am-6pm, W-Su 10am-6pm, closed Tu.
COMO-BRUNATE FUNICOLARE
FUNICULAR
Piazza Alcide de Gasperi 4
031 30 36 08
To experience the stunning Lake Como scenery without following the shoreline for hours, we suggest the funicular to Brunate. The nearly vertical trip triggers cringes from the feint of heart, but provides brilliant views of Como and the lake’s southernmost leg. Those who desire to catch a glimpse of the wider northern half of the lake should leave the heart of Bruanate for a 15-min walk to the “panoramic” vista indicated on road signs. Walks extend elsewhere from Brunate, passing charming homes and mountaintop churches on the ascending road. Hikers may opt for one of the trails leading either up towards Monte Boletto or down towards the emerald water. If the concept of escaping the luxuries of civilization for nature sounds insufferable, choose one of the many trattoria in town to do what Americans do best: eat. Restaurant owners attentively keep post at the doorstep, menus in hand as they attempt to fend off competition in luring hungry tourists. In case the carbohydrate meal wasn’t satiating, indulge in a creamy gelato or tart lemon soda to last you the 3-min descent back to opulence. Though there is an information booth in Brunate it is often inconveniently unmanned, so ask any questions you anticipate at the base of the funicular in Como.
One way ticket €3. Return ticket €5.50. Open daily 6am-10:30pm with departures roughly every 15-30min.
FOOD
Food here takes the word “expensive” to a new level. A fine dining experience at a famed restaurants will cost you a pretty penny, surely exceeding the €80 range. But since the majority of the world cannot afford such extravagant meals, Milan has more affordable traditional Lombardi-Milanese cuisine as well. The cotoletta (chicken cutlet) is a must, serving as a welcoming break from the carb lifestyle. Aperitivo unlimited buffets, though not the best quality, are the way to go if you are starved. As in all of Italy, the pasta is delicious and the cheapest option as a primi piatti after pizza, which is soupy and scrumptious as well. After a day of shopping, why not add to the expenses by indulging in a great Milanese meal.
RENDEZ VOUS UNO RISTORANTE PIZZERIA
PIZZA $$
Via Losanna, 11
02 34 93 20 87
Away from the Duomo in the largely residential neighborhoods are the more affordable dining options. Choosing where to grab your meal can be quite difficult. For those who want to sit out on a beautiful street and people watch under the setting sun, Rendez Vous is the perfect place. The jocular wait staff and calm, cool atmosphere will certainly sow the seeds of love if you have found una donna bellissima. Watch as the neighborhood socialite takes his usual seat in the corner, sets aside his specs, and miraculously attracts locals and waiters alike for a communal smoke. Navigating the Italian menu may be difficult, but the animated waiters are surprisingly excited to attempt a translation! If you are adventurous, arbitrarily point and pick an item on the menu. Not knowing what you are about to consume will certainly intensify your meal. The pasta is gastronomically great, the gnocchi even better, and the decadent Tiramisu is a fattening delight. Don’t succumb to your post-meal Grappa desires (not that anyone enjoys the putrid taste of Grappa). Instead, to top off your meal you will be handed a free glass of limoncello, which the waiter calls “a drink to ensure your return.” Though we may not have been back ourselves, we certainly recommend Rendez Vous as a cheap, scrumptious meal after a tiresome day of exploring Milan.
Primi piatti €7-15. Secondi piatti €10-25.
LA SALSAMENTERIA
SANDWICHES $
Via G. Chizzolini, 2
If buying round after round for your hostelmates each night is quickly shrinking your budget, try this inexpensive, ultra-modern deli for lunch-on-the-go. Skipping meals is not an intelligent move. Why waste €5 on a refrigerated, supermarket panino, when for about €3, you can order a sandwich on a variety of fresh, crispy rolls with your choice of sliced meats and creamy cheeses? Add some marinated vegetables for a tangy twist. La Salsamenteria is one of the only places in Milan where cheap and quality are not paradoxical concepts. Though €18/kilogram for capricola and €24/kilogram for a specialty fontina may have you regretting your choice of lunch spots, the sandwiches are priced by weight. English is a rarity here, so pointing at meats and just saying “si, si, si” is your best bet. The salamis are soft as a baby’s skin and the locally produced taleggio cheese will melt in your mouth with welcoming sharp, flavorful explosions. And if the sandwich wasn’t enough, crack a piece off of the homemade breadsticks included in your meal. Sure, this is not New York City’s Zabars, nor a fancy butcher shop, but we officially deem this 3-month old deli an unnoticed Milano treasure. Stop on by before this piccolo place becomes the Katz’s Deli of Milan. Have a sandwich for lunch, another for dinner, and with all the money saved, why not another for a midnight snack—delizioso, delizioso, delizioso!
Less than €3 for a sandwich. Open M-Sa 9am-8pm, closed Su.
OSTERIA DELLA STAZIONE
ITALIAN $$
Via Piero Della Francesca 68
02 34 93 01 87
Located in what appears to be a vivacious neighborhood boasting exorbitantly priced restaurants and a bumping disco club soon to be featured in the Italian film Alaska, Osteria Della Stazione is the place to be. Since we assume that a €100+ meal that you could get at Il Marchesino or Ristorante Cracco is out of your budget, this low key restaurant is a fine replacement. Though the red and white checkered table may remind you of a midwestern diner, you would never be provided with a complimentary glass of sparkling vino rosso in the States. The pastas are rather petite in size, but delicious nonetheless, and we highly recommend the trofie al pesto. But if you have been in Italy for a while consuming pasta night after night, it’s understandable if you need a break. Unfortunately steak is not a Milano specialty. Go to Florence for the juicy bistecca and order a pizza here. Upon ordering, watch the chef toss the dough in the air, which will soon be transformed into a flavorful, soupy pizza. And just to ensure that you have had your fair share of alcohol, the waiter will prop down a freezing bottle of limoncello for you to pour yourself. If you chug quickly, this could be the start of a cheap, drunk night out in Milan.
Primi piatti €9-10. Secondi €9-25. Pizza €5-12. Open Tu-F 12:30pm-3pm and 7pm-midnight, M-Sa 7pm-midnight.
ANEMA E COZZE
VENETIAN $$
Via Palermo, 11; Corso Sempione, 41; Via Orseolo, 1; Via Casale, 7
02 83 75 459
Nostalgic for Venetian frutti di mare, yet salivating for Napolitano pizza? Well, it just can’t be the same, because you’re in….. Milan, not Venice or Naples. Lucky for you, we’re only joking. Anema e Cozze offers the best of both worlds, Lombardi style. Sink you teeth into a sea of sauce and cheese, with a crisp sea floor, and shrimp floating atop. Or try a bowl of the succulent, parsley-studded clams swimming in bright lemon and tangy wine. To avoid looking like an amateur, avoid immediately cutting the pie or else risk an embarrassing soupy catastrophe. In the mean time gaze out at the canal, creepily watch young couples hooking up, and relish in Italian life. Though more pricey than the average pizzeria, here there is gourmet food, quality service and Mediterranean minimalist decor. The white tiles, sleek chairs, aqua accents, and mermaid emblem are fresh and tight. Though not quite the buffet, aperitivo Navigli style, the flavors are incomparable. The interior is so bright and popular that there are four locations dispersed across Milan proper—a high class chain, much better than Italian fast food chains. However, we suggest trekking over to the Via Casale branch in the evening overlooking the bumping nightlife before drinking away at the Old Fashion Cafe or one of Milans other 100 night clubs.
Dishes range from €6-15. Open daily 12:30-3pm and 7:30pm-midnight.
MARKET $
San Babila, Corso Venezia
02 76 02 33 79
Halfway between a supermarket and a specialty store, Brek is a popular chain that offers delicatessen options for the grab-and-go crowd, but the best option here is the buffet. Brek’s primi prices are perfect for the budget traveler. The food is freshly prepared in front of you, offering a wide variety of Italian delicacies from risottos to pastas, cheeses, meats, seafood, vegetables, and dessert. The lasagnas are delicious, but the gnochetti di patate pesto di zucchine e ricotta affumicata is heavenly. For the same quality and quantity anywhere else in Milan you would have to pay a fortune plus the obnoxious coperto cover charge. Here you pay for what you eat, and what you eat is perfetto.
€7-14. Open daily noon-3pm and 6:30-11:30pm.
NIGHTLIFE
Milan not only boasts a cosmopolitan center of fashion and industry, but it also offers a thriving nightlife for people of all ages and income brackets. Nightlife here can be categorized many different ways according to price, atmosphere, location, crowd, etc. But for simplicity, we will keep to two: the club scene and the bar scene. Whether you are donning a classy Armani suit or faded shorts and a t-shirt will determine where the night takes you. For obvious reasons, the two types of nightlife are drastically different.
The Bar Scene
Behind fashion-oriented shops, bars appear to pull a close second in the competition to take up as much property as possible in Milan. The heart of the historic district where most tourists spend their days is littered with bars and restaurants on side streets and small squares. The sheer quantity of places to grab a drink along Corso Sempione northwest of the Arco della Pace is quite shocking. Luckily, this means there is no shortage of alcohol in this city. You can quench your thirst anywhere with a birra, limoncello, or whatever alcoholic beverage your liver desires.
Though we are sure that you can have a good night at one of the scattered bars throughout the city, whether it be the rich Roialto or laid-back Offside Pub, there is only one area in the city always brimming with students and cocktails. Bar after bar lining both sides of the Naviglio Grande Canal, a beautiful strip of water in a sea of pavement, bring students out every night of the week. With classy bars and legal drinking, we are not sure how students manage to get any work done. Even during finals period, when many college campuses in the United States are dull and depressing, the bars are bumping.
The evenings are special as well as budget travelers and students capitalize on ability to save a couple euros by enjoying aperitivo. This unique Italian traditions combines two things, which Americans and Italians both love: alcohol and food. For one price (usually around €8) you get an alcoholic beverage and are treated to a buffet. Though the plastic plates are rather small to prevent diners from consuming too much, aperitivo is an Americans dream—the buffet is unlimited. The amount of dishes to choose from can be a bit overwhelming, which is why we suggest you take small scoops of each before deciding what you like most in the unlimited buffet (sounds American, not Italian right?). Salads, grilled vegetables, traditional American finger food, and pastas are all on the menu, which is ideal for the picky eater. Just about every bar offers this aperitif option from about €6-10. The bars are completely accepting, serving anyone from the guy with faded shorts and a Nirvana t-shirt to the stylish woman wearing a slim cut Zara dress. Either sit and dine over a beer as an aperitif or arrive later to join the young adult crowd flooding the streets lining the Navigli Grande.
Though there is little to distinguish between the 30+ choices, here are two of our favorites:
• BOND: Various genres of live music play here whether it be a DJ bumping EDM or a bassist rocking softer beats. Combined with the sleek, bright, modern decor and open space to get up and move. this place would be fit for 007 himself, though we are not sure that inspired the design. Grab a drink and spill out onto the street to join the massive student party. Pasquale Paoli, 2.
• MAG CAFE: Anyone who’s someone frequents this classy bar boasting bulb-like chandeliers and chocolate wood decor. Always crowded and popping, Mag is the place to make some friends before hitting the clubs. Ripa di Porta Ticinese, 43.
Club Life
The high life can be rough and full of rejection. It’s a bit like the college process. You work extremely hard to find the perfect outfit to make you stand out in the crowd. Your plan for the night is to hit six of Milan’s 100 clubs. Armani, Gucci, and Alcatraz are your reach clubs; Hollywood is your target; Old Fashioned and La Banque are your safeties. Is that enough? Will you get in or is your clubbing future destined for failure? You consult a group of Italian men donning Louis and Burberry—they must know the scene! “What is the key to getting in?” you plead with your mundane American accent. The guys smile and reply, “It’s a game. The bouncers decide and it depends on who you know” in broken English. The lipstick is on, the button-down shirts are ironed, you’ve pre-gamed at one of the Navigli bars, and you’re ready to hit the clubs. Armani: rejection. Gucci: rejection. Perhaps Alcatraz you will get lucky… after waiting 45 min in line. The overarching theme of the Milano club scene is that it is not rational. But that isn’t really surprising given the zebra leather couches and absurdly expensive decor at the top notch clubs. Leave with a plan—check out the websites to examine the nightly sets and ask around for advice. Your decision depends on the genre of music you are looking for and the amount you are willing to shell out. Each club has a unique personality. One thing is for sure, your night will be expensive. Between the taxis, club cover charges, and drinks it can be difficult to stay under €100.
ESSENTIALS
Practicalities
• TOURIST INFORMATION: There are a few different tourist information spots in Milan. Milano Centrale Station: Open M-F alongside track 21 from 9am-5pm, Sa-Su 9am-12:30pm. Piazza Castello: Located at Piazza Castello on the corner of Via Beltrami. Open M-F 9am-6pm, Sa 9am-1:30pm and 2-6pm, Su and holidays 9am-1:30pm and 2-5pm. (www.visitamilano.it. 02 77 40 43 43)
• POST OFFICES: Go to www.posteitaliane.it to search for your closest branch. There is post office in Milano Centrale Station, which is fairly convenient, and others are scattered throughout the city.
Emergency
• AMBULANCE: 118
• POLICE: 113
• CARABINIERI: 112
• FIRE DEPARTMENT: 115
• PHARMACIES: Pharmacies Hotline: 800 801185. All pharmacies have the green crosses on their stores.
• HOSPITALS: Ospedale Fatebenefratelli (C.so di Porta Nuova, 23. 02 63 631). San Giuseppe (Via S. Vittore, 12. 02 85 991). Istituto Europeo Di Oncologia – Eurpean Institute of Oncology (Via Ripamonti, 435. 02 57 48 91). San Carlo Borromeo (Via Pio II, 3. 02 40 45 404). San Paolo (Via A di Rudinì, 8. 02 81841)
Getting Around
Tickets can be bought at Metro Underground stations or at tabbachi shops. One-way tickets are €1.50. Passes are €4.50 for 24hrs or €8.25 for 48hrs. The Milano Card is €13 and provides free transport, free medical service, and discounts (usually 10-20%) on certain museums, shopping, restaurants, etc. for a given period of time (24 or 72hrs).
It’s the city on water, a bastion of art, culture, and seafood, a mystical, well-preserved, tourist-transformed shell of century-old grandeur. Venice is well-visited for a reason: it’s magical. Both in the glimmering interior of the Basilica di San Marco and at the edge of the city where you find yourself alone with sky and sea, Venice has an enchantment all its own that proves its place in the pantheon of Italian cities. Sure the overpriced gelato, crowds of ignorant tourists, and endless parades of fake Prada bags may make you sick and remind you of modern world realities. But as you meander along the maze of streets with a willingness to get lost, you will find that the old museum-turned palaces, 16th-century bridges, and unexplored alleyways built on 118 wood-piled islands truly make Venice unlike any other place in the world. Whether it is the myth of gorgeous gondoliers or the allure of a future Atlantis, Venice is undeniably a must on your journey through Italy.
SIGHTS
BASILICA DI SAN MARCO
CHURCH
Piazza San Marco 328
041 27 08 311
Italian churches are famed for their extravagant ceilings and domes commissioned by the Church, which at the time had no limit to its spending spree. Golden domes, frescoes by the Renaissance masters, and endless rows of marble statues all have tourists craning their heads back in awe, which makes for some of the least flattering poses with jaws dropped, tongues hanging out, and hair gravitating to the floor as if just shot with a tranquilizer. Basilica di San Marco (Saint Mark’s Basilica for those with the ethnocentric intuition to ignore any writing not in English—there are a lot of those in Italy), which overlooks the water and is Venice’s most renowned church, is perhaps an exception to the zombie-esque tourist phenomenon. Instead of growing entranced by the still-beautiful five domes dominating the golden ceiling of saints, visitors drop their heads to the floor and stare at the intricate, colorful mosaics, making for a crowd of tour groups and students like yourself bumping into each other left and right like teenage girls texting and walking.
Nonetheless, St. Mark’s Basilica started in 828 and, according to the doge’s order, is most definitely a must-see as long you avoid the multitude of little fees you can acquire inside. But don’t worry, there is a silent space dominated by its red hues set aside for praying if you’re inspired to be at one with Jesus. And most importantly, confessions are free. So you can go right in and liberate yourself from the sins of premarital sex and binge drinking that was your Venetian experience the night before. To top things off, this is probably the only time on your journey that you’ll be happy you lugged around your heavy pack. Walk just past the Basilica away from the corner and veer the slightest bit right onto Calle S. Basso, where you can drop off your bag and skip the line into the Basilica (#winning)! And with the time and money you saved, dish out €8 to burn some beer carbs on the 98 meters up St. Mark’s Campanile for a bird’s eye view of the sinking lagoon city.
Basilica free; San Marco Museum €5; Treasury €3; Golden Altarpiece €2. Easter-Nov M-Sa 9:45am-5pm, Su 2-5pm; Nov to Easter 9:45am-5pm, Su 2-4pm.