91 549 29 68EL CHAPANDAZ
BAR
C. de Fernando, 77
91 549 29 68
Ever wonder to yourself how you would spice up a typical night out at the bar? How about by adding some panther’s milk and cave decorations? If that’s your idea of fun, El Chapandaz is the place for you. During the day, it’s just a funky-looking restaurant, but at night it transforms into the most ridiculous bar in Madrid. It is a fully functional, lactating cave with stalactites hanging from the ceiling that periodically drip milk into glass pitchers. The house drink, Leche de Pantera (panther’s milk), is a combination of rum, cinnamon, and that special milk. If you are suspicious (for perfectly good reasons), it also offers standard fare and a full menu of sweet, fruity, and colorful drinks. The bar is generally quiet until 11pm but fills up with a mostly international, study-abroad crowd that stops in for the novelty before heading out to the clubs.
From 
Moncloa, head to the intersection of C. de Fernando and C. de la Princesa and walk east down C. de Fernando. International night Tu. Drink €10. 
Open daily 1pm-3am.
ARTS AND CULTURE
With some of the best art museums, public festivals, and performing arts groups in the world, Madrid’s arts and culture scene is thriving. From street performers in Parque del Buen Retiro to Broadway musicals, you can find anything you’re looking for in this metropolis.
Corridas (Bullfights)
Whether you view it as animal cruelty or national sport, the spectacle of la corrida (bullfighting) is a cherished Spanish tradition. Although it has its origins in Roman gladiator practices, bullfighting is now a distinctly Spanish sport. The sport has been subject to continuing animal rights protest in recent years, in addition to suffering fading popularity with the younger generations. More a form of performance art than a sport (every bullfight has the same outcome of the bull “losing”), bullfighting draws hordes of tourists (in addition to lots of old Spanish men) who flock to see the tradition that Hemingway celebrated as “the only art in which the artist is in danger of death and in which the degree of brilliance in the performance is left to the fighter’s honor.” It’s not for the faint of heart, of course—be prepared to see a bull suffer for 20-30min. before being killed.
If you choose to go, it is important to know a little bit about the rituals of the sport. The bullfight has three stages. First, the picadores (lancers on horseback), pierce the bull’s neck muscles. Then, assistants thrust decorated darts called banderillas into the bull’s back to injure and fatigue it. Finally, the matador kills his large opponent with a sword thrust between the bull’s shoulder blades, killing it instantly. Animal rights activists call the rituals savage and cruel, but aficionados call it an art that requires quick thinking and skill.
The best place to see bullfighting in Madrid is at the country’s biggest arena, Plaza de las Ventas, where you can buy tickets in sol (sun) or sombra (shade) sections. Get your tickets at the arena the Friday or Saturday leading up to the bullfight. (C. de Alcalá 237913 56 22 00 www.las-ventas.com Ventas ticket office open 10am-2pm and 5-8pm.) You’ll pay more to sit out of the sun, but either way, you’ll have a good view of the feverish crowds that cheer on the matador and wave white handkerchiefs, called pañuelos, after a particularly good fight. Tickets range from €5 for nosebleeds to €80 for front-row seats. Each ticket includes usually around three bullfights, each of which lasts 20-30min. Rent a seat cushion at the stadium or bring your own for the stone seats. Bullfights are held Sundays and holidays throughout most of the year. During the Fiesta de San Isidro in May, fights are held almost every day, and the top bullfighters come face to face with the fiercest bulls. People across Spain are bitterly divided about the future of the sport, so visitors should approach the topic with sensitivity.
Flamenco
Flamenco is a gypsy art that dates back to 18th-century Andalucia and has become a 21st-century business in Madrid. Many flamenco clubs offer overpriced dinners combined with overdone music and dance spectaculars geared toward tourists. There are some clubs in Madrid that offer more traditional and soulful flamenco. You’ll still pay a decent amount to see it, but it’s a great way to learn about the art form that is often described as Europe’s counterpart to the blues.
CASA PATAS
LAS HUERTAS
C. de los Cañizares, 10
91 369 04 96
Casa Patas is like the Sobrino de Botin of flamenco venues. It’s the place to be if you want the authentic, traditional experience—but it’s pricey and attracts a large tourist crowd. Throughout most of the day, it functions as a normal Spanish restaurant, but at night, Madrid’s finest dancers perform the art of flamenco on the stage in the back of the restaurant. Tickets aren’t cheap, but they’re worth every penny if you’re looking for a proper flamenco show. Shows sell out frequently, particularly in the summer months, so be sure to get your tickets in advance. The restaurant and tapas bar up front serves the usual suspects: platters of jamón y queso (€19), fried squid (€13), and albondigas de la abuela.
Antón Martín. From the metro, walk up C. de Atocha and turn left onto C. del Olivar. Casa Patas is on the right. Tickets €32; includes 1 drink. Entrees €10-25. Open M-Th 1-4pm and 8pm-midnight, F-Sa 7:30pm-2am. Flamenco M-Th 8:30pm, F-Sa 9pm and midnight.
CARDAMOMO
LAS HUERTAS
C. de Echegaray, 15
91 369 07 57
Cardamomo advertises itself as the “only tablao flamenco recommended by The New York Times. “More importantly, Let’s Go recommends Cardamomo for showcasing less touristy flamenco that features a raw, improvisational quality to it. The focus is more on rhythm and movement and less on the kitschy costumes that are usually synonymous with flamenco. You can expect syncopated guitars, soulful old men crooning flamenco verse, and swift choreography—all in an intimate space, with spectators packed table to table in the narrow interior. The nightly sets are short (50min.) but intense and a good way of seeing flamenco without dedicating an entire evening to it.
Sol. Walk east toward Pl. de las Cortes and make a right onto C. de Echegaray. Ticket €25; includes 1 drink. Check with your hostel for discounts. Shows daily 10:30pm.
Fútbol
You might see churches in every city you visit in Spain, but the official national religion is fútbol. Matches are a beloved spectacle everywhere in Spain, but particularly in Madrid, which is home to Real Madrid, arguably the greatest soccer club the world has ever known (at least that’s what the locals will tell you). On game days, which start around the end of August and run through the end of May, locals line the streets and pack bars to watch the matches. Celebrations after games are common in public plazas and squares, helped by the fact that most matches fall on Saturdays. For Real Madrid, the victory party always takes place in Plaza Cibeles, just outside the town hall. Fútbol doesn’t just happen on the field in Spain—it takes over city life, particularly on big game days. The other two major teams in Madrid are Atlético and Getafe.
Seeing a game live with 80,000 other fans can be an incredible experience but is often logistically difficult to arrange. Tickets are expensive and hard to come by. All teams sell a number of tickets through their stadium box offices and release a limited number online through their club website. If you are intent on going to a game, research ticket availability at least two weeks in advance. Tickets are also available from vendors outside the stadium, but these are often counterfeited or marked up well above face value. Tickets for Atlético and Getafe tend to be cheaper and more available than tickets for Real Madrid. Regardless of whether you make it to the stadium or not, it’s worth going to a local tapas bar to watch.
NORTH OF CITY CENTER
Av. Cochina Espina, 1
91 464 22 34
www.santiagobernabeu.com, www.realmadrid.com
Site of the 2010 European Final Cup, Estadio Santiago Bernabeu is also home to Real Madrid, named the greatest club of the 20th century by FIFA. Tours are a bit pricey (€19) but a must-do for soccer fans; they take you through the club’s most hallowed grounds, from the trophy room to the visitors’ dressing room to the pitch itself. If you can, try to see an actual game at the stadium, as tickets can start as low as €25. Advance tickets can be purchased at www.servicaixa.com, and remaining tickets are released on the club website at 11am the Monday before each game.
Santiago Bernabeu. The stadium is across the street from the metro. Ticket €30-300. Tours €19, under 14 €13. Season runs Sept-May. Check online for game schedules and tour times.
ESTADIO VICENTE CALDERÓN
SOUTH OF CITY CENTER
Paseo de la Virgen del Puerto, 67
91 364 22 34
Estadio Vicente Calderón is home to the Atlético Madrid fútbol club. With a storied past that includes European Cups and international recognition, this Madrid-based club participates in the esteemed Primera División of La Liga. While they’ve had some big wins in the past, Atlético Madrid is the perennial underdog in the city rivalry with Real Madrid. While this stadium may not be the city’s biggest stage for football, tickets for games are more readily available and cheaper. Tickets can be purchased at www.servicaixa.com or on the club website.
Pirámides. From the metro, head west 1 block to C. de Toledo, follow 1 block south to Paseo de los Melancolicos. The stadium is on the left. Prices vary. Tours €10. Check the website for schedule. Tours Tu-Su 11am-8pm.
SHOPPING
El Rastro
Every Sunday from 9am-3pm, thousands of people from across Madrid and beyond flock to the Ribera de Curtidores. Packed like sardines on the avenue, pedestrians push and shove to move forward, gaping at the rainbow flags and kaleidoscopic stands lining the street. They haggle with vendors, pushing prices down, handle an eclectic range of objects—from medieval swords to fresh tulips—carry bags stuffed with dirt-cheap, second-hand clothing. “Precios bajos!” the vendors yell across the street, trying to outdo their neighboring competitors to attract more customers. Here, it is loud, crowded, dusty.
This is El Rastro, the capital city’s largest flea market.
In English, “El Rastro” translates to “the trail.” According to legend, pig slaughterhouses and tanneries once stood in the area now occupied by the marketplace. The market itself is one of the oldest in Western Europe, and in the 19th century, it was a setting for the rogues and crooks of Madrid to buy and sell a hodgepodge of items. Times have changed since then—but not by a long measure. Buyers can still purchase a random assortment of new and used items in the outdoor menagerie, but should be wary of the inevitable pickpockets who loiter in the area and prey on unaware pedestrians.
Buyers can choose from more than 3,000 colorful, diverse merchant stands to purchase goods in the market. Buried deep within the market—which is located on Ribera de Curtidores and Plaza de Cascorro—one can find a mixture of traditional and modern items, from rich red rugs to contemporary art mockups. It’s no exaggeration to say there’s something for everyone in this market.
Less visited, but perhaps home to even more hidden gems than El Rastro’s main avenue, are the market’s side streets, narrow offshoots bordering the market. Here, the quieter streets are clear of entertainers (statue men, women who crank eerie music boxes) and often can hold some incredible and unique collector’s items, like old pieces of clocks, keys, and jewel-like stones.
After wandering up and down the streets of el Rastro, pedestrians will be grateful to see cafes offering cheap breakfasts of churros con chocolate or ice-cold beers. When visiting the market, make sure to check out the many tapas bars in the area or inexpensive menús del día to satiate a hungry stomach.
ESSENTIALS
Practicalities
• TOURIST OFFICES: The Madrid Tourism Centre in Pl. Mayor (91 588 16 36 www.esmadrid.com) is a good place to start; this is where you’ll find city and transit maps as well as suggestions for activities, food, and accommodations. English is spoken at most tourist offices throughout the city. There are additional tourist offices and stands around town; look for large orange stands with exclamation marks. Calle del Duque de Medinaceli 2. (91 429 49 51 Open M-Sa 9:30am-8:30pm, Su and holidays 9:30am-2pm.) Estacion de Atocha. (91 528 46 30 Open M-Sa 9:30am-8:30pm, Su and holidays 9:30am-2pm) Madrid-Barajas Airport Terminal 1. (91 305 86 56) Terminal 4. (]90 210 00 07 Open daily 9:30am-8:30pm.) There is also a tourist office at the airport train station. (91 315 99 76 Open M-Sa 8am-8pm, Su 9am-2pm.)
• TOURS: Different themed tours leave regularly from the Madrid Tourism Centre. For dates, times, and more info, visit www.esmadrid.com. Many youth hostels host tapas tours, pub crawls, and walking tours for reasonable prices. Check out www.toursnonstop.com. LeTango Tours is run by a Spanish-American husband-wife team, with tours that take you to local bars, provide fun city facts, and explain Spanish traditions. (91 369 47 52 www.letango.com). Run by historian and writer Stephen Drake-Jones, the Wellington Society (60 914 32 03 www.wellsoc.org) offers different themed tours of Madrid and daytrips to Toledo and Segovia. Another option is Madrid Vision (91 779 18 88 www.madridvision.es), which runs the double-decker red buses that you see throughout the city. Choose between the historicó and moderno routes. Each route makes 15-20 stops around the city. ( €17; discounts online.)
• CURRENCY EXCHANGE: The most convenient (although not always the cheapest) place to change your money is at the airport. There are also currency exchanges in Puerta Del Sol and Gran Vía (look for booths that say “change”), but try to use these as a last resort, as rates are bad and commission charges are high. Most hostales and hotels will also be able to change your money; rates vary by location. Another option is Banco Santander Central Hispano, which charges €12-15 commission on non-American Express Travelers Cheques (max. exchange €300). Wherever you go, be sure to bring your passport as identification.
• LUGGAGE STORAGE: Store your luggage at the Aeropuerto Internacional de Barajas. (91 393 68 05 1-day €3.70; 2-15 days €4.78 per day. Open 24hr.) or at the bus station. ( €1.40 per bag per day. Open M-F 6:30am-10:30pm, Sa 6:30am-3pm.)
• POST OFFICES: Buy stamps (sellos) from a post office or tobacco stand. Madrid’s central post office is at Pl. de Cibeles. (91 523 06 94; 90 219 71 97 Open M-F 8:30am-9:30pm.) Mailboxes are usually yellow, with one slot for “Madrid” and another for everywhere else.
• POSTAL CODE: 28008.
Emergency
• EMERGENCY NUMBERS: Medical emergency: 061 or 112. For non-emergency medical concerns, go to Unidad Medica Angloamericana, which has English-speaking personnel on duty by appointment. (C. del Conde de Aranda, 1, 1st fl. 91 435 18 23 Open M-F 9am-8pm, Sa 10am-1pm.)
• POLICE: Servicio de Atención al Turista Extranjero (SATE) are police who deal exclusively with tourists and help with contacting embassies, reporting crimes, and canceling credit cards. (C. Legantos, 19 91 548 85 27; 90 210 21 12 Open daily 9am-midnight.)
Getting There
By Plane
All flights come in through the Aeropuerto Internacional de Barajas (902 404 704 www.aena.es). The Barajas metro stop connects the airport to the rest of Madrid (€2). To take the subway into the city center, take the #8 toward Nuevo Ministerios, transfer to the #10 toward Puerta del Sur, get off at Tribunal (3 stops), transfer to the #1 toward Valdecarros, and get off at Sol. The journey should take 45-60min. By bus, the Bus-Aeropeurto 200 leaves from the national terminal (T2) and runs to the city center through Avenida de America. (90 250 78 50 Every 15min., 5:20am-11:30pm.) Taxis (€35. 30min.) are readily available outside of the airport. For more info on ground transport, visit www.metromadrid.es.
By Train
Trains (90 224 02 02 www.renfe.es) from northern Europe and France arrive on the north side of the city at Chamartin. (C. Augustin de Foxa 91 300 69 69, 91 506 63 29.) Trains to and from the south of Spain and Portugal use Atocha; buy tickets at the station or online. There is a RENFE information office at the main terminal. (90 224 02 02 Open daily 7am-7pm.) AVE trains offer high-speed service throughout Spain, including Barcelona, Salamanca, Segovia, Sevilla, and Toledo. Be sure to keep your ticket, or you won’t be able to pass through the turnstiles. Call RENFE for both international destinations and domestic travel. (902 24 34 02 for international destinations; 90 224 02 02 for domestic.) Ticket windows are open daily 6:30am-9pm; when they’re closed, you can buy tickets at vending machines.
By Bus
If you prefer four wheels, many private bus companies run through Madrid, and most pass through Estación Sur de Autobuses. (C. Mendez Alvaro 91 468 42 00 www.estacionautobusesmadrid.com Info booth open daily 6:30am-1am.) National destinations include Algeciras, Alicante, Oviedo, and Toledo, among others. Inquire at the station, online, or by phone for specific information on routes and schedules.
Getting Around
By Metro
The Madrid metro system is by far the easiest, cheapest way to get you almost anywhere you need to go in the city. It is clean, safe, and recently renovated. Service begins M-Sa at 6am, Su at 7am, and ends daily around 1:30am. Try to avoid rush hours (daily 8-10am, 1-2pm, and 4-6pm). You can buy either a one-way ticket (€1), or, if you’re making multiple trips, you can save by purchasing a combined 10-trip metrobus ticket (€9.30). Trains run frequently, and green timers above most platforms show the next approaching train times. Be sure to grab a free metro map (available at any ticket booth or tourist office). Abonos mensuales, or monthly passes, grant unlimited travel within the city proper for €47.60, while abonos turísticos (tourist passes) come in various increments (1, 2, 3, 4, or 7 days) and sell for €6-25 at the metro stations or online. For metro information, visit www.metromadrid.es or call 90 244 44 03.
By Bus
Buses cover areas that are inaccessible by the metro and are a great way to see the city. The pamphlet “Visiting the Downtown on Public Transport” lists routes and stops. (Free at any tourist office or downloadable at www.madrid.org.) Tickets for the bus and metro are interchangeable. The Búho (owl), or night bus, travels from Pl. de Cibeles and other marked routes along the outskirts of the city. ( M-Th every 30min. midnight-3am, every hr. 3-6am; F-Sa every 20min. midnight-6am; Su every 30 min. midnight-3am.) These buses, marked on the essential Red de Autobuses Nocturnos (available at any tourist office) run along 26 lines covering regular daytime routes. For info, call Empresa Municipal de Transportes (90 250 78 50 www.emtmadrid.es). Estacion Sur (C. Mendez Alvaro 91 468 42 00) covers mainly southern and southeastern destinations outside Madrid, such as Granada, Malaga, Sevilla, and Valencia. Visit www.avanzabus.com for timetables and routes.
By Taxi
Registered Madrid taxis are black or white and have red bands and small insignias of a bear and madroño tree (symbols of Madrid). Hail them on the street or at taxi stands all over the city. A green light means they’re available. The fare starts at €1.75 and increases by €1 every kilometer thereafter. To call a city taxi, dial 91 447 51 80.
By Moped And Bike
Biking in the city is ill-advised, but Casa de Campo and Dehesa de la Villa both have easily navigable bike trails. You can rent a bike from Karacol Sport. (C. Tortosa 8 91 539 96 33 www.karacol.com Cash deposit or €50 and photocopy of your passport required. €18 per day. Open M-W 10:30am-3pm and 5-8pm, Th 10:30am-3pm and 5-9:30pm, F-Su 10:30am-3pm and 5-8pm.) Motocicletas Antonio Castro rents mopeds for €23-95 per day, including unlimited mileage and insurance, but you’ll need your own lock and helmet. You must be at least 25 years old and have a driver’s license for motorcycles. (C. Clara del Rey, 17 91 413 00 47 www.blafermotos.com Open M-F 8am-6pm, Sa 10am-1:30pm.)
Barcelona, a favorite travel destination for millions worldwide, is the second largest city in Spain and the capital city of Catalonia. The city is bustling and loud, and the first thing it will tell you is to get lost. Not in the “you don’t belong here” sense, but because you can walk around aimlessly, with literally no idea where you are, and still have a good time. Around every corner there will be an alluring alleyway of stores, a museum of interest or beautiful building, or a tapas bar with a seat calling your name, and you genuinely need no directions to have a remarkable trip. This loudness also comes in a multitude of languages, and if you have come with the intention of practicing your Spanish, you’ll need to make it known to the locals because they will talk to you in English if they are aware that you speak it. This is because Barcelona is an inherently social place. In many restaurants, there are more outdoor seats than indoor seats, because being integrated with the community is part of what makes the city so unique. With a thriving nightlife in front of a gorgeous beach, historical remnants of some of the world’s most significant artists, and one of the best public transit systems of any global city, Barcelona has more than enough attractions to entertain travelers: young, old, single, or grouped.
ORIENTATION
Though a large and complex city, Barcelona’s barris (neighborhoods) are fairly well-defined. The Ciutat Vella (old city) is the city’s heart, comprised of El Raval (west of Las Ramblas), Barri Gòtic (between Las Ramblas and Via Laietana), El Born (between Via Laietana and Parc de la Ciutadella), and La Barceloneta (the peninsula south of El Born). Farther down the coast (to the left as you look at a map with the sea at the bottom) from the Ciutat Vella is the park-mountain Montjuïc and the small neighborhood of Poble Sec between Montjuïc and Avinguda Paral·lel. Farther inland from the Ciutat Vella is the large, central, rigidly gridded zone of l’Eixample, and still farther away from the sea is Gràcia. The Plaça de Catalunya is one of the city’s most central points, located where Las Ramblas meets the Passeig de Gràcia; it is essentially the meeting point of El Raval, Barri Gòtic, and l’Eixample.
Barri Gòtic and Las Ramblas
You will get lost in Barri Gòtic. Knowing this, the best way to properly orient yourself in the confusing neighborhood, where streets still follow their medieval routes, is to take a day to learn your way around. Las Ramblas provides the western boundary of the neighborhood, stretching from the waterfront to Plaça de Catalunya. Via Laietana marks the eastern border, running nearly parallel to Las Ramblas. The primary east-west artery running between Las Ramblas and V. Laietana is known as Carrer de Ferran between Las Ramblas and the central Plaça de Sant Jaume and as Carrer de Jaume I between Pl. Sant Jaume and V. Laietana. Of the many plazas hiding in the Barri Gòtic, Plaça Reial (take the tiny C. de Colom off Las Ramblas) and Plaça de Sant Jaume are the grandest. The neighborhood is better known, though, for its more cramped spaces, like the narrow alleys covered with arches or miniature placetas in the shadows of parish churches. The L3 and L4 metro lines serve this neighborhood, with Drassanes, Liceu, and Catalunya along Las Ramblas (L3) and Jaume I at the intersection of C. Jaume I and V. Laietana.
El Born
El Born, which makes up the eastern third of the Ciutat Vella, is celebrated for being slightly less touristy than the Barri Gòtic and slightly less prostitute-y than El Raval. The neighborhood is renowned for its confusing medieval streets, whose ancient bends hide fashionable boutiques and restaurants both traditional and modern. The Passeig del Born, the lively hub of this quirky barri, makes for a good bar- and restaurant-lined starting point.
El Raval
There’s no point beating around the bush: El Raval is one of Barcelona’s more dangerous neighborhoods. But this doesn’t mean that you should avoid it. Just be careful and aware—even during the day—and be prepared to deal with persistent drug dealers and aggressive prostitutes. In particular, avoid Carrer de Sant Ramon. Clearly, El Raval does not lack character, and it is actually one of the city’s most interesting neighborhoods. Everything tends to be significantly less expensive than on the other side of Las Ramblas, and a large student population supports a bevy of quirky restaurants and bars. Areas around the Rambla del Raval and the Carrer de Joaquim Costa hide small, unique bars and late-night cafes frequented by Barcelona’s alternative crowd. For daytime shopping, check out Riera Baixa, a street lined entirely with secondhand shops that also hosts a flea market on Saturdays, or the ritzier neighborhood around Carrer del Doctor Dou, Carrer del Pintor Fortuny, and Carrer Elisabets for higher-end (though still reasonably priced) shops.
L’Eixample
In this posh neighborhood (pronounced leh-SHAM-plah), big blocks, wide avenues, and dazzling architecture mean lots of walking and lots of exciting storefronts. Modernista buildings line Passeig de Gràcia (first word pronounced pah-SAYCH), which runs from north to south through the neighborhood’s center (Diagonal, Passeig de Gràcia, Catalunya). L’Eixample Dreta encompasses the area to the east around the Sagrada Família, and Eixample Esquerra comprises the area closer to the University, uphill from Plaça de la Universitat. Though the former contains some surprisingly cheap accommodations for those willing to make the hike, the Eixample Esquerra is somewhat more pedestrian-friendly and more interesting to walk around. While this neighborhood is notoriously expensive, there are some cheaper and more interesting options as you get closer to Pl. Universitat. The stretch of Carrer del Consell de Cent west of Pg. de Gràcia boasts vibrant nightlife, where many “hetero-friendly” bars, clubs, and hotels give it the nickname Gaixample.
Barceloneta
Barceloneta, the triangular peninsula that juts out into the Mediterranean, is a former mariners’ and fishermen’s neighborhood, built on a sandbank at the beginning of the 18th century to replace the homes destroyed by the construction of the ciutadella. The grid plan, a consequence of Enlightenment city planning, gives the neighborhood’s narrow streets a distinct character, seasoned by the salty sea breezes that whip through the urban canyons. Tourists and locals are drawn to the unconventional Barceloneta by the restaurants and views along the Passeig Joan de Borbó, the renowned beaches along the Passeig Marítim de la Barceloneta, and the discotecas at the Port Olímpic.
Gràcia
Gràcia is hard to navigate by metro. While this may at first seem like a negative, the poor municipal planning is actually a bonus. Filled with artsy locals, quirky shops, and a few lost travelers, Gràcia is a quieter, more out-of-the-way neighborhood, best approached by foot. Diagonal will drop you off at the northern end of the Pg. de Gràcia; follow it across Avda. Diagonal as it becomes Carrer Gran de Gràcia, one of the neighborhood’s main thoroughfares. Fontana lies farther up on C. Gran de Gràcia. If you’re heading uphill on C. Grande Gràcia, any right turn will take you into the charmingly confusing grid of Gràcia’s small streets, of which Carrer de Verdi, running parallel to C. Gran de Gràcia several blocks away, is probably the most scenic. For bustling plaças both day and night, your best bets are Plaça de la Vila de Gràcia (more commonly known as Pl. Rius i Taulet), Plaça del Sol, and Plaça de la Revolució de Setembre de 1868, off of C. de Ros de Olano.
Montjuïc and Poble Sec
Montjuïc, the mountain just down the coast from the old center of Barcelona, is one of the city’s chief cultural centers. Its slopes are home to public parks, some of the city’s best museums, theaters that host everything from classical music to pop, and a kick-ass castle on its peak. Montjuïc (old Catalan for “mountain of the Jews,” possibly for the Jewish cemetery once located here) also has some of the most incredible views of the city. Many approach the mountain from the Plaça de Espanya, passing between the two towers to ascend toward the museums and other sights; others take the funicular from Paral·lel.
The small neighborhood of Poble Sec (Catalan for “dry village”) lies at the foot of Montjuïc, between the mountain and Avinguda del Paral·lel. Tree-lined, sloping streets characterize the largely residential neighborhood, with the Plaça del Sortidor as its heart and the pedestrian-friendly, restaurant-lined Carrer de Blai as its commercial artery.
SIGHTS
Sights in Barcelona run the gamut from cathedrals to casas to museums and more. Here’s a brief overview of what each neighborhood has to offer. El Gòtic is Barcelona’s most tourist-ridden neighborhood; despite the crowds of foreigners, however, the Gothic Quarter is filled with alley after alley of medieval charm. Beginning along the sea and cutting straight through to Pl. de Catalunya, Las Ramblas is Barcelona’s world-famous tree-lined pedestrian thoroughfare that attracts thousands of visitors daily. El Born is a sight in itself, with ancient streets surrounded by sloping buildings or crumbling arches suddenly opening onto secluded placetes. El Raval has its own beauties, from the medieval Hospital de la Santa Creu i Sant Pau to the present-day artwork housed in the modern buildings of MACBA and CCCB. L’Eixample’s sights are mostly composed of marvelous examples of modernista architecture; the Sagrada Família, in particular, is a must-see. Barceloneta is filled with Catalan pride, from the red-and-yellow flags hanging on apartment balconies to the museum devoted to Catalonia and its history. Gràcia contains the epic mountain/modernista retreat, Parc Güell, as well as a few independent examples of this historic Barcelonan style. Finally, Montjuïc—you know, that big hill with the castle on it that you can see from just about anywhere in Barcelona—is home to some phenomenal museums, a model Spanish village, and, of course, that castle.
Barri Gòtic and Las Ramblas
Beginning along the famous seaside, tree-lined pedestrian thoroughfare that attracts thousands of visitors daily, the walkway demarcated as La Rambla funnels thousands of tourists every year through its course. Marked by shady trees, cafes galore, tourist traps, and a multifarious array of street performers, gorgeous edifices, animal vendors, and extremely adroit pickpockets, the five distinct promenades seamlessly mesh to create the most lively and exciting pedestrian bustle in Barcelona (and perhaps in all of Europe). The ramblas, in order from Pl. de Catalunya to the Columbus Monument are: La Rambla des Canaletes, La Rambla dels Estudis, La Rambla de Sant Josep, La Rambla dels Caputxins, and La Rambla de Santa Mònica.
MUSEU D’HISTORIA DE LA CIUTAT
ROMAN RUINS
Pl. del Rei
932 56 21 00
If you thought the winding streets of the Barri Gòtic were old school, check out the Museu d’Història de la Ciutat’s Roman ruins, hidden 20m underneath Pl. del Rei. Beneath the medieval plaza lies the excavation site of the long-gone predecessor of Barcelona: the Roman city of Barcino. Raised walkways allow passage through the site of the ruins beneath the plaza; regardless, watch your step, as some parts can be dark and uneven. You’ll probably catch sight of huge ceramic wine flasks dotting the intricate ancient mosaics—surefire proof of Barcelona’s revelrous ancestry. The second part of the museum features the (comparatively) newer Palacio Real Major, a 14th-century palace for Catalan-Aragonese monarchs. Inside the palace, the glorious and impressively empty Saló de Tinell (Throne Room) is the iconic seat where Ferdinand and Isabella welcomed Columbus after his journey to the New World. The Capilla de Santa Àgata uses its rotating exhibits to delve into the intricacies of the modern Catalonian’s way of life.
Jaume I. Free multilingual audio tours. Museum and exhibition €7, students and ages 16-25 €5, under 16 free. Open Apr-Oct Tu-Sa 10am-7pm, Su 10am-8pm; Nov-Mar Tu-Sa 10am-5pm, Su 10am-8pm.
AJUNTAMENT DE BARCELONA (CITY HALL)
GOVERNMENT
Pl. de Sant Jaume, enter on C. Font de Sant Miquel
934 02 70 00
The stolid, 18th-century Neoclassical façade facing the Pl. de Sant Jaume hides a more interesting, 15th-century one, located at the old entrance to the left of the building (where the tourist office is on C. Ciutat). You can only get into the City Hall building on Sundays or if you get voted in, but once you’re inside, it’s marvelous. The lower level of this bureaucratic palace is home to many pieces of sculpture from modern Catalan masters, while the upper level showcases elaborate architecture, vivid stained glass, and lavish rooms like the Saló de Cent, from which the Consell de Cent (Council of One Hundred) ruled the city from 1372-1714.
Jaume I. Follow C. de Jaume I to Pl. de Sant Jaume; City Hall is on the left. Tourist info available at entrance. To enter, take alley to the left of City Hall and take a right onto C. Font de Sant Miquel. Free. Open Su 10am-1:30pm. Tours every 30min. in Spanish or Catalan.
CATHEDRAL
Pl. de la Seu
933 15 15 54
Located in the Gothic Quarter, the Cathedral of Santa Eulalia, or the Barcelona Cathedral, is a masterpiece architecturally and the seat of the archbishop of Barcelona. This beautiful gothic cathedral has 500 year old stained glass windows, a gorgeous garden, rooftop access by elevator, many naves and side rooms, and even roaming ducks. It is free to enter and there are no lines, but if you wish to tour the roof or see areas not free to the public such as the museum, the tour costs €6. It‘s not Sagrada Familia, but it’s definitely worth a visit, even if only for an hour. You can get excellent views of the city from the top of the tour, and the inside of the church has spectacular sculptures and paintings. The atmosphere of the cathedral is peaceful and reverant. The sheer size and magnitude will have you in a state of wanderlust, and every window, chamber, and cloister makes for a great photo opportunity. Make sure to dress conservatively and respect those in prayer, and drink from the water fountain which is supposed to be good luck. It’s open for mass some mornings, so if you’re interested, make sure to check out the hours beforehand online. Otherwise, the cathedral is available for any and all to enter as they please during the hours that it’s open.
Jaume I. From the metro, turn left onto V. Laietana, then left onto Av. de la Catedral. Cathedral free. Museu €3. Elevator to terrace €3. Inquire about guided visit to museum, choir, rooftop terraces, and towers, as hours vary. Catedral open M-Sa 8am-12:45pm and 5:15-7:30pm, Su 8am-1:45pm and 5:15-7:30pm. Entry with donation M-Sa 1pm-5pm, Su 2pm-5pm.
PALAU DE LA GENERALITAT
GOVERNMENT
Pl. de Sant Jaume
934 02 46 00
www.gencat.cat/generalitat/eng
Facing the Pl. de Sant Jaume and the Ajuntament, the Palau dela Generalitat is a big player in the plaza’s popularity with protesters and petitioners. The 17th-century exterior conceals a Gothic structure that was obtained by the Catalan government in 1400. Although the majority of visitors will be stuck admiring its wonderfully authoritative feel from the exterior, with a bit of magic (i.e., good timing and advance planning), it’s possible to see the interior. There, visitors will find a Gothic gallery, an orange tree courtyard, St. George’s Chapel, a bridge to the house of the President of the Generalitat, many historic sculptures and paintings, and the Palau’s carillon, a 4898kg instrument consisting of 49 bells that is played on holidays and during special events.
Jaume I. Take C. de Jaume I after exiting the station. Once in Pl. de Sant Jaume; Palau is on the right. Free. Make reservations online at least 2 weeks in advance. Open to the public on Apr 23, Sept 11, and Sept 24, and on the 2nd and 4th Su of each month from 10am-1:30pm.
GRAN TEATRE DEL LICEU
THEATER
Las Ramblas, 51-59
934 85 99 00
Though La Rambla itself is one of Europe’s grandest stages (tourists being the main performers), the highbrow Liceu is known for its operatic and classical presentations. The Baroque interior of the auditorium will leave you gawking at the fact that it only dates to 1999. It was reconstructed following a 1995 fire, and you can’t say they don’t make ’em like they used to. A 20min. tour provides a glimpse of the ornate Sala de Espejos (Room of Mirrors), where Apollo and the Muses look down with their divine gazes and judge theater patrons during intermission. If you’re lucky, you may just catch a glimpse of authentic Spanish ardor in the form of a director yelling furiously during a rehearsal. For a more in-depth tour that won’t leave you spending half of your time looking at the stackable chairs in the foyer or being told about benefactors (always a pleasure, Plácido Domingo), arrange a behind-the-scenes tour with the box office or attend a performance in person (highly recommended—just check out schedules online first).
Liceu. Discounted tickets available. Tours start every 20min. Box office open M-F 1:30pm-8pm.
You can find accommodations in any of the neighborhoods that Let’s Go lists, and they will all have their pros and cons. For more recommendations visit, www.letsgo.com.
HOSTAL MALDÀ
HOSTAL $
C. Pi, 5
933 17 30 02
Hostal Maldà provides a dirt-cheap home away from home, complete with kitschy clocks, ceramics, confusing knickknacks, and a kick-ass manager who could probably be your grandmother. She ensures that the multiple door keys, specific doorman procedures, and 24hr. reception will keep you and your valuables safe.
Liceu. Begin walking away from Las Ramblas in front of the house with the dragon and take an immediate left onto C. Casañas. Stay on this road as it passes in front of the church and through the Pl. del Pi. Enter the Galerias Maldà (interior shopping mall) and follow the signs to the hostel. Singles €15, with shower €20; doubles €30; triples €45; quads €60. Cash only. Reception 24hr.
SANT JORDI: SAGRADA FAMÍLIA
HOSTEL $$
C. Freser, 5
934 46 05 17
www.santjordihostels.com/apt-sagrada-familia/
From the fun staff to the hostel’s apartment-style setup (and even a communal guitar in the main lobby), this place knows how to cater to the backpacking crowd. With rooms for one, two, or four people, you can pick your privacy without the isolation of a pensión. If closer quarters are more your style, they also have air-conditioned eight-, 10-, and 12-person dorms in the next building, whose common areas include Seussian wall niches and a small half-pipe on the terrace.
Sant Pau/Dos de Maig. Walk downhill on C. Dos de Maig toward C. Còrsega. Turn left onto C. Rosselló and stay left as the road splits to C. Freser. 4-bed dorms €16-28; 4-bed hostel rooms €16-28; 6-, 8-, 10-, and 12-bed hostel dorms €16-35 (triples are scarce); singles €18-40; doubles €30-45. Reception 24hr. Quiet hours after 10pm.
ALBERGUE-RESIDENCIA LA CIUTAT
HOSTEL $
C. ca l’Alegre de Dalt, 66
932 13 03 00
This hostel crams 180 beds into a quiet location that’s still close to some popular pubs and bars. Relax between the large lobby decorated with some funky cartoon wall art or the common room. The dorms are simple and brightly painted. Consider asking for a discount rate that skips breakfast to save you a few bucks.
Joanic. Walk along C. l’Escorial for 5-10min., passing through the plaza. Take a right onto C. Marti before the Clinic and take the 1st left onto C. ca l’Alegre de Dalt. 1- to 10-bed dorms €17-20; singles €35-50; doubles €52-60. 1st night deposit required for online booking. Visitors allowed only from 10am-11pm. Reception 24hr.
HELLO BCN HOSTEL
HOSTEL $$
C. Lafont, 8-10
934 42 83 92
Finally, a place where exercise junkies can pump some iron while on vacation. This hostel boasts a gym, a large, spacious common room where dozens of college kids congregate on nightly basis, and late-night excursions. There are several opportunities to go on daytrips, from tanning on Barceloneta’s beaches to trekking at the towering Mt. Monserrat.
Paral·lel. Follow C. Nou de la Rambla up into Poble Sec past Apolo Theater and turn left onto C. Vilà i Vilà, then right onto C. Lafont. Dorms €13-30; doubles €90-100; triples €110-120; quads €100-130. Reception 24hr.
LANDMARK
Corner of Via Laietana and C. de la Princesa
The square immediately surrounding the Jaume I metro stop may now seem like nothing but a place to catch the train or grab a pastry and a lame tourist T-shirt, but the days of Roman Barcino saw this spot as the main gate allowing passage into the city. To revel in some of this seemingly absent history, simply walk parallel to Via Laietana, the ever-bustling street forming one side of the square’s border. For a more contemporary piece of history (though it still dates from the triple digits CE), look no further than the statue of an angel pointing to her toe. This sculpture commemorates the event for which the plaza was named—according to legend, the caravan carrying the remains of St. Eulàlia from the church of Santa Maria del Mar stopped here; suddenly, the urn containing remains became too heavy to carry, and when the caravan members set them down, an angel appeared and pointed to her own toe, alerting the carriers that one of the procession’s officials had stolen St. Eulàlia’s pedal digit. With a shame equivalent to being published with a thumbs down symbol in a Let’s Go travel guide, the church member returned the toe to its brethren and the remains miraculously reverted to their original weight.
Jaume I. Free.
COLUMBUS MONUMENT
TOWER
Portal de la Pau
933 02 52 24
The Mirador de Colom at the coastal tip of La Rambla offers a phenomenal view of the city and an absolutely killer sunrise/sunset just a smidge farther down the coastline (sometimes also called the extra Rambla del Mar). This area features a 60m statue, constructed in the 1880s for Barcelona’s World’s Fair in order to commemorate Christopher Columbus meeting King Ferd and Queen Izzy in Barcelona upon his return from America. Though some say the 7.2m statue at the top of the tower points west to the Americas, it actually points east (fail, right?), supposedly to his hometown of Genoa. Reliefs around the base of the column depict the journey, as do bronze lions that are guaranteed to be mounted by tourists at any given moment. Just don’t try to mount them if you’re stumbling back home up Las Ramblas at dawn, especially if you don’t have a buddy’s camera documenting the whole incident.
Drassanes. Entrance located in base facing water €4, seniors and children €3. Open daily May-Oct 9am-7:30pm; Nov-Apr 9am-6:30pm.
El Born
This part of the ciutat vella (ancient city) is a sight in itself, with ancient streets surrounded by sloping buildings and crumbling arches suddenly opening onto secluded placetes. In addition to the joys of just walking through the neighborhood, there are certain sights you just can’t miss.
PALAU DE LA MÚSICA CATALANA
MUSIC HALL
C. Palau de la Música, 4-6
902 44 28 82
Home to both Barcelona’s Orfeó Choir and the Catalan musical spirit, the Palau is Barcelona’s most spectacular music venue (it became a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1997). Lluís Domènech i Montaner, contemporary of Gaudí and architect of the Hospital de Sant Pau, Casa Fuster, and the Castell dels Tres Dragons, crafted this awe-inspiring modernista masterpiece from humble materials such as brick, ceramic, stone, iron, and glass in just a short three years. True to the Art Nou movement’s principles, the building (1905-08) is covered inside and out with organic motifs. The breathtaking inverted dome of the stained glass ceiling and the tall stained glass windows make the luminous interior shimmer. Columns pose as abstract trees, while intricate ceramic flowers decorate the ceiling. In fact, the concert hall’s designer packed the floral motif in just about every nook and cranny of the theater—see for yourself, it’s rather eye-opening. Behind the stage, angelic muses emerge from the walls, which are part flat ceramic tiles, part stone sculpture. Above and around the stage, angels interact with trees, the riding Valkyries, and musicians such as Wagner and Beethoven. Back in commission after a 30-year hiatus, the Palau’s glorious 3772-pipe organ stands front and center in the upper portion of the hall. Below it hangs the coat of arms of Catalunya in all its splendor, comprised of the cross of St. George (patron saint of Spain) along with four stripes. The Palau offers reduced-admission concerts regularly, which is a nice break from the typical €17 price tag. After touring, you’ll officially be able to declare how artsy and Euro-knowledgeable you are.
Jaume I. On Via Laietana, walk toward the cathedral for about 5min., then take a right onto C. Sant Pere Mas Alt. Palau de la Música Catalana is on the left. Schedule of events and ticketing info on website. Guided tours €17, students €11, under 10 free. 55min. tours daily 10am-3:30pm, in English every hr. and Catalan and Spanish every 30min. Guided tour schedules vary by season. Aug tours daily 9am-6pm, Easter week 10am-6pm. Box office open daily 9:30am-3:30pm; Jul and Aug 9am-8pm.
MUSEU PICASSO
MUSEUM
C. de Montcada, 15-23
932 19 63 10
The Picasso Museum has free admission to all students, but is a very popular tourist destination that usually has long lines and limited capacity. Regardless, it’s worth waiting for because it is truly a treasure trove of art. Upon entering, there are a series of rooms that start from Picasso’s earlier years and lead into his critical success. The museum has informational signs written in Catalan, Spanish, and English that introduce each series of paintings, and each series typically features one defining work of that time. In the rooms that capture his formative years, you can see the original First Communion and Science and Charity paintings, as well as sketches he made for them and a history of their context. As the chronology progresses, the museum takes you through his different periods as an artists and explains the people and places that influenced him. More interesting however, may be the smaller paintings that were donated by his family which receive little to no attention beyond the museum. Many of these, such as “At the Sick Woman’s Side” are beautiful masterpieces that fail to show up even through extensive internet searches. After viewing many of his famous works, the tour leads you to a section of art from the man who founded the museum (a friend and influence of Picasso’s). After, you’ll be sent to a gift shop where you can buy books, posters, and prints of many of the works in store. If you want something but can’t take it around Barcelona with you, they also have a delivery service which might be of interest. The gift shop connects with the bottom of the museum, where you can either return to view more paintings, head to a limited time exhibition if they have it, or make your way out to explore the city.
Jaume I. Walk down C. de la Princesa and turn right onto Carrer de Montcada. Admission €11; ages 16-24 and over 65 €6; under 16, teachers, PinkCard cardholders, and ICOM members free. Audio tour €3. Accepts Mastercard and Visa. 1st Su of each month free, other Su free after 3pm. Open Tu-Su 10am-8pm. Last entry 30min. before close.
PARK, MUSEUMS
Between Pg. de Picasso, C. Pujades, and C. Wellington
The Parc de la Ciutdella is a open park in the Ribera district near the city port. It’s free to access and open throughout the day. Historically, it started as a fortress and was later turned into a park in 1869. It has beautiful gardens, a large lake, enormous sculptures from the 19th and 20th centuries, the Barcelona Zoo and Zoological Museum, a geology museum, several aesthetically appealing buildings, and the enormous Arc de Triomf. Between the Arc and the Parc are usually tons of street performers trying to earn cash quickly for their dances, bubble blowing, or musical talents. The parc has many attractions, but it‘s also a great place to relax or jog when it’s not in peak hours. Because there‘s so much to do, it can often be exceptionally crowded and if you’re trying to unwind then it may cause you more trouble than good. If you’re coming to see the attractions, you can visit the zoo, rent out a boat on the lake for half an hour, or have a picnic and people watch. The parc is rated exceptionally well online, and often regarded as an attraction that cannot be missed. However, despite it’s beauty it is just a park, and should not be considered over other great sites like the Sagrada Familia.
Arc de Triomf. Walk through the arch and down the boulevard to enter the park. Free Wi-Fi available at the Geological Museum, Parliament building, and Zoological Museum. Park free. Museum €4.10-7, Su 3-8pm free. Zoo €17. Park open daily 10am-dusk. Natural History Museum open Tu-F 10am-7pm, Sa-Su 10am-8pm. Zoo open daily May 16-Sept 15 10am-7pm; Sept 16-Oct 29 10am-6pm; Oct 30-Mar 26 10am-5pm; Mar 27-May 15 10am-6pm.
CHURCH OF SANTA MARIA DEL MAR
CHURCH
C. Canvis Vells, 1
933 10 23 90 933 10 23 90
El Born is dominated by this church’s stoic presence, but it’s nearly impossible to get a good glimpse from the outside. Nearby streets allow remotely satisfactory views of the exterior from the Fossar de les Moreres at the end of Pg. del Born. The Pl. de Santa Maria, located at the west entrance of the church, holds the best outside views of the church’s impressive rose window (which dates to 1459) and the intricate relief and sculptural work of the main entrance. The best view of the stained glass, of course, is from inside on a sunny day. Constructed between 1329 and 1383, this church exemplifies the Catalan Gothic style—tough on the outside, light and airy on the inside. The inside is spacious and open, with tall, slim, octagonal pillars lining the main nave and no constructed boundaries between the nave and the altar. Despite the beautiful architecture, the interior has limited decoration (apart from the stained glass, of course) due to a fire that gutted the church in 1936 during the Spanish Civil War. Be sure to check the secret, miracle-holding treasure room of eternal light in the back—okay, it’s just the chapel, but it goes largely unvisited and grants a close-up of some amazing artistry and friezes of God near the ceiling.
Jaume I. Walk down Carrer del’Argenteria to enter the plaça. Santa Maria del Mar is on the right. Free. Open M-Sa 9am-1:30pm and 5:30-8:30pm, Su 10am-1:30pm and 5:30-8:30pm.
ARC DE TRIOMF
ARCHITECTURE
Between Pg. de Lluís Companys and Pg. de Sant Joan
For a proper greeting from the city of Barcelona, be sure to get off the metro at the Arc de Triomf Station. At first glance, you’ll notice that this is most definitely not Paris’s Arc de Triomphe (this one is actually reachable and not swimming in an ocean of tourists); the slight differences between the two encapsulate why Paris is Paris and Barcelona is awesome. Where else can you find such a relatively unoccupied attraction? People don’t really come to Spain to see this, so it’s pretty much as private as a massive, open historic site can be. Situated at the beginning of a wide, cinematic-like boulevard leading to the Parc de la Ciutadella, the arch not only frames the palm tree- and modernista-building-lined road and its incredible terminus but also literally embraces visitors with a sculptural frieze by Josep Reynés inscribed with the phrase “Barcelona rep les nacions,” or “Barcelona welcomes the nations.” This declaration was made along with the arch’s construction for the 1888 Universal Exhibition, when it served as the main entrance to the fair grounds in the Parc. Today, the arch serves as little more than a historical artifact, but it’s worth a look if you’re in the area. The triumphant bricks-on-bricks of the arch was designed by Josep Jilaseca i Cassanovas in the Moorish revival style. Its exterior is decked out with sculptures of 12 women representing fame and a relief by Josep Lllimona that depicts the award ceremony. Much the opposite of gargoyles atop the structure are several white angel sculptures and eight massive. The whole thing graces the surrounding area with its architectural superiority.
Arc de Triomf. Free.
El Raval
PALAU GÜELL
PALACE
C. Nou de la Rambla, 3-5
934 72 57 75
Commissioned by Eusebi Güell, the wealthy industrialist of Parc Güell fame, Güell Palace has stood tall since its 1888 completion as the master creation of none other than Antoni Gaudí. Being the only project that Gaudí himself directed until its debut, Palau Güell represents one of the artist’s early works. Its roots in the Islamic-Hispanic architectural tradition are visible in the Moorish arched windows that have been elongated and smoothed out with a typical Gaudí twist. Be sure to look up in the Saló Central to see another example of this: tiny holes in the conical ceiling allow in rays of light, reminiscent of a combination of God’s light piercing clouds and a nicely constructed Indian harem. You’ll probably have someone snicker at you as you stare with your mouth agape at the ceiling’s rainbow, typically Gaudían ceramic-tiled chimney, and impressive geometric conglomerations dotting the inside. Check the website before going to check events and exhibits.
Liceu. Walk toward the water on Las Ramblas and take a right onto C. Nou de la Rambla. Rooftop closed when raining. Group reservations need 48hr. advance call €12, reduced €8. Free 1st Su of month. Audio tour included in admission. Open Apr-Oct Tu-Su 10am-8pm; Nov-Mar Tu-Su 10am-5:30pm. Last entry 1hr. before close.
MUSEU D’ART CONTEMPORANI DE BARCELONA (MACBA)
MUSEUM
Pl.Àngels, 1
934 12 08 10
Bursting out of the narrow streets and into its own spacious plaza, American architect Richard Meier’s bright white edifice has sought to bring artistic enlightenment to the masses. The stark, simple interior displays an impressive collection of contemporary art, with particular emphasis on Spanish and Catalan artists, including a world-renowned collection of the interwar avant-garde and a selection of works by Miró and Tàpies. Found very near the CCCB, the Universitat, and a host of other sights around El Raval, MACBA is a must-see attraction for travelers, locals, and students alike. Be sure to check the website, as events, exhibitions, and even small concerts may occur within a week’s notice. The museum completely transforms during Barcelona’s Sónar music festival every year, converting into the Sónar Complex stage.
Universitat. Walk down C. Pelai, take the 1st right, and turn left onto C. Tallers. Take a right onto C. Valldonzella and a left onto C. Montalegre. Admission includes English-language tour. Entrance to all exhibit €9; children under 14, Tarjeta Rosa, over 65, the unemployed, teachers, members of the AAVC, and ICOM members free. Open M-F 11am-7:30pm, Sa 10am-9pm, Su and holidays 10am-7pm. Library open M-Th 10am-7pm. Last entry 30min. before close.
CENTRE DE CULTURA CONTEMPORÀNIA DE BARCELONA (CCCB)
EXHIBITION CENTER
C. Montalegre, 5
933 06 41 00
The Centre de Cultura Contemporània de Barcelona boasts everything from art exhibits of old African sculptures to Shakespearean theater to Roman literature to open-air beer expos—the best potpourri of culture you’ll ever see. Three exhibition galleries host large and involved temporary exhibits that vary in quality and quantity by month. Two lecture halls, an auditorium, and a bookstore fill out the architecturally wonderful (and award winning!) complex comprised of several upright glass and mirror structures. Paired with the thought-provoking collections of the nearby MACBA, the CCCB offers everything to help one become the epitome of a cultured character.
Universitat. Walk down C. Pelai, take the 1st right, and then turn left onto C. Tallers. Turn right onto C. Valldonzella and left onto C. Montalegre. General admission €6; seniors, under 25, large families, group visits, and single-parent households €4; 2 or more exhibitions €8/6. Exhibits open daily 11am-8pm. CCCB Archives open Tu-F 3-8pm, Sa-Su 11am-8pm. Guided tours in Spanish Sa 11:30am. Last entry 30min. before close.
L’ANTIC HOSPITAL DE LA SANTA CREU I SANT PAU
HOSPITAL
C. l’Hospital, 54-56
Now the site of the Institue d’Estudis Catalans, the Escola Massana, and the 1.5 million volume Bibilioteca de Catalunya, l’Antic Hospital de la Santa Creu i Sant Peu (or the Old Hospital of the Holy Cross and St. Paul) is a 15th-century Gothic building located in the middle of El Raval. Although it no longer functions as the neighborhood hospital, the interior courtyard, complete with an orangery and romantic perching spots, will nicely pad your collection of Facebook pictures. The operating theater has a rotating marble dissection table for the non-squeamish, and the archives hold records of the admittance of famous Catalan architect Antoni Gaudí to the hospital before his death in 1926. At that time, the hospital was used to treat the poor, and Gaudí was mistaken for a homeless man and brought to the premises after a tram struck him. Try to stop by the Gothic chapel art museum, La Capella, as well—it hosts multiple monthly exhibitions.
Liceu. Walk down C. l’Hospital. Free Wi-Fi in courtyard. Biblioteca (932 02 07 97 www.bnc.cat). La Capella (932 42 71 71 www.bcn.cat/lacapella). Open M-F 9am-8pm, Sa 9am-2pm. Biblioteca open M-F 9am-8pm, Sa 9am-2pm. La Capella open Tu-Sa noon-2pm and 4-8pm, Su 11am-2pm.
L’Eixample
CASA BATLLÓ
ARCHITECTURE
Pg. de Gràcia, 43
934 88 06 66
Built sometime between 1875 and 1877, the Casa Batlló was originally designed for a middle class family in the luxurious center l’Eixample. Take a peek at yet another of Gaudí’s creations in all its visceral, organo-skeletal design sprinkled with the ever-present hints of Nouveau Art. From the spinal-column stairwell that holds together the scaly building’s interior to the undulating dragon’s back curve of the ceramic rooftop to the skull-like balconies on the facade, the Casa Batlló will have you wondering what kinds of drugs Gaudí was on and where one might go about acquiring them if they lead to such remarkable renovations (it was originally built by Emilio Salas Cortés). Much of the inside is lined with trancadís, or scatters of broken tile that lend to gorgeous color transitions and contrasts. The building has hardly a right angle inside or out; every surface—stone, wood, glass, anything—is soft and molten. This architectural wonderland was once an apartment complex for the fantastically rich and is now the busiest of the three modernista marvels in the Manzana de la Discòrdia on Pg. de Gràcia. A free audio tour lets you navigate the dream-like space at your own pace, so be sure to spend some time with the doors of wood and stained glass, the soft scaled pattern of the softly bowed walls, and the swirly light fixture that pulls at the entire ceiling, rippling into its center. Gaudí’s design ranges from the incredibly rational to the seemingly insane, including a blue light well that passes from deep navy at the top to sky blue below in order to distribute light more evenly. Be sure to visit the rooftop where you can get a great view of Barcelona below.
Passeig de Gràcia. Walk away from Pl. Catalunya on Pg. de Gràcia; Casa Batlló is on the left. Tickets available at box office or through TelEntrada. Admission includes audio tour. €20.35, students and BCN cardholders €16.30. Open daily 9am-9pm. Last entry 40min. before close.
SAGRADA FAMÍLIA
ARCHITECTURE
C. Mallorca, 401
935 13 20 60
If there is one building that stands out in all of Catalonia, it’s la Sagrada Familia. Featured in every panoramic shot of the city, it’s the Eiffel Tower or Statue of Liberty of Barcleona. It was Gaudi’s lifelong project that he died working on (he was tragically struck by a tram and confused for a bum because of how he dressed). Since his death, construction has stopped and resumed for years, and will continue to do so until the projected completion date around 2030. However, the cranes and construction crew have become part of the scene thanks to their mere presence for so long. In recent years, the inside of La Sagrada Familia became open to the public to tour for a fee, and the church holds masses on a weekly basis inside. The view from the inside is as absolutely breathtaking as the view from the outside. The extremely tall ceilings are all adorned with incredibly intricate carvings and statues, and elaborately designed stained glass windows that let in and reflect the sun’s light all throughout the basilica. Two sets of enormous doors on each side permit people to come and leave, and whenever a tourist steps in for the first time, they are temporarily paralyzed in wanderlust (and then they reach for their cameras). On the back end of the basilica is a wall with the Lord’s Prayer written in hundreds of different languages, and on the opposite ends are televisions showing documentaries on the history and construction of the building, which lead to a private prayer area. Near the entrance doors are elevators which allow access to the top of the towers. Tickets for this cost extra, but are absolutely worth it because the towers are incredibly high above the city, and you can get an excellent view of the city, ocean, and horizon in the distance. Additionally, you can look down from the towers and see the rest of the construction from a different angle, as well as the hundreds of people that are touring around below you. Visiting La Sagrada Familia is imperative for any body traveling to Barcelona. If you only have a few hours in the city, almost all of your time should be spent inside the basilica and above on the towers. The rest should be spent getting to and from there.
Sagrada Família. Towers closed during rain. Basilica €13.50, with audio tour €21.50; students €11.50; under 10 free. Elevator €4.50. Combined ticket with Casa-Museu Gaudí (in Parc Güell) €17. Online ticketing strongly recommended. Open Apr-Sept daily 9am-8pm; Oct-Mar 9am-6pm; Dec 25-Jan 6 9am-2pm. Visitors must leave by 30min. past ticket office closing. Last elevator to the tower Nativity Lift 15min. before close. Passion Lift 30min. before close. Guided tours in English May-Jun M-F 11am, noon, and 1pm; Jul-Aug M 5pm; Sept-Oct M-F 11am, noon, and 1pm; Nov-Apr M-F 11am, 1, and 3pm.
CASA MILÀ (LA PEDRERA)
ARCHITECTURE
Pg. de Gràcia, 92 C. Provença, 261-265
902 202 138
http://www.lapedrera.com/en/visitor-information
La Pedrera still functions as a home for the rich, famous, and patient—the waitlist for an apartment is over three decades long—as well as the offices of the Caixa Catalunya bank. Many portions of the building are open to the public, including an apartment decorated with period furniture (contemporary to the house, not designed by Gaudí) and the main floor. The attic, a space known as Espai Gaudí, boasts a mini-museum to the man himself, including helpful exhibits explaining the science behind his beloved caternary arches and what exactly it means for the architect to be “inspired by natural structures.” It is complete with all his jargonistic models and Einsteinian mathematical formulas working behind the scenes to create his living oeuvres. Up top, a rooftop terrace gives light to what many a critic has called the perfect European Kodak moment, whether it be with the desert-like sculptural outcroppings part of the building or of the panorama overlooking Barcelona to the Sagrada Família. During the summer, the terrace lights up with jazz performances on Friday and Saturday nights in a series known as Nits d’Estiu a La Pedrera.
Diagonal. Walk down Pg. de Gràcia away from Avda. Diagonal; La Pedrera is on the right. Purchase tickets to Nits d’Estiu a La Pedrera online via TelEntrada at www.telentrada.com. €16.50, students and seniors €14.85, under 6 free. Audio tour €4. Nits d’Estiu a La Pedrera €30; includes access to Espai Gaudí. 10 language options available for tours. Open daily Mar-Oct 9am-8pm; Nov-Feb 9am-6:30pm. Last entry 30min. before close. Concerts mid-Jun-late-Aug, some F and Sa 8:30pm.
CASA AMATLLER
ARCHITECTURE
Pg. de Gràcia, 41
932 160 175
Finally another whimsical place that can rival some of Pg. de Gracia’s other creations. Casa Amatller stands as the counterpart to Gaudí’s neighboring acid-trip Casa Batlló, and it was the first in the trio of buildings now known as the Manzana de la Discòrdia. In 1898, chocolate industrialist Antoni Amatller became the rich hipster of his time by veering form the Gaudí-dominated expert architectural sweets and instead commissioned Josep Puig i Cadafalch to build his palatial home along Pg. de Gràcia, and out popped a mix of Catalan, Neo-Gothic, Islamic, and even Dutch architectural motifs all expertly overlapping on a strict gridline. A carving of Sant Jordi battling that pesky dragon appears over the front door, accompanied by four divinely artsy figures engaged in painting, sculpting, and architecture. Also at the foot of the principal entrance is a tile on the ground marking 0km of the European Route de Modernisme. The start of this invisible path is Barcelona’s age-old endeavor to spread the moderniste movement throughout Spain as well as the rest of Europe. The building’s entrance is free to see—note the ornate lamps and amazing stained-glass ceiling in the stairwell, created by the same artist that did the ceiling of the Palau de la Música Catalana. The rest of the building is even more spectacular and is well worth the €10 tour.
Passeig de Gràcia. Walk away from Pl. Catalunya on Pg. de Gràcia; Casa Amatller is a couple of blocks up on the left. Reservation by phone or email required for tour. Tours €10. Kid workshops €6 daily 10am-8pm. Guided tours M-F 10, 11am, noon, 1, 3, 4, 5, and 6pm.
HOSPITAL DE LA SANTA CREU I SANT PAU
ARCHITECTURE
C. Sant Antoni Maria Claret, 167
933 177 652; guided visits 902 076 621
Considered one of the most important pieces of modernista public architecture, this hospital’s practice challenges the meaning of “neouveau.” Dating back to 1401 when six smaller hospitals merged, the Hospital de la Santa Creu i Sant Pau is the newer embodiment of the medical practice formerly housed in the Antic Hospital de la Santa Creu in El Raval. Wealthy benefactor Pau Gil bequested funds for the building with strict instructions, including the name appendage. Construction then began in 1902 under the direction of Lluís Domènech i Montaner (designer of the godly Palau de Musica Catalana in El Born), who in Gaudían fashion, died before its completion. His son saw the work to fruition, giving the hospital 48 large pavilions connected by underground tunnels and bedazzled with luxurious modern sculptures and paintings. Although the hospital ceased to function as a hospital in 2009, it has been named a UNESCO World Heritage Sight and ironically now welcomes even more visitors than it did as a hospital. Much of the complex is currently closed for renovation, but the little bits open around back are neat spots for a few selfies and snapchats (or 15).
8, over 65, and unemployed €5. Modernisme Route 50% discount. Bus Turístic 20% discount. Barcelona City Tour 20% discount. Tours in English M-Su 10, 11am, noon, and 1pm. Tours in French M-Su 10:30am. Tours in Spanish M-Su 11:30am. Tours in Catalan M-Su 12:30pm. Follow the information boards for updated information.
FUNDACIÓ ANTONI TÀPIES
ART, ARCHITECTURE
C. Aragó, 255
934 87 03 15
Housed in a building by modernista architect Lluís Domènech i Montaner, the Fundació Antoni Tàpies is unmissable thanks to the giant mess ball of wire and steel atop the low brick roofline. Made by the museum’s namesake, Antoni Tàpies, it’s actually a sculpture entitled Núvol i Cadira (Cloud and Chair; 1990) that supposedly shows a chair jutting out of a large cloud. Once inside, the lowest and highest levels are dedicated to temporary exhibitions on modern and contemporary artists and themes—recent shows have included work by Eva Hesse and Steve McQueen—while the middle floors hold Tàpies’ own work. Start upstairs and work your way down, watching the descent from surrealist-symbolist beauty into a misshapen chaos of not so well-seeming forms.
Passeig de Gràcia. Walk uphill on Pg. de Gràcia and turn left onto C. Aragó. €7; reduced entrance €5.60. Articket free. Open Tu-Su 10am-7pm. Closed Dec 25, Jan 1, and Jan 6. Last entry 15min. before closing. Museum shop open Tu-F 10am-7pm, Sa-Su 10am-2:30pm and 3:30-7pm. Library open Tu-F 10am-2pm and 4-7pm. Admission to library by appointment.
FUNDACIÓ FRANCISCO GODIA
ART
C. Diputació, 250
932 72 31 80
The next time you start making NASCAR the butt of a redneck joke, consider the Fundació Francisco Godia. Though Godia was a successful businessman by trade, his two true loves are the focus of this museum: art collecting and Formula One racing. The museum reflects these disparate interests—a front room filled with racing trophies and riding goggles amongst other racing paraphernalia. A man of exquisite taste and great artistic sensitivity, Francisco Godia gathered together an exceptional collection of paintings, medieval sculptures, and ceramics. Some of his favorite works are on display at the Francisco Godia Foundation, including many of his favorite 20th-century artifacts. Due to Godia’s broad collecting interests, the permanent collection features everything from stunning 12th- and 13th-century wooden sculptures to medieval paintings to modern works by Santiago Rusiñol, Joaquím Mir, and Gutiérrez Solana. In fact, the foundation continues to acquire contemporary pieces, and temporary exhibits attempt to fit somewhere into the framework of the diverse collection.
Passeig de Gràcia. Walk away from Pl. Catalunya on Pg. de Gràcia and take the 1st left onto C. Diputació. Guided tours in Spanish and Catalan free Sa-Su at noon. €6.50, students €3.50. Temporary exhibits €5-10. Open M-Sa 10am-8pm, Su 10am-3pm.
Gràcia
Some of the most defining features of Gràcia’s cityscape are the cafe-lined plaças that seem to appear out of nowhere around every corner. The Plaça de la Vila de Gràcia (also known as Plaça de Rius i Taulet) is one of the largest and most beautiful, with a massive 19th-century clock tower (Fontana; take a left down C. Gran de Gràcia, then a left onto C. Sant Domènec). With your back to the powder-blue municipal building, head up the street running along the right side of the plaza, and in a few blocks you’ll get to the Plaça del Sol, the neighborhood’s most lively square, especially at night. Two blocks east of that (follow C. Ramon i Cajal) is the Plaça de la Revolució de Setembre de 1868, a long, open square with the word “Revolució” engraved in the pavement. Head up C. Verdifrom Pl. Revolució de Setembre 1868 and take a left at the third intersection, which will bring you to the shady Plaça del Diamant, while a right will bring you to the true gem that is the Plaça de la Virreina.
PARC GÜELL
PARK, ARCHITECTURE
Main entrance on C. Clot
Park Guell is a garden, park, and housing complex that‘s located on the hill of El Carmel in the Gracia district. It was designed by Gaudi in the early 1900s as summer homes for really wealthy families in Barcelona, and now it’s open for tourism as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The tour used to be completely free, until recent years when the city added an €8 fee for entrance. The park outside the architectural site is still free, however. Getting to the park requires a long walk uphill, and you can get within 20 minutes of the site by taking the metro. The garden features several important Gaudi creations.
The first thing you‘ll see is the main terrace, which overlooks the park and has mosaic work along the benches along the perimeter. This offers the most complete view of Barcelona and the bay, where you can see other famous buildings like Sagrada Familia. You can walk down underneath it and see the unique dome shaped roofing. This eventually leads to the multicolored mosaic salamander known as “el drac” at the main enterence. You can take pictures with the salamander, but there’s always a security guard watching it after it was vandalized in February 2007. After, you can continue down the stairs until the Gaudi House Museum, which shows several original works. Nearby is a restaurant and gift shop that are next to the street exit. Tickets are only for certain times, and make sure you arrive early because you’re only supposed to stay in the park for a limited amount of time.
Lesseps. Walk uphill on Travessera Dalt and take a left to ride escalators. Or Vallcarca. Walk down Avda. República Argentina and take a right onto C. Agramunt, which becomes the partially be-escalatored Baixada Glòria. Bus #24 from Pl. Catalunya stops just downhill from the park. Free. Guardhouse €2, students €1.50. Free Su after 3pm and 1st Su of each month. Casa-Museu Gaudí €5.50, students €4.50. Park open daily May-Aug 10am-9pm; Sept 10am-8pm; Oct 10am-7pm; Nov-Feb 10am-6pm; Mar 10am-7pm; Apr 10am-8pm. Guardhouse open daily Apr-Oct 10am-8pm; Nov-Mar 10am-4pm. Casa-Museu Gaudí open daily Apr-Sept 10am-8pm; Oct-Mar 10am-6pm.
Montjuïc and Poble Sec
FUNDACIÓ MIRÓ
MUSEUM
Parc de Montjuïc
934 43 94 70
It’s time to visit Fundació Miró. From the outside in, the museum serves as both a shrine to and a celebration of the life and work of Joan Miró, one of Catalonia and Spain’s most beloved contemporary artists. The bright white angles and curves of the Lego-esque building were designed by Josep Lluís Sert, a close friend of Joan Miró. Since it first opened, the museum has expanded beyond Miró’s original collection to include pieces inspired by the artist. A collection of over 14,000 works now fills the open galleries, which have views of the grassy exterior and adjacent Sculpture Park. The collection includes whimsical sculptures, epic paintings, and gargantuan sobreteixims (paintings on tapestry) by Miró, as well as works by Calder, Duchamp, Oldenburg, and Léger. Have fun gazing at Calder’s politically charged mercury fountain, which was exhibited alongside Picasso’s Guernica at the 1937 World’s Fair in Paris. Like much of Barcelona, the foundation refuses to be stuck in its past—although an impressive relic of a previous era, Fundació Miró continues to support contemporary art. Temporary exhibitions have recently featured names such as Olafur Eliasson, Pipllotti Rist, and Kiki Smith, while the more experimental Espai 13 houses exhibits by emerging artists selected by freelance curators. Overwhelmed? You should be. This is one of the few times we recommend paying for the audio tour (€4).
Paral·lel. From the metro, take the funicular to the museum. €11, students €6, under 14 free. Temporary exhibits €4, students €3. Espai 13 €2.50. Sculpture garden free. Open Jul-Sept Tu-W 10am-8pm, Th 10am-9:30pm, F-Sa 10am-8pm, Su 10am-2:30pm; Oct-Jun Tu-W 10am-7pm, Th 10am-9:30pm, F-Sa 10am-7pm, Su 10am-2:30pm. Last entry 30min. before close.
MUSEU NACIONAL D’ART DE CATALUNYA (MNAC)
MUSEUM
Palau Nacional, Parc de Montjuïc
936 22 03 76
This majestic building perched atop Montjuïc isn’t quite as royal as it first appears. Designed by Enric Catà and Pedro Cendoya for the 1929 International Exhibition, the Palau Nacional has housed the Museu Nacional d’art de Catalunya (MNAC) since 1934. The sculpture-framed view over Barcelona from outside the museum can’t be beat, and more treasures await on the inside.
Upon entrance, you’ll be dumped into the gargantuan, colonnaded Oval Hall, which, though empty, gets your jaw appropriately loose to prepare for its drop in the galleries. The wing to the right houses a collection of Catalan Gothic art, complete with paintings on wood panels and sculptures that Pier 1 would kill to replicate. To the left in the main hall is the museum’s impressive collection of Catalan Romanesque art and frescoes, removed from their original settings in the 1920s and installed in the museum—a move that was probably for the best, considering the number of churches devastated in the civil war just a decade later. More modern attractions grace the upstairs, with modern art to the left and drawings, prints, and posters to the far right.
For those intoxicated by the quirky architecture of the city, Catalan modernisme and noucentisme works dot the galleries, from Gaudí-designed furniture to Picasso’s Cubist Woman in Fur Hat and Collar. The collection, which spans the 19th and early 20th century, includes an impressive selection from the under-appreciated Joaquim Mir and a couple of large, fascinating works by the more renowned José Gutiérrez Solana. If art isn’t your thing, check out the currency collection—though beauty may be in the eye of the beholder, this 140,000-piece brief in the history of Catalan coins will have hardly any detractors.
Espanya. Walk through the towers and ride the escalators to the top; the museum is the palace-like structure. Permanent exhibit €12, students €6, under 16 and over 65 free. Annual subscription (permanent and temporary exhibits) €18. Combined ticket with Poble Espanyol €15. Articket €30. Audio tour €3.10. 1st Su of each month free. Open Tu-Sa 10am-7pm, Su 10am-2:30pm. Last entry 30min. before close.
POBLE ESPANYOL
ARCHITECTURE
Av. Francesc Ferrer i Guàrdia, 13
935 08 63 00
One of the few original relics from the 1929 International Exhibition that still dots the mountain, the Poble Espanyol originally aimed to present a unified Spanish village. Inspired by modernista celebrity Josep Puig i Cadafalch, the four architects and artists in charge of its design visited over 1600 villages and towns throughout the country to find models to copy in constructing the village’s 117 full-scale buildings, streets, and squares. Though intended simply as a temporary arts pavilion, the outdoor architectural museum was so popular that it was kept open as a shrine (or challenge) to the ideal of a united Spain that never was. It’s perfect for those traveling only to Barcelona who want to get some idea of what the rest of the country looks like—the “Barri Andaluz” feels like a Sevilla street, with whitewashed walls and arches. Nowadays, artists’ workshops peddle goods along the winding roads, spectacles take place during the day, and parties rage at night.
Espanya. Walk through the towers, ride the escalators, and take a right €11, students €7.40, at night €6.50 (valid after 8pm); combined visit with National Art Museum of Catalonia €18. Audio tour €3. Open M 9am-8pm, Tu-Th 9am-midnight, F 9am-3am, Sa 9am-4am, Su 9am-midnight. Last entry 1hr. before close. Workshops and shops open daily in summer 10am-8pm; in fall 10am-7pm; in winter 10am-6pm; in spring 10am-7pm.
BARCELONA PAVILION
ARCHITECTURE
Av. Francesc Ferrer i Guàrdia, 7
934 23 40 16
Though the original Barcelona Pavilion was dismantled when the International Exhibition ended in 1930, this faithful 1986 reconstruction recreates the original feel perfectly. Ludwig Mies van der Rohe’s iconic 1929 structure of glass, steel, and marble reminds us that “less is more.” The open interior is populated solely by the famous Barcelona chair and a reflecting pool with a bronze reproduction of Georg Kolbe’s Alba. This pavilion—simple, tranquil, sleek—changed modern architecture, modern design, and the way we look at both, whether we realize it or not.
Espanya. Walk through the towers and take the escalators up Montjuïc. Barcelona Pavilion is on the 1st landing to the right; follow the signs. €5, students €2.60, under 16 free. Free 30min. guide service Sa 10am, English 11am, Spanish noon. Catalan Bus Turístic, Barcelona Card, Barcelona City Tour reduction 20%. Cash only at front entrance. Open daily 10am-8pm.
CASTLE OF MONTJUÏC
CASTLE
Carretera Montjuïc, 66
932 56 44 45
Built in 1640 during the revolt against Philip IV, this former fort and castle has been involved in its fair share of both Catalan and Spanish struggles. The fortress first saw action in 1641 against Castilian forces and continued its function as a military post until 1960, when it was ceded to the city and refurbished as a military museum by Franco (incidentally, this is the only place in Catalunya where one can find a statue of the narcissist). Despite being handed to the city, the fort was controlled by the army until 2007, when its direction was finally handed to the Barcelona City Council. The inside walkways offer mazes, incredible views of the harbor and city, as well as a moat-turned-beautifully-manicured-garden for those that make the hike (or shell out for the rather expensive, €11 cable car ride to the top). Once there, try to mount those massive steel juggernauts!
Espanya. Montjuïc telefèric on Avda. Miramar. Free. Open daily Apr 1-Sept 30 9am-9pm; Oct 1-Mar 31 9am-7pm.
FOOD
Given the cosmopolitan character of Barcelona, you can find just about any food you crave in this city. The cheapest options are chain supermarkets (Dia, Caprabo, and Spar, to name a few) and local groceries that tend to run a few cents cheaper still; in terms of prepared food, kebab restaurants are some of the cheapest and most plentiful. Local Catalan cuisine is varied and includes food from land and sea: some of the most traditional dishes are botifarra amb mongetes (Catalan pork sausage with beans), esqueixada (cod with tomato and onion), llonganissa (a kind of salami), and coques (somewhere between a pizza and an open-faced sandwich; singular coca). The simplest and most prevalent dish is pa amb tomàquet (bread smeared with tomato, garlic, olive oil, salt, and pepper). Note also that the Catalan for “salad” is amanida; this bears no relation to the word in English or Spanish, which confuses some travelers poring over a menu in search of ensalada.
LA BOQUERIA (MERCAT DE SANT JOSEP)
MARKET
Las Ramblas, 89
If you’re looking for ruby red tomatoes, leeks the size of a well-fed child’s arm, or maybe just some nuts and a zumo smoothie, the Boqueria has you covered in the most beautiful way—quite literally. Just look for the stained-glass archway facing Las Ramblas that marks the entrance of this expansive tented open market. Though each neighborhood in Barcelona has its own mercat, the Mercat de Sant Josep is not only the biggest and most impressive in the city, it’s the largest market in all of Spain. If filling your stomach from the glowing rows of perfectly arranged, perfectly ripened produce doesn’t satisfy your gut, restaurants surrounding the market and dotting La Rambla offer meals made from produce directly from the nearby vendors.
Liceu. Walk on Las Ramblas toward Pl. de Catalunya and take a left onto Pl. de Sant Josep. Open M-Sa 8am-8pm, though certain vendors stay open later.
ATTIC
RESTAURANT $$$$
Las Ramblas, 120
933 02 48 66
After a long day along Las Ramblas, Attic provides a soothing world away from the performers, pickpockets, and fanny-packing crowds. Attic has no dress code, but you should really consider changing out of that pit-stained T-shirt and cargo shorts. With over 10 menus of varied price tags to choose from, Attic provides its customers with everything from €29.95 Ocells and Flors menus to the hefty €65 Festa menu. Perch yourself on the rooftop terrace floor overlooking Las Ramblas at dinner for a truly memorable experience.
Liceu. On Las Ramblas, toward Pl. Catalonia. Appetizer €4.50-12. Meat entrees €8-14. Fish €10-13. Open M-Th 1-4:30pm and 7-11:30pm, F-Sa 1-4:30pm and 7pm-12:30am, Su 1-4:30pm and 7-11:30pm.
ESCRIBÀ
DESSERT $
Las Ramblas, 83
933 01 60 27
Grab a coffee and feast your eyes on any of the colorful and sugary oeuvres patiently awaiting passage to some lucky customer’s mouth. With beckoning tarts, croissants, cakes, and rings made of caramel, Escribà tempts even the most devout sugar-avoiders from all four corners of its beautiful modernista-style store. If you’re not in the mood for sweets or a mug of their killer raspberry hot chocolate, try a savory dish, such as the croissant with blue cheese, caramelized apple, and walnuts (€4.50) or the “bikini” bread mold with ham and brie (€4).
Liceu. Walk toward Pl. Catalonia. Escribà is on the left. Sandwiches €3.50. Menú €5.90. Sweets €3-5. Open M-Th 1-4pm and 8-11pm, F-Su 1-5pm and 8-11:30pm.
L’ANTIC BOCOI DEL GÒTIC
CATALAN $$$
Baixada de Viladecols, 3
933 10 50 67
Enter the lair of L’Antic Bocoi del Gòtic, where walls of stone and exposed brick surround patrons with cave-like intimacy. The restaurant specializes in Catalan cuisine, with fresh, seasonal ingredients, and prides itself on bringing new ideas to traditional food. The amicable staff recommends the selection of cheeses and their own take on the coques de recapte, a regional dish made of a thin dough with fresh produce and thickly layered meats (€8.50-9).
Jaume I. Follow C. Jaume I toward Pl. Sant Jaume, then turn left onto C. Dagueria, which becomes C. dels Lledó, then Baixada de Viladecols. Reservations recommended. Appetizers €7-10. Entrees €10-21. Open M-Sa 7:30pm-midnight.
SANDWICHES, CAFE $
Las Ramblas, 115
933 17 14 92
This cafe has earned much renown for a fulsome 2006 New York Times article whose author raved for several paragraphs about Viena’s flauta ibèric (Iberian ham sandwich; €6.60), calling it “the best sandwich I’ve ever had.” The sandwich’s secret, which the article’s author almost figured out but couldn’t quite discern, is that the flauta comes on pa amb tomàquet, the staple of the Catalan kitchen that involves smearing tomato on bread before seasoning it with salt, pepper, olive oil, and garlic. And it is a damn good sandwich, the sort that melts in your mouth with each bite. Munch away while the piano echoes its tunes from the veranda at this grandiose establishment.
Catalunya. Follow Las Ramblas toward the sea. Sandwiches €2.40-9.30 (most under €4). Coffee €1.30-2.40. Open M-Th 8am-11:30pm, F-Sa 8am-12:30am, Su 8am-11:30pm.
LA CLANDESTINA
TEA $
Baixada de Viladecols, 2bis
933 19 05 33
This is a hidden—dare we say, clandestine?—tea house with the most relaxed atmosphere in all the Barri Gòtic. With an interior of clutter and many-colored walls, this establishment will envelop you in its thick air, fragrant with freshly brewed tea and hookah. The cavernous teteria makes for a great place to take a short (or long, if you’re feeling real Spanish) reprieve from the frenetic pace of the Gothic Quarter. Everyone from the neighborhood book club to young’uns in their 20s will meet you here.
Jaume I. Follow C. Jaume I toward Pl. Sant Jaume, then turn left onto C. Dagueria, which becomes C. dels Lledó, then Baixada de Viladecols. Free Wi-Fi. Sandwiches €4.20-4.40. Tea €2.50-6; pots €10-15. Juices €2.80-3.60. Cash only. Open M-Th 9am-10pm, F 9am-midnight, Sa 10am-midnight, Su 11am-10pm.
VEGETALIA
ORGANIC, VEGETARIAN $$
C. dels Escudellers, 54
933 17 33 31
Vegetalia delivers delicious, organic, natural, and environmentally conscious food at reasonable prices. Relax at the bar and chat with the easygoing staff about the ironic history of the Pl. de George Orwell or experience the square for yourself after ordering at the walk-up window. Try the popular bowl of nachos (€5.50) and wash it down a glass of fresh-squeezed lemonade or a soy drink (€2.20).
Liceu. Walk down Las Ramblas toward the sea and take a left onto C. dels Escudellers. Organic store in the rear. Free Wi-Fi. Appetizer €5.50-12. Entrees €4-8.80. Desserts €2.50-4.50. Open daily 11am-11:30pm.
El Born
EL XAMPANYET
TAPAS $$
C. de Montcada, 22
933 19 70 03
Since its founding in 1929, El Xampanyet is as authentic as it gets, with sheepskin wine bags, an overwhelming selection of cava, and old locals spilling out the door and onto the street. Four generations of family ownership has lead to the museum of casks, blackened bottles, and kitschy bottle openers displayed against hand-painted ceramic tiles and topped by large, century-old barrels filled with vintage beer. We recommend that you try the cask-fresh cerveza (€3.50) or the house wine xampanyet (€2), and pad your stomach with some of the delicious tapas.
Jaume I. Walk down C. de la Princesa and take a right onto C. de Montcada, toward the Museu Picasso. Xampanyet is on the right before the Placeta Montcada. Tapa €1-13. Beer €3.50. Wine and cava from €2. Open daily noon-3:30pm and 7-11pm.
RESTAURANT $$
C. dels Sombrerers, 13
933 19 99 99
With dark wood, stained glass, Art Nouveau prints, menus pasted onto wine bottles, and chandeliers made of silverware, Petra’s eccentric decor will have you expecting any meal to give your wallet liposuction. Luckily, the lively bohemian feel is matched by bohemian prices. Pasta dishes like the rich gnocchi with mushrooms and hazelnut oil (€5.20) and entrees such as the duck with lentils (€7.90) are easy on the wallet, as is the midday menú of a main course (varies daily), salad, and wine for €6.60—a true steal and a local favorite.
Jaume I. Walk down C. de la Princesa and take a right onto C. del Pou de la Cadena. Take an immediate left onto C. de la Barra de Ferro and a right onto C. dels Banys Vells. Petra is located where C. dels Banys Vells ends at C. dels Sombrerers. Menú €6.50. Appetizers €5-7. Entrees €8. Open Tu-Sa 1:30-4pm and 9-11:30pm, Su 1:30pm-4pm.
LA BÁSCULA
CAFE, VEGETARIAN $$
C. dels Flassaders, 30
933 19 98 66
This working cooperative serves vegetarian sandwiches, empanadas, salads, and more—the menu changes daily. Doors laid flat serve as communal tables, and a mixture of art, environmentally-friendly sodas, and protest flyers set this restaurant apart. Though robed in the same antique exterior (complete with a large, warehouse-like entrance) as more expensive places, Báscula provides a more reasonably priced alternative to the upscale eateries. Hours and seating availability may change as the restaurant fights for its right to serve in-house, but takeout is available no matter the outcome. Try the daily special (€8-10) or one of their recommended plates, like the vegetable curry couscous with coconut milk (€8.50).
Jaume I. Walk down Carrer de la Princesa and take a right onto Carrer dels Flassaders. Entrees and salad €7-9. Sandwiches and soups €4-5. Piadinas €6. Cash only. Open W-Sa 1pm-11pm, Su 1-8pm.
LA PARADETA
SEAFOOD $$$
C. Comercial, 7
932 68 19 39
For the highest quality seafood, this hybrid fish market/restaurant is where Barcelona goes. The line often stretches down the ever-under-construction Carrer Comercial, but it’s worth the wait to pick out a fresh fish to be cooked to your liking. When they call your number, head up and grab your meal, then sit back down and dig in. The authentic seaworthy feel of this establishment is worth of an ahoy or two, so drop by if you’re feeling fresh (fish, that is).
Jaume I. Follow Carrer Princesa all the way to Carrer del Comerç, then turn right, then left at Carrer Fusina (just before the market). Turn right onto Carrer Comercial. Market prices fluctuate. Open Tu-Su 1pm-4pm and 8pm-11:30pm.
El Raval
CAN LLUÍS
CATALAN $$$
C. Cera, 49
934 41 11 87
Can Lluís? Yes he can! This crowded restaurant has been an El Raval staple since its founding in the 1920s, when this neighborhood was Barcelona’s Chinatown. Don’t be intimidated by the fact that everyone already knows each other or that you’ll almost certainly be spoken to in traditional Catalan. Just remember: “Què vols?” (“What do you want?”) is your cue to order. Respond with an order of tiny faba beans with cuttlefish (definitely worth the €13.90) for an appetizer and the Monkfish Rounds with Spanish ham (€18.90) for your main dish.
Sant Antoni. Follow Ronda Sant Antoni toward Mercat de Sant Antoni, bear left onto Ronda Sant Pau, and then head left onto C. Cera. Appetizers €7.40-16. Entrees €7.90-27. Desserts €3.20-5.50. Open M-Sa 1:30-4pm and 8:30-11:30pm.
