932 37 95 94BAR, BREWERY
C. Sant Agustí, 14
932 37 95 94
We must admit, it’s pretty neat to drink in the only pub in Barcelona that brews its own beer on site. With a huge variety of brews—dark, amber, honey, spiced, chocolate, peppermint, fruit-flavored, and more—there’s literally something for any beer-lover. Kick back with friends as F.C. takes on the world from any of the flat screen TVs in this never-too-crowded spot.
Diagonal. Head uphill on Pg. de Gràcia and take a right onto C. Corsega, at the roundabout where Pg. de Gràcia meets Avda. Diagonal. C. Sant Agustí is the 3rd left. Beers €3.15-4.95. 
Open M-Th 5pm-2am, F 5pm-3am, Sa 6pm-3am, Su 5pm-2am.
OTTO ZUTZ
CLUB
C. Lincoln, 15
932 38 07 22
Like a multilayered rum cake, this place has three levels of boogie throughout its interior. The levels host DJs of varying musical genres, blasted for all of C. Lincoln to feel until dawn. As you might expect, a crowd of young people jostles around this club at all hours of the night, and as a result, it tends to get pretty hot during the summer months.
Fontana. Walk along Rambla de Prat and take a left as it dead ends into Via Augusta. Take the 1st right onto C. Laforja and the 1st right again onto C. Lincoln. Cover €10-15; includes 1 drink. Beer €6. Mixed drinks €6-12. Open M midnight-6am, W-Sa midnight-6am.
THE SUTTON CLUB
CLUB
C. Tuset, 13
934 14 42 17
Don’t even think about showing up in your black gym shorts, Converse sneakers, or light-wash jeans—wear as fine of threads as a traveler can manage. Make your z’s sound extra Catalonian when talking to the bouncers, and don’t make any sudden movements at the door. Once you’re in, though, all bets are off: four bars provide mass quantities of alcohol to a dance floor that gets sloppier as the night goes on. Check online for concerts or special events.
Diagonal. Turn left onto Avda. Diagonal, walk about 4 blocks, and turn right onto C. Tuset. Cover €12-18; includes 1 drink. Beer €7. Mixed drinks €10-15. Open M-Th 11:30pm-5am.
KGB
CLUB
C. ca l’Alegre de Dalt, 55
932 10 59 06
In Soviet Russia, the club hits you! But seriously folks, you’ll be stunned by the varying music genres here, ranging from dubsteb and reggae all the way to top 40. It’s small, but the overcrowding is what makes this place awesome. Entrance is free with a flyer; otherwise you’ll have to pay €10-15 to join this Party.
Joanic. Walk along C. Pi i Maragall and take the 1st left. Cover with 1 drink €10-12, with 2 drinks until 3am €12-16, free with flyer. Beer €4. Mixed drinks €7-10. Cash only. Check online for concert listings. Open Th 1am-5am, F-Sa 1am-6am.
CAFÉ DEL SOL
CAFE, BAR
Pl. Sol, 16
932 37 14 48
One of the many tapas bars lining the Pl. del Sol, the Cafe del Sol offers cheap and delicious eats. Tune into the English pop rock sheltered by some subtle, dimmed lighting that makes for a fun soiree. Try the house recommended pumpkin ravioli and funghi sauce or the runny eggs with straw potatoes (€4.50).
Fontana. Walk downhill on C. Gran de Gràcia, turn left onto C. Ros de Olano, and right onto C. Virtut. Beer €2.80. Mixed drinks €6-7. Tapas €3.50-8.50. Entrees €4-8. Open daily 11pm-3am.
Montjuïc and Poble Sec
BARCELONA ROUGE CAFÉ
BAR
C. Poeta Cabanyes, 21
934 42 49 85
Just imagine walking into the newest chamber of the Playboy Mansion in all its lusty red glow. Throw in neat albums for sale and a kicking Moscow Mule (vodka, pickle, ginger, lime, and ginger ale), and you have Rouge. With a nice arrangement of leather chairs and a parade of vintage decor (like a shoddy copy of Jan van Eyck’s The Arnolfini Wedding), this bar creates a sexy environment where a crowd of hip and friendly customers will party with you. If nothing else, you must try the signature Barcelona Rouge, comprised of vodka, berry liquor, lime juice, and shaved ice (€6.50).
Paral·lel. With Montjuïc to your left, walk along Avda. Paral·lel. Take a left onto C. Poeta Cabanyes. Rouge Café is on the left, before Mambo Tango Youth Hostel. Free Wi-Fi. Beer €1.50-3. Cocktails €5-7. Open Th-Sa 9pm-3am.
MAUMAU
BAR
C. Fontrodona, 35
934 41 80 15
The epicenter of Barcelona’s underground, Mau Mau is best known for its online guide to art, film, and other hip happenings around the city (quick tip for the pro partier), but this is very much worth the hike up C. Fontrodona. The mega loft graciously doles out upwards of 20 gins and dozens and dozens of mixed drinks with all sorts of funky names, from Dark and Stormy (€8) to the proletarian Moscow Mule (€8). At a place where only the suavest go to socialize in a cool, open space, there isn’t even a cover charge to keep you out.
Paral·lel. Facing Montjuïc, walk right along Av. Paral·lel and take a left onto C. Fontrodona. Follow the street as it zig-zags; Mau Mau is just a few blocks down. 1-year membership (includes discounts at Mau Mau and at various clubs, bars, and cultural destinations around the city) €12. No cover for visitors. Beer €2-3. Mixed drinks from €6-11. Cocktails €6-8. Open Th-Sa and festivals 9pm-3am. Other days of the week for special events (see website for details).
LA TERRRAZZA
CLUB
Avda. Marquès de Comillas, 13
687 96 98 25
One of the most popular clubs in Barcelona, La Terrrazza lights up the Poble Espanyol after the artisans and sunburned tourists call it a day. The open-air dance floor floods with many colored lights and humans as soon as the sun goes down. Try any of the mixed drinks (€8-12), all made quicker than you can twerk.
Espanya. Head through the Venetian towers and ride the escalators. Follow the signs to Poble Espanyol. Free bus from Pl. Catalunya to club every 20min. 12:20am-3:20am; free bus from Terrrazza to Pl. Catalunya nonstop 5:30am-6:45am. Cover €18, with flyer €15; includes 1 drink. Beer €5-10. Open F-Sa 12:30am-6am.
TINTA ROJA
BAR
C. Creu dels Molers, 17
934 43 32 43
Resulting from an inventive and artsy couple who have perfected a mix of eccentric and authentic, this establishment was been named after the 1941 tango, “Tinta Roja.” Out front, you can sample any of their fine alcoholic beverages that use Argentinian legui as the main mixing agent. Inside the buzzing grotto, you can observe many of the head manager’s impressive artistic. Ten paces away is where his wife gives dance lessons on Wednesdays at 8:30pm. See how well you can bust out some Spanish groove while a tad under the influence.
Poble Sec. With Montjuïc to the right, walk along Avda. Paral·lel. Take a right onto C. Creu dels Molers; Tinta Roja is on the left. Tango classes W 8:30-10pm, dance from 10pm-1am. Wine €2.70-3.90. Beer €2.50-5.50. Argentine liqueurs €6.60-7.50. Mixed drinks €7.50. Open W 8:30am-midnight, Th 8:30pm-2am, F-Sa8:30pm-3am. Hours may change to accommodate special events; check online.
Tibidabo
Tibidabo—the mountain that rises behind Barcelona—is easily reached by a combination of FGC and tram during the day, but a seriously long uphill hike once trams stop running at 10pm. A cab from Pl. Lesseps to Pl. Doctor Andreu is about €8; from Pl. Catalunya, it’s about €13. Once you figure out a safe way to get home, head here for a night of incredible views that seem to twinkle more with every drink.
MIRABLAU
BAR, CLUB
Pl. Doctor Andreu, S/N
934 18 56 67
With easily the best view in Tibidabo—and arguably the best in Barcelona—Mirablau is a favorite with posh internationals and the younger crowd, so dress well. It also happens to be near the mountain’s peak, so we only recommend walking up here if you prefer to sip your cocktails while drenched in sweat. The glimmering lights of the metropolis and the bar’s quivering candles create a dreamlike aura that earns Mirablau a Let’s Go thumbpick. If the club is more your style, head downstairs where pretty young things spill out onto the terrace to catch their breath from the crowded dance floor.
L7 to FGC: Avinguda de Tibidabo. Take the Tramvia Blau up Avda. Tibidabo to Pl. Doctor Andreu. Th-Sa credit card min €4.70. Drinks discounted M-Sa before 11pm, Su before 6pm. Beer and wine €1.80-6. Cocktails €7-9.50. 11am-5:30am. Open M-Th 11am-4:30am, F-Sa 11am-5:30am
MERBEYÉ
BAR
Pl. Doctor Andreu, 2
934 17 92 79
Merbeyé provides a dim, romantic atmosphere on an outdoor terrace along the cliff. With the lights in the lounge so low that seeing your companion may be a problem, Merbeyé is the perfect place to bring an unattractive date. Smooth jazz serenades throughout, and with just one Merbeyé cocktail (cava, cherry brandy, and Cointreau (€9-10), you’ll be buzzed real quick.
L7 to FGC: Avinguda de Tibidabo. Takethe Tramvía Blau up Avda. Tibidabo to Pl. Doctor Andreu. Beer €2.50-4. Cocktails €9-10. Food €2-7.60. 11am-2am. Open Th 5pm-2am, F-Sa 11am-3am.
ARTS AND CULTURE
Music and Dance
For comprehensive guides to large events and information on cultural activities, contact the Guía del Ocio (www.guiadelociobcn.com) or the Institut de Cultura de Barcelona (ICUB). (Palau de la Virreina, La Rambla, 99933 16 10 00 www.bcn.cat/cultura. Open daily 10am-8pm.) Should you be super wary and wish to make good use of Spain’s awful Wi-Fi services (and test your Catalan skills), check out www.butxaca.com, a comprehensive bimonthly calendar with film, music, theater, and art listings, or www.maumaunderground.com, which lists local music news, reviews, and events. The website www.infoconcerts.cat/ca (available in English) provides even more concert listings. For tickets, check out ServiCaixa (902 33 22 11 www.servicaixa.com. Located at any branch of the Caixa Catalonia bank. Open M-F 8am-2:30pm), TelEntrada (902 10 12 12 www.telentrada.com), or Ticketmaster (www.ticketmaster.es).
Although a music destination year-round, Barcelona especially perks up during the summer with an influx of touring bands and music festivals. The biggest and baddest of these is the three-day electronic music festival Sónar (www.sonar.es), which takes place in mid-June. Sónar attracts internationally renowned DJs, electronica fans, and partiers from all over the world. From mid-June to the end of July, the Grec summer festival (http://grec.bcn.cat) hosts international music, theater, and dance at multiple venues throughout the city, while the indie-centric Primavera Sound (www.primaverasound.com) at the end of May is also a regional must-see. Mondo Sonoro (www.mondosonoro.com) has more information and lists musical happenings across the Spanish-speaking world.
RAZZMATAZZ
POBLE NOU
C. Pamplona, 88 and Almogàvers, 122
933 20 82 00
This massive labyrinth of a converted warehouse hosts popular acts, from reggae to electropop and indie to metal. The massive nightclub complex spans multiple stories in two buildings connected by industrial stairwells and a rooftop walkway. The big room thumps with remixes of current and past top 40 hits, while the smaller rooms upstairs provide more intimate dance spaces. The open-air top floor could be mistaken for a low flying cloud due to the all the smokers bro-ing out here. If there isn’t a concert going on, you can still find a young crowd doing the twist (read: grindage) to a DJ onstage.
Bogatell. Walk down C. Pere IV away from the plaza and take the 1st slight left onto C. Pamplona. Razzmatazz is on the right. Tickets available online through website, TelEntrada, or Ticketmaster. Ticket €10-25.
SALA APOLO
POBLE SEC
C. Nou de la Rambla, 113
934 41 40 01
Looking to party but lamenting the fact that it’s Monday? Sulk no more—for a number of years, Sala Apolo has been drawing locals to start the week off right with Nasty Mondays, featuring a mix of rock, pop, indie, garage, ’80s, typical electro, and a special electronica dubbed “fidget house.” In fact, the night is so popular that it has spawned Crappy Tuesdays (indie and electropop). Stop by later in the week when just about anybody and everybody is around, and check the website to see which of the latest indie groups may be rolling through. If you pop in on the right Sunday evening, you may even get to partake in Churros con Chocolate night, which is exactly what it sounds like, plus some dancing.
Open daily midnight-6am, earlier for concerts and events; check website for event schedule.
Festivals
Barcelona loves to party. Although Let’s Go fully supports the city’s festive agenda, we still need to include some nitty-gritty things like accommodations and, you know, food, so we can’t possibly list all of the fun annual events. For a full list of what’s going on during your visit, stop by the tourist information office. As a teaser, here are a few of the biggest, most student-relevant shindigs.
FESTA DE SANT JORDI
LAS RAMBLAS
Las Ramblas
A more intelligent, civil alternative to Valentine’s Day, this festival celebrates both St. George (the dragon-slayer and patron saint of Barcelona) and commemorates the deaths of Shakespeare and Cervantes. On this day, Barcelona gathers along Las Ramblas in search of flowers and books to give to lovers.
Apr 23.
FESTA DE SANT JOAN
BARCELONETA, POBLENOU
The beachfront
These days light a special fire in every pyromaniac’s heart as fireworks, bonfires, and torches light the city and waterfront in celebration of the coming of summer. Night of Jun 23-Jun 24.
BARCELONA PRIDE
CITYWIDE, L’EIXAMPLE
Parade ends in Avda. Maria Cristina, behind Pl. Espanya
This week is the biggest GLBT celebration in the Mediterranean, and Catalunya is no exception. Multiple venues throughout the region take active part in the festival, which culminates with a parade through “Geixample” and a festival.
Last week of Jun.
FESTA MAJOR
GRÀCIA
Pl. Rius i Taulet (Pl. Vila de Gràcia)
Festa Major is a community festival in Gràcia during which artsy intellectuals put on performances and fun events in preparation for the Assumption of the Virgin. Expect parades, concerts, floats, arts and crafts, live music, dancing, and, of course, parties.
End of Aug.
EL BORN
C. Fossar de les Moreres
Catalunya’s national holiday celebrates the end of the Siege of Barcelona in 1714 as well as the reclaiming of national—whoops, we mean regional—identity after the death of Franco. Parties are thrown, flags are waved, and Estrella Damm is imbibed—lots of Estrella Damm.
Sept 11.
FESTA MERCÈ
CITYWIDE, EL BORN
Pl. Sant Jaume
This massive outpouring of joy for one of Barcelona’s patron saints (Our Lady of Mercy) is the city’s main annual celebration. More than 600 free performances take place in multiple venues. There is also a castellers competition in the Pl. Sant Jaume; competitors attempt to build castells (literally “castles,” but in this case human towers) several humans high, which small children clad in helmets and courage then attempt to climb.
Weeks before and after Sept 24.
Fútbol
Although Barcelona technically has two fútbol teams, Fútbol Club Barcelona (FCB) and the Real Club Deportiu Espanyol de Barcelona (RCD), you can easily go weeks in the city without hearing mention of the latter. It’s impossible to miss the former, though, and with good reason. Besides being a really incredible athletic team, FCB lives up to its motto as “more than a club.”
During the years of Francisco Franco, FCB was forced to change its name and crest in order to avoid nationalistic references to Catalunya and thereafter became a rallying point for oppressed Catalan separatists. The original name and crest were reinstated after Franco’s fall in 1974, and the team retained its symbolic importance; it’s still seen as a sign of democracy, Catalan identity, and regional pride.
This passion is not merely patriotic or altruistic, though—FCB has been one of the best teams in the world in recent years. In 2009, they were the first team to win six out of six major competitions in a single year; in 2010, they won Spain’s Super Cup trophy; in 2010 and in 2011, FCB took Spain’s La Liga trophy; and in 2011, they beat Manchester United to win the UEFA Champion’s League, cementing their status as the best club in the world. Their world-class training facilities (a legacy of the 1992 Olympics) supply many World Cup competitors each year, leaving some Barcelonans annoyed that Catalunya is not permitted to compete as its own nation, much like England, Wales, and Scotland do in the United Kingdom. In fact, Spain’s 2010 World Cup victory disappointed much of the Catalonian populous and many die-hard FCB fanatics.
Because FCB fervor is so pervasive, you don’t need to head to their stadium, the Camp Nou, to join in the festivities—almost every bar off the tourist track boasts a screen dedicated to their games. Kick back with a brew and be sure not to root for the competition.
ESSENTIALS
Practicalities
• TOURIST OFFICES: Plaça de Catalunya is the main office, offering free maps and brochures, last-minute booking service for accommodations, currency exchange, and box office. (Pl. de Catalunya, 17S. 93 285 38 34 www.barcelonaturisme.com Catalunya, underground, across from El Corte Inglès. Look for the pillars with the letter “i” on top. Open daily 8:30am-8:30pm.) Plaça de Sant Jaume. (C. Ciutat, 2. 93 270 24 29 Jaume I. Follow C. Jaume I to Pl. Sant Jaume. Located in the Ajuntament building on the left. Open M-F 8:30am-8:30pm, Sa 9am-7pm, Su and holidays 9am-2pm.) Oficina de Turisme de Barcelona (Palau Robert, Pg. de Gràcia, 107. 93 238 80 91, toll-free in Catalunya 012 www.gencat.es/probert Diagonal. Open M-Sa 10am-7pm, Su 10am-2:30pm.) Institut de Cultura de Barcelona (ICUB) (Palau de la Virreina, Las Ramblas, 99. 93 316 10 00 www.bcn.cat/cultura Liceu. Open daily 10am-8pm.) Estació Barcelona-Sants. (Pl. Països Catalans. 90 224 02 02 Sants-Estació. Open Jun 24-Sept 24 daily 8am-8pm; Sept 25-Jun 23 M-F 8am-8pm, Sa-Su 8am-2pm.)
• LUGGAGE STORAGE: Estació Barcelona-Sants. ( Sants-Estació. Lockers €3-4.50 per day. Open daily 5:30am-11pm.) Estació Nord. ( Arc de Triomf. Max 90 days. Lockers €3.50-5 per day.) El Prat Airport. ( €3.80-4.90 per day.)
• GLBT RESOURCES: GLBT tourist guide, available at the Pl. de Catalunya tourist office, includes a section on GLBT bars, clubs, publications, and more. GayBarcelona (www.gaybarcelona.net) and Infogai (www.colectiugai.org) have up-to-date info. Barcelona Pride (www.pridebarcelona.org/en) has annual activities during the last week of June. Antinous specializes in gay and lesbian books and films. (C. Josep Anselm Clavé, 6. 93 301 90 70 www.antinouslibros.com Drassanes. Open M-F 10:30am-2pm and 5-8:30pm, Sa noon-2pm and 5-8:30pm.)
• INTERNET ACCESS: The Barcelona City Government (www.bcn.es) offers free Wi-Fi at over 500 locations, including museums, parks, and beaches. Easy Internet Café has decent rates and around 300 terminals. (Las Ramblas, 31 93 301 75 07 Liceu. €2.10 per hr., min. €2; day unlimited pass €7, week €15, month €30. Open daily 8am-2:30am.) Easy Internet Café. (Ronda Universitat, 35 €2 per hr.; day pass €3, week €7, month €15. Open daily 8am-2:30am.) Navegaweb. (Las Ramblas, 88-94. 93 318 90 26 nevegabarcelona@terra.es Liceu. Calls to US €0.20 per min. Internet €2 per hr. Open M-Th 9am-midnight, F 9am-1am, Sa 9am-2am, Su 9am-midnight.) BCNet (Internet Gallery Café). (C. Barra de Ferro, 3 93 268 15 07 www.bornet-bcn.com. Jaume I. €1 per 15min., €3 per hr., 10hr. ticket €20. Open M-F 10am-11pm, Sa-Su noon-11pm.
• POST OFFICE: Pl. Antonio López. 93 486 83 02 www.correos.es. Jaume I or Barceloneta. Open M-F 8:30am-9:30pm, Sa 8:30am-2pm.
• POSTAL CODE: 08001.
Emergency
• EMERGENCY NUMBERS: 112. Ambulance: 061.
• POLICE: Local police: 092. Mossos d’Esquadra (regional police): 088. National police: 091. Tourist police: Las Ramblas, 43 93 256 24 30 Liceu. Open 24hr.
• LATE-NIGHT PHARMACY: Rotates. Check any pharmacy window for the nearest on duty or call Informació de Farmàcies de Guàrdia (010 or 93 481 00 60 www.farmaciesdeguardia.com).
• MEDICAL SERVICES: Hospital Clínic i Provincial. (C. Villarroel, 170. 93 227 54 00 Hospital Clínic. Main entrance at C. Roselló and C. Casanova.) Hospital de la Santa Creu i Sant Pau. (93 291 90 00; emergency 91 91 91 Guinardó-Hospital de Sant Pau.) Hospital del Mar. (Pg. Marítim, 25-29. 93 248 30 00 Ciutadella-Vila Olímpica.)
Getting There
By Plane
There are two possible airports you may use to reach Barcelona. The first, Aeroport del Prat de Llobregat (BCN; Terminal 1 93 478 47 04, Terminal 2 93 478 05 65), is located slightly closer to the city, though both necessitate bus rides. To get to Pl. Catalunya from the airport, take the Aérobus in front of terminals 1 or 2. (92 415 60 20 www.aerobusbcn.com €5.30, round-trip ticket valid for 9 days €9.15. 35-40min.; every 5-20min. to Pl. Catalunya daily 6am-1am; to airport 5:30am-12:10am.) To get to the airport, the A1 bus goes to Terminal 1 and the A2 goes to Terminal 2. For early morning flights, the NitBus N17 runs from Pl. Catalunya to all terminals. ( €1.45. From Pl. Catalunya every 20min. daily 11pm-5am, from airport every 20min. 9:50pm-4:40am.) The RENFE Rodalies train is cheaper and usually a bit faster than the Aérobus if you’re arriving at Terminal 2. (90 224 34 02 www.renfe.es €1.45, free with T10 transfer from Metro. 20-25min. to Estació Sants, 25-30min. to Pg. de Gràcia; every 30min., from airport 5:40am-11:38pm, from Estació Sants to airport 5:10am-11:09pm.) To reach the train from Terminal 2, take the pedestrian overpass in front of the airport (with your back to the entrance, it’s to the left). For those arriving at Terminal 1, there’s a shuttle bus outside the terminal that goes to the train station.
The Aeroport de Girona-Costa Brava (GRO; 90 240 47 04 www.barcelona-girona-airport.com) is located just outside of Girona, a city about 85km to Barcelona’s northeast. However, Ryanair flights arrive at this airport, so it may be your best bet for getting to Barcelona on the cheap. The Barcelona Bus goes from the airport in Girona to Estació d’Autobusos Barcelona Nord. (90 236 15 50 www.barcelonabus.com Buses from the airport to Barcelona Nord are timed to match flight arrivals. Buses from Barcelona Nord arrive at Girona Airport approximately 3hr. before flight departures. €12, round-trip €21. 1hr. 10min.)
By Train
Depending on the destination, trains can be an economical choice. Estació Barcelona-Sants (Pl. Països Catalans Sants-Estació) serves most domestic and international traffic, while Estació de França (Av. Marqués de l’Argentera Barceloneta) serves regional destinations and a few international locations. Note that trains often stop before the main stations; check the schedule. RENFE (reservations and info 90 224 02 02; international 90 224 34 02 www.renfe.es) runs to Bilbao (€65); Madrid (€118); Sevilla (€143); Valencia (€40-45); and many other destinations in Spain. Trains also travel to Milan (€135 via Girona, Figueres, Perpignan, and Turin); Montpellier (€60); Paris (€146); and Zurich (€136.) via Geneva and Bern. There’s a 20% discount on roundtrip tickets, and domestic trains usually have discounts for reservations made more than two weeks in advance. Call or check website for schedules.
By Bus
Buses are often considerably cheaper than the train. The city’s main bus terminal is Estació d’Autobusos Barcelona Nord. (90 226 06 06 www.barcelonanord.com Arc de Triomf or #54 bus.) Buses also depart from Estació Barcelona-Sants and the airport. Sarfa (ticket office at Ronda Sant Pere, 21 90 230 20 25 www.sarfa.es) is the primary line for regional buses in Catalunya, but Eurolines (93 265 07 88 www.eurolines.es) also goes to Paris, France (€80) via Lyon and offers a 10% discount to travelers under 26 or over 60. Alsa (90 242 22 42 www.alsa.es) is Spain’s main bus line. Buses go to Bilbao (€43); Madrid (€29-34); Sevilla (€79-90); Valencia (€26-31); and many other Spanish cities.
By Ferry
Ferries to the Balearic Islands (Ibiza, Mallorca, and Minorca) leave daily from the port of Barcelona at Terminal Drassanes (93 324 89 80) and Terminal Ferry de Barcelona (93 295 91 82 Drassanes). The most popular ferries are run by Trasmediterránea (90 245 46 45 www.trasmediterrana.es) in Terminal Drassanes. They go to Ibiza (€90 9hr. 30min.) and Mallorca. (€83. 8hr.)
Getting Around
By Metro
The most convenient mode of transportation in Barcelona is the Metro. The Metro is actually comprised of three main companies: Transports Metropolitans de Barcelona (TMB 93 318 70 74 www.tmb.cat), whose logo is an M in a red diamond; Ferrocarrils de la Generalitat de Catalunya (FGC 93 205 15 15 www.fgc.cat), whose logo is an orange square; and Tramvia de Barcelona (Tram 90 070 11 81 www.trambcn.com), whose logo is a green square with a white T. The TMB lines are likely the ones you will use most. Thankfully, all three companies are united, along with the bus system and Rodalies train system, under the Autoritat del Transport Metropolità (www.atm.cat), which means that you only need one card for all forms of transport, and that you get free transfers. Most Metro lines are identified with an L (L1, L2, etc.), though some FGC lines begin with S, and all Tram lines begin with T. ( 1 day €6.20, 10 rides €8.25, 50 rides €33.50, 1 month €51. Trains run M-Th 5am-midnight, F 5am-2am, Sa 24hr., Su 5am-midnight.)
By Bus
For journeys to more remote places, the bus may be an important complement to the metro. The NitBus is the most important: it runs all night long after the Metro closes. Look for bus lines that begin with an N. Barcelona’s tourist office also offers a tourist bus (http://bcnshop.barcelonaturisme.com 1 day €23, 2 days €30) that hits major sights and allows riders to hop on and off. Depending on how much you plan to use the route (and how much you fear being spotted on a red double-decker labeled “Tourist Bus”), a pass may be a worthwhile investment.
By Bike, Motorcycle, And Scooter
Motocicletas (scooters, and less frequently motorcycles—motos for short) are a common sight in Barcelona, and bicycles are also becoming more popular. Many institutions rent motos, but you need a valid driver’s license recognized in Spain (depends on the company, but this sometimes means an international driver’s license as well as a license from your home country) in order to rent one. Many places also offer bike rental. If you will be staying in the city for an extended period, it is possible to buy a bike secondhand (try www.loquo.com) or register for Bicing (90 231 55 31 www.bicing.cat), the municipal red and white bikes located throughout the city.
By Taxi
When other cheaper and more exciting options fail, call Radio Taxi (93 225 00 00). Taxis generally cruise at all hours; when the green light is on, the cab is free.
Welcome to Toledo, the world’s oldest proponent for coexistence. In this ancient city perched atop a massive hill and surrounded by its very own moat (actually the Tagus River, but we can pretend), wander down any street and you’re likely to find a Star of David, Arabic script, and a cross, all within a few yards of each other. This is a city of cathedrals, synagogues, and mosques, of Moorish architecture and cross-shaped transepts. Before the Spanish conquered Toledo in 1085, Muslim Moors ruled the land. The city itself dates back to the Bronze Age (for those of you not in the know, around 600 BC) and was under Roman rule. While visiting, make sure to check out the ancient Roman ruins and city walls—thousand-year remnants of a time long since passed.
Today, you’ll find yourself at the heart of Spain’s Catholic pulse. Spain’s greatest cathedral (or so we think) is located just blocks away from Toledo’s central Plaza, Zocodover, and churches with sky-high, panoramic views cover the city. While this sleepy, medieval town is known for its sharp souvenirs (check the sign at the train station that warns you about pointy objects crossing customs), take a hike across the hills and find the city’s hidden nooks, from ancient Roman military fortifications to fishing spots on the river. While the town may seem touristy at first, it’s exploration, creativity, and a bit of marzapan that will make your trip anything but ordinary—or, for that matter, 21st-century.
SIGHTS
Everywhere you turn in Toledo there’s another sight, another museum, another church. Don’t let yourself be overwhelmed by all of it! Instead, check out the following major attractions, and buy yourself a wristband (pulsera turística) for €8, which will get you into the following attractions any time you want to visit, given that the wristband is still intact around your wrist. Check out la Iglesia Santo Tomé, which holds El Greco’s masterpiece “The Burial of Count Orgaz” (a must see during your time in Toledo), Sinogoga (Synagogue) de Santa María la Blanca, Monasterio (monastery) de San Juan de los Reyes, Mezquita del Cristo de la Luz, Iglesia de los Jesuitas (which, if you climb to the top, is the highest point in the city), and la Iglesia del Salvador (a neat archeological site that lets you go underneath the church and climb up to its bell tower). If you don’t purchase the wristband, one-time entrance to each of these sites is €2.50.
CATHEDRAL OF TOLEDO
CHURCH
C. Cardenal Cisneros, 1
925 22 22 41
It’s hard to miss the Cathedral of Toledo. Standing at 146 feet tall, the cathedral towers over the red brick roofs of the city, a 500-year-old behemoth in an already-ancient town. It took builders 267 years to construct the giant structure (although a structure, which was initially used by the Moors, had been in place in the spot since the sixth century, and it’s no wonder why). Step inside the holy space and revel at the diversity and complexity of its structures, from the ornate marble pilasters to the ancient, stained-glass rose window situated just outside the cathedral’s nave. Though dimly lit (for effect, and to allow natural, consecrated lighting to flow into the vacuous space), the cathedral’s walls seem alive with color. Deep red paintings, like El Greco’s famous “Disrobing of Christ,” remain in the sites in which they were originally intended. Golden gates, mosaic-like altars, and lavishly painted marble sculptures instill the Cathedral with a kind of brimming energy, one that—even if you aren’t religious—will make you feel some sort of spiritual stirring.
Visiting one of Toledo’s most iconic sites is a little pricy. General admission to the cathedral costs €8, while full admission, including access to the Cathedral’s tower and Campana Gordo, Spain’s largest bell, costs €11. Included within the prices of both tickets is a free audio guide, which offers listeners comprehensive historical and aesthetic analysis of the cathedral in English, Spanish, and French. Unfortunately, the cathedral is not one of the €8 wristband sites either. But, despite the cost of the ticket, a trip to Toledo’s ancient cathedral is well worth your time. Photography is allowed, and if you’re on Instagram, you may very well be glued to your phone the entire time, trying to capture the perfect shot of the awe-inspiring baroque altarpiece located at the back of the cathedral’s main altar.
If you do visit, make sure to check the mass schedule ahead of time, since often portions of the cathedral can be closed in order to accommodate worshippers. Liturgy is held at every morning and evening—tourists and sightseers are welcome to participate.
€8 general admission, €11 for access to tower and bell, free audio guide. Open M-Sa 10am-6:30pm, Su and holidays 2-6:30pm.
MUSEO DE SANTA CRUZ
MUSEUM
C. Miguel de Cervantes, 3
925 22 10 36
www.turismocastillalamancha.es
In a town where tourism is the number one industry, you’ll be hard-pressed to find a place that offers free entry. Look no further than Toledo’s own Museo de Santa Cruz, a small body of art located just off the Plaza de Zocodover. Originally built as a charitable hospital in the 1490s to care for the poor and weak, the museum now holds collections of 17th-century ceramics, Classical sculptures, paintings by El Greco from his workshop, and works by Francisco Goya and José de Ribera. The building itself is a work of art too. With a plateresque façade, an incredible coffered ceiling, a tranquil courtyard garden, and an ornately designed and decorated staircase, the museum feels airy, light, and peaceful (just like how hospitals are supposed to feel, right?).
We know you do your booking online! View more listings at www.letsgo.com.
ALBERGUE LOS PASCUALES
HOSTEL $
Cuesta de Pascuales, 8
925 28 24 22
Similar to the Albergue Juvenil hostel in Madrid (and, for that matter, any of the hostels of the same namesake in Spain), Pascuales is clean, comfortable, and close to anything and everything you need in Toledo. When you arrive at the city center, la Plaza de Zocodover, you just need to walk straight and to the right, where you will find a set of stairs that lead directly down to the hostel. It couldn’t get any easier to find. The hostel is quiet, probably because most travelers who spend a night in the city do just that—only one night, if that, since Toledo can easily be conquered in a day. Free Wi-Fi, free breakfast (if you’ll take small pastries, muffins, and a cup of coffee or tea as breakfast) is provided, as are small storage lockers (no carry-ons will be able to fit), and linens. The hostel’s managers are thoughtful and helpful, and if you don’t speak much Spanish you should get along just fine, though you may not get the best restaurant tips. Make sure to check out the map that the hostel manager provides when you check in, on which they mark up and circle various points of interest that you’ll want to look for while in the city.
€14.30; privates and mixed rooms available. Reception open 8:30am-8:30pm. Check in after 1pm; check out by 10:30am. Breakfast from 8:30am-10am.
It’s difficult to describe the museum’s collection in just a few words, since there seems to be no rhyme or reason to its holdings. Though the museum is divided into sections—archeology, ceramics, and paintings from Toledo—its collection is eclectic. On one side of the museum, visitors can view ancient elephant tusks and animals bones; on another, decapitated and de-limbed Classical statues from the second and third centuries; and on another, El Greco’s painting “Assumption of the Virgin,” perhaps the museum’s most famous work.
If you were lucky enough to be in the area in 2014, the museum celebrated the 400th anniversary of El Greco’s death by collecting his works from around the world—including “View of Toledo,” which is housed in New York City’s Metropolitan Museum of Art, and “Knight with His Hand on His Breast,” housed at the nearby Prado Museum in Madrid. While his works have returned to their international owners, the exhibition rejuvenated the Museo de Santa Cruz, perhaps paving the way for an even brighter (literally and figuratively) and more dynamic future.
Free. Open M-Sa 9am-7pm, Su and holidays 10am-2pm.
BRIDGE
Toledo
As the saying goes, you’ll be crossing a lot of bridges in life, but never one like the Alcántara. This ancient Roman bridge connects the steep hills of central Toledo to its northeastern edge and crosses over the tranquil Tagus River, just near a man-made rapid that provides the perfect tinkling water effect to complete the awe-inspiring experience. Built around 105 CE at the request of Roman Emperor Trajan, the bridge spans approximately 190 meters across the river and 45 above it. The archway over the central pier is inscribed with words supposedly from Trajan’s reign: Pontem perpetui mansurum in saecula, “I have built a bridge that will last forever.” Seems like he did a good job at that. The bridge has survived both the elements and a number of wars from pre-modern times, including partial destruction by the Moors in the 13th century and by the Spanish against the French in the 19th century—but even so, that which is left intact is nearly 2,000 years old. If you’re visiting from the heart of Toledo—anywhere near Plaza Zocodover—you’re in for quite a trek. Walk down what seems like a million flights of stairs to arrive at the foot of the bridge—and of course, to return, climb right back up. The positive side? It’s a great leg workout. Plus, if you walk around the Huerta del Rey, or the King’s botanical garden (read: the dirt, albeit beautiful, trails bordering the Tagus River), you can catch a view of the bridge from all sorts of different angles (Instagram, anyone?) in addition to catching another great workout.
MONASTERY OF SAN JUAN DE LOS REYES
MONASTERY
C. Reyes Católicos, 17
925 22 38 02
This naturally lit monastery smells like fresh flowers. Inside the structure is a verdant, lush garden, surrounded by cool grey brick and spiraling arabesque towers. Visitors can view the garden, the upstairs patio, and the single nave, with seats, an altarpiece, and religious symbols—small spaces, sure, but beautiful and pristine nonetheless. With your €8 wristband you can find peace here as many times as needed, so long as you keep the band attached to your wrist and find reasons to need tranquility.
The Monastery of San Juan de Los Reyes was commissioned by the Catholic monarchs in Toledo in 1476 to honor the Castilian victory over the Portuguese in the Battle of Toro. Initially, the structure was designed to hold the monarchs’ tombs, but eventually the monarchs gave the monastery to the Franciscan order. Designed by architect Juan Guas, the structure represents a fusion of Spanish-Flemish Gothic style, but a fire during the French invasion in 1808 destroyed the original altarpiece and other facets of the building. Thus, architect Arturo Mélida carried out a Neo-Gothic reconstruction with traces of Romanticism in the late 1800s (don’t be disappointed when you learn some parts of the building are not, in fact, 500 years old).
The Monastery is a shady and, for Toledo, unfrequented spot (don’t hold me to this on Saturdays) for tourists, so after a day of trekking up and down the many hills of the city, take a rest and enjoy a little bit of history. San Juan Los Reyes is within short walking distance of the Iglesia de Santo Tomé, a number of synagogues, and of course, a lot of food options like tabernas and bars to get your rejuvenated once more.
€2.50. Open Mar-Oct 15 daily 10am-6:45pm; Oct 16-Feb daily 10am-5:45pm.
LIZARRAN
BAR, CAFE $
C. Toledo de Ohio, 3
914 90 28 05
Stop in at Lizarran for three minutes or three hours. This lively bar, cafe, cafeteria, and whatever other type of Spanish restaurant exists, is a multipurpose space that accommodates people looking for a quick bite or those who seek a long conversation with friends over coffee and lunch. Peek in during the morning for a snappy cup of café con leche or at night for a full bar and a game of fútbol. Anyone who’s hungry and looking for a pit stop is welcome.
Lizarran’s menu is diverse, but perhaps its most popular dishes are its small (but filling, and inexpensive!) tapas sandwiches, like salmon quiche or bacon-chicken salad on bread. Sort of like a classy buffet, you can open up the sandwich display cases in the front of the restaurant and serve yourself a bit of finger food, for anywhere from €1-2 a pop. They also serves traditional Southern Spanish raciones for €5.90, a “doble cerveza” for €1.50, menús del día for €10—and even for those who don’t need all of the food served in a menú del día, an “express” meal (one meal, as opposed to two, a drink, and a dessert) for €7.50.
The restaurant is part of a small Spanish chain that was founded in Barcelona in 1988. Since then, it has expanded internationally into other parts of Europe, Asia, and South America. But don’t let its global presence dissuade you from eating here in favor of another “authentic” restaurant. The Toledo-based cafe caters its menu toward foods of the region, serving Toledo’s traditional-style stew (a favorite among customers). Plus, its servers are so friendly, the atmosphere so upbeat and local, and the prices so cheap in a rather expensive town, that it’s difficult to pass up on a few tapas here.
Tapas €1-2. Café con leche €1.40. Raciones €5.90. Beer €1.50. Open daily 10:30am-midnight.
POSADA EL CRISTO DE LA LUZ
ARABIC $$
C. Cristo de La Luz
622 54 12 97
http://posadacristodelaluz.com
If Toledo’s the city of three cultures, it must also be the city of three cuisines. That’s your cue to go hunting for some good Arabic food, and it won’t be too difficult here, because the Moors have had a foothold in Toledo since before the Spaniards even arrived. One such Arabic restaurant, Posada El Cristo de la Luz, looks like it hasn’t changed a bit it since before the Spanish conquered Toledo in 1085 and tourists began flocking not soon after. Enter the restaurant up its stone stairs and through its terrace (don’t eat there, more expensive!), where you’ll enter what looks like your cool Grandma’s attic—that is, if your Grandma smokes hookah. Plush blue, red, and golden cushions invite you to sit, while plenty of stone-rimmed mirrors and glinting reflective surfaces allow you to admire yourself while chowing down on that steamy platter of falafel and hummus. The restaurant is dimly lit, fragrant, and quite warm and comfortable. What’s even better—they don’t play that corny imitation “Arabic” music for which many Middle Eastern restaurants have a penchant. Instead, expect soft, contemporary string music and jazz.
Though this place may look like your cool Grandma’s attic, no need to worry about her cooking. Everything at Posada El Cristo de la Luz is tender, savory, and flavorful mixed with rich spices and cool herbs. Crunchy falafel and cucumber cream costs €4, and fatair (a mix of cheese, meat, and spinach) costs €6.
Finally, for those of us unaccustomed to the concepts of siesta and “cocina abierta” (open kitchen), Posada El Cristo de la Luz will come as a refreshing exception, especially after an hour of hunting for restaurants from 4-6pm. Yes, Posada El Cristo de la Luz has an open kitchen all the time, and they even serve their €10 menú del día after 6pm (though they don’t include a dessert, but no one’s perfect).
Menú del día €10. Entrees €3-7. Open M-Th 12:30pm-midnight, F-Su 12:30pm-2am.
NIGHTLIFE
DRAGOS
BAR
C. Sillerias, 11
925 67 22 23
www.facebook.com/pages/Dragos-Night-Toledo
First things first: people don’t come to Toledo to party. Sure, there are a number of bars and pubs in the area open later into the night, but most close anywhere from midnight-2am, significantly earlier than do any of the bars and clubs in neighboring Madrid. Dragos, one of these bars, is a great find in the sleepy town of Toledo. It’s a hub for young students and travelers to meet with friends, grab a few drinks, and soak up the warm Toledo air after dinnertime, to relax after a day of climbing the steep city’s hills, or just to catch up. Located right off la Plaza de Zocodover, Dragos it is easy to find, fairly inexpensive, and a nice, laid-back intimate bar that doubles as a restaurant during the daytime. Plus, with a television set in the corner of the bar for watching fútbol games, large windows apt for people watching, and an open terrace perfect for lounging in the warm evening breeze with a group of friends, this bar offers more than a few good drinks.
Try a tequila shot, complete with lime and salt, or other shots, for €1-2, a medium-sized beer for €1.50, a regular-sized beer for €2, or mixed drinks from €3-6. The bartender is a friendly, funny man who speaks broken Spanish (together, you may just have a primitive conversation) and encourages you to drink more, and more (that’s right, the life of the party in Toledo). While Dragos’s kitchen closes at nighttime, stop by during the day for a taste of its delicious, traditional menús del día offerings (€12). No matter what time you visit, you’re sure to spot a person or two taking a break from the bright Toledo sun and hills to enjoy a meal and a drink at this hole-in-the wall bar.
Shots €1-2. Beer €1.50-2. Mixed drinks €3-6. Open M-Th 7:30am-1:30am, F-Su 7:30am-2:30am.
ESSENTIALS
Practicalities
• TOURIST OFFICES: There are a number of tourist information offices and checkpoints throughout the small city, but one of your best options is Castilla La Mancha, located on Puerta de Bisagra, (925 220 843), open M-F 9am-6pm, Sa 9am-7pm, Su 9am-3pm. Also try the Municipal Tourism Office in the Plaza del Consistorio, (925 254 030), open daily from 10am-6pm. Once you get into the Plaza de Zocodover, there’s a tourist information spot just down the street called Casa de Mapa (yes, ask for a map here). (Open daily from 11am-7pm.) They will also likely give you directions to your hostel, since the city is so small. Additionally, maps are available at the train station, and your hostel will likely give you a map outlining specific attractions in the city. Do make sure to take one with you. It will probably be more helpful than Google—for once in your life.
Emergency
• EMERGENCY NUMBERS: 112. Ambulance: 092.
• POLICE: Local police: 92 525 59 00. Municipal Police 092. National police: 091.
• MEDICAL SERVICES: There are a few hospitals inside of Toledo that still function today. Try the Hospital Virgen de la Salud, located at 30 Avenue de Barber (925 26 92 00).
Getting There and Getting Around
Outside of the main, hilly center of Toledo is Toledo’s train station (Paseo de la Rosa), which serves Renfe trains and in front of which urban buses stop every few minutes. From Madrid, taking a high speed Renfe train to Toledo for €12.70 lasts about 30 minutes, whereas a bus from the Plaza Eliptica Bus Station can take about 1.5 hours, but can cost €9 or less. A car ride from Madrid to Toledo also takes about an hour, since the city is approximately 43 miles south of Madrid on the A-42 highway. Exits to Toledo are well posted along this highway.
From the train station, you can choose to walk to the city center (which is definitely doable, albeit an upward trek), catch a taxi, or take a €2.50 city bus just outside of the station to la Plaza de Zocodover, which takes around 10 minutes (probably your best option). Within the city, there is no public transportation besides the urban buses and taxis, which mainly stop on Cuesta del Alcázar and Cuesta de la Vega. Everything in Toledo is within walking distance. This will be your best, cheapest, and easiest option, since streets are often very narrow and cars cannot pass through.
Even if you’re only staying in Toledo for one day or overnight, it’s useful to know the ins-and-outs of the city’s services, since constant heat and lots of climbing can prove particularly hazardous.
Valencia’s a lot like Madrid—cultural, artistic, festive—only unlike Madrid, it’s in the middle of somewhere: the beach. Make the four-hour bus trip southeast of Spain’s capital and find yourself in a bustling beach town steeped with ancient culture, crazy nightlife, and of course, paella. From the impressive modern architecture of the city’s behemoth entertainment complex, the City of Arts and Sciences, to the tallest (and one of the oldest) spots in town, the Cathedral (which purportedly holds the Holy Grail), Valencia combines the old and the new, a perfect fit for anyone who ventures over. When you’re visiting, don’t forget to stop by the central market (Mercat Central) for a famous Valencian orange, Horchateria Santa Catalina for the city’s sweet drink orxata (horchata, only the original kind made of tiger nuts—you’ll either love it or hate it), and any local bar for a taste of Agua de Valencia, the city’s lifeblood alcoholic drink. And in case you’re wondering, most everything in Valencia is written in Valencia, a dialect of Catalan. Most people speak Spanish and English too, though, so don’t even bother learning the phrase “benvingut” (welcome).
SIGHTS
PALACIO DEL MARQUES DE DOS AGUAS
PALACE
C. del Poeta Querol, 2
963 51 63 92
You’ve probably seen a lot of museums while traveling. Museums with lots of paintings by really famous people, or sculptures, or even piles of trash re-appropriated and labeled as “art.” But have you seen an entire museum dedicated to ceramics? The former home of a family of Venetian nobles, the Palacio del Marques de Dos Aguas now functions as just that, hosting an impressive collection of pottery from the second century to the twentieth. The “palace”—or, a very fancy, very large house—dates back to the 18th century and was built in Baroque/Rococo style with alabaster.
Before you enter the museum, make sure to take a long look at the exterior facade. The two carved men on the front of the museum represent the two river mouths (dos aguas) of the city, while a “rotating Virgin” also graces the front of the palace. Yes, the family had a Virgin Mary placed on its outer facade complete with the ability to turn inwards to face the house dwellers when they were inside, or to face the street when they weren’t home (great cue for robbers, right?).
The labyrinthine palace is lavish, to say in the least. Complete with crystal chandeliers, plush velvet couches, classical frescoes, and priceless jewelry (all on display or part of the architecture of the building itself), the museum holds a wide array of aristocratic objects that give viewers a taste of what life must have been like for the nobles of Valencia and Spain in the mid-18th century. Beautiful painted bowls and china from Asia and Europe can be viewed in the museum in additional to special exhibitions, like a history of fans (the waving kind, not the person kind—though both do wave, we suppose) from the 18th century onward.
The best news? Students get in free! If you’ve already graduated and don’t have an old ID card, pay €3 to visit all four floors of painting, jewelry, and of course, ceramics.
€3, students free. Free Sa after 4pm and Su. Open Tu-Sa 10am-2pm and 4-8pm, Su 10am-2pm.
BIOPARC VALENCIA
ZOO
Pío Baroja, 3
902 250 340
Lions, tigers, bears—in central Valencia—oh my! The city is very (and by very, we mean VERY) proud of its in situ (a.k.a. no cages) zoo for animals of all shapes and sizes. The 10-hectare zoo is located at the west end of the city’s Jardín del Turia—the giant, river-shaped series of parks and recreational centers that snakes through Valencia—and hosts a variety of animals from Africa. Biopark describes itself as “a zoological park of a new generation,” implementing a new concept of “zoo immersion” by reconstructing animals’ natural habitats and hiding the barriers between animals and the public. Instead of using railings and barricades to separate animals and people, the park uses “natural” barriers like streams and rocks, in order to immerse zoo-goers in the habitats of the animals while not endangering either. While partly intended to be educational, reconstructing the animals’ natural habitats also emphasizes the park’s dedication to conservation and preservation of endangered species.
During your visit, you’ll completely forget that the zoo is located in the middle of an urban, bustling beach city. From its quaint ponds to its wide grassy landscapes, the zoo really does feel like a world away from city life. In addition to all-access day passes, Bioparc offers a number of events and special themed days for zoo goers to enjoy and learn more about the flora and fauna they are viewing. Try for World Wetlands Day, Africa Day, or World Environment Day.
On their website and at the front entrance the park also lists the times it feeds certain animals, like its elephants and monkeys.
While the price of a single-day visit is nothing to go bananas over, students under the age of 25 with a valid ID card do receive a 15-percent discount off an otherwise €23.80 ticket. Can you do math? That’s €20.23 folks. Sometimes being a student has its perks.
€23.80, students €20.23. Open Apr-June daily 10am-8pm; July-Aug daily 10am-9pm; Sept-Oct daily 10am-7pm; Nov-Mar daily 10am-6pm.
L’IBER MUSEO DE LOS SOLDADITOS DE PLOMO
MUSEUM
C. Caballeros, 20-22
963 918 675
Imagine if toys came to life, just as they do in the Toy Story movies. If that was the case, L’Iber Museo de Los Soldaditos de Plomo would be a frantic, bustling place. The Museum was opened to the public in 2007, after local Valencian Álvaro Noguera Giménez embarked on a project in the early 1980s to create a museum of historical miniature figures. His own toys constituted the early foundations of the museum, which now holds more than a million pieces and displays to the public approximately 85,000 of them—the most expansive and complex collection the world has ever seen. The museum is housed in an ancient Gothic palace that was originally the home of the Marquis of Malferit, and each of its rooms on the second floor that hold figurines feels quite homey—perfect for keeping toys.
Walk around the museum’s rooms and view figurines of Russian soldiers, ancient Christians walking the Corpus Christi procession, Real Madrid CF and and FC Barcelona players facing off in the early 20th century. The figurines are incredibly detailed; so intricately carved and painted you may as well believe they truly are alive. Watch emotions unfold, actions begin to play out in these still, frozen scenes. The diorama settings the figurines dwell within are also extremely well done. Powdery snow dusts, battlefields, and leafy trees populate verdant meadows. Rooms are organized by theme—Napoleonic, Antiquity, Corpus Christi, Daily Life, and more.
Maybe visiting a miniatures museum doesn’t sound like the most exciting thing to do during your stay in Valencia. You may think that, but don’t be too quick to judge. It’s an incredibly worthwhile and inexpensive museum, a sort of hole-in-the-wall many college students don’t think about. The museum showcases a different type of art—miniatures—that provides a refreshing alternative to typical museum works, like paintings and sculptures. So channel your inner wide-eyed-with-wonder child. The toys are waiting.
€5, €3 students. Open W-Su 11am-2pm and 4-7pm.
get a room!
We know you do your booking online! View more listings at www.letsgo.com.
RED NEST
HOSTEL $
C. Paz, 36
963 42 71 68
When you walk up Calle de La Paz to Red Nest’s front door, you will see a sign advertising the hostel as the best in Valencia. With a full bar, a location right in the center of the city, and a vibrant social atmosphere, we don’t doubt them. Come to Red Nest if you’re looking to meet new people from around the world and remain close to the heart of Valencia’s old city. The hostel mixes comfort with an energetic social scene, offering low-priced tapas and bar specials many nights a week, and also hosting a famous pub crawl (perhaps the best way to meet people) which stops at Valencia’s best and most popular clubs, ending at the ultra cool L’umbracle terrace. Join Red Nest’s staff for a tour of “Old” Valencia and “New Valencia” as well as an urban graffiti tour to see the best artwork in the city (for free!). The hostel has plenty of common spaces, especially its kitchen, where many people opt out of restaurant dining and instead come together to share a meal and conversation.
The staff is friendly and helpful, willingly pointing you in the direction of the beach, the market (a great place to grab cheap meals instead of eating out), and other sites in the city. Check out their restaurant and sightseeing recommendations. Included in the costs of the hostel are free Wi-Fi, clean linens, and storage lockers. Breakfast is not included. It’s €8, but delicious, with pastries, orange juice, and other snacks. Tea and coffee (with milk and sugar on the side) are free and provided all day in the kitchen, which closes around midnight.
The hostel is so popular it even has a second location just around the corner, called the Purple Nest. Both are relatively the same (though apparently the Red Nest’s bar is busier and better most nights). You get access to both of them, so your call—and your drinks.
Dorms €14-16, privates €20-22. Reception 24hr. Check out by 10:30am. Breakfast from 8:30am-10am.
CITY OF THE ARTS AND SCIENCES
MUSEUM, AQUARIUM
Av. del Profesor López Piñero, 7
902 10 0031
Just when you thought Valencia couldn’t get more diverse, you stumble upon the City of Arts and Sciences. A city within a city, Valencia’s biggest tourist attraction. The entertainment complex holds multiple attractions, including a science museum, an aquarium, an Imax theatre, a botanical garden, an opera house, and more. Even if you don’t have time to peek inside each of these attractions (and you won’t, no one will, ever), it’s worth a quick trip just to marvel at the architectural feat that is the complex. Its science museum was designed in the shape of a whale’s skeleton; its aquarium takes the shape of a water lily. Thousands of liters of water compose shallow fountains and pools within the complex, within some of which people can ride in hamster wheels or go kayaking.
Just take it all in slowly, and choose wisely. The City of Arts and Sciences’ aquarium, called L’Oceanogràfic, is definitely recommended, since it’s the largest aquarium in all of Europe, clocking in at 10,000 square meters and 42 million liters of water. The aquarium is home to hundreds of different species, including walruses and turtles. Walk into one tunnel, look up at the ceiling, and try not to scream when you realize sharks are swimming above your head. That’s just part of the fun.
The city’s science museum, called El Museu de les Ciències Príncipe Felipe, is also worth a full day trip. This interactive museum is home to a number of breathtaking exhibits that display, for example, the sequencing of the human chromosome, or a live electricity animation.
Besides its regular exhibits and activities, the City of Arts and Sciences hosts a number of concerts, fairs, and parties. One of Valencia’s biggest clubs parties each night in the Umbracle, an open-air botanical garden of sorts. There’s even a stage located in one of the complex’s many pools—still waiting on that concert, but it’s bound to be good.
Sciencemuseum and IMAX cinema €12.60. Museum and aquarium €29.70. IMAX and aquarium €30.30. All three €36.25. Student discount of 15%. Open M-F 10am-6pm, Sa 10am-7pm, Su 10am-6pm.
FOOD
HORCHATERÍA SANTA CATALINA
RESTAURANT $$
Pl. de Santa Catalina, 6
963 91 23 79
www.horchateriasantacatalina.com
If you’ve ever lived in Southern California or have visited Mexico, you’re bound to have tried horchata, a sugary sweet cinnamon and rice drink perfect for summer days (and featured in a popular Vampire Weekend song of the same namesake). Thought the drink originated in Mexico too? Think again. Valencia’s rendition of the drink—orxata—is made from small, wrinkly seeds called tiger nuts. The end result is a watery, semi-sweet drink. Some love it, some hate it, and others say it tastes like carrots. Try it to find out. The drink is rumored to have come into being when Muslims brought tiger nuts into Valencia, and one legend links the origins of orxata’s name to King James I of Aragon. According to legend, he was given the drink by a local girl and apparently really liked it, exclaiming in Catalan “Açò és or, xata!” (“That’s gold, darling!” Sound it out).
This small Horchatería offers its namesake drink for a cheap price, as well as chocolates, ice creams, pastries (try a classic farton with your horchata drink), coffees, and liquors. If you’re feeling a bit hungrier than your typical café con leche and snack, try rice, ham salad, muscles, or soup. This place seems to have it all, and for being near the city center, offers its food and drink for a relatively cheap price. €2 for a cool cup of horchata, other food and courses cost from of €4-10.
Santa Catalina is located in historic central Valencia next to the church of Santa Catalina and near the city’s cathedral. We suggest grabbing an ice-cold orxata to go on a breezy Valincian afternoon and strolling through the beautiful downtown district of the city. You can’t beat leisure and good eats on vacation.
Orxata (horchata) €2. Other food €4-10. Open daily 8:15am-9:30pm.
MERCAT CENTRAL
MARKET
Pl. Ciudad de Brujas
963 82 91 00
What’s the cheapest way a college student can eat in Valencia? The Mercat Central (in Spanish: Mercado Central), or Central Market of the city. Housed is a beautiful building covered in colorful yellow and blue ceramics and spiraling Arabesque style designs, the market is a near-daily hotspot for both locals and visitors to the city. In total, the market covers 8,160 square meters and hosts nearly 400 merchants who sell their fresh produce, fish, and other foods on a daily basis, with nearly 1500 people involved in the production and selling of these items. The central market is the largest of its kind in Europe, and with prices cheaper than any good menú del día, you’re not going to want to miss out.
While eating at restaurants is one way to get a taste of local food and culture, many traveling students simply cannot afford eating out each night. Instead, try your hand at the market. Cooking up something in your hostel is both fun and rewarding, if you have the time and space to do so.
Get transported back to a fresh Valencia farm as you bite into a fresh apple, a delicious jamon iberico sandwich, or a cup of cool, rich yogurt. There’s doubtless something for everyone here—meat lovers, vegans, even people who live solely off desserts (and what’s so bad about that?). Eating at the market makes for a fun morning away from the heat and touristy crowds of central Valencia. Plus, if you play your cards right, you can grab a fresh bag of produce and other foods for under €10—and feed yourself for a week.
Prices vary depending on vendor. Open M-Sa 8am-2:30pm.
LA RIUÀ
RESTAURANT $$
C. del Mar, 27
963 91 45 71
The napkins at La Riuà are probably thicker than your hostel’s blankets—a sure sign of fancy, and definitely over budget. But fear not, broke college student! While you’ll see a number of 40-year old European men in rolled shirt sleeves and Rolexes ordering copious amounts of rose wine, La Riuà offers hot, authentic paella starting only at €10. The wait to eat your meal can be an upwards of 30 minutes (they want to make sure you’re REALLY hungry, right?), but when you see that simmering pan of soft yellow rice, potatoes, and meat heading in your direction, you’ll forget everything else.
Try La Riuà’s pork, potato, and garbanzo beans paella or its famous Paella Valenciana, complete with savory seafood and fresh rabbit, for only €10 for one or two people. Larger pans of the region’s most famous dish are offered starting at €12 and can cost as much as €23, though when ordering these dishes most people eat with groups of friends or family. Fine wines, desserts, and that gaudy mineral water in its blue glass bottle are also served, again starting cheap and getting much more expensive as the quality and quantity of food and drink rise.
The atmosphere in which you will dine matches the quality of food served perfectly. The walls of La Riuà are covered with blue and white ceramic plates and tasteful Spanish flags and trinkets. Even its floors—adobe red tile with ceramic tile inserts—are beautiful. Dine alone or with friends; the restaurant accommodates both experiences. Sweet free white wine shots are also provided to diners at the end of each meal (probably one of the fanciest shots you will ever take). Just make sure not to eat the bread they tempt you with as you are agonizing over the long wait for your meal. As usual, no es gratis.
Paella €10. Salads €10. Meats €12-18. Fish €15. Café con leche €1.40. Raciones €5.90. Beer €1.50. Open M 2-4:15pm, Tu-Sa 2-4:15pm and 9-11pm.
NIGHTLIFE
ESPIT CHUPITOS BAR
BAR
Dr. Chiarri, 8
649 19 61 65
Have you ever seen a bar on fire? Taken a fiery shot of liquor and inhaled its fumes when you’ve finished? If you visit Espit Chupitos Bar in Valencia, you’re in for one of the most exciting rounds of shots you’ve probably ever experienced. Walk into the bar after an early night of pub-crawling and stare at its chalkboard wall listing more than 600 different kinds of shots offered. Yes, 600. We didn’t even know that many existed, but apparently creativity is one of Espit’s best qualities.
If you name it, they have it. Jello shots, Girl Scout Cookie shots, orange cream shots, pop rocks, and even shots on fire—literally. You can actually choose to roast a marshmallow on your shot should you so desire. Yes, it’s about the alcohol, but it’s also about the experience of consuming the alcohol. Slurp up shots in straws, drink shots from a bowl, lick…. the Monica Lewinsky shot. The bar’s a great place to pregame for Valencia’s hottest clubs with friends. However, this bar is not at all for the faint hearted.
Espit charges €1-2 per shot, but you won’t need too many to start feeling their effects. A dark, grimy, intimate atmosphere (everyone’s crowded around the bar, everyone’s rubbing up against one another) makes the shot-taking experience even better for the group. Don’t expect too much mingling with strangers, though. Visiting the bar is a bonding experience for people already in groups together, not a place to meet new local friends.
For those who want to be the butt of a few jokes after visiting the bar, Espit offers other types of drinks, like beers and cocktails. But since you’re at a Chupitos bar, it’s kind of mandatory that you take at least one shot. Then you can mix in a few other drinks.
Shots €1-2. Beer and mixed drinks €3-6. Open W-Sa 11pm-3:30am.
UNIC DAILY GOODNESS
BAR
Jaume, 1
963 92 05 70
Ah, nothing like hearing a familiar Madonna song in a bar 3,000 miles from home. At Unic, the prices may be a little high, but the music, the atmosphere, and the dancing are worth a couple of euros. A retro, cosmopolitan, trendy/urban bar located in the popular Carmen neighborhood of the city, Unic is a hub for young people looking to start their night with a bit of energy and playfulness. Jam out to classic American ’80s hits, and if you’re not too drunk yet, take a bit of time to admire the bar’s classy decor. Typewriters and old telephones decorate the walls (how they stay put, we have no idea), and an artsy cardboard deer head stands vigilant just behind the bar (thank you, Unic, for inadvertently supporting animal rights!). Find yourself in a happy mix of locals and recent European (or American) college graduates. You’ll be able to understand some language while still enjoying a wholeheartedly “local” experience.
The bar is known for its cocktails and vodka tonics, so make sure to try one if you visit. Be cautioned: the drinks here are not cheap (but quality does improve with an increase in price, the world seems to have determined). Your least expensive mixed drink here is classic Agua de Valencia, for €7, and, if you somehow find yourself a rich European prince for the weekend to try out a champagne, your most expensive drink will be veuve clicquot for €120. Don’t worry—there’s not too much in between €7 and €120. The average price of a drink at Unic is €10.
Start your night laidback and fun with Unic. But if you’re looking to save up some money for the clubs, it might be good to pregame before and take a sip of Agua later.
Drinks €7-12.
L’UMBRACLE
BAR
Av. Del Saler, 5
671 66 80 00
You visited the museum during the daytime, now it’s time to party there at night. Check out this famous open-air club at 1am on a Saturday night—its busiest and craziest hour. Situated in the heart of the City of Arts and Sciences, L’Umbracle is loud, sweaty, and packed (luckily for you, the cool ocean air gives the place a nice breeze during its hottest nights). The live DJ plays fast-paced house music and bright lights color the floor and walls of the space, sort of like a 21st-century disco under the stars.
The cover price is a hefty €15, which is comparable to that at major clubs in Madrid like Kapital or Joy Eslava. The environment is also similar to these clubs. Dress your best (look your best), and come with girls. All problems will be solved. Be warned: security guards are known to card people they don’t deem “good enough” for their club, and will sometimes impose a 21+ age barrier toward entrance even though Spain’s drinking age is 18. If you make it through, congratulations! If not, you’re just too good for this city anyway.
Though L’Umbracle is party central, if you need to cool down for a minute after a long night of drinking and dancing, you’ll find plenty of space and seats to mingle and chat with friends. As with any club, drink prices can be rather exorbitant, so you’re better off pregaming at a bar or pub prior to visiting the club. Check out their website to see if any concerts or events will be going on during the time you’re thinking of visiting.
Cover €15. Mixed drinks starting at €8. Beer €4. Open Sa 1am-late.
ESSENTIALS
Practicalities
• TOURIST OFFICES: The city has a number of tourist offices, including one in the airport and several in the city center. Consider purchasing a Valencia Tourist Card that is available in 24, 48, or 72-hour increments. It offers free public transportation (bus, metro, etc.) throughout the city, including the journey to and from the Valencia airport, free entry to public museums and monuments, and various citywide discounts.
Emergency
• EMERGENCY NUMBERS: 112. Ambulance: 061.
• POLICE: Local police: 092. Mossos d’Esquadra (regional police): 088. National police: 091. Tourist police: Las Ramblas, 43 93 256 24 30 Liceu. Open 24hr.
• PHARMACIES: Like everywhere else in Spain, pharmacies are marked by lighted crosses, either green or blue. Most pharmacies close at 10pm and are closed for siesta time, from around 2-4pm.
• MEDICAL SERVICES: There are a number of hospitals and healthcare facilities in the city. Try Hospital de València al Mar for general services. Located at Rio Tajo 1. 34 963 352 500. The General Hospital is located at Avda. Tres Cruces and can be reached at 963 352 500.