By Plane
Great news! Valencia has its own airport. It’s located a few miles outside of the city, on Carretera del Aeropuerto, and connects about 15 different European countries to Valencia, Spain. Vueling, Turkish Airlines, Air France, and Air Berlin, among others, fly through Valencia. The city’s metro line 3 runs between the airport and the city center, and a one-way ticket costs €1.50, while a return ticket costs €2.90. The metro station is on the ground floor of the regional flights terminal. A number of taxis also line up just outside of the airport and cost €1.08 per kilometer. Taxi trips from the airport cost €5.40+ the regular fares. A flat rate of €20 is applied to trips from the airport to the city center.
By Bus
Another great way to get to Valencia (and decidedly cheaper than flying) is by bus. From Madrid, a bus ride takes 4-5 hours and costs about €25. From the bus station, you can take a city bus (like number 8) to the city center (Av. Menéndez Pidal, 11).
Getting Around
By Bus
Valencia has a metro system, but it’s not very useful for transportation in the city, as is used mainly by commuters from the suburbs. Instead, Valencia has a strong urban bus network (Valencia Municipal Transport Company, or EMT) with 52 different routes. This will be your best option for getting around the city, which is rather sprawling and often difficult to conquer by foot. Fares cost €1.50 per ride.
By Bike
Valencia’s a flat city with tons of bike lanes ready for tourists! Try renting with one of several different companies, like Valencia Bikes or Valenbisi.
Tell anyone in the South of Spain that you’re visiting Sevilla and the typical response will be, “So lucky, I love that city.” We’re still waiting to hear from someone who does not love the beautiful Andalusian capital. Stroll through the twisting streets of the ancient port city and discover centuries of history within the architecture, from the mosaic, Moorish Real Alcázar in the heart of Sevilla to the verdant, colorful Plaza de España just a few steps away. In the summer months, head over to the river at sunset for brilliant, golden views, and wait a couple hours for some of Spain’s most vibrant nightlife. The city is rich, in its history, diversity, and people, offering visitors authentic southern Spain experiences while also catering to a burgeoning youth population lookin’ for a good night on the town.
Sevilla was the hub of the empire in the 16th century during Spain’s conquest of the Americas, since all goods had to be regulated through the city before being redistributed throughout Spain. In later years, globetrotter Ferdinand Magellan would depart from the port to start his voyage around the world. In the 11th century, Muslims ruled the land, and in the 18th, the city established one of the world’s most renowned bull rings, drawing the attention of royalty and celebrity fighters from across the globe. Spend a day wandering the city and imagine life back in the golden days of Spain. Stumble upon the tobacco factory, the university, and the hospital. Mysteries and secrets hide around every corner. In Sevilla, you might learn a thing or two about the world.
ALCAZAR
PALACE
Patio de Banderas
954 50 23 24
If you’ve been traveling around in Spain for a while, you’ve probably seen your fair share of castles, cathedrals, etc. Maybe you’re a little tired of them by now. Sure, they’re beautiful, grand, historical, but you can’t help but feel that they all look a little bit the same. If this sounds like you, take a trip to the Alcázar of Sevilla, a former Moorish palace overrun by the Spanish Catholics that still retains its old age, Arabic feel. Because its upper rooms are still used by the Spanish royal family (how and why, we aren’t really sure), the Alcázar is one of the oldest palaces still in use worldwide.
Enter the 11th-century palace and get lost in its maze of large gardens and ceramic rooms. There is little to no furniture in the palace’s interior—instead, find breathtaking, colorful tile work dappled with shells and Hand of Fatima motifs, as well as arabesques. The rooms are voluminous and broken only by typical Mudéjar archways, like those found in many mosques, like the Great Mosque of Cordoba. Don’t get us started about the gardens. Walk through a few rooms in the palace and out into its many courtyards, like the Mannerist Garden of Troy, and find sleepy trees, bright bougainvillea branches, and plenty of doves.
What’s incredible about the Alcázar is that, from the outside, it’s a very unassuming—if not drab—building. Only visitors who pay the €9.50 (€2 for students!) can truly see the manifestation of the phrase “don’t judge a book by its cover”). One would never believe how many gardens and architectural masterpieces can fit inside the walls of this fortress. Additionally, the Alcázar saw centuries of architectural alteration that influenced its current form. If you’re an art history buff, you’ll drool over the mixture of styles, from Mudéjar Renaissance to Baroque. Some contemporary thinkers may even consider the interior minimalist, if that’s the intention 11th-century Muslims had when constructing their castle.
Have we convinced you yet? This place is one of the most stunning in Spain, if not in the entire world. Yes, praise humanity for its architectural feats.
€9.50, reduced €4.50. 
Open Apr-Sept daily 9:30am-7pm, Oct-Mar daily 9:30am-5pm.
PLAZA DE TOROS DE LA REAL MAESTRANZA DE CABALLERÍA DE SEVILLA
BULLRING
Paseo de Cristóbal Colón, 12
Plaza de toros de la Real Maestranza de Caballería de Sevilla. That’s quite a mouthful. If something’s got a name this long (and the word Real, which means Royal, in it), you know it’s worth a visit. Such is the case with Sevilla’s famed bullring, allegedly the second oldest in the world (slightly younger than that in Ronda). Its construction began in 1749 and wasn’t actually completed until more than 100 years later, in 1881. There are five gates in the main arena from which the matadors arrive and leave in addition to other functions.
Why is this bullring different than others? As the geometrically keen may notice, Sevilla’s bullring is not in fact shaped like a circle. Instead, it takes the shape of an oval. Additionally, there is one prized gate in which the matador may exit, but only if he has gained the three “trophies” of his bullfight—two ears and the tail of the bull that he fights. Only when the matador completes this task does he have permission to exit through the ring’s most important gate, which in Sevilla is called Puerta del Principe (Prince’s Gate). The Sevillan Salida a Hombros occurs in the gate directly under the balcony where the royal family is intended to sit—hence the gate’s name. (Does the royal family ever travel south of Madrid to watch a bullfight at Sevilla? Good question. Not really. Apparently, Juan Carlos liked to bring his daughter to the fights, but no precedent has yet been set by his son, Felipe, new king of Spain as of June 2014.)
In addition to the bullring, visitors can view a museum showcasing the bullring’s history, including some of its celebrity bullfighters like Juan Belmonte, Joselito El Gallo, and their very spectacular costumes (silver, gold, silk). Entrance to both the museum and the bullring is by guided tour (you cannot guide yourself), which is offered in both English and Spanish (simultaneously). The tour takes about 40 minutes, but it is quite informative, and frankly, better than you would do on your own. The tours run roughly every 20 minutes, though times do vary. Additionally, should you desire to see a live bullfight, Sevilla’s season runs from Easter Sunday to October 12 and includes around 20-25 fights in total. Prices for the fights vary, with the most expensive tickets costing upwards of €100. These seats will be right at the front, out of the sun, near all the action. Substantially cheaper tickets can be bought for seats across the stadiu.
Tapas €3-8.75. Fish €12. Rice €10. Dessert €6. Open daily Apr-Oct 9:30am-9pm, Nov-Mar 9:30am-7pm.
CATHEDRAL
CATHEDRAL
Av de la Constitución
902 09 96 92
www.facebook.com/maravilaibiza
What’s so special about Sevilla’s Cathedral? A few things. First, it’s the third-largest church in the world and the largest Gothic cathedral in the world. Second, its interior has the largest nave of any other Cathedral in Spain (42 meters high). And third, it’s the burial site of our favorite explorer Christopher Columbus.
get a room!
Find more recommendations over at www.letsgo.com.
THE SEVILLA INN
INN $$
C. Angeles, 11
954 21 95 41
The Sevilla Inn also has a prime location, just steps away from the Cathedral, the Alcázar of Sevilla, and the center of the city. Tucked away in the corner of Calle Ángeles, the hostel may not look like much from the outside, but once you step through its glass doors and up the stairs to its first floor and set of rooms, you’ll realize you’re inside what the owner calls a “typical” Sevillian household, complete with windy staircases, mosaic tiles, and plenty of windows. The kitchen is bright and accommodating, while the rooms are large with extremely comfortable bunk beds and storage lockers. On the first floor, the Inn offers a common room with a television, board games, couches, and outlets, as well as two bathrooms with showers (which surprisingly don’t get too crowded). Walk up the stairs through the kitchen and you’ll find yourself on the next floor. Keep going up, and you have a remarkable terrace, where the hostel offers paella making classes and drinking nights (€1 sangria!).
You’re in for a relaxing and comfortable stay when you book at this backpacker’s hostel. However, given the demand (especially during the summer time), you may be placed in a room (usually a single) in another building near the one that houses Sevilla Inn’s reception. Wi-Fi in these buildings is quite spotty, so feel free to visit the main building for less spotty (though still not the best) Wi-Fi. Storage locks are available for purchase, and unlike many hostels, the reception may not provide you a map of the city right off the bat. Ask for one when you arrive; you’ll be needing it.
Mixed dorms €17-18. Privates €24-29. Reception 24hr. Check out by 11am.
Sevilla’s mammoth cathedral, located in the heart of the city center (actually, it may very well be the heart of the city, since everything seems to revolve around it), was constructed starting in 1402 and finished in a timely 104 years, during 1506. The locals who decided to build this new cathedral are reported to have said during the time “Let us build a church so beautiful and so grand that those who see it finished will think we are mad.”
Maybe they were a bit mad after all. The cathedral has four facades, 15 doors, 80 chapels, 11,520 square meters in total floor space, and the world’s largest altarpiece. Like many Catholic cathedrals of the time, the cathedral was built on the site of a 12th-century Moorish structure, the Almohad Mosque. The cathedral was intended to display Sevilla’s newfound wealth and power after the period of Reconquista. Although the cathedral is built in the gothic style, it still retains a few traces of Moorish influence from the mosque, like the court in which visitors enter (the Patio de los Naranjos) and the then-minaret now-bell tower Giralda.
Alright, alright, cool history, big church we get it. But where are Columbus’s remains? We know that’s all you care about. His tomb is located just off the entrance to the cathedral, on the south side at the Puerta de San Cristóbal. No, this isn’t where he was originally buried, which was in Valladolid, Spain, where he died. His remains were shortly thereafter transferred to Sevilla, and then jumped around a bit (if you can say that about remains). In 1795, they ended up at the Havana Cathedral in Cuba, which Columbus had first encountered in his voyage of 1492. Upheaval from the 1902 Cuban revolution led Spain to transfer his remains to Sevilla, their resting place today. Visit for the history, the architecture, or Columbus. You’re bound to learn a thing or two.
€8, students under 25 €4. Open M 11am-3:30pm, Tu-Sa 11am-5pm, Su 2:30-6pm.
FOOD
BAR ZURBARÁN
TAPAS $
Pl. de Zurbaran
954 22 96 34
Visit Bar Zurbarán for a taste of authentic Spain—warning, not for the faint of heart. This little nook, near Sevilla’s famous “mushroom” structures, yet still hidden from the city’s main touristy avenues, serves up platters of southern Spain’s most famous dishes. Not sure what caracoles are? How about cola de toro? Huevas planchas? Better buy a Spanish dictionary or keep up with Google translate before heading to Zurbarán. (For the uninformed, those menu items are, respectively: snails, oxtail, and grilled frog eggs.) No, the waiters don’t speak very good English, and menus are offered only in Spanish, but that’s a good sign, right? You’ll be hard-pressed to hear anything other than Spanish in this restaurant, in addition to the little plaza it occupies. Plus, tapas prices from €1 just go to show that this place is far from a tourist trap.
Despite the slightly frightening menu items listed, you’ll still be able to find something for your non-adventurous palette. Try some classic croquettas (croquettes, small breadcrumbed dumpling-like tapas, only fried and stuffed with mashed potatoes or cream and Iberian ham), Jamon Iberico, and delicious tomato and olive oil paste with baguettes or other breads. Your satisfaction at this restaurant honestly depends on whether or not you have a dictionary in hand.
Tapas €1-2. Raciones €4-8. Open daily 8am-midnight.
LOS COLONIALES
RESTAURANT $$
Pl. Cristo De Burgos, 19
954 50 11 37
Located in a city that’s full of expensive tourist traps and a central plaza known for these traps, Los Coloniales provides its guests with authentic food and great service, all for a cheap cost. The restaurant has a dimly lit, intimate feel about it, with beautiful mosaic tiling and pots and pans hung up on the walls, just like your mom’s kitchen. Eat inside, at the bar, or at a table (near to which hang large, chunky legs of Iberian ham) and enjoy a fair amount of people watching while savoring large portions of quail egg and chorizo, cheese fritters, or tenderloin with port sauce.
The staff is friendly and well versed in English (it is located in a touristy area, after all), and often the place can get so packed near dinnertime (anywhere from 8pm-10:30pm) that reservations may be necessary for those hoping to beat the crowds. Sip on some delicious white or red wine while watching a fútbol game with some energized fans. If you’re looking for a spot to try some tapas, this is it. Additionally, Los Coloniales is popular among both locals and tourists, so while you’ll have the typical German, British, American crowd, you may also strike up a conversation with a true, born and bred Sevillian (we challenge you to find these in the city center. They’ll be of great use to you later).
€2-15. Open daily 12:30pm-12:15am.
NIGHTLIFE
The city is great for nightlife, but where do you go? Check out Calle Alemeda, near the center of the city, or Los Remedios. Also, during the summer, most locals head to the river or to nearby terraces, so walk in that direction and you’re sure to find something for you.
BABILONIA
CLUB
Av. García Morato
Part indoor-part outdoor, perfect for the summer months. The club Babilonia, one of the hottest in Sevilla, has a beautiful ambiance to it. There are flickering candles that glow in the darkness, tropical palms (fake or real, we don’t actually know) and thick curtains decorating the club, twinkling lights dangling from the trees, and well-dressed patrons. Like its name may suggest, Babilonia feels like a desert oasis (especially given the scorching midsummer Sevillan temperatures). The club has four different bars with plenty of drinks to go around, in addition to a number of plush seating arrangements for even the most relaxed of partygoers. There is a VIP section, coat check, and concierge service for those who desire it.
People say it feels modern, chic, and chill—when you want it to be. But if you’re looking for a “relaxing” night of drinking and bar hopping, you’re better off doing just that—bar hopping. Babilonia is a full-fledged club, opening at 11pm and closing only when the sun rises at 7am. Still, if you get tired after dancing the night away, you do have plenty of seats on which to rest—but only for a minute! Plenty of hookah to go around as well.
How much does it cost? That depends. Do you look nice enough? Do the bouncers like you? Work on those two things, and we’ll get back to you. But seriously, you may find yourself charged anywhere from €10-30 depending on the night, if you are female, or if you’re dressed well enough to suit the posh, Moroccan style of the discoteca. Drinks can also be a little pricy as well, which isn’t too surprising. Better botellón before visiting the club, or else be prepared to break your bank for a night.
Mixed drinks €6-10. Cover varies. Open Th-Sa 11pm-7am in summer.
ESSENTIALS
Practicalities
• TOURIST OFFICES: The city’s main tourist office is located at la plaza del Triunfo, near the Cathedral and the Alcázar. Visit for a map, directions, restaurant recommendations, etc. Its staff speaks a number of languages, including English and French.
• EMERGENCY NUMBERS: 112. Ambulance: 061.
• POLICE: Patio de Banderas: 954 28 95 64.
• PHARMACIES: Most pharmacies follow the typical siesta schedule, opening at regular business hours, taking a break mid afternoon, and reopening until close. If you need to visit one from 2-5pm or after about 8-8:30pm, know that each neighborhood has a rotating system of Farmacia de Guardias. Each pharmacy location at one point or another in each neighborhood of the city takes on the responsibility of being the all-night or all-day pharmacy. Check out the dates and times of these openings on the window of every pharmacy or in a local newspaper.
• MEDICAL SERVICES: Hospital Universitario Virgen del Rocio: Manuel Siurot 955 01 20 00. Hospital Universitario Virgen Macarena: 34 Dr. Fedriani 955 00 80 00.
Getting There
Sevilla is the capital of Andalucia, which means it’s a very well connected city, both within and without. You can get to Sevilla from most parts of Spain by bus, train, or plane, and from Portugal by bus.
By Plane
The San Pablo airport is the region’s main airport and connects with airports throughout Spain and Europe. It’s located six miles outside of the main city, so you’ll need to take a bus or taxi into Sevilla. The airport is relatively small (it only has one terminal) and serves low-cost carriers like Vueling and Ryanair. Taxis outside of the main terminal can take you to the city center for €15-22, and the trip lasts around 15 minutes. Alternatively, the airport offers a busline, Especial Aeropuerto, that runs to and from the airport, stopping at the two bus stations and the train station along the way.
By Train
Sevilla has one train station, Sevilla San Justa, which has AVE long distance and short distance trains to cities like Granada, Malaga, Cordoba, and Madrid. The train station is located on Avenida de Kansas City, and from here travelers can take buses that connect with the city center and the city’s two bus stations. The ticket office is open daily from 8am-10pm and can be reached at 954 53 76 26. Coffee shops and restaurants are also located throughout the station in case you get hungry.
By Bus
Sevilla has two bus stations, la Estación del autobuses Plaza de Armas and the station at Prado de San Sebastián, the latter of which is about a 15-minute walk from the bus station. San Sebastián primarily serves the Andalucia region, like Ronda, Tarifa, Granada, and Cordoba. (954 41 71 11) Plaza de Armas primarily serves cities outside of the Andalucia region and Portugal. (954 90 80 40 or 954 90 77 37) Sevilla buses to and from the city center also connect with these stations. Check www.andalucia.com for more information.
Getting Around
Sevilla is a fairly well connected city that has a taxi, bus, and metro system, in addition to a tram that runs through the city center. Currently, its metro has one line with 22 stops, and runs 11 miles through the city and its metropolitan area. It starts at Ciudad Expo and ends at Olivar Quinto. Alternatively, you can use its city tram (tranvia, Metro Centro), which runs through different spots at the city center. The tram leaves from Plaza Nueva, and follows Avenida de la Constitucion past the Cathedral, stopping at the Archivo de Indias and then at San Fernando (Puerta Jerez), and terminates at the Prado de San Sebastian. It also runs in the opposite direction. Fares cost €1.20.
Sevilla’s buses are the heart and soul of its metro system. The buses cover all neighborhoods in the city and run from around 6am to 11:30pm, with night buses leaving from Prado de San Sebastian from 12am-2am. The city has “circular” buses (C3 and C4) that circle around the city center, while C5 follows a smaller route inside the center. Fares are €1.20. Visit www.tussam.es (in Spanish) for more information.
For travelers who are staying a day, one option for a potentially cheaper fare is one-day card (€4.50) for unlimited travel. Also consider a three-day card (€8.50). If you’re staying for even longer, consider getting a Tarjeta Mulltiviaje, a card for which you pay a refundable €1.50 deposit. You then can pay €6 for 10 journeys without transfer (using more than one line), or €7 for 10 journeys with transfer. You can recharge at kiosks or estancos (tobacco sellers).
You’ve read about it. You’ve seen it in the Wanted’s music video for “Glad you Came.” You can only dream about the party capital of the world, Ibiza, but somehow you’re here and somehow you need to figure it all out, fast—before your money’s gone and your massive hangover’s a little too massive for comfort.
In order to fully experience Ibiza Town, the island’s biggest nightlife hub, you’ll need to bake in the sun all day, party on a few booze cruises, and, at 3am, hit the clubs just as everything’s getting exciting. Expect little sleep and lots of debauchery (you don’t know what goes on in the place until you’ve actually arrived). Look out for free entrance passes on the beach (since a €60 entrance fee will do a little more than break your bank) and bustling bars perfect for a pregame.
But Ibiza Town isn’t just party central. During the daytime, when you’re not lounging on one of the city’s many crystalline beaches, check out the city center, where amidst a labyrinth of narrow, cobbled roads and beautiful white and blue cottages you’ll find a Renaissance-era castle, cathedral, and some incredible ocean views.
It’s a city with many faces, but one thing’s assured: you’re in for a good time.
SIGHTS
CASTLE OF IBIZA
CASTLE
It’s safe to say that when most young people visit Ibiza, touring castles isn’t the first thing on their mind. But if you aren’t too hung over from partying or sunburned from hours spent lying on the beach, hiking up to the city’s historic center is well worth your time. Located in Eivissa, this ancient, fortified city within a city retains traces of Muslim civilization, though the building standing today hails from the 16th century. A gaunt cathedral designed in Gothic style occupies the highest point of Dalt Via. Construction for Ibiza’s cathedral began in the 13th century, and rumor has it that it was built over a mosque. Today, it maintains a trapezoidal bell tower and a polygonal apse with five chapels. Although it’s precariously perched on a steep hill above the Mediterranean Sea, the cathedral isn’t going anywhere any time soon. It’s brusque and concrete, strengthened by large buttresses.
Close to the cathedral are a number of museums, including the Puget museum, which is located in a palace that belonged to the noble Palou de Comasema family and dates back to the 15th century. Also make sure to stop by the Archaeological Museum of Ibiza and Formentera, whose collection includes various odds and ends, like coins, from the Prehistoric age all the way to the Islamic medieval times.
Perhaps the best thing about the “castle” of Dalt Via is the views that it offers. Walk along the fortified walls of this old city and gaze out into the turquoise Mediterranean—a view you’re likely not to forget any time soon, no matter how much partying you’ve done on the island. You can see almost everything from the port to Bossa Beach. The sunbathers. The booze cruises. If you keep wrapping around the castle, you’ll also happen upon some cannons (models, of course) that were used to defend the city against invasion.
FOOD
If you’re coming to Ibiza to party all night long, your wallet—and your stomach—will be feeling pretty empty. Food in the city can be expensive, especially the closer you get to the water, but don’t let that keep you from eating! (Because trust us, in order to survive financially on the island, people sometimes forgo eating for clubbing.)
BIORGANIC
ORGANIC $
Av. Espana, 11
971 39 36 21
If you’re looking for cheap, quick, and healthy good eats for picnics on the beach, try Biorganic, a small cornerstone on Avanida Espana, Eivissa’s main road. With all the great perks of a farmer’s market, like local produce and lots of carrots, and prices that won’t break your bank, this store is the perfect place to load up for a few days. You can cook yourself a meal with garbanzo beans (€2.67) or egg noodles (€2.99) or buy a premade meal like paella (€4.89). Food here is guaranteed to be fresh, bright, and delicious. Fresh fruit and vegetables—finally, you’ve found some! No scurvy for you in Ibiza—produce is stored in wooden crates near the front of the market, while dried goods like organic chips and beans are stored near the back. Mineral water (a must have) is also available cheap; as are juices, yogurts, and other cool summertime treats.
get a room!
Find more recommendations over at www.letsgo.com.
HOSTEL GIRAMUNDO
HOSTEL $$
Carrer de Ramon Muntaner, 55
971 30 76 40
Cheap is a word rarely used in Ibiza. So as far as cheap accommodations go—forget it. You might as well try hiding out in Pacha’s bathrooms for the night.
Kidding, of course. But if you’re hoping to save a buck or two, you’re best off staying at Hostal Giramundo, an open air, party crazy, young adult (not “youth”) hostel located steps away from the beach (which one?). While the hostel doesn’t offer too many social activities and events like some in other cities (but let’s be honest, located in this city, pub crawls are not necessary), Giramundo does offer its guests an awesome desayuno of café con leche, zumo de naranja (orange juice), and a delicious croissant. But it’s not just about the food—the hostel has a full bar, its own restaurant downstairs (which, as you’ll find, will be significantly cheaper than anything else along the beach), outdoor patios, and a third-floor terrace great for pre-gaming for the island’s famous clubs.
Its staff is very knowledgeable about Ibiza Town and can give you advice about how to get into the clubs for a discounted price (walking along the beach midday isn’t a bad idea). The building is colorful, fun, and inviting—but with an open and bright layout come a few drawbacks. Naturally, the place is pretty sandy (it is steps away from the beach, after all). Wi-Fi, though free and available in the common rooms, is spotty at best. Sometimes, it will take an hour to connect to the Internet, if not more. Prepare yourself. Additionally, there is only one shower on each floor. Decision time. Forgo showering for a few days and instead bathe in the ridiculously salty Mediterranean, or battle it out among fellow hostellers. Win-win?
Mixed and female-only rooms €22-33. Privates € 44-55. Reception 24hr. Check out by 11am.
Biorganic also has a smoothie bar near the front of its store, just after the check out line. Mix and match your favorite fruits and vegetables for a refreshing drink that will fuel you for another day on the beach and under the sun. The store is located in the heart of Ibiza Town, just a quick walk from the beach, and as its name entails, you’re guaranteed fresh produce whenever you want it (as long as you visit between the hours of 9am-10pm). Gluten free food is offered as well!
€1-10 for anything you could possibly desire. Open daily 9am-10pm.
CAN FLOW
TAPAS $$
Carrer des Passadis, 8
653 77 24 44
Are you one of those people who likes eating cute bites of fancy-looking food? And you want to be vegan/gluten free/raw/whatever other weird diet you can think of? Ibiza Town has just the place for you! Can Flow (why the name, we don’t know) has healthy, green tapas-sized meals for anyone and everyone, meat-eaters and plant-eaters alike. With bite-sized food comes bite-sized prices too—especially for Ibiza. Prices for meals range from €6-25. Try salmon tartar, veggie burgers, chicken burgers (anything burgers, really), and lots of fish. The plates themselves are so artistically done you may be afraid to eat. But then eat, because the food is fresh, filling, and of course, delicious.
Can Flow’s food is organic and self-described “ecological” too, so your body will thank you after all that… partying during the night. And to add to the great food, you’ll get a casual, laid back atmosphere too. Almost like you’re eating your mom’s best cuisine, all dolled up on a shining white platter, except in Ibiza, where you’ll probably do things at which your mom would cringe. A lot.
Tapas €6. Racions €8-15. Open daily 11am-1:30am.
MAR A VILA
TAPAS $$
Av. Ignasi Wallis, 16
971 31 47 78
www.facebook.com/maravilaibiza
Ah, tapas. The only type of food you can afford in Ibiza Town. Kidding (but are we?). If you’re going to do tapas, might as well do them right. Head over to Mar a Vila, a chic and beautifully decorated restaurant located in the heart of the city’s center. Get your fill of five-star bites, like calamari, anchovy toast, mussels, and even chocolate. Tapas are modern, creative, and come in surprising combinations—peppers stuffed with goat cheese? Pickled mussels? The restaurant’s name does have “mar” in it, after all. They’re bound to have pretty darn good seafood.
For an inexpensive price, you and your friends can dine at the bar, at a table, or in the secret garden-esque, beautiful courtyard, which is decorated white and modestly with hanging plants and simple chairs and tables. It’s refreshing to eat in a budget restaurant that tries hard not to look the best, but actually serve the best food to its guests. Food here is prepared and served artistically—plates are definitely worth a few Instagram posts. We only wish we could sneak back into the kitchen to watch the chefs work their magic.
Since you’ll probably only chow down on a few plates of tapas, you may have room for some dessert. If not, make room. Lick your fingers after sampling some rich chocolate truffles, strawberry ice cream, or red wine compote. In fact, come back another time—just for dessert. Your taste buds will forever thank you.
Tapas €3-8.75. Fish €12. Rice €10. Dessert €6. Open M-F 8:30am-midnight, Sa 11am-4:30pm and 7pm-midnight.
NIGHTLIFE
AMNESIA
CLUB
Ctra. Ibiza a San Antonio, Km 5
971 19 80 41
It’s tough to recommend just one club in Ibiza when the entire island is basically known for one thing and one thing only: partying. But one club everyone seems to rave about is Amnesia (warning: not actually located in Ibiza Town! Sorry folks, it’s over in San Antonio instead). Known for its local, Spanish vibe and crazy ice cannon machine (more on that later), this place is worth remembering. Or not. You know you’re in for a good time when you visit a club called Amnesia.
It’s one of Ibiza’s originals, founded in the 1970s, and most the famous, though perhaps overshadowed in recent pop culture by other giants like Privilege or Pacha. (Though it HAS won a number of “Best Global Club” awards in recent history.) The club was originally founded to accommodate hippies who wanted to “expand their minds” in the mysterious, bohemian island of Ibiza. Nowadays an eclectic mix of people visit the club, but that wanderlust, free-for-all ambience remains. Although the club is no longer open air (sad, we know), it still has two major rooms—a main dance floor and a terrace, the latter of which is only covered by a glass ceiling that you probably won’t even notice at all when partying hard (you may notice it if you’re still standing at daybreak, since sunlight floods the place). The club, currently run by Cream, invites a great mix of DJs to man the club—house music, techno, trance. Like all clubs on the island, Amnesia is “good” on certain day(s)—those days being Sundays and Mondays. Mondays are Cocoon nights (Sven Väth’s big party) and can cost from €40-55. Amnesia is also known for hosting its famous foam party nights on Sundays (hygienic… we think not). Non-Monday/Sunday nights at the club are relatively inexpensive (for Ibiza!), costing around €25-40 depending on the profile of the DJ.
A night at Amnesia is one you’ll never forget! Well…
€25-40, €40-55 on M and Su. Generally open midnight-6am.
ESSENTIALS
Getting There
Ibiza is an island. That means no cars, trains, or buses will ever be able to reach Ibiza (unless man makes some sort of underwater bus, but that’ll probably take a while). You have three options: airplane, ferry, swim. Let’s just count that last one out. Major Spanish airports have direct flights to Ibiza, from cities like Madrid, Barcelona, Valencia, and Sevilla. Vueling, Ryanair, and Iberia are going to be your best bets for airlines. Round-trip prices (unless you’re planning on staying there a while) can range—a lot. Ryanair will always be the cheapest (€90 round trip), but the cost can get as expensive as €400. Ryanair veterans know, cheap comes at a price. Not your greatest airline (first come first serve seating), but once you get to Ibiza you’ll be thanking yourself for saving on plane tickets early on. Flights from Valencia, the closest airport, last around 45min.
Getting Around
Welcome to the land of horrible buses. Well, they’re fine; really, they just don’t run that often or late. Line 10 runs from the airport into Ibiza Town, and back. Other lines cross the island. Check http://ibizabus.com/ibiza/lineas for a comprehensive list of bus schedules and stop locations. The island itself is pretty small, but not small enough to cross by foot in a timely manner (believe us, we’ve tried). Check out the taxi service as well at www.turismoibiza.com/taxi. Rates start at €3.25 and cost anywhere from €0.98-1.65 per km.
Santiago de Compostela is the lively and multicultural capital of Galicia. For Christians, it is famous for being the burial grounds of St. James, one of the 12 apostles of Christ. It is the end destination for many travelers walking the Camino de Santiago (Way of St. James) pilgrimage. Many travel through Great Britain, France, and ultimately Spain to arrive in Santiago, receive their certificates of completion of the pilgrimage, visit the Cathedral of Santiago de Compostela and attend the pilgrims mass. The mass, held weekly on Fridays, serves to celebrate the completion of the journey and honor the spiritual walk that many have completed. Due to the significance of the Camino in Santiago, the town has great respect for the pilgrims, who hail from all around the world. They bring great tourism to the city, whose stone streets and structures are both an idyllic resting place and lively finish line. The town has one of the most beautiful cathedrals in Spain, gorgeous open parks and museums, exciting streets and bars in the evening, and open arms toward all travelers.
SIGHTS
SANTO DOMINGO DE BONAVAL PARK
PARK
Santo Domingo de Bonaval Park is a mid-sized park in Santiago de Compostela located behind the Museum of Galician People, and is one of the top 10 attractions in Santiago de Compostela. However, while it is a nice park, there are much nicer parks in the area, specifically one along Ave de Xoan Carlos I, which is between the USC campus and the city. Regardless, if you’re at the Museum of Galician People, the Santo Domingo de Bonaval Park is worth going to.
The park has many different terraces. On the bottom, closest to the street, you’ll find pretty flowers, large trees with people’s clothes hanging on them to naturally dry, and a stone fountain. As you ascend the park, there are more stone structures (with little to see or do with them) and a large field surrounded by flowers that makes for a good picnic location in the shade. As you continue to rise, you’ll see another field with a path going through it, and a stone wall that separates a second field that overlooks the city. All of these fields are lush, shady, and good places for picnics or a good vantage point. Connected to the second field is is a very pretty multi-colored structure with a tall, lone tree in the middle that encloses another large, open field..
Free. Open in summer daily 8am-11pm, in winter daily 9am-8pm.
BOTAFUMEIRO
RELIGIOUS CEREMONY
Praza do Obradoiro
981 56 93 27
Botafumeiro refers to a religious ceremony held during the pilgrim’s mass in the cathedral of Santiago de Compostela. Literally, the Botafumeiro means “smoke expeller” in Galician. Its famous thurible where incense is burned during mass, weighing over 50 kilos, is 1.6 meters in height. Typically, the Botafumeiro is on exhibition in the cathedral, but during special religious holidays such as Christmas, St. James Day, Three King’s Day, and Easter, it is used for ceremonial purposes.
The Botafumeiro is taken off display and filled with charcoal and incense. It is then tied elaborately to a rope, and then suspended from the middle of the ceiling of the cathedral by a pulley. It is initially pushed, and then eight tiraboleiros pull the ropes and cause it to swing high over the crowds from one side of the cathedral to another. It swings fast and dispenses thick clouds of incense and reaches over 20 meters in height.
It’s expensive for the ceremony to take place, so it is only done once a week to honor the pilgrims, plus special circumstances like the aforementioned holidays. However, if a group is unable to attend the ceremony on one of those days, they can contact the pilgrim center and have a ceremony arranged for a price of €300. It’s one of the greatest attractions in Santiago, and it’s worth attending even if you are not religious. Make sure to come early and get seats on the side, instead of facing the altarpiece.
Free. Occurs F at 7:30pm, but arrive an hour early.
MUSEO DE POBO GALEGO (MUSEUM OF GALICIAN PEOPLE)
MUSEUM
Hotel Bonaval, Rúa de Bonaval
981 58 36 20
El Museo do Pobo Galego, or the Museum of Galician People, is about five minutes northeast from the center of Santiago de Compostela and matches the city’s enormous stone fashion. Upon entering and passing the ticket counter, you will walk through a beautiful lush courtyard in the middle of the entire building. As you continue into the museum, there is series of three grand stone staircases that spiral up towards the different museum exhibitions.
The museum is incredibly large, is well lit with nice wooden floors, and has tons to see. There are several rooms featuring just art, including local paintings, photography from Steffan and Mikael Mörling, religious portraits, portraits of commoners, landscape paintings, a ceramics section, and painted china. There are also lots of cultural exhibitions, including a church recreation, historical shoes and clothing collection, massive boat replicas, a musical instruments archive, bedroom and kitchen displays, and a series of miniature houses from over the centuries. Additionally, there are historic craftsmanship stations, including a loom, cobbling station, horseback riding mantles, and two separate sections for stone smithing and carpentry.
The museum is free to enter on Sundays, but none of the information is available in different languages (just Galician dialect). Once you’re finished, you can grab a meal from one of the restaurants nearby or take a stroll through the park connected in the back of the museum..
General admission €3. Open Tu-Sa 10:30am-2pm and 4pm-7:30pm, Su and holidays 11am-2pm.
FOOD
ENTRE PEDRAS
CAFE $
Rua Hospitalino 18
981564097
www.facebook.com/entre.pedras.veg/info
Entre Pedras is a local vegan cafe located north of the cathedral. The restaurant is very quirky, and on the walls there are paintings of animals eating dinner and playing cards, handmade art hanging from the ceiling, and framed water-color pictures (mostly of nature) lining the building. Basically, it’s a hipster’s paradise. They’ve got Christmas lights up year round, and speakers that play a mix of indie, Spanish music and jazz. It’s relatively small, could fit about 50 patrons, and has one narrow bar extending through the middle of it.
The menu is incredibly cheap and even more brief. The first page is drinks, including different types of coffees, juices, and infusions. All of the options are natural, and they’re all less than about €2.50. The second and final page are the meal options, which are also limited. The food includes veggie or tofu burgers, tostas, bocatas, and patacas bravas con aioli. All of these options are under €4. The food portions are large for the price you pay, and very savory. Moreover, the bar has local wines, beers, and any cocktails you desire.
For more recommendations, visit www.letsgo.com.
CASA FELISA
HOSTEL $$
Porta da Pena, 5
981 58 26 02
Casa Felisa is located northwest of the city center and cathedral on a street packed with restaurants and hostels. The hostel is well favored by the internet travel community, as well as the hostel’s garden restaurant downstairs, which has received exceptional reviews and serves a delectable grilled octopus (pulpo a la plancha). Unless you have a swipe card, you’ll have to enter the hostel through the restaurant and be checked in at the indoor bar seating. The hostel operators have a friendly and old golden retriever whom you might run into, and the lobby is clean and has free maps of the town that feature recommended attractions.
Casa Felisa has three floors, with shared bathrooms on each level for the hostel guests. The rooms vary by size, and some have several beds whereas the large privates typically just have one large bed. In the rooms there are desks, a closet space for towels and extra bed sheets, a safe to keep some belongings, and some of the rooms have a window that opens out to the street. Rooms that are situated against the street are obviously louder than rooms that face away from it because the hostel’s walls are relatively thin. So much for sleep! Lol jk—if you are a very light sleeper, then this may be a problem, but otherwise the sound is not too bad since the streets clear out pretty soon in the evening.
The bathrooms are cleaned daily and have a towel basket, sink, toilet, and large shower. The facilities are, for the most part, clean, but you may find some cobwebs hanging in the corner of the ceiling above the shower. However, the service staff are very friendly and would assist you with any concerns about cleanliness. Nobody’s trying to get sued here. The hostel has free Wi-Fi, but you need to request the password in order to receive it, and sometimes you may face limited connectivity issues.
Privates €25. Doubles €45. Reception 24hr.
Entre Pedras is cheap and delicious—’nough said. The restaurant is open for dinner, so make sure to swing by (even if just for a juice), especially if you’re staying at one of the many nearby hostels.
€5 or less. Open daily 7:30pm-2:30am.
CAFE CASINO
CAFE $
Rúa do Vilar, 35
981 57 75 03
Café Casino is located on Rua do Vilar, a popular tourist street in front of the cathedral. The restaurant has a limited outdoor seating, but the inside is spacious and decorated in a classic, regal fashion. There are elaborate light fixtures hanging from the high, crown-molded ceilings, as well as ornate wooden wall panels that have framed watercolor pictures hanging from them, all of which are for sale. There’s a combination of wooden seats and cushioned armchairs against the wall. Further back, towards the bar and pastry section of the cafe, are high top glass tables with leather chairs. The restaurant is huge, and could hold over 100 people easily. In the center of the dining room is a grand piano. You’ll find a projector screen on the back wall and elegant mirrors along the side walls, above the wooden panels.
Café Casino has very extensive drink options, including coffees, infusions, chocolate drinks, and a large variety of alcoholic beverages. They serve breakfast, lunch, and dinner, and, in addition to classic options like eggs and bacon and hamburgers, they serve local delicacies such as octopus, and traditional Spanish appetizers and salads. Finally, they also serve great gelato at the front entrance.
While the restaurant is a bit pricier than other options around, the ambience, service, and food quality more than justify the price. It’s a great, all-purpose restaurant for whatever time of the day you visit. The only downside is that there is no free public Wi-Fi.
Appetizers €6. Meals €10. Open daily 9am–1am.
O PARIS
CAFE $
Rúa dos Bautizados, 11
981 57 18 64
https://es-es.facebook.com/oparisdc
O Paris is a French cafe and a local favorite. It’s located just outside of Toural Square, towards the park and University of Santiago de Compostela (USC) campus. They generally attract a younger crowd, and have an extensive menu and large bar. The restaurant has a few outdoor tables on a patio under protection from the rain. They’re bar has plenty of seating, with four tables along the wall, a few in the open space in the middle of the restaurant, and extra seating in the back for those who wish to get larger meals from the menu instead of just tapas and drinks.
O Paris serves a combination of French, Spanish, and American food. They have delicious hamburgers of many different varieties, salads, tostas, fish options, bar food such as chicken fingers, and a menu del dia, which includes a starter, entree, bread, drink, and dessert for only €12. The restaurant has modern decorations, and the kitchen has open windows that you can see into from next to the bar. The bathrooms are clean, and they’ve got free Wi-Fi if you ask one of the waiters or bartenders for a password. If you’re looking for a solid brunch, light dinner, or quick drink, O Paris certainly hits the spot.
Appetizers €4. Entrees €10. Open M-F 10am-1am, Sa 10am-2:30am.
NIGHTLIFE
BAR ALBAROQUE
BAR
Pl. Cervantes
Bar Albaroque is located in Plaza Cervantes directly across from Cervantes, the vinoteca. They’re a small place that functions as a cafe during the day, bar in the early evening, and dance club at night. Inside, they have a small seating area around a long bar that curves around to the back of the room. At the end of the bar is access to another room, which has tables for meals and another television for watching sports. The main room is simply decorated in wooden sports bar fashion. There’s a large television that is across from the bar, and close to the entrance is the kitchen, which has a few tables in front of it.
In the evenings, the bar staff clear out all of the tables and chairs and turn the area into a dance floor. By midnight, mostly everything is cleared out but there usually is no crowd yet, aside from the people who were there for meals and have chosen to stay into the evening. The party usually gets started around 1am. Typically, the crowd tends to be a younger demographic and the bar attracts many students from the local university.
Drinks €2-5. Open M-Sa midnight-2am.
HAWAII’S EDER
BAR
Rúa do Vilar, 47
981 556 452
Hawaii’s Eder is a sports bar in the heart of Santiago, next to Praza de Praterias. It’s decorated with Hawaiian everything. Surfboards on the walls next to framed pictures of the beach, wooden tables with Palm tree paintings in them, lights with tribal waves across them, a giant shark hanging over the entrance next to the bar, statues of Hawaiian women in bathing suits with leis around their neck, and a giant mural of a volcano in between the two flat screen televisions. When you enter, there’s a very large bar with smaller TVs overhead, and in the back of the restaurant are the tables with menus next to the napkins. The menus are in a variety of different languages, and they serve typical bar food, appetizers, ice cream, and drinks for all under €8. The place is filled with tourists and pilgrims during sporting events, but unless it’s a major match then the bar isn’t too densely populated.
It’s the perfect place to grab a beer and watch a match before heading out to a club or bar hopping for the evening. The service is exceptionally friendly, but can be slow if the bar is very populated. Hawaii’s Eder has free Wi-Fi. You know the drill, all you have to do is ask a waiter for the password. Finally, when you order a beer, you’ll be given complementary chips and olives on the side.
Appetizers €4. Entrees €8. Beer €2. Open M-Sa midnight-2am.
ESSENTIALS
Practicalities
• TOURIST OFFICE: Oficina Municipal de Turismo has maps and thorough information on accommodations as well as a 24hr. interactive information screen outside. (R. Vilar, 63 98 155 51 29 www.santiagoturismo.com On R. Vilar 1 block toward Cathedral from Pr. Toural. English, French, German, Portuguese, Italian, Galician, and other languages spoken. Open daily 9am-9pm.) Oficina de Turismo de Galicia has information on the rest of Galicia, and on festivals. (R. Vilar, 30 98 158 40 81 www.turgalicia.es On R. Vilar between Pr. Toural and Cathedral, on opposite side of street from Municipal Tourism Office but closer to Cathedral. Open M-F 10am-8pm, Sa 11am-2pm and 5-7pm, Su 11am-2pm.) Oficina del Xacobeo, in the same building, provides information on the Camino de Santiago. (R. Vilar, 30 98 158 40 81 Open M-F 10am-8pm.)
• CURRENCY EXCHANGE: Banco Santander has Western Union services and a 24hr. ATM outside, and cashes American Express Travelers Cheques commission-free. (Pl. Galicia, 1 98 158 61 11 On right side of Pl. Galicia with your back to the old town. Open Apr-Sept M-F 8:30am-2pm; Oct-Mar Sa 8:30am-1pm.)
• INTERNET ACCESS: Ciber Nova 50 has fast computers and pay phones. (R. Nova, 50 98 156 41 33 On R. Nova 1 block toward the Cathedral from Pr. Toural. €0.45 for 12min., €2 per hr. Open M-F 9am-midnight, Sa-Su 10am-11pm.)
• ENGLISH-LANGUAGE BOOKS: Libraria Couceiro has several shelves of books in English. (Pr. Cervantes, 6 98 156 58 12 From Pl. Galicia, take R. Orfas into old city; it becomes R. Caldeirería, then R. Preguntoiro, and the bookstore is immediately to the left on Pr. Cervantes. Open M-F 10am-noon and 4-9pm, Sa 10am-noon and 5-9pm.)
• POST OFFICE: Correos has a Lista de Correos and fax. (R. Orfas 98 158 12 52 www.correos.es Take Cantón do Toural from Pr. Toural 2 blocks to R. Orfas. Open M-F 8:30am-8:30pm, Sa 9am-2pm.)
Emergency
• POLICE: Policía Local. (Pr. Obradoiro, 1 98 154 23 23 On Pr. Obradoiro across from Cathedral.)
• MEDICAL SERVICES: Hospital Clínico Universitario has a public clinic across from the emergency room. (Tr. Choupana 98 195 00 00 Take bus #1 from R. Senra toward Hospital Clínico. Clinic open M-Sa 3-8pm, Su 8am-8pm.)
• PHARMACY: Farmacia R. Bescansa has been around since 1843—stop in to gawk at the classic 19th-century decor, even if you don’t need anything. (Pl. Toural, 11 98 158 59 40.)
Getting There
By Bus
ALSA (91 327 05 40 www.alsa.es) runs buses from: Astorga (€21-25 5hr., 4 per day 4:15am-7:30pm); Barcelona (€72-86 17hr., 3 per day 10am-10:50pm); Bilbao (€49 9-11hr., 4 per day 10:30am-1:45am); Burgos (€40 8½hr., daily at 1:15pm); León (€28 6hr., daily at 4:45pm); Madrid (€44-64 8-9hr.; M-Th 5 per day 7:30am-12:30am, F-Sa 4 per day 7:30am-12:30am); Salamanca (€26-31 6-7hr.; M-F 3pm and 1:10am, Sa 5pm and 1:10am, Su 3pm and 1:10am).
By Train
RENFE (www.renfe.es) trains arrive from: A Coruña (€7-15 40min.; M-F 20 per day 5:35am-10:15pm, Sa 18 per day 6:55am-9:55pm, Su 17 per day 6:55am-9:55pm); Bilbao (€48 11hr., daily at 9:15am); Burgos (€42 8hr., 2 per day at 12:12 and 3:25pm.); Madrid (€47-53 7-9hr. 3 per day 3-10:30pm).
By Plane
Ryanair (www.ryanair.com) has flights to Santiago’s Lavacolla Airport (SCQ; 30min. bus from bus station or city center) from: Alicante, Barcelona (El Prat), Madrid, Málaga, Reus, Frankfurt (Hahn), London (Stansted), and Rome. Iberia (www.iberia.es) flies to Santiago from Bilbao, Sevilla, and Valencia.
Getting Around
Most of the old city is closed off to all but foot traffic, so the easiest way to get around is to walk. For those venturing farther afield, buses (€1, with bono €0.55) are a good way to get around, though not particularly frequent on weekends. Bus #2 and 5 go to the bus station; bus #6 goes to the train station. Freire (98 158 81 11) runs buses (€3 30min.) from R. Doutor Teixeiro and the bus station to the airport. There are taxi stands at the bus and train stations and at Pl. Galicia and Pr. Roxa. Otherwise, call Radio Taxi (98 156 92 92) or Eurotaxi (67 053 51 54).
MONEY
Tipping and Bargaining
Native Spaniards rarely tip more than their spare change, even at expensive restaurants. If you make it clear that you’re a tourist—especially an American—they might expect you to tip more. Don’t feel like you have to tip, as the servers’ pay is almost never based on tips.
Bargaining is common and necessary in open-air and street markets. If you are buying a number of things, like produce, you can probably get a better deal if you haggle. Do not barter in malls or established shops.
Taxes
Spain has a 10% value added tax (IVA) on all means and accommodations. The prices listed in Let’s Go include IVA unless otherwise mentioned. Retail goods bear a much higher 21% IVA, although the listed prices generally include this tax. Non-EU citizens who have stayed in the EU fewer than 180 days can claim back the tax paid on purchases at the airport. Ask the shop where you have made the purchase to supply you with a tax return form, but stores will only provide them for purchases of around €50-100. Due to the economic crises sweeping Europe, don’t be surprised if Spain increases its VAT even more.
SAFETY AND HEALTH
Local Laws and Police
Travelers are not likely to break major laws unintentionally while visiting Spain. You can contact your embassy if arrested, although they often cannot do much to assist you beyond finding legal counsel. You should feel comfortable approaching the police, although few officers speak English. There are several types of police in Spain. The policía nacional wear blue or black uniforms and white shirts; they guard government buildings, protect dignitaries, and deal with criminal investigations (including theft). The policía local wear blue uniforms, deal more with local issues, and report to the mayor or town hall in each municipality. The guardia civil wear olive-green uniforms and are responsible for issues more relevant to travelers: customs, crowd control, and national security. Catalonia also has its own police force, the Mossos d’Esquadra. Officers generally wear blue and occasionally sport berets or other interesting headgear. This police force is often used for crowd control and deals with riots.
Drugs and Alcohol
Recreational drugs are illegal in Spain, and police take these laws seriously. The legal drinking age is 16 in Asturias and 18 elsewhere. In Asturias, however, it is still illegal for stores to sell alcohol to those under age 18. Spain has the highest road mortality rates in Europe, and one of the highest rates of drunk driving deaths in Europe. Recently, Spanish officials have started setting up checkpoints on roads to test drivers’ blood alcohol levels. Do not drive while intoxicated and be cautious on the road.
Terrorism
Until very recently, Basque terrorism was a serious concern for all travelers in Spain. A militant wing of Basque separatists called the Euskadi Ta Askatasuna (ETA; Basque Homeland and Freedom) continued to have an active presence well into the 2000s, but has recently taken a more dormant stance. Historically, ETA’s attacks have been politically targeted and were not considered random terrorist attacks that endanger regular civilians. In January 2011, ETA declared a “permanent and general cease-fire,” and at this point, many of ETA’s leaders have been arrested. The group has also announced a “definitive cessation of its armed activity.”
LANGUAGE
There are four main languages spoken in Spain, along with a slew of less widely spoken ones. Here are the ones you’re likely to come across.
Spanish/Castellano
Castilian or Spanish is the official language of Spain. Spain’s Spanish is distinct from its Western Hemisphere counterparts in its hallmark lisp of the z and soft c and its use of the vosotros form (second-person plural).
Catalan/Valenciancatalà/Valencià
Along the Mediterranean coast from Alicante up to the French border, the main language spoken is Catalan, along with its close relative Valencian. Throughout the regions of Catalonia, Valencia, and the Balearic Islands, as well as parts of Aragon, this Romance language sounds to most ears like a combination of Spanish, Italian, and French. It’s also the official language of the small principality of Andorra. Never imply that Catalan is a dialect of Spanish—this is untrue and will turn the entire nation of Andorra against you.
STUDY
For the adventurous yet studious traveler, Spain offers plenty. You can indulge your nerdy side amid medieval buildings, Gaudí masterpieces, or arid mountains.
• UNIVERSIDAD DE SALAMANCA: A must-see for tourists, the Universidad de Salamanca outstrips Harvard in age and Oxford in beauty. An ideal study abroad destination, the oldest university in Spain can also boast of world-class faculty and a robust college town. (34 923 294 400 informacion@usal.es)
• UNIVERSITAT DE BARCELONA: Barcelona has it all: medieval buildings, Roman ruins, modern art museums, chic boutiques, hot nightclubs, and, according to several ranking agencies, the best university in Spain to boot. Indeed, the city that gave us Razzmatazz is also home to high-level academics. (34 934 02 17 79 entorns.web@ub.edu)
• SUNSEED DESERT TECHNOLOGY: Spain might be obsessed with La Roja, but that doesn’t mean you have to give up your green to visit. Enjoy the Spanish countryside while conducting a long-term (five weeks or more) research project at this educational non-profit, which seeks to “develop, demonstrate, and communicate low-tech methods of living sustainably in a semi-arid environment.” (34 950 525 770 sunseed@sunseed.org.uk)
• ESADE BUSINESS SCHOOL: If the corporate world beckons you, think about spending some time at ESADE Business School in Barcelona; in recent years, The Wall Street Journal has ranked it first on its list because of the school’s rep with recruiters. (34 91 359 77 14)
• IESE BUSINESS SCHOOL: At IESE, you can schmooze with Europe’s future business leaders by day and party with soccer-obsessed locals by night (work hard, party hard, right?). Unlike its competitor, ESADE, which is situated in the cosmopolitan city of Barcelona, the world-renowned IESE Business School lies in a more traditionally Spanish area—namely, Navarre, the home of the Pamplona bull run. (34 932 53 42 00 mbainfo@iese.edu)
VOLUNTEER
Even if your Spanish skills are not up to snuff, you still have the chance to polish your halo abroad. Spaniards are looking for native English speakers to immerse them in the language and help them hone their skills.
• VAUGHANTOWN: Volunteering goes upscale with VaughanTown, the week-long, English immersion program that caters mainly to Spanish businessmen. Vaughan Town has several sites in the bucolic landscape of Central Spain and provides airfare, meals, and four-star accommodations (meaning bathrooms with jacuzzis) for English-speaking volunteers. (34 902 68 66 64)
• ESTACIÓN INGLESA: A little wary about the time commitment involved in these English-immersion programs? Estación Inglesa is a week-long, English immersion program with a more relaxed schedule, meaning that volunteers have time to explore the local town or relax on the beach. (34 968 113 555 anglos@estacioninglesa.es)
• MY FAMILY ABROAD: With the My Family Abroad program, you’ll pay your way to Spain and then enjoy free room and board with a Spanish family living in Madrid; your job is to talk in English with them for at least 15hr. a week. (info@myfamilyabroad.com)
• SUNSEED DESERT TECHNOLOGY: Sunseed Desert Technology accommodates volunteers who are staying between two and five weeks. You’ll be in the countryside of southern Spain, analyzing irrigation lines, herb preservation, and waste water management while taking in beautiful mountain views of Los Molinos de Rios Aguas—we dare say, it’s a lovely way to address an inconvenient truth. (34 950 525 770 sunseed@sunseed.org.uk)
WORK
Luckily for the cash-strapped traveler, these islands have plenty of seasonal, hotel entertainment” jobs that are open to English-speakers who know at least one other European language.
• ACTTIV: Becoming a hotel “entertainer” with a company like Acttiv is a way to visit these sites and leave Spain with a net gain in money. (34 914 324 363 www.acttiv.net)
• EUROTUTORS: Teaching English can earn you not only brownie points but also hard cash. EuroTutors is a Valencia-based tutoring company that pays it TEFL teachers to teach individuals or small groups of students. (info@eurotutors.co.uk)
• STEM ENGLISH: Stem English is also looking for TEFL teachers, but their credential requirements are a bit tougher than EuroTutors; they ask for tutors with more extensive teaching experience. (info@stemenglish.com)
• DIVE AND SEA TENERIFE: For Spain-bound travelers, the Canary Islands offer some of Europe’s best waters for warm water scuba diving, and the Dive and Sea Tenerife in the Canary Islands is often looking to fill diving instructor positions. (phil@diveandseatenerife.com)
Basque looks extraterrestrial—full of z’s, x’s, and k’s—but the Basques don’t care how pretty their language looks; they just care about preserving it. After decades of concerted efforts by Franco to wipe euskara out, it is still the official language of about 600,000 people, though you won’t need to know a word of it to get by in País Vasco’s main cities.
Galician/Galego
Somewhere between Spanish and Portuguese falls Galician, spoken in Galicia, in the northwest corner of the peninsula. As with Basque, you won’t need your Spanish-Galician dictionary to get by, though it’ll probably help with most menus.
Other Languages
In the British territory of Gibraltar, English is spoken, of course, though the locals also speak a creole known as Llanito. Languages you’re less likely to come across in your travels include Asturian, spoken along parts of the northern coast; Leonese, in the area around Astorga; Extremaduran, in Extremadura; Aranese, in the valley around Vielha; Aragonese, in the mountains of Aragon north of Huesca; and Caló, spoken by the Romanior gypsy community across Spain.