0284 225 1120TURKISH ISLAMIC ARTS MUSEUM & EDIRNE ARCHAEOLOGY MUSEUM
MUSEUM
Zehrimar Cami Sok. & Kadirpaşa Mektop Sok. 7
0284 225 1120
The Turkish Islamic Arts Museum and its baby sibling across the street, the Edirne Archaeology Museum, are sort of endearing in an A-for-effort way. But despite Edirne’s best efforts to spice up their cultural exhibits, they can’t help but pale in comparison to their grander counterparts in Istanbul. Still, you might want to visit the former to just to walk through the madrasa (Islamic school) building it used to be and duck into rooms on Turkish calligraphy, weaponry, woodwork, tilework, ceramics, Ottoman-era clothing, weaving, cuisine, and circumcision feasts. The Archaeology Museum is a tiny thing with a sparse collection of fossils, coins, and statues from Thrace’s Roman, Byzantine, and Ottoman past. We can’t really see why you’d want to spend 30min. of your time here (because that’s how long the whole thing will take), but maybe you’re that person who feels museum guilt and just can’t pass by.
The Edirne Archaeology Museum is across the street from the back of the Suliyemi Mosque. Look for the white building with MÜZE on it, behind an outdoor exhibit of Ottoman tombstones. The Turkish Islamic Arts Museum can be entered from the back of the Suliyemi Mosque, where the Turkish flag is. Adults and students 3 TL, foreign children under age 12 and Turkish children under 17 free. 
Open Apr-Sept Tu-Su 8:30am-7pm; Oct-Mar Tu-Su 8:30am-5:30pm.
PALACE RUINS (SARAY ATIK) & JUSTICE TOWER (ADALET KASRI)
RUINS
Kanuni & Kırkpınar Sahası, Sarayiçi
Once upon a time, in 1451 to be precise, there was a magnificent Ottoman palace that rivaled Istanbul’s Topkapı Palace in its scale and grandeur. It remained in use for centuries, withstanding events, including Mehmed IV’s circumcision feast, the Ottoman-Russo Wars, and the Balkan Wars, before being destroyed by war and decay. It’s hard to look at the pile of crumbling, graffitied, cigarette butt-covered rocks and bricks—all that remains of the palace today—and imagine an imperial lodge housing 40,000 people. The Justice Tower (Adalet Kasrı) that stands guard just in front of the ruins also used to be cool. It had two stones, the Seng-i Hürmet (Stone of Respect), where people would leave pleas for the Sultan, and the Seng-i İbret (Stone of Warning), which held the rotting heads of those who had pissed him off. This, too, is now just a plain stone thing with no sign of its royal origins. In conclusion, historical value is important, but really, really, really don’t come out here unless you’ve had a fight with your significant other back at the hotel and you’re in desperate need of a rural walk or you want to see what Ottoman ruins look like after centuries of neglect.
It’s an easy 30min. walk to Sarayiçi, the site of the ruins and Kırkpınar (the annual Oil Wrestling Festival), from the city center. From Saraçlar Cad., walk north all the way up to the end of Hükümet Cad. When the road forks, take the right fork and follow the road as it turns into Tekkekagpı Cad. At the intersection with Saray Yolu, turn left and walk straight until you cross the bridge. Keep going straight, past the Kırkpınar Stadium, until you get to the Justice Tower. The ruins are right behind the tower, across a small footbridge. Free. Open 24hr.
FOOD
Far from the touristy razzle dazzle of Istanbul, it’s easy to play the local and eat super cheap in Edirne. Don’t leave without trying ciğer tava, the traditional, deep-fried lamb liver specialty—though in doing so, you might just leave your stomach behind in Edirne.
MELEK ANNE
VEGETARIAN $$
Maarif Cad. 18
0284 213 3263
Melek Anne’s is the place to go when you’re hungry for homemade food and maternal warmth. There’s no menu; instead, you’ll find a constantly changing set of dishes made daily. All you have to do is nod or shake your head when the lady asks, “Vegetarian?” The huge plates you’ll get in either case are a mix of a little bit of everything, from yogurt with pickles, green beans in olive oil, and rice-stuffed leaves (for veggies) to breaded chicken and spicy potatoes with ground beef (for meat eaters). With all the students, little kids, and neighborhood women chowing down around you, it’ll sort of feel like being transported back in time to when you were a child raised in a little Turkish village—even if you weren’t.
From the southern end of Saraçlar Cad., walk north, turn left onto Balık Pazarı Cad., and walk until you see Polis Parkı to the right. Turn right at the Parkı, then walk down Maarif Cad. until you see Melek Anne on the left, with a red sign. Mixed plate 15 TL. Vegetarian plate 10 TL. Mantı (Turkish dumplings) 10 TL. Çig börek (stuffed bread) 8 TL. Gözleme (Turkish griddle pastry) 5 TL. Open daily 8am-11pm.
NEDO DONDURMASI
ICE CREAM $
Saraçlar Cad. 116
0545 360 3555
Tucked into a tiny niche on the main street—and it’s really more of a single wooden window popping into view like Grimmauld Place if you’re looking for it (and believe us, after a taste, you’ll look for it)—is the best ice cream stop in town. Creamy, fruity fresh, and oddly thick like gelato, the generous scoops come in a hot waffle cone and only cost 1 TL per scoop. Try the dangerous duo of böğürtlen (blackberry) and limon or their dirt-cheap, paper-cup Turkish coffee (1 TL). You’ll soon find its central location on Saraçlar Cad. far too convenient for your figure.
Walk north up Sarçlar Cad., and look to the left before you hit London Café and the big fountain of the couple holding hands. Dondurma (ice cream) 1 TL per scoop, 17 TL per kg. Turkish coffee 1 TL. Toast 1.50-4 TL. Open daily 9am-11pm.
UNNAMED KÖFTE CART (DOCTORUN YERI)
KÖFTE $
Balık Pazarı Cad. 2-3 (approximate location)
0284 225 4247
You know how excited you were about those 5 TL fish sandwiches on Galata Bridge back in the ‘Bul? Well, 235km west of the Golden Horn and in the middle of rural Edirne are even bigger fish sandwiches for 3 TL! Take it to go or sit down to eat the same meal at one of the tiny tables for 10 TL. (Hint: when there aren’t a ton of people around, you can sit andeat for 3 TL. Mind. Blown.) Just vigorously wave three fingers to sign that you want the best deal around, and you’ll get a fresh fish filet popping with oil from the grill, lettuce, and a slice of lemon inside a baguette, along with a complimentary can of kola.
You (along with every huge street dog in Edirne) won’t be able to ignore the mouthwatering wafts of fatty meat sizzling on the grill of this tiny, white, late-night köfte cart. Point at the various bits of meat questioningly, and Yeri (the neat, bespectacled little man running the operation) will let you try juicy, tongue-burningly hot samples of each on toothpicks. He’ll also point to various parts of his own body while you do this, letting you know that you’re currently chewing on an animal’s throat, kidney, heart, liver, or thymus. After the exotics, go for the standard köfte sandwich for an awesome late-night snack.
From the south end of Saraçlar Cad., walk north, take a left at Balık Pazarı Cad., and look for the little white cart with windows and a red sign. All meat sandwiches 5 TL and wrapped to go. Cash only. Open daily 8pm-2am.
AYDIN TAVA CIĞER
CİĞER TAVA $
Tahmis Carşısı 12
0284 274 6466
There’s the kind of peer pressure that you face in middle school, and then there’s the kind of peer pressure you face in Edirne to try deep-fried lamb liver. But all the old men are doing it! The best place to lose your lamb liver virginity is Aydin Tava Ciğer, a well-oiled operation nearly always bursting with people. For the full experience, get a front row seat near the refrigerators, where you’ll see the droopy, gooey raw liver being scooped by hand out of a big metal bowl full of guts, rolled around in flour, then deep-fried in a vat of boiling vegetable oil. Let’s Gorecommends liberal amounts of lemon juice and pepper flakes to combat the rich, pungent, gland-ness of it all.
From the south end of Saraçlar Cad., walk north, turn right onto Çilingir Cad. and follow it north until the fountain of the sitting man, then take the left fork onto Mufakathane Sok. Aydin is on the left. Ciğer, köfte, dürum (kebab wrap), tavukis (skewered chicken kebabs) all 10 TL. Cash only. Open daily 8am-8pm.
LALEZAR RESTAURANT
TRADITIONAL $$
Tahmis Carşısı 12
0284 274 6466
Lalezar’s riverside restaurant is the most beautiful place to watch the sunset in Edirne over a generic dinner. You’ll watch the flocks of birds span out over the fire reflected in the water, and it’s so enchanting, you wouldn’t be surprised to see a herd of elephants emerge from the forests. It’s the kind of place where the townfolk hold fancy wedding receptions or prom parties—the place is the size of an urban park and tightly hugs (or hogs) the wide Meriç Nehri river. The perfectionist landscaping, with rows of lights and curving walkways through the green, makes the stroll back home pretty and the mediocre meal you’ve had forgivable.
From Saraçlar Cad., walk south all the way through the city center, then turn left and follow the road as it turns into Lozan Cad. Cross 2 bridges; after the 2nd bridge, turn right and walk along the river. You’ll see Lalazar to the right. Salads 5-7.50 TL. Pides 10-13 TL. Kebabs 14-19 TL. Entrees 12-22 TL. Çay 2 TL. Coffee 5 TL. Open daily 8am-11pm.
NIGHTLIFE
If you’re thirsty in Edirne, you’re going to have to cross some rivers. Even then, there are only a handful of places for young folk to go get drunk and dirty, and the clubs are pretty kitschy. A real warning from Let’s Go: If you are inebriated and walking back to town, it’s altogether too possible to tip over the low wall that bounds the two bridges and fall into the shallow river, or step off the incredibly narrow “pedestrian” margin of the bridges and into the path of the incoming cars in the dark. If all this isn’t worth the trouble, try the few generic old-man pubs on the southern end of Saraçlar Caddesi.
CAFÉ SERA
CAFE
Selimiye Önü, Edirne
0284 212 4430
Some historians say Edirne has been the most fought-over spot on the globe, what with over 16 major battles in its long history, so we have no idea how Café Sera managed to score sprawl-space all over the sweetest spot in town: smack in the middle of Selimiye Mosque and Eski Mosque. For such prime real estate, though, the cafe’s çay (1-2 TL) and coffee (3 TL) are pleasantly cheap. At night, this lovely courtyard cafe becomes a fishing nest for both locals and tourists drawn to the spectacularly lit mosques that surround it. Just don’t expect to drink any brews other than tea—as one old man laughed, “This cafe is stuck between two big mosques! No alcohol!”
From Saraçlar Cad., walk north and turn right at the intersection with Talat Paşa Cad. Walk straight until you see Selimiye Mosque. The cafe is right in front of the mosque steps. Free Wi-Fi. Tea 1-2 TL. Turkish coffee 3 TL. Burgers 4-4.50 TL. Open daily 8am-2am.
SUMMER POINT
CLUB
Lozan Cad. 1, Edirne
0532 695 8623
This brand spanking new baby of a nightclub (opened in summer 2013) proudly presents a dance floor on a wooden deck under a huge white tent, complete with a gaudy chandelier and a small pool that people aren’t “allowed” in. Everything throbs with the beat of some seriously angsty Turkish pop and American club music. Considering the fact that anything outside the city center is basically a cow town, it’s hard to stop blinking in surprise at the sudden strobe lights, but don’t scoff in front of the small-town university students who pour in every weekend to dance their asses off.
From Saraçlar Cad., walk south all the way through the city center, then turn left and follow the road as it turns into Lozan Cad. Cross 2 bridges. As soon as you cross the 2nd bridge, look straight across the road, past the small amusement park, or follow the club music. Cover 12 TL for men. Beer 10 TL. 2 tequila shots 10 TL. 2 whiskey shots 25 TL. 2 vodka shots 25 TL. Open F-Sa 11pm-3am. Private reservations on weekdays.
GARDEN BAR
CLUB, VENUE
Yolu Üzeri, Edirne
0284 213 6702
This little club—housed under a canopy of climbing plants, with a disco ball hanging in the center like a huge, pregnant silver fruit—lives up to its claim that “Turks don’t sleep” by staying open religiously until 5am (4am on Sundays) despite its rural location. If you walk out of here at closing time, you could probably see the foals frolicking and chasing ducks in the field right across from the club. A dance club on weekdays and a venue for live music and group singing on weekends, Garden Bar is a popular spot with both the townsfolk and local college kids.
From Saraçlar Cad., walk south all the way through the city center, then turn left and follow the road as it turns into Lozan Cad. Cross the 1st bridge, then turn right and walk straight. Garden Bar is on the right. Males should come with females on weekends to enter. Beer 7.50 TL. Vodka cocktails 15 TL. Energy drink cocktails 15 TL. Whiskey 25 TL. Open M-Sa 9pm-5am, Su 9pm-4am. Party usually starts at 11pm. DJ starts at 1am M-Sa.
ARTS AND CULTURE
KIRKPINAR: EDIRNE ANNUAL OIL WRESTLING FESTIVAL
FESTIVAL, TOURNAMENT
Edirne Sarayiçi, Kırkpınar Sahası
0284 213 9208 (tourism office)
What if we were to tell you there is a place where, once a year, every year, hundreds of the strongest, healthiest, most muscular, tanned, ambitious young men from all over Turkey gather to strip down to their black cut-off pants, soak themselves in olive oil, and then proceed to wrestle each other under the baking sun while thousands watch for three days? This is Kırkpınar. This exists. And it exists in the inconspicuous little town of Edirne. If you happen to be even remotely in the area in the last week of June or the first week of July (check in advance with the tourist information office), this is a raw, primal, dignified, trance-like experience that will be impressed into your body and physical memory such that you will never forget the power, the drums, the smell of sweat and sun—essentially, if you have a life and you don’t include this in it, we will pity you.
Kırkpınar, or the annual oil wrestling festival, is one of the oldest officiated sports in the world—officially begun in the 14th century in Thrace, it used to be a way for the Ottoman sultans to recruit their armed forces (only the champions were eligible to join the elite of the elite in the Janissary Corps). Today’s wrestling ritual is much the same as it has been for the last few centuries; one of the things that has changed, however, is the introduction of a time limit. Before 1975, matches were not timed, and competitors would wrestle for one, two, even three days—as long as it took for one to put the other on his back or raise him over his head. Winning could involve the other fainting, or even dying, of exhaustion (imagine wrestling another man for days in a baking pan, covered in olive oil, and wearing black pants). Nowadays, if there is no winner in 30-45min., a shorter overtime of 10-15min. is called, with points scored for skill. Even today, though, there are men who pass out (luckily, modern medics come running) after several hours of matches.
So what exactly can you expect to see? There’s one big stadium near the old palace ruins of Edirne, a 30min. walk from the city center, filled with thousands of male spectators. (This is one of the great mysteries of life—we’d think this sport would be adored by female viewers, what with the glistening muscles and multitudes of godly men battling each other, but women are hugely outnumbered in the crowd.) At any point during the wrestling portion of the day (from 9am-6pm), there are about five pairs of wrestlers getting it on in the field at the center of the stadium. You’ll see highly ceremonial, charismatic ritual walks and displays of power, as well as signs of the absolute respect and friendship the wrestlers have for each other—look for the dignified ankle touches that happen whenever two cross paths, or for the less subtle bear hugs and back rubs that also happen when two friendlier ones crash paths. You’ll see wrestlers push each other back and forth across the slippery field like two rams locking horns, you’ll see flips and throws, you’ll see tears and cheers and fists thrown into the air or pounding the ground. You’ll see countless men—so many men—pour water or oil over their half-naked, glorious bodies at the end of a particularly trying match. And all of this to the pounding, relentless, animalistic beat of the traditional drums and the whining, haunting flute. You’ll see some pretty questionable moves: a popular one is for a man to hook one arm around his opponent’s neck, then shove his other hand down the guy’s pants and kind of squat behind him to rest for a few minutes. As it turns out, this is very strategic for being able to suddenly throw the opponent, with one hand braced and locked under the convenient hook of the waistband. At the end of three days of wrestling, you’ll finally see the winner, the huge Turkish flag, and the outpouring of nationalism and pride that makes your heart, too, want to explode with the excitement of it all. Outside the stadium walls, the whole of Edirne comes alive with market stalls, fantastic street food snacks, ice cream, an amusement park, and open-air concerts.
Now for the logistics. The festival itself runs for about a week in the last week of June or the first week of July. The first four days mostly consist of free concerts, celebrations, and people actually making their way to Edirne. The real deal is the last three days. On Day 5, at noon, there is the Friday Prayer with the wrestlers at the Selimiye Mosque, then the Opening Ceremony at the stadium. There is no entrance fee for this day, and you’ll see about three hours of wrestling. Day 6 is full-on wrestling from 9am-6pm, with a free open-air concert at night at the Selimiye Mosque. Day 7 is the one you really want to catch: the final wrestling matches happen from 9am-5pm, with the winner declared at around 6pm, followed by a parade through the streets of Edirne. Unless you’re very much ahead of the game, you won’t be able to find an empty hotel room in the city (you must reserve ahead by January at the latest for most hotels). As it’s only a three-hour bus ride from Istanbul to Edirne, we recommend arriving early and leaving late for a one-day visit, preferably to witness the final day. Tickets can be bought online through Biletix.com or for the same price at the ticket stalls in the stadium. Tickets very rarely sell out, but the stadium is packed by late afternoon on Day 7.
It’s an easy 30min. walk to Sarayiçi, the site of the Kırkpınar stadium, from the city center. From Saraçlar Cad., walk north all the way up to the end of Hükümet Cad. When the road forks, take the right fork and follow the road as it turns into Tekkekagpı Cad. At the intersection with Saray Yolu, turn left and walk straight until you cross the bridge. Keep going straight, and you’ll see the stadium on the right. There will be crowds and vendors as you go. Tickets can be bought via Biletix.com or at the stadium on the day of a match. Day 5 free. Day 6 50-80 TL. Day 7 77-110 TL. Contact the Edirne Tourism Office (0284 213 9208) in May or June for precise dates. Preliminary celebrations and concerts run Days 1-4. Wrestling typically begins around 3pm and ends at 6pm on Day 5. Days 6-7 wrestling from 9am-6pm. Closing ceremony and parade on Day 7 6-8pm.
Practicalities
• TOURIST INFORMATION: The Tourism Information Office has a fluent English speaker and is an excellent resource for anything from bus schedules to advice on seeing the annual Oil Wrestling Festival. (0284 213 9208 From Saraçlar Cad., walk north and turn left at the big intersection with Talat Paşa Cad. You’ll see the office on the left, with “Tourist Information” on the front. Open daily 8:30am-6pm in summer; M-F 8:30am-5:30pm in winter. Closed for lunch from noon-1pm.) There is also a Local Tourism Department of Government (Edirne İlkültür ve Turizm Müdürlüğü) at Hükümet Cad. 17/A. (0284 225 3029 Open M-F 8:30am-5:30pm. Closed for lunch from noon-1pm.)
• CURRENCY EXCHANGE: Use the main PTT on Saraçlar Cad. (0284 212 5463) to exchange money, send postcards, and make phone calls. There are also countless other banks and exchange offices along Saraçlar Cad. and Hürriyet Meydanı (turn left at the intersection of Saraçlar and Talat Paşa Cad.).
• ATMS: There are too many ATMS to choose from along Saraçlar Cad. and Hürriyet Meydanı (the most common are Akbank), which will take all major debit cards.
• INTERNET: There are no public Wi-Fi spots, but many cafes and hotels provide their own networks. The nearest internet cafe to the tourism office is Network Café. (0284 214 2945 Walk north up Saraçlar Cad., then take the 1st right after Tahmis Sok.)
• POST OFFICES: There is a major PPT office on Saraçlar Cad., just to the right of the big fountain of the couple holding hands when facing north. (0284 212 5463 Open M-F 8:30am-5pm, Sa 10am-3:30pm.)
Emergency
• EMERGENCY NUMBER: 112.
• POLICE: 155
• POLICE OPERATOR: 0284 213 9240
• LATE-NIGHT PHARMACIES: Edirne has plenty of eczane (pharmacies) along major streets like Saraçlar Cad. and Talat Paşa Cad. After 7pm, closed pharmacies indicate the nearest open one (nöbetçi) on their doors. Alternatively, you can check www.treczane.com under the drop-down menu “nöbetçi ezcaneler.”
• HOSPITALS/MEDICAL SERVICES: The nearest hospital is the private Trakya Hospital, orÖzel Trakya Hastanesi. (0284 225 0000 From Saraçlar Cad., turn right at the intersection with Talat Paşa Cad. and follow it southeast until you see the hospital on the left. You can also take a minibüs to the stop directly opposite the hospital.) Very close by is the Edirne State Hospital, or Edirne Devlet Hastanesi. (0284 214 5510 From Trakya Hospital, continue southeast down Talat Paşa Cad., then take a left at Sanca Paşa Cami Sok. You should see the hospital complex to the right.)
Getting There
The intercity bus companies have their offices near Taksim Sq. and at the Büyük (Esenler) Otogar in Istanbul, as well as in front of Kadıköy ferry and bus terminals on the Asian side. There are frequent daily direct buses running from Istanbul or Kadıköy to Edirne (30-35 TL. 6½hr. from Istanbul, 4-5hr. from Kadıköy) operated by Truva, Kamil Koç, Metro, Nilüfer, and Ulusoy. You can board these at the Büyük Otogar (in Bayrampaşa, Istanbul), but some of these companies offer private minibüses from Taksim or Kadıköy to the otogar. The complimentary beverages and Wi-Fi make the bus the best deal. Check with the company for details on these perks. At Edirne, bus companies’ offices cluster inside the bus terminal (Edirne Otogar: 0284 226 0020) and are scattered throughout the city center.
Getting Around
Once you arrive in the city center of Edirne, pretty much everything you might want to see is within walking distance. From Edirne Otogar, you’ll want to take a minibüs (2 TL) or taxi (20 TL) to the intersection between Saraçlar Cad. and Talat Paşa Cad., otherwise known as Hürriyet Meydanı Square in the city center. Navigation to the local tourism office, hotels, and sights is easy from there. The minibüs stops are along the main vehicular road of Talat Paşa Cad., Hükümet Cad., and Londra Asfaltı. The minibüses don’t take cash, so you must buy a Kent Kart (available from most convenience kiosks, 2 TL per ride). You can also easily hail a taxi from right next to Ziraat Bankası in Hürriyet Meydanı Sq. The three popular outlying areas of the city—Sarayiçi (palace ruins and Oil Wrestling Stadium) to the northeast, the Sultan Bayezid II mosque complex to the northwest, and Karaağaç (pretty suburban home to the Lausanne Monument) to the southwest—can all be reached by a 30min. walk.
VISAS
Citizens of Australia, Canada, Ireland, the UK, the US, and most other developed countries are required to get three-month, multiple-entry visas in order to enter Turkey. Visas range from €15-45, depending on your nationality, and usually allow you to spend up to 90 days in Turkey. Visas can be purchased at entry points in Turkey: airports, train stations, and bus terminals. Though they are technically called “tourist visas,” most travelers report that they are basically a cash grab, and the officials seem to change the rates at will. Citizens of New Zealand do not need a visa for entrance into Turkey.
MONEY
Currency
Turkey’s duality does not end with its continental identity crisis. Both the euro and the Turkish lira (TL) are common currency in the city. It’s best to be armed with a little bit of both just in case. We find that travelers will usually use euro to pay for accommodations, and TL for everything else. Many restaurants, non-touristy shops, supermarkets, bars, clubs, sights, and utilities only accept TL. This is not the case with hotels, most of which quote in euro (with the logical exception of those on the Asian side of Turkey). Euro prices tend to be slightly marked up in order to take advantage of lazy tourists. Only tourist-oriented locales bother to list euro prices. In places intended to rip tourists off, such as shopping venues in Sultanahmet, Istanbul, only euro are accepted. Ultimately, it’s just cheaper to pay in lire, so the budget traveler should definitely carry many more lire than euro.
Tipping and Bargaining
In Turkey, you should tip around 5-10% in fancier restaurants (but make sure they didn’t already include a service fee). Tips aren’t expected in inexpensive restaurants. It is not customary to tip taxi drivers, but people will often round up the fare. At hamams, attendants will line up to “bid you goodbye” when you leave, meaning that they expect tips—distribute 10-15% of the total cost among them. Porters expect a few lire, and generally if anyone ever helps you, they are likely to smile kindly (sometimes creepily) and ask for a baksheesh, or tip.
The Turks see bargaining in a street market or bazaar as a life skill, but trying to get a cheaper price in an established shop can be disrespectful. If it’s unclear whether bargaining is appropriate in a situation, hang back and watch someone else buy first. Be warned, merchants with any pride in their wares will refuse to sell to someone who has offended them in the negotiations, so don’t lowball too much.
Taxes
In Turkey, there is an 18% value added tax (VAT), known as the KDV, included in the price of most goods and services (including meals, lodging, and car rentals). Before you buy, check if the KDV is included in the price to avoid paying it twice. Theoretically, the KDV that you pay on your trip can be reclaimed at most points of departure, but this requires much persistence and it’s a hassle and a half. You may also encounter an airport tax of 15 lira, which is levied only on international travelers, but it is usually included in the cost of plane tickets.
SAFETY AND HEALTH
Unsafe Areas
Suburbs are the least-safe areas of cities, especially at night. Thieves also tend to target known student areas. Nationalist, neo-fascist mobs of students in the Zeytinburnu area have been reported to attack visitors. Another place that locals recommend avoiding at night is Tarlabaşı.
Local Laws and Police
The General Directorate of Security (Emniyet Genel Müdüdlüğü) is the civilian police force in Turkey. Police officers wear navy-blue uniforms and caps. Police cars are blue and white and have “Polis” written on the side doors and hood. Police violence is a problem in Turkey, especially at protests and demonstrations, so exercise caution when near these events (in fact, try not to be near them at all). According to Human Rights Watch, police routinely use firearms during arrests without exhausting non-violent means and also when there is not an apparent threat of death or injury. Always be respectful and compliant when dealing with the police, and make it clear that you are a tourist.
Drugs and Alcohol
Turkey is a huge locus of drug trafficking coming from Afghanistan and Iran into Europe. It is estimated that as much as 80% of the heroin in Britain comes through Turkey. In recent years, the Interior Ministry has boasted a 149% increase in seizures of opium and opium derivatives, so the government takes drug trafficking very seriously. The Turkish government has adopted a harsh policy (including fines and jail time) for those caught with drugs. If caught, a meek “I didn’t know it was illegal” will not suffice. Remember that you are subject to Turkey’s laws, not those of your home country, while within its borders.
The official drinking age is 18. Avoid public drunkenness. Islam prohibits the consumption of alcohol, even though it is legal in Turkey, so the drinking culture here is very different from what you may be used to. Do not drink during the holy month of Ramadan. At sporting events, the drinking age is 24, but it is not heavily enforced.
Terrorism
Though the threat is lower in Istanbul than elsewhere in the country, terrorism is a persistent problem in Turkey. A number of terrorist groups remain active, mostly in the south east, where the separatist Kurdistan Workers’ Party (PKK) regularly attacks national security forces. Let’s Go does not recommend travel in the southeastern provinces of Hakkari, Sirnak, Siirt, or Tunceli due to the instability and terrorism in these provinces. However, the PKK has in recent years bombed government and civilian targets in Istanbul, Ankara, Izmir, and tourist resorts of the Mediterranean and Aegean. Bombs are normally planted in crowded areas in trash cans, outside banks, or on mini-buses and trains. Bombings occur a few times a year but are generally not deadly and are targeted toward the police and the government. The best thing you can do to be safe is to be aware of your surroundings, especially in crowded areas and tourist sites.
Turkey reminds us of a young Destiny’s Child. Replete with Roman and Byzantine ruins and Ottoman palaces, Turkey has its fair share of Beyoncé-style glamour. Meanwhile, scenic landscapes like the cave formations of central Anatolia and small towns full of stray cats, sagging laundry lines, and devout, elderly Muslim women provide the soothing, supporting vocals. If you were working with a five-day itinerary, you might be scrabbling to get a glimpse of all of these facets of Turkey. But with an extended trip, you have the opportunity to survey the country and then dive into your spectacle of choice. Time travel to 330 CE and study the Great Palace of Constantinople, teach English in a small Turkish town, or enjoy Istanbul’s high life while tutoring for the TOEFL on the side. Just as that female trio did 20 years ago, Turkey is prepping for its big break on the world stage. It’s bound to hit the top of the international charts one of these days, and, when it does, you’ll want to say that you discovered it first.
If Turkey is Destiny’s Child, Istanbul is its Beyoncé—cosmopolitan, vivacious, and just plain sexy. If you’re looking for a more authentically Turkish locale, you might consider heading to the capital, Ankara (perhaps the Solange Knowles of Turkey?), which is home to one of Asia’s best technical universities.
• ISTANBUL UNIVERSITY: Why not study for final exams in a city with world-famous massage houses? Known for both its academics and its historical significance, Istanbul University is the oldest university in Turkey (est. 1453), and its grounds include the former headquarters of the Ottoman Empire’s Ministry of War as well as visible Roman and Byzantine ruins.
• ISLAMIC STUDIES SCHOLARSHIP PROGRAM: Religion majors might be few and far between, but they get some serious perks. The Turkish government currently provides scholarships (tuition plus pocket money) for undergraduates and post-grads to continue their religious studies in Turkey, the nation that gave us the Blue Mosque and the Haghia Sophia.
• DUKE IN TURKEY: If you’re looking for a summer introduction to the country, Duke in Turkey (run by—surprise, surprise—Duke University) is a tempting option. The program brings undergraduates to Istanbul to study the rich history of this strategically located city. (1 919 660 3151 goknar@duke.edu)
VOLUNTEER
• KIVA FELLOWS PROGRAM: Interested in finance but not the Gordon Gekko type? Kiva Fellows Program is an international, microfinance organization that makes loans to low-income women throughout the world, and the organization has an outpost in Istanbul. (1 828 479 5482
• MAVI KALEM: Mavi Kalem will take you beyond postcard Turkey, whisking you away from Istanbul’s surreal Blue Mosque and Topkapi Palace and setting you down in the nearby (and rather poor) neighborhoods of Fener and Balat. As a volunteer, you’ll likely assist in teaching some adorable Turkish children English and arts and crafts. (90 212 534 41 33 mavikalem@mavikalem.org)
• BOMONTI FRANSIZ FAKIRHANESI: If you find yourself in Istanbul for an extended stay, you might consider volunteering at Bomonti Fransiz Farkihanesi. Catholic nuns from the order of “Little Sisters of the Poor”—a name which, admittedly, seems designed to guilt-trip you—run this retirement home for the elderly poor. (90 0212 248 09 03 edwenafinn@hotmail.com)
• HUMAN RIGHTS FOUNDATION OF TURKEY: For a beautiful country, Turkey has some pretty grim history—most notably, the Armenian Genocide of 1915. The Human Rights Foundation of Turkey documents human rights abuses from both the past and the present and relies on volunteers with expertise in law, medicine, and social services toassist their efforts. (90 0 312 310 66 36)
• EDUCATIONAL VOLUNTEERS FOUNDATION OF TURKEY: Since its founding in 1995, this group has organized its own corps of volunteers, which it tasks with developing and running after-school programs in underserved areas of Turkey. (90 0 216 290 70 00 tegv@tegv.org)
WORK
Just as Destiny’s Child did, Turkey has its sights on the top of the charts and has the potential to get there. Unfortunately for foreigners, unlike Destiny’s Child (and musical groups, in general), the Turkish government is enforcing a policy of no groupies allowed. The government doesn’t want foreigners in positions that Turks could fill, and this attitude makes work visas very hard to come by. Your best bet as a foreigner is to market your skills as a native English speaker and find work as a tutor, hostess, or au pair.
Homosexuality is not illegal in Turkey, but it is recommended that GLBT travelers exercise caution when traveling due to the conservative values embedded in Muslim-majority Turkish society.
Nationalism
The Turks are very proud of all people, items, and history associated with their nation. Do not insult, profane, or ridicule Mustafa Kemal Atatürk. Never. He is a national legend and is practically untouchable. The joke goes that a Turk will flinch if you insult his mother but will kill you if you insult Kemal. So please, don’t even try. You should adopt the same reverent attitude toward the Turkish flag. It’s everywhere and it symbolizes patriotic pride. It is best to steer clear of discussing politics (especially around election time) or the Kurdish situation.
Contraceptives and Feminine Hygiene
Turkey is much more conservative than other travel destinations. It is almost impossible to find tampons, due to suspicion that they lead to the deflowering of women. Either bring a supply with you, or stock up on sanitary napkins when you get there. The morning-after pill is illegal without a prescription, as is birth control. Pharmacies and some large supermarkets sell condoms, but women should take care to be discreet with these purchases.
Water
Be wary of the tap water in Turkey. Though Istanbul is fairly modernized, the water throughout the capital and country still isn’t safe to drink. Even the locals don’t touch it, and there is no need for you to either, since bottled water is pretty cheap.