TRY to think in terms of millions. Try to think of noise and confusion, of the thick smell of petrol, of the scraping of automobile gears, of shouts, wails, curses, tears. Try to think of a hot sun and underneath it an unbroken stream of humanity flowing southwards from Paris, and you have a picture of the gigantic civilian exodus that presaged the German advance.

I had seen refugees before. I had seen them wending their way along the roads of Spain and Czechoslovakia; straggling across the Polish-Roumanian frontier, trudging down the icy paths of Finland. But I had never seen anything like this. This was the first mechanized evacuation in history. There were some people in carts, some on foot and some on bicycles. But for the most part everyone was in a car.

Those cars, lurching, groaning, backfiring, represented a Noah’s Ark of vehicles. Anything that had four wheels and an engine was pressed into service, no matter what the state of decrepitude; there were taxi-cabs, ice-trucks, bakery vans, perfume wagons, sports roadsters and Paris buses, all of them packed with human beings. I even saw a hearse loaded with children. They crawled along the roads two and three abreast, sometimes cutting across the fields and straddling the ditches. Tom and I caught up with the stream a mile or so outside Paris on the Paris-Dourdan-Chartres road and in the next three hours covered only nine miles.

We saw terrible sights. All along the way cars that had run out of petrol or broken down, were pushed into the fields. Old people, too tired or ill to walk any farther, were lying on the ground under the merciless glare of the sun. We saw one old woman propped up in the ditch with the family clustered around trying to pour some wine down her throat. Often the stream of traffic was held up by cars that stalled and refused to move again. One car ran out of petrol halfway up a hill. It was a bakery van, driven by a woman. Everyone shouted and honked their horns, while she stood in the middle of the road with her four children around her begging someone to give her some petrol. No one had any to spare. Finally, three men climbed out of a truck and in spite of her agonized protests, shoved the car into the ditch. It fell with a crash. The rear axle broke and the household possessions piled on top sprawled across the field. She screamed out a frenzy of abuse, then flung herself on the ground and sobbed. Once again the procession moved on.

In that world of terror, panic and confusion, it was difficult to believe that these were the citizens of Paris, citizens whose forefathers had fought for their freedom like tigers and stormed the Bastille with their bare hands. For the first time, I began to understand what had happened to France. Morale was a question of faith; faith in your cause, faith in your goal, but above all else, faith in your leaders. How could these people have faith in leaders who had abandoned them? Leaders who had given them no directions, no information, no reassurances; who neither had arranged for their evacuation nor called on them to stay at their places and fight for Paris until the last? If this was an example of French leadership, no wonder France was doomed. Everywhere the machinery seemed to have broken down. The dam had begun to crumble and hysteria, a trickle at first, had grown into a torrent.

Even the military roads were overrun with panic-stricken civilians. Tom was an officially accredited war correspondent, so he swung off on to one of them. Although the entrance was patrolled by gendarmes, who demanded our credentials, there was no one to keep traffic from streaming in at the intersections and a mile or so farther on we once again found civilian cars moving along two or three abreast. At one point an artillery unit on its way up to the new front south-east of Paris was blocked by a furniture truck stalled across the road. The driver, with perspiration pouring down his face, was trying to crank the car while the soldiers yelled and cursed at him. One of them paced angrily up and down, saying “Filthy civilians. Filthy, filthy civilians.” At last, the truck got started again and the unit moved past. Another time, a procession of ambulances, with gongs clanging frantically, were held up by congestion on the outskirts of a village for over an hour. The drivers swore loudly but it had little effect; I wondered what was happening to the poor devils inside.

The only military units that succeeded in getting a clear berth were the tanks. Once we looked back to see two powerful fifteen-ton monsters thundering up behind us. They were travelling about forty miles an hour and the effect was remarkable. People gave one look and pulled in to the ditches. They went rolling by, the great treads tearing up the earth and throwing pieces of dirt into the air like a fountain. After them came a number of fast-moving lorries and a string of soldiers on motor-cycles with machine-guns attached to the side-cars. They all seemed in excellent spirits: one of the tanks was gaily marked in chalk “La Petite Marie”, and the trucks and guns were draped with flowers. Two of the motor-cyclists shouted at us, asking if we had any cigarettes. Tom told me to throw them a couple of packages. They were so pleased they signalled us to follow them, escorted us past the long string of civilian cars to the middle of the convoy and placed us firmly between the two tanks. For the next ten or fifteen minutes we roared along at forty miles an hour. Unfortunately, eight or nine miles down the road they turned off, the motor-cyclists waved good-bye and blew us kisses, and once again we found ourselves caught up in the slow-moving procession of evacuees.

It was nearly nine o’clock now and we had covered little more than twenty miles. “I wonder if we’ll make it,” said Tom, looking at his watch. When we had left Paris at five o’clock there were already reports that the Germans were circling around on both sides of the capital to cut off the roads in the rear. Tom had a military map and we decided to try the cross-country lanes. Some of them were scarcely more than footpaths but we could at least average ten or twelve miles an hour, which was a great improvement. It was getting so dark it was difficult to see and twice we barely avoided running over people with no lights on their bicycles. Suddenly the sky lit up with a flash and we heard a far-away rumble. It was the first gunfire I had heard all day. “Something’s creeping up on us,” said Tom. “Still, if we keep on like this, I think we’ll be all right.”

We drove along the twisting lane for five or six miles. It was a relief to be in the open countryside away from the suffocating smell of petrol, but the road was so black the driving was a strain. Tom had some food in the back of the car and we decided to stop and have something to eat. He was in favour of finding a haystack to lean against, but the next few miles of country was barren and rocky. At last we saw a clump of trees outlined in the darkness. It seemed the best we could do, so we pulled over to the side of the road. The car gave a violent lurch and careened into a six-foot ditch. Only the right wheels were gripping the road. The left side was flat against the earth. We were suspended at such a sharp angle we had difficulty in forcing the upper door, but at last succeeded in climbing out.

The rumble of guns seemed to be louder and the flashes against the sky more frequent. “Boches or no Boches,” said Tom, “it looks as though we’re going to linger here a while. Let’s pick out a place to eat, then I’ll see if I can find someone to give us a hand.”

But even here we were frustrated. The field was soaking wet. There was one miserable haystack in the middle of it, damp and soggy. We went back to the road and paced up and down for ten or fifteen minutes, wondering if anyone would pass. It was getting cold and I began to shiver. After having cursed the traffic for hours, it was slightly ironical to find ourselves longing for the sight of a human being.

Tom finally started back to the last village, several miles away, and I climbed back into the car (which was like going down a toboggan slide) to try and get warm. It was a beautiful night. The sky was clear and starry, and the only noise to break the quiet was the drone of crickets and the spasmodic thunder of guns. I wondered how far the Germans had got. Funny to think that people in America probably knew more than we did as to what was going on.

It was nearly midnight when Tom got back again. He had tried a dozen farmhouses but everyone was in bed. At last (with the help of a hundred-franc note) he had extracted a promise from one of the farmers to come at dawn with a team of horses and pull us out.

That was seven precious hours away, but it was the best he could do. As an American citizen, I was in no danger, but if Tom were captured, it meant an internment camp for the rest of the war. He appeared completely unruffled, however, and commented with characteristic English calmness: “Well, there’s nothing to be done about it. Now, let’s eat. God, I’m hungry.”

We sat by the roadside, drinking wine and munching bread and cheese; then we got out all the coats and sweaters we could find, wrapped them round us, and climbed back into the car. The angle was so uncomfortable I slept only by fits and starts, expecting momentarily to be awakened by the noise of German tanks. Luckily, no such startling developments took place. The farmer kept his promise and shortly after five o’clock appeared with two large fat white horses who pulled the car out as easily as though it had been a perambulator. Once again we started on our way.

We stopped at the next village—I can’t remember the name of it—to get some coffee. The first sight that greeted us was half a dozen British Tommies lined up on the crooked cobble-stone street, the corporal standing in front of them, bawling them out for some misdemeanour. They were large, beefy-looking men who might have stepped out of a page from Punch. When the corporal dismissed them they grinned sheepishly and made a few jokes behind his back. Tom asked one of them where the officers were billeted, and I went into the café to try to get some of the grime off my clothes. In spite of the early hour there was a buzz of activity inside. Several people were sitting around, and a radio was blaring loudly. The announcer was saying something about the “heroic resistance of our troops”. An old man made a gesture of disbelief and muttered something I couldn’t hear. The woman with him replied angrily, her harsh voice echoing through the café: “Ne dîtes pas ça. Il faut espérer.”

I asked the waitress if there was any coffee, but she regarded me in mild surprise and replied that the refugees had gone through the village like a swarm of locusts. “Everywhere,” he said, “they have stripped the countryside bare.”

It took me some time to get clean again, and when I came out I found Tom waiting for me with two officers, wearing the insignia of the Royal Engineers. They offered to give us breakfast and led us down the street to the mess. They seemed to know little more than we did; they told us they had just received orders to move up to a new position. Most of them had been in France for the last five or six months and pressed us eagerly with questions about England. French morale may have been shaky, but there was nothing downhearted about this group. “You don’t think people at home will be discouraged by this setback, do you?” ‘Setback!’ That was a good one, I thought. When we climbed into the car again they all clustered around and one of them said: “Well, so long. See you in Cologne next Christmas!”

We did the next hundred miles to Tours in about five hours. We had learned the trick now and kept entirely to the country lanes which, rough though they were, were fairly clear of refugees. It was only when we got within ten miles of Tours and were forced back on the main road again that the trickle once again became a mighty stream. Added to this, Tom’s radiator began leaking. The water boiled up and clouds of steam began pouring out of the front. It took us nearly an hour to get into the city. The great bridge over the Loire looked like a long thin breadcrust swarming with ants.

Finally at one-thirty, with Tom’s car gasping and heaving, we drew up before the Hotel de l’Univers. The first person I saw was Knickerbocker, just coming out of the door.

“My God! How did you get here?”

“You’re always asking me that.”

“But where’ve you come from?”

“Paris.”

“Paris! But the Germans went into Paris hours ago. When did you leave?”

I told him.

“They were in the Bois de Boulogne last night. You must have rubbed shoulders with them on the way out. Probably you just didn’t recognize them,” he added with a grin. “All soldiers look grey in the dark.”

Tours was bedlam. The French High Command had announced that the River Loire was to be the next line of defence and all sorts of wild rumours were circulating: first, that the German Air Force had threatened to obliterate the town; and, second, that German motor-cycle units had reached Le Mans only thirty miles away, and were likely to come thundering through the streets at any moment now. The Government had already left for Bordeaux and the refugees who had scrambled into Tours in a panic were now trying to scramble out again in still more of a panic. I ran into Eddie Ward of the B.B.C., who told me that Press Wireless, the only means of communication with the outside world (all cables to England were sent via America at eightpence a word), was still functioning, and that he and the Reuter staff were remaining another day. As it was my only chance to file a story, I decided to stay too. Eddie said Reuter’s could probably provide me with a bed and he would give me a place in his car to Bordeaux in the morning.

There were a good many speculations about Winston Churchill’s conversation with Reynaud and Weygand three days before; he was believed to have urged the French, if the worst came to the worst, to continue the war from North Africa. Although it had been announced in London that complete agreement had been reached, “as to the measures to be taken to meet the developments in the war situation”, most of the journalists were pessimistic about the prospects of France’s continuation of the fight. French officials seemed in a state of moral collapse; even the censorship appeared to have broken down, but no one complained about that. Up till this time despatches had been censored so rigidly it was impossible to give any indication of the situation. Now, quite suddenly, everyone could say what they liked. I wrote a long piece about the panic and confusion along the road from Paris and not a word was cut. Gordon Waterfield sent a story suggesting that France was threatened with a defeat similar to that of 1870 and the next morning Harold King sent an even more pessimistic cable. Gordon told me later that when these despatches reached London the censors were so surprised they held them up for a considerable time while they found out from higher authorities whether it was really true that France was in such a bad way.

Eddie drove me over to Reuter’s headquarters, a large, handsome edifice about a mile from the centre of the town. The house had been taken on a six months’ lease to the tune of forty thousand francs and, as it turned out, was occupied exactly forty-eight hours. I spent the night there, which seemed an odd interlude. From a world of dirt and discomfort I suddenly found myself plunged into a Hollywood bedroom, decorated with mirrors and chintz, a thick white rug and a pale green telephone. That evening eight of us dined at a table with candles glowing and silver gleaming. We had turtle soup, tournedos with sauce béarnaise, fresh vegetables and a wonderful cherry pie. The world might be turning upside down, but it was difficult to realize it.

The house was run by a charming, middle-aged couple—a caretaker and his wife. The latter, plump and motherly, was also taut and defiant; she refused to let bad news alarm her and clung ferociously to the belief that France would rally in the end. “If there were more people like her,” said Eddie, “there wouldn’t be an end. But, unfortunately, there aren’t.”

I spent that afternoon writing my story for the Sunday Times. About seven o’clock the wail of sirens hooted through the town and a few minutes later I heard the drone of bombers. I tried to ignore it and went on typing. Suddenly I heard a shriek from the drawing-room. I ran downstairs and found the eight-and nine-year-old children of the caretakers jumping up and down with joy. “Nous avons vu les Boches!” Then they both leaned far out of the window, pointing towards the sky. You could just make out a few small specks circling overhead. I wished I could get as enthusiastic over an air raid; in spite of all the talk about sparing children the terrors of bombardment, they seemed to be the only ones who really enjoyed it.

I was surprised that their mother didn’t order them into a shelter, but I learned later she was disdainful of people who took cover. The next morning when the German planes came over again, several bombs fell near us, shaking the house violently. Eddie and I went down to the kitchen. She gave us an enquiring look.

“You’re not afraid of the Boches, are you?”

“Oh no,” said Eddie weakly. “I thought perhaps you might have an extra cup of coffee.”

“Oh, certainly.” Her face brightened. “I don’t like to see people afraid of the Boches. They’re all filthy bullies and cowards. My husband was in the last war and he said whenever they came up against equal numbers they turned and ran. They’re all the same. There’s nothing to be afraid of.”

“Nothing,” I agreed, my heart still pounding uncertainly. Eddie gave me a sour look.

We left shortly after lunch for Bordeaux. There were six of us: Gordon Waterfield, Harold King, Courtenay Young, Joan Slocombe (the pretty nineteen-year-old daughter of George Slocombe of the Sunday Express), Eddie and myself. Gordon had a Ford roadster and Eddie a Citroen, with an R.A.F. number plate, which he had picked up somewhere between Brussels and Tours. They had been wise enough to do a good deal of shopping and it took over half an hour to load up the cars with blankets, sleeping-bags, cooking utensils and stores of food—not to mention typewriters, luggage, office files, a camping tent and a collapsible canoe.

Just before we started off, Courtenay Young and I hurried down to the Press Wireless office to send a final despatch. On the way back I heard someone call to me and looked around to see the little Egyptian with whom I had travelled to Paris. His hair was streaming round his face, his clothes were caked with mud, and he looked more agitated than ever. He had had a terrible time. He had found his house deserted, and his children gone; he hadn’t yet discovered what had happened to them. He had left Paris only twenty-four hours before and had actually seen the Germans entering the city through the Aubervilliers Gate. Motor-cycle units had passed as close as two hundred yards from where he was standing. He said the occupation had come as a shock to many of the people and the scenes of despair were unbelievable. Men and women wept openly in the street. “Some of them went almost crazy,” he gasped. “I saw one woman pull out a revolver and shoot her dog, then set fire to her house.”

The Egyptian was on his way to Bordeaux. He was in such a rush he couldn’t stop to tell me more and I never learned the story of how he had managed to escape from Paris.