When we had leftover asparagus in the spring or summertime, my mom-mom would say, “Joe, ya’ want some asparagus ’n’ a egg?” I can still hear her describing every dish she made as “something n’ something.” And the way I write my menu at Little Owl is an ode to my South Philly childhood and the way I remember hearing my mom-mom’s food. I can’t get it out of my ear, nor do I want to! Note: By blanching the asparagus spears first, you’ll get them tender-crisp and lock in a bright green color that won’t fade when you finish them in the oven just enough to cook “a egg.”
SERVES 4
16 spears fresh medium-thick asparagus, tough ends trimmed and discarded
1 Tbsp olive oil
1/2 cup [50 g] finely grated fresh Parmesan cheese
4 egg yolks (reserve the whites for an egg wash, omelet, or meringue)
Freshly ground black pepper
Maldon sea salt
1/4 cup [50 g] drained Pickled Red Onions (page 84)
1/2 cup [30 g] Panko Crunchies (see page 78)
A small handful of frisée, chicory, or curly endive (optional)
Extra-virgin olive oil, for drizzling
Preheat the oven to 350°F [180°C].
Prepare an ice water bath by filling a large bowl (preferably metal) with cold water and ice cubes. Set aside.
Bring a large pot of generously salted water to a boil. Add the asparagus and boil until they turn a bright green color and are tender, 3 to 4 minutes. Using tongs, remove the asparagus and plunge them into the ice water bath, and let sit for about 1 minute. Pull them out of the water, pat dry, and transfer to a mixing bowl. Add the olive oil, and using your hands, toss the asparagus until well coated.
Transfer the asparagus to a baking sheet and divide them into groups of 4 spears each, allowing a little space between the spears to support the egg yolk. Using your fingers, top each group of spears with a generous mound of Parmesan cheese, creating a small nest for the egg yolk. Gently place each egg yolk on a mound of cheese, season with a few grinds of black pepper, and bake until the yolks are just set, 3 to 4 minutes.
Transfer each asparagus and egg group to a plate and sprinkle a few flakes of Maldon sea salt right in the center of the yolk. Get them pretty with a pop of pink by scattering the red onions across the top. Let it rain Panko Crunchies all over until you use them up and garnish with your pick of lettuces, if using. Drizzle with extra-virgin olive oil and serve immediately.
