BROCCOLI, CAULIFLOWER, AND MUSHROOMS with Pepita Salsa Verde

Most Italian salsa verde preparations include salty anchovies and the addition of a piquant component like capers or cornichons. Instead, I go for more of a pesto feel in my salsa verde, using pepitas (the Spanish word for pumpkin seeds), and serve this at Little Owl every fall, when that delightful pumpkin-picking feeling is in the air. The result is an herbaceous and intense pumpkin seed oil dressing. It’s delicious when strewn across these roasted vegetables, but you can also use it as an accompaniment to other favorite dishes, like skirt steak or scrambled eggs. Note: Be sure to cut your cauliflower florets smaller than your broccoli florets, since cauliflower takes longer to cook.

SERVES 4 TO 6

Salsa Verde

1/4 cup [60 ml] olive oil

1/2 cup [70 g] raw, shelled pepitas

1/2 tsp kosher salt

1 large garlic clove, smashed

1/4 cup [10 g] finely chopped fresh Italian parsley leaves

1/4 cup [10 g] finely chopped fresh cilantro leaves

1/4 cup [10 g] finely chopped fresh dill leaves

1/4 cup [10 g] finely chopped fresh tarragon leaves

1/4 cup [60 ml] pumpkin seed oil

Vegetables

10 oz [280 g] broccoli crown, cut into large florets and halved

10 oz [280 g] cauliflower florets, cut into bite-size pieces (see headnote)

10 oz [280 g] cremini mushrooms, de-stemmed and halved

3 garlic cloves, minced

1/4 cup [60 ml] olive oil

Kosher salt

Freshly ground black pepper

Preheat the oven to 450°F [230°C]. Line a small baking sheet with paper towels. Line a large baking sheet with parchment paper.

To prepare the salsa verde: In a large skillet over high heat, warm the olive oil until it shimmers, add the pepitas, lower the heat to medium, and toast, stirring constantly with a wooden spoon until the seeds begin to turn toasty brown (they will also puff or even pop), 4 to 5 minutes. Continue to cook for 1 minute more, add the salt, give it a stir, then remove 1/4 cup [35 g] pepitas to use as garnish and transfer the remaining pepitas to the prepared paper towel–lined baking sheet to cool. Add the garlic to the same now-empty skillet and cook over medium heat until lightly browned, about 30 seconds.

To the work bowl of your food processor, add the parsley, cilantro, dill, tarragon, and the cooled pepitas and pulse a couple of times until it forms a thick paste. Add the pumpkin seed oil, stir, and transfer to a small bowl. Set aside.

To prepare the vegetables: In a large bowl, combine the broccoli, cauliflower, mushrooms, garlic, olive oil, a generous pinch of salt, and several grinds of pepper and give the whole thing a stir. Spread the vegetable mixture in an even layer on the large, prepared baking sheet and roast, until the broccoli florets darken at the edges, the cauliflower gets tender, and the mushrooms soften and release some of their liquid, about 15 minutes. Transfer to a serving platter, use a spoon to spread dollops of the salsa verde across the top, scatter the reserved pepitas (for extra crunch!), and serve immediately.