In my opinion, Chef Johnathan Waxman is the best person ever to cook a chicken. Period. But I have to admit, I also have a way with chicken that people crave at Little Owl. My guests are always wowed by this boneless swathe of white meat and dark meat bound by a marvelous sheet of crispy chicken skin. There are two secrets to this flavorful, juicy bird: First, I recommend looking for an excellent-quality, air-chilled organic whole chicken or chicken parts such as ones from Bell & Evans farm. Air-chilling evenly distributes cold temperature and doesn’t add extra moisture (which gets absorbed into the tissues of the bird and destroys the possibility for deep chicken flavor and crispy skin). “But, what if I see a lovely bird kept on ice at the farmers’ market, Joey?” Be wary of buying chicken that is kept cold on ice. Ice doesn’t evenly cool a chicken—at worst it can burn a bird in spots and create warm spots in others, sending a chicken straight into the temperature danger zone for bacterial growth. And second, you must start off cooking your chicken in a smoking-hot skillet to crisp the skin and then transfer it to your super-hot oven, keeping it skin-side down. (This was a very passionate chicken speech. Now, get cookin’!)
SERVES 2
One 3 lb [1.4 kg] air-chilled whole chicken, butchered into two portions, the Little Owl way (see page 144)
Kosher salt
Freshly ground white pepper
1/3 cup [80 ml] neutral oil, such as canola or vegetable oil
1 lemon, halved
Preheat the oven to as high and as hot as it can possibly go— I mean it.
Place the prepared chicken on a clean surface, skin-side up. Season generously with salt. Turn the chicken over, making sure to move the chicken breast tenderloin over (it’s like a little flap) to bridge the gap between the thigh meat and the breast meat, creating a perfectly even sheet of meat, and season generously with salt and white pepper.
In a large, ovenproof skillet (wide enough to hold two portions of chicken without overcrowding) over high heat, add the oil and heat until it smokes.
Remove the skillet from the heat, tilt it away from you, and gently, calmly, and nicely place a portion of chicken in the pan, skin-side down. (Don’t throw it in the pan, fancy pants, or you’ll get splashed with oil and burn yourself or your special somebody standing next to you.) Listen to that sizzle! Immediately add the second portion the exact same way. Give the pan a little shake and then transfer it to the oven, cooking them on one side only, until the skin is crispy, the flesh begins to brown, and the juices of the meat run clear, about 8 minutes. Serve immediately with a lemon half and Curried Leek Home Fries (page 100).
