LET’S TALK PORK We’ve come a long way from the days of overcooked dry pork and applesauce. Yet some folks still have a hard time consuming a piece of pork that has the slightest hint of pink. But, I promise you, the days of trichinosis are over. The presence of trichinae parasites has been virtually eliminated in the United States due to best farming practices. Since 2006, I’ve been using a double-cut 14 oz [400 g] Berkshire pork chop from Pat LaFrieda Meat Purveyors. Pat works with a coalition of independent family-owned farms in the Midwest that humanely raise Berkshire pigs that are given room to roam and are antibiotic-free. At Little Owl, I cook my pork chop to an internal temperature of 145°F [63°C], or medium-rare, to yield tender and juicy meat. I recommend you do the same. Also, choosing a double cut of pork for this recipe with a nice band of fat is key. When the fat renders, whatever seasoning was on the meat comes off, so don’t be afraid to be generous with the salt.
Little Owl is a destination for my pork chop. People come from all over the world to experience this huge, tender, scrumptious piece of meat in our tiny room (and it’s been on our menu from the day we opened our doors!). The success of the dish begins with the quality of the pork and just three ingredients in the marinade: extra-virgin olive oil, fennel, and garlic, each working in harmony to draw out every bit of juicy goodness in your pork chop. And the beauty of this recipe is that you can get a great caramelization on a small stove top griddle before finishing the pork in the oven. If you prefer to use canned beans (butter beans or cannellini beans work well), go for it! Just thoroughly rinse them to get as much salt off them as you can. When it’s time to heat them through, substitute 1/4 cup [60 ml] chicken stock for the bean liquid in the method. Yes, you’ll miss out on the hint of smoky ham hock, which has an incomparable depth of flavor, but that’s life. I still want you to have an alternative. And that pop of pickled fennel in the salad complements the fennel seed in the marinade. It’s such a lovely flavor surprise and makes the Little Owl Pork Chop stand apart from the rest. Don’t skip it! Note: This recipe calls for marinating the pork, preparing the Pickled Fennel (page 85), and soaking the beans overnight.
SERVES 4
1 Tbsp fennel seeds
4 large garlic cloves, minced
1/4 cup [60 ml] extra-virgin olive oil, plus more for drizzling
Four 14 oz [400 g] pork rib chops, 11/2 in [4 cm] thick
1 lb [455 g] dried, large white beans, such as gigante, soaked overnight and drained, or one 151/2 oz can [445 g] white beans, such as butter beans or cannellini, thoroughly rinsed and drained (see headnote)
1 lb [455 g] smoked ham hock
1 medium carrot, halved crosswise
1 stalk celery, halved crosswise
1 small onion, ends trimmed, peeled, and halved
1 large pinch The Harrison Spice Mix (page 18)
Freshly ground black pepper
2 Tbsp butter
1/4 cup [60 ml] chicken stock (if using canned beans), homemade (page 148) or store-bought
1/4 cup [25 g] finely grated fresh Parmesan cheese
1 Tbsp finely chopped
fresh Italian parsley
4 oz [115 g] dandelion greens, trimmed (about 2 packed cups)
7 or 8 slices Pickled Fennel (page 85)
2 Tbsp Sherry Shallot Vinaigrette (page 69)
Maldon sea salt flakes
In a small bowl, combine the fennel seeds, garlic, and 1/4 cup [60 ml] of the olive oil. Place the pork chops in a large glass baking dish and rub the garlic-fennel mixture over the pork chops. Cover tightly with plastic wrap, sealing it like a package, and refrigerate overnight.
In a large saucepan, place the beans, ham hock, carrot, celery, and onion and cover with 3 in [7.5 cm] of water. Bring to a boil over medium heat. Reduce the heat to low and simmer until the beans are tender, about 11/2 hours. Let the beans cool in the liquid, then drain, reserving 1/4 cup [60 ml] of the cooking liquid and discarding the vegetables and ham hock. Set the beans aside.
Preheat the oven to 375°F [190°C].
Prepare a stove top grill pan by brushing it with a splash or two of neutral oil (alternately, splash the corner of a clean kitchen towel with a bit of oil and rub it all over the grill pan). Preheat over medium heat for 5 minutes.
Generously season the pork chops with sprinkles of The Harrison Spice Mix and grinds of pepper, making sure to aggressively season any layer of fat that may be around the pork (the fat will melt, and some seasoning will fall off on the grill pan).
Place the pork chops on the grill pan and grill for 2 minutes on one side. Using tongs, carefully flip and grill the other side for 2 minutes more. Transfer to a baking dish and cook until the internal temperature is 145°F [63°C], 8 to 10 minutes. Remove from the oven and let rest for 5 to 10 minutes.
Meanwhile, in a large skillet over medium-low heat, melt the butter. Add the beans and the reserved cooking liquid (or chicken stock, if using canned beans) and cook over medium-low heat until the beans are warmed through and nicely glazed, about 2 minutes. Stir in the Parmesan and parsley and continue cooking and stirring until the cheese melts and the beans are thick and creamy, about 2 minutes more. (Canned beans may need an extra 1 to 2 minutes of stirring to reach that thick consistency.) Set aside.
In a large bowl, combine the dandelion greens, pickled fennel, and vinaigrette. Use your hands to mix well and set aside.
Divide the beans among four plates and top each with a pork chop. Place a little mound of the dandelion green salad on top and finish with drizzles of extra-virgin olive oil and a few Maldon sea salt flakes. Serve immediately and say “Wowie!”
