I want you to make the best big love crab cakes that you can, and that means big, beautiful lumps of crab all throughout the cake. So here are my most important tips: Whenever possible, buy fresh jumbo lump crabmeat instead of pasteurized crabmeat. Even if the name on the label has an East Coast name, any pasteurized crabmeat is most likely preserved sweet blue crab from Thailand or Vietnam and you can definitely taste the difference. The best (and most expensive) is fresh jumbo lump crabmeat that will be sold at the fish counter.
Next, if you are investing in fresh crabmeat, you want to protect your investment and be as gentle with it as possible. To easily remove any tiny pieces of shell without having to pick through it, turn your broiler on high, spread out the fresh crabmeat on a baking sheet, and broil for 30 seconds. Any small, remaining shells will be revealed for easy picking. Biting into a shell in an otherwise perfectly prepared crab cake is so unpleasant—for you, and your guests (I am thinking of your reputation, here!).
And lastly, I want you to think about the technique of folding (similar to folding egg whites into a cake batter so they remain airy and fluffy) when you add the crab to the mix. Don’t break it up or mash it in. And always make sure the last thing you add is the crab. You want these big love crab cakes full of jumbo love.
They make a wonderful summer dinner served alongside Roasted Corn, Spicy Mexican Style (page 89).
SERVES 4
Crab Cakes
2 Tbsp butter
1/4 white onion, finely diced
1 stalk celery, finely diced
1/2 red bell pepper, finely diced
1 egg
2 Tbsp mayonnaise
1 Tbsp Dijon mustard
1/4 tsp cayenne pepper
1/2 tsp celery seed
1/2 tsp celery salt
2 Tbsp finely chopped fresh Italian parsley
1/2 tsp freshly ground black pepper
1 tsp kosher salt
1 lemon
1 lb [454 g] jumbo lump crabmeat
4 cups [240 g] panko bread crumbs
1/4 cup [60 ml] neutral oil, such as canola or vegetable
Tomatoes
4 large, ripe beefsteak tomatoes, cored and cut into 8 wedges each Maldon sea salt flakes
Freshly ground black pepper
6 fresh basil leaves, roughly torn
Extra-virgin olive oil, for drizzling
To make the crab cakes: In a medium pan over low heat, melt the butter and add the onion, celery, and bell pepper. Cook until soft, 4 to 5 minutes. Transfer to a small bowl and cool in the refrigerator for 25 to 30 minutes.
Meanwhile, in a large bowl, combine the egg, mayonnaise, mustard, cayenne pepper, celery seed, celery salt, parsley, black pepper, and kosher salt and whisk to incorporate. Using a fine grater (such as a Microplane), remove the zest from the lemon and add it to the bowl. Cut the zested lemon in half and squeeze the juice into the bowl. Add the crabmeat and use a rubber spatula (or a wide, wooden spoon) to gently fold the mixture together until just incorporated, being careful not to break up the crabmeat. You want to see the beautiful lumps of meat throughout your cakes!
Add the reserved vegetable mixture and 1 cup [60 g] of the bread crumbs to the crab mixture. Mix gently to incorporate. Once mixed, separate the mixture into 8 portions, right there in your bowl. The easiest way is to use your hands to cut through the mixture by dividing it in half, then dividing those halves into quarters and finally dividing those quarters into eighths. Boom. Eight crab cake portions.
Scatter the remaining 3 cups [180 g] of bread crumbs on a baking sheet and get ready to pack your cakes! Now, listen up: The secret to packing crab cakes is in the gentle pressure that you apply, while simultaneously turning the cake. This will keep it light yet well combined so that it holds together without crushing the crabmeat. Using your hands and working with one portion of the crab mixture at a time, place the crab mixture in the palm of your hand and lightly form it into a ball. Hold the ball in one hand like you are loosely gripping a cup. Using a circular motion, turn the ball in your hand, while using the opposite hand to apply gentle pressure to the top of the ball with your thumb. Pack it down as you turn, applying more pressure to all parts of the surface area, using your fingers to smooth the edges until it forms a cake. Gently dredge the top and bottom of the crab cake in the reserved bread crumbs, then roll it through the bread crumbs to coat the cake on all sides. Set aside. Repeat to make the remaining 7 cakes, until you have used up all of your crab mixture. Chill them in the refrigerator for 1 hour. This will firm them up for frying!
To prepare the tomatoes: Using a sharp knife, slice the tomatoes into thick slices and transfer to a large plate or platter. Sprinkle with Maldon sea salt flakes and several grinds of fresh pepper, scatter the torn basil leaves across the top, and finish with drizzles of olive oil. Set aside.
In a large skillet over medium-high heat, warm the neutral oil until it shimmers. Test it by dropping a few bread crumbs into the pan. Does it sizzle? Great, the oil is ready! Lower the heat to medium (to maintain the temperature in the pan), add the crab cakes, working in batches, if necessary, and cook until the undersides are golden brown (lift one gently with a spatula to take a peek), about 3 minutes. Carefully turn the crab cakes and cook until the second side is golden, too, another 2 to 3 minutes.
Transfer the crab cakes to a serving platter. Serve immediately, with the sliced beefsteak tomatoes.
MAKES 1/4 CUP