I was in Spain the first time I saw mayonnaise slathered on fish. My former mother-in-law had covered a cod, head to tail, with an entire jar of Hellmann’s and baked it. That whole cod, up to its eyeballs in browned mayonnaise, did something to me! Flash-forward to the early days of Little Owl. The former New York Times food critic Frank Bruni came for dinner on a terrifically busy night made more chaotic because my stove was on the fritz! I had only half of my burners working and, luckily, my salamander broiler, but I had a full-to-the-brim restaurant. Mr. Bruni ordered the halibut. It was supposed to be pan-seared over a sweet and tiny corn and pea salad—the first of the spring’s bounty that year. But I didn’t have any room on the stove to cook it! So, in a jolt of inspiration (panic? act of bold confidence?), I mixed some homemade pesto into aioli, slathered it on his fish, and stuck it under the broiler. Somewhere in me, the memory of my mother-in-law’s mayonnaise fish seized me, and I captured the moment to make it my own. My sous chef Gustavo looked at me doubtfully and said, “You sure you want to do that?” And I am so glad that I did! The unforgettable creamy crust on the halibut was the most celebrated dish in his review. And it’s become a Little Owl spring favorite on my menu ever since.
To make your life easier, you can simply bake this in the oven at 425°F [220°C] to achieve the same result. Note: The cook time truly depends on the thickness of your fillet, but a good test is to flake the fish with a fork—if it flakes easily, it is done. And here’s a comforting thought: Don’t worry about overcooking your fish; the basil pesto mayonnaise crust keeps the fish juicy. And if you use frozen peas or corn, just follow the cooking directions on the package.
SERVES 4
3 ears fresh corn, in the husk, or 1 cup [140 g] frozen corn kernels
1 cup [150 g] fresh peas, shucked, or 1 cup [120 g] frozen peas
1/4 cup plus 1 Tbsp [80 ml] Basil Pesto (page 125)
1/4 cup [60 g] good store-bought mayonnaise
8 red grape tomatoes, halved
1/2 cup [30 g] snow pea sprouts
1 small handful frisée (or other fresh salad green, such as watercress or arugula)
8 thin slices red onion
2 Tbsp Sherry Shallot Vinaigrette (page 69)
Kosher salt
Freshly ground black pepper
Four 6 oz [170 g] center-cut skinless halibut fillets (or an alternate thicker-cut fish like swordfish or cod)
Preheat the oven to 425°F [220°C].
Place the ears of corn on the center rack of the oven and roast for 45 minutes. Remove and set aside to cool.
Prepare an ice water bath by filling a large bowl (preferably metal) with cold water and ice cubes. Set aside.
Meanwhile, in a large pot over high heat, bring 6 cups [1.4 L] of water to a boil. Add the fresh peas to the boiling water and cook until the peas float to the top, about 30 seconds. Continue to cook for about 1 minute longer; these little nuggets are hard and take some time. You’ll know they’re ready if you taste one—it should be tender yet firm and pop in your mouth. Use a large skimmer spoon to immediately transfer the peas to the ice water bath (this stops the cooking process and retains the peas’ bright springtime-green color) and let cool for 1 minute. Drain in a colander and set aside. Want my two cents on this big-deal prep for these little peas? Springtime comes but once a year and fresh peas deserve your loving preparation. (I know you did right by them.)
In a small bowl, combine 1/4 cup [60 ml] of the pesto and the mayonnaise and whisk thoroughly to combine. Set aside.
Peel the corn and remove the kernels from the cob by holding the cob upright on a cutting board and running the blade of a kitchen knife down the sides of each ear. Collect the kernels and place them in a medium bowl. Add the peas, tomatoes, pea sprouts, frisée, red onion, remaining 1 Tbsp of basil pesto, and the vinaigrette. Season with a pinch of salt and grinds of pepper and use tongs to toss well. Set aside.
Line a large baking sheet with aluminum foil and use your hands to rub 2 Tbsp of butter all over the foil so that the fish doesn’t stick.
Place the halibut fillets about 2 in [5 cm] apart on the prepared baking sheet and generously season them with salt and pepper on both sides. Smear the basil pesto mayonnaise over the top of each fillet and cook until the basil pesto mayonnaise transforms into a creamy, melted crust with bubbly brown spots in some parts, 8 to 10 minutes.
Divide the corn and pea salad among four plates and set the halibut fillets on top. Serve immediately.
