FISH FEAR Tell me the truth: Has the fear of bones, fins, eyeballs, and faces stopped you from cooking a whole fish at home? If so, I invite you to work through your fish issues with me. One time I had to cook sardines for a famous actor and he ate everything. Every. Thing. I don’t like the way eyeballs taste, but he loved them—even I had an issue with that one! But, I want you to know that by cooking a fish whole (with head and skeleton intact), you can make a deeply flavored fish with a moist and succulent texture. And the presentation is simply beautiful. And that, my friend, is an opportunity to earn some big confidence in the kitchen. So, let’s embrace it with a simple, confidence-boosting recipe, shall we?
The most important thing when preparing whole fish is to source your fish at a grocery store that has a reputation for expertly handling fresh fish. Or if you have a fish market in your hometown, go there! (In New York, if I am not cooking my own catch, I go to Citarella or the Lobster Place in Chelsea Market.) Rest assured that the messy work is already done for you—any fish that is on display has already been eviscerated, meaning that anything that would make that fish highly perishable (stomach and guts) has been removed. It has also been bled and scaled. But, if you see a fish with fins or gills left on it, just ask the person at the counter to remove them. And if you really can’t bear the sight of eyeballs, yes, indeed you can ask them to remove the head. It will still taste delicious. You can use this recipe for any whole fish that you love, including porgy (orata in Italian or dorade in French), black sea bass, or red snapper. Most whole fish are in the 11/4 to 11/2 lb [570 to 680 g] range, which includes the weight of the head and skeleton, so one fish per person is a perfect amount.
SERVES 4
6 fresh basil leaves
2 Tbsp finely chopped fresh Italian parsley leaves
1/4 cup [40 g] kalamata olives, pitted
2 fresh white Spanish boquerone anchovies (or in a pinch, use 4 saltier, olive oil–packed anchovy fillets, drained)
1 large lemon, halved (reserve half and slice the other half into thin rings)
1/4 cup [60 ml] olive oil, plus more for drizzling
2 Tbsp sherry vinegar
Kosher salt
Freshly ground black pepper
Four 11/4 to 11/2 lb [570 to 680 g] whole fish, scaled, gutted, and cleaned (see headnote)
4 garlic cloves, smashed
2 small white onions, ends trimmed, peeled, and thinly sliced
4 sprigs fresh thyme
Preheat the oven to 375°F [190°C]. Line a large baking sheet with parchment paper and use your hands to rub 2 Tbsp of butter all over the parchment so that the fish doesn’t stick. Set aside.
In a blender, add the basil, parsley, olives, anchovies, the juice of the reserved lemon half, 1/4 cup [60 ml] olive oil, the sherry vinegar, a pinch of salt, and a few grinds of pepper and blend until awesome (and smooth), about 20 seconds. Set aside.
Place the fish on the baking sheet and generously season the cavity of each one with salt and pepper. Stuff each cavity with some lemon slices, a garlic clove, some onion slices, and a sprig of thyme. Drizzle the outside of each with olive oil and generously season the skin with salt and pepper.
Place in the oven and cook until the skin is crispy and the flesh underneath the thickest part of the fish (near the head) easily flakes when you poke it with a fork, 15 to 18 minutes, depending on the size of your fish. (And because I know some of you out there went ahead and had the head removed, please note that then the cook time could be as little as 13 minutes. Just saying.)
Transfer the fish to a beautiful serving platter and spoon over the olive vinaigrette. Serve immediately.
A KISS OF PIZZAZZ ON YOUR FISH I love to top a simple piece of grilled fish or oven-roasted whole fish with a variety of fresh salsas or a quick pepper-fennel relish. They add a flavor component that is refreshing and bright right on top of whatever your catch is. Cooking the fennel makes it sweet and soft, and store-bought roasted peppers save you time! All these variations are delicious on top of Juicy Bread (see page 168) for a scrumptious bruschetta.
MAKES ABOUT 1 CUP [240 ML]
MAKES ABOUT 1 CUP [240 ML]
In a medium pan, add the oil, fennel, and a generous pinch of salt and then turn the heat to medium-high and cook, undisturbed, until the fennel gets very brown, about 21/2 minutes. Using a wooden spoon, begin to stir continuously, until the fennel is browned all over and becomes soft and fragrant (little pieces may stick to the pan—it’s OK), 3 to 4 more minutes. This process is similar to caramelizing onions (see “The Ugly Part,” page 61), so the fennel will look a little ugly but will taste great in the relish! Remove from the heat and set aside.
In a medium bowl, combine the peppers, anchovies, capers, lemon juice, olive oil, and basil. Add the fennel and mix well with a wooden spoon until combined.
Serve as you wish! Transfer to an airtight container and store in your refrigerator for up to 4 days.
