North

The Mughals are widely believed to have introduced the tradition of biryanis in India. As their seat of power was in north India, one would have expected more biryanis and pulaos in this part of the country. But the truth is that there are more biryanis in the south, not just in Hyderabad but also in Tamil Nadu and Kerala. One reason for this could be that north Indians are not essentially rice eaters. Also, the north has historically been in the stranglehold of vegetarianism as much of the Hindu north, consisting primarily of Brahmins and Vaisyas, have always been vegetarian. The Jain religion, with its strong culture of non-violence and vegetarianism, has also played a role in keeping the north off the meats, as has the monotheistic Arya Samaj movement that swept over much of Punjab, Haryana, and UP in the nineteenth century. That is why so many Hindu communities like the Jats and the Bishnois are predominantly vegetarian. Despite their robust and warlike ways, the Sikhs have also largely stuck to vegetarianism, especially sects like the Namdhari Sikhs. The Radha Soami movement, that began in Punjab and spread to Haryana, Himachal Pradesh, and Western UP, further strengthened these foundations.

Biryanis did develop in the north, but in the Muslim centres—in the Mughal capital of Delhi, the Awadh centre of Lucknow and in the small principalities ruled by Muslim princes. Though it might be argued that Delhi and Lucknow are traditionally not biryani but pulao places, the fact remains and, as the recipes that follow will show, some of the most exquisite biryanis in the subcontinent are made in these two places today. Both the Mughlai and Awadhi food is highly subtle and refined, as are their pulaos and biryanis. They are also lighter in colour because of the use of yoghurt and dry fruits, especially almonds. During the Mughal era, Hindu vegetarianism also absorbed many of influences of the non-vegetarian dishes. Thus, we find a large number of vegetarian pulaos and some vegetarian biryanis in this region as well.

Gosht Biryani (Lucknow)

Another one of those scented biryanis made with almonds, melon seeds, and cream. Rich and aromatic, it is ideal for special meals.

Preparation time: 20 minutes

Marination time: 30 minutes

Cooking time: 50 minutes

Serves: 8–10

1	kg mutton, cut into medium sized pieces (a mix of meat from the shoulder, a few chops and a few pieces from puth i.e. the backbone)
2 3 2 1½	cups yoghurt, whisked tbs ginger paste tbs garlic paste tsp red chilli powder
8–10 2	almonds, blanched and skin peeled tbs watermelon and musk melon seeds
1 1     1 4	tsp caraway seeds tsp peppercorns A few mace flakes (3–4) A small piece of nutmeg 1 inch cinnamon stick green cardamoms
500 2 ½ 2 ½ 1 3 ½	gm long grain rice medium onions, ground tsp saffron tbs screwpine water cup warm milk tbs ghee tbs thick cream cup oil Salt

1. Marinate the mutton: Wash the mutton and drain it of all water. Mix the meat with all the ingredients at A, B, and C and salt. Marinate for 30 minutes.

2. Prepare the rice: Wash and soak the rice in liberal quantity of water for 15–20 minutes, then drain the water. Boil 2½ litres of water with a little salt. Once the water starts to boil, add the rice and cook for about 5–6 minutes till it is half done. Drain the water and transfer the rice to a wide pan.

3. Cook the mutton: Heat the oil and fry the onions till golden brown. Add the marinated meat and keep stirring till it comes to a boil. Add a little water and cook for 25 minutes till the meat is tender. When done, the meat should have 2 cups of gravy left.

4. Assemble and serve: Take a heavy bottomed pan and smear it with oil. Place two thirds of the rice in it, followed by the cooked meat with the gravy. Cover this with the balance rice. Sprinkle saffron dissolved in screwpine water and milk, ghee, and cream. Cover with a tight fitting lid and cook first on high flame for 1–2 minutes and then on low flame for about 10–15 minutes till the rice is done and steaming. Serve hot.

Ananas ki Biryani (Lucknow)

There are indeed many fruit biryanis, this one made with pineapple. It not only makes the biryani mildly sweet but also tenderizes the meat.

Preparation time: 30 minutes

Marination time: 1 hour

Cooking time: 50 minutes

Serves: 8

1	kg mutton, cut into medium pieces (a mix of meat from shoulder, chops and puth i.e. meat pieces cut from the backbone)
1 1½ 1 ⅓ ¼ 2 1½ ⅔	tbs ginger paste tsp garlic paste tbs green chilli paste cup coriander leaves, chopped cup mint leaves onions, sliced cups yoghurt, whisked cup pineapple, cut into ½ inch pieces
500   3 50	gm long grain rice Juice of half a lime for rice onions, finely sliced gm khus khus (poppy seeds), ground into a fine paste
1 2 1 2 4 1 2-3 ½	bay leaf green cardamoms black cardamom 1 inch cinnamon sticks cloves small piece of nutmeg mace flakes tsp caraway seeds
10 10–15 2 1	cashew nuts raisins tbs ghee cup oil Salt

1. Marinate the mutton: Mix the mutton well with all the ingredients at A and leave it for an hour.

2. Prepare the rice: Wash and soak the rice in water for about 20 minutes, then drain. Boil about 2 litres of water. Once the water starts to boil, add a little salt, the juice of half a lime together with rice. Cook for about 6–7 minutes till the rice is two thirds done.

3. Fry the onions: Take a large heavy bottomed pan and heat the oil. Fry the onions till they turn golden. Remove and set aside. Crush when it cools down.

4. Cook the mutton: In the same oil, add the mutton with the marinade, stirring continuously till the liquids come to a boil. Keep on stirring for another 1–2 minutes, then add salt. Cover and cook on medium flame for about 20–25 minutes till the meat is 90 percent done. Then add the poppy seeds, crushed onions, and the spices at B. Add a little water and cover and cook for another 5 minutes. When done, the meat should have about one glass gravy in it.

5. Assemble: Take a heavy bottomed pan and smear it with ghee. Place half the rice in it followed by the meat with the gravy. Add the balance rice on top and sprinkle a little water. Now cover this with a tight fitting lid and cook on dum till the dish is steaming hot and the rice done.

6. Garnish and serve: Heat 2 tbs ghee. Fry the cashew nuts till golden and set them aside. Add the raisins and fry till they swell up. Spread the ghee with the cashew nuts and raisins over the rice. Serve hot.

Rose Biryani (Lucknow)

Rose biryani is so named because it is flavoured with rose water and garnished with dried rose petals. It is a delicate biryani, made with mutton balls. How the Mughal biryanis were traditionally made is not really recorded. But obviously, they would have started with meat, which could be mutton, beef or poultry.

Preparation time: 15 minutes

Cooking time: 1 hour 30 minutes

Serves: 8

250 1 1 1 ½     4–5 500	gm lean mutton, minced tsp grated ginger tsp crushed garlic tsp red chilli powder tsp garam masala A few sprigs of fresh green coriander, chopped A few mint leaves, chopped onions, finely sliced gm boneless mutton pieces, about 2 inches in size, (beaten with a mallet or lightly beaten with the sharp end of a knife to help absorption of spices)
2 4 1	bay leaves green cardamoms inch cinnamon stick
6–8   1 1 1 1 2 500 ½ 2	green chillies chopped A few sprigs of fresh green coriander, chopped tsp yellow chilli powder tsp coriander powder tsp cumin powder cup yoghurt, whisked tbs rose water gm long grain rice tsp saffron, crushed and soaked in ½ cup warm milk tbs ghee Oil for frying Salt

1. Prepare the meatballs: Put the minced mutton in a bowl. Add half of the ginger and garlic, red chilli powder, garam masala, coriander, mint, and salt. Mix well. Form into about 12 equal sized meat balls (koftas). Set aside.

2. Cook the meatballs: Heat oil in a saucepan and fry the onions till golden brown. Remove and place on an absorbent paper. When cool, crush half of the onions and reserve. In the same oil, fry the meatballs on medium flame, gently turning them so that they are evenly browned and cooked. Remove and set aside.

3. Cook the mutton: Wash the meat pieces and drain the water. Take a heavy bottomed pan and heat about 60 gm of oil from the same oil in which the onions were fried. Add the whole spices at A and salt followed in a few seconds by the balance ginger and garlic. Fry for a few seconds. Now add the green chillies and fresh coriander followed by red chilli powder, coriander powder, cumin powder and salt and the meat pieces. Fry for 6–7 minutes. Add the yoghurt, and keep stirring vigorously to prevent curdling. Fry till the oil starts to separate from the meat. Add a little water and cook the meat covered for about 25 minutes, till tender. When done, the meat should have about 1 cup gravy left. Sprinkle the crushed onions over the meat together with 1 tbs rose water.

4. Prepare the rice: Wash and soak the rice in water for about 20 minutes, then drain out the water. Boil 2¼ litres of water with a little salt. Once the water starts to boil, add the rice and cook for about 5–6 minutes till it is half done. Drain the water from the rice.

5. Assemble and serve: Spread the par boiled rice over the meat. Sprinkle the balance rose water, saffron milk and the fried onion over the rice. Dot with ghee. Arrange the fried meatballs over the rice and cover with a tight fitting lid. Cook first on medium-high flame for about 2 minutes till the steam starts to form. Then reduce flame to low and cook on dum for about 25 minutes till the dish is steaming hot and the rice done. Carefully transfer to a nice serving dish and serve hot.

Motiye ki Biryani (Lucknow)

Motiye ki Biryani is called so as it is perfumed with the essence of jasmine or motiya. This is a classic Awadhi biryani, made with saffron and cream.

Preparation time: 20 minutes

Cooking time: 1 hour 10 minutes

Serves: 8–10

1     5 2 4–5 4 2 1½ 1½ 1 1	kg mutton from a small goat, a mix of medium sized pieces from the shoulder, a few chops and a few pieces from the breast onions, sliced bay leaves cloves green cardamoms 1 inch cinnamon sticks tbs ginger paste tbs garlic paste tsp yellow chilli powder cup yoghurt, whisked
650   1 2–3 ⅓   1¼ 1	gm long grain rice Juice of half a lime tbs ginger juliennes green chillies, chopped cup fresh green coriander, chopped A few mint leaves cup ghee–oil, mixed tsp oil Salt

1. Prepare the mutton: Wash the mutton and put it in a colander for the water to drain. Heat the ghee–oil mixture in a heavy-base pan, large enough to take the meat and rice. Add the sliced onions and fry till golden brown. Remove half and set aside. Add the whole spices, followed in a few seconds by the ginger and garlic paste. After a minute or so, add meat and fry for 3–4 minutes. Add salt and yellow chilli powder and fry for another 1–2 minutes. Then add yoghurt and stir briskly. Continue stirring till the contents come to a boil and for 1 more minute thereafter. Cover and cook till the liquids quite dry up and the oil starts to surface. Now add water and cook covered on medium to slow flame till the meat is tender. When done, the meat should have about 1¼ cup of gravy left. At this stage, put together all the ingredients at A and mix. Add half of these to the meat, mix gently and cover.

2. Prepare the rice: Wash and soak the rice in water for 20 minutes. Bring 3 litres of water to a boil. Drain and add the rice, salt, juice of half a lime, and 1 tsp of oil. Cook for 6–7 minutes till the rice is two-thirds done. Drain the water and transfer the rice to a flat pan.

3. Assemble: Heat the pan with the meat. Spread half of the ginger juliennes, green chillies, fresh coriander, mint, and half of the fried onions over the meat. Cover with half of the rice. Spread the balance of the ingredients at A and ginger juliennes, green chilli, coriander and mint over the rice. Cover with the balance rice. Sprinkle a little water. Cover the dish with a tight-fitting lid. Cook for the first 2 minutes on high flame and then low for about 15 minutes till the rice is ready and steaming hot.

4. Serve: Take out in large chunks from the sides, without disturbing the layers. Serve steaming hot.

Dumpukht Biryani (Lucknow)

A slow-fire biryani, it is cooked with tomato puree as the base and scented traditionally with saffron and screwpine water. A gentle sprinkling of powdered nutmeg and mace further enhances the flavour.

Preparation time: 20–30 minutes

Marination time: 4–5 hours

Cooking time: 1 hour 10 minutes

Serves: 8–10

1	kg boneless mutton, cut into medium sized pieces
10–12 ⅓ 2 ½ 1 2 1	green chillies, chopped cup fresh green coriander, chopped tsp red chilli powder tsp turmeric powder tsp garam masala cups hung yoghurt, whisked tbs raw green papaya paste (pulp and skin ground together)
4–5 500 4 2 2	tomatoes, chopped gm long grain rice medium onions, finely sliced tsp ginger paste tsp garlic paste
2 2	tbs muskmelon seeds tbs poppy seeds
½ ½ 2 ½ 2 ⅔ 60	tsp nutmeg, powdered tsp mace, powdered tbs ghee tsp saffron, lightly roasted and crushed tbs screwpine water cup warm milk gm oil Salt

1. Marinate the meat: Mix the mutton with all the ingredients at A and salt. Rub the mixture well into the meat. Leave it to marinate for 4–5 hours.

2 Prepare the tomato puree: Add ½ cup of water to the tomatoes and boil covered, till tender. When cool, strain to extract tomato puree.

3. Prepare the rice: Wash and soak the rice in water for about 20 minutes. Boil 2 litres of water with a little salt. Add rice and cook till for about 5–6 minutes till it is half done. Drain the water and transfer the rice to a wide pan and set aside.

4. Assemble and serve: Heat oil in a heavy-base pan, large enough to take the meat and rice. Fry the onions till golden brown. Add the ginger and garlic paste and fry for 1–2 minutes. Add the ground seeds and fry for another 1–2 minutes. Then add the tomato puree, a little salt, and cook till the oil starts to surface. Add the marinated meat to the cooked puree and mix. Arrange half the rice over the meat mixture. Sprinkle nutmeg and mace powder. Cover with balance rice and sprinkle with ghee. Mix together saffron, screwpine water and milk and sprinkle over the rice. Cover with a tight fitting lid. Now place the pan with the meat and rice over a girdle and cover tightly by or placing a heavy stone over the cover to prevent the steam from escaping. Cook for the first 1–2 minutes on high flame, then on dum, for about 50 minutes till the meat and rice are done. Serve hot.

Purani Dilli ki Ande aur Sabzion ki Biryani (Delhi)

This is an example of a biryani made like a pulao. A vegetable biryani, it is made with carrots, potatoes and peas and enriched with ghee and eggs.

Preparation time: 25 minutes

Cooking time: 30 minutes

Serves: 8

500 1 1 2 250 2 3 ½ 3–4 4 4–5 1 2 2 4 ½ 2 50

gm long grain rice tbs garlic paste tbs ginger juliennes onions, chopped coarsely gm shelled peas potatoes, cut into medium sized pieces carrots, cut into about ½ inch to ¾ inch pieces tsp yellow chilli powder green chillies, slit green cardamoms, cracked open cloves 1 inch cinnamon stick bay leaves tomatoes, chopped hard-boiled eggs tsp saffron, soaked in ⅓ cup milk tbs melted ghee gm oil Salt

1. Soak the rice: Wash and soak rice in liberal quantity of water for 15–20 minutes, then drain.

2. Cook the vegetables: Heat oil in a heavy bottomed pan. Add garlic paste followed in a few seconds by ginger juliennes. Add the chopped onions, followed in a few seconds by the chopped vegetables. After frying the vegetables for 2–3 minutes add the yellow chilli powder, green chillies, the whole spices and salt. Fry for 2–3 minutes and add the chopped tomatoes. Mix well and cook on medium flame for 2–3 minutes.

3. Assemble and serve: Add the previously soaked rice, mix and add hot water up to 1 inch over the surface of rice. Cook covered first on high flame for 1–2 minutes and then on medium-slow flame for about 2–3 minutes. Reduce flame to low. When the rice is more than half done, add the hard-boiled eggs, ghee, and saffron milk. Mix gently and reduce flame. Cook covered for about 10 minutes till the rice is done, yet each grain separate. Let the biryani rest, tightly covered, for 5 minutes. Serve hot.

Purani Dilli ki Gosht ki Biryani (Delhi)

This is a recipe from the Turkman Gate area of old Delhi. It is made with golden sella rice, a long grained variety of basmati rice, used in the making of biryanis.

Preparation time: 10 minutes

Soaking time: 2 hours

Cooking time: 1 hour 10 minutes

Serves: 8

1 2 3 1 500 5 5 1 1 1 5–6 ½ 1½   2 60

kg mutton from the raan (leg) of a small goat, cut into medium sized pieces onions, quartered tsp garlic paste tsp yellow chilli powder gm golden sella rice, soaked in liberal quantity of water for 2 hours cloves green cardamoms, cracked open 1 inch cinnamon stick cup yoghurt, whisked tbs ginger juliennes green chillies, slit tsp saffron, crushed tbs kewra water (screwpine water) A pinch of saffron-coloured edible food colour tbs ghee gm ghee/oil Salt

1. Prepare the mutton: Wash the meat and put it in a colander for the water to drain. In a heavy bottomed pan, heat ghee or oil, whatever you may wish to use. Add the mutton, quartered onions, garlic paste, yellow chilli powder, and salt and fry covered for about 7–8 minutes on medium-slow flame. Add about 1½ glasses of water and cook covered on slow flame for about 20–25 minutes till the meat is about 90 percent cooked. There should be about ½ a cup of gravy left when the meat is 90 percent done.

2. Prepare the rice: Meanwhile, boil about 2 litres of water. Add cloves, cardamom, cinnamon, and salt. Once the water starts to boil, add the previously soaked rice and cook for 7–8 minutes till it is 80 percent done.

3. Assemble and serve: Mix yoghurt with ginger julienne, green chillies, saffron and a very small pinch of edible saffron coloured food colour. Spread the yoghurt over the meat. Do not mix with meat. Spread the par-boiled rice over the yoghurt, again without mixing. Sprinkle kewra water and 2 tbs ghee. Add a little hot water so as to reach 1 inch above the surface of rice. Cover tightly and cook on high flame for about 2 minutes and then on dum for about 20–30 minutes till both the meat and rice are done. Mix and serve hot.

Kofta Biryani (Delhi)

Kofta Biryani is a biryani of mince balls cooked in mutton stock and flavoured with saffron.

Preparation time: 30 minutes

Cooking time: 50 minutes

Serves: 4–6

300 250	gm mutton mince gm long grain rice
1 2 6–8 ½ 1 2	onion, finely chopped tbs fresh green coriander, chopped green chillies, finely chopped tsp garam masala tsp red chilli powder heaped tbs roasted gram, without skin, powdered
4 1 6 4 1	medium onions, finely sliced bay leaf cloves green cardamoms 1 inch cinnamon stick
3 –3½ ½ 1	glasses mutton stock tsp saffron tbs ghee Oil to fry Salt

1. Prepare the mince mutton: Grind the minced mutton on a sil batta to make very fine mince.

2. Soak the rice: Wash and soak the rice in water for about 15 minutes. Drain and set aside.

3. Prepare the mince balls: Mix the mince with all the ingredients at A and salt. Take a heaped tablespoon and make it into a round ball about 2 inches by 2 inches in size. Repeat the procedure and make balls or koftas out of the remaining mince. Heat oil in a heavy bottomed pan. Fry the mince balls, a few at a time, to a rich golden brown. Remove and set aside.

4. Assemble and serve: Keep about 50 gm oil from the same oil in which the koftas were fried and remove the rest. Heat the oil and fry the onions till they turn pink. Then add the whole spices at B and fry till the onions are golden brown. Add rice and fry for 1–2 minutes. Add mutton stock, salt, ghee and saffron. The stock should come 1¼ inches over the surface of the rice. Once the liquid comes to a boil, cook covered on medium-slow flame for 7–8 minutes till the rice is two thirds done. At this stage, add the fried koftas and mix gently. Cover tightly and cook on dum for about 10 minutes till the rice is done. Serve hot.

Mutton Biryani (Delhi)

Though called a biryani, the process of cooking this dish is more pulao-like. Mutton and rice are not marinated but boiled and cooked in mutton stock on slow fire. Also, there is no use of saffron or screwpine water.

Preparation time: 15 minutes

Cooking time: 50 minutes

Serves: 8–10 minutes

1	kg mutton (a mix of medium sized pieces from the shoulder, a few mutton chops and a few marrow bones with meat on)
2 4 1 4 1 1 1	medium sized onions, quartered garlic cloves bay leaf green cardamoms, crushed open at the end black cardamom, opened 1 inch cinnamon stick tsp peppercorns
500 4 ½ ½ 4	gm long grain rice onions, finely sliced tsp garam masala tsp pepper powder glasses mutton stock
	A few sprigs of fresh green coriander, chopped A few mint leaves 2–3 green chillies, slit
1 ½	heaped tbs ghee cup oil Salt

1. Prepare mutton stock: Wash the mutton. Place the mutton in a pressure cooker with all the ingredients at A and 6 glasses of water. Pressure cook on high flame till it whistles once. Lower heat and cook for about 10–15 minutes till the meat is tender. Once the pressure subsides a little, open the pressure cooker. Strain to get a clear stock. Pick out the meat pieces and set aside..

2. Soak the rice: Simultaneously, wash and soak the rice in water for about 20 minutes. Drain and set aside.

3. Assemble and serve: In a heavy bottomed pan, heat the oil and fry the onions till they turn pale gold. Add garam masala, pepper powder, and the meat pieces and fry for 2–3 minutes. Add the rice and fry for another 1–2 minutes. Then add the mutton stock and all the ingredients at B, till the liquid is 1 inch over the surface of rice and meat. Cook tightly covered, first on high flame till the stock comes to a boil and then on dum for about 10–15 minutes till the rice is done with each grain separate. Serve hot.

Babu Shahi’s Matka Peer Biryani (Delhi)

Near the old fort, not far from the Delhi Zoo, is the ancient shrine of a Muslim saint called Matka Peer. An old tree near the shrine is laden with matkas (clay pots) containing offerings by devotees of the saint. Near the shrine is the small restaurant of Babu Shahi, a frail ninety year old man, who looks like a saint himself. A gentle soul with a flowing white beard and proud bearing, he patiently spelled out this famed biryani recipe to me.

Preparation time: 10 minutes

Soaking time: 2 hours

Cooking time: 1 hour

Serves: 8

1 1   1 1	kg golden sella rice kg mutton, a mix of medium sized mutton pieces from the leg of a small goat, a few chops and a few pieces from puth (the backbone) tbs garlic paste tbs ginger paste
10 10 2 ½ 2 3–4 6 1	green cardamoms cloves 1 inch cinnamon sticks tsp peppercorns black cardamoms bay leaves dry whole red chillies tsp chilli powder
100+50   50 100	gm yoghurt, whisked A pinch of yellow edible food colour gm ghee gm oil Salt

1. Soak the rice: Wash and soak the rice in water for about 2 hours.

2. Prepare the mutton: Wash and place the meat in a colander for the water to drain out. Heat 100 gm oil in a heavy bottomed pan large enough to take both the meat and the rice. Add the garlic paste. Once it turns golden brown, add the meat, and all the ingredients at A and fry for about 5 minutes. Then add the 100 gm whisked yoghurt. Mix and stir continuously till the contents come to a boil and then cook for another 1–2 minutes thereafter. Add salt and continue cooking on medium slow flame for about 6–8 minutes till the spices blend and become homogeneous and the oil starts to surface. Add a little water (about 3 glasses) and cook covered till the meat is almost tender. Mix the yellow food colour with 50 gm whisked yoghurt and add to the meat. Mix and cook for a further 2 minutes. When done, the meat should have about 1 cup gravy left.

3. Prepare the rice: Heat about 4 litres of water with salt for the rice. Once the water starts boiling, add the previously soaked rice and cook for 7–8 minutes till it is three fourths done. Drain the water from the rice.

4. Assemble and serve: Spread the rice over the meat and cook tightly covered, for the first 2 minutes on high flame and then on low flame for about 10 minutes till the meat and rice are fully done. Take care that the rice doesn’t get soggy and that each grain is separate. When done, pour the ghee over the rice. Take out the biryani from the sides in large chunks without mixing the meat and the rice. Serve hot.

Santare ki Biryani–I (Delhi)

A unique biryani made with oranges, this has a distinct edge as it is made not just with the juice but also with the rind of the fruit.

Preparation time: 10 minutes

Cooking time: 50 minutes

Serves: 8

500 2 1	gm long grain rice oranges kg mutton, cut into medium sized pieces
2 2 2 ¼	bay leaves black cardamoms, crushed 1 inch cinnamon sticks tsp grated nutmeg
2 ½ ½	tbs ginger juice tsp saffron, crushed and dissolved in 2 tbs water cup ghee–oil, mixed Salt

1. Prepare the rice: Wash and soak rice in water for 15–20 minutes, then drain out the water. Boil 2 litres of water. Once the water starts to boil, add the rice with a little salt, and cook for about 5–6 minutes till it is half done. Drain and transfer the rice to a wide pan. Set it aside.

2. Prepare the orange juice: Squeeze the juice of two oranges. Remove the inner white thread-like part from the peel. Slice the peel of half an orange finely into medium sized pieces. Boil with just 1 cup water for about a minute. Drain the water and set aside.

3. Prepare the mutton: Wash and place the meat in a colander and let the water drain out completely. In a heavy pan, large enough to take the meat and rice, heat ghee–oil mix. Add all the ingredients at A along with the meat and fry for about 7–8 minutes. Add just sufficient water and cook till the meat is tender and somewhat dry. Add the orange juice and the rind and also the ginger juice to the meat. Cover with par-boiled rice. Sprinkle saffron dissolved in water over the rice.

4. Assemble and serve: Cover with a tight fitting lid and cook for the first 2 minutes on medium-high flame to heat up the dish and the initial steam to form and then on low flame for about 10–15 minutes till the rice is done. Serve hot.

Santare ki Biryani–II (Delhi)

In this biryani, the sharpness of the orange juice and the orange rind is tempered with rose water, saffron and slivers of almonds.

Preparation time: 15–20 minutes

Cooking time: 1 hour

Serves: 8–10

1 2 1 1½ 4–5 500 1 2–3 ¾ 1 ½ 2 12–15 1 ½

kg mutton, cut into medium sized pieces medium onions, roughly chopped tbs ginger paste tsp peppercorns medium-large onions, finely sliced, fried golden brown and crushed when cool gm long grain rice bay leaf green cardamoms cup orange juice tbs rind of orange, sliced into small pieces tsp saffron, dissolved in half cup warm milk tbs rose water almonds, blanched and slivered tbs ghee cup oil Salt

1. Cook the mutton: Wash and drain the mutton pieces of water. Heat the oil, add the mutton and fry for about 5–6 minutes, after which add onions, ginger paste, peppercorns, salt and fry for another 5 minutes. Add a little water and cook till the meat gets tender. Add the crushed onions and fry for another 1–2 minutes. When done, the meat should have a sufficient coating of gravy on it.

2. Prepare the rice: Wash and soak the rice for about 20 minutes. Boil about 2 litres of water with the bay leaf, 2–3 green cardamoms, and salt. When the water starts to boil, add the rice and cook for 7–8 minutes till it is three fourths done. Drain the water and transfer the rice to a wide dish.

3. Assemble and cook on dum: Smear a heavy bottomed pan with a little oil. Spread half of the rice on it. Place the cooked meat over the rice. Pour the orange juice over the meat and also sprinkle the orange rind. Cover it with the balance rice and sprinkle the saffron milk and rose water over the rice. Also add the slivered almonds and then dot it with ghee. Cover with a tight fitting lid and cook for the first 3 minutes on medium-high flame till the steam starts to form, then reduce the heat to low and cook on dum for about 10 minutes till the dish is steaming hot and rice done without getting mushy. Serve hot.

Kabab Biryani (Delhi)

This is an extraordinary biryani made with barbecued mutton brushed with butter, cream, saffron and beaten eggs. The most unusual feature of this biryani is the subtle tandoori flavour of the tender kabab fused with fragrant rice.

Preparation time: 15–20 minutes

Marination time: 3 hours

Cooking time: 1 hour

Serves: 8–10

1	kg boneless mutton, cut into medium sized pieces (about 1½”–2”)
2 1½ 1½ 1½ 1	medium onions, ground tsp ginger paste tsp garlic paste tsp freshly ground pepper powder tbs raw green papaya paste (pulp and skin ground together) Juice of 2 limes
500	gm long grain rice
50 2 ½ 2 ½ 1	gm butter tbs cream tsp saffron, lightly roasted and crushed eggs, beaten tsp freshly ground pepper powder tbs butter
½	tsp cassia buds powder A few mint leaves Oil Salt

1. Marinate the meat: Wash the meat and drain the water out. Mix the meat with all the ingredients at A together with 3 tbs oil and salt, and leave it to marinate for 3 hours.

2. Prepare the rice: Wash and soak rice in water for 20 minutes. Boil about 2 litres of water with salt. When the water starts to boil, add the rice and cook till tender. Put the rice in a colander and drain the water. Return rice immediately to the pan. Mix the beaten eggs with pepper and butter and add it to the rice, mixing gently. Cover and let the rice simmer on low heat for about 2 minutes.

3. Make the kabab: Pass a skewer(s) through the marinated meat pieces and barbeque over live charcoals of medium-low intensity. Baste with butter, cream and saffron mix as at B, while grilling the meat for a few minutes till tender and brown. Remove from skewers, cover and set aside.

4. Assemble and cook on dum: Take a heavy bottomed pan and place half the rice in the pan. Spread the grilled meat over it, sprinkle cassia buds powder and cover with the balance rice. Sprinkle a little water, then cover tightly and let the dish simmer on dum for about 5 minutes.

5. Garnish and serve: Gently take out the rice from the sides and serve hot in a largish platter, garnished with just a few mint leaves. Serve hot.

Moti Pulao (Delhi)

Moti Pulao is called so because the meatballs coated with the silver leaves glow like pearls in the rice. A refined and aromatic dish, it is gently flavoured with saffron and screwpine essence.

Preparation time: 10 minutes

Cooking time: 1 hour

Serves: 6

1	kg mutton bones (for stock only)
1 8–10 2 1 2 2	tsp peppercorns cloves bay leaves 1 inch cinnamon stick black cardamoms green cardamoms
400 ½	gm long grain rice kg boneless mutton, finely minced
1 1 6–8 ¼ ½	egg white, beaten tbs cornflour green chillies, finely chopped cup fresh green coriander, chopped tsp garam masala
3–4 2 4–5 1½ 1½ 1½ 1 1 ½ ½ 1   1–2 3 1 50	silver leaves (chandi ke warq) to coat the meatballs medium onions, finely sliced cloves tsp ginger paste tsp garlic paste tsp red chilli powder tbs musk and watermelon seeds, finely ground cup yoghurt, whisked tsp saffron cup milk tbs kewra (screwpine) water silver leaves tbs cream tbs ghee gm oil for frying Salt

1. Prepare the stock: Place the mutton bones and the spices at A together with salt in a pressure cooker. To this, add 6 glasses of water and pressure cook it on high flame for 1–2 whistles and then cook it further on low flame for about 15 minutes. Remove from stove and when the pressure subsides a little, strain and keep aside the mutton stock.

2. Prepare the rice: While the stock is getting ready, wash and soak the rice in water for about 20 minutes. Then drain. Heat about 4–5 glasses of mutton stock. Once the stock comes to a boil, add the rice and 1 tsp oil. Cook for 6–7 minutes till the rice is two thirds done. Put the rice in a colander and drain the excess stock. Now transfer the rice to a wide pan. Reserve.

3. Fry the meatballs: Mix the mince with all the ingredients at B, and salt and make small marble sized balls. Heat the oil in a frying pan and deep fry the balls, a few at a time, till they turn golden brown. Remove and place them on an absorbent paper. Spread out the silver leaves on a piece of paper and roll over half of the fried mince balls to coat them well with the silver leaf.

4. Cook the meatballs: Heat oil and fry the onions till golden brown. Add the cloves, ginger and garlic paste and fry for a few seconds. Sprinkle a little water and add red chilli powder and the ground musk and watermelon seeds. Fry for just about a minute, and add yoghurt and mix, stirring continuously to avoid curdling till the contents come to a boil. Add salt and the fried meatballs uncoated with silver leaves. Add a little water and cook covered for about 5 minutes. When done there should be about 1 cup gravy left.

5. Assemble and serve: Take a heavy bottomed pan and smear it with oil. Arrange two thirds of the par-boiled rice in the pan followed by the mince balls with gravy over the rice. Cover the meatballs with the balance rice. Sprinkle saffron mixed with milk, kewra water, ghee and cream. Cover with a tight fitting lid and cook for the first 1–2 minutes on high flame and then on low flame for about 10 minutes till the rice is done. Take out the steaming hot pulao gently from the sides in large chunks without disturbing the layers. Garnish with silver coated meatballs and silver leaves.

Muthanjan Pulao (Delhi)

Muthanjan is a corruption of the Arabic word ‘muttajjan’, which means ‘fried in a pan’. A highly celebrated pulao of the Mughal era, Muthanjan Pulao is made with mutton, sugar, butter, and nuts. Here kababs are made out of mutton mince and coated with gold leaves. This is one of the few pulaos that use gold and not silver leaves.

Preparation time: 45 minutes

Cooking time: 2 hours 15 minutes

Serves: 8–10

750	gm mutton, cut into medium pieces
1 4 5 1 1 2 1 3–4 2–3 1	black cardamom green cardamoms cloves tsp peppercorns 1 inch cinnamon stick bay leaves onion, quartered cloves of garlic mace flakes small piece of nutmeg
1 5 1 100 500	tsp ghee cloves litre full cream milk gm almonds, blanched, skin removed and ground gm long grain rice
2 1 ½ 1 1 ½	medium sized onions, finely sliced tbs chopped ginger cup yoghurt, beaten tsp coriander powder tsp chilli powder tsp garam masala
250 2 1	gm mutton mince tbs split grams tsp red chilli powder
2–3 100 50 1   2 2–3 ½   50	green chillies, finely chopped gm raisins gm pistachios, unsalted cup powdered sugar Juice of 2 limes tbs milk tbs kewra (screwpine) water tsp saffron Few golden leaves (sone ke varq) gm ghee–oil, mixed, for mutton Oil to fry Salt

1. Prepare the mutton stock: Boil the meat with all the ingredients at A, salt and 5–5½ glasses of water for about 30 minutes till the meat is tender. Strain the meat pieces and keep the stock aside. When done, you should be left with about 4 glasses of clear mutton stock. Heat 1 tsp ghee, add 5 cloves, and fry till dark brown. Add the ghee and the cloves to the stock and cover.

2. Prepare the milk: Bring milk to a boil and continue boiling, stirring every now and then till the consistency of milk is reduced to ¼. Add the ground almonds, mix, and set aside.

3. Prepare the rice: Wash and soak rice in liberal quantity of water for about 20 minutes. Drain the water and set aside. Heat about 4 glasses of mutton stock. Add the rice, 1 tbs ghee and salt for rice. The level of stock should be 1 inch above the surface of rice. Adjust the level of stock accordingly. Cook first on medium-high flame and then on low flame for about 10 minutes till the rice is 80 percent done and liquids absorbed.

4. Prepare the mutton: Heat 50 gm ghee–oil. Add onions and fry till golden brown. Add the boiled mutton pieces with all the ingredients at B and salt. Sprinkle a little water now and then and fry till the meat is browned. Keep aside.

5. Prepare the kababs: Boil the mince with very little water, split gram and salt till the mince is tender. Raise the heat so that all the water from the mince is dried then add red chilli powder and green chillies. To make the kababs, take about 1½ tsp of the mince and shape it into a sausage. Repeat the process for the rest of the mince. Heat oil. Deep fry the kababs, a few at a time, on medium flame till they are golden brown. When cool, wrap them with golden leaves. Set aside.

6. Assemble the dish: Take a heavy bottomed pan. Smear with oil. Arrange half of the cooked meat in it. Spread one third of the rice over the meat. Spread half of the thickened milk over the rice. Scatter half of the raisins and pistachios over the milk. Then sprinkle half of the sugar and lime juice. Cover with another third of rice. Spread the remaining milk over the rice and the remaining raisins and pistachios, sugar and lime juice. Cover with the rest of the rice. Sprinkle milk mixed with kewra water and saffron. Cover with a tight fitting lid and cook for the first 1–2 minutes on high flame and then cook on dum for about 20–25 minutes till the dish is steaming hot, the rice done and individual grains still separate.

7. Garnish and serve: Serve hot, garnished with gold leaf wrapped kababs.

Pork Chops Pulao (Delhi)

Pork was traditionally never used in the pulao as it was a Muslim innovation. However, with time, other variations on the meat started being used by the other communities to satisfy their palate. The dish acquires its own richness on account of pork being naturally rich in fat.

Preparation time: 10 minutes

Cooking time: 1 hour

Serves: 8

500 1	gm long grain rice kg pork chops
1½ 1½ 2 3–4 2 4–6 ½ 1	tsp ginger paste tsp garlic paste bay leaves cardamoms 1 inch cinnamon sticks cloves tsp caraway seeds heaped tbs peppercorns
2–3 ½	medium onions, finely sliced tsp garam masala
1 1	tsp butter cup oil Salt

1. Soak the rice: Wash and soak rice in water for 20 minutes.

2. Prepare the pork: Wash pork and drain the water out. Boil the chops in about 6–6½ glasses of water with all the ingredients at A and salt. Cook for about 30 minutes till the chops are almost tender. Strain to get clear meat stock and keep the pork chops aside.

3. Assemble and serve: Heat oil in a heavy base pan and fry the onions till golden brown. Add rice and fry for about 3–4 minutes, then add the pork chops and fry for another 2–3 minutes. Add meat stock, garam masala, a little salt and butter. The level of stock should be 1’ over the surface of rice. Cover the pan with a tight fitting lid and cook for the first 1–2 minutes on high flame and then cook on dum for about 20–25 minutes till the rice is done with individual grains separate. Serve hot.

Maya’s Biryani (Delhi)

This is a recipe given to me by Maya, a Nepali from Uttarakhand. She learnt cooking during her stints in various Delhi homes, honing her skills in the house of Neelam and Tarun Vadhera. Her biryani is much sought after and a rave with all who savour it.

Preparation time: 15 minutes

Cooking time: 1 hour

Serves: 8–10

1 2–3 1 1 1 1 2 ¼ 1 600 6   ½ 2 ½ ⅓ 6–8 60

kg mutton, from the leg or shoulder of a goat, cut into medium sized pieces medium onions, finely sliced tbs ginger paste tbs garlic paste tsp chilli powder tsp garam masala tbs coriander powder tsp nutmeg powder cup yoghurt, whisked gm rice glasses mutton stock Juice of 3 limes tsp saffron tbs screwpine water cup fresh green coriander, chopped cup mint leaves green chillies, chopped gm ghee Oil for frying Salt

1. Cook the mutton: Wash and put the meat in a colander for the water to drain. Heat 2 tbs of oil in a heavy base pan. Add the onions and fry till golden brown. Add ginger and garlic paste and fry for a minute. Then add the meat and salt and fry for about 7–8 minutes till the moisture evaporates. Then add the chilli powder, garam masala, coriander powder, and nutmeg powder. Mix and fry for a few seconds. Add about 1½ glasses of water and cook covered on medium-slow flame for about 10 minutes till the meat is done. Now add 1 cup of yoghurt and mix and cook, stirring briskly till the contents come to a boil and oil starts to surface. Cook till just about ½ cup gravy is left.

2. Prepare the rice: Wash and soak the rice for 20 minutes. Boil rice in 6 glasses of mutton stock. Cook covered first on high flame and then on low flame. Cook for about 12–15 minutes till the rice is cooked fully and the stock absorbed. Cook the rice after the meat has been cooked, as we would need fresh and steaming hot rice to assemble the dish. Add ghee, juice of 3 limes, saffron, and 2 tbs of screwpine water and salt to the rice as soon as it is ready.

3. Heat the mutton: Sprinkle a little water and heat the meat and keep it ready heated up.

4. Assemble and serve: Place half the rice in a serving platter. Arrange the cooked meat over the rice. Mix the chopped coriander and mint with the balance rice and cover the meat with this balance rice. Serve hot immediately.

Mutton Pulao (Kashmir)

A typical Kashmiri pulao, this dish is lusciously flavoured with spices such as dry ginger (sonth), asafoetida and dry fruits such as walnut and almond, all of which are used in Kashmiri cooking.

Preparation time: 10 minutes

Cooking time: 50 minutes

Serves: 8

1	kg mutton (from the shoulder) cut into 2 inch pieces
1 1	tsp dry ginger powder (sonth) tsp aniseed powder A pinch of asafoetida
500	gm long grain rice
2–3 2 6 3 6–8 50 50 ½	bay leaves 1 inch cinnamon sticks green cardamoms, crushed open at the end black cardamoms, crushed open at the end cloves gm walnuts gm almonds blanched and skin peeled tsp saffron
4–5 ½	glasses mutton stock cup ghee–oil, mixed Salt

1. Prepare the mutton stock: Mix mutton with all the ingredients at A and salt. Boil the mutton in about 6 glasses of water and cook the meat for about 25–30 minutes till almost done. Strain to get clear mutton stock set aside the mutton pieces.

2. Soak the rice: Meanwhile, wash and soak rice in liberal quantity of water for 15–20 minutes, then drain and set aside.

3. Assemble and serve: Heat ghee–oil in a heavy bottomed pan, large enough to take the meat and the rice. Add all the ingredients at B along with the cooked mutton and fry for about 2–3 minutes. Add rice and fry for another 1–2 minutes. Add the mutton stock so that the level of stock is 1 inch above the surface of rice and meat. Once the liquids come to a boil, reduce heat and cook on dum covered for about 20 minutes till the rice is done and each grain separate. Serve hot.

Mutton Biryani (Kashmir)

This dish is cooked with mutton and yoghurt on slow fire. Dry fruits like raisins and walnuts native to the beautiful state of Kashmir, add a distinctive flavour to it.

Preparation time: 10 minutes

Marination time: ½ an hour

Cooking time: 1 hour

Serves: 8

1 2 ⅓ 2 ¼ 500   25 25	kg mutton, cut into medium pieces cups of yoghurt, whisked tsp turmeric powder tsp red chilli powder nutmeg, powdered gm long grain rice Juice of half a lime gm raisins gm walnuts
2 2 1 2 2 1	Seeds of 2 black cardamoms green cardamoms 1 inch cinnamon sticks tsp caraway seeds bay leaves tsp coriander powder tsp garam masala
½   1 ½	tsp saffron, crushed and dissolved in half cup warm milk A few mint leaves tbs ghee cup ghee–oil (mixed) Salt

1. Marinate the meat: Mix the meat well with yoghurt, turmeric, red chilli powder, nutmeg powder and salt and marinate for ½ an hour.

2. Cook the rice: Wash and soak rice in water for 20 minutes, then drain out the water. Bring 2 litres of water to a boil along with salt and juice of lime. Add rice and cook for about 6–7 minutes till it is two thirds done. Drain the water and transfer the rice to a flat pan. Set aside.

3. Cook the meat: In a heavy base pan, heat the ghee–oil and add the raisins. When they swell up, remove and keep aside. Add walnuts and fry till golden. Remove and keep aside. Now, in the same ghee–oil add all the spices at A together with salt and after a few seconds add the marinated meat with the marinade. Stir and fry till the liquids are absorbed and the meat turns brown. Then add a little water and cook covered for about 25–30 minutes, stirring now and then, till the meat is tender. When done, the meat should have 1 cup of gravy left.

4. Assemble and serve: Spread the par-boiled rice over the meat. Sprinkle saffron milk, the fried raisins, walnuts, and mint over the rice. Dot it with ghee. Cover the dish with a tight fitting lid and cook for the first 1–2 minutes on moderate to high flame to heat up the dish, then on very slow flame or dum for 15–20 minutes till the dish is steaming hot and rice done. Serve hot.

Vegetable Biryani (Lucknow)

Despite the overarching dominance of Mughal culture over much of north India, especially Lucknow, it is home to some wonderful vegetable biryanis. Beans, peas, cauliflower, and carrots are cooked with rice to create this delicious dish.

Preparation time: 15–20 minutes

Cooking time: 50 minutes

Serves: 8

400 100 100 100 100 3–4 1 1 6–7     100 ⅓ ½	gm long grain rice gm carrots, cut into 1½ inch finger sized pieces gm French beans, cut into 1½ inch sized pieces gm cauliflower, cut into medium sized florets gm shelled peas medium sized onions, finely sliced tsp ginger paste tsp garlic paste green chillies, each sliced into 2 A few sprigs of fresh green coriander, chopped A few mint leaves gm yoghurt, whisked tsp turmeric powder tsp crushed dry red chillies
4 6–8 2 2–3	cardamoms cloves 1 inch cinnamon sticks mace flakes
½ 2 1 100	tsp saffron, crushed and soaked in ½ cup warm milk tbs screwpine (kewra) water tbs melted ghee gm ghee–oil, mixed Salt

1. Soak the rice: Wash and soak rice in water for about 20 minutes. Drain and set aside.

2. Cook the vegetables: Put together all the vegetables in a pan. Add about 1 cup water and lightly steam the vegetables for about 2 minutes. Take a heavy bottomed pan, large enough to take the rice and the vegetables, and heat the ghee–oil mix. Add the sliced onions and fry till golden brown. Add the ginger and garlic paste and fry for a few seconds. Then add the green chillies, coriander, and mint and fry for a few seconds. Next add the whipped yoghurt and bring to a boil, stirring continuously. Then add salt, turmeric, crushed red chillies, and the steamed vegetables. Mix and cook for 1–2 minutes.

3. Cook the rice: Boil 2 litres of water with the whole spices at A and a little salt. When the water starts boiling, add rice and cook for about 7–8 minutes till two thirds done. Drain the water from rice.

4. Assemble and serve: Spread the rice over the vegetables and sprinkle saffron milk and screwpine water over the rice. Also pour melted ghee. Now cover with a tight fitting lid and cook for the first 1–2 minutes on high flame and then on dum for about 10–15 minutes till the rice is steaming hot and done. Serve hot.

Aloo Aur Tamater Ka Pulao (Lucknow)

This is a vegetarian pulao of tomatoes and potatoes.

Preparation time: 15 minutes

Cooking time: 30 minutes

Serves: 6

300	gm long grain rice
½ 1 1 ½ ½	tsp turmeric powder tsp red chilli powder tsp coriander powder tsp cumin powder tsp garam masala
2 2 4 60	large onions, sliced large potatoes, cut into medium pieces tomatoes, chopped gm oil Salt

1. Soak the rice: Wash and soak the rice in a liberal quantity of water for 20 minutes. Drain and set aside.

2. Prepare the spice paste: Mix together all the spices at A with a little salt and water and make a paste.

3. Assemble and serve: Heat oil in a heavy bottomed pan. Fry the onions till golden, add the potatoes and fry for about 5 minutes. Then add the tomatoes and fry for another 2–3 minutes. Add the paste to this and in a minute or so add the rice. Stir and fry for a minute, then add water about 1 inch above the surface of rice. Once the water starts to boil, cover and cook first on medium flame for about 2 minutes and then on low flame for about 10–12 minutes till the rice and potatoes are done. Serve hot.

Mewa Pulao (Delhi)

Mewa means dry fruit in Hindi. As the name suggests, Mewa Pulao has a wide assortment of nuts and dry fruits, which makes it somewhat sweet in taste. It is made with almonds, raisins, pistachios and walnuts, and flavoured with saffron and screwpine water. This pulao is particularly popular in Rajasthan.

Preparation time: 5–10 minutes

Cooking time: 20–25 minutes

Serves: 6–8

300	gm long grain rice
25 25 25 50	gm almonds, soaked, peeled and slivered gm raisins gm pistachios, unsalted gm walnuts
2 150 2–3   ½ ½	cups milk gm sugar drops of screwpine (kewra) essence mixed with a little water or 2–3 tbs of screwpine water tsp saffron, crushed and dissolved in ⅓ cup milk cup ghee

1. Soak the rice: Wash and soak rice in water for 20 minutes. Drain and set aside.

2. Assemble and serve: Heat ghee in a heavy bottomed pan. Lightly fry the ingredients at A. Remove and set aside. Now add all the ingredients at B. Fry for a few seconds. Add the rice and fry for 2 minutes. Add 2 cups milk and a little water so as to reach 1 inch above the surface of rice. Cook covered, first on high flame for about 1–2 minutes till the water comes to a boil and then on medium slow flame for about 20 minutes till the rice is done. At this stage, add sugar, dry fruit, saffron milk, and mix gently. Cook on low flame for 2–3 minutes. Serve hot.

Guchchi Biryani (Delhi)

This is a vegetable biryani made with morels or guchchis. Rice is cooked with guchchis and whisked yoghurt, and flavoured with saffron, screwpine water, mace, and cardamom powder.

Preparation time: 10–15 minutes

Cooking time: 45 minutes

Serves: 6

350 1 3–4 2–3   8–10 ½ 2 1 4–5     1 2 1 ½ ½ 1 2 100

gm long grain rice bay leaf cloves cardamoms Juice of half a lime guchchis (morels) tsp cumin seeds onions, finely sliced tsp yellow chilli powder green chillies, chopped A few sprigs of fresh green coriander, chopped A few mint leaves tsp cumin powder tbs yoghurt, whisked tbs cream tsp saffron, crushed and dissolved in ½ cup milk tsp mace and cardamom powder tbs screwpine water tbs cream gm oil Salt

1. Prepare the rice: Wash and soak the rice in water for about 20 minutes, then drain. Boil about 1¾ litres of water with bay leaf, cloves, cardamom, juice of half a lime, and a little salt. When the water starts to boil, add the rice and cook for about 6–7 minutes till it is two thirds done. Drain and transfer the rice to a wide pan. Set it aside.

2. Prepare the guchchis: Wash and soak the guchchis in warm water for about 10 minutes. Then slice them vertically into 2 pieces and set it aside.

3. Cook the guchchis: Heat the oil and add cumin seeds followed in a few seconds by the sliced onions. When the onions turn golden brown, add the guchchis. Also add yellow chilli powder, green chillies, fresh coriander and mint, cumin powder and salt. Mix and sauté for 1–2 minutes. Add ½ cup water, then cover and cook on medium slow flame for about 4 –5 minutes. Mix yoghurt and cream and add to the guchchis. Mix well and cover. Simmer for just about a minute.

4. Assemble and serve: Take a heavy bottomed pan and smear it with oil. Place half of the par–boiled rice in it. Arrange the guchchis over the rice and cover it with the balance rice. Sprinkle the saffron milk over the rice followed by mace and cardamom powder. Add 1 tbs screwpine water and dot with cream. Cover with a tight fitting lid. Cook over high flame for 1–2 minutes to heat up the dish and then on dum for about 10 minutes till the rice is done and steaming hot. Remove the cover and serve hot.