Pasta, Rice, and Legumes

Pasta, rice, and beans, along with bread, are the foundation of the Mediterranean diet, present on most Mediterranean tables on a daily basis, sometimes even twice a day. But don’t think of them as just stodgy filler-uppers: with the right combination of fresh vegetables, of green herbs and aromatic spices, of long-cooked ragùs or meat or fish stews, they can easily become the centerpiece of a healthy meal. And of course extra-virgin olive oil is key, lending flavor, color, and texture to the whole presentation.

Spaghetti Aglio-Olio-Peperoncino Spaghetti with Garlic, Oil, and Hot Red Peppers

This is the kind of quick, simple dish Italians often throw together after an all-night party or when spirits are flagging and an infusion of food is called for. Other types of long thin pasta, like vermicelli, linguine, or taglierini, may be substituted. If anchovies are omitted, adjust the salt in the sauce.

Makes 6 servings

  • 4 to 6 plump garlic cloves, chopped
  • ½ cup olive oil, preferably a fruity oil from Molise or Sicily
  • Sea salt
  • 1 pound spaghetti
  • 3 or 4 anchovy fillets, coarsely chopped (optional)
  • 1 small dried hot red chile pepper, crumbled, or ½ teaspoon crushed hot red chile pepper, or more to taste
  • ½ cup minced flat-leaf parsley

Bring 5 to 6 quarts water to a rolling boil in a pasta pot.

In a pan large enough to hold all the drained pasta, cook the garlic in the oil very gently over medium-low heat just until the garlic softens and starts to turn golden. Don’t let the garlic brown.

Add at least 2 tablespoons salt to the pot of vigorously boiling water, then tip in the spaghetti and give it a stir.

If you’re using anchovies, add them to the oil and garlic. Cook briefly, mashing the pieces into the oil with a fork. Stir in the chile pepper and half the parsley, and carefully add a ladleful of the pasta cooking water. Let it simmer and reduce slightly while the pasta finishes cooking.

Start testing the pasta after it has cooked for 4 minutes. When it is still a little chewy in the center, drain it and add to the pan with the sauce. Turn the heat up slightly and cook, mixing the pasta and sauce together for a couple of minutes, until the pasta is done to taste. Turn the pasta into a preheated serving bowl, sprinkle with the remaining parsley, and serve immediately.

Trenette, Fagiolini, e Patate al Pesto Long Thin Pasta, Green Beans, and Potatoes with Pesto

The most elegant pasta dish that Italian cooks have ever invented is astonishingly simple to make, especially if you make your pesto with a food processor instead of a mortar and pestle.

Makes 4 servings as a main course, 6 as a primo

  • 2 cups packed tender young basil leaves
  • ¼ cup pine nuts
  • Sea salt
  • 2 plump garlic cloves, crushed with the flat blade of a knife
  • ½ cup olive oil, or more to taste, preferably a Taggiasca from Liguria
  • ½ cup freshly grated parmigiano reggiano cheese, or more to taste
  • ½ pound small yellow-fleshed potatoes, peeled and sliced about ¼ inch thick
  • ¼ pound tender young green beans, cut into 1-inch lengths
  • 1 pound trenette or other long thin pasta

Tear the basil leaves into smaller pieces and combine with the pine nuts, 1 teaspoon salt (or to taste), and the crushed garlic in the bowl of a food processor. Pulse until the mixture is coarse and grainy. With the motor running, add the oil in a slow, steady stream. Add the cheese and pulse just enough to mix well. If the sauce seems too dry, pulse in a little more oil. Taste and add more cheese or salt, if you wish. Set the pesto aside.

Bring 6 quarts water to a rolling boil in a large saucepan or pasta pot. Add at least 2 tablespoons salt and the potato slices. Cook for about 5 minutes, or until the potatoes have started to soften but are not cooked through. Add the green beans, and continue boiling for another 5 minutes.

Add the pasta and stir. Start testing the pasta after 5 minutes. When it is al dente, the potatoes and beans should be tender. Drain in a colander and turn the pasta and vegetables immediately into a preheated bowl. Set aside a couple of tablespoons of pesto to garnish the top. Add the rest to the pasta and mix thoroughly. Serve immediately, garnished with the reserved pesto.

Trenette, Fagiolini, e Patate al Pesto (Long Thin Pasta, Green Beans, and Potatoes with Pesto)

Trenette, Fagiolini, e Patate al Pesto (Long Thin Pasta, Green Beans, and Potatoes with Pesto)

Anna Tasca Lanza’s Pesto from le Case Vecchie

Anna Tasca Lanza’s Pesto from le Case Vecchie

Anna Tasca Lanza’s Pesto from le Case Vecchie

North Americans sometimes think pesto can only be made with basil and pine nuts, so I thought it would be useful to include this example from a little book called Herbs and Wild Greens from the Sicilian Countryside, which my dear late friend Anna put together in 1999 and published herself at Case Vecchie, her delightful home on her family’s Regaleali wine estate in central Sicily. Since Anna’s passing, her daughter Fabrizia Lanza now lives at Case Vecchie and continues to run a cooking school that honors her mother’s spirited defense of Sicilian traditions.

This makes a sauce for a pound of spaghetti or linguine, enough for 4 abundant main-course servings or 6 servings as an Italian-style primo or first course.

Makes 4 servings as a main course, 6 as a primo

  • 1 cup flat-leaf parsley leaves and tender stems
  • 1 cup basil leaves
  • 1 cup mint leaves
  • Leaves from 1 sprig sage, chopped (about 1 teaspoon)
  • Leaves from 1 small sprig rosemary (about 1 teaspoon)
  • Leaves from 1 sprig thyme (about ¼ teaspoon)
  • 1 fresh hot red chile pepper, seeded
  • 2 garlic cloves
  • 1 cup olive oil
  • 1 teaspoon sugar
  • ½ cup ground or finely chopped blanched almonds
  • ¼ cup freshly grated pecorino or parmigiano reggiano cheese
  • Sea salt
  • 1 pound spaghetti or linguine
  • 4 ripe medium tomatoes, peeled and diced

Combine the parsley, basil, mint, sage, rosemary, thyme, chile pepper, garlic, and oil in the bowl of a food processor. Pulse in spurts until well combined, then add the sugar, almonds, and cheese. Process very briefly, just to mix well—the almonds should not be overprocessed. Taste, and add salt if necessary (there may be enough salt from the cheese).

Bring 5 to 6 quarts water to a rolling boil. Add salt, and when it comes back to a boil, cook the pasta in the boiling water. When the pasta is almost done, extract a ladleful of pasta water and add to the pesto to thin it slightly. Drain the pasta and mix it with half the pesto, then turn it into a warmed serving bowl or platter. Spoon the rest of the pesto over the top and garnish with the diced tomatoes. Serve immediately.

Summertime Pasta with a Raw Tomato and Olive Oil Sauce Pasta alla Checca

This is not pasta salad; rather, the sauce is cool—actually at room temperature—but the pasta must be hot. It’s a good quick dish because, even if the sauce requires some preparation (but not very much!), once it’s done it simply sits in its bowl, which it can do for hours, until the pasta is ready to serve. This was a family favorite from when I lived in Rome, to be consumed preferably in the heat of summer on a shady terrace as swallows hurled themselves through the blue skies, church bells mingled with children’s voices, and the fragrance of good things rose from the neighborhood bakery.

Makes 4 to 6 servings

  • 2 pounds very ripe tomatoes, peeled, seeded, and chopped
  • 4 garlic cloves, chopped or very thinly sliced
  • Sea salt
  • ½ teaspoon crushed red chile pepper (optional)
  • ⅓ cup plus 2 tablespoons chopped fresh basil
  • ½ cup olive oil
  • 1 pound spaghetti or similar long thin pasta

Combine the tomatoes, garlic, a teaspoon or so of salt, the chile pepper, if using, ⅓ cup of the basil, and the oil in a large bowl. Cover and set aside at room temperature to marinate for several hours. If you must refrigerate the sauce at any point, be sure to give it plenty of time to come back to room temperature before serving it.

When ready to serve, bring 5 to 6 quarts water to a rolling boil in a pasta pot. Add salt, and when it comes back to a boil, simply add the pasta, cook, drain, turn into a heated serving bowl, and immediately toss with the sauce. Garnish with the remaining 2 tablespoons basil and serve immediately.

Summertime Pasta with a Raw Tomato and Olive Oil Sauce (Pasta alla Checca)

Summertime Pasta with a Raw Tomato and Olive Oil Sauce (Pasta alla Checca)

Arroz Caldoso con Almejas (Soupy Spanish Rice with Clams)

Arroz Caldoso con Almejas (Soupy Spanish Rice with Clams)

Arroz Caldoso con Almejas Soupy Spanish Rice with Clams

Along the Catalan coast of Spain, this rice is made with small, sweet Mediterranean clams, which finish cooking right in their shells in the middle of the rice. In North America, I make it with cherrystones or little Manila clams, cooking them separately and shucking them in order to get rid of any sand or grit. Note that I’ve called for Spanish pimentón. This is not pimentón de la Vera, which is smoked, but an unsmoked and very fragrant ground red pepper.

Don’t think of this as a Spanish clam risotto—it should be somewhat soupy rather than risotto-like.

Makes 6 servings

  • Pinch of saffron threads
  • 1½ pounds cherrystone or Manila clams in their shells
  • 1 cup dry white wine, or more as needed
  • ½ cup extra-virgin olive oil
  • 1 large onion, chopped
  • 1 pound tomatoes, peeled and chopped
  • 3 garlic cloves, crushed with the flat blade of a knife
  • 1 sweet red pepper, diced
  • 1 sweet green pepper, diced
  • 3 sprigs fresh thyme, or ½ teaspoon dried thyme, crumbled
  • ½ teaspoon mild Spanish paprika (pimentón)
  • ¾ cup short-grain rice (Valencia or Arborio)
  • 2 cups boiling water
  • Sea salt
  • ¼ cup minced flat-leaf parsley

Add the saffron threads to ½ cup warm water and set aside to steep for at least 1 hour.

Combine the clams and wine in a saucepan—there should be about 1 inch of wine in the bottom of the pan. Set over medium heat and cook the clams in the simmering wine just long enough to open the shells. As the shells open, remove them from the liquid and set aside. When done, strain the liquid thoroughly (use a paper coffee filter if you have one, or a double or triple layer of cheesecloth in a colander) to get rid of any trace of grit. If the clams themselves are very clean, leave them whole and add them later, in their shells, to the rice. It makes a nicer presentation, but the clams must be scrupulously free of sand; otherwise, shuck the clams, discarding the shells, but keep them warm in the strained liquid.

Heat the oil in a large Dutch oven or heavy saucepan. Add the onion, tomatoes, garlic, and peppers, and cook over medium heat until the tomatoes have dissolved in their own juices and the peppers are starting to soften. Add the saffron with its soaking water, then stir in the thyme and paprika.

Add the clam cooking liquid to the pan and continue cooking for 5 minutes. Stir in the rice and the boiling water. Add a good pinch of salt and let simmer for about 15 minutes; the rice should soften but still be quite firm. Stir in the clams and continue cooking another 5 minutes. Once the rice is tender, remove from the heat and stir in the parsley. Cover and let the rice sit for 5 minutes before serving.

Risotto alle Erbe Green Herb Risotto

Many risotto recipes call for butter, but I find it makes a heavy and indigestible dish. In this recipe, I use a light-flavored oil (not a so-called “light” oil but one that has a softer flavor) in order not to compete with the fresh herbs. A lot depends on what the main ingredient is, however, and for the more assertive wild mushroom risotto that follows, I use a more medium-bodied oil.

Genuine ricotta is made by reheating the whey from cheese making. A type of curdled milk, made with lemon juice or vinegar, is often mistakenly called ricotta. Be sure you get the real thing for this delicious risotto. If the ricotta is very damp, with a lot of whey still clinging to the curds, drain it briefly in a fine-mesh sieve to get rid of excess liquid.

Have the stock simmering on the back of the stove so it will be ready to add to the risotto. Another tip: The spinach, like the ricotta, must be very well drained to make a creamy, not watery, puree.

Makes 6 servings

  • ½ cup cooked, well drained spinach
  • 1 cup whole-milk ricotta cheese, drained
  • 6 cups chicken stock, or more if needed
  • ½ cup finely chopped basil leaves
  • ½ cup finely chopped flat-leaf parsley
  • ¼ cup finely chopped rosemary leaves
  • ¼ cup finely chopped sage leaves
  • 1 medium white or yellow onion, finely chopped
  • ¼ cup olive oil, plus a little more for garnish
  • 2 cups short-grain rice (carnaroli, vialone nano, or arborio)
  • Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
  • ½ cup dry white wine
  • ½ cup freshly grated parmigiano reggiano cheese

Combine the spinach and ricotta in a blender or food processor and blend to a smooth, light green cream. Set aside.

Bring the stock to just below a boil in a saucepan and maintain this level of heat.

Use a fork to toss the basil, parsley, rosemary, and sage together to mix well.

In a large heavy saucepan over medium-low heat, sweat the onion and half the herbs (¾ cup) in the oil, cooking gently, stirring, until the onion is thoroughly softened. Mix in the rice and add salt and pepper. Stir slowly and, when the rice starts to turn opaque, tip in the wine, raising the heat slightly.

Let the wine bubble and simmer. At this point, be sure the stock is very hot, just below boiling. As soon as the wine has been absorbed by the rice, start to add the stock, ¼ to ½ cup at a time, stirring it in and waiting for each addition to be absorbed before adding more. Do not let the rice dry out at any point—it should always have a slightly soupy texture. You may not need all the stock to finish the risotto, but you should keep adding it until the rice is done. The grains will still be separate and slightly resistant to the bite but bathed in a thick, herby sauce.

At this point, remove the pan from the heat and quickly stir in the remaining ¾ cup herbs and the ricotta-spinach mixture. Finally, stir in the grated parmigiano. Cover and let rest for 10 minutes, then serve immediately, garnishing each serving with a thin thread of olive oil.

Note: Make this vegetarian simply by substituting vegetable broth for the chicken stock.

Mushroom Risotto

Once you’ve made risotto a couple of times, you will realize what a quick and easy dish it is, despite its reputation for being difficult and time-consuming. For me, it’s one of the best ways I know to put an elegant dish on the table, especially when unexpected guests arrive. There is always rice in the pantry and there is always something else that can be added, even if it’s just onions or a can of good-quality San Marzano tomatoes, that will make a flavorful dish to set before a prince of the realm.

Any one of a number of different vegetables—spinach, artichokes, squash, tomatoes in season, green peas, asparagus—could be used in this risotto, but the basic procedure is the same.

Makes 6 servings

  • 6 cups chicken or vegetable stock
  • 1 medium yellow onion, halved and very thinly sliced
  • ⅓ cup olive oil
  • 2 cups short-grain rice (carnaroli, vialone nano, or arborio)
  • ¾ cup dry white wine
  • 2 to 3 cups chopped or slivered mushrooms, wild or cultivated
  • Sea salt
  • ½ cup well-drained ricotta cheese
  • 2 to 3 tablespoons finely minced flat-leaf parsley
  • ¾ cup freshly grated parmigiano reggiano cheese
  • Freshly ground black pepper

Heat the stock to a bare simmer and keep simmering very gently while you prepare the risotto.

In a heavy saucepan large enough to hold all the rice when cooked, gently sauté the onion in the oil over medium-low heat until thoroughly softened but not browned, about 15 minutes. Add the rice and stir well with a wooden spoon to coat with the oil. (The wooden spoon will be gentler with the rice as it starts to soften.) Cook for about 5 minutes, or until the rice has taken on a translucent look. Raise the heat slightly and add the wine. Cook, stirring gently, just a couple of strokes, until the wine has evaporated or been absorbed by the rice.

Add the mushrooms (or whatever other vegetable you choose), and stir into the rice. Add a ladle or two of simmering stock, along with a small pinch of salt, and stir. (Keep in mind the saltiness of your stock and also the fact that the cheese added at the end will contribute to the salt in the dish.) When the rice has absorbed the liquid, continue adding the stock, ¼ to ½ cup at a time, stirring briefly as you add. There should always be liquid visible in the pan. Do not add all the liquid at once; this will produce boiled rice instead of risotto. The rice will be done when it is al dente, with a bit of a bite in the center. Each grain should be well coated with the sauce of vegetables and stock, which should be dense and rather syrupy looking. When it is done, the risotto should be thick enough to eat with a fork and not at all soupy. (You may not need to use all the stock.) Total cooking time will vary from 20 to 30 minutes, depending on the degree of doneness that you’re looking for.

While the rice is cooking, beat the ricotta and minced parsley together to make a light, pale green cream.

When the rice is cooked, remove the pan from the heat and immediately stir in the ricotta-parsley mixture along with ¼ cup of the grated parmigiano. Add a few grinds of pepper, cover the pan, and let it sit for 5 minutes to settle the flavors. Taste before serving, and add more salt if you wish. Serve immediately, passing the rest of the grated cheese at the table.

Maqloubeh Upside-Down Rice with Eggplant

In Arabic, maqloubeh means “upside-down,” an exact description of what happens with this dish, which is cooked in a deep pot that is then inverted over a serving platter so that the rice, which is on the top in the pot, becomes the base of the dish on the platter and all the delicious meat juices and vegetables are a sumptuous crown for the rice. Maqloubeh comes in many variations throughout the Middle East but always includes rice, at least one vegetable, and some kind of meat (often lamb, though chicken is almost as frequent). This Palestinian version is from Fairouz Shoumali, an engaging cook and schoolteacher, who makes it for family celebrations in Beit Sahour, just south of Jerusalem.

The melted butter may seem an odd variant in an oil-based cuisine like that of Palestine. I suspect that the original probably used samneh, a type of clarified butter that was cultured to preserve it, which was once more widely used throughout the Middle East.

Makes 6 to 8 servings

  • Sea salt
  • 1 to 1½ pounds eggplant, peeled and sliced ¼ to ½ inch thick
  • 1½ pounds tender lamb, diced
  • 3 tablespoons mixed ground spices (see Note for suggestions)
  • 1 small head cauliflower (1 to 1¼ pounds)
  • 1 medium onion, chopped
  • 2 garlic cloves, chopped
  • About ¾ cup olive oil
  • 2 cups basmati rice
  • 1 large tomato, very thinly sliced
  • 2 tablespoons butter, melted
  • 1 cup pine nuts
  • Plain yogurt, for serving

Sprinkle salt over the eggplant slices and set them in a colander to drain in the sink for about 30 minutes (you may weight the eggplant slices with a plate and a large can, such as a can of tomatoes).

In a saucepan, cover the meat with about 5 cups water and bring to a simmer. Skim off any froth that rises. When the froth has stopped rising, stir in the mixed spices, cover the pan, and simmer gently for 40 minutes to 1 hour, until the meat is tender.

Meanwhile, separate the cauliflower into small florets. Combine the onion and garlic and mince together.

Preheat the oven to 350°F.

Rinse the eggplant slices and dry thoroughly with paper towels. Brush a sheet pan with a little of the oil, then add the eggplant slices in a single layer and brush with a little more oil. Toast the eggplant in the preheated oven, turning the slices once, until golden on both sides but not necessarily cooked through. Set aside when done.

Brush the sheet pan with more oil and set the cauliflower florets on it, brushing each floret with a little more oil, then transfer the pan to the preheated oven. Roast the cauliflower until the pieces are golden. When done, set the cauliflower pieces aside.

Rinse the rice in a colander, running hot water over it, then set aside to drain and absorb any residual water.

In a sauté pan deep enough to hold all the meat, mix the onion and garlic with 2 tablespoons of the oil. Set over medium-low heat and gently sauté the vegetables until golden but not brown.

Meanwhile, drain the meat pieces, reserving the liquid and keeping it warm. Add the meat pieces to the onion mixture and continue cooking until the meat starts to look a little toasted and browned—just a few minutes should be enough. Stir in the cauliflower.

Now it’s time to assemble the dish: Smear another 1 tablespoon oil over the bottom of a deep pan with a lid, then lay the tomato slices all over the bottom. Make a layer of eggplant slices, then a layer of the meat and cauliflower combination, then another layer of eggplant and another layer of meat.

Stir the melted butter into the rice and spread it over the top of the pan. Bring the reserved liquid to a simmer and pour over the rice. Bring the pan to a simmer, then turn down to the lowest possible simmer, cover the pan, and cook for about 45 minutes, or until the rice is tender. The broth should not come to a rolling boil or it will toss the ingredients about and mix them up so that they lose their elegant structure of layers.

When the rice is done, remove the pan from the heat. Remove the lid from the pan and set a wide platter over the top. Now, carefully, and using oven mitts, invert the pan so that the rice comes out on the bottom, covered with the layers of meat, cauliflower, and eggplant. Ideally, the maqloubeh will be a perfect round mound of savory rice with the richness of its accompaniments as a sauce.

Maqloubeh is not usually served immediately but rather set aside to let the rice settle until the dish is at room temperature or somewhat warmer. While it is cooling, toast the pine nuts in a pan with 1 tablespoon oil—watch them carefully because once they start to turn golden they can quickly burn. Spoon them over the top of the maqloubeh and serve, accompanied by yogurt.

Note: The spice mixture for this dish should include (all ground to a powder) equal parts cumin, cardamom, black pepper, cinnamon, and allspice, plus just a pinch of curry powder (a modern addition to the Palestinian kitchen).

Middle Eastern Pilaf: Spiced Rice with Toasted Almonds

Nasser Abufarha is the head of a Palestinian olive oil cooperative, Canaan Fair Trade, in the northern part of Palestine, but he put himself through graduate school at the University of Wisconsin by running his own restaurant, so he clearly knows where he is in the kitchen. One night when I was visiting, he made this sumptuous rice for dinner to go with a whole leg of young lamb that he had rubbed with an abundance of olive oil, salt, and lots and lots of freshly ground black pepper. “I could add rosemary,” he said, “but it would cover up the good flavor of the lamb.”

The spices were a traditional mixture that he buys in the market in Jenin and has ground on the spot, but similar mixes are available everywhere in the Middle East. I’ve made a suggestion of a few spices, but you could add cumin and coriander seeds too. Buy them whole and grind them in a spice grinder or a coffee mill for the most pungent fragrance. You might start with equal proportions of the suggested spices, then vary the mixture to your own taste, adding in cumin or coriander, or perhaps a little of the sour tangy spice called sumac, if you wish.

Makes 6 servings

  • 2 heaping tablespoons combined ground spices (cinnamon, cloves, black pepper, allspice; see headnote)
  • 1 cup olive oil, preferably Palestinian or Lebanese
  • 2 cups basmati or other long-grain rice, rinsed and tossed to dry
  • 1 tablespoon sea salt
  • ¾ cup minced flat-leaf parsley
  • ¾ cup blanched almonds

Bring 2 quarts water to a rolling boil. When the water boils, stir in the fragrant spices and let simmer while you toast the rice.

Heat ½ cup of the oil over medium-high heat in a heavy saucepan large enough to hold all the rice when cooked—such as a 2-quart pan. Let the oil get very hot, then add the rice to the saucepan and toast, tossing and stirring. This will keep the rice from sticking to the pan as it cooks. Toast until the rice has turned translucent, then pour in the boiling spiced water all at once. Add the salt and, as soon as it returns to a boil, turn the heat down, cover the pan, and continue cooking until the rice is done, about 20 minutes. Remove the rice from the heat, stir in the parsley, cover the pan once more, and set it aside for at least 5 to 10 minutes to settle.

Meanwhile, heat the remaining ½ cup oil in a deep skillet over medium heat. When it is very hot—a deep-fry thermometer should reach about 350°F—add the blanched almonds. Cook, stirring constantly, until the almonds are a rich golden color. As the almonds start to change color, be very careful not to let them burn. When they are done, remove from the oil with a slotted spoon and add to the finished rice, stirring the almonds into the rice at the last minute before serving.

Chickpeas and Greens

This is a variation on an old-fashioned Tuscan recipe from the Arno Valley; you could make it equally well with other types of dried beans, such as cannellini or borlotti, too. It should be served as a very thick soup.

You could use other greens than those mentioned. Spinach would be good, but as it needs a minimum amount of cooking, add it at the very end of the cooking time. If you wish, use spicy greens, such as broccoli rabe (rapini) or bitter chicories, although to my taste they cover up the sweetness of the chickpeas.

Makes 4 to 6 servings

  • 1½ cups dried chickpeas, soaked overnight
  • 4 garlic cloves, crushed with the flat blade of a knife
  • 1 bunch green chard, Tuscan kale (lacinato kale), or other greens
  • 1 medium red onion, halved and thinly sliced
  • ¼ cup olive oil, plus more for garnish
  • 2 anchovy fillets, chopped
  • 2 tablespoons tomato paste or concentrate
  • Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
  • Toasted slices of country-style bread, for serving
  • Freshly grated pecorino toscano or parmigiano reggiano cheese, for serving

Drain the soaked chickpeas and put them in a pot with fresh water to cover to a depth of 1 inch. Bring to a simmer, and add the crushed garlic. Simmer the chickpeas, covered, until they are quite tender. This may take as long as 1 hour or more—it all depends on the age of the chickpeas.

While the chickpeas are cooking, prepare the greens, slivering them into ribbons. Chard needs simply to be slivered, but if the central ribs are very large, you may prefer to remove them and chop them coarsely separately. They will take longer to cook than the leafy greens. Tuscan kale must have the central ribs removed and discarded, as they are too tough to eat. (An easy way to do this: Assuming you are right-handed, grasp the rib in your left hand and tug at the leafy part at the widest part of the rib to loosen it, then strip right down the rib to pull away the leaf from the rib in one neat stroke.)

Combine the onion slices with the oil in a skillet over medium-low heat. Cook the onions until they are soft, then stir in the chopped anchovies. Use a fork to press the anchovy bits into the oil, making a sort of anchovy paste. Dissolve the tomato concentrate in ½ cup very hot water and add to the skillet, along with salt and pepper to taste. Bring to a simmer, and then turn the mixture into the pot of chickpeas. Let cook for another 15 minutes, by which time the chickpeas should be well-done. Stir in the greens and let cook for another 15 to 20 minutes, until the greens are tender. (If using spinach, keep in mind that it will be tender in just about 5 minutes.)

When you’re ready to serve, put a slice of toasted bread (a crostino) in the bottom of each soup plate and dribble with olive oil. Ladle hot soup over each crostino and sprinkle with a little grated cheese and another dribble of oil. Pass more cheese at the table.

Chili with Pork, Beans, and Greens

With pork, beans, greens, and peppers, both sweet and hot, in abundance, this hearty Southwestern-style stew takes the edge off cold winter nights. Crispy corn tortillas are good with it: Cut fresh tortillas into quarters and fry in olive oil until crisp and golden, then break them up in the stew when you serve it. Cornmeal polenta, a recipe for which follows, also makes a fine base for the stew.

Makes 8 servings

  • 1¼ cups pinto beans, soaked overnight
  • 1 pound pork shoulder or stewing pork, cut into ½-inch cubes
  • ½ cup olive oil
  • 3 garlic cloves, chopped
  • 2 medium red onions, chopped
  • 2 green sweet peppers, chopped
  • 2 fresh poblano chile peppers, seeded and chopped
  • 2 fresh jalapeño chile peppers, seeded and chopped
  • 2 cups chopped tomatillos (about 5 large tomatillos)
  • 2 cups water, light chicken stock, or vegetable stock
  • ¼ cup mild paprika
  • 2 tablespoons ground cumin
  • 1 tablespoon, more or less, ground or crushed red chile pepper (not too hot)
  • 1 bunch kale or other winter greens (broccoli rabe, collards)
  • Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
  • 1 bunch cilantro, chopped
  • Yogurt, for garnish (optional)

Drain the beans and place them in a saucepan with water to cover by a depth of 1 inch. Bring to a simmer over medium-low heat and cook, covered, for about 25 minutes, or until the bean skins crack when you blow on them lightly. They will not be done—they have more cooking to do. Add boiling water from time to time, if necessary, to keep the beans covered.

While the beans are cooking, combine the pork and oil in a heavy saucepan large enough to hold all the ingredients and set over medium heat. Brown the pork cubes on all sides, then add the garlic, onions, sweet peppers, poblanos, jalapeños, and tomatillos. Stir and continue cooking for about 15 minutes.

Bring the water to a boil. Add the beans, with their liquid, to the pork and then add enough of the boiling water to cover all the ingredients to a depth of 1 inch or so. Bring the liquid to a simmer and taste. Stir in the paprika, cumin, and ground chile pepper. Lower the heat to just simmering, cover the pan, and cook the pork and beans together for 45 minutes to 1 hour, until the beans are very tender.

Meanwhile, strip the kale from its tough center stems. Discard the stems and sliver the green leaves.

When the beans are tender, stir in salt and pepper to taste and the slivered greens. Let the greens cook until done, 15 to 20 minutes, then stir in the chopped cilantro.

Serve, if you wish, with crispy corn tortillas or polenta, as suggested in the headnote. Pass a bowl of yogurt to garnish the stew, if you like.

Polenta

Makes 6 to 8 servings

  • Sea salt
  • 1½ cups coarsely ground cornmeal

Bring 6 cups water to a rolling boil, stir in 1 tablespoon salt, and lower the heat to just simmering. Stirring with a wooden spoon, slowly pour in the cornmeal, stirring continuously while you pour. Cook, continuing to stir slowly, for about 20 minutes, reaching with the spoon all over the bottom of the pan. This is tedious but necessary in order to prevent lumps from forming in what is essentially cornmeal porridge. Protect your stirring arm with an oven mitt. The boiling polenta can act like Mount Vesuvius, sending up volcanic splatters of lava-hot polenta.

Continue cooking for up to 10 minutes longer, or until the polenta is very thick and gives off a pleasant corny aroma. When it has reached the right consistency, stop stirring but leave the pan sitting on the lowest possible heat for another 2 minutes, just to tighten it. Then turn it out onto a heated platter or, for a more traditional presentation, onto a wooden board, and serve with whatever stew, sauce, or meat you’ve chosen to accompany it.