Starting from Scratch

3 Serious Fun

Play Therapy

As you go through the retraining process, play may not be high on your list. You may even have gotten to the point where your relationship with your cat is so disconnected that you can’t imagine playing with him. Your cat might be so consumed with stress that he no longer finds joy in playtime. Play may seem like the last thing you would want to concern yourself with when you have a cat with a behavior problem, but it’s actually going to be one of the most important tools in your behavior modification toolbox.

Cats are playful creatures and they benefit physically, emotionally, and mentally from the experience. Since a cat is a hunter, his body is made for flexibility, speed, and accuracy. If he’s not able to flex those muscles and enjoy a good play session, there can be a chain reaction of negative consequences. Physically, he needs a certain amount of exercise on a regular basis to keep his body in good shape.

As a hunter, the cat’s senses are extremely sharp. He’s tuned in to his environment and is alert to the slightest sounds, sights, and scents. The mental aspect of playtime is important because it allows the cat to satisfy his prey-drive, and that’s a normal part of being a cat.

Emotionally, playtime can be used to help build confidence, reduce stress, fight depression, and combat behavior problems.

The type of play therapy I’m referring to isn’t just the fuzzy mouse you bought for your cat that sits in the corner gathering dust—it’s targeted play therapy specifically designed for your cat’s physical, mental, and emotional needs. Even though you’ll know this play therapy is serious stuff, as far as your cat is concerned, he’ll just think you’ve increased the fun factor in your home.

OBESITY

Based on the high number of obese cats I see in my consultations, too many are getting way too much food and little or no exercise. The result of that combination can put the cat at risk for arthritis, diabetes, or heart disease. It can also lead to other problems if the cat becomes too overweight to groom himself. He may no longer be able to reach around to groom his hindquarters. If the cat can’t keep his body as clean as he’d like to, that not only leads to potential skin and hair coat problems, but also can lead to depression. Cats were not meant to look like they swallowed a football. Their legs and joints weren’t meant to carry an enormous amount of weight. I have seen cats who were so fat, their legs became invisible beneath the overstuffed pillows of body fat—all that I could see was their paws.

If your cat is overweight, it may be contributing to the behavior problems he’s having. For example, he may be eliminating outside the litter box because he’s no longer comfortable getting inside it. Based on the location of the box, it may take too much effort for him to reach it, especially if he has to go up or down stairs.

An obese cat who cannot get around as quickly as he used to may become the victim in a multicat home. He may begin to display personality changes if he feels his place in the pecking order has shifted. If he can no longer get away from a more aggressive cat, he may start hiding more.

If your overweight cat is unable to groom himself or is experiencing weight-related pain such as arthritis, his disposition may change to one of a grumpy, irritable kitty. This may affect his relationship with you as well as the relationship he has with any companion pets in the home.

Problems around the feeding station may be contributing to the cat’s weight increase. If your cat is worried that other companion cats are going to get the food, he may be overeating. If that’s the case, you not only have the problem of the obese cat, but also the problem of the intercat relationships. The cat’s increased weight can be the symptom of a behavior problem occurring within the home.

The overeating can be due to boredom. Cats were built to do something. Regardless of the type of cat you have, he was born to hunt. Some breeds are more efficient at that than others, but basically being a hunter is at the core of every feline. That doesn’t mean your cat must go out and drag home every mouse, bird, or snake in the yard, but if your cat is overweight, it does mean that there’s too much emphasis on food and not enough on fun.

You may think your cat doesn’t have much of a prey-drive because his stomach is always full. Not true. Some cat owners used to believe they could reduce the amount of prey their cats dragged home if they let them outdoors only after a meal. The truth is, a full stomach doesn’t cut down on the amount of hunting a cat (of a healthy weight) will do—it cuts down only on the amount of prey the cat may actually ingest. The problem the obese cat has is that it becomes too much effort physically to haul that big body around to hunt. The prey-drive is buried deep in there, though, and once you find just a spark, you can motivate your cat to move again.

A weight-reduction plan requires the combination of an appropriate nutritional program for your cat as well as an increase in activity. For information on how to start a weight-reduction program and behavior problems associated with mealtime, refer to chapter 7. Combine that with the play-therapy information in this chapter, and hopefully your cat will be on his way to better health and better behavior.

HOW TO USE PLAY THERAPY TO YOUR ADVANTAGE

There are so many reasons to make play therapy work for you to improve life for your cat. It starts, of course, with the physical benefits, as I mentioned previously. That alone should be reason enough to retrain your cat and yourself to the idea of regularly scheduled playtime. The extra benefit, though, is that play therapy can be used as part of a behavior modification program. It can be a powerful way to change a cat’s mind about a negative experience or location. For a cat eliminating outside the litter box, play therapy can help him change his impression about the area where he’s inappropriately eliminating. Used correctly, play therapy can defuse a tense situation between companion cats or help a timid cat develop more confidence. If your cat is terrified of visitors in the home, play therapy will be one of the methods you can use to ease his fears and increase his comfort level. When destruction or disturbing nocturnal activities are the issue, play therapy may be what saves the cat from being banished to another room or, worse, rehomed.

One of my favorite reasons to teach cat owners about play therapy is that it can help strengthen the cat-human bond. If you’ve been dealing with a long-term behavior problem or you’ve used inappropriate methods of behavior modification, your relationship with your cat may be distant, one of mere tolerance, or even hostile. Your cat may have learned to fear you because he knows he’s going to be chased, yelled at, put in “time-out,” or physically hit. These are things that can damage the relationship, and sometimes can turn the cat and owner into enemies under one roof. So whether you’re dealing with a tiny behavior problem or a major one, play therapy should be a required activity. It won’t just be fun for the cat; it’ll be fun for you, I promise!

INTERACTIVE PLAY

If you’re like most kitty owners, you probably have a basket in the corner of a room filled with cute little toys for your cat. There’s a reason why they continue to just sit there gathering dust day after day, and that’s because they’re dead prey. For your cat to get any use out of them requires him to create all the movements, and that means he has to play the part of both the hunter and the prey. As a hunter, he’s attracted to movement, sound, sight, and smell. Those fuzzy mice sitting in that basket hold no interest. That’s where interactive playtime works so well, because the cat doesn’t have to do the extra work to make the prey come to life. When you use an interactive toy with your cat, he gets to fully enjoy being the hunter.

Many people love to tell me how unique their cats are because they play fetch just like a dog. They think their cats are so amazingly smart because they picked up that trick on their own. Well, the truth is, their cats are actually extremely smart, but the behavior is not all that unusual. After the person has thrown the ball or toy a few times, the cat realizes that the only way this “prey” comes to life is when the person has it. So, smart kitty trots back with the toy in his mouth and deposits it at the human’s feet. When your cat plays fetch, it’s usually a sign that he’s in need of a better quality of playtime, and that’s where interactive play comes in.

This type of play involves the use of a toy that you hold to control the movements. There are many types of interactive toys on the market. Some are fishing-pole designs with a pole, string, and a toy dangling from the end of the string, but that’s just the beginning. There are poles with feathers, streamers, or jingly toys attached directly to them (without strings), and there are some with a long, snakelike piece of material attached. Not all interactive toys are good or well made. Since a successful interactive play therapy session starts with the right kind of toy, I’m going to help you navigate your way through the toy aisle.

CHOOSING INTERACTIVE TOYS

Your cat may end up with one favorite toy, but it’s good to get a variety of types so you can trigger different hunting techniques. Some toys are meant to simulate the motion of a bird while others may imitate a snake. When a cat hunts in the wild, he may have a taste preference, but if he’s needing a meal, he’ll hunt what’s available. So although he may prefer a bird, he might have to settle for a mouse or a chipmunk. When you do your play sessions, it’s good to vary the types of toys so your cat can exercise different hunting techniques. A very athletic cat may excel at air hunting and leap high to accurately capture the birdlike toy. An obese cat or a very timid one may need to start with ground hunting techniques, and so a toy that mimics snake or mouse movements would be best.

When you first start shopping, think carefully about the personality of your cat and how active he is currently. If you have more than one cat, you might find they’ll end up with different favorites. Whatever toys are chosen should be well made, and you need to be able to move them in a way that’ll trigger the cat’s prey-drive. You don’t want to choose a toy that has a very short wand because that will put your hand too close to where the cat will be biting or pawing. A long pole with a string and a toy on the end of it is ideal because it puts a very safe distance between your fingers and the cat’s teeth. It also allows the toy to be the main focus because the string will essentially become invisible once the cat’s prey-drive kicks in. The long pole and string also help maintain the comfort zone for the cat. This is of vital importance if you’re working with a timid or poorly socialized cat. If the toy is short and you’re too close to the cat, it can prevent him from focusing on the play session because he has to keep an eye on you. For the play therapy to work, the cat has to be able to turn all of his attention to the toy and not have to worry about anything else around him. Keep this in mind as you look at the toys in the store. A toy may look like a lot of fun from a human’s point of view—small wand, big bright feathers—but will it work for an effective interactive session?

Don’t get any toys that are designed like gloves with extended fingers. Even if the glove is heavy-duty enough to prevent injury from scratches (and I have yet to see one made that strong), you will be sending a mixed message to your cat. Your fingers should never become a part of the toy itself.

If you have a robust, active cat, you can choose a larger toy, but if your cat is timid or depressed, you may have to start with something less intimidating. You want the toy at the end of the string to be the approximate size of prey or even smaller. A cat wouldn’t hunt something his own size or larger. He goes after prey that’s within his conquering capabilities. A cat also has a small stomach, so he hunts something he’ll generally be able to consume. The toy doesn’t have to be pretty; it has to be effective. It also doesn’t have to be expensive, but it does have to be well constructed.

You may find that the types of toys you initially buy for your timid or obese cat, or one who is not used to playtime, will change as he gets more skilled and confident. Ground hunting may be the preferred playtime method for a few weeks or months. You’ll watch your cat’s abilities, and as he gets more comfortable or active, you can incorporate more athletic forms of interactive play therapy.

All the toys you purchase for interactive play must be put away out of the cat’s reach when the play sessions are over. This is to protect the cat from injury and also to keep the toys special. You’ll have other safe solo toys for your cat to have around the house 24/7, but the interactive toys need to keep their strong appeal. This controlled access is one of the important ways they’re able to be used for behavior modification.

For air-hunting toys, a fishing-pole type is best because the toy on the end of the string can move freely. The one that has topped my list for many years is Da Bird. This outstanding toy is a basic fishing-pole design with actual feathers attached at the end of the string. The wow factor comes from the fact that the feathers are attached to a swivel device. When you move the toy through the air, the feathers twirl around to move and sound like actual bird wings. This toy is available in pet supply stores, online, and through mail order. If your cat becomes too enthusiastic and destroys the toy, you can purchase a replacement piece to reattach to the string.

My second favorite toy for cats is the Cat Dancer. This isn’t a fishing-pole design, but rather a strong springy wire with a little rolled cardboard handle on one end and a tightly rolled cardboard target toy on the other end. It sounds too simple to work, but trust me, this is one terrific toy. When you hold the handle end, rest your index finger on the wire, and with gentle movements you can make the toy dart like a cricket. There are so many benefits to this toy, and you’ll learn about them a little later. The Cat Dancer is very inexpensive and available just about everywhere.

Another great toy along the same lines as the Cat Dancer is the Dragonfly. This toy consists of a Mylar dragonfly suspended from a strong and flexible wire. The Mylar makes the toy’s movements and sounds very irresistible to many cats. The toy is available in some pet supply stores, but the easiest place to find it is online.

For a snake toy, there are several options. The Cat Charmer (made by the company that makes the Cat Dancer) is a well-made basic toy with a long, thin fleece ribbon attached to a pole. Our Cat Charmer has withstood countless cat pounces and attacks for many years. There are other snakelike toys available as well. Just make sure the one you choose is well made so the snake doesn’t separate from the wand after a few play sessions.

There are so many terrific interactive toys available. The ones I mentioned are just a few of the foundation toys you should have as you begin the retraining process. As you familiarize yourself with your cat’s play techniques, you’ll continue to tweak your toy repertoire.

CATWISE REMINDER

Put all interactive toys away when the session is over to prevent the risk of your cat chewing on strings or breaking off pieces, which could cause choking.

INTERACTIVE PLAY THERAPY TECHNIQUES

Now that you have the right toys, the next step is learning how to use them correctly. Oh, I know you’re probably rolling your eyes at the thought of having to be taught how to use a cat toy, but there’s a right way and a wrong way. If you do it the wrong way, as many people do, you won’t be engaging the cat’s brain and benefiting him emotionally. The wrong technique may work the cat physically, but it also annoys or frustrates him. It’s time for a retraining checkup to see whether you’ve been playing the wrong way.

Many cat owners use two general approaches to interactive playtime, both of which are counterproductive. The first involves dangling the toy in the cat’s face. The cat responds by swatting or biting the toy. Often, the posture he takes is to sit up on his haunches and box the toy. That’s not playtime—that’s a defensive reaction. The second way I often see owners play with their cats is to take the toy and move it wildly about, sometimes having the cats doing nonstop flips and chasing it until their sides are heaving and their mouths are open in desperate panting.

The reason the above methods are wrong is that both of them create a negative reaction. Playtime is supposed to be fun, not annoying and frustrating. It’s also supposed to imitate the way a cat would naturally hunt, so the movements of the toy have to simulate that of prey. I don’t know of any suicidal prey who would willingly dangle themselves in a cat’s face, hoping to be captured. And although a hungry cat in the wild might have to exhaust himself to catch a meal, his technique most often involves stalking and then pouncing—not chasing until his heart is about to leap out of his chest.

For a cat, the hunting technique is very efficient. He uses his brain as much as his body. If you have never seen your own cat in a hunt (even if it’s to capture a tiny spider in the house), I’m sure you’ve seen the image on television. The cat silently stalks his prey, using whatever is around for cover. The hunter is silent and invisible as he inches closer and closer. In the wild, he may hide behind a tree and then slink low to the ground as he moves to the next tree or bush. A cat will also often hunt in tall grass, as it’s an ideal place to find prey such as mice, but also because he can move through it without detection. When the cat gets within striking distance, he pounces with amazing speed. If all goes well, he is able to inflict what is known as the killing bite by severing the prey’s spinal cord with his two sharp canine teeth. Otherwise, he grasps the prey with his front paws. The technique is based on the cat’s incredible senses, his stealth, and his speed.

If you want to have a successful and beneficial interactive play session with your cat, you have to trigger his prey-drive, and the way to trigger it is to move the toy like prey. If you have been playing with your cat the wrong way in the past, you and your kitty are about to discover a fun new world.

Play therapy will function in two ways. One way is for maintenance and should be scheduled on a regular basis. The other way is targeted specifically for behavior problems. We’ll start with the maintenance version of interactive play therapy.

Since cats don’t prefer to hunt in flat open areas, you’ll need to set the scene to be a more natural environment for him. If you’re playing in a room with several free-standing furniture pieces, then you’re already in good shape. If your room has furniture that’s all set against walls, then the area in the middle is too open and vulnerable for him. When he hunts/plays, he needs opportunities for cover. The cover will simulate bushes, trees, logs, tall grass—things that would naturally be in the environment where a cat might hunt. You can add to the atmosphere by placing open paper bags or boxes in the open center of the room. Even a pillow tossed on the floor will work in a pinch. You want to create things for him to hide behind, over, and underneath.

How to use the toys comes next. If you are using a toy that mimics air hunting, such as Da Bird, don’t wave it in the air nonstop. Since you want this to be a fun and satisfying experience, alternate between having the prey fly through the air and walk on the ground. Very often, it’s when the bird is feeding on the ground that the cat sneaks up and pounces. Make the toy hide behind a piece of furniture and “peek” out at the cat. Even a subtle quivering of the toy will put the cat’s eyes and ears on alert. It’s the time between the prey’s frantic movements that the cat inches up and plans his attack. You want your cat to use his brain as much as his body. Don’t keep the toy in constant motion. Watch as your cat does his best and most stealthy maneuvering when the toy is momentarily still.

With a wire toy such as the Cat Dancer or Dragonfly, you can mimic a cricket, grasshopper, or fly. When you subtly twitch the wire with your finger, notice the erratic movements of the target toy at the end. This is similar to the erratic way a cricket might jump or a fly might buzz around. The unpredictable movements cause the cat to really lock his focus on the prey. You can make the Cat Dancer dart in and out of a bag or box and dash behind the leg of a chair or underneath the sofa. Alternate with a few movements through the air and you’ve created the next best thing to having a grasshopper in your living room, but without the panic from human family members.

Snake toys such as the Cat Charmer can slither around a corner or up and over a piece of furniture. It’s not the waving-in-the-air motion that’ll trigger the prey-drive, but the slowly-disappearing-out-of-sight movement.

If you don’t have the three toys I’ve listed, use whatever ones you’ve chosen and try to create preylike movements. Think of it as the feline version of hide-and-seek. Alternate fast and slow, high and low. The toy doesn’t have to actually look like the type of prey you’re imitating. What matters is that it is acting like prey.

CATWISE CLUE

When you move the toy like prey, move it away from your cat or across his field of vision. This is the movement that sparks the prey-drive.

You can start the game by triggering his prey-drive through sound. Very often it’s the squeak of a mouse or the sound of something rustling through leaves that alerts the cat. Use sound often throughout the game by having the toy “walk” on a surface such as the floor or the inside of a box, which can be irresistible to your cat. The sound of the Cat Dancer darting around inside a box or paper bag will be hard for your cat to ignore. If you’re using a silent toy such as a long feather, make those movements count to compensate for the lack of sound. The feather can slowly inch its way out from under the chair and very slightly wiggle to catch your cat’s eye.

An extremely important rule of interactive play therapy has to do with success. If this is to be beneficial and fun, your cat needs to have multiple captures. Don’t make it too much of a challenge for him to successfully grab the toy in his mouth or his paws. Sometimes a cat owner gets carried away with trying to keep the toy out of the cat’s reach and it ends up being frustrating for the poor kitty. Periodically, let your cat successfully pounce on or grab the toy. If he starts to walk away with it or won’t let go, give the toy some slack and let him enjoy his capture for a few moments. When he notices that the prey isn’t resisting, he may loosen his grip or drop it from his mouth. That’s when you can have it come back to life. Don’t try to yank the toy out of his mouth or engage in a tug-of-war, because that will only make him hold on to it harder, which could cause injury to his teeth, or, at the very least, the toy could break. The game isn’t about how long you can keep the toy away from the cat—it’s about how rewarding the session is for him.

When you’re ready for the game to end, don’t abruptly stop, or you’ll leave the cat still revved up and wondering what the heck happened to his prey. When the game is over you want your cat to be relaxed, satisfied, and feeling like the mighty hunter. Snatching the toy away won’t accomplish that. The proper method is to slowly wind down the movements, almost as if the prey is getting tired or injured. If you’re using an air-hunting toy, pretend the bird can no longer fly, so have all movements be low to the ground. As the toy gets slower and slower and eventually the prey “dies,” your cat will start to relax, feeling as if he accomplished his final grand capture.

PLAY THERAPY SCHEDULE

When I do consultations and ask clients how often they play with their cats, many times I get blank stares. Sure, the cats have plenty of toys, but the clients don’t recall exactly when they last engaged in interactive play. Some cat owners try to do the play sessions but end up haphazardly fitting them in once every week or so. That does nothing for the cat.

Play therapy for maintenance should ideally be done twice a day. In general, a maintenance play therapy session can last about fifteen minutes. I know everyone is so busy these days, but that’s just thirty minutes out of your day to provide your cat with a tremendously rewarding activity. The playtime, which simulates a hunt, is in keeping with what is a natural part of a cat’s daily life. Provide this on a regular basis and your cat gets the activity and stimulation essential to being feline—and you get a powerful tool to help keep your cat healthy. You also get a tool that helps in preventing behavior problems.

The key here is consistency. Do the play sessions every day, not every two or three days. Some days you may be able to get in only one session; that’s understandable, but the more you stick to the schedule, the better it is for your cat. Your cat needs this stimulation and activity on a regular basis. If you don’t have a full fifteen minutes to devote to a play session, do whatever you can. Your cat will enjoy any amount of time you can give him, and no matter how long your play sessions are, whether they’re five minutes or thirty minutes, remember to wind down the action at the end in order to leave your cat relaxed and satisfied.

Since play therapy simulates a hunt, it can be especially rewarding for the cat to enjoy a feast after his capture. You don’t have to offer a literal feast—it can be just a treat or you can divide up his daily portion of food in order to offer a small serving. Serving a portion of food works only if you feed on a schedule and don’t free-feed. If you free-feed, you can offer a piece of a treat. You don’t have to do this last part of offering food, but if your cat is on a weight-reduction program, this may help if he gets used to “working for food” and burning off some calories beforehand. It can also be a wonderful reward if two cats did a good job of parallel play without any negative reactions or intimidation. You don’t always have to time it so that food is offered after playtime; it’s something extra you can put in your behavior modification toolbox to use if it helps in the retraining process.

Once you get on a consistent schedule, you’ll find that your cat starts to get right into it when he sees you with the toy. It’s very rewarding when you notice your normally sedentary cat perk up when he sees you walking toward the closet where the toys are kept.

If you have a cat who isn’t responding to play therapy no matter how realistic your toy movements are, try other toys. With some cats it can take a few tries before you hit on the one that creates a reaction. For a fearful cat who isn’t responding, take the toy off the end of the fishing pole and just entice him with the dangling string. Add the toy later, when he starts to develop more confidence. Catnip can also be used in most cases to jump-start a sluggish cat’s desire to play, since it reduces inhibition.

INTERACTIVE PLAY SESSIONS FOR MULTIPLE CATS

One way to exacerbate a current behavior problem is to ask two or more cats to compete for one toy during a play session. If you have two cats who get along famously and enjoy playing cooperatively with one interactive toy, then you can consider having them share. For the most part, though, it can be frustrating for one cat to have to sit back and watch another get the capture. If one cat is intimidated by a companion cat in general, you’ll see that show up during interactive playtime. The more confident cat will take charge of the game and the less confident one will either reluctantly attempt to participate or just sit back and watch. Either way, the event triggers stress and possibly fear in that cat, and that’s certainly not what you intended when you brought out the toy. If you have a couple of cats, pay attention to how they have played together in the past. Do they seem to be equal in who gets to be the aggressor, or is one cat always in charge? You don’t want to continue any negativity in the relationship by giving the bossier cat another way to be intimidating.

Group interactive playtime will involve the use of more than one toy. If you have another family member in the home, then group playtime will go smoothly as you take a toy and the other family member takes a toy. You each concentrate on one cat and this becomes a game of parallel play. The cats are aware of each other in the room, but they aren’t competing for one toy. The distance between your toy and your family member’s toy will depend on how well the cats get along. Be careful, though, you don’t want them crashing into each other as they stalk and pounce.

If you’re alone and want to conduct a group session, take two interactive toys and hold one in each hand. It’s easier if you use two of the same type of toy so you don’t have one arm doing one type of movement while trying to have the other arm do something totally different. It may seem awkward at first to handle two toys, but with practice you’ll develop more coordination. The room has to be large enough so that things don’t get too chaotic.

If you’re using two toys and one cat seems to lose interest in his own toy and starts focusing on the other cat’s toy, just make his toy’s movements more enticing than the other’s temporarily, until you can get him refocused. If he pounces on the other cat’s toy, quickly get the other kitty interested in the new toy. It doesn’t have to be so strictly set up that one cat must play only with his assigned toy. The point of the dual toys is to prevent competition and intimidation.

If you’re alone and you have three or more cats, use two toys and do the best you can to evenly distribute stalk/pounce opportunities. If one of the cats is especially aggressive and makes it hard for the other two to enjoy the game, then group play isn’t a good option right now. Put the aggressive kitty in a separate room during your playtime with the others. Do a group play with the two cats who get along, and then do an individual play session with the other cat. After you work on the behavior modification for whatever that cat’s problem is, you may be able to include him in the group session with one or both of your other cats.

INTERACTIVE PLAY THERAPY FOR RETRAINING

There are several ways to use play therapy to help in behavior modification. It may not seem as if playtime would be appropriate for a cat who is misbehaving, but it can actually be a powerful way to refocus him and defuse tension.

First of all, if your cat is displaying any type of behavior problem, you must incorporate the maintenance version of play therapy on a daily basis. Previously, I mentioned that sessions can be done once a day if you occasionally can’t find the time to conduct them twice a day. If your cat has a behavior problem, however, you need to find that extra time in your schedule to fit in two sessions. If you’re trying to retrain a serious behavior problem, then you’re in crisis mode right now and you need to pull out all the stops. Your plan must be focused and intense. Very often a behavior problem creeps up, gradually getting worse and worse over time. It’s not unusual for a cat owner not to notice what’s occurring until something dramatic happens, such as overt aggression or urination outside the litter box. That means this problem has been incubating for a while, and your efforts have to be more concentrated, rather than casual and convenient. Another thing to remember is that you are your cat’s whole world. All of his attention, affection, food, safety, and so forth come from you. We humans have so much going on in our lives that it’s easy to forget how much our cats may look forward to our arrival home at the end of the day. Cats and dogs are companion animals, and when we take on the responsibility of having companion animals in our lives, we need to do our share in those relationships. Retraining a cat with a behavior problem may mean we don’t get to watch an extra half hour of television or we have to stay up an extra fifteen minutes at night in order to get a play session in, but the rewards will outweigh the inconvenience. Think of this as an investment in avoiding behavior problems in the future in addition to correcting the current issue. The eight weeks or so (depending on the severity and type of problem) you spend retraining the cat and faithfully doing the interactive play therapy will be well worth it when you start to see your cat get along with his companion cat, successfully use the litter box, remain calm when visitors come, or whatever it is you want to see your cat do.

In addition to maintenance, you can use play therapy for redirection. This type of play is quick and immediate but timing is crucial. When your cat shows signs that he is about to display the unwanted behavior, redirect his attention toward a toy. As I said, timing is crucial, because you need to refocus him before the actual behavior takes place. If your timing is off and he has already engaged in the unwanted behavior, then your play therapy will be a reinforcement of that behavior. You have to catch him while it’s still a thought in his head or he’s walking toward an area where the unwanted behavior usually takes place. The redirection changes his mind-set from negative to positive because you’re instantly triggering his prey-drive. You don’t have to do a full-scale play session; you just have to create preylike movements to distract him and then let him have a capture.

Redirection works well in several circumstances. Here are a few typical examples. Let’s say you’re trying to retrain your cat out of his behavior of spraying. In the past, if you caught him walking toward an object and thought he might spray, or if he backed up to the object, you may have yelled or chased him away. Although that prevented the one incident of spraying, he probably sprayed somewhere else when you weren’t looking. Your negative reaction also created anxiety, and possibly fear, in him. Your new approach is going to be to come at things from the positive side in order to reduce stress and put your cat in a frame of mind where he feels more secure. So now when your cat starts walking toward an area and you suspect he’s going to spray, redirect his attention toward a toy. Since his frame of mind is negative or anxious when he is headed toward the spray target, your play therapy redirection technique sparks his prey-drive, which immediately creates excited anticipation. Another important aspect of the redirection technique is that if you misread your cat’s intentions and he isn’t going to spray, then all that happens is he gets a little bonus playtime. With the previous technique of yelling or chasing, imagine how confused and scared the cat would be if he had no intention of spraying.

Another typical example of the power of redirection is when you’re working on intercat relationships. One cat may be bullying another cat on a regular basis, and you notice he’s walking toward his victim, who happens to be looking out the window, unaware of what’s about to happen. If your previous technique was to yell or chase, that sent the aggressor out of the room, but it also probably startled the unsuspecting cat. It also does nothing to help the cats develop tolerance toward each other. Instead, use the redirection technique to quickly refocus the aggressor on the toy instead of his victim. Although he may be intent on stalking his victim, the opportunity to pounce on a mouse is usually too hard to pass up. The result of this is that the aggressor’s mind-set shifts from negative to positive and the victim remains unharmed. As with the previous example of spraying, your timing is important, so you have to make sure you redirect the behavior before the cat attacks his victim. And again, if you misread your cat’s intentions, there is no harm done in that he receives an extra opportunity for play.

Use redirection whenever you need to refocus a cat away from something or away from a behavior you suspect is about to occur. In order for it to work, though, you have to have a supply of interactive toys conveniently located. You’ll miss the opportunity for redirection if you have to run downstairs to the closet to search for a toy. During the retraining period, keep a stash of interactive toys in various locations around the house. The Cat Dancer is great for redirection because the wire can be coiled around so it fits neatly in a drawer or behind a picture. The toy is also inexpensive enough that it won’t break the budget to buy in multiples. When it comes to redirection, you don’t have to use big, inconvenient toys; use whatever will get a positive reaction. If your cat likes Ping-Pong balls, Mylar balls, or fuzzy mice, keep a supply in several locations so you can toss or roll one to trigger the prey-drive. As you start doing the maintenance interactive play sessions, you’ll become more familiar with what toys are hard for your cat to resist. Use that knowledge to develop a stash of toys for redirection. Once I was in my kitchen and needed to defuse some mounting tension between my two cats nearby, and I used the ring from the milk container (a cat fave). I quietly opened the refrigerator, took the ring off the plastic jug, and then tossed it so it skidded along the floor. Prey-drive kicked in instantly.

When you use redirection, don’t toss the toy at your cat. Remember that the prey-drive is triggered by objects moving away from or across your cat’s visual field.

Play therapy can be used in another variation to change a cat’s mind-set. This involves creating a positive association with something that is currently viewed by the cat as negative. Do this by conducting one of your play sessions in a negatively viewed area. For example, if your cat is frightened of a certain room or an object within that room, start by doing a play session near but not in that area. You need to be far enough away at first so the cat remains within his comfort zone. After a few sessions, move closer, but be very conservative in how quickly you think you can progress. It’s always better to go more slowly than you think you need to in order to prevent the cat from having a negative reaction. These play sessions can be your regular maintenance ones or you can add a few extra ones in these areas. If your cat has urine-sprayed in certain areas, do play sessions in each of the areas to change his association with those spots. For a cat afraid of a particular room, inch your way in gradually through play sessions. Sometimes the problem is that the cat is frightened of coming out of a particular room. The play therapy starts in the room for several sessions, and then you can inch your way to the threshold and, hopefully, beyond. Let the cat set the pace of how quickly he’s ready to advance. Fear of an object such as a vacuum cleaner can often be reduced through gradual desensitization and play therapy. Specifics on this can be found in chapter 4. I can’t stress enough how gradually you have to do this if the problem is fear-based.

Play therapy for positive association can be used during group play if you have two cats who have a tense relationship. Do parallel play, so that the cats are aware of each other in the room yet each can remain within his comfort zone. They’ll hopefully start to realize that having the other one around isn’t such a bad thing.

Play therapy also works when you need to change your cat’s mind-set after a negative event. If your cat has had a bad experience, such as being ambushed in the litter box, do a casual, comforting version of play therapy to trigger some degree of prey-drive. Depending upon what happened, he may not jump right into the game, but if you can show through your body language that you’re relaxed and the toy is moving like prey, you just might see a spark in his eye. I always try to leave things on a positive note with a cat so he doesn’t stay curled up somewhere, turning what might have been a momentary negative occurrence into a major trauma. A note of caution, though, is that this method shouldn’t be used if your cat is aggressively reactive due to something traumatic. He needs time to calm down and get his bearings again before you attempt to elicit a positive response from him.

You now have a better understanding of the importance of play therapy and how it can help facilitate the retraining process. The coolest part about all of this is that while you’re using it to modify behavior, exercise, desensitize, redirect, and so on, your cat is just having fun.

SOLO PLAY

Your cat benefits from stimulation and activity in his environment, and there are ways you can provide that even while you aren’t at home. A cat typically spends about nine to twelve hours a day alone in the house without you there as the source of his entertainment. Help him make the most of that time alone by creating activities for his enjoyment during solo play.

Solo play is not a replacement for interactive play, but it can add to a cat’s enjoyment of his environment tremendously. We can start with the toys you already have. Gather up all of those fuzzy mice and other little toys and put most of them away in the closet. If you have too many toys just lying around, they don’t become special anymore. Rotate toys on a regular basis so that you’re putting out only a few at a time. That way, when the other toys come out, they’ll seem fresh again. You should also use this time to throw out toys that are ripped with stuffing exposed or have loose pieces in danger of coming off. If the toys are favorites of your cat and you can do some repair work on them, that’s fine—just make sure the toys are safe.

You may also need to purchase a few new toys for solo playtime, especially if the toys you have for your cat are old and he hasn’t shown any interest in them in quite a while. When you go to the store, look for toys that will create an interesting movement when the cat bats at them, and ones that seem as if they would be fun to paw at. For example, many cats love the ring from around the milk containers. You can buy safer versions of those at the pet supply store. They’re light and move easily across the floor with just the lightest touch of the paw.

Mylar crinkly balls are practically indestructible, make a great sound when touched or batted, and move across the floor with ease. They are widely available at pet supply stores.

You can find toy mice in a wide variety of styles, fabrics, sizes, and shapes. Get a small assortment but choose them based on your cat’s personality and size. If your cat is small, don’t get a large stuffed mouse.

Feathered toys are always popular with cats; just make sure the feathers are securely attached to the toy. Peacock feathers are usually a hit with cats.

Sound should also factor into some of your toy choices. Not all toys have to make a sound, but you may find a couple that create great little squeaks and noises. Bells in toys are very popular, but they don’t make the type of sound that typically triggers the prey-drive. It’s those little rustling sounds, like the one the Mylar balls make or the sound of a toy skidding across the floor. The squeak of a mouse can be what triggers your particular cat to go on the hunt. Play-N-Squeak is a stuffed mouse that contains a sound-generating chip inside. When the mouse is batted at or moved, it squeaks. The toy is well made and many cats love it. If you have a very small cat, though, the size of the mouse may be too large, so consider that as you look it over. If you have a small cat who loves to tackle the larger toys, then the Play-N-Squeak may be just what he needs. This toy is widely available in stores and online.

There’s such a variety of toys for solo play that I’m sure you’ll be able to find several that will be perfect for your cat. No matter how wild you get when you go on your shopping spree, remember to put out only a few and rotate all toys.

When you put out these toys, don’t just toss them in a basket. Instead, strategically place them in spots around your cat’s play area for him to discover. Put one toy on the cat tree and have another peeking out from under a chair. I love to set the stage for my cats’ daytime fun before I leave the house in the morning. The fact that all the toys are in different locations when I return tells me they enjoyed the extra activity while I was gone.

Use boxes and bags for solo playtime as well. You’ve probably seen how much fun it is for a cat to investigate an open paper bag. Now, instead of having him jump in with your groceries, give him a couple of bags of his very own. Fold a cuff around the edge of the bag to help it stay open and then toss a toy in there. Boxes can be wonderful toys for cats, so get creative with one when you purchase a boxed item or receive a delivery. Leave the box open and toss a toy in there for your cat to bat around, or cut some holes in the box and turn it upside down as a hideaway. A Ping-Pong ball can be placed inside an empty tissue box for your cat to paw at. Use the rectangular large-size tissue boxes instead of the small square ones so there’s room for the ball to roll around. Ping-Pong balls make a great sound as they roll across the floor. Just be sure your cat doesn’t tend to bite hard when playing with Ping-Pong balls so there’s no risk of puncturing the ball. Don’t use Ping-Pong balls in a home with a dog, to avoid the risk of the dog’s puncturing the ball or swallowing it.

Play tunnels can serve as fun places and also napping hideaways. You can find soft-sided tunnels at pet supply stores and online. Puzzle-type games and puzzle feeders are terrific for providing stimulation for solo play. Use the Peek-a-Prize and the Play-N-Treat balls for added hunting opportunities and stimulation. For more puzzle-feeding ideas, refer to chapter 2.

Some motion toys can be used for solo playtime. The Panic Mouse is a motorized toy on a wire that flips and flops around its base. You can vary the speed, which is important for customizing it to your cat’s personality. However, it can be easily tipped over when the cat grabs the target toy, so this is one motion toy you should use only when you’re nearby in case it needs to be put back right side up. The Panic Mouse isn’t a substitute for interactive play, but it can be a fun addition if your cats are in need of play and you have something else you need to do. This toy is widely available in stores and online.

When you’re considering a motion toy, think about your cat’s personality before you purchase it. A timid cat may not do well with one of these toys; it would be better to stick to your manual interactive play sessions and nonthreatening solo toys. One of my cats is basically fearless and could play twenty-four hours a day without sleep, so she enjoys those extra play sessions with her Panic Mouse.

CATNIP

When you go toy shopping, you’ll come across many catnip-filled or catnip-scented toys. Some companies make top-quality catnip toys, but others use the lowest grade of catnip. If you know that the quality of the catnip is good and your cat responds to it, that’s great, but if you’re in doubt, it’s better to buy plain toys and rub catnip on them yourself.

CATWISE CLUE

When shopping for loose catnip, choose brands that state that only leaves and blossoms are used. Lots of stems in the catnip indicates lower quality.

Catnip or catnip-filled toys should be given to your cat only once or twice a week. Don’t leave anything with catnip around all the time because a cat can actually lose his ability to respond to it.

Catnip can be a wonderful addition to the retraining process. Keep a container of good-quality catnip on hand for those special once-or twice-weekly catnip-party play sessions. Catnip is a totally harmless herb, and when a cat inhales it, he experiences about fifteen to twenty minutes of fun. It allows the cat to be less inhibited, and that can be a great way to reduce stress or jump-start a play session. It’s the component nepetalactone in the volatile oil that causes the wonderful reaction. To release the oil, rub the dried catnip between your fingers before giving it to your cat.

You can use loose catnip in several ways. Put some in the bottom of a clean sock, knot the end, and let your cat have his way with this homemade kick bag. You can rub it on toys to make them more appealing or you can keep a few fuzzy mice or crinkly balls in a container of catnip so they’ll be primed and ready to go when you need them. Catnip can be rubbed on a scratching post to entice your cat to it. You can even just sprinkle loose catnip on the floor or on a paper plate and let your cat roll around and have a blast. Although the catnip effect is created through inhalation, it’s not surprising to find a cat licking or eating it. Don’t worry, that’s totally harmless.

In addition to the regular schedule you have for catnip parties, use it for behavior modification when needed. If your cat has seemed tense or nervous, a souped-up play session with catnip might be perfect. If you’ve had visitors over and your cat is still reacting negatively even after they have gone, offer a little catnip.

Amazingly, cat owners tend to forget about how powerful and useful this herb can be. I find that they either don’t use it to their advantage enough or have given it to their cats so much that it has lost its effect. Use it correctly and it will be a wonderful tool.

CATWISE CLUE

Not every cat responds to catnip, so don’t be concerned if it has no effect on your cat. The catnip response is inherited, and about one-third of the cat population lacks this gene.

If you have a male cat in your multicat home, the first time you expose him to catnip, do it individually before throwing a group party. Some males respond too enthusiastically to catnip and cross over the line into aggression.

Some Uses for Catnip

Rub dried catnip on toys that your cat has lost interest in.
Use catnip as a reward after grooming or nail trimming.
Place a little loose catnip on the examination table at the veterinary clinic to distract your cat.
Throw a catnip party after your cat has had a stressful experience.
Jump-start an interactive play therapy session for a sedentary or overweight cat.
Rub catnip on a scratching post to entice your cat to scratch there.
A catnip-spiked toy tossed on the floor can help distracta cat from a potentially unwanted behavior.
Catnip is a good way for a very active cat to work off his energy.
Throw a catnip party once or twice a week just for…well, just for fun!

CLICKER TRAINING

You may have heard this phrase as it applies to dogs, but there’s a good chance you have never imagined clicker training your cat. Surprise, surprise, cats are actually excellent candidates for clicker training and the technique is very valuable when you’re working on behavior problems. The basic premise is that the clicker “marks” exactly what you want and then you can build a wanted behavior from that using positive reinforcement. The clicker is basically a little plastic noisemaker that sounds like a cricket. There’s nothing especially magical about the clicker; it’s just an easily identifiable sound for the cat and is unique to the typical sounds in your home.

I love clicker training because it allows you to mark the behavior you want from your cat instantly. Every behavior your cat exhibits has a consequence, and it can either be good or bad. With clicker training, you show the cat that desirable behavior results in a good consequence. Your cat is smart and he’ll soon make the connection between behaviors that pay off in a good consequence and ones that don’t have any payoff. This method of training focuses on positives. If the cat doesn’t perform the desired behavior, he doesn’t get rewarded and his brain will quickly tell him that getting rewarded is far better than not getting rewarded. Also, clicker training allows the cat to “work for food,” which is a natural part of being feline. It can be a stress-free and fun way to change negative behaviors and help your cat develop confidence.

Before you can use clicker training for actual problem solving, you have to teach your cat what the sound of the clicker means. It’s easier than you think and it actually requires no work on the cat’s part. To start, you’ll need a clicker. You can find them in just about any pet supply store as well as online. Get more than one just in case it gets misplaced. When you hold the clicker in your hand, depress the indentation or the button (depending on the type of clicker) and you’ll hear a click sound.

The reward you’ll use when clicker training will be food. It’s the most basic reinforcer and, since cats are food-motivated, it’s a natural. If you free-feed your cat, he may not be hungry enough when you do your clicker training session. If that’s the case, switch to scheduled feeding (see chapter 7) or take up the food well in advance of a session. The main reason a session may fail is because the cat simply isn’t hungry. If you schedule-feed, divide up his portions so that you can reserve a little for clicker training sessions.

You can use treats for clicker training, but if you do, break them up into small pieces so you aren’t interfering with the cat’s normal nutrition. Whole treats also take too long to chew and can distract the cat from the session. Some commercial treats, even if broken up, require too much time to chew, so keep that in mind when deciding on the appropriate treat. A tiny morsel of wet food is usually best, but use what works best for your cat. If your cat isn’t on a special diet, you can use a small amount of baby food, but don’t buy baby food that contains onion powder or garlic powder because both of those ingredients can pose potential health risks to cats.

The training session starts with you showing the cat the connection between the clicker and the reward. He has to learn that the click means an immediate food reward. Start by having a small container of food or some broken-up pieces of treats handy. Offer him a tiny amount of food and click at the same time. The amount of food offered should be no larger than a pea. If you’re using broken treats, you can hand-feed or toss it on the ground. If you’re feeding wet food, put a tiny drop on the edge of a spoon. I like to use a baby food spoon that has a soft tip instead of an ordinary metal spoon so the cat doesn’t get an unpleasant surprise if he tries to bite it. Click each time you offer the food but click only once for each offering. You’re doing what’s referred to as “charging the clicker.” This session teaches the cat that the click means an instant food reward. Right now he doesn’t know why he’s getting these little rewards, but that education will come later. If the sound of the clicker bothers your cat initially, put it in your pocket or wrap it in a small towel when you click until he gets used to it.

It may be tempting to click repeatedly, but the message you’re preparing him for is the single sound of the click and its association with the immediate food. During these sessions, don’t talk to your cat or distract him. These initial training sessions are all about the cat, the clicker, and the food.

Once you have done some of these sessions and your cat has been exposed to the click/reward combination, you can begin your first trick. Don’t be turned off by the word trick; it’s merely a basic movement your cat will do so he can learn the connection between a specific behavior, the click, and the reward. It’s basically a three-step process:

Get the specific behavior.
Mark the behavior with the clicker.
Reward the cat for the behavior.

You’re not going to start out attempting to have your cat jump through a hoop or stand up on his hind legs. You’ll start with a random behavior that your cat does naturally. Keep the clicker and the food handy and choose a behavior that you’re going to mark and then reward. Sitting, for example, is something your cat will do several times a day, so you can mark the exact moment he sits with the clicker and then offer a reward. At first he won’t know what he did that earned him the reward, but after a few times he’ll start to put it together. Don’t push his bottom down or coax him to sit—just let it be a random movement, and when he does it, reward him. To accelerate the process you can also hold the spoon of food or the treat right over his head and move it slightly toward his back. He’ll probably look up, and as he does his rear will usually go into a sit position.

The first behavior doesn’t have to be a sit. You can choose lying on his side, stretching, pawing a particular object, and so on. Whatever movement your cat does that you can successfully and consistently mark will be fine. This phase of the training teaches him that he must now perform a specific act in order to get the payoff. It’s something he does anyway, so it’s easy for both of you. So far, so good.

Since right now you’re rewarding seemingly random behaviors, click and reward your cat as he does various movements that are positive. Don’t go overboard and click for everything, but choose a couple that he does more than once in a day and use those for training.

CATWISE CLUE

Use a fanny pack or buy a trainer’s treat bag to keep around your waist. This will make it easy to move around your house and be ready to click/reward as your cat performs the desired behavior.

Once you feel your cat has made the connection between the particular behavior and the click/reward, you can give that behavior a name or “cue.” So if you’ve been rewarding the cat for sitting, now you will either say “Sit” or use a hand motion or both. Give the cue consistently now so your cat gets familiar with the particular word cue relating to the behavior he performs.

The next phase involves clicking and rewarding only when you have given the cue for that behavior. At first your cat may not understand why he isn’t getting a payoff, but you need to establish that this is now a trick that will be on your timing, not his. Say “Sit.” Wait for the behavior, and the second he does it, click and reward. Timing is important, so don’t be late with your click and, for goodness sake, don’t be late with the payoff. There’s an important reason for giving cues, and it is so the cat doesn’t just “throw” behaviors or tricks at you, expecting to be rewarded. Once your cat has learned the cue, don’t fall into the trap of repeating cues if he isn’t exhibiting the behavior. Once you’re sure the cat fully understands the cue, it shouldn’t take eight repetitions of the verbal command before he decides to respond.

Keep training sessions short so they remain positive and so you don’t tire out your cat. A session shouldn’t last more than a few minutes. If your cat isn’t responding to the session, he may not be hungry enough, or maybe he’s tired. Keep everything positive and try again later. Don’t get frustrated if he doesn’t perform the behavior. Every cat learns at his own pace.

Use clicker training to teach your cat to come when called. You’ve probably already done this by offering him food or treats, but now add the clicker to continue the training process. You can do this as a regular training session, and you can also do it when you prepare his dinner. Most cats’ ears are keenly aware of when the food hits the bowl. As you’re setting the bowl down, call out your cat’s name, and when he comes, click and reward.

There’s an additional method you can use with clicker training, and it includes incorporating a target stick. This is merely a wand used for pointing. Some target sticks have a little ball attached to the end to catch the cat’s attention. Train the cat to the concept of the target stick by holding it out in front of him. When he approaches it to sniff it (as curious cats will always do), click and reward. Move the stick away and try again. Move the stick at varying distances and click and reward every time his nose touches it. The stick can then be used to help you point to what you want done. For example, if you want the cat to walk to a certain spot, or reach up, or turn around, the stick can help you train him. You can use the target stick to lure your cat to go through a hoop, over or under an object, and so forth. After all, if you’re going to use clicker training to help solve behavior problems, why not also impress your friends with a few tricks!

Once your cat has gotten the hang of clicker training, you can use it to identify desirable behaviors and assist you in correcting behavior problems. If you have companion cats who aren’t getting along, clicker training may help them focus on the payoff when they display a positive behavior rather than a negative one. Clicker training may help if you’ve been trying to train your cat to accept being picked up, or groomed, or even petted. The key is to keep the training short, rewarding, and consistent. You’ll find multiple opportunities to incorporate clicker training into your behavior modification plan because it tells the cat exactly what behavior you want at the second the cat displays it. It’s a powerful way to pinpoint your desires in a language the cat understands completely.

After you’ve established the basics of clicker training with your cat, back off on some of the food rewards. Keep up with the clicker part of the training, but every once in a while you can substitute praise or petting for food. Intermittent food rewards actually help maintain the training because the cat will perform the behavior knowing there’s a possibility that it will bring him the reward. A common mistake in clicker training is failing to graduate to intermittent rewards. That mistake will end up backfiring on you because the cat may perform wanted behaviors only when he’s certain food is present. Intermittent rewarding is what will keep the cat motivated to continue the particular behavior. It’s similar to playing poker. The possibility of a reward keeps the player coming back.

I keep my clicker on a little coiled spring cord attached to my belt loop so that it’s always handy if I need to mark a behavior. You don’t want to be digging in your pockets to locate the clicker because you’ll be too late and the behavior you wanted to mark will have passed.

Again, when you’re marking a behavior, click only once. Your timing must be accurate. Don’t get excited at a particular behavior and click, click, click, click. The cat will have moved by then and he won’t know exactly what you’re marking.

Don’t talk a lot during the clicker training sessions. Say the cat’s name and give the verbal cue. Praise him when he performs the behavior. Don’t try to coax him by chattering away or using baby talk. It’s the connection between marking the behavior with the clicker and the payoff of food that the cat will be focusing on.

If you’d like to learn more about clicker training or the science behind operant conditioning, there are a number of books available. I’ve just scratched the surface here of what you can do with clicker training, but if you and your cat really enjoy it, there are many more advanced behaviors you can do.

CATWISE REMINDER

Keep sessions brief.
Train in a quiet place that’s free of distractions.
Train when your cat is hungry but not starving.
Keep the sessions positive and fun.
Be consistent in the cues you give.
If you’re clicker training more than one cat, don’t expect them to learn at the same pace.
Never punish, yell, or show frustration if your cat isn’t picking up on the behavior you want.
Choose behaviors and tricks that are appropriate for your particular cat.
After your cat understands the behaviors and clicker training, switch to intermittent rewards.
Timing is crucial in clicker training, so mark a behavior at the exact second it is displayed.
Click only once to mark a behavior.

CLICKER TRAINING IN A MULTICAT HOME

It’s not as tricky as you might think. Start with the cat whose behavior you want to change and do your sessions in a separate room. Once he starts responding, you can do your clicker training with the other cats around. Cats are very smart and they learn through observation. You may find that another cat has picked up on the cue without your having to train him.

If you have several cats with behavior problems, start clicker training the cat you think will be the most responsive and let him then guide the other cats.

Once your cats all know their names and come when called, you can include individual names when you give a cue.

BEYOND BASIC TRAINING

Throw caution to the wind and try to train your cat to perform a couple of fun tricks. It’s not a waste of time because it continues to solidify clicker training in your cat’s mind and also does a few other very valuable things. The more your cat uses his brain and has a fun job to do, the more he’s satisfying that natural part of being a feline. Another great side effect of clicker training is that it improves the communication between you and your kitty. My favorite part about clicker training, especially when you get into fun tricks, is that it helps to strengthen the bond between the two of you. If your cat is having behavior problems, you need to find fun ways to spend time together, and clicker training is ideal.

If you’ve worked on the basic behaviors, such as “Sit,” “Roll over,” and so forth, there are other fun sessions you can have. How about a jump through a hoop? Get a large embroidery hoop and hold it on the ground. Use your target stick or a treat on the other side to lure your cat through, and the second he walks through the hoop, click and reward. Gradually, during the following sessions, you can raise the hoop a little at a time until he actually has to jump through it. You’ll also work toward not visibly holding the treat on the other side of the hoop. He’ll eventually know that if he goes through the hoop, he’ll get a payoff. If you get in the habit of always showing him the treat, you risk having him perform the behavior only if he sees it.

If you’re using wet food or baby food, one thing that I’ve done to make life simpler when teaching more complex tricks is to tape my clicker to the end of a baby spoon. If the spoon is very short, you can tape the spoon on one end of a stick and the clicker on the other end where you’ll be holding it. This frees up one hand so you can do hand cues or hold the embroidery hoop more easily.

Teach your cat to go through a tunnel by using the target stick as well. Use a cat tunnel or make one of your own out of a paper bag or box. Cut out the bottom and place it on its side. Just make sure you have reinforced the bag so it doesn’t collapse. Lure the cat through the tunnel with the target stick or a toy. Click the instant he goes through the tunnel and then give him the immediate payoff.

If your cat masters both the tunnel and the hoop, you may be able to combine them. Line them up but place them far enough apart so that your cat can maneuver out of one and into the other easily.

Pay attention to the types of behaviors your cat likes to do naturally or does with ease and develop that into a fun trick. The key word here is fun. Although it’s called clicker training, the whole experience should be fun and rewarding for your cat.

A terrific thing is going to happen when your cat understands the clicker training process. He’ll have learned how to learn and will pick up on your cues faster. You’ll find that his attention span has increased, and that he’ll be eager to display the behaviors that may garner rewards. Every behavior has a consequence, which can be positive or negative and delayed or immediate. With animals, immediate consequences are what work and delayed consequences are ineffective. When you clicker-train, your cat receives an immediate and positive consequence. When a behavior results in a positive consequence, the cat will more likely want to repeat it. By following this technique, you’re able to retrain your cat in a way that strengthens the cat-human bond and focuses on helping your cat succeed. It’s a simple concept that will have profound results.