7

Mealtime

I Want What I Want When I Want It!

In theory, it seems as if it should be simple: cat owner buys food, cat eats food, cat is happy. However, if you’ve been dealing with a mealtime-related behavior problem, you know this is far from the truth. Whether your cat eats too much, too little, wants a different food every day, wants the same food every day, eats too fast, chases companions away from the bowl, wants to be hand-fed, or insists on eating what you eat, mealtime can turn into an anxiety-provoking event.

If your cat has mealtime issues, regardless of what they are, the first place to start is by taking him to the veterinarian. Mealtime behavior problems may have an underlying medical cause, so an examination, along with appropriate diagnostic tests, needs to be done. Even if you simply aren’t sure whether you’re offering the right kind of food for your cat’s stage of life, your veterinarian will be able to guide you. There are so many food choices out there, and if you’ve strolled down the pet-food aisle recently, you know it can be a bit overwhelming. Based on your cat’s health, age, and activity level, your veterinarian can help you decide which food would be most appropriate and how much to feed.

  CATWISE CLUE

The instructions found on the cat food labels regarding amounts to feed are to be viewed as general guidelines. These instructions don’t take into consideration specifics such as the cat’s physical health and activity level. Use the instructions regarding the amount to feed as a starting point. Your veterinarian can help you determine whether it’s correct for your particular cat.

MAYBE THE BOWL IS THE PROBLEM AND NOT THE FOOD

It’s worth reevaluating what you put your cat’s food and water into if you’re dealing with some food-related behavior issues. For example, some cats paw at the dish and scoop the food out onto the floor. Some cats drink water by dipping their paws in and then licking the water from their fur. In many cases, it’s just a playful habit or something the cat learned by observing another cat use that technique. Cats learn through observation, so if your cat had this habit as a kitten, he may have learned it from his mother or another companion cat in your household.

For some kitties, though, this behavior is based on necessity due to the size and/or shape of the bowl itself. If the bowl is narrow and deep, your cat may be uncomfortable pushing his face into it because his whiskers get forced against his face. In a multipet household, your cat may not feel comfortable putting his face in the bowl because he won’t be able to see if anyone is approaching. For a Peke-faced (flat-faced) cat, such as a Persian or Himalayan, it may be difficult for him to get his face into the bowl without getting his fur filled with food. If the bowl is very narrow and deep, he may not even be able to reach all of his food at the bottom. The solution many of these cats come up with, for both safety and comfort, is to use their paws as scoops.

Then there’s the bucket o’ food that some cat owners use as a way of ensuring the cat never runs out. The large bowl is filled with dry food and there it sits, day after day after day, allowing the food to get stale. I have seen a number of homes in which the bowl containing the dry food is constantly topped off but never emptied and washed. Cats have very sensitive noses that are used to help determine a food’s safety and palatability. This is a survival instinct because in the wild, a cat who comes across already dead prey would depend on scent to determine whether it is safe to eat. In your home, a food bowl that contains old, dried-out food signals to the cat’s nose that it’s not palatable, and maybe not even safe.

Speaking of stale, are you guilty of leaving the bowl of wet food out so long that it turns into rock-hard cement? That’s not the way to encourage a healthy eating pattern.

The bowl may be the right size and shape, but what it’s made of may be the problem. There are so many choices out there—glass, plastic, ceramic, stainless steel. The one you chose may not be what your cat prefers. Glass, which is easy to keep clean, may get chipped, and that could be uncomfortable on your cat’s tongue. It may even cause an injury. If you’re using a glass dish, inspect it regularly to make sure there are no cracks and the edges aren’t chipped. The same applies to ceramic. Some ceramic bowls are rougher than others and that can be uncomfortable, so run your fingers over the bowl to make sure it’s smooth enough.

Plastic, probably the most popular choice for cat food bowls, has lots of negatives associated with it that can make it less desirable for your cat. Plastic tends to retain the smell of food, and even after washing, your cat might be able to detect the scent of the previous meal. Plastic is easily scratched and can harbor bacteria in those little lacerations. Plastic bowls are also extremely light, and your cat may not enjoy having to follow his bowl around the floor as he eats. There’s also an important health concern when it comes to plastic food bowls. Some cats have an allergy to the plastic, which shows up as hair loss on the chin or even feline acne. This acne looks like black specks on the chin and, if untreated, can become infected and painful. If your cat has feline acne, the plastic food bowl may be the culprit.

Stainless steel food bowls are virtually indestructible and easy to keep clean. Some cats, though, don’t like the way the stainless steel may change the taste of some foods. Additionally, if the stainless steel bowl has a rubber ring around the edge to keep it in place on the floor, you must remove that regularly so you can thoroughly wash the bowl. Food, saliva, and all kinds of bacteria can hang out between the rubber and the steel and create a very unpleasant odor. Make sure the bowl and the rubber ring are thoroughly dry before you reassemble.

These concerns apply to water bowls as well. There are even a couple of extra concerns when it comes to water. While the size and shape of the food bowl may be appropriate for your cat, you may have gone overboard on the water bowl. Maybe you’re expecting your cat and dog to share a water bowl so you’re using one that would more appropriately be considered a bathtub for a cat. One thing I commonly see when I do house calls is that while clients may be diligent about washing the food bowls, they just keep refilling the water bowls without cleaning them first.

If your cat dips his paw in the water bowl rather than using his tongue, it may be because of an ever-changing water level. If you’re inconsistent in how often you fill the bowl or how much or how little you fill it, it might be easier for him to just dip his paw in rather than use his face. With some bowls, it’s more difficult to see the water level, and that’s another reason why a cat may use his paw. If you think this is the case with your cat, be consistent in how high you fill the bowl and consider using a bowl with a design on the bottom as that makes it easier to see the water level.

Double bowls may seem like a great idea because they conveniently house food and water together, but they can actually be deterrents when it comes to mealtime. Some cats don’t like their food and water close together. They don’t want their water to smell like the food, and when they want to get a drink in the middle of the day, they don’t want the scent of food right there if they aren’t hungry. With a double bowl, it’s very easy for pieces of food to fall into the water and contaminate it. This can make the water unpleasant for the cat.

Even if you aren’t using a double bowl but have the food and water right next to each other, separate them a bit to see if that makes a difference for your cat.

THE BOTTOMLESS BOWL: PROS AND CONS OF FREE-FEEDING

For many cats, this method works well because they can nibble at will throughout the day or night. This method is also most convenient for owners because they can leave their cats for longer periods without having to worry about getting home in time for dinner. Another benefit of this feeding method is that, in a multicat home, cats who have appetites at different times can satisfy themselves conveniently. If there’s tension in the multicat home, this can also allow one cat to come in and feed when another cat isn’t around.

However, free-feeding works well only if your cat self-regulates his amount and is able to maintain a healthy weight. Unfortunately, based on the fact that there’s an epidemic of obesity in cats, I would say that free-feeding isn’t working well for many of them.

Free-feeding in a multicat household makes it difficult for a cat owner to monitor how much or little each cat is getting. It also prevents you from using food as an effective behavior modification tool. The use of food in a controlled way can become a strong motivator for your cat to change undesirable behavior. With free-feeding, he’s usually not hungry enough to be enticed.

PROS AND CONS OF SCHEDULED FEEDING

When you have a set amount that you feed your cat each day, you’re better able to monitor his weight and make sure he’s eating all that he should. In a multicat environment, it’s also an easier way to make sure each one gets his fair share. If your cat eats wet food, scheduled feeding is the only way to go because it should be left out for a maximum of a half hour. If you try to free-feed wet food, it becomes extremely unappetizing as it dries rock-hard in the dish. Scheduled feeding gives you the added benefit of being able to use food as a behavior modification tool because it isn’t always readily available for the cat.

The downside of scheduled feeding is that it’s more inconvenient for the cat owner. You have to be at home at the right times in order to provide the meals unless you use a timed food dispenser. With some cats, if you’re just a few minutes late, you hear about it as kitty vocalizes his displeasure from the moment you walk through the door.

The problem I see many cat owners make with scheduled feeding, though, is that they feed their cats only once or twice a day. Once a day is never appropriate for a cat. Cats have small stomachs and should not have to wait twenty-four hours between meals. Twice-daily feedings are okay for some cats, but for most kitties more frequent meals of smaller amounts is more natural. If your cat is gobbling his dinner at ninety miles per hour and then having it reappear shortly afterward right next to the bowl, it may be due to the fact that he’s getting too hungry. This may also be due to an underlying medical problem. If your cat vomits shortly after eating, make sure he’s seen by the veterinarian.

FINICKY EATING SYNDROME AND FIXED FOOD PREFERENCE

If your cat loves a certain food one day but rejects it the next, you’ve probably resigned yourself to living with a finicky eater. For some people, the finicky part rears its ugly head when the cat owner dares to serve food from a previously opened can. For others, the rejection occurs when you attempt to serve a canned variety with gravy when the cat is expecting the chunk variety without gravy. Maybe you fed one kind of food for years and then attempted to try a new brand, only to be met with the sight of the back end of your cat as he walked disgustedly out of the kitchen.

Finicky eaters are created, not born, although the process can start at a very young age. Kittens who are fed only one kind or type of food are more likely to have a fixed food preference later in life. The behavior usually appears when the food is abruptly changed. Cats don’t like sudden changes. If you’ve been feeding your cat the same food for quite a while, and have abruptly placed a new brand, flavor, or texture in his bowl, you may have inadvertently set this ball into motion. If your cat has eaten only dry food and now must eat canned food due to a medical problem, the abrupt change can cause rejection.

Cats react first to the aroma of their food. If an unfamiliar scent is suddenly detected in their food bowl, they may not even attempt to take the first bite. If the aroma is appealing, the next hurdle is taste. Along with taste, many cats have texture preferences. There’s a reason why wet food comes in many different textures and dry food comes in various sizes and shapes. It’s because cats can have strong preferences concerning mouth feel. A cat who was used to eating a round kibble may not like the feel of a star shape or a triangular one. Pet food companies spend lots of money researching the appeal of aroma, taste, and texture.

In an effort to please your finicky eater, you may have run yourself ragged trying to find just the right food. Cat owners open several different brands of food at one time in a desperate attempt to hit on the right one. Unfortunately, when you have a cat with finicky eater syndrome, the more you keep changing the food from meal to meal out of desperation, the more confusing it gets for the kitty.

Some experts will contend that cats do very well eating the same food every day for life (age-appropriate food, of course). If you’re feeding a good-quality food, that may indeed be true. The problem is that events may occur that are out of your control. The particular formula of that food may change, or the company may stop making it altogether. If your cat has developed a fixed food preference, making the change can be difficult. The other important consideration is that if your cat develops a particular health problem, he may need to go on a prescription formula food. If he has eaten only one kind of food his whole life, it may be very difficult to convince him that this new food is better for him.

Many experts and veterinarians recommend that cats be fed a variety of foods of different flavors and brands to prevent fixation. If you do this from the start, you may be able to prevent finicky eater syndrome or a fixed food preference altogether. There’s a proper way to do it, though, and that’s gradually. If your cat is eating one brand or flavor of food and you now want to include another kind, add a little of the new food into the old food over the course of five to seven days. Eventually you’ll be increasing the amount of new food and decreasing the old. (Note: This transition is to be done only when trying to switch to the same type of food. Don’t mix canned into dry food or vice versa.) This enables your cat to make a gradual transition, reducing the chances of rejection. It’s also better for his digestive system not to have abrupt changes. The cat’s system needs an adequate amount of time to adjust to the unfamiliar ingredients. If the change is too abrupt, the cat is at risk of having anything from mild upset stomach or gas to mild or severe diarrhea.

CATWISE CAUTION 

Finicky eater syndrome can be dangerous because cats can’t safely go more than two days without eating. If they do, they run the risk of developing a disease called hepatic lipidosis, which results in fatty deposits in the liver. This condition can develop in as little as two days of not eating, so it’s crucial to get immediate veterinary help if your cat has totally stopped eating for any reason.

RETRAINING THE FINICKY EATER

First, make sure there isn’t an underlying medical cause for the behavior.

Usually, the easiest way to retrain finicky eating if you currently free-feed your cat is to switch to scheduled meals in order to increase his appetite at mealtime. Don’t go from free-feeding to once or twice daily meals, though. Do several small meals a day in order to make the transition more gradual and appealing.

If you’re feeding canned food, warm it slightly for a few seconds in the microwave to release the aroma. Stir it before serving it to your cat to make sure there are no pockets of excessive heat in there. If serving refrigerated leftover canned food, never put it down for your cat straight from the refrigerator. Let it come to room temperature, or warm it a bit in the microwave. If serving dry food and your cat rejects it, you can moisten it just a bit and then warm that as well in the microwave. Do not overheat! Stir the food and test the temperature with your little finger before serving. It should be room temperature or slightly warmer, but not hot.

If you’re trying to transition from one type of food to another, such as canned to dry or dry to canned, don’t mix the two together. Cats usually dislike their dry food being contaminated with canned food. Soggy dry food is never appealing. Instead, crush the dry food and place it on top of the canned food. This way, the cat has the familiar aroma of the dry food and most of the taste, but will start to get a taste of the canned food as well.

If your veterinarian says it’s okay and your cat doesn’t have any health concerns, you can also pour a small amount of tuna water on top of canned food. The water from the tuna can be strong enough to entice an appetite, but tuna has a very strong taste and smell and can become addictive to cats, so you have to use this sparingly. Sometimes it helps to smear a drop of baby food on top of the canned food. If you do this, make sure it’s a food that doesn’t contain onion powder or garlic powder, as they can pose a health risk to cats.

If your cat is still rejecting his food, talk to your veterinarian about whether the use of an appetite stimulant is appropriate.

CATWISE CAUTION 

A common cause of finicky eating is an excessive amount of treats being offered. Treats should not amount to more than 10 percent of your cat’s diet. Use treats as behavior modification tools and break them into small pieces so you can offer a piece of one as a reward instead of an entire treat. Remember, it’s a treat and not a meal.

BOWL BULLIES

Sometimes when there’s more than one cat in the household, one may try to take charge of the feeding station. It can be related to status in that a higher-ranking cat may intimidate the lower-ranking one into backing off until he has eaten. If there’s a hostile relationship between cats, the victim kitty may feel too frightened to approach the bowl until the intimidator has left the area. The intimidation can seem subtle to you but very obvious to the targeted cats. The intimidator may guard the entrance to the kitchen by appearing to lounge in the doorway. He may also not bother with any degree of subtlety and choose to growl and challenge any other approaching kitty with direct stares and intimidating forward-facing posture.

If you feed your cats in their own separate bowls, there can still be a problem if the intimidator noses other cats out of their bowls so he can eat their food first before finishing his own. This can also happen when you have a cat who is on a special diet and knows the food in the other bowls is more appetizing.

Even if your cats get along in other areas of the home, problems can show up at the feeding station. The cats may eat in the same room together, but one may be very nervous while in the presence of the more intimidating cat. Mealtime should be safe, quiet, and relaxing for your cat. This isn’t the time when he should have to worry about being ambushed or nosed away from his food bowl.

If you have a bowl bully, there are a number of ways to handle the situation. If you’re currently feeding out of a community bowl, everyone needs to have his own dish. If you feed on a schedule, place the dishes far enough apart so that everyone gets to stay well within his comfort zone. You also will have to play security guard during mealtime to make sure the bully doesn’t start wandering over toward the other cat’s bowl. If the cats stop eating and watch each other, then you haven’t set the bowls far enough apart. Once you’ve achieved sufficient distance between the bowls, make sure you place the bowls in the same location every time so that each cat starts to identify which bowl location belongs to him.

If the cats are not comfortable in the same room, or if you can’t keep the bully away from the other cat’s bowl, feed the cats in separate areas. The bully can’t be everywhere at one time, so setting up multiple feeding stations can help everyone feel more comfortable. The bully won’t see the other cat, so he’ll be able to relax and eat, and the intimidated cat will soon realize that his new feeding station is secure, so he’ll relax as well.

For cats who free-feed, set up multiple feeding stations around the house so the more subordinate cats can choose the safest spots to eat. This also allows them to find food even if an intimidator is lounging at the entrance to one of the feeding stations. If you schedule-feed, it’s a good idea to feed smaller meals more often so that the intimidator doesn’t get very hungry at mealtime.

In multicat homes, use vertical spacing as well when setting up the feeding stations. You may have a cat who feels more secure on an elevated surface when eating, either as a status display or just because he’s frightened and it gives him a better visual field to check for approaching opponents.

CATS ON DIFFERENT DIETS

“Will everyone please just eat your own food!” is the cat owners’ plea heard around the world. How do you handle it when you have multiple cats on multiple foods? The solution I’ve seen many cat owners use if there’s one cat in the family on a special diet is to simply put all the cats on the same food. Depending on the particular food and the ages, activity levels, and health of the other cats, this may not be the wisest choice. For example, a young, healthy cat doesn’t need to be eating a diet meant for your elderly kitty who is in chronic renal failure. A cat who is active and the correct weight shouldn’t be eating the restricted-calorie diet of your overweight, inactive feline. This is a common problem in two-cat households in which one cat is an adult and the other is a kitten. The adult shouldn’t eat the kitten formula because it is too high in fat and protein, and the kitten shouldn’t be eating the adult’s food because he won’t be getting the adequate amounts of fat and protein that he needs at his life stage.

So just how do you manage it when the cats aren’t on the same diet? This is where scheduled feeding works better than free-feeding because you can set out the proper food for each cat and monitor mealtime to make sure everyone eats what she is supposed to. If one cat’s food is simply too irresistible for another cat and feeding in the same room is too much of a temptation, then feed in separate areas.

In some cases, such as when you have a very overweight or elderly cat, you may be able to elevate the other cat’s food. If the cat who needs to be on a special diet is unable to jump or climb, the younger/healthier cat’s food can be placed high enough to make it inaccessible to anyone who shouldn’t be eating it. Just make sure the younger cat has no problem getting to that spot. If you choose this option, make sure the elevated spot is one where you’ll consistently allow this cat so you don’t send mixed retraining messages. If you’ve been retraining your cats to stay off the kitchen counter, don’t place a feeding station there.

TUBBY TABBIES: SAFE MEALTIME RETRAINING

Being overweight is not healthy for a cat at any age, but it can have even more serious implications in an older kitty. Overweight cats are more at risk for heart disease, diabetes, and arthritis. There seems to be an epidemic of feline obesity, as veterinarians are seeing more and more overweight cats in their clinics. I think people have become so used to the image of cats with fat pads on their haunches that when they actually see a cat of the appropriate weight, they think that kitty must be starving. If the image of a football comes to mind when you think of your cat’s body shape, then he’s probably carrying around more weight than he should. He also shouldn’t have a large fat pad dangling from his stomach that could double as a floor mop.

Different breeds have different body types. It’s important to know what your cat’s ideal weight should be for his age, health, activity level, and breed. For example, the Siamese body is very different from the cobby (stocky, short-legged) body of the Persian. The Maine Coon is a big cat, but not a fat cat. There’s a difference between being big and being overweight.

I couldn’t even begin to tell you how many consultations I’ve done in which my clients have been totally shocked by my observation of their cats as overweight. When I question these clients, they don’t even know how much their cats weigh or how much they should weigh. In many cases, the veterinarians have recommended putting the cats on weight-reduction programs, but the clients haven’t followed through.

For many cats, the answer is simply a need for increased activity. Too many indoor cats have absolutely nothing to do but eat and sleep. People have created warm, soft, loving environments with endless access to food but have neglected that very important aspect of cat life: activity. Cats are hunters who were born to work for food.

To begin a healthy weight-reduction plan, you have to start by getting your cat examined by the veterinarian, including appropriate diagnostic tests to make sure there isn’t any underlying medical problem causing the weight gain or that has developed as a result of the increased pounds. Your veterinarian will be able to tell you what your cat should weigh and how to safely get your cat to that point in terms of how slowly to change his diet. You can’t drastically reduce your cat’s food because it can have disastrous effects. If a cat loses weight too quickly, he’ll be at risk for liver disease as fatty deposits form in the liver. This is very serious, so no matter how motivated you may be to get your cat svelte again, it can’t be done quickly. The other danger of putting your cat on a drastic diet is that it can create additional behavior problems such as eating too fast and vomiting the food right back up, stealing food, constant meowing, begging behavior, and anxiety-related overgrooming.

Your veterinarian will tell you how much weight your cat should lose on a weekly or monthly basis and he or she will give you some starting guidelines on how much food to feed. In some cases you may be instructed to continue feeding the current brand of food, slightly reducing the amount. In other cases you may be instructed to use a reduced-calorie over-the-counter food or a prescription food. If you’re instructed to use a new food, gradually mix it into your cat’s current brand in order to ease through the transition. This should take about five to seven days.

One of the best tricks for helping a cat adjust to a diet is to feed smaller meals more often. Measure the daily amount and then divide it up into several meals. Your cat will think he’s getting more food than he actually is and his stomach won’t get uncomfortably empty for long periods of time. With a weight-reduction plan, scheduled meals are better than free-feeding to prevent your cat from gorging himself early in the day with no other food to eat later on.

  CATWISE CLUE

If you want to monitor your cat’s weight loss accurately, invest in a baby scale that measures ounces.

A common mistake I see is that cat owners will switch the cat to a reduced-calorie food but free-feed it in endless supply. You can’t do a successful weight-loss program if you have no idea how much your cat is eating. You have to have a measured amount each day to control his caloric intake.

If eating has become the only activity in your cat’s life, it’s time for some exercise. Fortunately for your cat, that’ll come in the form of fun playtime rather than having to get on the treadmill or go to the gym. You’re going to use what comes naturally to a cat: hunting. In your cat’s case, that skill may be very rusty or even seemingly forgotten, but trust me, it’s still there. Start a schedule of doing interactive play therapy sessions with your cat at least twice a day (see chapter 3). You’ll have to customize the technique to fit your cat’s physical ability, but any amount of movement will be beneficial. If your cat is extremely obese, then don’t expect him to do backflips and move at incredible speed to chase a toy. Initially, he may only bat at the toy with his paw as he continues to lounge on the sofa. That’s a start, and it’s probably more activity than he has had in years. As your cat gets more comfortable, he’ll be able to move more during the game as instinct kicks in to remind him that he was born to be a mighty hunter.

With an overweight cat, it’s better to do several low-intensity play therapy sessions a day so as not to overtax him. Don’t attempt a half-hour nonstop session, even if your cat seems up for it. If he isn’t used to activity, ease him into the routine gradually. Follow the playtime techniques described in chapter 3 to learn how to stimulate the prey-drive.

Use play therapy as a way to distract your cat away from the kitchen if he tends to sit in front of the empty feeding station. Additionally, set up some activity toys and challenges to keep him busy between play therapy sessions. Look around your environment and see what can be done to improve the feline stimulation factor. Refer to chapter 2 for specifics.

For some clients who have overweight cats, I recommend that they use puzzle feeders such as the Play-N-Treat balls for feeding. The balls can be used in one of two ways. You can either set them out for your cat to enjoy during the day while you’re at work, so he doesn’t have to go all day without a meal, or if your cat really takes to the ball technique, you can use them exclusively for meal feeding. The Play-N-Treat dispenses only one or two pieces of kibble at a time, so it forces your cat to eat slowly, plus your cat has to actually move in order to get the food reward. Working for food is a natural behavior for a cat. But don’t use the balls for exclusive feeding unless you’re sure your cat completely gets the concept of how to roll the ball to get the food reward. Also, if you do use them exclusively for feeding, place them in rooms in which they won’t be able to roll into areas where your cat won’t be able to retrieve them. You can also make homemade puzzle feeders by cutting paw-sized holes in a sturdy cardboard box and placing dry food inside. Cardboard toilet-paper or paper-towel roll inserts make good puzzle feeders as well. Punch holes in the cardboard roll that are larger than the kibble. Seal each end with a circle of paper. Tape the ends smoothly so the cardboard rolls easily. Test out the homemade puzzle feeder by rolling it on the floor to make sure the kibble falls out easily before you give it your cat. You now have a very cheap and fun puzzle feeder.

The timing of playtime and activity is also an important part of successful weight control. In the wild, cats go through physical activity before they can enjoy the food feast of their capture. Do your play therapy sessions before your cat’s meals to mimic that pattern.

CATWISE REMINDER 

Don’t leave dirty food bowls on the floor after your cat has eaten. The smell of the food residue or the sight of the empty bowl can continue to trigger his hunger.

STICK TO THE PLAN

Overfeeding is not love. Getting your cat on a healthy nutritional plan is love. That extra piece of chicken you sneak him or that tablespoon of tuna you always save for him when you make a sandwich aren’t doing him any favors. He may look at you with those big beautiful eyes and guilt may try to overtake you, but don’t weaken and sneak him extra food. If you stick to the plan of providing the right amount of food at the right times while providing an increase in activity and a more stimulating environment, your cat will soon start to enjoy life in a way he never was able to previously.