10

Travel Retraining

On the Road with Your Own Mr. or Miss Grumpypaws

LOOK AT TRAVEL FROM YOUR CAT’S POINT OF VIEW

Throughout this book I’ve talked about engaging your cat in activities and creating more stimulation for her. Thus far that has centered around the security of her familiar home environment. There’s a reason for this—cats are territorial and they take great comfort in the security of their environment. Your cat is perfectly happy staying within the perimeters of her comfort zone. Even outdoor cats establish a familiar home range in which they hunt and socialize. It’s usually only the intact male in search of a female who goes off into unknown areas.

For a territorial animal, an unfamiliar surrounding can be a very scary place. The cat doesn’t know where the safe hiding places are or if she’s at risk of being attacked by someone. The sights, sounds, smells, and textures are all unfamiliar. These concerns are compounded by the fact that the travel destination for most cats is usually stressful in and of itself, whether it’s the veterinarian’s office, the boarding kennel, a move to a new home, being rehomed to a new family, or a stay at a relative’s house while the family goes on vacation. The concept of traveling is never the cat’s idea. Unfortunately, she has to go along for the ride whether she likes it or not. Even if she’s not the one doing the traveling, the concept still involves stress because her family will be gone and she’ll be left home alone or in the care of others whom she isn’t that familiar with or maybe doesn’t even like.

For us, travel usually involves excitement, fun, and adventure, or business advancement. Even though vacations can contain stress (especially during the packing-and-getting-there stage), we generally look forward to the time when we get to travel. Now take out all the excitement, adventure, and fun and replace them with confusion, fear, stress, and the unknown. That’s how your cat views travel.

If you exposed your cat to travel at an early age and used behavior modification techniques to help her adjust to changes and view travel as something positive, then you probably have it much easier when it comes time for vacations, moves, or trips to the veterinarian’s office. However, not many people think to do that when their cat is a kitten. Besides, if you acquired your cat when she was an adult, you may not have had the chance to do it even if you wanted to. Is it too late? Absolutely not. Granted, you’ll have a little work ahead of you to help counteract her previous experiences of life on the road, but you certainly can reduce the anxiety associated with travel.

RETRAIN YOUR CAT TO THE CARRIER

If the thought of having to transport your cat somewhere causes beads of sweat to appear on your forehead, you’re not alone. It doesn’t have to be that way, though. You can retrain your cat to tolerate travel without the stress she currently feels. Notice I said tolerate and not look forward to or joyfully embrace. If your cat has spent years associating travel with trips to the veterinarian or getting anxious or sick in the car, then getting her to tolerate travel will be a huge step. If she had been exposed to various travel experiences, most of them positive and short, when she was just a youngster, then you wouldn’t be in the situation you’re currently in. Regardless of how you and your cat got to this point, it’s not too late to make life easier for her and, as a result, for you. It won’t happen overnight, though, so prepare yourself for a gentle and gradual behavior modification process.

Whether you have never transported your cat in a carrier or you have and she hated it, you’ll need a carrier from this point forward. It’s dangerous to try to travel with a cat who is loose in the car. She can easily cause an accident, and being loose causes most cats’ anxiety levels to rise. Additionally, if your car breaks down on the road, you’ll have no safe way to remove your cat. Carriers are a must.

There are all sorts of carriers out there, but if you’re dealing with a travel-hating kitty, your best bet is a plastic kennel-type carrier. With this type of carrier, the top and bottom can be taken apart. The entrance is a metal or plastic grille door with a secure locking mechanism. The kennel carrier is virtually indestructible, easy to clean if your cat has an accident, and it provides a good level of security for a nervous cat. There are good-quality carriers and cheap ones, so make sure the carrier you choose is well made and sturdy.

For the cat’s feeling of security, this carrier is good because she’s hidden and protected while inside and can back herself away from the entrance. If she’s really nervous, you can put a light towel over the top during travel so she feels totally hidden. The carrier’s hard shell also gives her a feeling of stability amid all the shifting that occurs when you are handling it. Soft-sided carriers, while fine for some cats, don’t provide that same level of stability. Cardboard carriers are not sturdy enough for long-term use and have to be thrown out if the cat has an accident.

The carrier needs to be the right size. The carrier you had for your cat when she was a kitten may be too small now that she’s an overweight adult. If so, it’s time to upgrade, but don’t overdo it. Cats feel more secure if the carrier isn’t so big that they end up being jostled all over the place while in transit. Many times I have seen cat owners purchase carriers that are way too big for their cats. This ends up creating more fear in the cat. It’s also extremely difficult for the cat owner to handle an oversize carrier. If the carrier you have is way too large, then put it away for use if you ever do long-distance car travel (during which your cat will appreciate the extra leg room), and purchase a carrier that’s a better size for general day-to-day use. Plastic kennel carriers come in many sizes, so you should be able to find the one that’s a perfect fit for your cat. She should be able to settle comfortably without feeling squished or cramped. When reclining, she needs enough room to be able to shift her weight from one side to the other. She doesn’t need to be able to stand up completely, but she should be able to fully raise her head.

A very important feature of the plastic kennel carrier is that when you do have your cat on the veterinarian’s examination table, you can detach the top portion and allow her to remain in the bottom section. Being able to remain in that familiar part of the carrier often helps a cat’s stress level remain a little lower. This is also an easier way for the veterinarian to gain access to the unhappy cat rather than trying to reach into the carrier and extract a hissing, growling patient.

The starting from scratch retraining process

Whether you already have the carrier at home or you have to go out and purchase one, give it a good scrubbing to remove any residue of previous trips to the veterinarian or other unfamiliar and potentially unpleasant scents.

Detach the top of the carrier from the bottom so you can remove the door. Then put the carrier back together. The first part of the behavior modification process involves the carrier itself without your cat having to worry about the door being shut on her should she venture in there.

Place the carrier in a room where you and your cat spend much of your time, such as the living room or family room. Set it down somewhere in the room as if you were creating a cozy little sleeping hideaway for your cat. Don’t place it in too remote an area of the room, but don’t stick it front and center either. The first part of this exercise will be to change your cat’s association with the carrier, transforming it from a dreaded traveling prison cell into a benign object in the room. Right now, the very sight of the carrier might send her diving under the bed. Much of that comes from the fact that in most homes, the carrier gets brought out of the closet only when it’s time to go to the veterinarian. If you leave the carrier out all the time, it will lose some of that association.

To make the appearance of the carrier friendlier and less intimidating, line the inside with a towel. Also, give a quick spray of Feliway to each inside corner.

Initially, your cat may do everything she can to avoid walking near the carrier when she’s in the room, but that’s okay. Just let the carrier sit there, minding its own business, until your cat gets used to its presence.

For the next step, you’ll use treats or a portion of her meal. Place a treat near, but not too near, the carrier. How far away the treat needs to be will be determined by how reactive your cat has been to the presence of the carrier. If she has no problem going near the carrier, then you can place it a foot in front of it. If she still eyes the carrier with suspicion, then the treat needs to be several feet away.

If you’re using a portion of her meal, give her a couple of pieces of dry kibble in the area near the carrier or place her food bowl there with a tiny amount of wet food. If she doesn’t eat, then you’ve placed the food too close to the carrier. You need to be far enough away so that the cat is still in her comfort zone, but close enough so that the carrier is still in view.

Do this exercise a couple of times a day until your cat is clearly comfortable with this step. Next, place the treat or the food bowl closer to the carrier. When your cat is comfortable, place a treat right at the entrance to it. Don’t make a big production out of the fact that you’ve placed the treat there, just let your cat discover it. Eventually work up to tossing a treat inside the carrier. You may have to inch your way from the entrance to the middle and then to the back, but you want to get to the point at which your cat freely walks into the carrier to retrieve the treat. If you’re using a portion of her meal, place the food bowl in there. It’s important to move at her pace. If she’s nervous, return to the previous step until she’s ready to venture into the carrier.

When your cat is comfortable going in and out of the carrier, you can put the door back on, but keep it in the open position. Once the door has been on for a while and your cat is comfortable with that, you can toss a treat in and then shut the door (but don’t latch it) when your cat goes in to retrieve it. Open the door again immediately and praise your cat in a calm and low-key way.

  CATWISE CLUE

If you’ve been using a clicker, here’s a good opportunity to expand the training. Create a cue to use when you want the cat to go into the carrier. You can use any word, for example, kennel. As she steps into the carrier, say “Kennel” so that she starts making the association, and then click and reward her.

The next step is to close and latch the door, count to ten, and then open the door again. Don’t do this every time your cat goes in the carrier, though, because you still want her to feel that the carrier can be a quiet little hideaway when she wants to curl up and nap without being trapped.

For the next step, you’re actually going to go somewhere, sort of. When your cat goes into the carrier, close the door, pick up the carrier, and walk across the room and back, then place the carrier back down in its original spot. Open the door and praise your cat. When she exits the carrier, have a piece of a treat ready for her or offer her a play session. Use your clicker to click and reward her for being calm in the carrier.

Gradually take your traveling cat a little farther in the house. Be daring and walk into another room and back. You can talk to your cat as you transport her throughout the house, but keep your tone casual and soothing. Bring her back to the original spot when the training session is finished. End every session on a positive note by offering either a piece of a treat, a portion of her meal, praise, petting, or a play session.

Now you’re ready for a really big step. It’s time to go into the car. Take your cat for a quick ride around the block and back home. End the session with something positive and rewarding. If your cat has previously associated the car ride only with a trip to the veterinarian, these little trips that don’t result in being poked, prodded, or stuck with a needle will be quite a pleasant surprise.

If your cat has a history of getting carsick, it’ll be a big help to take little drives around the neighborhood to build up her tolerance. Spray the inside corners of the carrier with Feliway about a half hour before putting your cat inside. When you return home, give your cat a little play session. Don’t try to feed her right away because her stomach may need a little time to settle down first.

Build up to longer trips, such as taking your cat along for the ride when you go to the drive-through at the bank or the dry cleaner. Don’t overdo the trips, but do enough so that your cat starts to learn that being in the carrier in the car isn’t the end of the world. If you gradually build up her tolerance for this, it’ll make it much easier if you ever have to do a long-distance trip with her.

Even after your cat has made peace with the carrier, keep it out for use as an extra sleeping area. There’s also a very practical reason for keeping the carrier out and ready at all times. In the event of an emergency, you don’t want to risk evacuating your home with a terrified cat in your arms. Have the carrier out and ready for action in case you ever have to take your cat to the veterinarian in an emergency or leave your house quickly.

Even though you’ve done all this great behavior modification work to help your cat learn to associate travel with things other than the veterinarian’s office, there will come a time when that destination can’t be avoided. The techniques you can use to make that experience less stressful appear a little later in this chapter.

The emergency technique for getting a carrier-hating cat into the carrier

You might be halfway through the behavior modification process of retraining your cat to the carrier when something comes up and you have to get her in the carrier right away. What’s the best technique? Your previous method may have involved much risk of injury to yourself, lots of stress to both you and your cat, and an amazing display of strength on your cat’s part. Attempting to put a cat in the carrier when that’s the last place she wants to go usually reminds you just how fast and stubborn she is. It often also reminds you that you haven’t trimmed her nails lately. There’s a surefire way of getting your cat in the carrier without trauma when seconds matter.

Stand the kennel carrier on its back end so the entrance is now facing up. If your cat panics at the sight of the carrier, do this in a room away from the cat’s view. Calmly scruff your cat with one hand and then grasp her hind legs with the other hand. Support her hindquarters with the hand holding her hind legs as you transport her to the carrier. Don’t carry the weight of the cat with the hand holding the scruff. If you’re unfamiliar with what it means to scruff your cat, there’s loose skin on the back of her neck and you can gently but firmly grasp that. If you have a cat who’ll bite when you attempt to put her in the carrier, then scruffing is the safest method in an emergency. You have to combine that with holding the hind legs and supporting the bottom of the cat, though, because the last thing you want is to have her flailing around in a desperate attempt to escape.

Carefully lower the cat into the upright carrier with her hindquarters first. As you lower her you can first remove the hand that’s holding her hind legs and then remove the hand that’s scruffing. This has to be done quickly. Once she’s in, close the door. Latch the door immediately and then take your hand away. Place the carrier back in its normal position slowly and gently. If you were quick enough, you managed to get your cat into the carrier with the least amount of emotional trauma and with no injury to the feline or human involved.

LONG-DISTANCE CAR TRAVEL

You’ve gotten your cat used to the carrier, and now it’s time for an unavoidable long-distance car trip. It’s all about being prepared.

Don’t attempt to take your cat on a long-distance car trip until you’ve gradually gotten her used to the experience of being in a car. Do the behavior modification technique described previously, taking her on short trips to get her comfortable with the motion of the car.

When it comes to giving a cat any form of sedation or antianxiety medication for travel, I’d advise against it. If you get your cat used to car travel in a gradual manner, she should make the adjustment just fine without any medication. Cats don’t tend to get physically sick from car rides the way dogs do, but they do tend to get very anxious. That’s why preplanning and behavior modification can make a world of difference. Also, if you have your cat secured in a carrier, she may meow and cry initially but should eventually settle down. Some medication can cause the cat to get disoriented and groggy. If your veterinarian has advised you that your cat would be better off being medicated, then be sure that the first time you give the medication isn’t the day of the trip. Give a dose well in advance in case your cat has an adverse reaction to the medication. You don’t want to be on the road and find yourself in an emergency situation with your cat. My advice, though, is to avoid the medication route and stick to behavior modification.

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Catwise Pretrip Feeding Tip

For long-distance car travel, feed your cat a light meal a couple of hours before the start of the trip. She can have small amounts of water right up until it’s time to leave.

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Even though your cat will be riding in a carrier, she should be wearing a collar with her current identification information. If you’re moving, then her ID tag should have your new location’s contact information on it. If you have a cell phone, that’s the perfect number to have on the ID tag. Put identification on the carrier as well in case an emergency separates you from the cat. That way, somebody can get your contact information without having to reach into the carrier. If your cat is leash-and-harness-trained, put the harness on her for the car ride. This way, in addition to having proper identification in case an unforeseen accident happens, you also will have control if you have to take her out of the carrier to use the litter box, or for any other reason.

If your cat hasn’t been trained to wear a collar or harness or to walk on a leash, the training technique can be found later in this chapter. Even if your cat lives strictly indoors, it’s a good idea to have her comfortable with wearing a collar at the very least. Leash and harness training is valuable even for indoor cats just in case you do have to do long-distance travel.

You can use your cat’s usual kennel-type carrier for the trip, but if you’re going to be on the road for long stretches at a time, you may want to consider getting a larger carrier or even a dog crate. Dog crates can be easily assembled and then collapsed for storage. If you’re going to be putting your cat in the back of your SUV, a dog crate would work well for a long drive. Drape a towel or sheet over the top so she feels as if she’s somewhat hidden. Don’t completely cover her, though, unless she’s truly frightened. She may get some sense of security from being able to peek out and look at her family members in the car.

Line the carrier or crate with towels and have some extras with you in case of accidents. Pack plastic trash bags so you can bag up the soiled towels to be washed later. A pack of unscented baby wipes will also come in handy so you can clean messes on the inside of the carrier as well as on the cat’s fur. Make sure the baby wipes are unscented and don’t contain alcohol. The sensitive-formula ones created for newborns work best.

If you’re using her regular carrier for a long-distance trip, you’ll have to take occasional breaks to allow her to use the litter box. It’s also a good idea to let her stretch her legs and have a few sips of water. This is where having her leash-and-harness-trained will be helpful because you’ll have more control when you take her out of the carrier. Make sure the vehicle’s doors and windows are closed when you let her out to use the litter box or to have a little water.

If you’re using a large carrier or a dog crate, you’ll probably be able to put a cage or travel-sized litter box in there with her. You can get either a plastic one or a disposable cardboard one.

When you’re traveling long-distance, bring along your cat’s brand of litter. Don’t depend on the idea that you’ll be able to find that brand at your destination. The last thing your cat needs is to have to adjust to an unfamiliar type of litter substrate on top of having to adjust to new surroundings.

In addition to the litter, bring along a slotted litter shovel and a container or plastic bag to store it in. You’ll also need a scoop so you can fill the box with fresh litter. Sturdy plastic bags will be needed to store the waste that you scoop out of the box while you’re on the road. You don’t want to just dump urine clumps and cat feces into open trash cans.

Take along an adequate supply of your cat’s food, especially if she’s on prescription-formula food or one that’s difficult to find. Don’t assume you’ll be able to get that exact brand at your destination. Bring along a scoop if using dry food and a spoon if using wet food. You’ll also need her food and water bowls. Extra paper towels and plastic bags will make cleanup easier. If feeding canned food that doesn’t have a peel-off or pop-top lid, you’ll need to pack a can opener as well. You’ll also need to bring along extra water for your cat. A change in water can cause an upset stomach. If your cat is sensitive to change, then she’ll detect the change in the water’s taste, so play it safe and bring an extra supply. If it makes it easier, start a transition process before the trip by adding bottled water to her regular water a little at a time. If you normally give her plain tap water, this transition will allow you to carry some bottled water with you as well as purchase some along the way, provided you stick with the major brands that are widely available. This way you’ll always be able to offer your cat fresh water and the taste will be consistent. If your long-distance drive is for the purpose of making a permanent move to another state, then once you’ve settled into your new location, you can slowly transition her back to tap water if that’s what you want to do.

If your cat has medium or long hair and your trip will take longer than one day, she’ll need a little grooming at some point to prevent mats. Remember to pack her grooming supplies.

If your cat is on medication, plan in advance and refill any prescriptions that are running low. Pack the prescriptions in their original containers in case your cat needs medical attention during the trip. You don’t want to have to rely on your memory concerning what the meds are and how much she takes.

If you’re making a permanent move, plan ahead and get a copy of your cat’s medical records to give to the veterinarian in your new hometown. Include any X-rays or test results your cat may have had. If your cat has been to a veterinary specialist in addition to your regular veterinarian, get a copy of those records as well. If you’re going on a vacation with your cat or for a long-distance visit, it’s still valuable to have a copy of your cat’s medical records with you in case of an emergency. If she’s under ongoing veterinarian care for an illness or injury, this will be extremely important. Even though you may have your current veterinarian’s phone number, emergencies might take place after hours.

Place a picture of your cat with the medical records so that if the unthinkable should happen and your cat gets lost, you’ll have a current photo to show people who may have seen her and so you can make flyers immediately.

Toys! Don’t forget to pack some for your cat so you can continue your schedule of interactive play therapy when you get to your destination. Playtime is a wonderful stress reliever and will come in very handy in helping your cat transition to the new location. It’s also a good way to help unkink those muscles after your cat has been cooped up in the car for a long time.

CATWISE CAUTION 

Never leave your cat alone in a parked car. Even if the outside temperature doesn’t seem too uncomfortable, the temperature inside the car can rise to 120 degrees in a few short minutes. Leaving the windows open at the top won’t be adequate to protect your cat from heatstroke. Another reason not to leave your cat alone in a parked car is that it’s an invitation for someone to steal her.

If you’re going to be stopping at a motel or hotel overnight, or if your vacation destination involves a hotel stay, do your homework beforehand to make sure the hotel you choose accepts pets. More and more hotels are accepting pets, and some even go out of their way to make the pet’s visit special. For more information on finding pet-friendly hotels, refer to the appendix.

When you arrive at the hotel, make sure the clerk at the front desk has made an official note of your cat’s presence so the housekeeping and maintenance staff will be alerted. Some hotels have little magnetic signs to place on your room door near the lock informing the staff that there’s a pet inside. If the hotel doesn’t supply this, make your own little sign for the door.

It’s best to arrange for housekeeping to service your room while you’re there so you can place your cat in her carrier during that time. That’s much safer than having someone enter your room when you aren’t there unless you have your cat secured in a crate or large kennel. You can ask the person at the front desk to schedule housekeeping services at a specific time so you can be sure to be there. Whenever you leave your cat alone in the hotel room, put the DO NOT DISTURB sign on the door.

Check over your hotel room for potential kitty dangers and try to safeguard it as best as you can. Make sure your cat has her collar on with her identification that contains your cell-phone number just in case she escapes out the door. In a hotel with enclosed corridors, it probably won’t be too difficult to track down which guest is the one with the cat, but if you’re staying in a motel or hotel where your room opens directly to the outdoors, this identification will be crucial.

In addition to a few interactive toys, place some fun solo toys around the room. When traveling by car, it’s also good to squeeze a corrugated cardboard scratching pad in there so your cat will have some form of scratching surface available to her.

Since the hotel room will smell totally unfamiliar to your cat, bring along the Feliway and use either the plug-in diffuser or the spray bottle to help your cat adjust to the surroundings more easily.

Be considerate of the housekeeping staff. Don’t dump litter waste in the trash can without securely wrapping it in a plastic bag. Doing so will keep the room fresh-smelling, and prevent housekeeping from having to come in contact with your cat’s waste.

If your cat meows, yowls, or cries while in the hotel room, be aware that it could be disturbing to other guests. Do play sessions with her, use Feliway, and try to set up the room in the most inviting and comfortable way for her. Leave the radio or TV on quietly when you leave the room. If your cat enjoys the cat entertainment DVDs, bring one along on the trip and pop it into the DVD player to keep her occupied just before you leave the room. Catnip may also be a help if your cat isn’t adjusting well to the unfamiliar surroundings. Bring a little bag of good-quality catnip so you can offer some loose dried leaves to her or rub some on a few toys.

My cats absolutely love fleece pads, so I always make sure I’ve packed a couple when we travel. Placing them on the hotel bed or on a couple of chairs in the room usually creates instant comfort and security for my cats. If your cat has a favorite type of material that she enjoys curling up on or a cat bed, bring it along for her. I also leave the carriers open on the floor so my cats can use them as safe hideaways for sleeping. If you’re using a dog crate, place a towel or some clothes over it so your cat will feel protected and hidden.

AIR TRAVEL

This is absolutely not a possibility until you have carrier-trained your cat. Even if you plan on having your cat travel in the cabin with you and not in the cargo section of the aircraft, she’ll have to be confined to a carrier. The airline-approved carriers are even smaller than what you might normally use for her for car travel, so you must go through the process of getting her comfortable with being in a carrier. There are two extremely important reasons for doing the behavior modification. The first is to reduce the stress and anxiety she’ll endure while traveling. The second (and this is a big one that’s often overlooked) is that the cat will have to come out of the carrier during the security check at the airport. There’s no getting around that, so if your cat freaks out or becomes extremely aggressive when in the carrier, the LAST place you’re going to want to deal with that is in a crowded airport. Don’t bypass the behavior modification process or it could result in tragedy. You need to retrain your cat to be comfortable both in the carrier and in a crowded place, and she needs to be leash-trained. This way, when you or the security personnel take your cat out of the carrier (some airports don’t allow you to do it yourself ), you’ll have the extra assurance of having her connected to the leash.

Traveling by air also requires more preplanning in terms of making reservations for your cat and getting appropriate documentation. Some airlines allow small animals to fly as carry-on in the cabin with you, but some will accept pets only as cargo. You definitely want to take your cat onboard with you if at all possible. You’ll need to make a separate reservation for her when you make your own flight reservation. Some airlines charge an additional fee, but it usually isn’t very much. Make your reservations as soon as you know when your trip is going to be because there are only a certain number of pets allowed per aircraft. When you make your reservations, try to book a nonstop flight to reduce the amount of time your cat must remain in the carrier.

If your cat must fly as cargo, keep in mind that airlines have restrictions concerning weather. Your airline may deny boarding for your cat in extremely hot or cold temperatures. This is to ensure the safety of the animals during flight and during the time they will spend outdoors while waiting to be loaded onto the aircraft. Your airline may have restrictions during certain months of the year regardless of what the particular weather is that day.

Some airlines, such as Southwest, don’t allow pet travel at all. If you’re a frequent flier on a particular airline, it doesn’t mean you’ll be able to use that airline if you have to travel with your cat.

Specific documentation is required for feline air travel. Different airlines may have their own additional documentation requirements, but one form that’s standard is the health certificate, which must be issued within ten days of your departure date. This is a certificate that your veterinarian must sign. He or she will have the forms in his or her office when you bring your cat in for the examination.

If you’re planning to travel with your cat in the aircraft cabin, she must be in an airline-approved carrier that meets specific size requirements. It must be able to fit under the seat. You can buy airline-approved carriers in most pet supply stores. They come in hard plastic or soft-sided versions. Choose the type that your cat will be most comfortable in. Even though a soft-sided carrier might seem appealing, it may collapse around her when she’s under the seat. Hard-sided carriers provide more safety in case of a sudden impact. Use your knowledge of your cat’s security and comfort needs to determine which airline-approved carrier is best.

The carrier must have identification on it and it must also say LIVE ANIMAL somewhere on the outside.

If your cat will be flying as cargo, she must also be in an airline-approved carrier, though the carrier won’t have to be as small since it won’t be going under a seat. For cargo flight, you must use a hard carrier. There must be identification on the carrier with your name, address, and phone number, as well as a sign that says LIVE ANIMAL. There must also be clearly visible directional arrows that point to the carrier’s correct side-up position. Food and water bowls must be firmly attached to the inside of the grille door on the carrier.

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Catwise Preflight Feeding Tip

Feed your cat a light meal four to six hours prior to the flight. Allow her to have small amounts of water up until the flight.

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Get to the airport early to allow for the extra time it takes to check your cat through.

If you’re going to be flying internationally, you need to contact your country of destination months in advance to be sure pets are allowed in, and to find out what the quarantine period is and what additional documentation may be required.

HOME ALONE KITTY: RETRAINING THE CAT WHO HATES PET SITTERS

If you have a cat who hates pet sitters and you’re going away only for a night or two, you may be thinking you can bypass the whole problem by leaving your cat home alone. If your cat eats dry food and is free-fed, you might think this is an easy way out of the whole pet-sitting ordeal. Many people leave their cats alone for a couple of nights, right? In theory, you could leave your cat alone for a night or two, but I would advise against it. Wouldn’t it be absolutely tragic if your cat got sick or injured during that time and no one was there to help her? How do you know that your cat isn’t lonely or depressed or anxious when her family suddenly disappears? Cats have the reputation of being low-maintenance because they don’t have to be walked and can have food left out for nibbling, but that totally disregards their emotional needs. With a little behavior modification, you can make your cat more comfortable with having someone come into the house to check on her. This will provide more peace of mind on everyone’s part, so you can have a more relaxing vacation knowing that your cat is safe at home.

Whether you ask your neighbor to check on your cat or hire a professional pet sitter, it can be a nightmare if your cat hates the person or goes into panic mode whenever she hears the key in the lock. It doesn’t have to be that way if you do a little preplanning and make sure the pet sitter and your cat have developed some sort of bond beforehand.

A mistake I often see made is that a cat owner will have someone come over to take care of the cat whom the cat either has never met or has seen only briefly. The pet sitter can be the sweetest person in the whole world, and terribly fond of cats, but if your cat reacts negatively to strangers in the home, imagine how magnified that feeling becomes when the stranger enters the home and YOU aren’t there. How does your cat know that the person entering the house isn’t there to do her harm? To top it off, this stranger is heading right for areas that are solely the cat’s, such as the litter box and the feeding station. This stranger also often tries to track the cat down and make an attempt at interaction. For a cat who has no fear of strangers, the visitor’s behavior will be fine, but for other cats it sends their stress-o-meter into the danger zone.

Even if the pet sitter is a friend or neighbor who has been in your home several times before, it doesn’t mean your cat is comfortable with the arrangement when you aren’t at home. Much of her security may come from being able to disappear when strangers normally visit, but in the case of a pet sitter, she becomes the target.

If you hired a professional pet sitter, you may think you have done all the right things by interviewing the person first and showing her around the home well in advance of your trip. Depending on your cat’s personality, though, that short interview may not have been sufficient enough for the pet sitter to gain your kitty’s trust.

Use your knowledge of your cat’s personality as you make arrangements for someone to pet-sit. Having someone come over once a day to scoop the box and put food in the bowl may not be enough if your cat has a tendency to get depressed or anxious when left alone for too long. The sex of the person may make a difference to your cat. Plan ahead as much as possible to limit the amount of stress your cat will go through during your absence.

When you choose the person to care for your cat, take the time to show him or her just how you manage the litter and the food. Be specific about aspects of your cat’s care that will make a difference to your cat. I once had a client whose cat reacted very badly to the pet sitter because she remained in the kitchen after she placed the food bowl down. The cat was very nervous about having her in the room and refused to eat. Even seemingly minor things may make a big difference in your cat’s level of comfort. For example, I have run across a few pet sitters who place the bowl of wet food down for the cats and then leave the bowl on the floor until the next visit. Your cat may not like the dirty dish sitting there on the floor, especially if she doesn’t eat all of her food and it dries in the dish. If you change your cat’s water daily, then make sure the pet sitter knows to do that and not just top off the dish with a little fresh water.

When you interview the person, conduct an interactive play session with your cat present if she isn’t too frightened. That way you can show the pet sitter the technique you use for playtime. This can be a wonderful icebreaker for the pet sitter to gain your cat’s trust. If your cat is up for it, hand the toy off to the pet sitter so he or she can do a little play session right then and there. Show the pet sitter where you store the interactive toys and be sure to stress that they must be put away after the play session.

If your cat simply fears anyone in the house, instruct the pet sitter not to try to track her down and entice her out of her hiding place. He or she needs to check on your cat to make sure she’s safe, but trust won’t be earned during their short daily or twice-daily visits, so the best thing is just to allow the cat to stay within her comfort zone. This is where preparing in advance by doing behavior modification to help your cat get more familiar and comfortable with the person who will be pet sitting can make a big difference. Even if your cat doesn’t run to the door to greet the pet sitter, at least she’ll feel safe in her own environment if she has had some past experience with the person that has been positive or even just neutral.

Even though most cats generally prefer being able to remain in their own homes when the cat owners travel as opposed to being placed in a boarding facility, it can still be a stressful experience for the cat to have someone enter her territory. The cat is already confused by the sudden absence of her family, so it’s important for her daily routine to stay as normal as possible. If your cat is fed on a schedule and eats twice a day, then the pet sitter should make two visits daily. If that’s not possible, you may want to purchase a timed feeding bowl. These are easy to find in most pet supply stores and online and will enable you to maintain your cat’s normal feeding routine.

How the pet sitter smells may be a contributing factor in whether or not your cat is uncomfortable. A professional pet sitter who visits several other houses before coming to yours may have the scent of other animals on his or her clothes. That won’t bother some cats, but it can be extremely upsetting to others. Your cat may be one of those who feels threatened by the scent of unfamiliar animals inside her territory. If you know your cat has a history of reacting badly to visitors who have cats of their own, and you’ve chosen a professional pet sitter, ask the person to change his or her clothes before coming into your home. In my line of work, I’m prepared for situations in which a client’s cat may be uncomfortable if she detects the scent of other cats on me by always keeping several changes of clothes in my car, and I thoroughly wash my hands between clients. A professional pet sitter should be prepared for special requests. It’s not too much to ask him or her to change clothes before coming to your home if you know your cat is very reactive. Another little trick is to have the person squirt a little Feliway onto the tips of his shoes and/or the hems of his pant legs. A good pet sitter understands that every animal has a different comfort level and will work with you to make the experience as positive as possible.

If you’re asking a friend or neighbor for a favor in caring for your cat and you aren’t financially compensating them, it can be more difficult to request special things, but don’t shortchange your cat. If the pet-sitting experience is negative this time, it will be worse the next time. I’m sure there will be a favor you can return to the friend, so you can feel comfortable asking for special requests regarding your cat’s care.

You may have a cat who doesn’t run in fear when the pet sitter arrives but rather stands her ground and displays aggression. If your cat displays an aggressive posture to visitors in your home at a distance but doesn’t take it any further, it’s absolutely crucial that you instruct the pet sitter on how to behave when in your home. If your cat backs down when a visitor doesn’t look directly at her or doesn’t move toward her, then the pet sitter should just go about his or her business, ignoring the cat and not making any attempt to interact with her. If your cat is aggressive and actually pursues someone in the house, then a pet-sitting arrangement is not a safe one for the person caring for your cat. It also puts your cat in a position of feeling threatened, and without you there to provide security or do behavior modification, she may continue to remain anxious even after the pet sitter has left. In a home with more than one cat, this may lead to redirected aggression. In the case of an overtly aggressive cat, your best option is to have your cat boarded while you’re gone. I almost always prefer that a cat remain in her own familiar surroundings when a cat owner goes away, but it’s not a good idea when there’s risk of injury to the caregiver or any of the other cats in the environment. Besides, in some cases, a cat who is hostile in her own territory may not be aggressive in the boarding environment.

BOARDING WOES

If your cat is used to travel, has been around other cats, and is okay with unfamiliar environments, then a boarding kennel may not bother her much at all. If she isn’t used to being away from home, gets stressed in a cage environment, or is frightened or hostile in the presence of other cats, then boarding can be about as stressful as it gets in the cat world. In general, boarding takes away everything that’s comforting and secure for the cat. She’s without you, she’s without her familiar environment, and she’s now in an environment filled with threatening sounds, smells, and sights. Being in a cage can be extremely stressful because she has no hiding place and no ability to escape. Her litter box, food, and water bowls are within inches of each other. Nothing about this experience seems positive from a cat’s point of view. But despite all the negatives, boarding is a very practical option for many cat owners, and in many cases is the only option.

As with everything else in life, there are good boarding facilities and bad ones. There are also boarding facilities that are more like pet spas than kennels, where your cat has a large condo, lots of room to play, interactive playtime with staff members, and maybe even her own television featuring the latest in cat entertainment DVDs. Because boarding creates anxiety for the cat and her owners, more animal-loving people are creating state-of-the-art boarding kennels. If you are fortunate enough to have one in your town and it’s within your budget, it may make a big difference in helping your cat remain less anxious during your time away from her.

If one of those terrific boarding facilities isn’t a possibility for you and your cat must be boarded in a typical cage environment, there are still things you can do to help reduce some of the anxiety. Always inspect the boarding facility before you commit to leaving your cat there. Find out how well trained the staff is and how the animals are monitored after hours. How clean is the facility? How quiet is it? Are the cats housed in a totally separate area from the dogs? What’s the emergency procedure? If the boarding facility is not part of a veterinary clinic, how are sudden illnesses or injuries handled? When you’re there to inspect the facility, pay attention to how the staff and the animals interact. Do the members of the staff seem to enjoy what they’re doing and relate well to the boarded animals? Surprisingly, I have been in facilities that were strictly business—the staff didn’t seem to have any desire to make the animals feel more at ease.

When you bring your cat to the facility, bring her own food and her own brand of litter. Your cat needs to be on her regular food to avoid any stomach upsets and also to avoid the added stress of a sudden change in diet. Even a change in litter can be traumatic, so regardless of whether or not the kennel supplies litter, bring the brand your cat is used to. Don’t bring your cat’s litter box, though, because an appropriately sized one will be supplied for your cat.

If your cat is on any medication, be sure to bring that along and include specific directions. For example, if a pill is to be given once a day, you want the staff to administer the pill at the same time of day that you normally do.

Pack a couple of shirts or towels that have your scent on them to be included in your cat’s cage. This can provide just a little extra comfort and familiarity in an otherwise stressful environment.

Find out what type of daily exercise or interaction the staff provides for the cats boarded there. If your cat can be taken out of her cage for a daily interactive play session, that would be very beneficial. Many kennels have special play rooms set up where they take the cats one at a time for playtime. Find out what cleaning precautions are taken in these rooms. If the staff can do play sessions, pack a toy such as the Cat Dancer or the Dragonfly because they’re easy to store and won’t take up much room. If you bring your cat’s current toys from home, purchase new ones to replace them because you may not want to bring the toys back home after they’ve picked up scents at the kennel.

If your cat is timid or you think she’ll be frightened in the cage, find out if there’s room to place a semicovered bed in the corner of the cage. At the very least, pack a few paper bags to use as hideaways. Open a paper bag and roll the edges back into a cuff as many times as needed to make the bag small enough to fit in the cage. Making a cuff around the edge of the bag will also make it sturdier and less likely to collapse. Place the bag on its side and put a small towel or shirt in there as a bed. Position the bag at an angle or sideways so the opening isn’t directly facing the cage door. This will provide your cat with a little more security if she feels she’s totally exposed.

For a cat who is completely over the edge with anxiety during the boarding process, a sheet of newspaper can be taped over the front of the cage. This may help if she’s too nervous to venture out from her covered bed or paper bag even to use the litter box or eat a meal. Inquire about what the staff does to create more security for cats who are terrified.

Some boarding facilities keep Feliway spray on hand to use in the cages. If the boarding facility you chose doesn’t do that, bring a bottle with you and spray the inside corners of the cage before placing the cat inside. Leave the bottle with the staff and ask them to spray the corners with one quick spritz once a day and after every time they clean out the cage or if your cat is transferred to another cage. It’s best to spray the cage when the cat isn’t in there to give it time to dry. A good time to do it is when the cat is removed for cage cleaning or playtime.

If there are particular calming techniques that you know work for your cat, or if there are certain things that create adverse reactions, inform the staff. For example, your cat may absolutely adore being scratched under the chin, and that may create instant purring on her part. Then again, your cat may like to be petted only on the back of the head and routinely attempts to bite if you touch her under the chin or on the front of the neck. This is important information for the staff to have. My two cats were feral when I rescued them, and although they’re very well-adjusted, happy cats now, there were some specific petting techniques that had to be used with Bebe for a number of years. She would accept petting and absolutely love it as long as your hand approached from behind her and never over her head. If you attempted to pet the top of her head while she was facing you, she would swipe or try to bite. Although I never boarded her, there were times when she had to be hospitalized, and I had to make sure the clinic staff knew how to handle her. It would be natural for a technician to reach into the cage to pet her, but it would have ended in injury had I not given them proper instructions.

If you have more than one cat, keep in mind that even though they may be the best of friends at home, the stress of the boarding environment could cause hostility between them. If you want them to be boarded together in the same cage, make sure there’s room at the facility to separate the cats should things turn sour. Also, if one of your cats has a tendency to display redirected aggression, especially at the sight of an unfamiliar cat in the yard, then there’s a strong possibility that such aggression could be exhibited toward the companion cat in the same cage in a crowded kennel.

When you bring your cat home from the boarding facility, give her time to settle back into the home. Don’t be hurt if she needs time before accepting hugs and kisses. What may matter most to her at the moment is checking out her environment to make sure it’s the same as when she left it. If she needs to do this, don’t interrupt the process. Let her regain her sense of security about her territory. She’ll then be in a better frame of mind to turn her attention toward you. Don’t offer her a huge welcome-home meal either, because she may still be a bit anxious over the whole experience of being away from home and now returning.

Immediately wash any towels or clothing that had been at the kennel as well as any that lined the carrier. Take the carrier apart, wash it thoroughly, and, after it has dried, give a couple squirts of Feliway in the corners and replace the carrier to its original position (which should be sitting open and ready in some room in your home).

If after being home for a while your cat still seems a little anxious and unsettled, engage her in an interactive play therapy session so she can work off those nerves in a positive way.

HOW TO REDUCE ANXIETY FOR VETERINARIAN VISITS

When it comes to travel destinations, this is definitely not on a cat’s top-ten list. First, kitty starts out with the experience of seeing the dreaded carrier come out of the closet, and she knows that’s never a good sign. After being chased around the house, she’s captured, placed in the carrier, and whisked off for a ride in the car. If the only time the cat ever rides in the car is when she’s headed to the veterinarian, then the pre–vet visit anxiety is already well under way. Finally, you reach the destination and kitty enters a building filled with the scents, sounds, and sights of unfamiliar animals. Perhaps the only seat left in the waiting room is the one next to the very large dog who is extremely curious about the little ball of fur hiding in the carrier. On top of the scents, sounds, and sights of unfamiliar animals, there’s the occasional (or maybe not so occasional) shriek of a cat or yelp of a dog in pain heard from behind the examination-room door, perhaps accompanied by a hiss, growl, yowl, bark, and so forth. If kitty has had prior experience at the veterinarian’s office, then she also knows there’s a good chance she’ll be poked, prodded, or stuck with a needle. Gee, I can’t imagine why she’s not happy about going to the veterinarian’s office!

There are certain aspects of a veterinarian visit that just can’t be changed, but there are some things you can do to reduce some of the stress for your cat. Every little bit helps.

If you don’t regularly take your cat to the veterinarian, or are thinking of changing your current vet, see if there is a cats-only clinic in your area. It may make a big difference to your cat’s comfort level if she doesn’t have to sit in the waiting room with dogs. Cats-only clinics are usually set up in a way to minimize stress for the patients, and the staffs are very familiar with cat-handling techniques. If there isn’t a cats-only clinic in your area, you may be able to find a clinic that separates the dog waiting area from the cat waiting room. When choosing a veterinarian clinic, though, what matters most are the veterinarian and the staff. Don’t choose a clinic just because there’s a separate waiting area for cats if you don’t like the doctor, if the staff seems rude, or if the clinic appears dirty.

To help minimize waiting time, especially if there might be dogs in the waiting room, schedule appointments in the morning or just after the doctor’s lunch hour. Unless it’s urgent, try to avoid Saturday appointments or weekday appointments after five PM. You can call the receptionist and inquire about when the slowest times appear to be and choose that appointment if you have the flexibility in your schedule.

Another stress minimizer is to do the behavior modification described earlier in this chapter regarding your cat’s association with the carrier and the car ride. These are two important steps, especially if your cat tends to be very fractious or panicky when the carrier appears in view.

Spray the carrier with Feliway about a half hour before placing your cat inside. Bring the bottle with you to spray the examination table at the veterinarian’s office as well. Some clinics already engage in this practice, or at least keep the spray handy to spritz cages for hospitalized patients. If your cat reacts well to catnip, you can also bring a bit along to sprinkle on the examination table.

If your cat has a history of going ballistic in the waiting room, stay outside in the car with her until your appointment. If you have a mobile phone, call the clinic and tell the receptionist you’re in the car in the parking lot and to please call when your cat is ready to be seen by the veterinarian. If you don’t have a cell phone, run into the clinic and ask the receptionist to come to the door to alert you when it’s your turn. If your cat is able to stay in the car with you and totally bypass the waiting-room trauma, that may help keep her anxiety at a more manageable level during the exam itself.

Many cats have what I call a window of opportunity. Some may be extremely anxious at first and need time to settle down before a veterinarian can handle them. For other cats, the window is short and quick, so the longer they remain in the exam room, the more worked up they get. If you know your cat’s window of opportunity, inform your veterinarian. If her window is short and quick up front, your veterinarian should do all the examining and handling first and then engage in the discussions later. I once had a veterinarian who was a dear friend and always wanted to take the time when he first walked into the room to catch up on how my family was doing. My cat’s window of opportunity was short and quick, and I had to let him know that so we could conduct our personal conversations after she was calmly back in her carrier.

In some multicat homes, when only one cat is going to the veterinarian, there may be some territorial aggression displayed when that kitty returns. Scent is a very strong recognition signal for cats, and when a cat returns from the veterinarian clinic, she doesn’t smell like herself. To make matters worse, she smells like a place the cats view as threatening. For behavior modification techniques to help prevent hostility after a trip to the veterinarian, refer to chapter 8 in the section about territorial aggression.

LEASH TRAINING AN ADULT CAT

Even if you have never let your cat outdoors and don’t plan to in the future, it’s a good idea to leash-train her. At the very least, you’ll be able to get her comfortable with wearing a harness, which will come in handy if you ever travel with her, as previously described in the sections on car travel and air travel.

Leash training is much easier done when the cat is young. If you’re dealing with an older adult, you can’t go too slowly! Plan on taking your time with all the individual phases of leash training. Don’t stress out your cat or turn this into a battle of wills.

Just because you leash-train your cat doesn’t mean you have to take her outside for a walk. Not every cat has the right temperament for being outdoors even under the most controlled circumstances. Timid cats aren’t good candidates for outdoor leash walking. Cats who become aggressive in unfamiliar surroundings are also not good candidates. The type of outdoor environment around your home may also not be conducive to leash walking a cat. The training exercise is still worthwhile, though. You never know when a situation will arise in which having your cat comfortable in a harness could keep her safe if travel is necessary.

It’s important to remember that leash walking a cat will in no way resemble walking a dog. If you ever do get to the point at which you take her outdoors for a walk on the leash, she’ll probably want to stop and investigate every flower, leaf, or blade of grass. She’s a hunter who is very tuned in to her environment, so her senses will be in overdrive. If you think that leash training her will enable the two of you to go trotting down the sidewalk the way your neighbor walks her poodle, you should readjust your expectations.

Before you begin training, you need the right equipment. Although your cat may wear a collar, it won’t be acceptable for leash training. She needs a harness. There are two types of cat harnesses. One is a figure-eight design that loops around the neck and then around the body, just behind the armpits. The other type of harness is an H design, which fits like a sideways letter H on the body. An excellent alternative to a harness is a cat-walking jacket. This is a nylon jacket that fits around the cat’s torso. I prefer using the walking jacket and find that cats accept it more quickly and seem to be more comfortable in it. Also, if you’ve adjusted it correctly, it’s virtually impossible for the cat to slip out of it. I’ve seen cats slip out of harnesses, but I have yet to see one escape from a correctly adjusted walking jacket. Refer to the appendix for information on the walking jacket. The good thing is that you have options, so if your cat doesn’t do well with one, you can try the other. Harnesses and walking jackets come in several sizes, so it’s important to get the right fit.

When shopping for a leash, a very lightweight nylon one will do the trick. You don’t need a chain or a leather leash. Thin, light nylon leashes are most appropriate for cats. Don’t use a retractable leash either. If you do take your cat outdoors, you won’t have her walking far in front of you. Because danger can lurk around any corner or your cat may suddenly get spooked, you’ll want to walk right at her side so you can scoop her up instantly should the need arise.

The technique you’ll use to help your cat become comfortable with the harness or walking jacket will require patience on your part. This has to be done in short, calm, positive steps. You’ll also have to set aside at least two weeks of indoor behavior modification before you attempt to take her outside. Keep in mind that even if she does well in the house, it doesn’t mean she’s a good candidate for leash walking outdoors. As you go through this process, always keep your cat’s temperament, comfort level, and health in mind.

The first step is just to place the harness or jacket on the floor so your cat can get used to the sight of it. If you have Feliway, you can give the harness or jacket one quick spritz. Another option is to put a clean sock on your hand and gently rub your cat around the mouth to pick up some of her facial pheromones, then give the harness or jacket a good rubdown with the sock.

After the harness or jacket has been around for a couple of days, put it on your cat loosely and then immediately distract her with a delicious meal. Don’t make it so loose that it dangles down and bothers her as she walks, but don’t attempt to tighten it the first few times you put it on her. Based on your cat’s temperament, you may not even be able to fasten it at all the first couple of times you put it on her.

Keep the session short. As soon as the meal is over, take the harness or jacket off. What you’re trying to accomplish is to build up her tolerance for wearing the harness or jacket gradually. The best way to do this is by distracting her with something positive. Do this a few times a day for several days and then you can gradually start to increase the amount of time she wears it.

Use the clicker when you put the harness or jacket on and then offer a reward. Every time you put the harness or jacket on her and she’s calm, click and reward. If you aren’t offering a portion of her meal during the harness/jacket training process, then make sure you have pieces of treats in your pocket and have your clicker handy.

Increase the amount of time your cat wears the harness or jacket each day. Don’t attempt to attach the leash yet. Take as much time as your cat needs to get comfortable with this first stage.

  CATWISE CLUE

It may be easier to put the harness or jacket on your cat if she’s on an elevated surface. This will also make it easier for you to see the fasteners so you can be sure you have fitted it correctly.

When she can wear the harness or jacket without any problems, you can attach the leash for short periods. When she’s attached to the leash, let it trail along behind her—don’t try to hold on to it yet. It will only create panic if you try to tug on the leash in any way at this point. Use the click-and-reward system when you attach the leash. You can also offer her a portion of her meal or just have some pieces of treats handy to give her as she accepts being connected to the lightweight leash.

For the next stage, you’re going to hold the leash, stand a little bit in front of her, and give a cue for her to walk up next to you. The verbal cue can be any word; just precede it with her name. So you might say, “Fluffy, walk,” or even, “Fluffy, heel.” When you give the cue, lean down and show her that you have a treat in your hand. At this stage of leash training, I will tape the clicker to a spoon and have a little drop of wet food on the spoon’s tip. This way I have the leash in one hand and the clicker/spoon combo in the other, so I don’t have to fumble and end up marking the behavior too late. Show the cat the food on the spoon or the treat. As she walks toward it, click and reward. When you do this, don’t tug on the leash. Let her be in control of the movement. After a few sessions of this stage of the training, you can start to give a very mild tug on the leash. The reason for this is so she gets used to the fact that there is, in fact, a tether attached to her. If she’s going to have any sort of negative reaction to that realization, you want it to occur in the safety of your home and not outdoors. The normal position you’ll take when walking your cat is to stand beside her or right behind her. This will reduce the chance that she could pull out of the harness or jacket if it wasn’t fitted right or if she becomes frantic. It’s important to stand beside or behind her to prevent an escape attempt because cats pull out of harnesses backward.

Continue your indoor training sessions until you’re absolutely sure your cat is comfortable being on a leash and doesn’t have any negative reactions if the leash is gently tugged.

If you’re planning on taking your cat outdoors on the leash, she needs to be up-to-date on her vaccinations. Keep in mind that she’ll also be at risk for parasite infestation, so she’ll need flea and tick protection. Identification will also be very important. Even though she’ll be on a leash, a mistake could happen and she could get out of your grasp.

When you go outdoors, bring along your clicker and your treats. If you have been using a trainer’s treat bag or a fanny pack, load it up with all the tools you may need, such as a small container of wet food (I use little plastic containers similar to the type that holds film rolls), a spoon, some treats, and your clicker. Take along a soft-sided carrier with you as well. You can carry it on your shoulder like a duffle bag. This way, it won’t get in the way as you’re walking, but you’ll have it nearby in case something frightens your cat. Trying to get back home with a fractious cat in your arms is dangerous for both you and your cat. With a carrier at the ready, you’ll always be prepared and everyone can stay safe. At the very least, drape a thick towel over your shoulder before you head out with your cat so you’ll have some way of safely scooping her up in an emergency and keeping her confined in your arms as you head back home. If the area in which you’ll be walking your cat isn’t fenced in, or if there’s a reasonable chance that something or someone could cross your path, it’s worth investing in a soft-sided carrier.

Don’t venture far if you take your cat outdoors. Remember, this is all unfamiliar territory to her. She doesn’t need to take a mile-long walk; she’ll be very happy with a stroll around the house or even just around the deck or the backyard. The farther away from your own yard you go, the harder it’ll be to bring her back home safely if something suddenly frightens her. Going farther away also increases the risk that you’ll run into another cat or a dog.

CATWISE REMINDER 

• Keep the experience calm, relaxed, and fun.
• Even though your demeanor will be relaxed, always keep an eye out for potential trouble.
• Double-check the harness or jacket before heading outside to be sure it’s fitted properly.
• You’re not walking a dog, so don’t expect your cat to behave like one.
• Make sure your cat is protected against fleas and ticks.
• All vaccinations should be up-to-date.
• Don’t leave the harness or jacket on your cat once you’ve returned indoors.
• Don’t tie the leash to anything in order to confine your cat.

One thing that can happen after you start taking your cat outdoors for walks is that she may decide that anytime there’s a door open in the house, she’s free to wander through it. Once you’ve given your cat a taste of the outdoors, you have to make sure every family member is aware of the fact that kitty might not wait until it’s leash-walking time to try to go outside. She may have decided to set her own schedule, and that would be very dangerous.

MOVING TO A NEW HOME

This is a stressful experience for humans, so imagine how over-the-top it can be for your cat. She had no idea that this was about to take place. All she knows is that, first, her world started changing drastically, with boxes coming in and things getting packed up and rearranged. Then she was whisked off to a totally unfamiliar environment. Since a cat is a territorial creature and takes comfort in the familiarity of her surroundings, this experience can be incredibly confusing and disorienting. It is confusing and stressful for most cats, no matter how old they are, but it’s especially difficult for an older cat who has lived in the same environment all her life. So as you prepare for your move, you have to take your cat’s needs into consideration and try to make the transition as smooth as possible. Even though you have so much to do and not enough time in which to do it, it will be much easier on everyone to help ease the cat through this now, rather than have to deal with a potentially severe behavior problem after the move.

Start early

The first big anxiety-provoking stage of moving may involve selling your own home. This means strangers will be coming into your home and invading all of your cat’s territory. Keep your cat’s temperament in mind throughout this process. If your cat is very sociable and doesn’t have a problem with unfamiliar people in the home, then you’ll be fine. If, however, your cat is frightened of visitors, make sure your cat’s welfare is addressed as you go through the home-selling process. If you’re doing an open house, your cat may be better off being boarded for the day, or staying at a neighbor’s home. Perhaps a neighbor could set up one room in his or her home as a little sanctuary so your kitty can stay undisturbed during the hours of the open house. If your only option is to have your cat remain in your home during the open house, set her up in a quiet room and have a family member stay in there with her. This way, the family member can make sure potential buyers don’t try to interact with the cat or get too close. Make sure the cat has several hideaway options in the room. If the cat really goes over-the-top with stress or displays aggression toward visitors, set her up in a large crate so she can have her litter box, water, food, and a cozy bed. Cover the crate or cage with a light towel so she can remain hidden. Leave a little space at the bottom for her to be able to see out.

Regardless of whether your cat was boarded, stayed at a neighbor’s home, or remained in your home, take time after the open house to calm her. Use Feliway on corners of objects in the home so the cat will sense some familiarity again. If there was a lot of traffic on the carpet, vacuum before letting your cat back into the area and give the carpet a very light spritz of Feliway in a couple of the main areas. If your cat responds well to catnip, throw a little catnip party for her. Distract her from her anxiety with a little interactive play session if she’s in the mood. Don’t overdo the cuddling; that will only reinforce your cat’s fear. Remain casual and calm as she walks around the house investigating any unfamiliar scents.

If you aren’t doing an open house, but a real estate agent will be showing your home when you aren’t around, make sure it’s made clear that there’s a cat in the house. I have known of instances in which cats were accidentally let outside. You may even want to set your cat up in a sanctuary room in your home, close the door, and put a sign on the door that warns people to be careful when opening the door so they don’t let the cat out. That way, if your cat does manage to run out the door, it will only be out of an internal door and not the front door. You can also put a sign on the front door as a reminder to the real estate agent before he/she enters that there’s a cat inside the house. Place a note on the inside of the front door as well, as a reminder for when the agent and the potential home buyer are leaving. If your cat gets very nervous around strangers, perhaps someone in your family or a neighbor can arrange to be in the home when the real estate agent shows the house.

Once the home is sold, the next anxiety-provoking stage is the packing. This is when your cat starts to wonder whether you’ve lost your mind because things in your home are being moved around and shoved into boxes. During this stage, her human family members aren’t following the normal routine of playtime with her and are maybe even being late with dinner.

Let’s start with the boxes. While a couple of boxes brought into the cat’s home for playtime can be lots of fun and an opportunity for exploration, stacks and stacks of boxes coming into the home can start to be confusing. Take time out from your packing every now and then to engage your cat in a play session, especially if you see she’s getting nervous about the changes taking place. Some cats may view the onslaught of boxes as a giant playground, but others may be frightened. Pay attention to your cat’s body language so you can make adjustments along the way. The more you can maintain her normal schedule, the better. If you have a cat who is responding negatively to all of the unfamiliar boxes in the home, spray a little Feliway on the corners of them to help her find some comforting familiarity.

Your premove preparation time is also when you should be making sure your cat is comfortable with being in a carrier and is up-to-date on her vaccinations. If you don’t have a carrier for your cat, you’ll need one.

If you’re moving out of town or far enough away that you’ll no longer be using your current veterinarian, get a copy of your cat’s medical records for the new veterinarian.

If your cat wears a collar, get an updated ID tag with your new contact information and put it on her the day of the move.

For an indoor/outdoor cat, the premove time can signal enough of a warning that the cat may not return home. As the move approaches, if things have been especially stressful for her, don’t take the chance that she’ll disappear. Start keeping your cat indoors well in advance of moving day. Don’t count on the fact that she always returns home, because it would be a tragedy if you had to leave and kitty was nowhere to be found. I have known of cat owners who have actually let their cats out on moving day and then spent several desperate hours in search of them as the moving van was ready to go. Some of those people found their cats, but, sadly, some didn’t.

Moving day

If your move is in town, you may want to board your cat at the veterinary clinic or a boarding facility while the movers are loading the van. It’s very easy for a cat to slip out the door when someone is carrying out a large piece of furniture. If you think your cat will be terribly frightened by all the commotion, boarding her at the veterinary clinic may be the least stressful option. Another option is to ask a neighbor to allow your cat to stay at his or her home during the loading phase. You can also move everything out of one room first and then put your cat into that room and close the door. That way she can stay safe in there while people are going in and out of the house. If you choose that option, place a big sign on the door as a reminder to everyone that the room is empty of furniture and that there’s a cat in there.

If you can’t empty one room first, then perhaps you can save that room for last. Allow your cat to stay in there while everything else is being loaded. Then, when it’s time to empty that room, place your cat in her carrier and put her in a quiet place while the last room is being dismantled and the furniture loaded onto the van.

If you have more than one bathroom in your home, keep your cat in there while the move takes place. Whatever your particular situation, make sure you have set up a safe and least-stressful holding area for your cat, because your mind will be on a million other things.

The new home

If you’re able to be in the home before the actual physical move, use that time to establish where you’ll set up your cat’s sanctuary room, because you don’t want to allow her to have the run of the place right away. It will be overwhelming for her to have to get to know the entire new house at once plus try to remember where her food and litter box are located.

Look around the house and make sure things are secure before you bring your cat in. If you’re moving during warm weather and may be opening windows, are the screens secure and strong?

If you’re moving into a previously lived-in home and there’s carpet currently there, you may have some odor residue from previous pets. Bring along your black light and go over the home to check for areas where a cat may have sprayed. If you can detect any odor from old cat urine, you can bet that isn’t going to sit very well with your cat. Take care of it ahead of time so that there’s one less anxiety-provoking trigger that could cause behavior problems. Depending on how severe the stains and odors are, an enzymatic cleaner may do the job, or you may end up ripping out carpets and padding.

An in-town move may allow you to do some advance work to make some cat-friendly adjustments to the home. You may be able to bring some furniture over in advance, so you can set up a sanctuary room that’ll be ready and waiting for your kitty.

When you do move your cat to the new home, spray Feliway on objects in the sanctuary room and also on any door frames. Make sure the sanctuary room has the cat’s litter box on one side and the food and water bowls on the other side. There should also be hideaways so your kitty has a secure place to nap. You can leave the carrier out and open as an extra hiding place for her as well.

Keep your cat in the sanctuary room until she seems to be comfortable and unafraid. Depending on your individual cat, that could be a few hours to several days. Let your cat set the pace. If she’s hiding, she’s not ready to expand her horizons just yet.

When you do think it’s time to let her see the rest of the home, do it in stages. Don’t force her to try to establish her territory in an overwhelming way by having to get to know the entire house. Before you open the door to the sanctuary room, close off some other rooms. Use Feliway on corners in the house and on any new pieces of furniture purchased. Have your clicker and treats handy as well as an interactive toy. Open the sanctuary room door and allow your cat to come out at her own speed, and let her determine how far she wants to go. You can click and reward if she ventures out. As she comes out into the main part of the home, use an interactive toy to distract her if she starts to get nervous. Keep the sessions short if she seems nervous or unsure. It’s better to do several short sessions a day and let her gradually get to know the new environment.

When she’s out and about more often, keep the sanctuary room set up so she still has a secure place to retreat to if needed. In addition to the litter box in the sanctuary room, set up a litter box (or more than one) in the area(s) you’ve chosen as its permanent location. This way, your cat can get to know the other area while still having the security of the litter box in her sanctuary room.

If you’ve moved to a bigger home, keep in mind that you may need more litter boxes. If you’ve moved from a one-floor environment to a two-story or more home, you’ll need a litter box on each level.

If your cat went outdoors in her previous home, this would be the perfect time to transition her to being exclusively indoors. If you absolutely insist on allowing her outdoors, don’t do it for at least a month. Then, when you do start letting her out, have her on a leash so you can help her get to know her new environment. Keep in mind that there’s nothing outside to remind her that this is her territory. In fact, she may have to face other cats who may not want another cat in the area. She may have to fight her way into the neighborhood. Seriously reconsider whether she should be allowed outdoors anymore.