11
Cat Versus Brush
Groom Your Cat and Live to Talk About It
Perhaps the thought of brushing your cat is totally laughable to you. In your opinion, your rough and tough cat who hunts in the backyard, keeps dogs twice his size out of his territory, and instills fear in the hearts of the veterinary staff at vaccination time can handle his own hygiene duties.
All cats, regardless of breed, age, type of coat, and even type of personality, need some degree of grooming maintenance. Some require much more than others, but you need to be able to get your hands on your cat every now and then without it being a battle that neighbors can hear three houses over.
Even if grooming time is dreaded by both you and your cat, it’s never too late to change your approach and your cat’s perception of the process.
LOOK AT YOUR CURRENT GROOMING TECHNIQUE FROM KITTY’S POINT OF VIEW
If you have a long-haired cat who has to be groomed every day but you haven’t been keeping that schedule, when it comes time to brush him, there are probably more than a few mats to be removed. Mats can form in a very short amount of time, and if you don’t do a light brushing every day, the session is guaranteed to be unpleasant because your cat knows it’ll involve pulling, yanking, tugging, and perhaps even cutting. Much of that could be prevented by brushing a little bit every day.
If grooming is something neither you nor your cat enjoy, then when you do set aside time for the procedure, you may be taking too long. Some people think that once they have their cats restrained, they’ll do everything at once to get it done with. That turns a grooming session into an intolerably long torture session for kitty.
The more a cat hates being brushed, the easier it becomes for a cat owner to restrain too much, get frustrated and angry, be too rough with the tools, or just abandon the process altogether.
If you didn’t get your cat gradually acquainted with having his paws, ears, and other sensitive parts of his body touched when he was younger, then your attempts at grooming have probably been met with dread, fear, or even aggression. The sight of a grooming tool may have long ago became a signal to run for a spot from which it’s practically impossible to be extricated by human hands.
Brushing and grooming sessions shouldn’t be viewed with dread, yet many cats and cat owners engage in this bond-destroying ritual for years on end. Regardless of how long you and your cat have engaged in this test of wills, or even if you long ago gave up on any attempt to groom your cat, it’s not too late to try to improve the situation.
Depending upon how well your cat was socialized, or how much work has to be done to get his coat mat-free, you may not be able to do complete grooming yourself. In some situations, it’s best to leave the grooming to a professional. If your cat’s coat has been neglected, let a professional groomer get it back in good shape, and then you can continue with daily maintenance. If your cat has never been receptive to touch contact with humans due to being feral, semiferal, or not having been socialized, then necessary procedures such as nail trimming and ear cleaning should be done by your veterinarian so they can be accomplished quickly and without injury to anyone. Still, you should continue to work on trust-building behavior modification as described throughout this book. As you work on building trust, you may find that you can start some of the techniques described later in this chapter on brushing or getting the cat comfortable with having his paws handled.
HOW THE GROOMING SESSION SHOULD BE VIEWED BY KITTY AND THE CAT OWNER
This may be a stretch for you to imagine at this point, but the grooming session should be a time of trust and, if not enjoyable, should at least be easily tolerated.
In addition to brushing the coat and removing any mats, it’s a time to check and trim nails. Ears should be checked to see if they need cleaning, and teeth should be brushed or an oral spray used. With some breeds, routine eye cleaning needs to be done as well.
The grooming session also allows you the opportunity to check over your cat’s body. Since you’ll be brushing and touching, you can check for any lumps or bumps, injuries, or tender areas. This is also the time when you can check ears and eyes for any sign of infection or problems. During tooth brushing or spraying the mouth with an oral rinse, you can check for red or inflamed gums, or loose or broken teeth.
Grooming can be a time of relaxation and enjoyment for the cat as he gets a nice massage and lots of petting. If he doesn’t enjoy it all that much, he should at least be able to endure the process knowing it’ll end very quickly. Finally, there should be a reward waiting for him at the end of the session, so that there’s strong motivation to tolerate being brushed, fluffed, trimmed, and cleaned again next time.
THE RETRAINING PROCESS
Starting from scratch is exactly what you’ll need to do. You have to change your cat’s perception of the process through behavior modification.
Where you’re going to groom your cat has to be decided. For the initial retraining and trust building, you can start with your cat on your lap or wherever the two of you feel most comfortable, but soon you’ll have to decide on one spot. You may choose a table or other elevated surface so it’ll be easier on your back. Just make sure it’s an area where your cat is allowed so you don’t send mixed messages by placing him up there for grooming, but chasing him off at other times of the day. If you have a long-haired cat and you need to check all over for mats and work on removing them, then an elevated surface will be much easier. For a short-haired cat who won’t require much maintenance, you may decide that it’s easier to do it with the cat in your lap. If you choose an elevated surface, you may want to put a rubber mat over the area so your cat has a secure surface to grip.
For right now, the sessions will be confined to showing your cat that being placed on the table or on your lap is a positive experience. Have your clicker handy. When he sits on your lap or on the table, click and reward. If you’re not using a clicker, offer a piece of a treat when he’s in the correct spot.
The first session is a trust-building experience that consists of just petting. If your cat is uncomfortable being touched or is sensitive about being touched in certain areas, you have to start by getting him comfortable with your fingers there. As an extension of petting or affection, gently touch his ears or the tops of his paws. If he’s very sensitive about a particular area, do it just once and then move to a spot where he does enjoy being petted. If he’s not comfortable having his paws touched, gently pet a paw one time and then give him a scratch under the chin or pet him behind the head. Calmly move back to the paw area for another light stroke or touch and then back to the chin or head again. Do the same with other sensitive areas, such as the ears.
In subsequent sessions, work up from just petting the paws to holding one lightly in your hand for a couple of seconds. Then go back to petting in the areas he likes. You can also use your clicker here. When you hold the paw, click and reward him. Do the same with other sensitive areas.
With the paws, you’ll gradually start to hold the paw with your thumb on top and a couple of fingers on the paw pad so you can gently press to extend the claw. If your cat accepts that, click and reward. Also include petting of the areas he enjoys so the total experience is viewed positively.
With the ears, work up from just touching them to briefly holding the pinnae (the cone-shaped part). Click when you hold the ear and your cat is calm. Then reward him.
Since brushing the cat’s teeth is an important part of good oral health—or at the very least, using an oral spray recommended by your veterinarian—your cat will have to become comfortable with your fingers there. Start by gently stroking him on the head and every once in a while stroking him along the side of the face. Always pet in the direction of the hair. Gently run your fingers along the sides of his mouth. During subsequent sessions, you’ll work up to slipping your finger inside his lips so you can gently rub his gums. Click and reward each positive step, then return to petting in the areas your cat prefers.
Do these sessions during your normal times of cuddling and affection. When you’re sitting on the sofa with your cat on your lap, incorporate some retraining exercises. It’s the perfect time because your cat is relaxed and calm. Your demeanor must be calm and gentle as you do this. Think of it as an extension of petting so your body language will reflect that and not tense up. Talk to your cat in a very calm and comforting manner as well.
If your cat has a history of disliking the actual brushing process, use a grooming glove as part of your petting sessions. These gloves are a good way to retrain a cat to accept the feel of something other than your smooth hand on his fur.
If you have a long-haired cat who will need brushing in sensitive areas such as the armpits or tummy, you need to work on developing his tolerance for that if he has previously not allowed access to those spots. With your grooming glove on one hand, lift one paw up slightly with the other hand and then gently and quickly stroke his armpit with the grooming glove. Click and reward. Hold the clicker with the hand that’s lifting up the paw. Use the same method to hold up both front paws with one hand and then gently stroke the tummy with the grooming glove. The tummy is the most sensitive place of all on the cat, but in the case of a long-haired breed, mats can form there as well, so you have to get him comfortable with the process. The technique I use is, with the cat facing away from me on a table, I lift up the front paws and lean toward the cat so he can feel he has support on his back. I then use my other hand to groom his tummy. For right now, though, just do a couple of strokes with the grooming glove and then let him sit back down. With a short-haired cat, it isn’t as crucial to brush the stomach, but it’s essential with a long-haired one. Remember to click and reward.
TIME FOR TOOLS
Once your cat is comfortable with having the different areas of his body touched, you’ll start to incorporate the use of grooming tools. When you’re dealing with a cat who hates being groomed, this must be done gradually and gently with one tool at a time. Don’t attempt to trim nails, brush the cat, and clean his ears all in one session.
BRUSHING AND COMBING
If your cat hates being brushed but has accepted the grooming glove, you may want to begin with a soft-bristle brush. Start by petting him with your hand and then alternate one or two strokes with the brush. Go back to petting with your hand. Every once in a while use the brush until you can start to use it for more strokes. When you stroke your cat with the brush, use the clicker and then reward him. Keep in mind you won’t be offering treats this way for the rest of his life, but for the retraining process you have to replace his negative associations with the idea that grooming benefits him.
Gradually build up to doing a few consecutive strokes with the brush before you click and reward. When you start brushing, do it in his preferred petting areas such as behind the head, under the chin, or along the back. Then, when you begin to incorporate one or two strokes in a sensitive area, go back to the desired areas immediately before your cat can focus too much on what he just allowed you to do. Increasing the number of strokes will be done over the course of several sessions. End each session on a positive note. If you can do only a few strokes before you sense his patience is wearing thin, stop and continue at some other time.
Once your cat is comfortable with the soft-bristle brush, you can start using a tool that’s more appropriate for his particular coat. A very soft wire slicker brush usually works well for short-haired cats. Although this brush is very effective at removing dead hair, it can pinch if you use too much pressure. Use only light strokes with the slicker brush. Sometimes the reason a short-haired cat hates being brushed is because the brush is raked over his sensitive skin and down his spine or across his hip bones. Stroke the brush across the skin on your inner forearm to get a feel for how light your touch should be. If your cat has very short hair, skip the slicker brush and stick to the soft-bristle brush.
If your short-haired cat doesn’t like the slicker brush, you can continue to use the soft-bristle brush or switch to a rubber brush. These brushes have rubber teeth that are very gentle on the cat’s skin. If your cat likes the feeling of being massaged with the rubber brush, you can start to use it like a currycomb, moving it in circular motions to loosen all the dead hair in the coat. I’ve found that many cats who dislike the slicker wire brush will easily tolerate the rubber brush. After using it as a currycomb, finish off by brushing the hair in the direction it grows to smooth out the coat. Keep in mind that your cat may enjoy the rubber brush only as long as it goes in the direction of the hair, so if he doesn’t let you use it as a currycomb, don’t push the issue. Also, don’t try using any other type of brush as a currycomb. All other brushes and combs should be used in the direction of the hair.
As you’re working with the brush, whatever type it is, remember to keep the sessions short. It’s always better to end the session before your cat starts to squirm or lose patience. If you end things on a positive note, you increase your chances of having the cat look forward to the process the next time.
As your short-haired cat becomes increasingly tolerant of the brush, you can give his coat a glossy finish to end the session by gently rubbing it with a chamois cloth in the direction of the hair. Cats with very short coats really look spectacular after a little chamois rub.
For a long-haired cat, it’s best to start with a coat that’s in good shape. If your cat has mats, have him professionally groomed. You don’t want to attempt retraining if the first thing you have to do is tug on a mat. For a long-haired cat you’ll need a large-tooth comb, a medium-tooth comb, and a pin brush. All of these products are easily found in your local pet supply store. Start with the large-tooth comb and gently and slowly comb in the areas in which your cat is the least sensitive. Click and reward as you comb. Later, when you’re doing a real grooming session, you’ll start at the base of the tail and work up in sections so you can check for mats, but you need to start where your cat enjoys being combed. Gradually, make a few strokes in other areas, and then go back to the tried-and-true desirable areas. Comb slowly because if you do run across a mat, you don’t want to be tugging and yanking at it.
With a long-haired cat who hates grooming, don’t try to do the whole coat in one session. Give him a break and do several short sessions in order to keep the experience positive.
As your long-haired cat builds up more acceptance of the grooming process, you’ll move to the wide-tooth comb and then the medium-tooth comb. The wide-tooth comb is to check for mats. Once that comb goes through the hair smoothly, you can use the medium-tooth comb, and then finish off with the pin brush. If your cat doesn’t like the pin brush, you can use a soft-bristle brush.
If you do come across a mat, don’t just pull on it. Try to work it through with your fingers. A detangling spray made for cats, or a little cornstarch sprinkled on the mat, may help to ease it out without discomfort. The last resort is to cut it out. A cat’s skin is very thin and sensitive, so it’s very easy to lose track of where the mat ends and the skin begins. If you do have to cut a mat out, slide a comb between the mat and skin so you don’t accidentally go too far. For added safety, use round-tip scissors. There are mat splitters available as well. You may prefer to use them. It may take a little trial and error for you to find the specific tools that work best for you and your cat. Don’t attempt to cut a mat from a cat who is struggling and wiggling. In that case, let the groomer or your veterinarian do it because you can easily inflict injury. In addition to the pain you’ll cause if you accidentally cut the skin, you’ll also be setting your retraining back because the cat will once again have a negative association with the grooming process.
One type of comb that both long-and short-haired cats will need is a fine-tooth one. When it comes to checking for fleas, and removing them as well as their eggs, nothing works more effectively than a fine-tooth comb. It also removes dandruff and dirt to keep your cat’s coat cleaner.
Once you’ve increased your cat’s acceptance of being brushed, stay consistent with your grooming schedule. Long-haired cats need daily grooming and short-haired cats need it about once or twice a week to reduce the amount of dead hairs in their coat. The more loose hairs you remove, the less hairs your cat ingests through self-grooming. That may reduce the amount of hairballs you find on the carpet.
NAIL TRIMMING
I think it’s safe to say that this is one procedure neither the cat nor the cat owner looks forward to. The best way to handle it is to get it over with quickly. If your cat doesn’t like having his paws touched or has a negative association from previous painful experiences, then it’s time to rethink your technique and do some retraining built around TLC.
As previously described, the retraining starts with getting your cat comfortable with having his paws touched. For some cats, this in itself will be a long and gradual process. Don’t bypass it, though, because you can’t trim the nails of a cat who is desperately attempting to get out of your grasp. If the cat is squirming, there’s a great risk of clipping too much of the nail and causing pain, bleeding, and possible infection. There’s also a risk of your getting scratched in the process, so take the time to do the TLC paw-touching technique first. Work up to the point at which you can press on the paw to extend the nail. Have your clicker handy so you can click and reward.
When you get to the point where you feel you can attempt to do some actual trimming, don’t try to do all the nails at once. Be content with doing one or two now and then getting a couple more later. Ending a session on a positive note and before the cat’s patience wears out are crucial to the retraining process.
Use a nail trimmer made for cat nails. Don’t use human fingernail clippers because they aren’t meant for the shape of the cat nail and they create a ragged edge. Don’t use dog-nail trimmers either, because they’re too big. You need the precision of the cat-nail trimmers so you can see exactly where you’re making the cut.
Cats’ nails contain a blood supply and nerves that start about midway down the nail, so you want to trim only the very tip that curves around. If your cat has light-colored nails, you may be able to see where the blood supply is. Just trim the tip and don’t go beyond the curve. Wherever you think is the perfect line to cut, move the trimmer down toward the tip a bit more so you’re cutting a little less than you think you need to. If your cat has previously hated nail trimming with a passion, then clip one nail and immediately click and reward. Do the same again at a later session. Work up to being able to trim two or three nails at a time. Let your cat set the pace.
When you trim the nails, remember to do the dewclaw that’s in the typical thumb position. This nail doesn’t touch the ground, so it never gets worn down.
The nails on the back paws need trimming as well, though they typically won’t be as sharp as the front claws. The back claws have more opportunities to get worn down as the cat walks.
Your cat’s nails must be trimmed on a regular basis (typically about once or twice a month) because if they continue to grow, they can curl back into the paw pad. As you might imagine, this is extremely painful and can lead to infection.
If you’re frightened of trimming your cat’s nails because you think you may clip too much, have your veterinarian show you how to do it. Once you’ve done it a few times, you’ll feel more comfortable about the procedure.
Keep a bleed-stop powder made for pets in your grooming supply kit just in case a mistake happens. In a pinch you can also use cornstarch.
If your cat is declawed, keep in mind that the hind nails still need to be trimmed. Don’t neglect to check them regularly.
EAR CLEANING
When you’re grooming, take a peek inside the ears to make sure there isn’t a lot of wax built up and there are no signs of parasites. If you see what looks like gritty black dirt, there’s a good chance your cat has ear mites. Your veterinarian will have to prescribe a medication for use in the ears to kill the mites.
To clean the ears, take a cotton ball and wipe out the ear without going into the ear canal. Only wipe the inside of the ear flap. Don’t use a cotton swab because you risk damaging the eardrum and could pack the ear wax farther down into the ear canal. There are commercial ear-cleaning pads and other products available. Before using them, make sure they’re specified for use on cats, and, as an extra precaution, ask your veterinarian’s opinion on which product is best for ear cleaning. If you feel your cat’s ears need more specific attention, have your veterinarian check them.
If the ears look inflamed or have a discharge, see your veterinarian because the cat most likely has an ear infection. If your cat holds one or both ears in a T position, shakes his head a lot, or paws repeatedly at his ears, have him checked by the veterinarian because there may be an infection or he may have ear mites.
If you plan on using liquid ear cleaner in your cat’s ears, check with your veterinarian first to make sure the specific product is appropriate for your cat.
TEETH CLEANING
Yes, you should clean your cat’s teeth. That may seem amusing to you, but gingivitis and periodontal disease can cause much pain for your cat, and, if left untreated, the bacteria can get into the bloodstream and travel to the heart. It’s a good idea to brush your cat’s teeth on a daily basis. At the very least, do it three or four times a week. Once you get your cat used to the procedure, it won’t take long at all.
You may be frightened by the thought of putting your fingers anywhere near the teeth of your feline snapping turtle, but it can be perfectly safe with a little training. If you haven’t already starting getting your cat comfortable with having your fingers rub his mouth or his teeth, you’ll have to do that. If needed, use clicker training to help your cat realize that being touched around the mouth will benefit him.
For teeth brushing, you’ll need a toothpaste made especially for cats. Don’t use human toothpaste because it’s far too irritating to the cat’s esophagus and stomach. Remember, he won’t be spitting it out the way humans do. You can find pet toothpaste in your local pet supply store. Cat toothpaste comes flavored in appealing tastes for kitties, such as poultry or malt. You’ll also need a pet toothbrush. They come in different sizes, so choose the smallest one. For a cat, you want a toothbrush that’s very soft and small. There are also finger brushes available that fit over your index finger. They have little flexible plastic bristles for rubbing on the cat’s teeth. You can also use a baby toothbrush. In addition to toothbrushes, there are tooth pads and sponges available for teeth cleaning. These disposable pads fit on the end of a handle and you use them in the same way as you would a toothbrush. You can even wrap a piece of pantyhose or soft gauze around your finger as a toothbrush.
To begin, dip the toothbrush or pad in a little chicken broth or some tuna water (not oil), then gently rub a couple of teeth. This process may help your cat get comfortable with the concept of having you rub his teeth because he’ll be concentrating on the tasty flavor of the broth.
Once your cat is comfortable with that, you’re ready for toothpaste. Put a small amount on your finger and let your cat taste it. Then put a small amount of toothpaste on the brush and gently wipe the outside surfaces of the teeth. For the first few sessions, don’t try to clean all the teeth in one sitting. To help your cat learn to tolerate, or even enjoy, the process, do a couple of teeth and then click and reward him. Later in the day, try another session and do two more teeth. If you repeatedly end the sessions before your cat starts to squirm or get unhappy, you can gradually build up his tolerance for the process. Don’t reward him for wiggling, hissing, or trying to escape. Only reward for positive behavior. It may seem counterproductive to be rewarding him with food when you’re brushing his teeth, but remember that these early sessions are about retraining as much as they are about hygiene.
If brushing your cat’s teeth proves to be completely impossible, ask your veterinarian about using an oral rinse. The rinse is sprayed or squirted into the mouth, and most cats tolerate the procedure quite well. To allow the rinse adequate time to work, don’t feed your cat for at least one half hour afterward.
If you’re diligent about regularly brushing your cat’s teeth, you may be able to reduce the number of professional cleanings he will need from the veterinarian. This will reduce the number of times he’ll have to be sedated, as cat dentals are done under anesthesia.
BATHING
If you have a short-haired cat, there’s an excellent chance he’ll never need a bath in his life. If he goes outdoors and gets dirty or if he has fleas, then he’ll need to be bathed, but for the majority of short-haired cats, baths are unnecessary. The cat’s tongue does an excellent job of keeping the coat clean and removing any debris. The saliva has an odor-neutralizing component in it, so after a tongue bath, the coat smells fresh and clean. If you bathe a cat who doesn’t need it, you risk stripping the coat and skin of oil and causing dryness. It’s also an unnecessary source of anxiety for your cat. If you have a long-haired cat, however, the occasional bath is needed.
If you’ve never bathed your cat and he needs one, or if you’ve done it in the past and it has left horrible memories for both of you, then tweaking your technique is in order.
Start by having the right tools. Purchase a shampoo that’s appropriate for use on cats. Never use shampoo meant for humans, and even dog shampoos can contain ingredients not appropriate or safe for cats, so make sure you use only a cat shampoo. If you have a long-haired cat, you’ll probably want a cream rinse or detangling rinse as well, but choose one meant only for cats.
Keep in mind that even the most mild-mannered cat may not take kindly to being bathed, so dress yourself appropriately. Regardless of how warm you may be, wear sturdy long sleeves to protect your arms from scratches. Yes, your sleeves will get wet, but a little wetness is easier to accept than scratches on the forearm. Wear long pants. If you have a plastic apron, you may want to wear that to reduce just how drenched you become.
You’ll need a hose attachment for the bath or sink faucet, whichever one you plan to use for bathing. Some cats are fearful of the spray, so you may want to disconnect the sprayer part so that the water can come out in a quiet stream. If you don’t have a hose attachment, use a large plastic (not glass) cup or pitcher to rinse your cat. If you use a hose with a sprayer, hold the sprayer close to the cat’s body to reduce the noise.
If your cat is small, you may want to bathe her in the sink so it’ll be easier on your back. Whether you choose the kitchen sink or the bathtub, make sure the room is quiet and warm. I like to bathe cats in the bathtub because I can close the door to keep the room warmer and prevent escape. The last thing you need is a wet cat covered in shampoo racing around your house. Your particular cat may view the bathtub as an ocean, so a sink may be better in your case.
I find that cats tend to feel less anxious if they have something to grip on to, so I place a bathmat on the bottom of the tub. If you are using the sink, place a plastic sink mat in there. Clear the adjoining countertops to prevent your cat from pulling something breakable into the sink.
You’ll need a brush and a hair dryer. Use only a hair dryer that has a low setting, and, if possible, choose one that’s relatively quiet. Have plenty of absorbent towels handy. Have more than you think you’ll need because when you have a wet cat on your hands, it isn’t the time to realize you need to go in search of an extra towel. A soft baby washcloth will be useful for cleaning around the face.
Brush your cat before bathing, especially if he has long hair. You must make sure the cat has no tangles or mats before getting his hair wet. Tangles will turn into tight mats if not addressed before the bath, and they are much harder to remove after being wet.
You may also want to trim your cat’s nails in advance of the bath for your own safety.
Put a cotton ball in each of your cat’s ears to prevent water from getting in there. If your cat is very small, you’ll need to use half of a cotton ball in each ear. Have a few extra cotton balls nearby in case he shakes his head hard enough to send one flying into the water.
Put a tiny dot of plain ophthalmic ointment in each eye to protect them from shampoo irritation. Your veterinarian can provide you with this ointment or instruct you on what to use. A drop of mineral oil in each eye can be used if you’re unable to get ophthalmic ointment.
When you bathe your cat, keep your demeanor very calm and reassuring, but make sure you have a secure grip on him. Place the hose close to the cat’s hair so there’s less sound to frighten him. Make sure you have tested the temperature of the water against your inner forearm. Lukewarm water is generally most comfortable for a cat.
The amount of restraint to use when bathing your cat will depend on your specific kitty. With some cats, less is more, and they feel less anxious if you aren’t using a death grip on them. You may find that your cat panics at first in the bath and then relaxes once he realizes he’s safe. If he’s starting to panic or is too difficult to hold, you may have to scruff him with one hand while washing with the other. For this reason it’s very important to have all your tools and supplies handy, and be sure to open the shampoo bottle before starting the bath. Don’t use too much restraint, but make sure you have control of the cat. Use your voice to reassure him and lean toward him to provide security.
Unless your cat has fleas, start bathing from the back and save the head for last, since he probably won’t enjoy having his face and head get wet. If he has fleas, you should use a flea shampoo and start at the head; otherwise the fleas will run away from the water and into his ears, eyes, and mouth.
Use the soft baby washcloth to clean around his face. Don’t suds up his face because you risk getting soap in his eyes and nose. Cats do an excellent job of keeping their faces clean, so a wipe with a damp washcloth will be sufficient. Don’t pour water over your cat’s face. After washing the face, rinse it by wiping it clean with a wet washcloth. If your long-haired cat has tear stains, use a product specially made for that purpose. Don’t just scrub the area, because you’ll cause irritation.
Rinse, rinse, rinse. Any shampoo or cream rinse residue could cause skin irritation, so make sure you have removed all traces.
When the bath is over, remove the cotton balls from your cat’s ears and wrap him securely in a towel. Use a blotting technique to dry your cat. Don’t rub. Rubbing will create tangles and mats in long-haired cats. Rubbing can also break hairs. The paws usually absorb a tremendous amount of water, so blot them well. Once one towel is wet, remove it and wrap the cat in another dry towel. Keep blotting to absorb as much water as possible, changing towels as often as necessary.
For drying, set the hair dryer on low and use a soft-bristle brush as you dry. Don’t use a comb because that’s painful when the hair is wet. Don’t aim the hair dryer directly in the cat’s face and be sure to keep it far enough away from his skin. Be aware of how the hot air will feel against your cat’s sensitive skin. Keep the dryer moving at all times so you aren’t staying on one spot for too long.
If your cat is extremely difficult to keep still for drying, or if he’s aggressive or terribly frightened, you can confine him to the bathroom until his coat is dry. You don’t want a wet cat running through the house as he’ll attract every speck of dust in your home. Cats with very short hair may not need to be blow-dried; just blot as much water as possible out of his coat. Long-haired cats, however, really do need the hair dryer, if at all possible. If you keep your house thermostat set low, then it’s a good idea to dry your short-haired cat with the hair dryer as well so he doesn’t get cold.
Despite your best efforts at bathing, brushing, and drying your cat, you’ll likely notice him doing a very long self-grooming session afterward. Don’t be insulted. Scent is very important to your cat and he’ll want to neutralize any unfamiliar fragrance (the shampoo) and reestablish his own scent. Keep in mind that this may be a time when he ingests extra hair, so you may need to give him a little hairball-prevention gel afterward.
HAIRBALLS
Hack, hack, cough, cough, hack, hack. It’s a sound most of us who live with cats know quite well. The very thing that makes cats so fastidious and clean also creates the unpleasant side effect of hairballs. The surface of a cat’s tongue contains backward-facing barbs. That’s an efficient way to trap loose and dead hair in order to remove it from the coat, but the downside of this process is that because of the direction of the barbs, the cat is unable to spit the hair out. There’s only one direction for the hair to go and that’s down the throat and into the stomach.
Many cats are able to get rid of the hairballs by vomiting them back up. You may be quite familiar with the sight of your cat coughing up a hairball. Or maybe you’ve been surprised in the middle of the night by the soggy little hairball as you walked barefoot to the bathroom.
Small amounts of hair may be visible in the cat’s stool if it wasn’t vomited back up and managed to pass through the intestinal tract.
For many cats, though, the hairball doesn’t get vomited back up or pass through the intestinal tract—it forms a blockage in the intestine. This is a serious situation and requires a trip to your veterinarian because the blockage may have to be surgically removed. If your cat has stopped eating and/or seems constipated and has not passed any stool in twenty-four hours, he may have a hairball blockage. If your cat doesn’t normally have a bowel movement every day, it can be more difficult to watch for hairball blockages. It’s important to be familiar with what is and isn’t happening in the litter box so you can catch a potential problem in the early stage. There could be other underlying causes as well, so see your veterinarian immediately.
Common Signs of Hairballs*
- hacking and dry coughing
- appearance of a damp, cigar-shaped object on the floor
- lack of appetite in your cat
- appearance of hair in the cat’s stool
- lethargy
- constipation
Signs of Potentially Serious Impaction*
- inability to pass stool
- diarrhea
- lethargy
- no appetite
- swollen abdomen
- crouched posture
- crying when picked up
If you have a cat who overgrooms, hairballs may be an ongoing problem. In a multicat home, your may think the hairballs you find are originating from your long-haired cat, but they could be coming from a short-haired cat who grooms the long-haired one.
To cut down on the number of hairballs your cat develops, get on a schedule of doing regular brushing. The more loose hair you capture in the brush, the less your cat will ingest.
There are commercial hairball prevention products that are very effective in helping the hairballs pass more easily. You can find hairball prevention pastes in your local pet supply store. Many veterinarians also sell these products. The pastes are mineral-oil-based. Mineral oil isn’t absorbed through the digestive tract, so it lubricates the tract and helps the hairball pass through. The hairball prevention pastes are usually flavored to make them more palatable to cats. Since the mineral-oil-based hairball prevention products do not get absorbed into the system, they can interfere with normal digestion, so don’t give them with food or right after your cat has eaten. Mineral oil can also interfere with the absorption of fat-soluble vitamins. The pastes should be administered between meals only. Plain mineral oil has no smell or taste, so it poses a tremendous risk to your cat because he could inhale it as you’re trying to give it to him. Don’t use any home remedy such as butter or other oils either, because they can create a secondary digestive problem and will get absorbed into the digestive tract without providing the necessary lubrication.
Your veterinarian will guide you on how much and how often to administer the hairball paste based on the severity of your cat’s hairball problem. If the problem isn’t bad, you can probably give the paste once or twice a week. Don’t give it more than twice a week unless advised to do so by your veterinarian. Too much can cause digestive and thus nutritional problems.
The way to administer the paste is to put approximately a one-inch ribbon of it on your index finger and feed it to your cat. To ensure the paste gets into your cat’s mouth, open his mouth with the same technique you would use for pilling, and gently scrape the hairball paste off your finger by running it across the ends of your cat’s teeth. Let him close his mouth to swallow. If you hold his mouth closed, do so very loosely so he has enough room. If you clamp his mouth closed, he’ll be unable to swallow the paste. If your cat doesn’t like the taste and tends to spit it out, or if you’re unable to open the cat’s mouth enough, you can rub the paste along the side teeth, right inside the cheek pocket.
Some people have used the technique of wiping the paste on one of the cat’s paws, since cats will almost always groom away whatever gets on their coats. The risk of this is that your cat may shake his paw first and the sticky paste will end up everywhere but in his mouth.
An alternative to using hairball paste is to feed your cat one of the hairball prevention formula foods. In order for the food to work, you must feed it to your cat exclusively. Don’t use it if your cat is on a prescription formula food. If your cat is eating over-the-counter food and you want to try the hairball prevention formula, gradually introduce it by mixing a little new food into your cat’s current brand. Stretch the transition out over about five days.
Increasing the fiber in your cat’s diet may also help him pass the hairballs more easily. Ask your veterinarian about ways to do this for your particular cat. One way that works well for most cats is to use canned pumpkin. If you feed wet food, you can mix a little canned pumpkin into his dish—usually about one quarter to one half of a teaspoon, depending upon the size of your cat. Be sure to consult your veterinarian before making any dietary changes, though. Also, don’t add too much canned pumpkin or any other source of fiber because excessive amounts can have disastrous intestinal consequences. Fiber increases should be done gradually to allow your cat’s system to get used to them; otherwise he could end up with excess gas and diarrhea, which is unpleasant for everybody.
CATWISE CLUE
Shedding is normal, but an excessive amount of shedding isn’t. If you think your cat is shedding too much, consult your veterinarian. Also, if his coat is dry or dull, there may be an underlying medical problem. If your cat gets a clean bill of health, your veterinarian may recommend a change in diet or a fatty-acid supplement to improve the coat’s condition.