First Time Provence & the Côte d’Azur

Checklist

ACheck passport validity and visa requirements

ABook hotels, car-hire and big-name restaurants

AOrganise travel insurance

ACheck airline baggage restrictions and customs regulations

AGet a Chip and PIN credit card (magnetic strips don't work)

AInform your credit-card company you're travelling abroad

What to Pack

APassport and driving license

AAdaptor plug – France uses two-pin EU plugs

ASunglasses, hat and sunscreen

ATowel, swimsuit and sandals for the beach

ASturdy shoes for hiking and walking

ACorkscrew with bottle opener

ASmart clothes for eating out

AFrench phrasebook

AAn adventurous appetite

Top Tips for Your Trip

AIf you're driving, the autoroutes (motorways) are fast, but smaller scenic regional roads (designated D and N on highway maps) always have much better scenery.

AFor Provençal atmosphere, you can't beat shopping at a morning market. Nearly every town and village has one at least once a week. Take your own shopping bag.

AMost shops, businesses and museums close for lunch (usually between noon and 2pm). Do as the locals do and head for the nearest restaurant.

ADon't underestimate the heat. Temperatures of 35˚C are routine in summer. Schedule sightseeing for early morning or late afternoon, and spend the middle of the day somewhere shady.

What to Wear

AOutside Monaco, Cannes and St Tropez, fashion is pretty relaxed. Dress up rather than down for dinner (avoid jeans, shorts or trainers in upmarket establishments).

ASturdy shoes are essential for walking, and a pack-down raincoat comes in handy.

ATopless sunbathing is routine on Côte d'Azur beaches, but it's a no-no anywhere else. Save bare chests and bikinis for the beach.

Sleeping

Advance reservations are essential in July and August. Booking online is easiest.

AChambres d'hôte B&Bs, usually family-run and with an owner on-site. They range from small farmhouses to lavish boutique hideaways; breakfast is nearly always included.

AHotels Anything from swanky Riviera hotels to country auberges (inns). Unless otherwise indicated, assume breakfast is extra.

ACamping French camping grounds tend to be more like holiday parks, usually with pools, playgrounds, activities and so on. Back-to-basics camping is more common in the countryside. Wild camping (including on the beach) is illegal.

Cutting Costs

AEat cheap Lunchtime formules (two courses) and menus (three courses) are cheaper than dinner menus. Self-catering and shopping at the market keep costs down. At restaurants, order une carafe d'eau (a jug of water) rather than bottled water.

AFamily travel Many hotels have triple, quad and family rooms. Buy family tickets and travel passes (usually for two adults and two kids).

AFree sites Though most sights charge admission for visitors over 12, public parks, green spaces, coastline and national parks are free.

AAvoid private beaches Some beaches on the Côte d'Azur are reserved for paying guests, but there's nearly always another one nearby that's free (if crowded).

Bargaining

AWith the exception of haggling at flea markets, bargaining is not the norm in France.

Tipping

ARestaurants If your bill says service compris, a 15% tip has already been added; you only need to tip more for exceptional service.

ATaxis Most people round up to the nearest euro.

ABars For drinks at the bar, don't tip. For drinks brought to your table, tip as for a restaurant.

AHotels A tip of €1 or €2 for the bellhop or valet is all that's required.

Etiquette

AGreetings When entering or leaving a shop, it's polite to say bonjour and au revoir. When greeting friends, it's usual to give a kiss on both cheeks and ask Comment ça va? (How are you?)

AConversation Use vous (you) when speaking to people you don't know well, or who are older than you; use tu (also you) with friends, family and children.

AAsking for help Say excusez-moi (excuse me) to attract attention; say pardon (sorry) to apologise.

AReligious buildings Dress modestly and be respectful when visiting.

AEating and drinking When dining in a French home, wait for your host to start first. Always clear the plate. When you're finished, line up your fork and knife on top of your plate towards the right.

AWaiters Never, ever call waiters garçon – use Monsieur (Mr), Mademoiselle (Miss) or Madame (Mrs), or attract their attention by saying s'il vous plaît (please).

Language

It's a good idea to learn some useful phrases before you go; the French will appreciate the effort. Most people can speak at least a few words of English, but fluency is rare in rural areas.