Explorer’s Guide Minnesota

WHAT’S WHERE IN MINNESOTA

AREA CODE There are seven area codes in Minnesota. In the Twin Cities area, 612 denotes Minneapolis and immediate surroundings; 651 is St. Paul and suburbs, including much of the St. Croix Valley; 763 is the northern Minneapolis suburbs; and 952 is the southern and southwestern Minneapolis suburbs. Northern Minnesota is 218, central Minnesota (outside the Twin Cities metro and suburban area) is 320, and southern Minnesota is 507.

AIRPORTS AND AIRLINES Minneapolis–St. Paul International Airport (612-726-5555; mspairport.com) is the state’s largest airport and is served primarily by Delta Air Lines (1-800-221-1212; delta.com), but there are several other carriers who serve the area as well. Flights depart to and arrive from all over the United States, as well as various international destinations, including Canada, Europe, the Caribbean, Mexico, and Asia. The following airlines serve Terminal 1–Lindbergh: Aer Lingus (1-800-474-7424; aerlingus.com), Air Canada (1-888-247-2262; aircanada.com), Air Choice One (1-866-435-9847; airchoiceone.com), Air France (1-800-237-2747; airfrance.us), Alaska Airlines (1-800-426-0333; airalaska.com), American Airlines (1-800-433-7300; aa.com), Boutique Air (1-855-268-8478; boutiqueair.com), Frontier Airlines (1-801-401-9000; frontierairlines.com), KLM (1-866-434-0320; klm.com), Spirit Airlines (1-801-401-2222; spirit.com),and United Airlines (1-800-241-6522; united.com). At Terminal 2-Humphrey, Condor (1-866-960-7915; airtran.com), Icelandair (1-800-223-5500; icelandair.com), Jet-Blue (1-800-538-2583; jetblue.com), Southwest Airlines (1-800-435-9792; southwest.com), and Sun Country Airlines (1-800-359-6786; suncountry.com) offer a mixture of commercial and charter services.

images — THE VIEW FROM GREAT RIVER BLUFFS STATE PARK

Bemidji Regional Airport (bemidjiairport.org) and Brainerd Lakes Regional Airport (218-825-2166; brainerdairport.com) are served by Delta Air Lines; Duluth International Airport (218-727-2968; duluthairport.com) is served by American Airlines, Delta Airlines, and United Airlines; International Falls International Airport (1-800-221-1212; internationalfallsairport.com) is served by Delta and SkyWest Airlines (434-634-3000; skywest.com); Range Regional Airport (218-262-3451; rangeregionalairport.com) is served by Delta; Rochester International Airport (507-282-2328; flyrst.com) is served by American Airlines, Delta Air Lines, and United Airlines; St. Cloud Regional Airport (320-255-7292; stcloudairport.com) is served by Sun Country Airlines and Allegiant Air (allegiantair.com); and Thief River Falls Regional Airport (218-681-7680) is served by Boutique Air.

AMTRAK There is limited service in Minnesota by rail; AMTRAK (1-800-872-7245; amtrak.com) runs a train from the northwest corner, near North Dakota, through Minneapolis–St. Paul and onto Wisconsin and Chicago, once daily in each direction. The train is used more to transport people either east to Chicago or west to the Pacific Coast than to travel within Minnesota.

AMUSEMENT PARKS Valleyfair (952-445-7600; valleyfair.com) in Shakopee is Minnesota’s biggest amusement park, with rides for little kids and big ones, too, a water park, mini golf, bumper boats, go-carts, an IMAX theater, and live music. Nickelodeon Universe (1-952-883-8800; nickelodeonuniverse.com), Bloomington, is an indoor theme park at the Mall of America with a more limited selection of rides, but at least it’s open year-round and is a Certified Autism Center.

ANTIQUARIAN BOOKS The Twin Cities has several good options, including Magers & Quinn (612-822-4611; magersandquinn.com), Rulon-Miller Books (651-290-0700; 1-800-441-0076; rulon.com), and James & Mary Laurie Booksellers (612-338-1114; lauriebooks.com).

ANTIQUES Antiques shops abound in Minnesota, especially in the Twin Cities and many of the historic towns along the St. Croix, Mississippi, and Minnesota rivers. For detailed listings throughout the state, check with the Minnesota Antiques Dealers Association (651-430-0095; mnantiquesdealers.com).

AQUARIUMS The Sea Life Minnesota Aquarium (visitsealife.com/minnesota) exhibit at the Mall of America in Bloomington has more than 10,000 exotic sea creatures on display in 30 tanks, viewed by a 300-foot “ocean tunnel.” In Duluth, the Great Lakes Aquarium (218-740-3474; glaquarium.org) has extensive tanks of fish, but as most of them are freshwater and native to the region, they may not be as interesting as the tropical sea life.

ARTISTS AND ART GALLERIES The Twin Cities has a large, healthy arts community, and the visual arts are no exception. Galleries abound throughout the metro area. Farther north, the artist community in Grand Marais keeps several galleries busy, and the scenic drives through the southeast portion of the state (Stillwater, Lanesboro) will also yield several art galleries to visit. And don’t forget about the outdoor sculpture garden in Franconia. There are also art scenes developing in some of the state’s smaller towns across the board.

BALLOONING Hot-air ballooning is popular in Stillwater, where the scenic St. Croix makes for a perfect bird’s-eye trip. Contact Aamodt’s Hot Air Balloons (651-351-0101; aamodtsballoons.com) or Stillwater Balloons (651-439-1800; stillwaterballoons.com).

BEACHES In the land of 10,000 (and more) lakes, it’s a given that there’s a beach around just about every corner. In many cases, the beaches are attached to resorts that reserve those beaches for paying guests. However, most lake communities have at least one good-sized public beach, and some have several. The central lakes district, including Brainerd, Willmar, and Mille Lacs, and Alexandria, have hundreds of lakes with beaches public and private. Farther north, the lake areas around Bemidji and Detroit Lakes and up to the Canadian border, along Voyageurs National Park, have beaches, too, although the swimming season may be shorter. In the Twin Cities, Lake Harriet, Lake Nokomis, and Bde Maka Ska all have public swimming beaches. Many of the surrounding suburbs have city and county parks that have public beaches.

BED-AND-BREAKFASTS Especially down the eastern side of Minnesota, bed-and-breakfasts have become tremendously popular as a lodging option, especially given the number of historic homes that exist in those areas. Many are housed in grand 19th-century homes, some of which have prominent local citizens as the original owners. Today’s owners take great pride in their properties, lovingly maintaining the historic feel, in many cases with period antiques or original furnishings and décor. The proprietors of these homes are generally well connected with their local community as well, with valuable insights into the history and the best places to go for entertainment and food, and they’re more than happy to help. Rates run anywhere from $80 to over $300 per night, depending on location and amenities. There’s also a state association for them: The Minnesota Bed & Breakfast Association (952-303-2325; minnesotabedandbreakfasts.org).

BICYCLING All types of biking terrain are present in the state. If you like a relatively flat ride with both lakes and urban vistas, it’s hard to beat the Grand Rounds in the Twin Cities, which cover 50 miles of trails winding around some of Minneapolis’s popular lakes, along the Mississippi River, and near Minnehaha Falls. In greater Minnesota (collectively, the area of Minnesota beyond the Twin Cities metro area), there are literally thousands of miles of trails, ranging from paved or not, hilly or flat railway grade, wooded or riverside, located in the extensive systems of county and state parks, especially in the Brainerd lakes area and the river bluffs along the Mississippi, Minnesota, and St. Croix rivers. The Minnesota Department of Transportation (1-800-657-3774; dot.state.mn.us/bike) has detailed bike maps available on request, broken down by geographic region. Explore Minnesota (1-888-847-4866; exploreminnesota.com), the state tourism board, also produces bike trail brochures and maps, and many of the larger regional tourist boards have materials related to their area (regional tourist offices are listed at the beginning of each section).

BIRD-WATCHING Given the number of wildlife preserves and state parks, it’s no surprise that Minnesota has numerous areas with excellent birding opportunities. The Minnesota chapter of the Audubon Society (651-739-9332; mn.audubon.org) has detailed lists and maps, showing some of the best places to observe birds, among them the North Shore in the northeast, Big Bog and Lake of the Woods in the north, Itasca State Park and Lac Qui Parle–Big Stone in the central and central-northwest parts of the state, the St. Croix and Mississippi rivers along the eastern border, and the Minnesota River Valley in southwest Minnesota.

BOOKS It’s intimidating to try and list even a fraction of the literature based in Minnesota or written by Minnesotans, or both. The literary arts community in Minnesota is thriving and has been for decades; Minneapolis’s Open Book (openbookmn.org) is a central stopping place for writing classes and author appearances, and there’s a strong network of independent bookstores throughout the state, as well as the ubiquitous Barnes & Noble. But if you’d like to get a sense of the literary landscape, consider reading some of the following books.

F. Scott Fitzgerald, of course, produced classics The Great Gatsby and Tender Is the Night, among other works; he lived in St. Paul with Zelda. Sinclair Lewis, author of Babbitt and Elmer Gantry, lived in Sauk Center in his youth, and in spite of his skewering the town in the fictional Main Street, the community still honors his memory. Charles M. Schulz of Peanuts fame was from Minnesota. Ole Rolvaag, author of the classic pioneer tale Giants in the Earth, emigrated to the United States from Norway in 1896 and lived the last half of his life in Minnesota. J. F. Powers, National Book Award winner, was a longtime professor and writer in residence at St. John’s University and the College of St. Benedict. His books include Morte d’Urban and Wheat That Springeth Green. Naturalist Sigurd Olson memorably chronicled the beauty of Minnesota wilderness in books like Reflections from the North Country and The Singing Wilderness. Much-beloved children’s authors also have roots in Minnesota, from Laura Ingalls Wilder’s Little House series to Maud Hart Lovelace’s Betsy-Tacy series and Wanda Gág’s Millions of Cats.

Contemporary writers who are from or write about Minnesota include Garrison Keillor, the former host of Prairie Home Companion, who has penned several books, including Lake Wobegon Days and Happy to Be Here. Tim O’Brien, who won the National Book Award for Going After Cacciato and was a finalist for the Pulitzer for The Things They Carried, was born in Austin and grew up in Worthington. Time named his novel In the Lake of the Woods best book of the year in 1994. John Sandford, a pseudonym for John Roswell Camp, is the Minnesota author of the best-selling Rules of Prey series. Robert Treuer had a wide-ranging career path, from teacher to Native American tribal organizer, before settling down as a tree farmer in northern Minnesota. His books Voyageur Country: A Park in the Wilderness and The Tree Farm are lyrical nonfiction explorations about life and issues in the northern reaches. David Mura, author of Turning Japanese and Song for Uncle Tom, Tonto & Mr. Moto: Poetry & Identity, is a Minnesota resident, as is memoirist Patricia Hampl, who gracefully writes about growing up in St. Paul in books such as The Florist’s Daughter. Brian Malloy’s novels have detailed life for young gays in the Twin Cities, including The Year of Ice and Brendan Wolf. Anne Ursu’s fictional Minnesota small town facing an emotional crisis in Spilling Clarence is for adults, while her trilogy, the Cronus Chronicles (starting with The Shadow Thieves), get its start at the Mall of America. Shannon Olson gives us a Minnesotan Bridget Jones with Welcome to My Planet: Where English Is Sometimes Spoken. Lorna Landvik congenially covers all manner of small-town foibles and romantic mishaps in her books The View from Mount Joy, The Tall Pine Polka, and Patty Jane’s House of Curl.

BOUNDARY WATERS CANOE AREA WILDERNESS Part of Superior National Forest is more than a million acres of pristine wilderness area, including 1,000 lakes, some of which are restricted to nonmotorized boats, known as the Boundary Waters Canoe Area Wilderness (BWCAW). The BWCAW is one of the state’s top draws. The concept of an untouched, undeveloped, protected wilderness was conceived back in 1919, when the US Forest Service began developing management plans for what would eventually become the BWCAW. Beginning in 1926, roads and development were prohibited in the area, and by the late 1940s the federal government began buying out homeowners and resort owners who still had property in the protected zone. The only exception was Dorothy Molter, a longtime resident known as the Root Beer Lady, who moved into the wilderness in 1934. After locals protested her removal and the Forest Service recognized both the value of her nursing skills and her almost legendary status among the population, she was granted permission to remain in the BWCAW until her death in 1986.

The creation of this quiet, natural preserve was not without controversy. Recreationists who wanted access to the area via airplanes, snowmobiles, and motorboats fought hard in court to preserve the right to bring engines into the area. When the BWCA Wilderness Act was finally passed in 1978, it allowed motorboats on about a quarter of the area’s lakes. This remains controversial to this day, as those who want motorboat access continue to push for more access, saying the small amount of water available to them is not enough, while those who have fought for restricting access to motorboats continue their fight, wishing to reclaim that last quarter. It isn’t likely that the contentious stances will abate anytime soon, and when visiting the BWCAW, be sure to respect each side’s territory.

One thing both sides agree on is the impressive nature of the area. The lakes, tributaries, and forests all combine together to give visitors an unforgettable wilderness experience. There’s something for every level of traveler—easy day trips for beginners, and long portages deep into the wilderness for more experienced canoers and campers. Several outfitting companies, particularly in Grand Marais and Ely, can set up permits and equipment rentals, and can also custom design guided trips.

During the most popular season (May 1–September 30), permits are required for day visitors and campers. Also note that although camping reservations are not required, they are definitely recommended, because the area operates under a quota system during that season, and you could find yourself with no place to stay. For permits and reservations, contact Reserve America (1-877-444-6777; recreation.gov).

One final recommendation: Seriously consider purchasing the Superior National Forest Visitor Map. Published by the USDA in conjunction with Superior National Forest, this is an incredibly detailed map of the BWCAW. It wouldn’t hurt to buy a magnifying glass with which to read it. The BWCAW is full of back roads, often barely more than gravel strips, that don’t appear on most state maps. It’s easy to get lost unless you’re very familiar with the area. The map is available in a sturdy, waterproof plastic version for about $10. Many local gas stations and convenience stores sell it, or contact the Superior National Forest headquarters in Duluth (218-626-4300) for information on ordering one.

BUS SERVICE Greyhound Bus Lines (1-800-231-2222; greyhound.com) is the primary source of public transit, serving more than 70 communities around the state, including several university locations.

CAMPING It almost seems as if the entire state is one giant campground. From the farthest northern corners of the state right down to the southern borders, state and county parks provide countless opportunities for camping, some with fairly modern campsites with electricity and facilities, others bare-bones in nature. Some require reservations and/or permits, some don’t. Many of the major parks and forests, including Voyageurs National Park and the Boundary Waters Canoe Area Wilderness, are covered in this book. Minnesota’s Department of Natural Resources (dnr.statemn.us) has extensive information about campsites and policies in the state parks and state forests, as well as some online reservations capabilities. The National Park Service (nps.gov/voya) has camping and reservation information for Voyageurs National Park. Reserve America (recreation.gov) provides requirements for permits and camping in the Boundary Waters Canoe Area Wilderness, but note that if you’re working through an outfitter, they are likely to handle those arrangements for you; be sure to ask.

Wherever you choose to camp, always check with local authorities ahead of time as to fire restrictions. Summer droughts have become increasingly common, and the risk of wildfire is very real; you may find that campfires are prohibited.

Speaking of campfires, it’s important to note that when using a state or national campground or park (and many regional parks as well), bringing in non-local firewood is not permitted because of the increased spread of forest pests, especially the emerald ash borer. Where there’s a park and a campground, there are places to buy wood locally. Just be sure to get a receipt in case you’re asked to prove where it came from.

CANOEING AND KAYAKING Lake Superior; Lake of the Woods; the Boundary Waters; Lake Kabetogama; the Mississippi, Minnesota, and St. Croix rivers; the Chain of Lakes in Minneapolis—these are just a few of the options for those who like to explore by water. Rentals and outfitters abound; where there is water, there is a way to get onto the water. Arrangements can be as elaborate as guided canoeing or kayaking and camping tours, or they can be as simple as an afternoon’s rental. Canoeing in the Boundary Waters, where there are entire waterways restricted to nonmotorized boats, needs at least a daily entry permit (or a more formal permit for multiple days and camping).

CHILDREN, ESPECIALLY FOR Minnesota is generally a child-friendly state, and throughout this guide are numerous activities, museums, festivals, and restaurants that have been marked with the crayon symbol: images .

CRAFTS Conventional wisdom would say it’s the result of long winters, but love of crafts is alive and well in the North Star State. In the Twin Cities metro area alone, dozens of craft stores, many independently owned and operated, sell fabric, yarn, beads, woodworking supplies, and scrapbooking supplies. The diversity of crafts being produced is burgeoning as well, and indie craft shows such as No Coast Craft-o-Rama (nocoastcraft.com) and Craftstravaganza (craftstravaganza.com) showcase unusual and funky projects that definitely turn the notion of crafts as fuddy-duddy right on its head.

Which isn’t to say traditional craftwork isn’t valued. Most notably, the North House Folk School (218-387-9762 or 1-888-387-9762; northhouse.org) in Grand Marais offers year-round classes in everything from knitting to bread making to canoe building to how to construct your own yurt or outdoor brick oven.

DINING Foodies are sitting up and taking notice at what’s happening in Minnesota. No longer a culinary backwater, the state’s chefs are generating interest and intrigue for their innovative menus, as well as their increased commitment to using locally grown products for seasonal menus whenever possible. In the Twin Cities, most restaurants are open nightly or, at most, closed Monday. In greater Minnesota, you may find restaurants with more limited weekly or seasonal hours. Recent years have seen numerous chefs and food writers from Minnesota being nominated for—and sometimes winning—the prestigious James Beard Foundation Awards. Restaurants with strong reputations with the fine-dining crowd, such Bachelor Farmer or Meritage, don’t require reservations, but they’re strongly recommended. There’s also been a rise in the number of multicultural restaurants; immigrants have introduced authentic Asian, African, and Hispanic foods to the state. For diners who prefer their food not to be too Americanized, there are numerous worthwhile options to choose from.

DRESS CODE One thing out-of-towners sometimes comment on is the dress code, or lack thereof, at restaurants and events that would be considered at least semiformal elsewhere. It’s not uncommon to see casual khakis and sweaters alongside suits and dresses at fine-dining venues and the theater. Whether or not this is a good thing is up for debate—but don’t be surprised when you see it.

EMERGENCIES Call 911 from anywhere in the state. In each section, regional hospitals are listed.

FACTORY OUTLETS Albertville, which is a community north of Minneapolis, has the Albertville Premium Outlets (premiumoutlets.com), with 100 stores, and is by far the largest outlet center in the state. This is discussed in more detail in the “Minneapolis’s Neighboring Communities” chapter.

FALL FOLIAGE September and October can be variable in terms of weather, but when the days are crisp and clear, the fall colors in various parts of the state can be spectacular. Starting up north across the eastern half of the state (along Voyageurs National Park and the Canadian border); through the Boundary Waters, the Iron Range, and the North Shore; and down south through the Twin Cities and the St. Croix, Mississippi, and Minnesota rivers, large areas of forests set on rolling land along water make for prime foliage viewing. Most restaurants, hotels, and bed-and-breakfasts are open at least weekends during the fall for visitors seeking the turning of the leaves.

FARM STANDS AND FARMERS’ MARKETS Whether they’re popular as a result of a long agricultural history or because today’s foodies are increasingly interested in local, sustainable foods, farmers’ markets and farm stands can be found in pretty much every corner of the state. It may be something as simple as a teenager selling corn off the back of a pickup or as elaborate as the revered farmers’ markets in Minneapolis and St. Paul, but there’s something for everyone. For complete listings, check with the Minnesota Farmers’ Market Association (mfma.org). Note: In the Minneapolis and St. Paul sections, information about some of the more prominent city markets is included.

FESTIVALS Minnesota is a state full of festivals. Some are cultural explorations, such as Kolacky Days and Scandinavian Midsommar Tag. Others celebrate local history or agriculture, such as Irish Fest and Barnesville’s Potato Days (mashed potato wrestling, anyone?). Some sound just plain goofy (Eelpout Festival, St. Urhu Day) but are beloved local traditions. Some of the “best of” are listed at the end of each chapter. Additional information and listings can be found by visiting the tourist boards listed in the Guidance sections at the beginning of each section.

FIRE Wildfires are always a concern in wilderness areas, and Minnesota is no exception, especially since recent years have seen significant droughts in parts of the state. When planning a camping trip, be sure to find out if there are campfire restrictions. As this can change from one day to the next, it’s best to check upon arrival to make sure you’re not violating any new restrictions.

FISHING Fishing is a summer and winter sport in Minnesota, with options of open-water fishing to dropping your line in a hole cut in the ice, usually in an ice house. Many of the lake resorts have become year-round destinations due to the popularity of ice fishing, and it’s possible in some areas to rent a sleep-ready ice house, complete with electricity and bathroom facilities. Fishing is a licensed activity, and licenses are generally easy to obtain, usually available from local DNR offices and convenience stores. For information on cost and restrictions, see dnr.state.mn.us.

GAMBLING Minnesota has 22 casinos scattered throughout the state, on 11 Indian reservations. All casinos offer slot machines and table games like blackjack and poker, and most offer bingo. Live entertainment is frequently scheduled at the larger casinos, like Mystic Lake Casino (mysticlake.com) in Prior Lake and Grand Casino Hinckley (grandcasinomn.com) in Hinckley getting some well-known and current entertainers. In addition, Canterbury Park (canterburypark.com) in Shakopee offers card games 24/7, live horse racing during the summer, and simulcast horse racing from other tracks year-round.

GOLF Minnesotans are passionate about golf, a fact demonstrated by the extreme weather golfers are willing to cope with in order to get out on the course. The state has nearly 600 courses, public and private, and the terrain varies from lush and meticulously maintained fairways to the northernmost golf course in the United States, the Northwest Angle Country Club. The Minnesota Tourism Board (exploreminnesota.com) can provide complimentary golf brochures on request, or check online at exploreminnesotagolf.com for a detailed directory.

HANDICAP ACCESS Throughout this book, entries marked with the wheelchair symbol images indicate attractions, lodging, and restaurants that are handicapped accessible.

HIKING Miles and miles of trails, paved and unpaved, flat and rolling, forest and prairie, await visitors statewide. The multitude of state parks offer just about every sort of terrain, wildlife viewing, and flora and fauna imaginable for the region. The Minnesota Department of Natural Resources (dnr.state.mn.us) has detailed information on each park on its website, and the department also offers two hiking clubs: The Hiking Club offers hikers graduated levels of awards for hiking preset mileage levels, with the ultimate awards coming in the form of free nights of camping. The Passport Club rewards travelers for visiting state parks. The regional tourism offices listed in each section can provide information and maps on that region’s hiking opportunities, while the Minnesota Tourism Board (exploreminnesota.com) can provide complimentary hiking brochures on request.

HISTORY Minnesota’s history runs the full gamut from pioneers to fur traders to Native Americans to barons of industry; to famous politicians to contentious or well-beloved authors, actors, and musicians; to devastating natural tragedies to scandalous murders. Jesse James’s epic arrival in Northfield, Hubert Humphrey’s presidential campaign, John Dillinger’s reign in St. Paul, former pro wrestler Jesse Ventura’s reign as governor, the quintessential pioneer Laura Ingalls Wilder’s travels through southern Minnesota, Bob Dylan’s roots on the Iron Range, Bronko Nagurski’s legendary football career getting its start in International Falls, musical icon Prince, and A Prairie Home Companion’s former host, Garrison Keillor, are just some of the legends past and present who are associated with Minnesota. And in one way or another, these people (and many more) and events throughout the state’s history are commemorated in various displays, exhibits, and festivals.

HUNTING Hunting is a licensed activity in Minnesota. Among the game that’s legal to hunt (with the proper license and in season) is bear, deer, pheasant, wild turkey, grouse, and waterfowl. Licenses are generally easy to obtain, usually available from local DNR offices (including some by phone or on the website) and convenience stores. For information on cost and restrictions, see dnr.state.mn.us.

INFORMATION ABOUT MINNESOTA, OFFICIAL Explore Minnesota (651-296-5029 or 1-888-868-7476; exploreminne sota.com) is the central state tourism organization. Visitors are welcome at the headquarters at 121 E. 7th Place in St. Paul, or at one of the travel information centers located in Albert Lea, Beaver Creek, Dresbach, Bloomington (Mall of America), Fisher’s Landing, Grand Portage Bay, Moorhead, St. Cloud, St. Croix, Duluth, and Worthington. Explore Minnesota also partners with various local tourist boards, chambers of commerce, and convention and visitor bureaus all over the state. A thorough listing of local and regional tourism groups is available on the Explore Minnesota website.

INTERNET Throughout this book, Internet websites for attractions, recreational sites, lodging, and restaurants have been given whenever they are available. The Internet has been embraced as a wonderful informational tool by smaller businesses, to the advantage of the traveling public, and it’s likely that even more companies will have gone online by the time this book goes to press. Access to high-speed Internet and Wi-Fi, often free, is becoming more prevalent as well. Many hotels, restaurants, coffee shops, libraries, and university campuses can provide online access to visitors. The tower symbol images appears next to businesses that have Internet/Wi-Fi access.

LAKES The land of 10,000 lakes is a slight underestimation. There are actually more than 15,000 lakes across the state, nearly 12,000 of which are at least 10 acres in size. The Minnesota DNR says that Minnesota’s lakes and rivers have more shoreline than California, Florida, and Hawaii combined. To the delight of visitors, those shorelines provide ample opportunities for enjoyment year-round: boating, fishing (including ice fishing in winter), swimming, waterskiing, and sightseeing. Several state parks have multiple lakes, as does the one national park (Voyageurs National Park; nps.gov/voya). The North Shore, riding along the coast of Lake Superior, provides an almost oceanic viewing experience, while the Brainerd Lakes District is among some of the best known in the state for vacationers. Accommodations varying from rustic campsites to deluxe resorts with every possible amenity can be found; the demand is particularly high in summer, so booking in advance is strongly recommended.

LANGUAGE CAMPS The northern region of Minnesota is home to Concordia Language Villages (218-299-4544 or 1-800-222-4750; concordialanguagevillages.org). The program’s headquarters are in Moorhead, but most of the year-round villages are just outside Bemidji. The villages are self-contained cultural units, with different camps developed for Spanish, French, German, Russian, Norwegian, and Finnish. Each village is designed to look like a classic village from that country. Additional summer-only villages are offered elsewhere in the state, including camps for Chinese, Italian, Arabic, Korean, and Swedish. There are programs offered for adults and children, most of them on an immersion basis, but it’s not just language that’s offered; students will learn about customs, culture, and foods of their chosen regions.

Even if you aren’t interested in registering for a camp, a visit to the villages is worth the side trip—the attention to detail is impressive, and the villages are nestled in stately forests, giving the visitor an otherworldly feel.

LEFSE AND LUTEFISK Minnesota has a strong Scandinavian heritage, and especially around the holidays or at seasonal festivals, it’s inevitable that the classic Scandinavian foods, lefse and lutefisk, will make an appearance. Of the two, lefse is more widely enjoyed; it’s a potato pastry, rolled out thin and briefly grilled. Some choose to add butter, sugar, cinnamon, or all three (I recommend the last). Lutefisk is a horse of a different color, falling right into the “love it or hate it” category, and it’s the subject of many jokes. Essentially, lutefisk is fish soaked in lye. Although not everyone’s first choice, lutefisk is still very popular for holiday church dinners, festivals, and at Christmas time.

LITTER Littering in Minnesota is punishable on the first offense by a misdemeanor charge that goes on the driving record; subsequent offenses are subject to fines of several hundred dollars.

LODGING Minnesota offers a highly diverse group of lodging choices: bed-and-breakfasts, resorts, cabins deluxe and primitive, motels, private homes, overnight ice fishing houses, upscale hotels, houseboats, even yurts. The rates quoted in this book reflect a per-night rate for two people, and keep in mind that rates are fluid; please don’t hold us or the accommodations to the rates quoted, but instead view them as a guideline, not an absolute. In general, most bed-and-breakfasts don’t accept children under 12 (but it’s noted if they do), and many cabins or lake resorts have minimum-stay requirements (anywhere from three to seven nights) during peak periods. Pets are not accepted unless the pet symbol images is shown, and even then it’s a good idea to confirm when reserving as to what size or types of pets may be restricted and if additional fees apply. Nearly all accept credit cards; hotels will accept a credit card as a guarantee for arrival, while bed-and-breakfasts or lake resorts may require a prepaid deposit, and some smaller resorts prefer checks or cash. Cancellation policies vary, so confirm the policy before committing any money.

MALL OF AMERICA The Mall of America (mallofamerica.com) is a shopper’s paradise, with over 4 million square feet that includes not only more than 500 stores, but 30 fast-food restaurants, 20 sit-down restaurants, an underground aquarium, a convenience store, photo studios, a 14-screen movie theater complex, a wedding chapel, a comedy club, a flight simulator, and an indoor theme park. The retail anchors are Nordstrom and Macy’s, and the surrounding stores include everything from clothing to electronics to jewelry to books to cosmetics, to Christmas decorations to crafts to Irish gifts to items made in Minnesota. Across the street from the mall is home furnishings superstore IKEA and a Radisson Hotel with the Waterpark of America, so there’s something for everyone to do.

MAPS The Minnesota Department of Transportation produces a new Official State Highway Map every other year, and one free copy can be obtained by contacting Explore Minnesota (651-296-5029 or 1-888-868-7476), collecting one in person at one of the state’s many travel information centers (see “Information about Minnesota, Official”), or by visiting the DOT’s website (dot.state.mn.us), where portions of the maps can be downloaded and printed.

For maps detailed with a significant amount of tourist information, Professor Pathfinder’s Supermaps, published by Hedberg Maps (hedbergmaps.com), come in a full-state version as well as regional maps (Twin Cities, northern Minnesota, southern Minnesota, Brainerd lakes) and are clearly marked and easily read.

As noted earlier in Boundary Waters Canoe Area Wilderness, a trip to the BWCAW wouldn’t be complete without acquiring the Superior National Forest Visitor Map (along with a magnifying glass with which to read it). This map, published by the USDA in conjunction with Superior National Forest, is an incredibly detailed map of the BWCAW and is available in a sturdy, waterproof plastic version for about $10. Many local gas stations and convenience stores sell it, or contact the Superior National Forest headquarters in Duluth (218-626-4300) for information on ordering one.

If you’d really like to explore off the beaten path, consider buying road maps by county, also offered by the Minnesota Department of Transportation. These maps are highly detailed and include all the minor county roads that don’t show up on the full state map. While GPS is useful, it doesn’t always keep up with the lesser-used roads; a good map comes in very handy.

MINNESOTA GROWN Among the Minnesota-produced items available for purchase throughout the state are maple syrup, cheese, meats, honey, candles, jams, and, in season, all kinds of fresh vegetables and fruits (some of the latter available from pick-your-own farms). The Minnesota Department of Agriculture (651-201-6000 or 1-800-967-2474; mda.state.mn.us) has online and print directories for finding locally made items.

MINNESOTA PUBLIC BROADCASTING Minnesota has both public radio (Minnesota Public Radio; mpr.org) and public television (Twin Cities Public Television; tpt.org). Both are headquartered in the Twin Cities, but satellite stations throughout the state carry the public programming. Visit each company’s website for specific locations and channels. Also note that MPR has three radio options: MPR itself is a classical radio station, while KNOW is talk and news radio, and the Current plays a widely diverse, eclectic selection of indie, local, and alternative music.

MOVIES Popular movies are easily tracked down in most communities. For those looking for smaller, independent, foreign, or art house movies, good bets in the Twin Cities include the Uptown Theatre and Lagoon Cinema in Minneapolis and the Edina Cinema in Edina (landmarktheatres.com), as well as the venerable Oak Street Cinema (mnfilmarts.org/oakstreet) at the University of Minnesota. The annual Minneapolis–St. Paul International Film Fest (mspfilm fest.org) is a big event each year, with nearly 70 films.

MUSEUMS Minnesota must be given credit for being a state highly supportive of museums big and small. From the world-class Minneapolis Institute of Art (artsmia.org) and the Walker Art Center (walkerart.org), which together comprise significant collections of classic and contemporary art, to smaller museums like the Museum of Russian Art (tmora.org) and the Minnesota Marine Art Museum (507-474-6626 or 1-866-940-6626; minnesotamarineart.org), patrons of the arts have much to choose from.

The Weisman Art Museum (weisman.umn.edu) is a newer member of the arts community, housed in a Frank Gehry building at the University of Minnesota and newly expanded as of late 2011. Duluth has the Tweed Museum (d.umn.edu/tma) at the University of Minnesota’s Duluth campus, while down south in Winona is the Minnesota Marine Art Museum (minnesotamarineart.org), devoted to nautical artwork, including works by O’Keeffe, Monet, Picasso, and Van Gogh. Add in options for families, such as the Minnesota Children’s Museum (mcm.org), the Science Museum of Minnesota (smm.org), and the Bakken Museum (thebakken.org), as well as historical options including Mill City Museum (mill citymuseum.org), the Minnesota History Center Museum (mnhs.org), the Hinckley Fire Museum (seans.com/sunset web/hinckley), the Bronko Nagurski Museum (bronkonagurski.com/museum.htm), and the nearly countless city and county historical societies that provide invaluable insights into all aspects of Minnesota history, and there is plenty for any museum aficionado to do.

MUSIC Minnesotans are passionate about their music, whether it’s classical, country, rock, alternative/indie, jazz, bluegrass, or anything in between. Live venues of every size are open in the Twin Cities, from Target Center (targetcenter.com) and Xcel Energy Center (xcelenergycenter.com) to Orchestra Hall (minnesotaorchestra.org) and the Ordway (ordway.org) to the Fine Line (finelinemusic.com), the Dakota (dakotacooks.com), and First Avenue (first-avenue.com). Those are just the best-known options, but there are literally dozens, if not hundreds, of other clubs, stages, and bars with live music.

Besides concerts, music festivals are wildly popular in Minnesota, particularly in the summer, when they can be held outdoors. Among the big shows are the annual WE Fest (wefest.com), Moondance Jam (moondancejam.com), Sonshine Festival (sonshinefestival.com), the Minnesota Bluegrass & Old-Time Music Festival (minnesotabluegrass.org), and the Boundary Waters Blues Festival (elyblues.com). More festivals and information are listed in each chapter.

NATURE PRESERVES Minnesota has thousands of acres maintained as nature preserves (also called Scientific & Natural Area, or SNA), and as such, they provide numerous opportunities for hiking and wildlife viewing, with the heaviest concentration of such preserves in the western and southwestern parts of the state. The Minnesota Department of Natural Resources (dnr.state.mn.us) and the Nature Conservancy (nature.org) both have comprehensive listings of locations and what you can expect to find. Areas like the Black Dog Nature Preserve, Burntside Islands SNA, Frenchman’s Bluff SNA, Glacial Ridge National Wildlife Refuge, and Bluestem Prairie SNA are just a few of the more than 140 preserves across the state that give glimpses of now hard-to-find prairies and untouched forests, not to mention deer, prairie chickens, eagles, wolves, falcons, whooping cranes, pheasants, owls, and herons.

NEWSPAPERS AND PERIODICALS In the Twin Cities, there are two major daily papers: Minneapolis’s Star Tribune (startribune.com) and St. Paul’s Pioneer Press (twincities.com). There are also a number of independent papers that publish weekly or monthly, including City Pages (citypages.com), which is an excellent resource for local events of every kind and in-depth restaurant reviews.

In terms of periodicals, Minneapolis–St. Paul Magazine (mspmag.com) is a monthly publication, available at most bookstores, newsstands, and grocery stores, that has information on Twin Cities events and an extensive restaurant guide. Minnesota Monthly (minnesotamonthly.com), although much of its coverage focuses on the Twin Cities, does provide good resources for restaurants, lodging, and events outside the metro area. A third magazine, Metro Magazine (metromag.com), focuses specifically on the Twin Cities and picks up some of the edgier, younger events and venues. All magazines publish several “Best Of” issues each year, often by theme or blanketing several topics (dining, shopping, etc.).

Nearly every city of any size has at least a weekly newspaper, and several (Duluth, Bemidji, Brainerd, Rochester, Faribault, International Falls, to name a few) have newspapers published five to seven days a week and available for sale at local stores.

PARKS AND FORESTS, NATIONAL Voyageurs National Park (281-283-9821; nps.gov/voya) is the only national park in Minnesota. It borders Canada along the northern edge of Minnesota, nudging up to Superior National Forest (218-626-4300; fs.fed.us/r9/forests/superior), which in turn contains the Boundary Waters Canoe Area Wilderness on the US side. Voyageurs National Park and Superior National Forest together comprise some of the most beautiful and remote wilderness areas in the state. Together they account for millions of acres of forests, lakes, and streams; connect the region to Canada; and provide countless opportunities for camping, hiking, canoeing, kayaking, houseboating, fishing, and hunting.

The other national area is Chippewa National Forest (218-335-8600; fs.usda.gov), a 1.6-million acre preserve south and west of Voyageurs National Park and Superior National Forest. Together with the latter two, Chippewa National Forest provides year-round recreational opportunities. Minnesota’s third- and fourth-largest lakes, Leech Lake and Lake Winnibigoshish (also known as Lake Winnie), are in the forest, along with another 1,300 lakes. Wildlife is abundant in the three national areas; wolves, bald eagles, deer, moose, bobcats, owls, and cougars are not uncommon.

PARKS AND FORESTS, STATE The Minnesota Department of Natural Resources (dnr.state.mn.us) is the go-to organization for information about Minnesota’s state parks, which rival the national parks and forests for recreation and amenities. There are more than 70 parks spread out across the state, including popular visitor sites such as Gooseberry Falls and Split Rock Lighthouse on the North Shore and Itasca in northern Minnesota (home to the Mississippi River headwaters) to the more remote but equally beautiful Zippel Bay in the far north region on Lake of the Woods, and Mystery Cave in southern Minnesota.

In addition, Minnesota also has 58 state forests, also managed by the Minnesota State DNR. All but one of these forests is located in the central and northern regions of Minnesota, while the Richard J. Doner Memorial Hardwood Forest is in the far southeastern corner of the state. Like the national parks and forests, the state parks and forests offer year-round recreational opportunities, with access to a vast number of lakes and rivers.

PETS Accommodations that accept pets are noted with the images symbol in each chapter. But be sure to call ahead; most lodgings that take pets have restrictions regarding the types and sizes of pets, and there may be advance reservations and fee requirements.

POPULATION Per the US Census Bureau, the population of Minnesota is 5,266,214 (as of 2009).

RAIL TRAVEL See AMTRAK.

SAILING Even though winter puts a damper on the fun, the sheer number of Minnesota lakes makes sailing a popular warm-weather pastime. In the Twin Cities, sailboats can be seen on nearly all of the lakes, especially Bde Maka Ska, Lake Harriet, and Lake Minnetonka. But you can expect to see sailboats on just about any body of water or river throughout the state, and rentals can be arranged in every resort area.

SKIING, CROSS-COUNTRY State and national parks and forests, combined with county and city parks, provide thousands of miles of groomed and rough trails for cross-country enthusiasts. This is an activity that takes place in virtually every spot in the state, whether it’s on flat prairie land with long-range views, through forests and challenging hills, or across lakes and along riverbanks. Rental equipment is available in most resort towns.

SKIING, DOWNHILL Mountains aren’t the first things that come to mind when thinking about Minnesota, but the winter season combined with some larger-than-average hills do keep winter visitors busy. Among the biggest and most advanced ski resorts is Lutsen (218-663-7281; lutsen.com) on the North Shore, which comes complete with slope-side accommodations and all degree of runs (more information is in the “North Shore/Lutsen” chapter). Book ahead—winter weekends tend to be very popular.

Afton Alps (651-436-5245 or 1-800-328-1328; aftonalps.com), just outside of Hastings, is the biggest ski resort within easy range of the Twin Cities. There are no slope-side accommodations here, but there are several options in nearby Hastings.

Among the other downhill ski resorts around the state are Buck Hill (952-435-7174; buckhill.com) in Burnsville; Spirit Mountain (218-628-2891 or 1-800-642-6377; spiritmt.com) in Duluth; Welch Village (651-258-4567; welchvillage.com) in Welch; Buena Vista (218-243-2231; bvskiarea.com) in Bemidji; Wild Mountain (651-465-6315 or 1-800-447-4958; wildmountain.com) in Taylors Falls; and Mt. Kato (507-625-3363 or 1-800-668-5286; mountkato.com) in Mankato. Ski and snowboard lessons and rentals are available on-site, and several resorts have ski lodges and tubing hills as well.

SMOKING As of press time, smoking is banned in restaurants, bars, and other public establishments. Some counties and cities within Minnesota have enacted local legislation for stricter limitations. When in doubt, ask.

SNOWMOBILING Snowmobiling is a popular sport in Minnesota, used for both recreation and as a practical mode of transport, particularly in the western half of the state. However, that doesn’t mean snowmobiles can go anywhere; parts of the Boundary Waters Canoe Area Wilderness are off-limits to motorized vehicles, including snowmobiles. Many state parks and forests have trails for snowmobilers, but be sure to stay on those trails, as wandering off-trail can interfere with the work being done in nature preserves throughout the park systems. The Twin Cities metro area has varying restrictions on snowmobiles, with some cities allowing them and others banning them. To get specific information on annual regulations and requirements, check with the Minnesota Department of Natural Resources (dnr.state.mn.us/snowmobiling/index.html).

THEATER Minnesota’s commitment to the arts community continues into the world of theater. Minneapolis has several world-renowned theatrical companies, including the Guthrie Theater (612-377-2224 or 1-877-447-8243; guthrietheater.org) and the Children’s Theatre Company (612-874-0400; childrenstheatre.org). But theaters of all shapes, sizes, and theatrical genres thrive in communities large and small across the state. The Twin Cities is also home to the Jungle Theater (612-822-7063; jungletheater.com) and the Chanhassen Dinner Theatres (952-934-1525 or 1-800-362-3515; chanhassentheatres.com). In greater Minnesota, the Paul Bunyan Playhouse (218-751-7270; paulbunyanplayhouse.com) in Bemidji is one of the state’s longest-running summer stock theaters. On the North Shore, the Grand Marais Playhouse (218-387-1284; arrowheadcenterforthearts.org) offers productions year-round. Commonweal (507-467-2525 or 1-800-657-7025; commonwealtheatre.org) in Lanesboro offers several productions each year—one of them is always by Norwegian playwright Henrik Ibsen—and also sponsors the annual Ibsen Festival. The Great River Shakespeare Festival (507-474-7900; grsf.org) in Winona takes place annually in the summer with highly professional Shakespearian productions. Other theaters are noted throughout the book.

TRAFFIC Generally speaking, Minnesota roads are reasonably well maintained and well-marked. That said, there are always some trouble spots to plan around. The web of intertwining freeways around and through the Twin Cities metro area have routine rush hour slowdowns each weekday, especially during rainy or snowy weather. Friday and Sunday afternoons in the spring and summer find another kind of gridlock—the “going to the cabin” slowdown. Highways leading north from the Twin Cities, particularly I-94, I-494, and I-694, can crawl along at an agonizingly slow pace each weekend, and even worse if it’s a holiday weekend. Whenever possible, try to plan driving at other times; you’ll get there faster with less aggravation.

Beyond the lakes traffic, be aware that many of the communities around the lakes and rivers have grown in popularity with vacationers faster than their road systems have been expanded. Driving through Brainerd or Stillwater or along MN 61 on the North Shore on a summer’s day is almost guaranteed to be slow, with far more vehicles crowding the roads than usual, and bottlenecks occurring every block with stoplights or left-turning cars. Adding to the frustration is the increase in road construction and repair projects that take place in the summer. A good map can give you ideas of side roads to take, but it’s not recommended to do that on a whim; a 5-mile paved road detour might turn into a 35-mile gravel road detour if your choice of side road is also undergoing construction. When planning driving routes, always check with the Minnesota Department of Transportation (651-296-3000 or 1-800-657-3774; dot.state.mn.us), which publishes frequent or real-time updates on road conditions and traffic problems all over the state.

WEATHER Minnesota definitely has a winter season; although it’s more pronounced the farther north you go, it’s not as wicked as legends would have it. That said, if you’re traveling in the winter, be absolutely sure to keep an eye on local weather forecasts (local radio and TV stations carry forecasts from the National Weather Service, or the website weather.com provides up-to-the-minute information), especially if you’re headed north. Snow is one concern, but for those heading to the western part of the state, wind and cold can be as big, if not a bigger, concern; the long flat plains and prairies have no way to break the wind, which can push snow into conditions of whiteout, and following a road can be close to impossible. When there is a travel advisory listed for a specific region, pay heed, and consider staying put. The snowflake symbol images appears next to establishments that are open during the off-season, which in Minnesota is generally October through April.

WEBSITES Wherever available, website addresses have been included for accommodations, restaurants, attractions, tourist boards and chambers of commerce, and hospitals. When one isn’t listed, that’s only because none was offered at time of publication.

WINERIES Several entrepreneurial and hardy souls have attacked the notion that wine cannot be produced in a wintry seasonal climate. Wineries have begun to appear in all regions of Minnesota, some using specially cultivated grapes that are better able to withstand winter, and others using fruits besides grapes (blueberries, rhubarb) to create unusual and fun wines. Alexis Bailly Vineyard (651-437-1413; abvwines.com) in Hastings was one of the first to work with grapes in Minnesota, producing its first vintage in 1978. Today there’s even a “Wine Trail” (threeriverswinetrail.com)—a group of five wineries in the St. Croix, Mississippi, and Cannon river valleys in southeast Minnesota, all producing wines that are increasingly enjoying acclaim and success. At this point, most are still in the southern half of the state, where the climate is a bit more temperate, but not far from Bemidji is Forestedge Winery (forestedgewinery.com), which works with local fruits (chokecherries, raspberries, Honeycrisp apples) to create some flavorful wines.