Once you leave Duluth, you will want a car, if for no other reason than to be able to stop on a whim and visit scenic overlooks, trails, shops, and cafés. Make sure you take Scenic Highway 61 (MN 61) out of Duluth; you’ll miss the lake views if you take Superior Street instead.
To See and Do
Gooseberry Falls State Park (218-595-7100; dnr.state.mn.us/state_parks/index.html), 3206 E. MN 61, Two Harbors. Open daily 9–5. Admission is free. This waterfall area is by no means the largest waterfall in the United States, but it’s visitor friendly, with a sizable visitor center and extensive trails and walkways. Pets are allowed, and there are “doggie bags” strategically placed to encourage owners to clean up after their pets. The park twists and turns around the base of the falls, allowing access to both sides. Be sure to wear sturdy shoes; crossing wet rocks is a tricky proposition in the best of footgear, and flip-flops could be downright dangerous.
Split Rock Lighthouse (218-226-6372; mnhs.org/splitrock), 3713 Split Rock Lighthouse Road (in Split Rock Lighthouse State Park, dnr.state.mn.us/state_parks/index.html), Two Harbors. Open daily May 15–Oct. 31. Adults $10; senior citizens, college students with ID, and active military and veterans $8; children 5–17 $6; children under 5 and MNHS members free. North of Duluth on MN 61 is Split Rock Lighthouse. This small beacon for passing ships is not large in stature, but placed as it is on a dramatic, steep cliff, it has proved its worth for decades. Now it’s open for tourists to visit, along with a large visitor center with gift shop and video presentation. If you’re feeling fit, take the trail that leads down the side of the cliff to the beach below (171 steps each way) for amazing views of the lighthouse and the surrounding shorelines. The lighthouse grounds are connected to the Gitchi-Gami State Trail (see Green Space and Outdoor Activities), which can be used by bikers or inline skaters. Split Rock is open seasonally, with a special opening each November 10 (call for hours) to commemorate the sinking of the Edmund Fitzgerald.
HIKING TRAIL AT TETTEGOUCHE STATE PARK
TWO HARBORS
North of Duluth is the iron ore and fishing port of Two Harbors. Turn off Scenic Highway 61 (MN 61) onto Waterfront Drive to visit the historic shore area, and to tour the Edna G., the last coal-fired, steam-powered tugboat. Towering over the Edna G. is an enormous ore dock, still in use today. Nearby is the Duluth and Iron Range Depot, formerly the headquarters for that company and home to the Depot Museum. A short distance from the museum is the Two Harbors Light Station. First lit in 1892, the light station is still operational, although automation has replaced the lighthouse keeper. The site is a historic museum open seasonally, and part of the lighthouse serves as the Lighthouse Bed & Breakfast, for guests who enjoy a historic stay. The grounds have short but scenic hiking trails, including a breakwater out into Lake Superior that affords great views of the dock and the town.
THE EDNA G. TUGBOAT AND IRON ORE DOCKS AT TWO HARBORS
North Shore Commercial Fishing Museum (218-663-7050; commercialfishingmuseum.org), 7136 MN 61, Tofte. Open Tues.–Sat. mid-May–mid-Oct., Fri.–Sat. mid-Oct.–mid-May. Adults $3; children 6–16 $1; children under 6 free. This museum is dedicated to preserving and giving insight into the long history of commercial fishing on Lake Superior.
Green Space and Outdoor Activities
The North Shore is all about the outdoors, whether it’s summer or winter.
DOGSLED RIDING Stoney Creek Kennels (218-663-0143; facebook.com/Stoney-Creek-Sled-Dogs/1688802601367184), 142 Sawbill Trail, Tofte. Open seasonally depending on snowfall, usually Dec.–Mar. Experience firsthand the thrill of riding behind a team of well-trained sled dogs. Excursions can run anywhere from 15 minutes to a full day.
SPLIT ROCK LIGHTHOUSE
HIKING Superior Hiking Trail (218-834-2700; superiorhiking.org), 731 7th Avenue, Two Harbors. Trail information center open Mon., Thurs., and Fri. Run by the Superior Hiking Trail Association (SHTA), this collection of hiking byways and trails covers more than 320 miles along the Lake Superior shoreline from the Minnesota-Wisconsin state borders southeast of Jay Cooke State Park to the Canadian border west of Grand Portage. Frequent campsites and parking lots allow visitors to choose between backpacking and taking short day hikes. Contact the SHTA for information on their lodge-to-lodge hiking programs.
Gitchi-Gami State Trail (ggta.org). Long-term plans show an ambitious 89 miles of nonmotorized trails extending from Two Harbors to Grand Marais. Nearly 30 miles have been completed and are open for visitors. A large section is open beginning at Gooseberry Falls through to Tofte.
Palisade Head, 4 miles northeast of Silver Bay. The road to Palisade Head is a short, narrow, gravel road that brings you to a parking lot and a scenic overlook off a 200-foot rock cliff formed by lava more than a billion years ago. It’s a popular spot for rock climbers, but even if you don’t climb, you’ll be rewarded with the panoramic views of Lake Superior and the shoreline for miles on a clear day—all the way to Split Rock Lighthouse to the south, the Sawtooth Mountains to the northeast, and Wisconsin’s Apostle Islands directly east. Hang on to small children—there are no safety fences.
PARKS
Tettegouche State Park (218-353-8800; dnr.state.mn.us/state_parks/index.html), 5702 MN 61, Silver Bay. Tettegouche has nearly every kind of natural feature—Lake Superior shoreline, waterfalls and rivers (including the 60-foot-tall High Falls), mountainous hiking terrain, six inland lakes, and dense forests. There are 23 miles of hiking trails; in winter, cross-country skiers have 15 miles of trails. Snowmobilers and ATV users have limited trail access as well.
Temperance River State Park (218-663-7476; dnr.state.mn.us/state_parks /index.html), MN 61, Schroeder. A heavily wooded state park with waterfalls, rivers, hiking trails, camping, snowmobiling, cross-country skiing, and rock climbing. Hikers should be sure to take the trail that winds upstream from the parking lot until you reach the Temperance River gorge, incredibly narrow and leading to spectacular waterfalls.
SKIING Lutsen Mountains (218-663-7281; lutsen.com), Ski Hill Road (County Route 5), Lutsen. Lutsen is Minnesota’s largest ski area, with 95 runs of varying difficulty across four mountains. Downhill skiers, snowboarders, and cross-country skiers have 1,000 acres of land at their disposal, along with an alpine slide and a mountain tram for prime sightseeing. There are also adaptive ski options. Horse-drawn sleigh rides are available during the winter. Lutsen is not just popular in the winter, although that’s its prime season; hiking, horseback riding, mountain biking, rock climbing, and kayaking and canoeing are all offered in the summer, when the lush greenery attracts skiers and non-skiers alike.
HISTORY AND SCENERY COMBINED
Near Schroeder, you’ll see a sign pointing the way to Father Baraga’s Cross. Father Baraga was a Slovenian priest who took on the arduous task of ministering to a number of Ojibwe settlements in Minnesota, Wisconsin, and Michigan, often traveling by snowshoe or canoe. After surviving a devastating storm in his canoe when it was tossed by the wind into the mouth of the Cross River, Father Baraga erected a wooden cross in thanks, which was later replaced with the granite cross that stands there today. A visit to the site in inclement weather gives you some idea what Father Baraga faced and why he was so thankful to have survived.
FATHER BARAGA’S CROSS
TOURS North Shore Scenic Cruises (218-464-6162; northshoresceniccruises.com), MN 61, Beaver Bay at the Silver Bay Marina. North Shore Scenic Cruises offers Lake Superior sightseeing and history boat tours as well as private cruises and special event outings.
Lodging
There is a seemingly endless supply of lodging along the North Shore from Duluth to Lutsen, from small mom-and-pop motels to bed-and-breakfasts to large, deluxe resorts. But in spite of the number of accommodations you see, they do book up during prime seasons (winter for the Lutsen area, summer along the North Shore in general), so plan ahead.
BED-AND-BREAKFASTS
Northern Rail Traincar Inn (218-834-0955 or 1-877-834-0955; northernrail.net), 1730 County Route 3, Two Harbors. It’s not false advertising—this is a bed-and-breakfast built out of actual train cars. The cars have been developed into surprisingly tasteful and comfortable suites. Guests check in at the “depot” before arriving at one of the 18 suites (all are themed, including north woods, Victorian, and safari themes). The property provides guests with private baths, continental breakfast, trail access, snowshoe rental, and summer bonfires, all tucked into a quiet wooded area. Rates start at $109. Packages are available.
Lighthouse Bed & Breakfast (218-834-4898 or 1-888-832-5606; lighthousebb.org), 1 Lighthouse Point, Two Harbors. Built in 1892, the Lighthouse is on the National Register of Historic Places; proceeds from guests contribute to the Lighthouse’s ongoing restoration. There are four rooms with shared bath, all with views of Lake Superior. A full Scandinavian breakfast is served daily. Children accepted with prior arrangements. Rates start at $165.
Baptism River Inn (218-353-0707 or 1-877-353-0707; baptismriverinn.com), 6125 MN 1, Silver Bay. Cozy doesn’t do justice to this charming three-bedroom bed-and-breakfast. Each room has a private bath; all have the rustic qualities of a log cabin. As it’s situated on the Baptism River, guests have easy access to hiking and skiing. Children ages 11 and older accepted. Rates start at $149.
NORTHERN RAIL TRAINCAR INN
CABINS
Temperance Landing (1-877-723-6426; bluefinbay.com/temperance-landing), Temperance Trail, Schroeder. Comprised of 3,000-square-foot log cabins, Temperance Landing is a Lake Superior luxury option. Each cabin has at least three bedrooms and baths; all come with fireplaces (some gas, some wood burning), fully equipped kitchens, access to hiking trails and canoe/kayak launch areas, and a fully restored classic Finnish sauna. Rates start at $395.
RESORTS AND LODGES
Superior Shores Resort & Conference Center (218-834-5671 or 1-800-242-1988; superiorshores.com), 1521 Superior Shores Drive, Two Harbors. This large resort complex has all the bells and whistles: pebbled beach on Lake Superior; lodge rooms or lakehomes; indoor and outdoor pools; easy access to hiking, cross-country skiing, and snowmobiling trails; and close proximity to an 18-hole golf course. Rates start at $89. Weekend discounts and packages are available.
Cascade Lodge (218-387-1112 or 1-800-322-9543; cascadelodgemn.com), 3719 W. MN 61, Lutsen. The best of both worlds, Cascade Lodge is nestled into Cascade River State Park, with access to several trails and stellar views of Lake Superior. Accommodations vary from motel rooms and lodge rooms to cabins and two private homes. Stop at the restaurant for dinner (see Where to Eat). Rates start at $79. Specials and packages are available.
Solbakken Resort (218-663-7566 or 1-800-435-3950; solbakkenresort.com), 4874 W. MN 61, Lutsen. Open mid-Apr.–Nov. A combination resort with motel rooms, lodge rooms, and lakeshore cabins and homes, Solbakken offers direct access to cross-country ski trails. Rates start at $95.
Bluefin Bay on Lake Superior (218-663-3346 or 1-800-258-3346; bluefinbay.com), 7192 W. MN 61, Tofte. Studios and condominium units are available for rental at this resort right on Lake Superior. The property boasts year-round indoor and outdoor pools, dining at the Bluefin Grille (see Where to Eat), and a full-service spa, Waves of Superior. Rates start at $79. Packages are available.
Caribou Highlands Lodge (218-663-7241 or 1-800-642-6036; caribouhighlands.com), 371 Ski Hill Road, Lutsen. A year-round resort nestled into Sawtooth Mountain in Lutsen, Caribou Highlands offers lodge rooms, town homes and condos, and Poplar Ridge homes, log cabins with multiple bedrooms and fireplaces. During the winter, the property offers ski-in, ski-out access to Lutsen Mountains. There is a restaurant and taproom at the lodge, as well as indoor and outdoor pools, saunas, and tennis courts. Other amenities include evening bonfires, massage, and Wi-Fi. During the summer, the Mountain Kids Camp offers half- or full-day themed camp programs for kids ages 5–12. Rates start at $92. Packages are available.
Where to Eat
DINING OUT
Bluefin Grille (218-663-6200; bluefinbay.com/dine/Bluefin-grille), 7192 W. MN 61, Tofte. Open daily for all three meals. Located at the Bluefin Bay resort (see Lodging), Bluefin Grille serves American food with an emphasis on local, particularly Lake Superior seafood when available. Expensive/very expensive.
Cascade Lodge (218-387-1112 or 1-800-322-9543; cascadelodgemn.com), 3719 W. MN 61, Lutsen. Open daily for all three meals. The restaurant at Cascade Lodge (see Lodging) provides hearty American fare in a casual, North Shore-themed setting. Moderate.
EATING OUT
Betty’s Pies (218-834-3367 or 1-877-269-7494; bettyspies.com), 1633 MN 61, Two Harbors. Open daily for all three meals. Local legend Betty’s Pies has everything, from attitude (“Pies just like Mom used to make, before she took up bingo, cigarettes & beer”) to truly delectable pies. A limited short-order menu includes broasted chicken, pasties, burgers, sandwiches, salads, and “pie shakes.” But it’s the pies that will bring you back again and again. Inexpensive.
GOOSEBERRY FALLS
Blackwoods Bar & Grill (218-834-3846; blackwoods.com), 612 7th Avenue, Two Harbors. Open daily for lunch and dinner. Hearty bar-and-grill/comfort food offerings, including a wild rice melt, pot roast, chicken pot pie, and build-your-own mac and cheese, as well as steak and ribs. Moderate.
Do North Pizza (218-834-3555; donorthpizza.com), 15 Waterfront Drive, Two Harbors. Open Wed.–Sun. for dinner. Extensive pizza options, along with chicken drummies and strips, garlic cheese bread, and mozzarella sticks. Moderate.
Judy’s Cafe (218-834-4802; facebook.com/judyscafemn), 623 7th Avenue, Two Harbors. Open daily for breakfast and lunch, Mon.–Sat. for early dinner. A classic small-town café, with plenty of sandwiches as well as patty melts and liver and onions. Inexpensive.
Rustic Inn Café (218-834-2488; rusticinn.cafe), 2773 MN 61, Castle Danger. Open daily for all three meals. Breakfast is served all day, but there are separate lunch and dinner menus, which include burgers, sandwiches, and slow-roasted pork and beef. Moderate.
Vanilla Bean Restaurant (218-834-3714; thevanillabean.com), 812 7th Avenue, Two Harbors. Open daily for breakfast and lunch. Updated diner food with an emphasis on local, including walleye eggs Benedict and cranberry wild rice pancakes for breakfast, and smoked fish spread and Iron Range pasties for lunch. Inexpensive/moderate.
Selective Shopping
MN 61 has about as many small shops along the drive as it does small restaurants and cafés. As winter sports have picked up traffic farther north, many of these shops stay open year-round.
Playing with Yarn (1-877-693-2221; playingwithyarn.com), 276 Scenic Drive, Knife River. Open Wed.–Mon. This small but packed yarn shop, located right on the shores of Lake Superior, offers everything needed for the fiber enthusiast. Even better if you’re a dog lover—the owner’s dogs reside in the house next door and can be introduced upon request.
Russ Kendall’s Smoke House (218-834-5995; facebook.com/RussKendalls), 149 Scenic Drive, Knife River. Open daily. As the name suggests, this is a great spot for smoked items, especially the fish—lake trout, herring, salmon. Gifts are also available.
Northwoods Pioneer Gallery & Gifts (218-834-4175; pioneercrafts.com), 2821 MN 61, Two Harbors. Open daily mid-May–mid-Oct.; Fri.–Sun. from mid-Oct.–Dec.; closed Jan.–Feb.; Sat. and Sun. from Mar.–mid-May. Art and crafts items made by local artisans.
Great! Lakes Candy Kitchen (218-834-2121; greatlakescandy.com), 223 Scenic Drive. Open daily from Apr. 27–Dec. 23. Purveyors of handmade candies, produced in small batches using traditional techniques using high-quality chocolate, butter, and cream.
Special Events
March: St. Urho’s Day (218-353-0300; friendsoffinland.org/st-urhos-day), 7344 MN 1, Finland. Possibly one of the oddest historical festivals in Minnesota. Located in Finland, a tiny town just north of Silver Bay, St. Urho is celebrated each year in mid-March with a four-day festival. What’s odd is that there is no St. Urho; the people of Finland (the city in Minnesota, not the country) created him to have something to celebrate. Ostensibly he drove the grasshoppers out of Finland (the country) in an act similar to St. Patrick driving the snakes out of Ireland. Regardless of veracity, the festival goes on; even in the country of Finland, St. Urho has a pub named after him.
September: North Shore Inline Marathon/Half-Marathon (218-723-1503; northshoreinline.com). Held in mid-September, the inline marathon begins in Two Harbors and flies 26.2 miles along Scenic Highway 61 (MN 61), ending at the Duluth Entertainment Convention Center. The half marathon begins at the 13.1-mile point, ending at the same destination. Participants must be 13 and older; there is a kids’ sprint on Friday night.
November: Annual Edmund Fitzgerald Memorial Beacon Lighting (218-226-6372; mnhs.org/splitrock/activities/beacon-lighting), Split Rock Lighthouse, 3713 Split Rock Lighthouse Road, Two Harbors. On November 10, 1975, the freighter Edmund Fitzgerald sank in raging gales in Lake Superior; all 29 men onboard were lost. The somber anniversary, commemorated in the Gordon Lightfoot song “The Wreck of the Edmund Fitzgerald,” is marked each year with a ceremony at Split Rock Lighthouse. If you plan to visit, please dress appropriately, as the weather can be cold and windy; the Minnesota Historical Society recommends bringing a flashlight.
Master’s Bluegrass Festival (218-387-1272; northshoremusicassociation.com/bluegrass.php), Lutsen Resort. This annual festival takes place the first weekend in November, a perfect time to cozy up to the fireplace and listen to the masters of bluegrass.