BEMIDJI AREA

Bemidji (pronounced buh-MIDJ-ee) is not far from Itasca State Park, home to the Mississippi Headwaters, and Bemidji itself is the first city geographically on the Mississippi River. There are nearly 40 lakes within a 25-mile radius of Bemidji, so water sports are a major draw. But winter is popular, too, with snowmobiling, skiing (cross-country and downhill), ice fishing, and snowshoeing favored activities.

To See and Do

MUSEUMS AND COMMUNITY ARTWORK Bemidji Sculpture Walk (bemidjisculpture.com). On the lakefront and downtown, Bemidji. Open daily. Stop at the tourist information center to begin your tour of sculptures and murals that appear lakeside and into downtown.

Beltrami County History Center (218-444-3376; beltramihistory.org), 130 SW Minnesota Avenue, Bemidji. Open Wed.–Sat. Adults $5; senior citizens and students $4; children 12 and under $1; groups of 5 or more $3 per adult; historical society members free. The history center resides in the restored 1912 Great Northern Railway Depot, which was the last depot built by railroad baron James J. Hill. The building’s architecture itself is worth a visit, but the collection within is entertaining and enlightening, from Native American artifacts to a restored telegraph office. A separate research area offers historians access to archival materials.

Headwaters Science Center (218-444-4472; hscbemidji.org), 413 Beltrami Avenue, Bemidji. Open daily in the summer; Wed.–Mon. in the fall and winter. Visitors 12 and older $9; children under 2–11 $6; seniors 65 and older and military $8; HSC members free. Essentially a children’s science museum, the HSC offers a variety of hands-on activities, as well as a collection of live animals (snakes, turtles, salamanders) for kids to learn about and handle.

BELTRAMI COUNTY HISTORY CENTER

Watermark Art Center (218-444-7570; watermarkartcenter.org), 505 Bemidji Avenue, Bemidji. Open daily in summer; Mon.–Sat. in winter. National and regional artists in a variety of media, as well as ongoing education for all ages. The art center also sponsors a series of First Friday Art Walks, which showcase art and live performances both in the center and around Bemidji.

Paul Bunyan and Babe the Blue Ox, Bemidji lakefront, near the tourist information center. Open daily. A visit to Bemidji isn’t quite complete without a photo opportunity near the legendary Paul Bunyan statues. Besides, it’s a good starting point for visiting the Bemidji Sculpture Walk.

OTHER ATTRACTIONS Concordia Language Villages (1-800-222-4750; concordialanguagevillages.org), 8607 NE Thorsonveien, Bemidji. This renowned language school, headquartered in Moorhead, holds the majority of its classes and camps at an expansive site just outside Bemidji. The languages (including Arabic, Chinese, Danish, Finnish, French, German, Italian, Japanese, Korean, Norwegian, Portuguese, Russian, Spanish, and Swedish) are taught in villages created to resemble a town in the country of origin. Most of the villages in Bemidji are centered near Turtle Lake, but a few are about 10 miles north. Each village is separate from the other. Programs are offered for kids and adults, but even if you’re not planning on learning a foreign language, the lovingly re-created international villages are worth a stop for the beautiful sightseeing alone.

Green Space and Outdoor Activities

Not surprisingly, green space is abundant in the northern part of the state.

PARKS AND PARKWAYS Chippewa National Forest (218-335-8600; fs.usda.gov/chippewa), 200 NW Ash Avenue, Cass Lake. With more than 666,000 acres, Chippewa National Forest has ample opportunity for outdoor adventures. The forest has 160 miles of hiking trails and cross-country ski trails, 330 miles of snowmobiling trails, 23 developed campgrounds and 380 camping sites, and a sandy swimming beach. Three visitor centers have programs and information: Norway Beach, Cut Foot Sioux, and Edge of the Wilderness Discovery Center. For water fans, the forest holds two of Minnesota’s five biggest lakes, and there are nine canoe routes across various rivers and Leech Lake. (Note: Some of these routes are more treacherous than others; when planning a canoe trip, check with the Chippewa National Forest for recommendations based on your skill level.)

Edge of the Wilderness Scenic Byway (edgeofthewilderness.com). East of Bemidji is MN 38, which is the road for the Edge of the Wilderness Byway, a 47-mile roadway that runs from Grand Rapids to Effie. It showcases heavy forests and wetlands, with profusions of wildflowers in the warmer months followed by spectacular foliage colors in the fall. The route is open year-round, with the exception of the occasional snowstorm.

The byway goes through the Black Spruce/Tamarack Bog Habitat. Lining both sides of the road, this habitat was formed 16,000 years ago when the last of the glaciers still existed. Spruce and tamarack tower over the road, and if you were to wander into the bog, you’d find the ground to be wet and spongy.

THE LOST 40 SCIENTIFIC AND NATURAL AREA

Near the junction of MN 1 and US 71 is this historical scientific and natural area (SNA). The Lost 40 (dnr.state.mn.us/snas/detail.html?id=sna01063), which is actually 144 acres, is a tract of land that was accidentally misidentified as a lake by a surveyor during the logging boom time. Consequently, it remained untouched when forests around it were decimated. There are pine trees that are more than 300 years old in the Lost 40, and the wildflowers are prolific in the late spring. A 1-mile hiking trail guides you through this special and beautiful untouched wilderness.

For an adventurous detour—and a glimpse into a way of life long gone—turn right on County Route 60 and drive several miles to Blue Water Lake Road, where you’ll find a parking lot for the Trout Lake–Joyce Estate Hiking Trail. From the trailhead, the hike to the Joyce Estate is about 6 miles round-trip. The Joyce Estate was built on the shores of Trout Lake between 1917 and 1935 by David Joyce, whose fortunes were made in the logging industry. He built a massive complex out of native stone and lumber, with 40 buildings, a seaplane hangar, nine-hole golf course, and clubhouse. The caretaker’s complex itself had 17 buildings. It’s a fascinating place to explore how the wealthy lived decades ago in the woods.

Another facet of the area’s history is on display at the Camp Rabideau National Historic Landmark, one of the best preserved Civilian Conservation Corps projects in the country. You can take a guided tour, or you can go on your own; interpretive displays with detailed information are present throughout.

Itasca State Park/Mississippi Headwaters (218-699-7251; dnr.state.mn.us/state_parks/Itasca/index.html), 36750 Main Park Drive, Park Rapids. Open daily. This is Minnesota’s oldest state park, and a large one (although not the largest) at 32,000 acres. It’s also well known for being the starting point of the Mississippi River, and the point at which you easily walk across the river. But Itasca State Park has several other spots to visit, including a 500-year-old Native American cemetery and Wegmann’s Cabin, a pioneer artifact. Pines inhabit the Wilderness Sanctuary, a 2,000-acre stand of white and red pines, some upward of 300 years old. There are 49 miles of hiking trails and 16 miles of paved biking trails (bike rental is available within the park, as are boat and canoe rentals). Plan ahead if you’d like to stay at Douglas Lodge (see Lodging), located right within the park.

Lake Bemidji State Park (218-308-2300; dnr.state.mn.us/state_parks/lake_bemidji/index.html), 3401 NE State Park Road, Bemidji. Open daily year-round. It may not have the Mississippi Headwaters, but Lake Bemidji State Park is a worthy stop, with acres of forest, access to Lake Bemidji for boating and fishing, a paved bike trail, hiking trails that run along the lake, and scores for birds to watch.

Big Bog State Recreation Area (218-647-8592; dnr.state.mn.us/state_parks/big_bog/index.html), 55716 NE MN 72, Waskish. Open daily year-round. Opened in 2005, this recreation area provides a way for visitors to explore the ecology of a bog without overly disturbing it. A mile-long boardwalk was installed through the bog, so visitors can go deep into the natural area without damaging the plant life. Signs posted frequently along the way explain the significance of the bog and point out different aspects of plants and wildlife that can be viewed from the walk.

SKIING AND WINTER SPORTS Buena Vista Ski Village (218-243-2231 or 1-800-777-7958; bvskiarea.com), 19600 NW Irvine Avenue, Bemidji. Open for winter sports mid-Nov.–Mar., depending on weather. The mountains may not be the highest, but Buena Vista offers beautiful scenery to enjoy with its 16 runs. Cross-country skiing, tubing, snowboarding, and horse-drawn sleigh rides are all offered while there’s snow. In the summer, the ski resort transforms into Buena Vista Ranch, a logging village and visitor center. Activities include covered wagon tours, horsemanship training clinics, and fall foliage rides. Reservations are recommended; call for information.

Lodging

BED-AND-BREAKFASTS Lake Bemidji Bed and Breakfast (218-556-8815; lakebemidjibandb.com), 915 Lake Boulevard NE, Bemidji. This bed-and-breakfast, located near Lake Bemidji, offers three rooms, each with private bath. All rooms have upgraded bed coverings and bathrobes, and full breakfast is included, as is an early-evening glass of wine. A common great room serves as the breakfast point, with lovely views of the lake, and the backyard has a fire pit and double hammock for guest relaxation. The bed-and-breakfast is on the Paul Bunyan Trail, a 17-mile paved trail open for bikes and inline skates. Children 10 and older are welcome. Rates start at $125. Packages are available.

HOTELS Hampton Inn (218-751-3600; hamptoninn3.hilton.com), 1019 S. Paul Bunyan Drive, Bemidji. The Hampton Inn is right on Lake Bemidji, a short walk from the tourist information center and the beginning of the Bemidji Sculpture Walk. Full breakfast is included in the rates, and there’s an indoor pool. The hotel also has a Green Mill pizza restaurant (see Where to Eat) for lunch and dinner. Rates start at $126.

AmericInn Motel & Suites (218-751-3000; wyndhamhotels.com), 1200 NW Paul Bunyan Drive, Bemidji. Near the Paul Bunyan Mall, the AmericInn offers 59 units, 26 of which are suites. The property has an indoor pool, whirlpool, and sauna, and the rates include full breakfast. Rates start at $95.

Holiday Inn Express (218-751-2487; ichotelsgroup.com), 2422 NW Ridgeway Avenue, Bemidji. A basic but comfortable Holiday Inn, near the Paul Bunyan Mall. Most rooms have two queen beds, while a few upgraded rooms have king beds and Jacuzzi baths. Full breakfast is provided. Expensive.

LODGES AND RESORTS Ruttger’s Birchmont Lodge (218-444-3463 or 1-888-788-8437; ruttgersbemidji.com), 7598 Bemidji Road NE, Bemidji. A family resort that’s something of a tradition on Lake Bemidji, Ruttger’s offers both lodge and cabin accommodations. The Cedar Lodge offers the most luxurious suites, with lakefront setting and fireplaces, while the Main Lodge offers the more economical rooms. Cedar Lodge is open year-round, while the Main Lodge is open only in the summer. In addition, there are 22 cottages (mostly open only mid-May–Labor Day) and seven villas (open year-round), which are larger than the cottages. The resort has a restaurant and bar open during the summer months. There is an indoor pool and hot tub, open all year, and boat and bike rental during the summer. A large sandy beach makes for a great summer resting spot, and during the summer Ruttger’s offers a supervised kids’ program for children ages 4–12. Rates start at $75.

Douglas Lodge (218-266-2114; stayatmnparks.com), 36750 Main Park Drive, Itasca State Park. This gorgeous lodge was built in 1905 with timber from Itasca State Park and houses five guest rooms, a dining room, and a lounge. There is also a clubhouse with rooms available, as well as several cabins. Common areas center around a large stone fireplace, and rocking chairs rest on the spacious porch. It’s an easy walk down to the fishing pier and hiking trails. Campgrounds can be reserved as well. Rates start at $105.

Where to Eat

As Bemidji has grown, thanks to the university, county government, and the local health-care system, the restaurant scene has not quite kept pace. There are plenty of chains to choose from—including Applebee’s, Ground Round, Perkins, Country Kitchen, Bonanza, McDonald’s, Burger King, Pizza Hut, Subway, and Quizno’s—but there are also some restaurants without a major chain behind them that offer good dining.

EATING OUT Raphael’s Bakery Café (218-444-2867; raphaelsbakery.com), 319 Bemidji Avenue NW, Bemidji. Open Mon.–Sat. for breakfast and lunch. The quintessential small-town bakery and café, Raphael’s serves delicious breakfasts and lunches, and sells baked goods to go. The menu may be limited (salads, sandwiches, soups), but the baked goods are pleasingly fresh, and the soups are homemade and worth buying extra for take-out. Inexpensive.

Brigid’s Cross (218-444-0567; facebook.com/brigidscrossirishpub), 317 Beltrami Avenue NW, Bemidji. Open Mon.–Sat. for lunch and dinner. This cheerful Irish pub offers the usual suspects (fish-and-chips, ploughman’s lunch, shepherd’s pie) and some not-so-Irish variations (macaroni and cheese bites, mini burger basket). The food is hearty, a full bar is available, and a variety of events is offered, from open mike to trivia contests to live music. Moderate.

Keg n’ Cork (218-444-7600; kegncorkbemidji.com), 310 Beltrami Avenue NW, Bemidji. Open Mon.–Sat. for lunch and dinner. A friendly neighborhood bar and grill with a significant burger and sandwich menu. The locals love it, so you know it’s good. Moderate.

Dave’s Pizza (218-751-3225; davespizza.biz), 422 15th Street NW, Bemidji. Open daily for dinner. It’s not much to look at, but Dave’s has been meeting pizza lovers’ needs for decades. Moderate.

TUTTO BENE

Minnesota Nice Café (218-444-6656; minnesotanicecafe.com), 315 Irvine Avenue NW, Bemidji. Open daily for breakfast and lunch. As their sign says, “Homemade meals like Grandma used to make.” An enormous breakfast menu with pretty much anything anyone could ever want, along with Uff Dah Burgers and “Nice” lunch sandwiches and baskets. Inexpensive.

Lucky Dogs (218-444-0288; luckydogsbemidji.com), 201 Beltrami Avenue NW, Bemidji. Open daily for lunch and early dinner, and late nights Fri.–Sat. Apr.–Oct. Lucky Dogs takes the hot dog concept to entirely new levels. Try the Bronco, with peanut butter, BBQ sauce, bacon, pineapple, pepperoncini, onion, and cilantro, or go classic with the Backseat Driver: brown mustard, sauerkraut, and onions. The eatery uses Nathan’s Dogs as its usual base, but you can (and should) try the locally made Stittsworth’s brat instead, or there are also veggie dogs. A few beers available. Inexpensive.

Wild Hare Bistro and Coffee House (218-444-5282; wildharebistro.com), 523 Minnesota Avenue NW, Bemidji. Open daily for breakfast and lunch. A coffee shop with a much better than average food menu that includes creative items like the Wild Rice Salad Platter or the Burrito Francais with Swiss, sautéed mushrooms, and scallions. Inexpensive/moderate.

Green Mill Restaurant (218-444-1875; greenmill.com), 1025 Paul Bunyan Drive NW, Bemidji. Open daily for lunch and dinner. Yes, it’s a chain, but it’s also got a prime location at the Hampton Inn (see Lodging), with great views of Lake Bemidji. Plus the pizza is excellent. Moderate.

Bemidji Brewing (218-444-7011; bemidjibeer.com), 211 America Avenue NW, Bemidji. Open daily for lunch and dinner. A craft brewery with taproom offering several varieties, including IPAs, porters, pilsners, sours, and pale ales, among others. The brewery also has a kitchen on-site with lots of beer-friendly foods: Pizza, burgers, gyros, and appetizers, and a kids’ menu

LUCKY DOGS

Entertainment

Paul Bunyan Playhouse (218-751-7270; thechieftheater.com), 314 Beltrami Avenue, Bemidji. With more than 55 years of productions, this is one of the country’s longest continuously operating summer stock theaters and is currently located in the historic former Chief Movie Theater. The Paul Bunyan Playhouse uses both national professional actors as well as locals for its summer season. Veterans of the playhouse have gone on to professional theater careers in the Twin Cities.

Selective Shopping

Paul Bunyan Mall (218-751-3195; paulbunyanmall.com), 1401 Paul Bunyan Drive NW, Bemidji. Open daily. The Paul Bunyan Mall is anchored by JC Penney; other stores include Foot Locker, Claire’s, Bath & Body Works, and General Nutrition Center.

Bemidji Woolen Mills (1-888-751-5166; bemidjiwoolen mills.com), 301 Irvine Avenue NW, Bemidji. Open daily. Manufacturer and retailer of woolen apparel, Woolen Mills’s products are high in quality; the store also carries Hudson’s Bay, Woolrich, and Dale of Norway wool clothing.

Stittsworth Meats (218-751-1320; stittsworthmeats.com), 722 Paul Bunyan Drive NW, Bemidji. Open daily. Local meat shop with high-quality products made on-site, including blueberry wild rice brats and sausages made with Bemidji Brewing.

Special Events

The northern lakes region isn’t short of festivals and events. Note: This list does not include an extensive, ongoing list of events that take place at Concordia Language Villages (see To See and Do). Check Concordia’s website for detailed information on their festivals and weekend events.

June: Chippewa Triathlon (chippewatriathlon.com), Cass Lake. The traditional triathlon elements of a run (5 miles) and bike ride (29 miles) are combined with a 14-mile canoe ride. Held annually in June.

July: Art in the Park (218-444-7570; watermarkartcenter.org), Lake Bemidji. This annual event, which has taken place for 40 years, showcases local and national artists, and offers food and live entertainment. Dates are scheduled for mid-July.

Woodcarver’s Festival (218-835-4949; blackduckmn.com), Blackduck. This annual festival has grown from its beginnings in 1983 to include woodcarvers from across the United States and Canada. Held the last Saturday in July, the outdoor festival (rain or shine) brings visitors from all over the region. Carvers exhibit their wares for purchase, and food is available for sale. Look for the Uffda Taco.