THIEF RIVER FALLS/RED RIVER VALLEY/DETROIT LAKES

In this region, the topography of Minnesota changes dramatically within a short distance, from flat agricultural areas to rolling wooded countryside dotted with lakes. Along the state’s edge, you’ll see miles of sunflowers, soybeans, and beets; veer east, and the views are pastoral. There’s history and nature in abundance.

To See and Do

GAMING Shooting Star Casino (starcasino.com), 777 Casino Road, Mahnomen. Open 24/7. North of Detroit Lakes is this casino, run by the White Earth Band of Ojibwe Indians. Large and well run, the casino has slots, blackjack, bingo, and poker, as well as childcare and a kids’ arcade. Live concerts are offered regularly in the casino’s main stage, and there is dining in four venues. A hotel is attached to the casino (see Lodging).

MUSEUMS AND HISTORIC SITES Peder Engelstad Pioneer Village (218-681-5767; visittrf.com/location/peder-engelstad-pioneer-village), 825 Oakland Park Road, Thief River Falls. Open daily Memorial Day–Labor Day. Adults $5; children under 12 free with paid adult. Like the Pioneer Village in Roseau (see To See and Do in the “Baudette/Roseau/Warroad” chapter), this is a collection of 19 historical buildings, each housing several artifacts from the early settler days of northwestern Minnesota. Buildings include a church, a school, log cabins, and a two-story Victorian house.

Heritage Village (218-791-5313; egfheritage.com), 219 20th Street NE, East Grand Forks. Open by appointment. Festivals and events open to the public are held frequently; call or check the website for details. A preserved historic village re-creating life in pioneer days, including a variety of farm implements.

Rourke Art Museum (218-236-8861; therourke.org), 521 Main Avenue, Moorhead. Open Fri.–Sun. Admission is free. A small but thoughtful collection of permanent and traveling exhibits focused on contemporary American, Hispanic, African, and Native American art.

Comstock House (218-291-4211; mnhs.org/comstock), 506 8th Street S., Moorhead. Open Sat. and Sun. Memorial Day–Labor Day. Adults $7; seniors 65 and older, veterans, active military, and college students $6; children 5–17 $5; children under 5 and Minnesota Historical Society members free. The 1882 home of Solomon Comstock, who founded Moorhead State University. The home has been restored and includes original furnishings.

TOURS Arctic Cat (218-681-8558; visittrf.com/location/arctic-cat-inc), 600 Brooks Avenue, Thief River Falls. Open Mon.–Fri. A large manufacturer of snowmobiles and ATVs, Arctic Cat offers tours of its plant at 1 p.m. Call ahead for reservations.

THE STAVE CHURCH AT THE HJEMKOMST CENTER

Digi-Key (218-681-6674; digikey.com), 701 Brooks Avenue S., Thief River Falls. Open Mon.–Fri. This manufacturer of electrical components offers tours by appointment.

WINERIES Two Fools Vineyard (218-465-4655), 12501 240th Avenue SE, Plummer. Open Sat. and Sun. 12–3, Jun.–Oct. Thumbing their noses at those who say grapes can’t be grown in northern climates, Carol and LeRoy Stumpf grow grapes (among other fruits) and make wines such as pinot noir, chardonnay, and orange muscat.

Green Space and Outdoor Activities

Historical Riverwalk, Thief River Falls. More than 7 miles of trails wind through Thief River Falls along the Thief and Red Lake rivers. The trail is open for walking, biking, and cross-country skiing, and it passes through several city parks, some historical sites, and near the dam.

A MAN, A DREAM, AND A BOAT

The Hjemkomst Center is named after the replica Viking ship built by a local man who wanted to sail it to Norway. He completed the ship and took it on Lake Superior, but before he could journey farther, he died; family and friends rallied and sailed the ship to Norway in 1982. The ship is on display as a permanent exhibit, along with a Norwegian stave church replica and a historical Red River Valley exhibit. Don’t miss the center’s introductory film; although a bit on the sappy side, the actual footage taken during the ship’s voyage to Norway is amazing. Temporary exhibits are brought in on rotation, and the center sponsors several special events each year. Call or check the website for specific events.

Hjemkomst Center (218-299-5515; hjemkomstcenter.com), 202 1st Avenue N., Moorhead. Open daily. Adults 18–54 $10; seniors 55 and older and college students $9; youth 5–17 $8; children under 5 and museum members free. Admission is free every third Tues. 5–8.

THE HJEMKOMST CENTER

Agassiz National Wildlife Refuge (218-449-4115; fws.gov/refuge/agassiz), 22996 220th Street NE, Middle River. Open daily during daylight hours, May–Oct. The headquarters is open for questions and visitor assistance Mon.–Fri. 7:30–4, excluding federal holidays. Admission is free. This refuge has more than 60,000 acres encompassing a wide variety of environments—wetland, forest, and prairie—and is home to a diverse assortment of wildlife; bald eagles, ducks, geese, wolves, herons, moose, and deer are just a few of the animals residing here. Thereis a 4-mile self-guided habitat drive as well as a 0.5-mile hiking trail; a 100-foot observation tower with a 14-foot observation deck is available during non-snow times. Check in at headquarters to obtain the key for the tower.

Red River State Recreation Area (218-773-4950; dnr.state.mn.us/state_parks/red_river/index.html), 515 2nd Street NW, East Grand Forks. Open daily 8 a.m.–10 p.m. A state park permit is required for admission; a day pass is $7 per vehicle. One of the state’s newer recreation areas was created after the disastrous 1997 floods, which destroyed homes and farms along the river. More than 500 homes and buildings were removed from the area after the floodplain was reconfigured, and a 1,200-acre recreation area was created instead. Hiking and biking trails, fishing and boating access, and campsites are now available within easy access of both East Grand Forks and Grand Forks, North Dakota.

Tamarac National Wildlife Refuge (218-847-2641; fws.gov/midwest/tamarac), 35704 170th Street, Rochert. Open daily. No admission fee. Tamarac has 43,000 acres set aside for wildlife preservation. The visitor center, open weekdays 7:30–4 and weekends 10–5, has exhibits and a video presentation explaining what the refuge contains. Self-guided driving and hiking tours can lend views of bald eagle, deer, porcupine, and even the occasional black bear. In the winter, ice fishing, cross-country skiing, and snowshoeing are all available.

Lodging

AmericInn Lodge and Suites Thief River Falls (218-681-4411; wyndhamhotels.com), 1920 US 59 SE, Thief River Falls. This property has rooms and suites, some of the latter with fireplaces and whirlpools. There’s an indoor pool and a complimentary daily breakfast; for winter enthusiasts, the hotel offers cold-weather vehicle hookups. Rates start at $101.

C’mon Inn (218-681-3000 or 1-800-950-8111; cmoninn.com), 1586 US 59 SE, Thief River Falls. A small but comfortable hotel with 44 rooms, an indoor pool and hot tub, and daily continental breakfast. Rates start at $101.

Courtyard Moorhead (218-284-1000; marriott.com), 1080 28th Avenue S., Moorhead. The Courtyard, a Marriott property, was designed primarily for business travelers, so the rooms are well equipped with two phone lines, and higher-end desks and desk chairs. The hotel also has an indoor pool, and a restaurant on-site that is open for breakfast and dinner. Rates start at $123.

AmericInn Lodge and Suites Detroit Lakes (218-847-8795; americinn.com), 777 US 10 E., Detroit Lakes. This AmericInn has rooms and suites, the latter of which have fireplaces and Jacuzzis), and all rooms have HDTVs. The hotel has an indoor pool and includes a full breakfast daily. Cold-weather hookups are available, and there is access from the hotel to local snowmobile trails. Rates start at $101.

Best Western Premier: The Lodge on Lake Detroit (218-847-8439 or 1-800-780-7234; thelodgeonlakedetroit.com), 1200 E. Shore Drive, Detroit Lakes. This lakefront hotel, opened in 2006, boasts rooms that all face the lake; first-floor rooms have walkout patios, and most second- and third-floor rooms have private balconies. The rooms are nicely appointed, all coming with HDTV and free Internet access, and are the most luxurious in the area. Suites have additional features, such as gas fireplaces, full kitchens, or aromatherapy whirlpool tubs. There’s a sandy beach outside for the summer, and an indoor pool and hot tub for inclement weather. A full-service spa is on-site. Full breakfast is served daily, and the lounge offers drinks and appetizers in the evening, but other meals are not provided. Rates start at $110. Packages are available.

Holiday Inn Lakeside (218-847-2121 or 1-877-251-9348; dlinn.com), 1155 US 10 E., Detroit Lakes. A lakeside property, the Holiday Inn has a sandy beach, as well as an indoor pool, whirlpool, and sauna. The rooms are standard Holiday Inn issue, but there is a full-service restaurant on-site serving three meals daily. Rates start at $112.

Shooting Star Casino Hotel and RV Park (218-935-2711 or 1-800-453-7827; starcasino.com), 777 Casino Road, Mahnomen. Attached to the casino (see To See and Do) is a hotel with a range of accommodation options, from standard rooms to deluxe suites. An on-site spa offers massage, body wraps, facials, and mani/pedis. There’s an indoor pool and hot tub, and room service from the casino’s restaurants is available. Behind the hotel is an RV park with water, sewer, and electricity hookups. Rates start at $79.

Where to Eat

DINING OUT The Blue Moose Bar and Grill (218-773-6516; thebluemoose.net), 507 2nd Street NW, East Grand Forks. Open daily for lunch and dinner, Sun. for breakfast. Perhaps one of the few restaurants in history to have crossed a river, the Blue Moose did so following the Red River flooding in 1999. Now housed on the river in a comfortable lodge setting, this restaurant serves hearty steaks and sandwiches in huge portions. Expensive.

The Fireside (218-847-8192; firesidedl.com), 1462 East Shore Drive, Detroit Lakes. Open daily for dinner, Memorial Day–Sept.; Mon.–Sat. for dinner, Oct.–May. Call for details. One of the best choices for an upscale dining experience, the Fireside serves old-fashioned supper-club foods with a contemporary flair. Steaks are available in all sizes, and walleye comes in multiple iterations. The grilled duck breast is a good bet if you’re not in a steak or seafood mood. Expensive.

EATING OUT Johnnie’s Café (218-681-0436), 304 N. Main Avenue, Thief River Falls. Open Mon.–Fri. for breakfast and lunch. A classic small-town café popular with the locals, Johnnie’s breakfasts are primarily eggs and pancakes, but they’re plentiful and good (be sure to get the hash browns). Lunch is classic sandwiches (Reuben, grilled cheese) and burgers. Nothing fancy, but done well. Inexpensive.

Black Cat Sports Bar and Grill (218-681-8910; facebook.com/Black-Cat-Sports-Bar-and-Grill-113099832060025), 1080 MN 32 S., Thief River Falls. Open daily for lunch and dinner. This is a sports bar with a snowmobiling theme, thanks to the memorabilia on display from local manufacturer Arctic Cat. Burgers, sandwiches, pizzas, and a handful of bigger dinners, including walleye and sirloin plates. Inexpensive.

Spitfire Bar and Grill (218-844-3473; spitfirebarandgrill.com), 1100 N. Shore Drive, Detroit Lakes. Open daily for lunch and dinner, Sat.–Sun. for brunch. A cheerful bar and grill with wood-fired steaks, smoked meats, and spit-roasted chicken, as well as burgers and pasta. Moderate.

WE FEST

WE Fest (1-844-227-8075; wefest.com), 25526 County Route 22, Detroit Lakes. A three-day celebration of country music held annually since 1983, the festival is outdoors, rain or shine, in early August and attracts more than 50,000 people from around the country. The festival is sited at the Soo Pass Ranch on US 59, southeast of Detroit Lakes. Tickets are sold at varying levels, from general admission and reserved lawn seats to reserved box seats to a VIP experience, with prices for the three days ranging from $110 to $1,050. Many attendees return year after year, and an entire culture has built up at this festival, with some visitors setting up stores or “cafes” where they sell grilled foods and beverages off-limits to drinkers under 21. Campsites are available, but reserve well in advance—this is a very popular option for WE Fest attendees. Recent performers include Keith Urban, Brooks & Dunn, LeAnn Rimes, and Chris Stapleton.

Note: While children are not prohibited, WE Fest tends to be an adult event; campers frequently bring in large quantities of alcohol to enjoy, and not all of the entertainment is family-friendly.

Zorbaz on the Lake (218-847-5305; zorbaz.com), 402 W. Lake Drive, Detroit Lakes. Open daily for lunch and dinner. A beach bar with Mexican food, pizza, pasta, and plenty of beer. A dock is provided for diners arriving by boat. Moderate.

Shooting Star Casino (218-935-2711 or 1-800-453-7827; starcasino.com), 777 Casino Road, Mahnomen. This casino, north of Detroit Lakes, offers four restaurants from sit-down to casual quick food, including a buffet that’s plentiful. Moderate.

Special Events

May: Festival of Birds (218-847-9202 or 1-800-542-3992; visitdetroitlakes.com), Detroit Lakes. A basic event fee of $20 for the full festival or $12 per day is required, plus fees ranging from $5 to $55 for the individual events. This annual event, held in May, is for serious birders. The Detroit Lakes area is home to more than 200 kinds of birds, and the festival provides birdwatchers with three days of guided tours, presentations by experts, early-morning and evening field trips, workshops, and a dinner in the forest.

June: Scandinavian Hjemkomst & Midwest Viking Festival (218-299-5452; hjemkomstcenter.com), Hjemkomst Center, 202 1st Avenue N., Moorhead. Adult pass is $15; teens and senior citizens $10; and free for children. Held each year in late June, the festival is all things Scandinavian—children’s story hours, a midsummer’s fest picnic, Nordic marketplace, Viking village, a banquet, dance and music performances and lessons, art exhibits, and food and craft sales.

August: Barnesville Potato Days (218-354-2888; potatodays.com), Barnesville. As you might expect from the theme of this festival, Barnesville is a major potato producer, and this annual festival, held the last weekend in August, reflects that heritage. This festival draws more than 14,000 people each year due to its good-natured view of potato activities, including mashed potato wrestling, mashed potato sculpting, potato peeling and mashed potato eating contests, and potato car races. There’s also a Miss Tater Tot Pageant, a 5K/10K race, softball, and a demolition derby. Mashed potatoes, lefse (a Scandinavian potato-based pastry), and French fries are readily available, as is—oddly—chocolate.

Heritage Days Festival (egfheritage.com), N. MN 220 and 20th Street NE, East Grand Forks. Admission $5; free for active duty and reserve military members and families, and children under 12 with a paid adult. An annual festival held in late August at the Heritage Village, Heritage Days takes visitors back in time to the beginning of the last century with blacksmith demonstrations, threshing, broom making, and a tractor pull. A parade and bountiful food round out the celebration.

September: Rollag Western Minnesota Steam Threshers Reunion (218-238-5407; rollag.com), 27512 102nd Avenue, Rawley. Labor Day weekend. Daily tickets are $14 for ages 15 and older, 14 and under free. Season pass available for $20. This popular event is spread out over 200 acres and includes demonstrations of various generations of farm power, including horse-, gas-, and steam-powered equipment. Food and craft demonstrations are held daily, as are train (full-sized and miniature) rides, merry-go-round rides, and a parade.