The upper St. Croix Valley, from Marine on St. Croix up toward Hinckley, is full of natural beauty, from rivers to woodlands to prairies to glacial trails, and is a park lover’s dream region. Some of Minnesota’s most beautiful state parks are in this area, running along the river and offering nearly every kind of recreational opportunity, including swimming, canoeing, hiking, camping, horseback riding, cross-country skiing, and snowshoeing. The little village of Marine on St. Croix is peaceful and picturesque, and the river town of Taylors Falls has an area (the Angel Hill District) that could have been lifted right out of a New England portrait. Scandinavian culture is alive and well in Scandia and in the series of little towns known as Little Sweden, and the region’s popularity with artists is demonstrated in Franconia.
To See and Do
Inland from the river, in an area heavily populated with lakes and farmland, is a part of the state known as America’s Little Sweden. A series of small towns—including Chisago City, Lindstrom, and Center City—settled by Swedish (and other Scandinavian) immigrants, Little Sweden is a place you can still hear faint traces of Swedish accents in the residents and are likely to see store and street signs in both English and Swedish. Most of these communities have active relationships with sister cities in Sweden, and the food and culture still strongly reflect that ancestry.
THE FOLSOM HOUSE
VILHELM MOBERG
Vilhelm Moberg, a Swedish author and historian, was best known for The Emigrant novels, fictional accounts of a Swedish family’s journey to Chisago County to build a new life against harsh odds. Moberg spent time in this true-life Swedish American community in 1948 to research his series, and they have not forgotten him. Chisago City has Vilhelm Moberg Park, which includes a statue of Moberg and his bicycle, which he was famous for riding about the town. Lindstrom has a statue of Karl Oskar and Kristina, a fictional couple featured in The Emigrant series (in fact, they’re also represented on Lindstrom’s city logo), and south of Lindstrom is Kichi-Saga Park, the site of Nya Duvemåla, the house Moberg used as a model for Karl Oskar and Kristina’s fictional home. A boulder in front of the house was donated by Volvo from Åseda, Sweden. Today, Karl Oskar Days are celebrated every summer (see Special Events).
THE KARL OSKAR HOUSE
MUSEUMS AND HISTORIC SITES Chisago County History Center (651-257-9585; chisagocountyhistory.org), 12795 Lake Boulevard, Lindstrom. This county historical society is caretaker to several historical properties, and visits can be arranged by contacting the center. The society itself recently opened its own museum in Chisago City, which is open Mon., Tues., and Thurs.–Sat. in the summer and Mon., Tues., Fri., and Sat. in the winter. The Moody Round Barn, Gustaf Anderson House, and the Delmore-Fransen Log House are part of the collection, as well as the Polish Shtetl House, a replica built and used during the filming of the Coen brothers’ film A Serious Man.
Chisago Lake Evangelical Lutheran Church (651-257-6300; facebook.com/chisagolakelutheran), 1 Summit Avenue, Center City. This is the oldest continuously operating church in the area. It opened in 1854 and has been in its current building since 1889.
Center City Historic District, Summit Avenue, Center City. Original homes of the Swedish pioneers can be seen along Summit Avenue, which has numerous homes of first- and second-generation families, built in period style.
Folsom House (651-465-3125; mnhs.org/folsomhouse), 272 W. Government Street, Taylors Falls. Open Fri.–Sun., Memorial Day weekend–mid-Oct. Adults $6; seniors 65 and older, active military members and veterans, and college students $5; children 5–17 $4; children under 5 and Minnesota Historical Society members free. This charming home looks like it was plucked out of a New England landscape, along with several of its neighbors, and replanted in the Angel Hill District of Taylors Falls. Home of a lumber baron and state senator, the Folsom House gives a view of Minnesota’s early days—and of the St. Croix River. Check the website for events; the house has hosted traveling theater groups performing Chekhov dramas on-site.
Angel Hill District, Taylors Falls. Just up the hill from the Folsom House is a historic residential district known as Angel Hill. Many of Taylors Falls’s early wealthy settlers built here, and the homes have been beautifully maintained. A stroll before or after a Folsom House tour will give visitors a strong sense of the historical roots of the area.
Stone House Museum (651-433-3636; facebook.com/Stone-House-Museum), 241 5th Street, Marine on St. Croix. Open Sat. and Sun. Memorial Day–Labor Day. Admission is free, but donations are requested. This historic Scandinavian site is tucked into the small, picturesque town of Marine on St. Croix. The Stone House, aptly named for its Scandinavian stone architecture, was originally the town meetinghouse. Today it’s a repository for artifacts and photographs documenting the Scandinavian settlers who arrived in the early 19th century.
THE GROUNDS AT GAMMELGÅRDEN
Gammelgården (651-433-5053; gammelgardenmuseum.org), 20880 Olinda Trail N., Scandia. The historic log buildings are open Fri–Sun. from May 1–mid-Oct.; the main exhibit space and gift shop are open daily May–Dec. Special events are offered throughout the year. Adults $7; children under 12 free. Gammelgården is a living-history museum paying tribute to the Scandinavian roots of the region. Several original immigrant homes and other buildings, including a church, have been restored on 11 acres of farmland. The site is open for public tours during the summer, but year-round the museum offers a vast array of special events and classes (see website for details), including music festivals, sausage-making classes, and an annual Midsommar Dag (Midsummer Day) celebration (see Special Events). On a sunny summer day, it’s worth a visit just to stroll the beautiful grounds.
Hay Lake School and Erickson Log Home (651-433-4014; wchsmn.org/museums/hay-lake), 14020 195th Street N., Marine on St. Croix. Open Fri.–Sun. Jun.–Aug.; Sat. and Sun. May, Sept., and Oct. Adults $5; children 17 and under $1; Washington County Historical Society members free. If Gammelgården isn’t enough history for you, check out the nearby Hay Lake School Museum. Listed on the National Register of Historic Places, this museum is made up of a former schoolhouse and a log home built in the late 1800s.
WINERIES Winehaven Winery and Vineyard (651-257-1017; winehaven.com), 10020 Deer Garden Lane, Chisago City. Open daily. At this award-winning vineyard, take a tour, learn about viticulture, and sample the specialty: Stinger Honeywine (mead).
ANTIQUE SCANDINAVIAN CUPBOARD AT GAMMELGÅRDEN
OTHER ATTRACTIONS Lindstrom Water Tower, 12849 N. 1st Avenue, Lindstrom. It’s not just a water tower—it’s a coffeepot-shaped water tower with rosemaling designs welcoming visitors.
Green Space and Outdoor Activities
There are lakes in this area, but the primary source of outdoor recreation in the St. Croix Valley rests along the riverbanks.
CANOEING St. Croix National Scenic Riverway (715-483-2274; nps.gov/sacn). This is what the region is all about—252 miles of lush river scenery, starting in Wisconsin and including both the St. Croix River and the Namekagon River. The headquarters for information is the St. Croix Visitor Center in St. Croix Falls, Wisconsin, which is just across the river from Taylors Falls. Where the St. Croix ambles south along the Minnesota border, canoeing and camping are popular activities, but check with the visitor center before making plans—there are restrictions regarding use of campsites and boats to protect the river itself and the land on either side of it. In times of low rainfall, fire restrictions are strictly enforced.
THE HISTORIC LINDSTROM WATER TOWER
PARKS Franconia Sculpture Park (651-257-6668; franconia.org), US 8 and MN 95, Franconia. Open daily. Admission is free. The Franconia Sculpture Park is, intentionally, a work in progress. There are more than 120 exhibits in this rural exhibition area, and each year somewhere between 15 and 25 artists are invited to work and contribute art on a rotating basis. There are concerts in the summer, as well as hands-on classes for kids. The artworks are spread across a field with flat mowed paths; self-guided tours and guided tours are offered.
TAYLORS FALLS’ ANGEL HILL DISTRICT
VILHELM MOBERG STATUE
Wild River State Park (651-583-2125; dnr.state.mn.us/state_parks/wild_river/index.html), 39797 Park Trail, Center City. Open daily. $7 for a day pass ($35 for an annual parks pass). Thirty-five miles of hiking and cross-country ski trails, guesthouse and camping within the park, and 18 miles of riverside beauty make this park a gem. There are also campsites for visitors with horses. Spring provides some of the most beautiful wildflower displays in the state. For those with GPS units and an itch to explore, the aforementioned Minnesota DNR site provides coordinates for historical searches within the park.
William O’Brien State Park (651-539-4980; dnr.state.mn.us/state_parks/william_obrien/index.html), 16821 N. O’Brien Trail, Marine on St. Croix. Open daily. $7 for a day pass ($35 for an annual parks pass). This small but lovely park is just north of Marine on St. Croix. Named after a lumber baron who had originally cleared the land of trees, the park is now (more than a century later) reforested and full of wildlife and river access. It’s open year-round and offers trails for cross-country skiing and snowshoeing, as well as campsites with electricity for winter camping. There’s a swimming beach in the summer with a large picnic area adjacent, and canoeing on the river is made possible by rentals in the park. Canoe shuttle service is offered during summer. Birdwatchers can spot hundreds of different birds. The visitor center has a seasonal checklist of what might be seen, from the more commonly found Canada goose and northern flicker to the uncommon (but still possible!) great blue heron, ruffed grouse, and scarlet tanager.
WILLIAM O’BRIEN STATE PARK
ST. CROIX STATE PARK
St. Croix State Park (320-384-6591; dnr.state.mn.us/state_parks/st_croix/index.html), 30065 St. Croix Park Road, Hinckley. Open daily. The state’s largest state park was built as a Civilian Conservation Corps (CCC) project during the Depression years. More than 34,000 acres of former farmland has been redeveloped into open parkland, and the buildings built by the CCC helped lead to the park’s designation as a National Historic Landmark.
But besides the history, recreational opportunities abound. In addition to the St. Croix River, the park also has the Kettle River, the first State Wild and Scenic River. There are 100 miles of trails for hiking, some of which are open to horseback riders and mountain bikers, and during the summer visitors can rent bikes at the Adventure St. Croix Store by the campground. A swimming beach is available, and canoers and kayakers can launch on the river of their choice. Splendid views are available by climbing the park’s 100-foot fire tower, or spend some time in the company of your fishing pole. A six-bedroom guesthouse, cabins, and rustic campsites can be reserved in advance (the guesthouse is open year-round). During the winter, trails are groomed for cross-country skiers and snowmobilers.
SKIING Wild Mountain & Taylors Falls Recreation (651-465-6315; wildmountain.com), 37200 Wild Mountain Road, Taylors Falls. Wild Mountain takes advantage of the rolling terrain in the river area to run 25 ski and boarding runs during the winter, along with a snow-tubing course. During the summer, the “recreation” part of the company offers a water park with alpine slide and go-cart tracks, as well as public and private charter river cruises, canoe and kayak rental, and an RV park and campground.
Lodging
The upper St. Croix Valley has been compared to quaint New England villages, so it’s fitting that there are some charming, historic bed-and-breakfasts in the area.
The Old Jail (651-900-1694; oldjail.com), 349 Government Street W., Taylors Falls. Two suites are offered, one in a former jail cell, the other in part of a cave originally used to store beer for a saloon. Despite its gruesome history, the suites are lovely, all including private bath, some including old-fashioned record players, one including a bathroom in a cave, and one not recommended for people over 6 feet tall. Rates include breakfast at a nearby restaurant. Rates start at $150.
Women’s Environmental Institute at Amador Hill (651-583-0705; w-e-i.org), 15715 River Road, North Branch. Located in an organic apple orchard on the edge of Wild River State Park, the WEI offers four rooms for guests or groups. Two of the rooms share a bath, and the largest room has a fireplace. The rooms are simple but attractive; it’s the location that makes this a worthwhile getaway. Rates start at $75.
Where to Eat
DINING OUT 
Tangled Up in Blue (651-465-1000; tangledupinbluerestaurant.net), 425 Bench Street, Taylors Falls. Open Fri. and Sat. for dinner, Thurs. and Sun. on occasion (call for specifics). A French fusion restaurant with upscale fare and a good wine list. Try the Coubulliac of salmon, and don’t forget the Bananas Foster for dessert. Expensive.
GLACIAL POTHOLES?
Interstate State Park is located on US 8 just at the entrance of Taylors Falls. The park’s name reflects its cross-river location, with the park stretching from Minnesota to Wisconsin. River access makes kayaking and canoeing popular, and interesting geological formations, including exposed lava flows and glacial deposits, make this an intriguing area for exploration. Of particular interest are the glacial potholes, immense holes (the deepest one is 60 feet) made in the bedrock when the Glacial St. Croix River forced its way through. Interstate State Park has more of these glacial potholes in one area than any other place in the world. Rock climbing is popular, and during the fall, the autumn colors provide a major draw. Interstate State Park (651-465-5711; dnr.state.mn.us/state_parks/interstate/index.html), 307 Milltown Road, Taylors Falls. Open daily. $7 for a day pass ($35 for an annual parks pass).
EATING OUT Swedish Inn (651-257-2571; facebook.com/Swedish-Inn-115562678470817), 12678 Lake Boulevard, Lindstrom. Open daily for breakfast and lunch, Tues.–Fri. for dinner. Get your Swedish on here, especially with the breakfast foods—Swedish pancakes, anyone? Inexpensive.
TRADITIONAL PAINTED FLOWERBOX IN LINDSTROM
Lindstrom Bakery (651-257-1374; facebook.com/Lindstrom-Bakery-Inc-120703007945281), 12830 Lake Boulevard, Lindstrom. Open Mon.–Sat. All the baked goods are worthwhile (and some are organic), but what you really want is a Scandinavian doughnut, crunchy on the outside, soft on the inside. Inexpensive.
Eichten’s Market (651-257-1566; eichtensmarket.com), 16440 Lake Boulevard, Center City. Open daily. Eichten’s, a purveyor of locally farmed meats and locally produced cheese, serves salads, sandwiches, and home-baked pies. Inexpensive/moderate.
The Drive In (651-465-7831; taylorsfallsdrivein.com), 572 Bench Street, Taylors Falls. Open daily for lunch and dinner, mid-Apr.–mid-Oct. It’s retro, it’s got a giant rotating root-beer cup on a stick, and its burgers and malts are served to your vehicle by carhops. Oh, and there’s mini golf. Inexpensive.
THE DRIVE IN
EICHTEN’S MARKET
Special Events
June: Midsommar Dag (651-433-5053; gammelgardenmuseum.org/events), Scandia. Held each year in late June at the Gammelgården Museum (see To See and Do), Midsommar Dag is a celebration of the community’s Scandinavian heritage. The traditional raising of the maypole is accompanied by food, music, and dancing in traditional costumes.
July: Karl Oskar Days (651-257-7648; cityoflindstrom.us/parks-KOD.htm), Lindstrom. The annual celebration of Vilhelm Moberg’s fictional Swedish immigrant couple is the county’s largest festival and includes a Taste of Sweden, arts and crafts, a parade, live entertainment, and a street dance.
August: Spelmansstamma Music Festival (651-433-5053; gammelgardenmuseum.org/events), Scandia. Held each year at the Gammelgården Museum (see To See and Do), the Spelmansstamma Music Festival provides a variety of traditional Scandinavian folk music, with a Swedish smorgasbord, craft fair, and children’s activities.