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Continue along rue Etienne-Marcel and turn left onto rue Française and then right at rue de Turbigo and you will come to St-Eustache. Like the church of St-Gervais-St-Protais, St-Eustache also began construction as a Gothic building, only to be finished in a Renaissance Neoclassical style. Despite its somewhat unfinished appearance – the Neoclassical front is missing one of its towers, it makes for a startling contrast to the rest of the Gothic building – St-Eustache has to be one of the most beautiful churches in the city. Attributed to Italian architect Domenico da Cortona, the interior is clearly modelled on Notre-Dame, with its five naves and side and radial chapels, while the front resembles St-Sulpice. The stained-glass windows in the chancel were created from cartoons by Philippe de Champaigne.
Named for St Eustace, a Roman general burnt along with the rest of his family for being Christian, the church is associated with a number of famous figures, including Molière, the Marquise de Pompadour (Louis XV’s mistress) and Cardinal Richelieu, all of whom were baptised here. It is also the place Mozart chose for his mother’s funeral.
Like all churches during the Revolution, St-Eustache was desecrated, although some fine paintings by Rubens are still to be seen. The church frequently hosts concerts on its magnificent organ.
St-Eustache
Opening times: 9.30am–7pm Mon–Fri; 10am–7pm Sat; 9.15am–7pm Sun
Services: 12.30pm, 6pm Mon–Fri; 6pm Sat; 9.30am, 11am, 6pm Sun
Organ recitals: 5.30pm Sun
Tel: 01. 42 36 31 05
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Diagonally across from the front of St-Eustache is the Bourse du Commerce at No. 2 rue de Viarmes. Built on the site of a series of royal town houses, architect Nicolas Le Camus de Mezieres built a circular corn exchange here between 1763 and 1767. Pierced by 25 arches, the central courtyard remained open to the elements, but two concentric galleries, which were also open, allowed for a certain amount of shelter. These were supported by Tuscan columns.
As the open courtyard affected the quality of the grain stored, a dome was built in 1782–83 by Jacques-Guillaume Legrand and Jacques Molino. This was much admired but destroyed by fire in 1802. It was rebuilt between 1806–11. The dome’s iron and copper cladding were replaced by glass in 1838. Victor Hugo hated it, comparing it to a jockey’s cap. Again ravaged by fire in 1854, it eventually closed down in 1873 and was turned into a Chamber of Commerce by architect Henri Blondel in 1885. He altered the dome, closed the arcades and dressed the entire building in stone. It officially opened in 1889 and was restored again in 1989. It is still home to an electronic futures market.
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