I was in Lucknow for a promotional event for MasterChef India when a journalist asked me what I thought of Awadhi cuisine. I answered, ‘If there were an association or commonwealth of world heritage cuisines, Lucknow would be its capital.’ And I meant it.
Awadhi cuisine is the cuisine of the nawabs and every dish reflects the opulence and richness of their culture. Dried fruit, cream and saffron are used unsparingly and every guest is treated like a king. This dish is inspired by the famous kundan kalia (golden gravy). The succulence of the chicken in the silky smooth, silvery gravy makes for a truly royal experience. Serve it with sheermal (p. 210) and dine like a nawab.
Brown onion paste (for about ½ cup)
3 tbsp oil
2 cups onions, finely sliced
Brown chironjee paste (for ½ cup)
1 tbsp clarified butter
½ cup calumpong nuts (chironjee)
2 tbsp milk
Gravy
500 g chicken, boneless
2 tbsp oil
2 tbsp clarified butter
5 pods green cardamom
2" stick cinnamon
4–5 cloves
4 (large) onions, finely sliced
1½ tbsp ginger juice
1½ tbsp garlic juice
2 cups yogurt, whisked 2 tsp coriander powder
¾ cup brown onion paste
½ cup cashew nut paste (p. 12)
½ cup brown chironjee paste
1½ cups vegetable stock
⅓ tsp mace powder
⅓ tsp green cardamom powder
A few drops vetiver (kewra essence)
¾ cup fresh cream
1 tsp salt or to taste
Garnish
1 leaf silver leaf (varq)
Ginger juice To make 4 tbsp ginger juice, grate a 3" piece of ginger and combine with 4 tbsp of water in a blender or grinder. Grind to make a smooth, thin paste and pour into a muslin cloth placed over a bowl. Scrape the surface of the cloth with a spoon to allow the juice to strain through.
Garlic juice To make 4 tbsp garlic juice, roughly chop 10 cloves of garlic and combine with 4–5 tbsp of water. Using a blender or mixer, blend the mixture to get a thin paste and pour into a muslin cloth placed over a bowl. Scrape the surface of the cloth with a spoon to allow the juice to strain through.
Brown onion paste Put oil in a frying pan or kadhai (wok) over medium-high heat. When hot, add onions and sauté, stirring and tossing continuously, till light golden. Remove and drain on absorbent paper. Using a food processor or mixer, grind the sautéed onions to a smooth, thick paste.
Brown chironjee paste Melt clarified butter in a frying pan or kadhai (wok) over low heat. Add chironjee and lightly fry it, stirring continuously to ensure even cooking. Since nuts tend to burn quickly, you may remove the pan from the heat every 2–3 minutes and keep stirring. After about 30 seconds, return the pan to heat and continue frying. Fry the chironjee till light brown, remove from heat and cool to room temperature. In a food processor, combine the fried chironjee with milk and grind to make a smooth, thick paste.
Gravy Wash chicken and cut into 1" cubes. Set aside. Put oil with clarified butter in a frying pan over medium heat. When hot, add whole spices. When they crackle, add onions and fry till golden. Stir in 1½ tbsp each of ginger and garlic juice and cook for 2–3 minutes. Add yogurt and sauté over low heat till the gravy is almost dry. (The yogurt may split; keep cooking till all the excess moisture has evaporated.) Mix in coriander powder, brown onion paste and cashew nut paste and fry till cashew nut paste is cooked. Add brown chironjee paste and fry for 3–4 minutes. Pour in stock and cook for 15–20 minutes till the gravy thickens. Mix in mace powder, cardamom powder and kewra essence. Add chicken and simmer till it absorbs the flavours of the gravy and is tender. Remove pan from heat. Mix in cream and salt. Return pan to very low heat and simmer for 2–3 minutes longer. Spoon into a serving bowl, garnish with silver leaf and serve hot.
NOTE: For ginger and garlic juice, one can also dilute ready-made ginger or garlic paste and strain through a muslin cloth as described above. To dilute, combine 1 part paste with 3 parts water.