Varanasi Poori
Fried Bread
SERVES 4
Varanasi or Banaras is the oldest surviving city in India and one of the oldest in the world. Situated on the banks of the holy river Ganga in Uttar Pradesh, Varanasi is considered by many to be India’s holiest city.
Religious as they are, the people of Varanasi are equally (if not more) fond of good food. This recipe was given to me by a street vendor with whom I struck up a conversation. The Varanasi poori is a fried bread with the subtlest of flavours. It tastes excellent just by itself.
INGREDIENTS (makes 12–14)
Dough
2 cups wholewheat flour (atta)
½ tsp salt
Oil for deep-frying
Filling
3 tbsp clarified butter
1 tsp cumin seeds
2 pods green cardamom
1" stick cinnamon
¾ tbsp coriander seeds
1/8 tsp asafoetida powder
⅓ cup husked, split black gram (urad dal)
A pinch of black salt
3 green chillies, crushed
½ tsp red chilli powder
METHOD
Dough In a mixing bowl, combine the flour with salt and 1 tbsp of oil and mix well. Gradually add water and knead to make a smooth, soft, pliable dough. Cover with a damp muslin cloth and set aside.
Filling Wash dal and soak in water for 2 hours. Drain. Melt clarified butter in a frying pan over medium-low heat. Add cumin seeds, cardamoms, cinnamon, coriander seeds and asafoetida powder. When the spices crackle, add drained dal and sauté for 5 minutes. Mix in black salt, green chillies and chilli powder. Sauté for 2 minutes longer. Remove from heat and cool to room temperature. Grind the dal mixture to a coarse paste in a food processor.
To cook Divide dough into large lemon-sized portions. Divide filling into the same number of portions as the dough. Flatten a portion of dough into a flat disc, using your fingertips. Place a portion of filling in the centre of the disc and gather the edges around to seal in filling. Using a rolling pin, roll out a thickish, 4" round poori. Make all the pooris the same way. Put oil in a kadhai (wok) over medium-low heat. When oil is hot (but not smoking), carefully slide a rolled poori into it. Using a frying spoon, carefully drizzle the hot oil over the poori in the kadhai. When the poori puffs up and turns golden, remove and drain on absorbent paper. Repeat for remaining pooris. Serve hot with any chutney or curry of your choice.
