Sichuan tea-smoked duck

Serves 8

Said to have been invented by the kitchen brigade of the dowager empress of the Qing dynasty, Sichuan tea-smoked duck is one of the most-lauded Chinese delicacies.

This dish is far from difficult, but you need time and an old wok if you don’t have a smoker. The bird is marinated, then steamed to render it tender before it’s smoked on a bed of tea leaves. Finally, the duck is deep-fried to crisp the skin before it’s presented to eager diners. I use duck legs and simmer them to save time. Start this recipe a day in advance.

8 duck legs

1 tablespoon sea salt

2 tablespoons Mei Kuei Lu Chiew (see Note) or Shaoxing rice wine

1 tablespoon Sichuan peppercorns

1 tablespoon fennel seeds

1 teaspoon cloves

5 spring onions (scallions), chopped

2–3 sticks cassia bark

2 whole star anise

1 walnut-sized piece ginger, crushed

Vegetable oil, for deep-frying

SICHUAN PEPPER–SALT DIP

1 tablespoon Sichuan peppercorns

4 tablespoons sea salt flakes

SMOKING INGREDIENTS

4 tablespoons tea leaves

150 g (5½ oz/¾ cup) rice

150 g (5½ oz/¾ cup) brown sugar

Put the duck legs in a bowl, prick with a fork and rub with salt. Splash Mei Kuei Lu or Shaoxing over the duck, mix well and leave to marinate for 2–3 hours.

Tie the Sichuan peppercorns, fennel seeds and cloves in a piece of muslin (cheesecloth) with string to form a bag. Put the bag and the spring onions, cassia bark, star anise and ginger in a large stockpot with 3 litres (105 fl oz/12 cups) water. Bring to the boil, then reduce the heat to simmer for about 15 minutes to allow the flavours to develop. Add the duck and simmer for 30–40 minutes until cooked through but not falling off the bone. Remove the pot from the heat and leave to cool, then refrigerate the duck in the stock for 12 hours.

To make the Sichuan pepper–salt dip, dry-roast the Sichuan peppercorns for 30 seconds in a hot pan, then transfer to a bowl. Add the sea salt flakes to the pan and stir continuously until golden. Add the salt to the peppercorns, cool and then grind finely in a spice grinder.

Pat the duck legs dry with paper towel. Line a large wok with a double layer of foil and put the smoking ingredients on top. Place the duck legs on a metal rack over the ingredients and cover tightly with the wok lid. Turn the heat to high and when smoke begins to escape put a damp cloth around the rim and reduce the heat to low. Leave to smoke for 10 minutes, then turn off the heat and leave for another 5 minutes. Remove the duck and discard the smoking ingredients.

Pat the duck dry with paper towel. Heat oil for deep-frying in the wok to 180°C (350°F) or until a piece of bread turns golden in 10 seconds. Deep-fry the duck legs until crisp and mahogany coloured. Serve warm with Sichuan pepper-salt dip and cucumber salad.

Note Mei Kuei Lu Chiew liquor, a rose wine, is made with sorghum and rose petals. If it’s unavailable, use Shaoxing rice wine.