XO sauce

Makes 1.5 kg (3 lb 5 oz)

Created in Hong Kong in the 1980s, this condiment quickly became a favourite among the cognoscenti who graced the fine dining rooms of the city’s élite restaurants. Named after XO Cognac, it’s undoubtedly one of the most luxurious of Chinese sauces, made with expensive ingredients such as conpoy, or dried scallop, which costs around $A600 per kilo, and the fabled dry-aged ham from Yunnan. It’s exotic and addictive.

While the origins of XO sauce are hazy, most of the chefs and restaurateurs I’ve spoken to believe it came from Spring Moon, the Cantonese restaurant in the grand Peninsula hotel. And in my notes for a piece I wrote in the 1990s, the restaurant told me their chefs have been making this sauce since 1986.

So what does this legendary sauce taste like? The first thing that hits you is the umami of the conpoy and ham. The shallots and chillies that have infused the proteins then create a gorgeous tingling sensation on the palate.

While the best XO sauce can be savoured on its own, it’s marvellous with dumplings or a plate of stir-fried greens. It’s also excellent with braised egg noodles and as a topping on bean curd or steamed rice.

The traditional method for making this sauce is to deep-fry the shredded scallops, but my shallow-fried version works a treat. The quantity I’ve given is large but can be halved. Use smoked bacon if jamón is not available, and start the recipe a day in advance to rehydrate the dried scallops and shrimp.

100 g (3½ oz) dried scallops, rinsed

30 g (1 oz) dried shrimp, rinsed

30 g (1 oz) dried red chillies, soaked in hot water for 30 minutes

500 ml (17 fl oz/2 cups) vegetable oil, plus extra for storing

150 g (5½ oz) garlic, finely chopped

150 g (5½ oz) red Asian shallots, finely chopped

20 g (¾ oz) ginger, finely chopped

150 g (5½ oz) long red chillies, seeded and finely chopped

200 g (7 oz) jamón, finely chopped

15 g (½ oz) dried shrimp roe (optional)

Sugar, to taste

Put the scallops and shrimp in separate containers, cover with warm water and leave to soak overnight.

Drain the scallops, reserving the soaking water, into a bowl and shred the scallops with your fingers to separate the fibres. Drain the dried shrimp, reserving the soaking water, and finely chop. Set both aside.

Drain the softened dried chillies and pound or grind to a coarse paste.

Heat the oil in a wok over high heat, then reduce the heat to medium. Add the garlic, shallots and ginger and stir-fry for 5 minutes until fragrant. Add the dried and fresh chillies and stir-fry for 2–3 minutes until fragrant. Add the scallops, shrimp and jamón and stir-fry gently for another 5 minutes. Add the reserved soaking liquid and stir well. Cook for 20–30 minutes over medium–low heat, stirring occasionally, until the liquid has evaporated.

Add the shrimp roe, if using, and season with sugar and salt to taste. Cool, place in jars, cover with oil and store in the refrigerator for a month or so, topping up the oil occasionally.