Huay Xai ຫ້ວຍ​ຊາຍ

%084 / Pop 20,000

It's unlikely you'll be sending a postcard home from this dustblown low-slung border town, with Thailand just a few hundred metres across the coffee-brown Mekong. A clandestine US heroin processing plant was allegedly based here during the Secret War, but these days the only things spirited through Huay Xai are travellers en route to Luang Prabang and those headed here for a visit to the fabled Gibbon Experience, still Laos' most talked-about and eco-conscious jungle adventure.

By night Huay Xai's central drag dons fairy lights and roadside food vendors fire up their wares. There are some welcoming guesthouses and a couple of choice bars to tide you over.

4Sleeping & Eating

Budget sleeping and eating haunts are mainly clustered on the main drag.

oDaauw HomestayHOMESTAY$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %030-9041296; www.projectkajsiablaos.org; r 60,000-80,000K)

Run by lovely Hmong folk, your stay in a cosy bungalow near the heart of town enables you to contribute something to women's empowerment and minority rights, for this place is a grassroots initiative run by Project Kajsiab. Lovely alluring rooms with sunset views, hammock, balcony and private bathroom; these little bungalows may be the cosiest choice in town.

There's a small handicrafts shop, and you can also volunteer here. It's located just off the stairs to Wat Jom Khao Manilat, half way up on the right-hand side.

Phonetip GuesthouseGUESTHOUSE$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %084-211084; Th Saykhong; r 40,000-90,000K; aW)

Central and friendly. Although it's basic, the owners ensure the place smells fragrant, the sheets and floors are clean, the wi-fi works and the staff are friendly. The cheapest options are just beds in boxes but there's a pleasant road-facing communal area to sit upstairs if you can grab a seat.

Oudomphone Guesthouse 2GUESTHOUSE$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %084-211308, 020 55683134; Main St; r with fan/air-con 80,000/120,000K; aW)

Clean and central, these digs have a pleasant breakfast cafe and spacious nondescript rooms with bathroom. Nothing spectacular but one of the slightly better options.

BAP GuesthouseLAOTIAN$

( GOOGLE MAP ; Th Saykhong; r 60,000-130,000K; mains 15,000-35,000K; v)

Run by English-speaking Mrs Changpeng, trusty old BAP has 16 rooms of varying appeal, some with fan or air-con and private bathroom. There are four newish ones which merit a mention for their colourful quilts, wood accents, TV and sunset views over the Mekong, particularly rooms 108 and 109. The restaurant is also popular for its fried rice dishes, pasta and hearty breakfasts.

Riverview CafeLAOTIAN, INTERNATIONAL$

(Gecko Bar; GOOGLE MAP ; Th Saykhong; meals 40,000K; h6.30am-11pm)

With its rattan ceiling dramatically on the verge of collapse and the thirsty walls peeling, it might not look much, but notice it's always full and stand and catch the aromas from the kitchen, and in no time you'll be tucking into wood-fired pizzas, burgers, stir-fries, soup noodles and very zestful lahp.

It's next door to the Gibbon Experience; stock up on a sandwich to take with you to the jungle.

DaauwLAOTIAN$

( GOOGLE MAP ; mains 30,000-50,000K; v)

The friendliest vibe in town: soak up the sunset view on its chill-out terrace decked in low cushions and an open pit fire, and choose from freshly prepared organic Hmong food, wood-fired pizza, plenty of vegetarian options, or whole barbecued Mekong fish or chicken. Linger for laojitos if there's a crowd, a mojito made with lòw-lów (rice wine).

THE GIBBON EXPERIENCE

Back in 1996 poaching was threatening the extinction of the black-crested gibbon in Laos until the Gibbon Experience (%084-212021; www.gibbonexperience.org; express 2-day US$190, 3-day classic or waterfall US$310) came to their rescue with a brilliantly inventive eco-meets-adrenalin concept: a series of navigable 'ziplines' criss-crossing the canopy of some of Laos' most pristine forest, and, more crucially, poachers re-employed as Gibbon Experience guides. Local wildlife including tigers, clouded leopards, black bears and the eponymous black-crested gibbon have as a direct result been given the chance to replenish, while you have the satisfaction that your money goes directly into conserving their habitat. This is one of the most successful illustrations of ecotourism in Laos today.

And the zipping? Given the lush territory, one of the wildest spots in Laos, and the fact that this is where zipping started, this is still the best place to lose your breath in Laos. You'll stay in one of the world's tallest tree houses complete with cooking facilities and running rainwater showers, while in between scouting for wildlife, you'll be zipping. It's a heart-stopping, superhero experience.

Your day will also involve a serious amount of trekking. Bring a pair of hiking boots and long socks to deter the ever-persistent leeches, plus a torch and earplugs. The guides are helpful, though be vigilant with the knots in your harness.

There are three options to choose from: the three-day 'Classic' (less trekking), and 'Waterfall' (increased slog balanced by a dip in a cascade pool); and the two-day 'Express' maximising zipping time. Fees include transport to and from the park, plus all food and refreshments.

Payments can be made well in advance via PayPal. Turn up in Huay Xai the day before your trek and report to the Gibbon Experience office ( GOOGLE MAP ; %084-212021; www.gibbonexperience.org; Th Saykhong; h8am-7pm). Next door you can buy gloves, torches and stock up on treats.

6Drinking & Nightlife

Bar HowBAR

( GOOGLE MAP ; Th Saykhong; mains 25,000-40,000K; h6.30am-11pm; W)

Decked in old muskets and rice paddy hats, Bar How is dark and atmospheric. By night it's even more inviting, a row of sinister-looking homemade lòw-lów (rice wine) infused with everything from blueberry to tamarind, honey to lychee, catching the low light light like something out of a Victorian apothecary. Pasta, steak, juices and breakfast too.

8Information

BCELBANK

( GOOGLE MAP ; Th Saykhong; h8.30am-4.30pm Mon-Fri)

Twenty-four-hour ATM, exchange facility and Western Union.

Lao Development Bank Exchange BoothEXCHANGE

( GOOGLE MAP ; h8am-5pm)

Handy booth right beside the pedestrian immigration window. Most major currencies exchanged into kip. US-dollar bills must be dated 2006 or later.

Tourist Information OfficeTOURIST INFORMATION

( GOOGLE MAP ; %084-211162; Th Saykhong; h8am-4.30pm Mon-Fri)

Has free tourist maps of the town and some suggestions for excursions around the province.

8Getting There & Away

Air

Huay Xai's airport is perched on a hillside 1.5km northwest of the bus station. Lao Airlines flies daily to/from Vientiane for 895,000K.

Boat

Slow boats headed down the Mekong River to Luang Prabang (220,000K per person, two days, not including overnight accommodation) hold about 70 people. Boats leave from the boat landing at the north end of town at 11am and stop for one night in Pak Beng (110,000K, six to eight hours). Tickets are available from the boat landing the afternoon before you travel, or from guesthouses.

Speedboats to Pak Beng (190,000K, three hours) and Luang Prabang (320,000K, six hours) leave when full, from a landing about 2km south of town, from 8am daily. Buy your ticket at any one of the guesthouses or on arrival at the kiosk above the boat landing. Deaths are not uncommon given the recklessness of the drivers.

Slow boats also run to Luang Namtha (1,530,000K to 1,700,000K per boat split between passengers, plus 40,000K each for food and accommodation) via Ban Na Lae. Ask at BAP Guest House for more information.

For any journey take plenty of water, food supplies and padding for your back (earplugs are useful for the speedboat).

Bus

The bus station is 5km east of town. Buses to Luang Prabang (120,000K, 14 to 17 hours) depart at 10am and 4pm, Udomxai (85,000K, nine hours) at 9.30am, and one for Vientiane (230,000K, 25 hours) at 11.30am. There is also a bus to Muengla (120,000K) at 8.30am and Xieng Khong (160,000K) at 8am. For Luang Namtha (60,000K, four hours) an additional bus departs at 9am.

Travel-agency minibuses to Luang Namtha (100,000K) leave from central Huay Xai at around 9am.

GETTING TO THAILAND: NORTHERN BORDERS

HUAY XAI TO CHIANG RAI

Since the completion of the Thai-Lao Friendship Bridge 4 at the Huay Xai/Chiang Khong border in late 2013, the former boat crossing across the Mekong is only for locals.

Getting to the border Tuk-tuks cost about 80B per person to the immigration post.

At the border A bus (20B to 30B) crosses the bridge. A 15-day Thai visa waiver is automatically granted when entering Thailand. Arriving in Chiang Khong, pay the 30B port fee and catch a 30B túk-túk to take you to the bus station. The nearest ATM on the Thai side is 2km south.

Moving on Many travellers leave Huay Xai bound for Chiang Rai (365B, 2½ hours), with buses typically departing from Chiang Khong's bus station every hour from 6am till 5pm. Greenbus (%in Thailand 0066 5365 5732; www.greenbusthailand.com) has services to Chiang Mai at 6am, 9am and 11.40am. Several overnight buses for Bangkok (500 to 750B, 10 hours) leave at 3pm and 3.30pm. For information on doing this crossing in reverse, see here.

HONGSA TO PHRAE

Getting to the border The Muang Ngeun/Ban Huay Kon border crossing (8am to 5pm) is around 2.5km west of Muang Ngeun junction. Several sŏrngtăaou make the run from Hongsa (50,000K, 1½ hours) to Muang Ngeun. Once the new bridge north of Pak Beng is open, there will also be a bus service.

At the border Lao visas are available on arrival here, payable in US dollars or Thai baht. Most nationalities entering into Thailand don't need a visa.

Moving on From the Thai side, if you don't want to walk your bags across the 1km of no man's land you can pay 100B for a motorbike with luggage-carrying sidecar. The Thai border post, Ban Huay Kon, is not quite a village but does have simple noodle shops. The only public transport is a luxurious minibus (083-024 3675) to Phrae (160B, five hours) via Nan (100B, three hours) departing from the border post at 11.45am. Northbound it leaves the bus stations in Phrae at 6am, and Nan at 8am. For information on doing this crossing in reverse, see here.

PAK LAI TO LOEI

Getting to the border The quiet rural Kaen Thao/Tha Li border crossing (8am to 6pm) is the home of yet another (small) Friendship Bridge, this time over the Nam Heuang. From Pak Lai, there are sŏrngtăaou to the border post at Kaen Thao at around 10am and noon (50,000K, 1¾ hours).

At the border Lao visas are available on arrival here, payable in US dollars or Thai baht. You'll need a passport-size photo. Most nationalities entering into Thailand don't need a visa.

Moving on After walking across the bridge you'll have to take a short sŏrngtăaou ride (30B) 8km to Tha Li before transferring to another sŏrngtăaou (40B) for the remaining 46km to Loei, from where there are regular connections to Bangkok and elsewhere. For information on doing this crossing in reverse, see here.

Central & Southern Laos

Steamy rice plains and protected forests await travellers heading south to tackle other0worldly Tham Kong Lo, a vast 7.5km subterranea in Khammuane Province, also celebrated for its ragged charcoal-black karsts and the legendary Loop, a terrific three-day motorbike adventure. Nearby colonial Tha Khaek and further south Savannakhet merit a visit for their old French buildings, while close to the rural charms of turquoise-watered (Si Phan Don) Four Thousand Islands, you'll find sleepy Champasak with its beautiful Khmer ruins.

Route 8 to Lak Sao

Wind your way through a lost world of jungle and dreamlike rock formations in some of the country's trippiest landscape. The first major stop is Ban Khoun Kham (also known as Ban Na Hin), 41km east of Rte 13, in the lush Hin Bun valley. The village makes a base from which to explore Phu Hin Bun National Protected Area. You can also catch your onward bus to Ban Kong Lo, the base for extraordinary Tham Kong Lo. Community-based treks gear up at the tourist information centre (%020 55598412; Rte 8; h8am-4pm) just south of the Tat Namsanam entrance.

1Sights

Tham Kong LoCAVE

(close to Ban Kong Lo; 130,000K per boat)

Situated in the 1580-sq-km wilderness of Phu Hin Bun National Protected Area, this 7.5km river tunnel, running beneath an immense limestone mountain, ratchets up the fear dial like some natural gothic ghost ride. Puttering into its 100m church-high darkness by longtail is the only way to travel, your stomach turning as the cave entrance becomes a pinpoint of light. Halfway, you'll moor up and stroll through a dramatically lit stalactite wood, like an abandoned old Star Trek set.

Remember to bring a decent torch, plus rubber sandals. Kong Lo village (about 1km downstream of the cave mouth) is your base for this unforgettable trip. Takes around two hours for the return trip with a 20-minute drinks break at a sala on the other side of the cave. Lifejackets are handed out at the ticket office.

4Sleeping & Eating

Ban Khoun Kham

Digs in Ban Khoun Kham are basic, with warm showers and private bathrooms.

Xok Xai GuesthouseGUESTHOUSE$

(%051-233629; Rte 8; r 80,000K; paW)

Lovely rooms in a traditional house set back off Rte 8 (400m north from the market). Details include spotless varnished floors, thick duvets, TV, air-con, powder-blue curtains and hot-water en suites.

Sainamhai ResortRESORT$$

(%020 2331683; www.sainamhairesort.com; s/d US$20/25; paW)

By far the dreamiest, most cosy accommodation in town – except it's not in town. Thankfully Sainamhai sits by the Nam Hai (Hai River) a little out of the village. There's a handsome longhouse restaurant (mains 25,000K), a fertile garden and 12 well-maintained rattan-walled cabanas with private balconies, en suites and clean linen. Add to this warm service, air-con...convinced?

It's 3km east of Rte 8 via a turn-off a few kilometres down the road that leads to Tham Kong Lo. Staff will pick you up for free at the sŏrngtăaou station if you call ahead.

Kong Lo Village

Not as comfortable as Chantha Guest House perhaps, but definitely more memorable are the homestay options (per person including breakfast and dinner 50,000K) in Kong Lo village. Ask around and a family will take you in.

Chantha Guest HouseGUESTHOUSE$

(%020 2100002; www.chanthahouse.com; Ban Kong Lo; r US$15-20; paiW)

This Swiss-style accommodation on the main road to Kong Lo and at the beginning of the village has 15 cool and well-kept rooms, plus a dorm. There's a DVD lounge and a small cafe and the owners are friendly. There's a bike for rent and, best of all, magnificent views of the cliffs.

Mithuna RestaurantLAOTIAN$

(Ban Kong Lo; mains 30,000K; h7am-8pm)

Close to the entrance to Tham Kong Lo, this semi-alfresco, fan-cooled restaurant serves up noodles, fried rice and pork lahp, as well as Western breakfasts.

8Getting There & Away

From Tha Khaek there's daily 8am and 9am departures for Ban Khoun Kham (60,000K). Alternatively, there's a direct daily bus to Kong Lo from Tha Khaek's Talat Phetmany at 7am (80,000K). All transport along Rte 8 stops at Ban Khoun Kham. If you're coming from Vientiane hop off at Vieng Kham and continue by sŏrngtăaou (30,000K, 7am to 7pm) to Ban Khoun Kham.

A bus for Vientiane (80,000K, six hours) leaves at 10am. For Tha Khaek (80,000K, three hours, 143km), there are a couple of buses in the morning; for Lak Sao take any passing bus or sŏrngtăaou (30,000K).

From Ban Khoun Kham to Ban Kong Lo, it's a 20-minute journey by sŏrngtăaou (30,000K), which depart at 10am, 12.30pm and 3pm. Headed the other way from Ban Kong Lo to Ban Khoun Kham, sŏrngtăaou depart at 6.30am, 8am and 11am.

GETTING TO THAILAND: CENTRAL BORDERS

THA KHAEK TO NAKHON PHANOM

Getting to the border A Friendship Bridge has opened here (the ferry boat that used to run is now closed to foreigners). The bridge is some 7km from Tha Khaek and a tuk-tuk carrying two people over the bridge will cost 25,000K per person from Tha Khaek's bus station (departing every half-hour). The immigration office on the bridge opens at 7am and closes at 4pm.

At the border A free 15-day visa is granted on entry to Thailand. There's an exchange booth and 24-hour ATM.

Moving on From the bridge it's a 30B túk-túk ride to Thailand's Nakhon Phanom bus station, from where buses leave regularly for Udon Thani and also Bangkok (at 7.30am and from 7pm to 8pm). For information on doing this crossing in reverse, see here.

PAKSAN TO BUENG KAN

Getting to the border In Paksan follow a sign to the port and Lao border post (open 8am to noon and 1.30pm to 4.30pm). The boat across the Mekong to Bueng Kan takes a few minutes and costs 60B per person or charter for 480B.

At the border Fifteen-day Thai visas are granted on arrival but check in advance with the Thai Embassy in Vientiane as this is a remote spot seldom used by travellers.

Moving on Buses leave Bueng Kan in Thailand for Udon Thani and Bangkok. For information on doing this crossing in reverse, see here.

Tha Khaek ທ່າ​ແຂກ

%051 / Pop 81,000

This ex Indochinese trading post is a pleasing melange of crumbling French villas and wilting Chinese merchant shopfronts, and, despite the new bridge over to nearby Thailand, it shows little signs of radical change. Catch a riverside sundowner or wander along its atmospheric streets as dusk's amber light kicks in and douses the old buildings in charm. With its dusty centrepiece fountain and tree-shaded boulevards glowing with braziers, Tha Khaek is reminiscent of Vientiane 15 years ago.

Tha Khaek is also a comfy base from which to do the Loop, the legendary three-day motorbike odyssey. For a proper dirtbike rental – a little more expensive than cheap Chinese scooters but far more adhesive to gravelly roads – head to Mad Monkey Motorbike.

TTours

The Tourist Information Centre run by reliable Mr Somkiad runs various adventures, such as two-day treks in the Phu Hin Bun National Protected Area, typically involving a homestay. Ask him too about the 3km-long newly discovered river cave, Tham Pa Seuam (Fish Cave), 15km away.

Green Climbers HomeCLIMBING

(%020 59667532, 020 59667539; www.greenclimbershome.com; Ban Kouanphavang, Xiangliab; ½- to 2-day courses from 200,000-100,000K depending on numbers of group)

This efficiently run training school set in a valley in soaring karst country is hugely popular and often booked up thanks to its cosy cabanas, great food and excellent courses. It also boasts one of the easiest overhangs in the world to learn on and has beginner, intermediate and expert level climbs; 170 routes; class 4 to 8B.

Located 12km from Tha Khaek, a tuk-tuk by day costs 100,000K.

Green DiscoveryADVENTURE

( GOOGLE MAP ; %051-251390; Inthira Hotel, Th Chao Annou; h8am-9pm)

A range of treks and kayaking excursions in the lush Phu Hin Bun NPA, including Tham Kong Lo (US$141). Also cycling, climbing and kayaking.

4Sleeping

oThakhek Travel LodgeGUESTHOUSE$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %051-251390, 030-5300145; travell@laotel.com; Rte 13; dm 30,000K, r wi bathroom & fan 60,000-90,000K, r with air-con & bathroom 90,000K; paiW)

It's an inconvenient five minutes out of town by tuk-tuk, but this place has a great vibe thanks to its nightly garden firepit, drawing travellers together; a cafe serving lahp, salads, pork chops and juices, and rooms varying from basic to romantic, and overpriced. Check out the log book for news of The Loop.

Mekong HotelHOTEL$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %051-250777; Th Setthathirat; r fan/air-con 100,000/140,000K; paW)

Thanks to a recent repaint this blue, Soviet-inspired monolith is much improved, with houseproud, decent rooms enjoying cable TV, air-con and fresh en suites. There's also a restaurant facing the Mekong.

Thipphachanh GuesthouseGUESTHOUSE$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %051-212762; Rte 13; r fan/air-con 60,000/80,000K; pa)

Based around a courtyard, fragrant rooms have white walls, tiled floors, TV and en suite.

5Eating

Several khào jįi (baguette) vendors can be found on or near Fountain Sq in the morning, and the adjacent riverfront is good for a cheap meal any time.

Duc RestaurantLAOTIAN$

( GOOGLE MAP ; Th Setthathirat; mains 20,000K; h6am-10pm; v)

On the riverfront just off Fountain Sq, this fan-cooled, family-run joint has the most delicious fĕr hàang (dry rice noodles served in a bowl with various herbs and seasonings but no broth) in town.

oKitchenFUSION$$

( GOOGLE MAP ; Inthira Hotel, Th Chao Anou; mains 45,000K; h7am-10pm; Wv)

Classy and low-lit, this fine restaurant is as sophisticated as sleepy Tha Khaek gets. Based in a pretty French colonial-era building, the open range kitchen, visible but behind glass, dishes up tasty Lao salads, burgers, substantial tenderised steak and decent cocktails from the sleek glass bar. You can eat on the street if it's cool out.

8Information

There are three ATMs in town (including one in Fountain Sq) plus one at the bus station.

BCELBANK

( GOOGLE MAP ; Th Vientiane)

Changes major currencies and travellers cheques, and makes cash advances on Visa.

Lao Development BankBANK

( GOOGLE MAP ; Th Vientiane)

Cash only.

Tha Khaek HospitalHOSPITAL

( GOOGLE MAP ; cnr Th Chao Anou & Th Champasak)

Fine for minor ailments. Seek out English-speaking Dr Bounthavi.

Tourist Information CentreTOURIST INFORMATION

( GOOGLE MAP ; %030-5300503, 020 55711797; www.khammuanetourism.com; Th Vientiane; h8.30am-5pm)

This excellent tourist office offers exciting one- and two-day treks in Phou Hin Boun NPA (where you have a 50% chance of spotting the red-footed Douc lemurs), including a homestay in a local village. There are also treks to the waterfall by Ban Khoun Kham and Kong Lo Cave (800,000K).

Tourist PolicePOLICE

( GOOGLE MAP ; %250610; Fountain Sq)

The police here know how to write insurance reports – if you can track down an officer.

8Getting There & Away

Tha Khaek's bus station is on Rte 13, about 3.5km from the centre of town. For Vientiane (70,000K, six hours, 353km), buses leave every hour or so between 5.30am and 9am; there's also a VIP departure at 9.15am (85,000K, six hours) and a sleeper VIP at 1am (85,000K). Any buses going north stop at Vieng Kham (Thang Beng; 35,000K, 90 minutes, 102km) and Paksan (50,000K, three to four hours, 193km). There are two daily services to Attapeu (90,000K, 10 hours, 3.30pm and 11pm), Salavan (85,000K, 11pm) and Sekong (80,000K, 10am and 3.30pm).

Southward buses to Savannakhet (30,000K) depart every half-hour, and there's a VIP bus (70,000K, six hours) to Pakse that leaves at 9am, plus hourly local buses (70,000K). For travellers heading to Vietnam, buses for Hué (120,000K) leave Monday, Tuesday, Wednesday and Saturday at 8am; every Monday and Friday at 8pm for Danang (120,000K); 8pm on Tuesday and Saturday for Hanoi (160,000K, 17 hours), and every Monday and Friday for Dong Hoi (90,000K, 10 hours).

If you're headed direct to Don Khong (150,000K, 15 hours, 452km) in the Four Thousand Islands, a bus from Vientiane stops around 5.30pm.

Sŏrngtăaou depart every hour or so from Talat Phetmany to Mahaxai Mai (35,000K, 1½ hours, 50km). One also goes direct to Ban Kong Lo (80,000K, four hours) at 7.30am.

Sook Som Boon Bus Terminal has buses that serve the Khammuane Province interior with sŏrngtăaou leaving every hour between 7.30am and 9.30am for Gnommalath (45,000K, two to three hours, 63km), Nakai (45,000K, 2½ to 3½ hours, 80km) and an 8pm departure for Na Phao (for the Vietnam border; 80,000K, 3½ hours, 142km).

GETTING TO VIETNAM: CENTRAL BORDERS

THA KHAEK TO DONG HOI

Getting to the border The Na Phao/Cha Lo border (open 7am to 4pm) is so out of the way it might be better to opt for an easier crossing elsewhere. Transport on either side is slow and scarce, though there are two daily sŏrngtăaou from Tha Khaek (50,000K, 3½ hours, 142km) at 8am and noon bound for Lang Khang, 18km short of the border. Catch the early sŏrngtăaou as you'll need to organise your own onward transport to the border.

At the border This is a small, sleepy border post. On the Vietnamese side the nearest sizeable city is Dong Hoi. Remember to organise your Vietnamese visa in advance.

Moving on A direct bus from Tha Khaek to Dong Hoi (90,000K, 10 to 14 hours) leaves four times a week at 7pm, making this the easiest way to cross this border. For information on doing this crossing in reverse, see here.

LAK SAO TO VINH

Getting to the border The Nam Phao/Cau Treo border crossing (open 7am to 4.30pm) is at the Kaew Neua Pass, 36km from Lak Sao. Sŏrngtăaou (25,000K, 45 minutes) leave every hour or so from Lak Sao market and drop passengers at the border. Alternatively, direct buses from Lak Sao to Vinh, Vietnam (120,000K, five hours), leave several times a day between noon and 2pm (you may have to change buses at the border).

At the border You'll need to prearrange a visa if heading into Vietnam. There's an exchange booth on the Laos side with ungenerous rates and, inconveniently, the Vietnam border post is another 1km up the road.

Moving on On the Vietnamese side beware of those who'll offer to take you to Vinh by minibus for US$30 – it should cost US$5 per person. A metered taxi costs around US$40 while a motorbike fare is 200,000d. Hook up with other travellers to improve bargaining power. These woes can be avoided by taking the direct bus from Lak Sao to Vinh. Once in Vinh take the sleeper train, the Reunification Express (www.vr.com.vn), direct to Hanoi. For information on doing this crossing in reverse, see here.

8Getting Around

It should cost about 20,000K to hire a jumbo to the bus terminal. Rides around town cost around 20,000K per person.

The one and only place to hire a tough, reliable motocross bike to tackle The Loop is Mad Monkey Motorbike ( GOOGLE MAP ; %020 59939909, 020 23477799; www.madmonkey-thakek.com; Fountain Sq; 250cc dirt bikes/scooters per day 350,000/160,000; h9am-8pm). If you break down you can phone the owner and for a price he'll come and get you. He can also take you to Tham Kong Lo and back, leaving at 8am and returning at 8pm.

Mr Ku's Motorbike Rental ( GOOGLE MAP ; %020 2206070; per day 100,000K; h7.30am-4.30pm), located at Thakhek Travel Lodge, has 110cc Korean bikes for getting around town or to the closer caves. Phavilai Restaurant ( GOOGLE MAP ; Fountain Sq; per day 60,000K; h6am-9pm) has a few scooters for hire, as does Wangwang ( GOOGLE MAP ; %020 56978535; Fountain Sq; per day 50,000-60,000K; h8am-9pm) internet shop.

Around Tha Khaek

Travellers rave about the The Loop, a brilliant three-day motorbike trip through dense jungle and karst country passing via Nakai, Lak Sao, Khoun Kham (Na Hin) and Tham Kong Lo; for details look at the travellers' log at Thakhek Travel Lodge. Meanwhile, buzz continues in anticipation of trips to the fantastical 9.5km subterranea of Xe Bang Fai cave, located at the edge of Hin Namno NPA. Also don't miss the myriad caves that can be swum and explored right on Tha Khaek's doorstep. Talk to English-speaking Mr Somkiad at Tha Khaek's Tourist Information Centre.

Savannakhet ສະ​ຫວັນ​ນະ​ເຂດ

%041 / Pop 139,000

Modern Savannakhet is a restless engine of activity, too busy for aesthetics as it conducts trade with neighbours Thailand and Vietnam. Fortunately for you the prettiest section of the city is within its historic quarter; enchantingly quiet and time trapped, you almost feel as if you've walked into an old film as you wander its bougainvillea-blown streets past decaying early-20th-century villas from Indochina's heyday. While most are crying out for a makeover a few faded belles have finally begun restoration programs.

There's little to do but amble the riverfront and plonk yourself down in a clutch of stylish restaurants and bijou cafes. That said there's loads to do nearby; Savannakhet has a dedicated tourist information centre and ecoguide unit, which has myriad trips to tempt you into the nearby national protected areas (NPAs).

Savannakhet

1Sights

1Musée Des DinosauresA2

2Savannakhet Provincial MuseumA4

4Sleeping

3Leena GuesthouseB3

4Souannavong Guest HouseB3

5Eating

5Chai DeeB3

6Lin's CaféA3

7Riverside Snack & Drink VendorsA3

8Xokxay RestaurantA3

1Sights

Hire a bicycle and pedal the parched streets along the riverfront, or take a trek in the neighbouring protected areas with Savannakhet's Eco Guide Unit.

Savannakhet Provincial MuseumMUSEUM

(ພິພິດທະພັນແຂວງຊະຫວັນນະເຂດ MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Th Khanthabuli; admission 10,000K; h8-11.30am & 1-4pm Mon-Sat)

The Savannakhet Provincial Museum is a good place to see war relics, artillery pieces and inactive examples of the deadly UXO (unexploded ordnance) that has claimed the lives of more than 20,000 Lao since the end of the Secret War.

Musée Des DinosauresMUSEUM

(ຫໍພິພິດທະພັນໄດໂນເສົາ, Dinosaur Museum MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %041 212 597; Th Khanthabuli; admission 10,000K; h8am-noon & 1-4pm)

In 1930 a major dig in a nearby village unearthed 200-million-year-old dinosaur fossils. The enthusiastically run Dinosaur Museum is an interesting place to see three different dinosaurs. Savannakhet Province is home to five dinosaur sites.

4Sleeping

Souannavong Guest HouseGUESTHOUSE$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %041-212600; Th Saenna; r with/without air-con 100,000/80,000K; paWc)

Unfailingly fresh with clean en suite rooms, this little guesthouse down a quiet street abloom in bougainvillea has wi-fi and bikes to rent. A welcoming place to stay.

Leena GuesthouseGUESTHOUSE$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %041-212404; leenaguesthouse@hotmail.com; Th Chaokeen; r 60,000-100,000K; paiW)

Fairy-lit Leena is something of a motel with kitsch decor in comfortable peach-coloured, clean rooms with tiled floors, hot-water showers, TVs and a pleasant breakfast area where you can pick up wi-fi. An oldie but goodie, the air-con rooms are larger and fresher looking. There's also a cafe.

5Eating

Choose between sidewalk cafes, French restaurants and riverside snack and drink vendors ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; h5-10pm) for cheap quick eats.

oLin's CaféINTERNATIONAL$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Th Latsaphanith; mains 40,000K; h8am-8pm; Wv)

Savannakhet's number one traveller fave, this delightful cafe sits in a former 1930s Chinese merchant's house and is loved for its easy vibe, soporific water feature, friendly staff, reservoir of local information, retro eclectic interior and gallery upstairs. But most of all... the nutty smooth cappuccinos, thai green curry, tasty beef burgers, fruit salad, fresh pastry...we could go on!

Chai DeeJAPANESE, INTERNATIONAL$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %030-5003336; www.cafechaidee.com; Th Ratsavongsouk; mains 30,000K; h9am-9.30pm Mon-Sat ; Wv)

This spotless Japanese cafe has rattan mats to lounge on, a book exchange and a wide menu of samosas, homemade yoghurt, Thai food and tofu, plus healthy shakes. Great breakfasts too. Expect super-fresh, well-presented food, quick wi-fi and warm service.

Xokxay RestaurantLAOTIAN$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Th Si Muang; mains 20,000K; h9am-9pm; v)

This cheap-as-chips hole in the wall near the Catholic church dishes up authentic tasty Laotian food, including noodle dishes, fried rice, salads and crispy fried shrimp.

8Information

Eco Guide UnitTOURIST INFORMATION

( GOOGLE MAP ; %041-214203; Th Latsaphanith; h8am-noon & 1-4.30pm Mon-Fri)

The industrious eco-guide unit provides information ranging from bookings for treks to Dong Natad PPA and Dong Phu Vieng NPA, to bus times, accommodation and where to get a decent massage or hire a motorbike (not both at the same time!).

Provincial HospitalHOSPITAL

( GOOGLE MAP ; %020 2601993, 041-212717; Th Khanthabuli; h8am-12pm & 1-4pm)

Ask for English-speaking Dr Outhon.

Provincial Tourism OfficeTOURIST INFORMATION

( GOOGLE MAP ; %041-212755; Th Muang Sing; h8-11.30am & 1.30-4.30pm)

With helpful city maps and English-speaking staff with suggestions of things to do from food to local sights.

8Getting There & Away

Savannakhet's airport fields daily flights to and from Vientiane (US$128), Pakse (US$75) and Bangkok (US$155). Buy tickets at the Lao Airlines ( GOOGLE MAP ; %041-212140; Savannakhet Airport; h6.30am-4.30pm) office.

Savannakhet's bus terminal (%041-212143) is 2km north of the centre of town on Th Makkasavan. Buses leave for Vientiane (75,000K, nine hours, 470km) hourly from 6am to 11.30am. Thereafter you'll have to catch buses headed to Pakse that pass through Tha Khaek (30,000K, 2½ to four hours, 125km) until 10pm. A sleeper VIP bus to Vientiane (120,000K, six to seven hours) leaves at 9.30pm.

Heading south, at least 10 buses start here or pass through from Vientiane for Pakse (45,000K, five to six hours, 230km) and a daily bus to Don Khong (80,000K, six to eight hours) leaves at 7pm.

Buses for Dansavanh (60,000K, five to seven hours) on the Lao/Vietnamese border leave at 7am, 8.30am and 11am, stopping at Sepon (50,000K, four to six hours). A daily local bus heads to Hué (90,000K), while a VIP bus (110,000K) runs Monday to Friday at 10.30am. A bus to Danang (110,000K) leaves Tuesday, Thursday and Saturday at 10pm, continuing to Hanoi (200,000K, 24 hours, 650km).

GETTING TO VIETNAM: SAVANNAKHET TO DONG HA

Getting to the Border Crossing the Dansavanh (Laos)/Lao Bao (Vietnam) border is a relatively easy exercise. From Savannakhet buses leave for Dansavanh (60,000K, four to six hours, 236km) at 7am, 8.30am and 11am. Alternatively, if you’re passing this way it’s worth breaking the trip for a night in Sepon (50,000K, four hours) as a base for seeing the Ho Chi Minh Trail. The bus station in Dansavanh is about 1km short of the border: Vietnamese teenagers on motorbikes can take you the remainder of the journey for about 20,000K.

At the border Vietnam visas must be arranged in advance, which can be done at the Vietnam consulate in Savannakhet. The border is open from 7am to 6pm.

Moving on Once through take a motorbike (15,000d) 2km to the Lao Bao bus terminal and transport to Dong Ha (50,000d, two hours, 80km) on Vietnam’s main north–south highway and railway. Simple accommodation is available on both sides of the border. If you’re in a hurry just grab a bus from Savannakhet bound for the Vietnamese cities of Dong Ha, Hue and Danang. For information on doing this crossing in reverse, see here.

8Getting Around

A tuk-tuk to the bus terminal will cost about 20,000K; prices double after dark. The town is fairly sprawled out so it might be a good idea to rent a scooter (70,000K) from Souannavong Guest House. Hire bikes (10,000K) along Th Ratsavongseuk.

Pakse ປາກ​ເຊ້

%031 / Pop 75,000

Wilting under the force of the unrelenting southern sun, this sprawling riverside city is showing signs of gentrification with new bakeries and upscale restaurants constantly opening, and acquits itself well to travellers with an efficiently run tourist office, a couple of tour companies and myriad guesthouses.

Those destined for the Four Thousand Islands and to Cambodia beyond will unavoidably stay here. Thanks to Green Discovery's Tree Top Explorer ziplining adventure, the city's proximity to beguiling Khmer ruins, Wat Phu, and also the Bolaven Plateau coffee-growing region with its Edenic waterfalls, Pakse makes for a useful springboard.

Pakse

2Activities, Courses & Tours

1Dok Champa MassageB3

2Green DiscoveryB2

3Xplore-AsiaC4

4Sleeping

4Alisa GuesthouseD4

5Kaesme Guest HouseB1

6Sabaidy 2 GuesthouseC1

5Eating

7Daolin RestaurantC2

8Friendship MinimartD4

9Jasmine RestaurantC4

10Lankham Noodle ShopC4

11Le PanoramaB2

12Mengky Noodle ShopD4

13Parisien CaféA3

14Xuan Mai RestaurantB2

8Information

Lankham Hotel Currency Exchange CounterC4

1Sights & Activities

Champasak Historical Heritage MuseumMUSEUM

(ພິພິດທະພັນມໍລະດົກປະຫວັດສາດຈຳປາສັກ GOOGLE MAP ; Rte 13; admission 10,000K; h8-11.30am & 1-4pm Mon-Fri)

This museum features ancient Dong Son bronze drums, a 7th-century Siam-style sandstone buddha head, and a textile and jewellery collection from the Nyaheun, Suay and Laven groups, interesting for its large iron ankle bracelets and ivory ear plugs. Also on display are musical instruments, stelae in Tham script dating from the 15th to 18th centuries, a small lingam (Shiva phallus), a scale model of Wat Phu Champasak, and some American UXOs (unexploded ordnances).

Dok Champa MassageMASSAGE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Th 5; massages from 40,000K, body scrub 200,000K; h9am-10pm)

Again and again Dok Champa comes out on top as the favourite Pakse spa, thanks to its friendly staff, oils, and bespoke service offering you exactly the level of robust or soft pampering your weary muscles require.

TTours

Most hotels and guesthouses can arrange day trips to the Bolaven Plateau, Wat Phu Champasak and Si Phan Don (Four Thousand Islands). The provincial tourism office also arranges community-based two- or three-day treks in Se Pian NPA and Phou Xieng Thong NPA, involving kayaking and camping combos, as well as homestays on Don Kho and Don Daeng.

Green DiscoveryADVENTURE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %031-252908; www.greendiscoverylaos.com; Th 10; 2-day Tree Top Explorer tour 2-/4-person group per person US$280/217)

Green Discovery's signature tour is the Tree Top Explorer adventure in Dong Hua Sao NPA near Paksong on the Bolaven Plateau. It consists of two or three days' ziplining, canopy walks and jungle trekking. Accommodation is in eco-friendly huts set high up above the forest floor. There's lots more on offer in the region – check the website.

Xplore-AsiaADVENTURE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %031-251983; www.xplore-laos.com; Th 14; h9am-7pm)

Xplore-Asia specialises in multiday adventures, including trips to the Bolaven Plateau (U$20 per person) and to Wat Phu (US$45). English-speaking guides are US$35 to US$50 per day. Also sells some interesting books and guidebooks to the region.

4Sleeping

oAlisa GuesthouseHOTEL$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %031-251555; www.alisa-guesthouse.com; Rte 13; s/d/tr 110,000/120,000/150,000K; aiW)

Well located in the heart of the tourist zone, Alisa has sparkling rooms, tiled floors (clean enough to eat your lunch off!), fresh linen, solid wood beds, armoires and flat-screens as well as private bathrooms. Add working sat TV and a fridge.

oSabaidy 2 GuesthouseGUESTHOUSE$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %031-212992; www.sabaidy2tour.com; Th 24; dm 35,000K, s/d without bathroom 45,000/70,000, d with bathroom & air-con 138,000K; iW)

Exuding an easy, relaxed vibe, Sabaidy is based in a wood house and has clean dorms and doubles. The new private rooms out back are terrific; think wooden balcony, beneath which swim coy carp, rustic chic interiors, private bathroom, desk and air-con. There's a communal area to swap tales in the garden, free breakfast, and helpful staff can organise onward travel.

Kaesme Guest HouseGUESTHOUSE$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %020 99481616; Se Don riverfront; r with fan/air-con 70,000/100,000K; aW)

With its riverside position and rickety reading sun deck shipwrecked over the bank, this friendly house at the end of a lane has clean and simple rooms with fan or air-con. Towels and soap are a nice bonus at these prices. Friendly owner.

5Eating

Chow down with locals at the Lankham Noodle Shop ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; under the Lankham Hotel, Rte 13; noodles 15,000-25,000K; h7am-10pm; W) and at the Mengky Noodle Shop ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Rte 13; meals 8000-15,000K; h7am-10pm). Self-caterers can head to the Friendship Minimart ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Rte 13; h8am-8pm).

Daolin RestaurantLAOTIAN, INTERNATIONAL$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Rte 13; mains 20,000-30,000K; h6.30am-10pm)

Catching any whisper of a breeze (you'll be lucky!), open-air Daolin is run by lovely people attentive to your preferred levels of spiciness. Breakfast, lunch and dinner expect a spectrum of nicely executed Vietnamese, Thai, Lao and Western dishes, among them: sandwiches, steak, salad, spicy chicken with lemongrass, sundaes...and many more.

Jasmine RestaurantINDIAN$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Rte 13; mains 20,000-30,000K; h8am-10pm; v)

In all the years we've sampled Jasmine, it's never been less than bulging with happy customers. Veggies delight over dishes like green peas masala and aloo bhaiga (eggplant and potatoes), while the sizzling chicken tikka masala is so tasty you'll be wiping the bowl with the pillow-soft naan. Eat in or out.

Parisien CaféCAFE$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Th 9; juices 40,000K; h7am-10pm)

This bright new cafe-cum-bakery is infused with sunlight and puts a calorific sugar-coated spring in your step with its fresh cakes, donuts, pastries, and juices. Cement rendered walls, exposed brick and comfy modern seating.

Xuan Mai RestaurantLAOTIAN, VIETNAMESE$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Th 5; mains 18,000-30,000K; h6am-11.30pm)

Super-fresh Vietnamese-run Xuan Mai serves freshly prepared fĕr (rice noodles), năam néuang (pork balls), kòw Ъûn (white flour noodles with sweet-spicy sauce), mekong fish, spring rolls, fruit shakes and even garlic bread. The house lahp (meat salad) is full of zing too. Eat in or out, and if you have time take one of its cooking classes.

6Drinking & Nightlife

Wander down the Mekong riverfront and stop at a terrace bar for a beer. Alternatively, nurse a Bloody Mary on the Parisien-style rooftop Panorama Bar ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Th 5; mains 30,000-70,000K; h4.30-10pm; W) at the Pakse Hotel.

8Information

ATMs are strung out along Rte 13, including an ANZ machine outside the Lankham Hotel on Rte 13. The Lankham also has a useful currency exchange counter ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; h7am-7pm) that offers decent rates and does cash advances on Visa cards.

International Hitech PolyclinicMEDICAL

(VIP Clinic; GOOGLE MAP ; %031-214712; ihpc_lao@yahoo.com; Th 46; h24hr)

Adjacent to the public hospital, with English-speaking staff and much higher standards of care, service and facilities, plus a pharmacy.

Lao Development BankBANK

( GOOGLE MAP ; Rte 13; h8am-4pm Mon-Fri, to 3pm Sat & Sun)

Changes cash and travellers cheques. Also houses a Western Union (money transfers only available weekdays).

Miss Noy's Internet & Bike RentalINTERNET

( GOOGLE MAP ; Rte 13; per day bikes/scooters 15,000/ 60,000K; h7am-8pm)

Witty Miss Noy and her husband rent reliable, well-maintained scooters and bikes.

Provincial Tourism OfficeTOURIST INFORMATION

( GOOGLE MAP ; %031-212021; Th 11; h8am-noon & 1.30-4pm)

The well-organised English-speaking staff can book you onto community-based two- or three-day treks in Se Pian NPA and Phou Xieng Thong NPA, involving kayaking and camping combos; and homestays on Don Kho and Don Daeng. They dole out maps of Pakse and southern Laos and are also armed with all the latest schedules for buses heading anywhere from Pakse.

UnitelTELEPHONE

( GOOGLE MAP ; Rte 13; h8am-5pm Mon-Fri, to noon Sat)

A convenient stop for a local SIM card if you are just arriving in Laos. Staff can set your smart phone up with 3G internet.

8Getting There & Away

Air

Lao Airlines flies twice daily between Pakse and Vientiane (one way US$125, 70 minutes), and thrice weekly to Luang Prabang (US$172, one hour 40 minutes), as well as Savannakhet (US$65, 30 minutes) four times per week. Internationally there are four weekly flights to Ho Chi Minh City (US$175), and Bangkok (US$170) and daily flights to Siem Reap (US$160). A tuk-tuk to the airport from Pakse costs 30,000K, a taxi US$18.

Purchase your ticket online or at the Lao Airlines (%031-212252; www.laoairlines.com; Pakse Airport; h7am-noon & 1-5pm Mon-Fri, 7am-noon Sat) office at the airport.

Boat

A tourist boat to Champasak (%020 22705955; per boat US$80 per boat, per person for 10 people US$8) (70,000K, two hours) leaves Pakse at 8.30am, provided there are enough punters. The return trip from Champasak is at 1.30pm. Skipper Mr Khamlao can also take you to Four Thousand Islands. Book ahead.

Bus & Sŏrngtăaou

Confusingly, Pakse has several bus and sŏrngtăaou terminals. 'Sleeper' VIP buses leave from the 2km bus station (VIP Bus Station; GOOGLE MAP ; %031-212428; Rte 13, Km2) off Rte 13, for Vientiane (170,000K, eight to 10 hours, 677km) every evening. The same bus passes through Tha Khaek (140,000K, 4½ hours). The handy Thai–Lao International Bus, which heads to Bangkok (800B, 3pm) and Ubon (200B) also departs from here. It's also possible to buy a combo bus/sleeper train ticket to Bangkok (280,000K) from Pakse travel agents.

From the northern bus terminal (Rte 13), sometimes referred to as 'Km7 bus terminal', agonisingly sweltering local buses crawl north every 40 minutes or so between 6.30am and 4pm for Savannakhet (40,000K, four to five hours, 277km), Tha Khaek (70,000K, eight to nine hours) and, for those with a masochistic streak, Vientiane (110,000K, 16 to 18 hours). Fancier air-con buses also leave for Vientiane (140,000K, 10 to 12 hours) throughout the day from the southern bus terminal (Rte 13). Daily buses for Vietnam's Danang (220,000K, 18 hours) leave here daily at 7am, and Hué at 6.30pm (180,000K, 15½ hours).

For buses or sŏrngtăaou anywhere south or east, head to the southern bus terminal, also known as 'Km8 bus terminal'. It costs 40,000K per tuk-tuk to get there. For Si Phan Don, transport departs for Muang Khong on Don Khong island (including ferry 50,000K, three hours, 120km) between 8.30am and 3pm, and for Ban Nakasang (for Don Det and Don Khon; 50,000K, three to four hours) hourly between 7.30am and 4pm. A sŏrngtăaou runs to Kiet Ngong (Xe Pian NPA) and Ban Phapho (40,000K, two to three hours) at 1pm.

To the Bolaven Plateau, transport leaves the southern bus terminal for Paksong (25,000K, 90 minutes) hourly between 7am and 4pm, stopping at Tat Fan if you ask. For Tat Lo take the Salavan bus (40,000K, three to four hours, five daily).

Regular buses and sŏrngtăaou leave Talat Dao Heung (New Market) for Champasak (25,000K, one to two hours).

GETTING TO THAILAND: SOUTHERN BORDERS

SAVANNAKHET TO MUKDAHAN

Getting to the border Regular buses (15,000K, 45 minutes) leave Savannakhet's bus station and cross the new Friendship Bridge for Thailand's Mukdahan between 8.15am and 7pm. Buses leave Mukdahan's bus station (50B, 45 minutes) roughly every hour from 7.30am till 7pm.

At the border This is a well-organised, busy border (open 6am to 10pm). A free 15-day tourist visa is given on entering Thailand. Note that to obtain a 30-day Thai visa, you'll need to arrive in the country by air.

Moving on Onward from Mukdahan, there are five daily buses bound for Bangkok between 5.30pm and 8.15pm. For information on doing this crossing in reverse, see here.

PAKSE TO UBON RATCHATHANI

Getting to the border Heading to the busy Vang Tao/Chong Mek border (open 6am to 8pm) is straightforward if catching a sŏrngtăaou from Pakse (10,000K per person, 75 minutes, 37km). Alternatively, take the 8.30am or 3.30pm Thai–Lao international bus (200B, three hours, 126km) to Ubon Ratchathani (Thailand) from Pakse's 2km bus terminal (also known as the VIP bus terminal and the Kriang Kai bus station).

At the border There are ATMs on the Thai side, a market and restaurants. You have to walk a bit between the two posts but in general it's hassle free. Free 15-day visa waivers are granted on arrival in Thailand.

Moving on The Thai–Lao international bus continues on to Bangkok (800B, 14 hours). From Chong Mek to Ubon (80km, 1½ hours) costs 60B by bus, while taxi drivers charge between 1000B and 1200B. For information on doing this crossing in reverse, see here.

8Getting Around

A jumbo to the airport, 3km northwest of town, should cost about 30,000K. Pakse's main attractions are accessible by foot. Bicycles/scooters (around 15,000/60,000K per day) can be hired from Miss Noy's Internet & Bike Rental

Champasak ຈຳປາສັກ

%031 / Pop 14,000

Languid, riverine Champasak hums with the chirrup of schoolkids on bicycles, the slow turn of the Mekong, and a handful of restaurants in faded old French villas leading up to the main course of whimsical Wat Phu. Backed by a mountain flanked in leprechaun-green rice paddies, Champasak is currently redefining 'rustic escape', for here you can enjoy chillsome digs, a quality massage and spa, yoga, meditation and shadow puppet theatre, all at a price that will slow your pulse without straining your wallet.

1Sights & Activities

Wat Phu ChampasakBUDDHIST TEMPLE

(admission 50,000K; hsite 8am-6pm, museum 8am-4.30pm)

Bucolic Wat Phu sits in graceful decrepitude, and while it lacks the arresting enormity of Angkor in Cambodia, given its few visitors and more dramatic natural setting, these small Khmer ruins evoke a more soulful response. While some buildings are more than 1000 years old, most date from the 11th to 13th centuries. The site is divided into six terraces on three levels joined by a frangipani-bordered stairway flanked by stone lions and naga; flowing down from the mountain to the barays.

Visit early morning for cooler temperatures and capturing the ruins in the best light.

oShadow Puppet Theatre & Cinéma TuktukTHEATRE

(www.cinema-tuktuk.org; Main St, beside Tourist Office; 50,000K; h8.30pm-10pm)

Run by Frenchman Yves Bernard, this magical theatre tells the story of the epic Ramyana using the ancient art of shadow puppets. On alternate nights it screens the enchanting silent film Chang (1924), made here in Laos by the director of Hollywood's original King Kong. What makes it so perfect is the presence of live musicians providing the soundtrack. At time of writing there was talk of the 8.30pm slot changing to an earlier time.

Champasak SpaSPA

(%020 56499739; www.champasak-spa.com; massages 90,000-150,000K; h10am-noon & 1-7pm)S

Run by Natalie, this is a fragrant oasis of free tea and sensitively executed treatments using locally grown and sourced organic bio products. Creating jobs for local women, the spa offers yoga and free dawn meditation sessions (but you must book ahead). A full-day spa package comprising facial, bodyscrub, hair spa and massage costs 550,000K.

4Sleeping & Eating

Anouxa GuesthouseGUESTHOUSE$

(%031-511006; Main St; r with fan 60,000K, with air-con 100,000, tr with air-con 150,000K; paW)

Set in a garden thick with mango trees and trilling birdsong, Anouxa has mint-green cool rooms with private bathroom, mozzie nets, Hmong tapestries, balcony and lush river views. There's also a tempting riverside restaurant. It rents bikes for 10,000K to 20,000K.

oNakorn RestaurantTHAI$

(Main St; mains: 30,000K; h7am-9pm)

This stylish new cafe and restaurant by the river promises to be stunning when finished; with a chic, open chilling library room, handsome bar and salas dotted around a landscaped garden flickering with burning tapers. Its Asian fusion menu is already winning plaudits for its tasty lahp, pad thai, and steak and chips. Lovely owners, lovely food.

Champasak with LoveFUSION$

( GOOGLE MAP ; Main St; mains 20,000-40,000K, r with fan/air-con 60,000/100,000K; h8am-10pm; v)

This banana-yellow eatery has a marvellous riverfront patio made of solid wood where Thai and Western food is served with a smile. Brownies, fruit salad, sandwiches, plenty of veggie options and breakfast. Bicycle rental is available and it now has a couple of basic, wood-accented rooms in the creaky old house.

Frice and Lujane RestaurantITALIAN$$

( GOOGLE MAP ; Main St; mains 450,000-65,000K; h5-9pm)

Enjoy cuisine inspired by Italy's Friulian Alpine region, at the most recent incarnation of this swish restaurant, in a lovely villa by the Mekong. Gnocchi, marinated pork ribs, goulash and homemade sausage grace the menu.

8Getting There & Around

Regular buses and sŏrngtăaou run between Champasak and Pakse (20,000K, one hour) from about 7am until 9am. A boat for Pakse leaves at 8.30am (on demand). Book it through your guesthouse (50,000K).

If you're heading south to Ban Nakasang (for Don Det) or Muang Khong (on Don Khong), a minivan leaves at 8.30am (70,000K).

Bicycles (per day 15,000K) and scooters (per half-/full day 50,000/80,000K) can be hired from guesthouses.

Si Phan Don (Four Thousand Islands) ສີ່​ພັນ​ດອນ

%031

This beguiling archipelago of islets is the emerald jewel near the end of the Mekong's 4350km journey. The river passes around thousands of sandbars sprouting with sugar palms, and provided you're here from December through to July, after the rain season when Mother Mekong is churned chocolate-brown, expect to be dazzled by soul-affirming turquoise-green water. Between tubing, kayaking and cycling around the three main islands – Don Khong, and sister islands Don Det and Don Khon – spotting the rare Irrawaddy dolphin or visiting waterfalls, there's little to do but hammock-dwell.

Don Khong ດອນ​ໂຂງ

Pop 13,000

Life moves slowly on Don Khong, an 18km-long, 8km-wide sleepy idyll where fishing nets dry in the sun, the turquoise Mekong slips by and locals barely look up from their Beerlao to register your arrival. Its main settlement is Muang Khong, a one-street affair with a couple of guesthouses and restaurants.

4Sleeping & Eating

There are a few great-value oases at which to rest your bones; all of them are located in Muang Khong.

oRatana Riverside GuesthouseGUESTHOUSE$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %020 22201618, 031-213673; vongdonekhong@hotmail.com; r 100,000K, mains 25,000-40,000K; aW)

The four comfortable river-facing rooms here enjoy a desk, marble floor, balcony, Siberian air-con and handsome furnishings. Ground-floor rooms have enormous windows close to the road so get one upstairs. The river-deck restaurant has a selection of Western food.

Khong View GuesthouseGUESTHOUSE$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %020 22446449; r with fan/air-con 80,000/100,000K; aW)

It's hard to beat the location of this place, where the rooms are set around a breezy wood deck overlooking a big bend in the Mekong. Choose between dark woody riverfront rooms or bright tiled rooms at the back, facing the road. The small rooms have disproportionally large king-sized beds. No restaurant.

Villa Kang KhongGUESTHOUSE$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %020 22403315, 020 29252811; r 70,000K)

This creaky old teak house is an atmospheric old-timer with wicker chairs in its shady lounge to chill on, and lovely rooms with polished floors, mahogany beds, colourful linen and private bathrooms and air-con. The most romantic budget digs in town.

8Information

One road back from the river, 400m south of Wat Phuang Kaew, the Agricultural Promotion Bank ( GOOGLE MAP ; h8.30am-3.30pm Mon-Fri) exchanges travellers cheques and cash and has an ATM that works with VIsa and MasterCard. There's also a BCEL ATM next to the post office. For medical complaints, the hospital is a little further south of the bank; ask for English- and French-speaking Dr Bounthavi.

The Don Khong Tourism Office ( GOOGLE MAP ; %020 97846464, 029-250303; panhjuki@yahoo.com; h8.30am-4pm Mon-Fri) can organise boats to Don Khon and Don Det (250,000K).

8Getting There & Away

From Don Khong to Pakse, buses (60,000K including ferry, 2½ to three hours, 128km) and sŏrngtăaou leave from Hat Xai Khun over the river on the mainland. Be there by 11am.

For those heading to Cambodia, there's usually a 9am connection to Stung Treng, Kratie, Ban Lung, Siem Reap and Phnom Penh.

There are regular boats between Hat Xai Khun and Don Khong's Muang Khong town – 15,000K per person.

Boats for Don Det and Don Khon (250,000K per boat, 1½ hours, up to six passengers) leave when you stump up the cash – boatmen are under the tree near the bridge.

GETTING TO CAMBODIA: SI PHAN DON TO STUNG TRENG

Getting to the border Many travellers from the Four Thousand Islands take a minibus and pass through the Nong Nok Khiene/Trapeang Kriel border to Cambodia. From Pakse catch the Sorya Penh Transport bus which leaves at 7.30am from the VIP (Km2) bus terminal (also known as the Kriang Kai bus station) and goes to Phnom Penh (US$27, 12 to 14 hours) via Stung Treng (US$15, 4½ hours) and Kratie (US$20, seven hours) in Cambodia.

At the border Thirty-day tourist visas for Cambodia are available at the border and cost around US$25. You'll also pay US$2 for a cursory medical inspection.

Moving on If you're not on a direct bus, head to Stung Treng to catch a bus to Phnom Penh, Siem Reap and Ban Lung. Taxis from the border cost US$40. For information on doing this crossing in reverse, see here.

8Getting Around

Bicycles/scooters (10,000/40,000K per day) can be hired from guesthouses and elsewhere along the main street.

Don Det & Don Khon ດອນ​ເດດ/ດອນ​ຄອນ

While many choose to hammock-flop here, there are loads of inexpensive activities to busy yourself with, be it cycling, tubing and kayaking by day, or relaxing in the river bars come sunset. Expect to see fishermen in pirogues, doe-eyed buffalo in the shallows and villagers taking morning ablutions. By night, campfires burn on the beach and conversation flows.

A tropical yin and yang, Don Det is overcrowded with falang – particularly by the ferry point of Ban Hua Det (known as 'Sunrise Boulevard') – while sultry Don Khon is quieter, teems with rapids, and rare Irrawaddy dolphins swim off its southern tip.

1Sights

Most sights are on Don Khon and are accessed on a bicycle hired from just about any guesthouse for 10,000K per day. When you cross the French bridge to Don Khon, you will be asked to pay 35,000K. This covers the entrance fee to Li Phi Falls.

Tat SomphamitWATERFALL

(ຕາດສົມພາມິດ, Li Phi Falls GOOGLE MAP ; admission 35,000K; hticket booth 8am-5pm)

Located 1.5km downriver from the French bridge on Don Khon, Tat Somphamit – aka Li Phi Falls – is a raging set of rapids. Li Phi means 'spirit trap' and locals believe the falls act as just that – a trap for bad spirits as they wash down the river. Local fishermen risk their skin edging out onto rocks in the violent flow of the cascades to empty bamboo traps, each of which can catch half a tonne of fish a day.

There are plenty of restaurants and concession stands at the falls entrance.

HOW'S YOUR FOOTPRINT?

Are there slightly less smiles from locals these days? If that's the case it's probably the hangover from the island offering itself as a stoner haven before realising the price to pay. Thankfully, things have turned around in the last five years, with the island cultivating a range of activities such as cycling and kayaking, and eschewing 'happifying' menus. Remember that the impact you make on the islanders – hopefully a good one – will radiate directly to those travellers who follow in your footsteps.

Note also that the locals find the revealing of flesh culturally offensive, so it’s best to wear more than a bikini around the island.

2Activities

A pod of rare Irrawaddy dolphins hangs out beneath the rapids in a wide pool known as Boong Pa Gooang, off the south tip of Don Khon. Boats are chartered (60,000K, maximum three people) for one-hour trips from the old French landing pier in Ban Hang Khon. Sightings are regular year-round, but the best viewing is from January to May. Try to go early evening or first thing in the morning, when sightings are more regular.

Full-day kayaking tours (180,000K per person) combined with taking in the dolphin pool and Khon Phapeng Falls (ຕາດຄອນພະເພັງ GOOGLE MAP ; admission 35,000K) are the norm; starting at 9.30am you kayak first, then are picked up before the falls off Don Khon, and you and your kayaks are transported overland to Ban Hang Khon. Wonderful Tours ( GOOGLE MAP ; %020 55705173; combo kayak, waterfall & dolphin 1-day trip per person 180,000K) is useful.

Renting a kayak to paddle around on your own costs around 50,000K per day, but don't go past the French bridge or you'll hit the fast currents that feed into the lethal falls. The same rule applies to inner tubes, which cost 10,000K (avoid these during the monsoon when the river runs dangerously fast).

Guesthouses offer sunset boat cruises and full-day island hops. Prices vary, but figure on 50,000K to 75,000K per person provided you have a few people.

Finally there's a stylish 18m-long swimming pool at Little Eden Guesthouse (Little Eden Guesthouse, Sunset side, Ban Hua Det; admission 50,000K) to take laps, float or enjoy a drink at its poolside bar.

On Don Khon, Lao Garden Massage (%020 9367136; halfway up Don Khon; ½/1hr 50,000/70,000K; h9am-11pm) offers treatments in an ice-cool room.

4Sleeping

Don Det's 'Sunrise Boulevard' on the northern tip is claustrophobic and noisy, but if you want to keep the party going (at least till the 11pm curfew) head here. More upscale digs are further south and over on sedate Don Khon.

In low season prices drop by around 25%.

Don Det

River GardenGUESTHOUSE$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %020 77701860; Sunrise, 300m short of French bridge; r with shared/private bathroom 30,000/50,000, large cabana 100,000K; W)

Gay-friendly River Garden brings a whiff of budget style to Don Det. Think carved-wood doors and windows, tidy bathrooms, Lao textiles, bamboo lamps, seductive maroon-stained walls and twin hammocks outside each bungalow. Opposite them is a shaded riverfront terrace restaurant with a Western and Asian fusion menu.

Easy Go HostelGUESTHOUSE$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %020 578228309; Sunset side, last house on left; dm 35,000K, bungalow with fan/air-con 60,000/70,000K)

Way down south on Sunset side this lovely guesthouse is based around a courtyard garden with dorms for five and three, and shared bathroom cabanas with hammock. Over by the river there's a chillsome deck facing Cambodia, and a beach for shallow dips. Look out for the tree studded with global direction signs.

Sengthavan Guesthouse & RestaurantGUESTHOUSE$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %020 56132696; Sunset Blvd; r 100,000K; W)

Probably the best the Sunset side has to offer in the budget range, Sengthavan's powder-blue en suite rooms are fastidiously clean and enjoy uncluttered balcony views of Cambodia. Its low-key cafe has recliner cushions, checked tablecloths and a Lao and Western menu.

Last ResortRESORT$

( GOOGLE MAP ; mrwatkinsonlives@googlemail.com; d/tr 50,000/60,000K)

This teepee 'resort' in a field about a 15-minute walk south of the main Sunset Blvd strip embraces the natural life, with the owner growing veggies and baking bread. Made with natural materials, the teepees are in the shade of mature trees, and there's a barbecue and shared bathroom. Alfresco movies are screened come evening

Green GuesthouseGUESTHOUSE$

(%020 91803519; road btwn Sunset & Sunrise, Ban Hua Det; r with fan/air-con 100,000/130,000K; aiW)

Very much the new face of Don Det accommodation, these unapologetically fresh, plush rooms are in a white house with bathroom, fan, wi-fi and communal balcony fronting a betel-studded rice paddy.

oBa Ba GuesthouseGUESTHOUSE$$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %020 98893943; www.dondet.net; Sunrise central, Ban Hua Det; r 200,000-300,000K; aW)

This beautiful new guesthouse looks out on the Mekong on one side, and emerald paddy fields on the other. Rooms are sleekly white and luxurious, with private balcony, tasteful decor and spotless bathroom. There's also a cafe serving spring rolls, pasta and tasty breakfast. A new terraced restaurant is being built over the river. Owner Basil and wife are the perfect hosts. Blissful.

oLittle Eden GuesthouseGUESTHOUSE$$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %030-5346020; www.littleedenguesthouse-dondet.com; Ban Hua Det; r 320,000K; aiWsc)

Don Det's most luxurious complex is set in lush sugar palm gardens on the northern tip. Fragrant rooms tempt with contemporary darkwood furniture, polished wood floors, flat-screen, fridge, desk and stunning granite bathroom. Better still, the hotel has a beautiful free 18m-long swimming pool, a bar, and a brand new restaurant.

Don Khon

Pa Ka GuesthouseGUESTHOUSE$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %055-847522; Don Khon riverfront; r with fan/air-con 80,000/100,000K; aW)

Great-value new digs with welcoming, clean rooms with bathroom and balcony. There's also a natty cafe in the garden courtyard. Wi-fi in rooms.

oAuberge Sala Done KhoneBOUTIQUE HOTEL$$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %031-260940; www.saladonekhone.salalao.com; r incl breakfast US$15-35; aiWs)

In a handsomely renovated French-era hospital in large gardens, this belle delights with four-poster beds, mozzie nets, and art-deco-signatured rooms. Outside are spotless A-frame bungalows built in the classic Lao style with ambient-lit, minimalist interiors, while out on the river the Sala Phae ( GOOGLE MAP ; r US$60) wing features equally stylish floating cottages with bio-safe toilets.

Pan's GuesthouseGUESTHOUSE$$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %020 23655151; www.donkhone.com; garden/riverfront d 150,000/180,000K, tr 220,000K; aiW)

Enticing riverside bungalows flickering with butterflies finished in solid stained wood with creamy white rattan interiors, immaculate bathrooms and balconies slung with hammocks. Spring for a riverfront room. Wi-fi is in the restaurant only. There's also a travel office here to book tours and forward travel. Dependable.

5Eating & Drinking

oFour Thousand SunsetsFUSION$

( GOOGLE MAP ; Don Khon; mains 35,000K; h8am-11pm; Wv)

Aptly named, this floating restaurant lowers your pulse with the metronomic flow of the river and is effortlessly chic with its old-world style. Steamed and grilled fresh river fish, Thai fish cakes, Lao smoking sausage and pork stir fry are just a few of the options. Treat yourself to a vodka martini as you drink up the amber sunset.

Street View RestaurantPIZZA$

( GOOGLE MAP ; Sunrise Blvd, halfway down, Don Det; mains 30,000K; h8am-11pm)

This attractive wooden riverside haunt has chilling decks and a long, well-stocked bar. Tuck into fresh-cut barbecued Australian steak, mouthwatering wood-fired pizza, barbecued chicken, Mekong fish, beef chops, burgers, salads and healthy breakfasts. Seven minutes' walk from Ban Hua Det.

Crazy GeckoLAOTIAN$

( GOOGLE MAP ; www.crazygecko.ch; Sunrise, halfway down; mains 25,000K; h7am-10pm)

Lit by ropes of fairy lights by night, this riverside restaurant has tables and decks with scatter cushions to chill in. There's board games, pool table and hammocks for rainy days, and delicious Asian and Western food including pasta and lahp. Deservedly one of the most popular spots on the island.

Jasmine RestaurantINDIAN$

( GOOGLE MAP ; Sunrise Blvd, Ban Hua Det; mains 20,000-35,000K)

With tables next to the river, this Indian restaurant (and sibling of the excellent Jasmine in Pakse) packs them in with its consistently tasty Malay and Indian fare, and melt-in-your-mouth naan. Friendly service, run by warm people.

oLittle Eden RestaurantLAOTIAN, INTERNATIONAL$$

( GOOGLE MAP ; Ban Hua Det, Don Det; mains 40,000-60,000K; W)

Catching the breeze from the tip of the island, Little Eden's stunning new restaurant is one of the best places to eat upmarket Laotian and Western cuisine. Think tender New Zealand beef steak, spaghetti Bolognese and fish lahp, to name a few. It's also the only place to sell Mekong catfish (not the endangered giant catfish!).

4000 Island BarBAR

( GOOGLE MAP ; Sunrise Blvd, Don Det)

Near the boat landing with a pool table and desert island decor – think Swiss Family Robinson meets The Beach – this is the thumping heart of Ban Hua Det. While it officially closes before midnight, it's likely to stay open unofficially until 1am.

8Information

There is no bank, so take the ferry over to Ban Nakasang, which has a BCEL with an ATM. Little Eden Guesthouse on Don Det will do cash advances on your card for a 5% commission.

Ban Nakasang is also the place to go for medical and postal services.

8Getting There & Around

Boats regularly leave Don Det for Ban Nakasang (per person/boat 15,000/30,000K). You can charter a private boat to Don Khong from Paradise Bungalows for 75,000K per person with a minimum of two people.

For Pakse (70,000K, 2½ to three hours, 148km), VIP minibuses leave Ban Nakasang at around 11am, while sŏrngtăaou (40,000K, 3½ hours) leave early morning up until 9am. Wonderful Tours organises daily VIP buses to Stung Treng (US$24), Ban Lung (US$24), Kratie (US$23), Phnom Penh (US$30)) and Siem Reap (US$35) in Cambodia (which leave Ban Nakasang at about 9.30am).

Understand Laos

Laos Today

In 2011, despite widespread global gloom, Laos' economy reported a growth of 8%, one of the strongest in Asia, thanks to its ambitious hydroelectric power sector. Around 85 dams, many of which are already built, are to be constructed around the country. By 2020 Laos hopes to produce 12,500 megawatts of power annually.

China is now Laos' best mate: ever the opportunist, it has moved in to grab what it can in return for improving Laos' transport infrastructure, while many Lao children are eagerly encouraged by middle-class parents to learn Chinese. Beijing's Southeast Asian rail network, connecting the red giant with countries as far afield as Pakistan, India and Singapore, has finally been ratified and construction began in November 2015 on the route that will pass directly through Laos, bisecting the country. Meanwhile, despite UN pressure, the Lao government fails to answer human rights critics lobbying for an answer to the disappearance of social progressive figures.

As US relations begin to improve and the first rumblings of gay expression make themselves heard in the capital, Laos is on one hand embracing the 21st century, while holding fast to its old-guard hegemony.

History

The Kingdom of Lan Xang

Before the French, British, Chinese and Siamese drew a line around it, Laos was a collection of disparate principalities subject to an ever-revolving cycle of war, invasion, prosperity and decay. Laos' earliest brush with nationhood was in the 14th century, when Khmer-backed Lao warlord Fa Ngum conquered Wieng Chan (Vientiane). It was Fa Ngum who gave his kingdom the title still favoured by travel romantics and businesses – Lan Xang, or (Land of a) Million Elephants. He also made Theravada Buddhism the state religion and adopted the symbol of Lao sovereignty that remains in use today, the Pha Bang Buddha image, after which Luang Prabang is named. Lan Xang reached its peak in the 17th century, when it was the dominant force in Southeast Asia.

French Rule

By the 18th century the nation had crumbled, falling under the control of the Siamese, who coveted much of modern-day Laos as a buffer zone against the expansionist French. It was to no effect. Soon after taking over Annam and Tonkin (modern-day Vietnam), the French negotiated with Siam to relinquish its territory east of the Mekong, and Laos was born.

The first nationalist movement, the Lao Issara (Free Lao), was created to prevent the country's return to French rule after the invading Japanese left at the end of WWII. In 1953, without any regard for the Lao Issara, sovereignty was granted to Laos by the French. Internecine struggles followed with the Pathet Lao (Country of the Lao) Army forming an alliance with the Vietnamese Viet Minh (which opposed French rule in their own country). Laos was set to become a chessboard on which the clash of communist ambition and US anxiety over the perceived Southeast Asian 'domino effect' played itself out.

The Secret War

In 1954 at the Geneva Conference Laos was declared a neutral nation – as such neither Vietnamese nor US forces could cross its borders. Thus began a game of cat and mouse as a multitude of CIA operatives secretly entered the country to train anticommunist Hmong fighters in the jungle. From 1964 to 1973 the US, in response to the Viet Minh funnelling massive amounts of war munitions down the Ho Chi Minh Trail, devastated eastern and northeastern Laos with nonstop carpet-bombing (reportedly a planeload of ordnance dropped every eight minutes). The intensive campaign exacerbated the war between the Pathet Lao and the Royal Lao armies and, if anything, increased domestic support for the communists.

The US withdrawal in 1973 saw Laos divided up between Pathet Lao and non-Pathet Lao, but within two years the communists had taken over and the Lao People's Democratic Republic (PDR) was created under the leadership of Kaysone Phomvihane. Around 10% of Laos' population fled, mostly to Thailand. The remaining opponents of the government – notably tribes of Hmong (highland dwellers) who had fought with and been funded by the CIA – were suppressed, often brutally, or sent to re-education camps for indeterminate periods.

A New Beginning

Laos entered the political family of Southeast Asian countries known as Asean in 1997, two years after Vietnam. Politically, the Party remains firmly in control. And with neighbours like one-party China and Vietnam, there seems little incentive for Laos to move towards any meaningful form of democracy. While still heavily reliant on foreign aid (some 8.5% of its GDP), Laos has committed to income-generating projects in recent years in a bid to increase its prosperity.

The year 2012 saw the international press starting to ask questions over the disappearance of Sombath Somphone, an award-winning civil-society activist and land-rights campaigner, with fingers directly pointed at the Lao government as the main culprit. In 2015, in an effort to counterbalance China's growing influence over the region, President Obama met with the Laos premier in New York.

People & Culture

National Psyche

Laos is a patchwork of different beliefs, ranging from animism to the prevailing presence of Thervada Bhuddism – and often both combined. But, certainly, there's a commonality in the laid-back attitude you'll encounter. Some of this can be ascribed to Buddhism, with its emphasis on controlling extreme emotions by keeping jai yen (cool heart), making merit and doing good in order to receive good. You'll rarely hear a heated argument, and can expect a level of kindness seldom experienced in neighbouring countries.

Etiquette

Touching another person's head is taboo, as is pointing your feet at another person or at a buddha image. Strong displays of emotion are also discouraged. The traditional greeting gesture is the nop or wâi, a prayerlike placing together of the palms in front of the face or chest, although in urban areas the handshake is becoming more commonplace.

For all temple visits, dress conservatively.

Population

One hundred and 32 ethnic groups make up the population of Laos. Around 60% of these are Lao Loum (lowland Lao), who have the most in common with their Thai neighbours, and it's their cultural beliefs and way of life that are known as 'Lao culture'. The remainder is labelled according to the altitude at which the groups live: Lao Theung (midlevel mountain group including Khamu, Lamet and Alak), Lao Thai (upland valleys), Lao Thoung (upland Lao) and Lao Soung (1000m or more above sea level, including Hmong, Mien and Akha).

Laos' strongest cultural and linguistic links are with Thailand; Thai music and TV are an almost ubiquitous presence in the country.

Religion

Most lowland Lao are Theravada Buddhists and many Lao males choose to be ordained temporarily as monks, typically spending anywhere from a month to three years at a wat (temple). After the 1975 communist victory, Buddhism was suppressed, but by 1992 the government had relented and it was back in full swing, with a few alterations. Monks are still forbidden to promote phî (spirit) worship, which has been officially banned in Laos along with săiyasàht (folk magic).

Despite the ban, phî worship remains the dominant non-Buddhist belief system. Even in Vientiane, Lao citizens openly perform the ceremony called sukhwǎn or bąsî, in which the 32 kwǎn (guardian spirits of the body) are bound to the guest of honour by white strings tied around the wrists (you'll see many Lao people wearing these).

Outside the Mekong River valley, the phî cult is particularly strong among tribal Thai, especially among the Thai Dam. The Khamu and Hmong-Mien tribes also practise animism.

SPIRITS, ARE YOU THERE?

The pĕe héuan (good spirits) represent both the guardian spirits of the house and ancestral spirits. In the backyard or garden, you'll often see what look like miniature ornamental temples, the pha phum (spirits of the land). Their task is to protect the grounds from any malignant spirits – for in Laos the air is thick with them. Before anything is built within their grounds, offerings must be made and permission granted. The same goes for a tree that must be knocked down to make way for a bridge, a field before a harvest…and so on. It's an endless animistic communion between the seen and unseen, the prosaic and the spiritual.

Arts

The true expression of Lao art is found in its religious sculpture, temples, handicrafts and architecture. Distinctively Lao is the Calling for Rain Buddha, a standing image with hands held rigidly at his sides.

Wat in Luang Prabang feature sǐm (chapels), with steep, low roofs. The typical Lao tâht (stupa) is a four-sided, curvilinear, spirelike structure.

Upland crafts include gold- and silversmithing among the Hmong and Mien tribes, and tribal Thai weaving (especially among the Thai Dam and Thai Lü). Classical music and dance have all but evaporated, partly due to the vapid tentacles of Thai pop and the itinerant nature of Laos' young workforce.

Food & Drink

Food

The standard Lao breakfast is fĕr (rice noodles), usually served in a broth with vegetables and meat of your choice. Lahp is the most distinctively Lao dish, a delicious spicy salad made from minced beef, pork, duck, fish or chicken, mixed with fish sauce, small shallots, mint leaves, lime juice, roasted ground rice and lots and lots of chillies.

In lowland Laos almost every dish is eaten with khào nǐaw (sticky rice), which is served in a small basket. Take a small amount of rice and, using one hand, work it into a walnut-sized ball before dipping it into the food.

Drink

Beerlao remains a firm favourite with 90% of the nation, and, although officially illegal, lào-láo (Lao liquor, or rice whisky) is a popular drink among lowland Lao. It's usually taken neat and offered in villages as a welcoming gesture. Water purified for drinking purposes is simply called nâm deum (drinking water), whether it's boiled or filtered. All water offered to customers in restaurants or hotels will be purified, and purified water is sold everywhere. Juice bars and cafes proliferate in cities. Lao coffee is usually served strong and sweet.

Environment

The Land

With a landmass of 236,800 sq km, Laos is a little larger than the UK and, thanks to its relatively small population and mountainous terrain, is one of the least altered environments in Southeast Asia. Unmanaged vegetation covers an estimated 85% of the country, and a dwindling 10% of Laos is original-growth forest. A hundred years ago this last statistic was nearer 75%, which provides a clear idea of the detrimental effects of relentless logging and slash-and-burn farming.

In 1993 the government set up 18 National Protected Areas (NPAs) comprising a total of 24,600 sq km, just over 10% of the land. An additional two were added in 1995 (taking the total coverage to 14% of Laos). Despite these conservation efforts, illegal timber felling and the smuggling of exotic wildlife are still significant threats to Laos' natural resources. The WWF claims that in 2014 China imported US$1 billion worth of timber from Laos, up from US$45 million in 2008.

Wildlife

Laos is home to Asian elephants, jackals, Asiatic black bears, black-crested gibbons, langurs, clouded leopards, pythons, king cobras, 437 kinds of bird and the rare Irrawaddy dolphin. Tigers are all but extinct. The illegal wildlife trade is flourishing, driven by neighbours – particularly China – who seek body parts of endangered animals for traditional medicine and aphrodisiac purposes.

Almost two-thirds of Lao people live in rural areas and rely on wildlife as a source of protein to supplement their diet.

Survival Guide

8Directory A–Z

Accommodation

Budget digs – usually a room with a fan and sometimes private bathroom – are getting better every year. Even though guesthouse prices are rising, particularly in the cities, they're still unbeatable value when compared with the West. At less than US$10 (80,000K) a night, who can argue?

Homestays

For more than 75% of Laotians, the 'real Laos' is life in a village. Minority people in villages across the country now welcome travellers into their homes to experience life Lao-style. This means sleeping, eating and washing as they do. It's not luxury – the mattress will be on the floor and you'll 'shower' by pouring water over yourself. But it's exactly this level of immersion that makes a homestay so worthwhile. It's also good to know that the 50,000K you'll pay for bed, dinner and breakfast is going directly to those who need it most.

Price Ranges

The following price ranges refer to the price of a double room in high season.

A$ less than 160,000K (US$20)

A$$ 160,000K to 640,000K (US$20 to US$80)

A$$$ more than 640,000K (US$80)

Activities

Cycling

Laos' uncluttered roads are a haven for cyclists. Many roads are now sealed, though if you're visiting straight after the monsoon you'll find them potholed or, in the case of the Bolaven Plateau, mired in mud. In Vientiane be careful about leaving bags in the front basket, as passing motorcyclists have been known to lift them. Laos' main towns all have bicycle-rental shops. Several companies offer mountain-bike tours, particularly from Luang Namtha, Nong Khiaw and Luang Prabang.

Kayaking & Rafting

Laos has several world-class rapids, as well as lots of beautiful, less challenging waterways. The industry remains dangerously unregulated, however, and you should not go out on rapids during the wet season unless you are completely confident about your guides and equipment. Vang Vieng and Nong Khiaw are great for kayaking. Green Discovery (www.greendiscoverylaos.com) has a good reputation.

Rock Climbing

Organised rock-climbing operations are run by Green Discovery and Adam's Rock Climbing School in the karst cliffs around Vang Vieng, and recently the excellent Green Climbers Home near Tha Khaek. Vang Vieng has the most established scene, with dozens of climbs ranging from beginner to expert.

Trekking

Where else can you wander past ethnic hill tribe villages, the triple canopy of the ancient forest towering above you? Several environmentally and culturally sustainable tours allow you to enter these pristine areas and experience the lives of the indigenous people without exploiting them. These treks are available in several provinces and are detailed on www.ecotourismlaos.com. You can trek from Luang Nam Tha, Muang Sing, Udomxai, Luang Prabang, Nong Khiaw, Tha Khaek, Savannakhet and Pakse. Treks organised through the provincial tourism offices are the cheapest, while companies such as Tiger Trail and Green Discovery offer more expensive and professional operations.

Tubing

Tubing involves floating down a river in an enormous tractor inner tube, and Vang Vieng, Muang Ngoi Neua and Si Phan Don are all hot spots to do this. Just keep an eye on reefer intake and how much you drink; the two combined can be lethal, especially in the dark if you take a tumble in a rogue current.

Books

Lonely Planet's Laos has all the information you'll need for extended travel in Laos, with more detailed descriptions of sights and wider coverage to help get you off the beaten track. The following offer further insights:

A Dragon Apparent (1951) Follows Norman Lewis' travels through the twilight of French Indochina.

The Lao (2008) Robert Cooper's locally published book (available in Vientiane) offers a penetrating insight into Lao culture and its psyche.

The Ravens: Pilots of the Secret War of Laos (1987) Christopher Robbins' page-turning account of the Secret War and the role of American pilots and the Hmong is an excellent read.

Courses

Short courses in cooking are available in the capital and Luang Prabang, and informal Lao-language lessons are advertised in Vientiane.

Customs Regulations

You can expect borders to be fairly sleepy affairs, and customs officers are equally chilled – so long as you're not carrying more than 500 cigarettes and 1L of spirits, or any drugs, knives or guns on your person.

Electricity

Electricity is 230V, 50Hz, and plugs have either two or three flat pins or two round pins.

Embassies & Consulates

Australian EmbassyEMBASSY

( GOOGLE MAP ; %021-353800; www.laos.embassy.gov.au; Th Tha Deua, Ban Wat Nak, Vientiane; h8:30am-5pm Mon-Fri)

Also represents nationals of Canada and New Zealand.

Cambodian EmbassyEMBASSY

( GOOGLE MAP ; %021-314952; Th Tha Deua, Km3, Ban That Khao, Vientiane)

Issues visas for US$20.

Chinese EmbassyEMBASSY

( GOOGLE MAP ; %021-315105; http://la.china-embassy.org/eng; Th Wat Nak Nyai, Ban Wat Nak, Vientiane; h8-11.30am Mon-Fri)

Issues visas in four working days.

French EmbassyEMBASSY

( GOOGLE MAP ; %021-215258; www.ambafrance-laos.org; Th Setthathirath, Ban Si Saket, Vientiane; h9am-12.30pm & 2-5.30pm Mon-Fri)

German EmbassyEMBASSY

( GOOGLE MAP ; %021-312110; www.vientiane.diplo.de; Th Sok Pa Luang, Vientiane; h9am-noon Mon-Fri)

Myanmar EmbassyEMBASSY

( GOOGLE MAP ; %021-314910; Th Sok Pa Luang, Vientiane)

Issues tourist visas in three days for US$20.

Thai EmbassyEMBASSY

( GOOGLE MAP ; %021-214581; www.thaiembassy.org/vientiane; Th Kaysone Phomvihane, Vientiane; h8.30am-noon & 1-3.30pm Mon-Fri)

Head to the Vientiane consulate for visa renewals and extensions. Thailand also has a consulate in Savannakhet, which issues same-day tourist and non-immigrant visas (1000B).

Thai ConsulateCONSULATE

( GOOGLE MAP ; %021-214581; 15 Th Bourichane, Vientiane; h8am-noon & 1-4.30pm)

Visa renewals and extensions.

Thai ConsulateCONSULATE

( GOOGLE MAP ; %041-212373; cnr Th Tha He & Th Chaimeuang, Savannakhet)

Tourist and non-immigrant visas issued the same day.

US EmbassyEMBASSY

(%021-487000, weekend emergency line 020 55502016; http://laos.usembassy.gov; Th Thadeua, Ban Somvang Thai , Km 9, Hatsayfong district; h8.30am-5pm Mon-Fri)

Based in a new building to the south of the city.

Vietnamese EmbassyEMBASSY

( GOOGLE MAP ; %021-413400; www.mofa.gov.vn/vnemb.la; Th That Luang, Vientiane; h8.30am-5.30pm Mon-Fri)

Issues tourist visas in three working days for US$45, or in one day for US$60. The Luang Prabang consulate issues tourist visas for US$60 in a few minutes or US$45 if you wait a few days. At the consulates in Pakse and Savannakhet, visas cost US$60.

Vietnamese ConsulateCONSULATE

( GOOGLE MAP ; Th Naviengkham, Luang Prabang)

Vietnamese ConsulateCONSULATE

( GOOGLE MAP ; %031-214199; www.vietnamconsulate-pakse.org; Th 21, Pakse; h7.30-11.30am & 2-4.30pm Mon-Fri)

Issues same-day visas for US$60.

Vietnamese ConsulateCONSULATE

( GOOGLE MAP ; %041-212418; Th Sisavangvong, Savannakhet)

One-month tourist visas cost US$60; bring one photo and allow three working days.

Food

The following price ranges refer to the cost of a main course.

A$ less than 40,000K (US$5)

A$$ 40,000K to 80,000K (US$5 to US$10)

A$$$ more than 80,000K (US$10)

Legal Matters

There is virtually nothing in the way of legal services in Laos. If you get yourself in legal strife, contact your embassy in Vientiane, though the assistance it can provide may be limited.

It's against the law for foreigners and Lao to have sexual relations unless they're married. Be aware that a holiday romance could result in being arrested and deported.

LGBT Travellers

Laos has a liberal attitude towards homosexuality, but a very conservative attitude towards public displays of affection. Gay couples are unlikely to be given frosty treatment anywhere. Laos doesn't have an obvious gay scene, though Luang Prabang has Laos' first openly gay bar, Khob Chai (opposite Hive Bar), and has the rainbow-coloured gay pride flag flying in a few places around town.

Lesbians won't be bothered, but do expect some strange looks from Lao men.

Maps

The best all-purpose country map available is Laos by GT-Rider (http://gt-rider.com), a sturdy laminated affair with several city maps. Look for editions dated from 2005 onwards.

Hobo Maps has produced a series of decent maps for Vientiane, Luang Prabang, Vang Vieng and other Northern Laos towns. These maps are widely available in the relevant destinations.

Media

Sabaidee (www.sabaidee-magazine.com) is a monthly glossy covering lifestyle and travel in Laos as well as upcoming events. The Bangkok Post, Economist, Newsweek and Time can be found in minimarts and bookshops. BBC and CNN are widely available on satellite TV.

Money

The official national currency in Laos is the Lao kip (K). Although only kip is legally negotiable in everyday transactions, in reality three currencies are used for commerce: kip, Thai baht (B) and US dollars (US$).

Bargaining

With the exception of tuk-tuk drivers in Vientiane (who are a law unto themselves), most Lao are not looking to rip you off. When haggling keep in perspective that you're a comparatively rich person in a very poor country.

Exchanging Money & Travellers Cheques

US dollars and Thai baht can be exchanged all over the country. Banks in Vientiane and Luang Prabang change UK pounds, euro, Thai baht, Japanese yen, and Canadian, US and Australian dollars. The best exchange rate is usually offered by BCL.

Banks in all provincial centres will exchange US-dollar travellers cheques. If you are changing cheques into kip, there is usually no commission, but changing into dollars attracts a minimum 2% charge.

Opening Hours

Government offices are typically open from 8am to noon and 1pm to 4pm Monday to Friday. Banking hours are generally 8.30am to 4pm Monday to Friday. Shops have longer hours and are often open on weekends. Restaurants typically close by 10pm and bars stay open until around 11.30pm, sometimes later.

Post

Postal services from Vientiane are painfully slow but generally reliable; the provinces less so. If you have valuable items or presents to post home, there is a FedEx office inside the new main post office compound in Vientiane.

Public Holidays

Aside from government offices, banks and post offices, many Lao businesses do not trouble themselves with weekends and public holidays. Most Chinese- and Vietnamese-run businesses close for three days during Vietnamese Tet and Chinese New Year in January/February. International Women's Day is a holiday for women only.

AInternational New Year 1 January

AArmy Day 20 January

AInternational Women's Day 8 March

ALao New Year 14 to 16 April

AInternational Labour Day 1 May

AInternational Children's Day 1 June

ALao National Day 2 December

Safe Travel

Urban Laos is generally very safe thanks to the gentle, nonconfrontational nature of its people. You should still exercise vigilance at night in Vientiane (due to more widespread drug taking and bag-snatching scooter thieves), while Vang Vieng occasionally suffers from theft in budget accommodation.

In the eastern provinces, particularly Xieng Khuang, Salavan and Savannakhet, UXO (unexploded ordnance) is a hazard. Never walk off well-used paths.

Telephone

Laos' country code is 856. To dial out of the country press 00 first. As a guide, all mobile phone numbers have the prefix 020, while the newer WIN phones (fixed phones without a landline) begin with 030.

Toilets

Unlike in Thailand, the hole-in-the-floor toilet is not common in Laos. The exception is if you're visiting destinations such as hill-tribe villages.

Tourist Information

The Lao National Tourism Administration (NTAL) and provincial tourism authorities have offices throughout Laos. The offices in Tha Khaek, Savannakhet, Pakse, Luang Nam Tha, Sainyabouli, Phongsali and Sam Neua are excellent, with well-trained staff and plenty of brochures.

NTAL also has three good websites:

ACentral Laos Trekking www.trekkingcentrallaos.com

AEcotourism Laos www.ecotourismlaos.com

ALao National Tourism Administration www.tourismlaos.org

For the latest listings try www.thisisvientiane.com, www.sabaidee-magazine.com and www.visit-laos.com.

DRESS ETIQUETTE

To avoid offence, women visiting Buddhist temples should cover their arms and legs with a sarong or dress, while men should ensure they are not bare-chested, and cover their legs with a sarong or trousers.

Travellers with Disabilities

Given Laos' surprisingly short-sighted view of its own people with disabilites (who are often hidden from view) it is hardly unexpected that they've poorly acquitted themselves to visitors with special physical needs. Vientiane international-style hotels have ramps, lifts and toilets for people with mobility limitations, though if you're in a wheelchair trying to navigate the sometimes broken pavements and scooters parked on the sidewalk it is going to be tough. Luang Prabang, with less vehicles and a more navigable historic quarter, is fine. Sadly, transport is a no-no, with cramped conditions on public buses. Contact hotels in advance to see what transport facilities they have.

Volunteering

It's not easy to find short-term volunteer work in Laos. The Organic Mulberry Farm in Vang Vieng needs volunteers occasionally, as does Big Brother Mouse. If you're an orthopaedic surgeon, physio or an IT and graphic designer, you may be able to work at the COPE Visitor Centre.

Women Travellers

Stories of women being hassled are few. Much of the time any attention will be no more than curiosity, as non-Asian women are generally so physically different to Lao women.

Work

English teaching is the most common first job for foreigners working in Laos, and schools in Vientiane are often hiring. There are also an inordinate number of development organisations – see www.directoryofngos.org for a full list – where foreigners with technical skills and volunteer experience can look for employment. Ask around.

8Getting There & Away

Air

With well over a dozen border crossings into Laos, visiting the country has never been easier. Also, the newly improved Lao Airlines, with a fleet of 10 new planes, is servicing most corners of the country and neighbouring countries with frequent flights.

Bangkok AirwaysAIRLINE

(www.bangkokair.com)

Connects Luang Prabang, Vientiane and Pakse to Bangkok, plus Luang Prabang to Chiang Mai.

China Eastern AirlinesAIRLINE

(www.ce-air.com)

Flies daily to Kunming and Nanning from Vientiane.

Lao AirlinesAIRLINE

(www.laoairlines.com)

National carrier. The extensive international flight network includes Vientiane to Bangkok, Chiang Mai, Danan, Guangzhou, Hanoi, Ho Chi Minh City, Kunming, Phnom Penh, Siem Reap and Singapore; Luang Prabang to Bangkok, Chiang Mai, Hanoi and Siem Reap; Pakse to Bangkok, Danang, Ho Chi Minh City and Siem Reap; and Savannakhet to Bangkok and Danang.

Thai Airways InternationalAIRLINE

(www.thaiairways.com)

Vientiane to Bangkok connections twice daily.

Vietnam AirlinesAIRLINE

(www.vietnamairlines.com)

Connects Vientiane with Ho Chi Minh City, Hanoi and Phnom Penh, plus Luang Prabang with Hanoi and Siem Reap.

Land

Laos has open land borders with Cambodia, China, Thailand and Vietnam, but not Myanmar. Under current rules, 30-day tourist visas are available on arrival at several (but not all) international checkpoints. We also recommend checking the Thorn Tree (www.lonelyplanet.com/thorntree) for other travellers' accounts, as things change frequently.

8Getting Around

Air

Lao Airlines handles all domestic flights in Laos, including between Vientiane and Luang Prabang (US$103, 40 minutes, three daily), Luang Nam Tha (US$128, six times weekly), Pakse (US$147, four times weekly), Phonsavan (Xieng Khuang; US$103, daily), Savannakhet (US$128, four times weekly) and Udomxai (US$128, four times weekly).

Lao Skyway ( GOOGLE MAP ; %021-513022; www.laoskyway.com; Domestic Terminal, Wattay International Airport; h8am-8pm) is a new domestic airline with flights from Vientiane to Udomxai (499,000K), Luang Prabang (649,000K), Huay Xai (599,000K) and Luang Namtha (499,000K). Flights are subject to change, see the website.

Bicycle

The light and relatively slow traffic in most Lao towns makes for favourable cycling conditions. Bicycles are available for rent in major tourist destinations, costing around 10,000K per day for a cheap Thai or Chinese model.

Boat

The most popular river trip in Laos – the slow boat between Huay Xai and Luang Prabang – remains a daily event. Other popular journeys – between Pakse and Si Phan Don, and Pakse and Champasak – are recommended if you have time. Sadly the route up the Nam Ou from Luang Prabang is no longer possible due to the damming of the Nam Ou.

River ferries are basic affairs and passengers usually sit, eat and sleep on the wooden decks; it's definitely worth bringing some padding. The toilet is an enclosed hole in the deck at the back of the boat. For shorter river trips, such as Luang Prabang to the Pak Ou Caves, you can easily hire a river taxi.

Between Luang Prabang and Huay Xai deafeningly loud and painfully uncomfortable speedboats operate, covering the same distance in six hours as that of a river ferry in two days. Be warned that passengers are killed and injured every year when the boats disintegrate on contact with floating debris, or flip when they hit a standing wave.

Bus & Sŏrngtăaou

Long-distance public transport in Laos is either by bus or sŏrngtăaou (literally 'two rows'), which are converted trucks or pick-ups with benches down either side. Buses are more frequent and go further than ever. Privately run VIP buses operate on some busier routes, but slow, simple standard buses (occasionally with air-con) remain the norm.

Sŏrngtăaou usually service shorter routes within a given province. Most decent-sized villages have at least one sŏrngtăaou, which will run to the provincial capital daily except Sunday, stopping wherever you want.

Car & Motorcycle

Scooters can be rented for 50,000K to 90,000K a day in Vientiane, Tha Khaek, Savannakhet, Pakse and Luang Nam Tha. In Vientiane, Luang Prabang, Tha Khaek and Pakse it's also possible to rent dirt bikes for around US$35 per day. First-One Motorbike Rental and Mad Monkey Motorbike have a range of performance dirt bikes, and the former offers the option to rent in Vientiane and drop off in Luang Prabang or Pakse for an additional charge. Motolao are a forward-thinking new company catering to keen riders who want to experience seldom seen parts of Laos on top notch dirtbikes.

Car rental in Laos is a great if relatively costly way of reaching remote places. Avis offers vehicles from US$55 per day, charging US$20 extra for an optional driver.

Hitching

Hitching is possible in Laos, if not common. It's never entirely safe and not recommended, especially for women, as the act of standing beside a road and waving at cars might be misinterpreted.