Philippines

%63 / Pop 106 million

Why Go?

Just when you thought you had Asia figured out, you get to the Philippines. Instead of monks you have priests; instead of túk-túk you have tricycles; instead of pho you have adobo. At first glance the Philippines will disarm you more than charm you, but peel back the country’s skin and there are treasures aplenty to be found. For starters, you can explore desert islands, scale volcanoes, gawk at ancient rice terraces, submerge at world-class dive sites, and venture deep into the mountains to visit remote tribes.

Beyond its obvious physical assets, the Philippines possesses a quirky streak that takes a bit longer to appreciate. There are secret potions and healing lotions, guys named Bong and girls named Bing, grinning hustlers, wheezing bangkas (outrigger boats), crooked politicians, fuzzy carabao (water buffalo), graffiti-splashed jeepneys and cheap beer to enjoy as you take it all in.

When to Go

AJan & Feb Cool, pleasant weather and the height of the festival season.

AApr & May Peak time for Donsol whale sharks, and relatively flat seas for boat travel.

ASep Typhoons are a surfer’s delight; big low-season discounts on beaches.

Best Beaches

ABoracay

AMalapascua

ASipalay

APanglao Island

APort Barton

Best Places for Cultural Connections

AVigan

AManila

ABanaue

ASiquijor

ASagada

Don’t Miss

Filipinos revel in colourful fiestas, and it’s worth scheduling your travels around one. The granddaddy of them all is the Ati-Atihan festival in Kalibo. Cebu's Sinulog Festival sees revelers dancing a unique two-steps-forward, one-step-back shuffle, while Baguio's Panagbenga involves a grand procession of floral floats. The Easter crucifixion ceremony in San Fernando, north of Manila, produces a more macabre tableau, with Catholic devotees being physically nailed to crosses. Every little town holds a fiesta, so your odds of seeing one are pretty good.

The Filipino joie de vivre also manifests itself in other ways – namely, singing. A karaoke night out is essential. Or pay homage to Filipino cover bands worldwide with some live music. Cover-band shows in Malate can be lively, or head up to Quezon City or Makati for more original fare.

ITINERARIES

ONE WEEK

Beach bums and divers should select a Visayan island and just fly there. Popular, easy-to-reach picks include Bohol, with its mix of marine and terrestrial attractions; well-rounded Southern Negros; and Cebu island with its thresher sharks and sardines. Kitesurfers and hedonists should plot a course towards Boracay. If mountains are your thing, do the spectacular North Luzon overland loop from Baguio to Sagada to Banaue and back to Manila.

TWO WEEKS

Spend a day exploring Manila, then complete the North Luzon loop. Fly from Manila to Coron in northern Palawan for some island-hopping, then make the eight-hour sea voyage to El Nido, gateway to cliff-addled Bacuit Bay. Travel overland to Puerto Princesa, taking maximum time to linger on lonely beaches along Palawan’s west coast.

Essential Outdoor Activities

AWhale sharks Snorkelling with the gentle butanding of Donsol is the quintessential Philippine adventure.

ASagada caving Dodge stalactites, slither through crevasses and swim in crisp underground pools on the thrilling cave connection.

AMalapascua diving Drop onto Monad Shoal to view thresher sharks by morning and manta rays by day.

ABoracay kitesurfing Bulabog Beach’s shallow lagoon is perfect for learning, while stiff winds from December to March challenge experts.

ASiargao surfing Tackle the Philippines’ ultimate wave, Cloud Nine.

At a Glance

ACurrency Peso (P)

ALanguages Tagalog (Filipino), English

AMoney ATMs abound in cities, but are scarce in remote areas

AVisas Visa waivers on arrival (30 days) the norm

AMobile phones Prepaid SIM cards are easy to procure

Fast Facts

AArea 300,000 sq km

ACapital Manila

AEmergency 117

Exchange Rates

Australia	A$1	P40
Euro	€1	P60
Malaysia	RM1	P15
Thailand	10B	P15
UK	UK£1	P75
US	US$1	P45

Daily Costs

ADorm bed P450

ABottle of San Miguel beer P40

ATwo-tank scuba dive P2500

AShort taxi ride P60

Entering the Country

Entering the country is straightforward and usually done by air through Manila, Cebu, Clark or Kalibo airports.

Philippines Highlights

1 Drifting among the limestone cathedrals and azure lagoons of the Bacuit Archipelago around El Nido.

2 Trekking through the skyscraping rice terraces around Banaue and Bontoc in North Luzon’s Cordillera.

3 Having a night out in Manila, a city that never sleeps.

4 Exploring sunken WWII wrecks and kayaking amid myriad islands around Coron.

5 Enjoying sun, sea sports and dancing till dawn on the stunning beaches of Boracay.

6 Hopping from natural spring to coral reef to volcano to waterfall around the lush island of Camiguin.

7 Discovering unheralded Dumaguete, in an enviable mix of adventures and getaways.

8 Taking Cebu by storm: party in Cebu City, then detox on idyllic Malapascua Island.

Luzon

The Philippines' main island is a vast expanse of misty mountains, sprawling plains, simmering volcanoes and endless coastline – with Manila at the centre of it all. The island's trophy piece is the northern mountainous area known as the Cordillera, where the Ifugao built their world-famous rice terraces in and around Banaue more than 2000 years ago. Along Luzon's northwest coast, historic Vigan is the country’s best-preserved Spanish colonial-era town. Explorers can continue north of Vigan to Luzon’s wild northern tip, where remote white-sand beaches embrace the coastline and rarely visited islands lurk offshore. Elsewhere, the southeast region of Bicol is home to fiery food and two of the country's top attractions: the whale sharks of Donsol and the perfect cone of Mt Mayon.

Manila

%02 / Pop 12 million

Manila’s moniker, the ‘Pearl of the Orient’, couldn’t be more apt – its cantankerous shell reveals its jewel only to those resolute enough to pry. The city has endured every disaster both humans and nature could throw at it, and yet today the chaotic 600-sq-km metropolis thrives as a true Asian megacity. Skyscrapers pierce the hazy sky, mushrooming from the grinding poverty of expansive shanty towns, while gleaming malls foreshadow Manila’s brave new air-conditioned world.

The determined will discover Manila’s tender soul, perhaps among the leafy courtyards and cobbled streets of serene Intramuros, where little has changed since the Spanish left. Or it may be in the eddy of repose arising from the generosity of one of the city’s 12 million residents.

History

The Spanish brushed aside a Muslim fort here in 1571 and founded the modern city as the capital of their realm. Spanish residents were concentrated around the walled city of Intramuros until 1898, when the Spanish governor surrendered to the Filipinos at San Agustin Church. After being razed to the ground during WWII, the city grew exponentially during the postwar years as migrants left the countryside in search of new opportunities.

Metro Manila

1Top Sights

1Chinese CemeteryC2

1Sights

2Quiapo ChurchC4

4Sleeping

3Pink ManilaC5

6Drinking & Nightlife

4HoochE6

5O BarF4

6Palace Pool ClubF6

3Entertainment

7SaGuijoD5

ValkyrieF6

7Shopping

8GreenbeltD6

9Mall of AsiaC7

8Information

10Australian EmbassyD6

11BOI Makati OfficeE6

Canadian EmbassyD6

German EmbassyD6

12HSBCD6

13Makati Medical CenterD6

14Netherlands EmbassyE6

15New Zealand EmbassyE6

16UK EmbassyF6

Transport

172GO TravelB5

18Air SwiftD7

19Araneta Bus TerminalF3

BSC San AgustinD7

Cagsawa Cubao TerminalF3

20CeresC6

21Coda LinesE3

22Dangwa Bus LinesE2

23Florida Bus LinesC3

24Genesis Cubao TerminalF3

25Genesis Pasay TerminalD7

26Isarog Cubao TerminalF3

27Jam LinerD6

28Manila North Harbor PortB4

29Ninoy Aquino International AirportD8

OhayamiC3

30Partas Cubao TerminalF3

31Partas Pasay TerminalD7

32PhiltrancoD7

Victory Liner Cubao TerminalF3

33Victory Liner Pasay TerminalD6

Victory Liner SampalocC3

1Sights

The main sights are downtown in the old walled city of Intramuros, which lies just south of the Pasig River, and south of Intramuros around Rizal Park (Luneta). You can walk to both of these easily enough from Malate and Ermita.

Intramuros

A spacious borough of wide streets, leafy plazas and lovely colonial-era houses, the old walled city of Intramuros was the centrepiece of Spanish Manila. The Spanish replaced the original wooden fort with stone in 1590, and these walls stand much as they were 400 years ago. They’re still studded with bastions and pierced with puertas (gates).

At the mouth of the Pasig River you’ll find Manila’s premier tourist attraction, Fort Santiago ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Santa Clara St; adult/student P75/50; h8am-6pm), fronted by a pretty lily pond and the Intramuros Visitors Center ( GOOGLE MAP ; %02-527 2961; Fort Santiago; h8am-5pm). During WWII the fort was used as a prisoner-of-war camp by the Japanese. Within the fort grounds you’ll find the Rizal Shrine ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; admission incl with fort entry ticket; h9am-6pm Tue-Sun, 1-5pm Mon) in the building where national hero José Rizal was incarcerated as he awaited execution. It contains Rizal’s personal effects and a re-creation of his cell and the courtroom trial.

The most interesting building to survive the Battle of Manila is the church and monastery of San Agustin ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %02-527 4060; General Luna St). The interior is truly opulent and the ceiling, painted in 3-D relief, will make you question your vision. You must visit during a mass, or access it through the interesting San Agustin Museum ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; General Luna St; adult/child P100/80; h8am-noon & 1-6pm).

Opposite the church, Casa Manila ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %02-527 4084; Plaza Luis Complex, General Luna St; adult/student P75/50; h9am-6pm Tue-Sun) is a beautiful reproduction of a three-storey Spanish colonial-era mansion, filled with priceless antiques.

Intramuros & Rizal Park

1Top Sights

1Casa ManilaB3

2Fort SantiagoA1

3National Gallery of ArtC5

4National Museum of the Filipino PeopleC5

5Rizal MonumentA5

6Rizal ShrineA1

7San Agustin ChurchB3

1Sights

8Rizal ParkB6

9San Agustin MuseumB3

2Activities, Courses & Tours

BambikeB3

7Shopping

10Manila Collectible CoA2

11Silahis Arts & ArtifactsB4

Rizal Park

Manila’s iconic central park ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ), fondly known to most locals as Luneta, is spread out over some 60 hectares of open lawns, ornamental gardens, and paved walks dotted with monuments to a whole pantheon of Filipino heroes. It's an atmospheric place to take a stroll, particularly late afternoons, early evening and weekends.

As the place where José Rizal was executed by the Spanish colonial authorities, it's of great historical significance. Here you'll find the Rizal Monument ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) (fronted by a 46m flagpole and guarded by sentries in full regalia), which contains the hero’s mortal remains and stands as a symbol of Filipino nationhood.

The superb National Museum of the Filipino People ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.nationalmuseum.gov.ph; T Valencia Circle, Rizal Park; adult/student P150/50, Sun free; h10am-5pm Tue-Sun) occupies a resplendent neoclassical building in the northeast corner of the park. Its varied collection includes the skullcap of the Philippines’ earliest known inhabitant, Tabon Man; treasures salvaged from the wreck of the San Diego, a Spanish galleon from 1600; and indigenous textile exhibits. Admission to the museum includes entrance to the nearby National Gallery of Art ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; P Burgos St; adult/student P150/50, Sun free; h10am-5pm Tue-Sun), which contains many works of Filipino masters, including Juan Luna’s impressive signature work, Spoliarium.

PHOTOBOMBER EXTRAORDINAIRE

Looming just east of Rizal Park is a half-built 49-storey condo known as Torre de Manila. Its many critics have dubbed it 'Terror de Manila' or the 'Rizal Monument Photobomber' for its tendency to sneak into pictures of Manila's most revered statue. The building's construction was on hold at the time of writing, pending the result of lawsuits brought by preservationists who claim that it's an 'eysore' that damages the country's historical and cultural heritage.

Binondo & Quiapo

Lovers of markets and utter chaos are advised to make DIY trips over the Pasig River to Manila's epicentre of commerce – Binondo (the old Chinatown) and Quiapo. Around Quiapo Church ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Quezon Blvd) look for the apothecary vendors. They sell herbal potions, folk medicines and amulets that are said to ward off evil spirits. Take the LRT-1 to the Carriedo stop to get to the heart of the action.

Further north near the Abad Santos LRT-1 station, the Chinese Cemetery ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Rizal Ave Extension, Santa Cruz; h7.30am-7pm) is worth a visit for its gaudy mausoleums, some equipped with flushing toilets and crystal chandeliers.

TTours

Walking tours are a great way to take in the sights of downtown Manila. Carlos Celdran is a hilariously eccentric one-man show of Filipino history and trivia, and his Walk This Way (%0920 909 2021; www.carlosceldran.com; adults/students P1100/600) tours are highly recommended. Old Manila Walks (%0918 962 6452, 02-711 3823; www.oldmanilawalks.com; tours from P1100) has great all-you-can-eat foodie walking tours in Binondo, as well as tours of the Chinese Cemetery, Corregidor Island and more.

BambikeCYCLING

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %02-525 8289; www.bambike.com; Plaza Luis Complex, General Luna St, Intramuros; 1-/2½-hr tour P600/1200; h10am & 3pm)

Bambike runs guided cycling tours around Intramuros on handmade bicycles constructed using bamboo frames. Pedalling the laid-back backstreets of the walled city makes for a great way to cover expansive Intramuros, taking in all the main stops plus some less-visited gems. Prices include entrance fees, helmets and water.

Sun CruisesBOATING

(%02-831 8140; www.corregidorphilippines.com; CCP Complex jetty, Pasay; ferry only weekday/weekend P1400/1500, excursion incl lunch weekday/weekend P2350/2550, walking tour without lunch P1700)

Sun Cruises has the market cornered for trips to infamous Corregidor Island, the last bastion of American resistance during the Japanese invasion of Luzon in 1941. It loads up 100 to 200 passengers every morning at 7.30am; you shall return to Manila by 3.45pm, unless you stay overnight.

P Burgos Area

4Sleeping

5La Casita de MercedesD3

6Lokal HostelC3

7MNL Boutique HostelB1

8Z HostelC3

5Eating

9A Venue Food MarketB1

10Beni's FalafelB1

11El ChupacabraC3

12Friends & NeighborsC1

13Som's Noodle HouseD3

14TambaiC3

6Drinking & Nightlife

15H&JC3

16HandlebarC4

17TimeC1

Z Hostel RoofdeckC3

4Sleeping

Most people stay 'downtown' in Malate or in the business district of Makati. Malate remains a bit blighted but is closer to the sights and is beginning to experience a revival after years of neglect. Makati hostels cost more, but are closer to the best restaurants and nightlife. If you need to be close to the airport, hone in on Pasay.

Malate & Pasay

oPink ManilaHOSTEL$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %02-484 3145; www.pinkmanilahostel.com; fth fl, cnr Bautista & San Pedro Sts, Pasay; dm fan/air-con P450/570, d P1600; aWs)

Floridian owner Crissy pushes all the right buttons with this sociable hostel. It feels like the Big Brother household, where bikini-clad, shirtless backpackers laze poolside around the bar playing guitar. There's a nice mix of dorms with beds swathed in trademark pink linen, a hammock-strewn roof deck, and rocking monthly parties. The somewhat random location is equally convenient to Malate and Makati.

Where 2 NextHOSTEL$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %02-354 3533; www.where2nexthostel.com; 1776 Adriatico St; incl breakfast dm with air-con P495, r with fan/air-con P950/1550; aiW)

A slick hostel with a sparkling common area full of comfy couches and a glassed-in balcony overlooking Malate's main strip. Well-cleaned rooms are brightened with graffiti murals and there is a full kitchen for self-caterers. It lacks a killer bar but organises bar crawls.

Chill-Out GuesthouseHOSTEL$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %02-714 6600; www.chilloutmanila63@gmail.com; 612 Remedios St; dm P350, r P700-1560; aiW)

P350 air-con dorms? Works for us. They are plenty clean and livable, too. But what really makes this French-managed guesthouse-hostel hybrid stick out are the private rooms, which are downright roomy and have touches like couches, nightstands and art on the walls. Hang out, cook and eat in the kitchen/common area.

Wanderers Guest HouseHOSTEL$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %02-525 1534; www.wanderersguesthouse.com; 1750 Adriatico St; dm with fan/air-con P300/350, d with fan/air-con from P790/990, tr P1350-1800; aiW)

In the heart of Malate, Wanderers knows precisely what backpackers want and delivers beautifully with a mix of clean dorms and private rooms (some with balconies), excellent travel info and cooking facilities. The highlight is its grungy rooftop bar-restaurant–chill-out lounge, perfect for socialising with other travellers over cheap booze.

V HotelHOTEL$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %02-328 5553; www.vhotelmanila.com; 1766 Adriatico St; d without bathroom P1200, r with bathroom & incl breakfast P1800-2800; aWs)

A very well priced designer hotel in downtown Malate with smart (but boxy) rooms, a vibrant cafe and small roof-deck pool. The cheapest rooms have bunk-beds and shared bathroom, and are a good budget option over hostels.

SPLURGE

With its grey-stone minimalism, Amélie Hotel ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %02-875 7888; www.ameliehotelmanila.com; 1667 Bocobo St; r incl breakfast P3900-5100; naWs) is the perfect antidote to sweaty, steamy Malate. The throwback art-deco furniture barely fills the immense rectangular space of the rooms. Head up to the rooftop plunge pool for happy hour and dial up drinks from the lobby bar 10 stories below.

Makati

Hilik HostelHOSTEL$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %02-519 5821; www.hilikboutiquehostel.ph; Mavenue Bldg, 7844 Makati Ave; incl breakfast dm P500-650, d P1100-1500; aWs)

What separates Hilik from the pack is its downright stylish private rooms, although you'll want to request one off noisy Makati Ave. The air-con dorms at Hilik ('snore' in Tagalog) are cramped but, like the kitchen and common area of this intimate hostel, immaculate.

MNL Boutique HostelHOSTEL$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %02-511 7514; www.mnlboutiquehostel.com; 4688 B Valdez St; dm P500-750, r P1550; aiW)

Incorporating industrial decor such as polished concrete and colourful plywood doors, arty MNL prides itself on being a creative, comfy backpackers. Space is squashy and lacks natural light, but the beds are quality, unsavoury smells are absent, and the street-level locale makes for a robust Filipino-style happy hour.

Lokal HostelHOSTEL$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %02-890 0927; www.lokalhostel.com; 3rd fl, 5023 P Burgos St; dm with fan/air-con from P399/499, s/d from P800/1300; aiW)

In the middle of Makati's tacky red-light district, this hostel offers respite from within, and has spacious dorms with big beds, murals and a cool roof-deck hangout. The private rooms are the best value you'll find in Makati.

Z HostelHOSTEL$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %02-856 0851; www.zhostel.com; 5660 Don Pedro St; dm P650-850, d incl breakfast P2430; aiW)

This is Manila's number-one party address for groovy backpackers thanks to its rocking rooftop bar and chic ground-floor cafe. It's a huge space with 130 beds over seven floors. The airy dorms are all en suite and boast sturdy iron-framed beds with personal charging stations. The private rooms are overpriced. No kitchen.

Junction HostelHOSTEL$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %02-501 6575; www.junctionhostels.com; cnr Gen Luna & Don Pedro Sts; dm P650-850, d without bathroom P1800; aiW)

Manila's latest 'poshtel', 111-bed Junction has a distinctively urban feel, with murals on the walls, industrial fixtures and boutique dorm rooms in a mix of styles and configurations. In the funky downstairs common area baristas sling boutique coffee and imported beers to patrons hovered over their laptops. It could be Brooklyn.

Clipper HotelHOTEL$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %02-890 8577; www.theclipperhotel.com; 5766 Ebro St; s P1400, d P2300-2500; aW)

The Clipper keeps it classy despite being steps away from seedy P Burgos St. The two quirky, windowless singles resemble boat cabins, with flat-screens built into the beds. The roomy doubles are very white and bright, with parquet floors. For something even classier, target the Clipper's newly opened sister property, La Casita de Mercedes ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %02-887 4385; http://lacasitamercedes.com; cnr Alfonso & Fermina Sts; s P1500, d incl breakfast P2650-2950) B&B, in a beautifully restored 1930s house.

Hotel DurbanHOTEL$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %02-897 1866; www.hoteldurban.net; 4875 Durban St, Makati; r P1700-2600; aW)

Makati’s best midrange value is a tightly run ship. The immaculate rooms, with faux-wood panelling, are more than adequate for the price. Upgrade to the top-floor 'deluxe' rooms, with windows.

Ermita & Malate

4Sleeping

1Amélie HotelB3

2Chill-Out GuesthouseC5

3V HotelB4

4Wanderers Guest HouseB4

5Where 2 NextB4

5Eating

6Cafe AdriaticoB5

7Hap Chan Tea HouseB3

8Midtown DinerC1

9Robinsons PlaceB2

10Shawarma Snack CenterB2

6Drinking & Nightlife

11Erra's Vest Ramen in TownB4

12Tap StationB1

3Entertainment

131951B5

14LibraryC4

7Shopping

15Solidaridad BookshopB1

Transport

16Cagsawa Ermita TerminalB1

Isarog Ermita TerminalB1

5Eating

Food courts in malls such as Robinsons Place in Ermita are always a good bet for affordable sustenance. For vegetarian food try the dozens of halal restaurants in Malate. Head to Chinatown in Quiapo/Binondo for authentic Chinese food.

Malate & Ermita

oShawarma Snack CenterMIDDLE EASTERN$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 485 R Salas St; shawarma P60-75, meals P85-300; h24hr)

It doesn’t sound like much, but this street-side eatery serves the richest and most flavourful falafel, muttabal (eggplant dip), hummus and kebabs in downtown Manila.

Midtown DinerFILIPINO, AMERICAN$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 551 Padre Faura St; meals P115-180; h7am-8pm Mon-Sat; W)

Filipino take on an old-school meat-and-potatoes American diner. Home in on the budget set meals, which include a soup and iced tea.

Cafe AdriaticoINTERNATIONAL$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 1790 Adriatico St, Malate; mains P200-400; h7am-5am; W)

An old-time Malate favourite, this romantic corner bistro is worth a splurge for original multicultural fare with Spanish, English, American and Italian options, and the people-watching on Remedios Circle. It's open till dawn, so it's great for a late-night meal.

Hap Chan Tea HouseCHINESE$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 561 General Malvar St; mains P200-400; h11am-3am)

Delicious, steaming platters of Hong Kong specialities are the name of the game here. It’s popular for a reason.

Makati

Felipe St is a great place to browse for chow, with several lively bars and eateries that spill onto the street. The best is El Chupacabra ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 5782 Felipe St; tacos from P95; h8am-midnight Mon-Thu, to 3am Fri-Sun), which serves delicious 'street tacos', often with a Filipino twist, plus margaritas and P45 San Miguel. Opposite are Tambai ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Felipe St; dishes P70-300; W) for quick but highly original Japanese-infused Filipino snacks (try the to-die-for beef-rib laki-tori sticks), and sports bar H&J ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 5781 Felipe St; h2pm-7am; W) for pub grub.

For a great Filipino food introduction, try the home-cooked turu-turò (point-point) fare at Friends & Neighbors ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 5070 P Burgos St; dishes P70-100; h9am-9pm Mon-Sat), or the open-air A Venue Food Market (Hot Asia; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; A Venue Mall, Makati Ave; dishes P75-85; h1pm-midnight) nearby.

Som’s Noodle HouseTHAI$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 5921 A Alger St; mains P120-220; h10.30am-10.30pm)

Restaurants in the Philippines generally struggle with Thai food but not Som’s, which spices staples such as red curry and tom yum to your liking. It’s a great deal, and it can deliver to your hotel.

Beni's FalafelMIDDLE EASTERN$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; A Venue Mall, B Valdez St Entrance; dishes P150-280; h24hr; W)

Everything on the menu of this unassuming Yemeni-owned eatery is original and done to perfection. The shakshuka (eggs poached in a spicy tomato sauce) and Beni's falafel are our faves.

WORTH A TRIP

VOLCANO HOPPING

Besides Corregidor Island, the most popular day tour out of Manila is to Tagaytay, 60km south. The town's 15km-long ridge road serves up spectacular views of Taal Volcano, which rises out of Taal Lake 600m below. You can take a boat to the volcano itself, which can be climbed in just 45 minutes. Many hostels in Manila arrange day tours here.

Another popular tour is a jeep ride (followed by a two-hour climb) to the stunning emerald crater lake of Mt Pinatubo, site of a cataclysmic volcanic eruption in 1991. The mountain is a couple of hours' drive north of Manila and tours leave at around 4.30am.

6Drinking & Entertainment

You name it, it’s there. That about sums up Manila nightlife. As a rule, Malate has cover bands and karaoke bars; Makati and the Fort are where the nightclubs are; and Quezon City has the best original live music.

Movies (mostly imported blockbusters in English; tickets P150 to P250) are in the malls. Theatres and performing arts troupes are scattered all over the metropolis. See www.clickthecity.com for extensive movie and entertainment listings.

Malate

Drinking opportunities abound down here. You can quaff cheap suds kerbside just west of Remedios Circle on Remedios St. On this same street are a couple of uni clubs that get going later in the evening.

Erra’s Vest Ramen in TownBAR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 1755 Adriatico St; h24hr)

Erra's is your classic Southeast Asian streetside shack luring folk from all corners of the galaxy to quaff cheap San Miguel (P34) and – as its quirky new name implies – slurp the house Ramen (P60 to P90).

Tap StationBAR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; cnr Adriatico & Padre Faura Sts; 330ml beer P120-200; h3pm-2am)

Tasty craft beer brewed by next-door neighbor G-Point, served in a more inviting open-air setting festooned with pics of old Manila.

o1951LIVE MUSIC

(Penguin Cafe; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 1951 M Adriatico St; hfrom 6pm Tue-Sat)

This legendary bar-cum-gallery is a magnet for bohemian types and lovers of live music, with some of the finest musical talent in the Philippines having graced its stage. The official name is now 1951 but everybody still calls it Penguin Cafe.

Makati & The Fort

There are several worthy sports bars around P Burgos St, including the fantastic biker bar Handlebar ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.handlebar.com.ph; 31 Polaris St; h24hr). The club scene changes often. Neighbouring Valkyrie ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; http://valkyrie.thepalacemanila.com; 9th Ave cnr 36th St, Fort Bonifacio; admission incl 2 drinks P600-800; h10pm-late Wed-Sat) and Palace Pool Club ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; http://poolclub.thepalacemanila.com; 9th Ave cnr 36th St, Fort Bonifacio; 11am-3am) in the Fort were pick of the litter at the time of research. No matter what's hot and what's not, everybody seems to end up at timeless Time ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 7840 Makati Ave; hfrom 5pm Tue-Sat) late-night.

Z Hostel RoofdeckBAR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 5660 Don Pedro St; h5pm-late, happy hr 7-9pm)

There's no doubt where the top backpacker party spot in Manila is. Z's roof deck draws competent DJs and is popular with locals and expats too. Happy hour brings P50 local beers.

HoochBAR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 125 Leviste St; hhappy hr 2-6pm, til 5pm Sat & Sun; W)

A fancy-ish cocktail bar in upscale Salcedo Village, Hooch has a pleasant surprise for budget-conscious beer lovers: P90 pints of decent craft beer at happy hour, easily the best brew value in town.

oSaGuijoLIVE MUSIC

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %02-897 8629; www.saguijo.com; 7612 Guijo St, Makati; admission after 10pm incl a drink P150; h6pm-2am)

A wonderfully decrepit dive bar with a jam-packed roster of indie, punk and new wave bands that kick off at 10.30pm.

GAY & LESBIAN MANILA

Manila, like most of the Philippines, is very gay-friendly. The traditional gay-and-lesbian nexus is at the corner of J Nakpil St and M Orosa St in Malate, although the best gay clubs have migrated to Ortigas, Quezon City.

O BarGAY

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0919 996 4154; Ortigas Home Depot, Julia Vargas Ave, Ortigas; admission incl 3 beers P300-400; h10pm-6am Wed-Sun)

O Bar expanded from gay bar to gay club upon its move to Ortigas from J Nakpil St in Malate. Raucous parties into the wee hours, plus an infamous drag show.

LibraryCOMEDY

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %02-522 2484; www.thelibrary.com.ph; 1139 M Orosa St; shows P100-500; hshows from 9pm)

In the heart of Malate's gay district, the Library has nightly comedy shows (at 9pm) that are popular with both gay and straight audiences.

7Shopping

Worthy souvenir items include wood-carved Ifugao bulol (rice guards), barong (traditional Filipino shirts), lacquered coconut-shell trinkets and indigenous textiles.

Hulking malls like Robinsons Place ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Pedro Gil St; h10am-9pm), Mall of Asia ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.smmallofasia.com; Manila Bay; h10am-10pm) and Greenbelt ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Ayala Centre) have plenty of well-stocked bookstores, or check out leftie bookshop Solidaridad ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 531 P Faura St, Ermita; h9am-6pm Mon-Sat) for alternative titles and documentaries on local history and politics.

oSilahis Arts & ArtifactsGIFTS & SOUVENIRS

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.silahis.com; 744 General Luna St, Intramuros; h10am-7pm)

This is almost more of a cultural centre than store. Intricately woven baskets, wooden Ifugao bulol (rice guard) statues, textiles and other crafts from around the country are sold next to beautiful antiques.

Manila Collectible CoSOUVENIRS, FOOD

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0917 861 3011; Fort Santiago, Intramuros; h10am-6pm; W)

This funky shop specialises in handspun textiles and accessories produced by indigenous groups across the Philippines. It also sells fair-trade organic coffee, Filipino cigars, local 'wines', flavoured pili nuts and pure cacao.

Orientation

Giant Metro Manila is composed of 17 cities. From a tourist perspective, the important ones are the City of Manila (‘downtown’), where most sights are; Pasay and Parañaque, where you'll find the airport and many bus terminals; and the business district of Makati. The booming Fort Bonifacio area lies in Taguig but is essentially an extension of Makati. Pleasant, youthful Quezon City is the country’s most populous city with almost three million residents.

8Information

Dangers & Annoyances

Manila is probably no more dangerous than the next megacity, but it can still be dodgy, especially after dark. The district of Tondo, particularly around the north ports, is one area to avoid walking around solo after dark. The tourist belts in Malate and especially Ermita are rife with street-dwellers and destitution. Exercise caution walking around at night, especially south of Remedios Circle.

Pickpocketing is rampant on the MRT, and on major bar strips, where drunk tourists present easy prey.

Traffic is the big annoyance in Manila; you’ll probably spend half your time either stuck in it or talking about it. Leave extra time to get to airports, bus stations and dinner dates.

Internet Access

Malls such as Robinsons Place have internet cafes, and there are a few along Adriatico St in Malate, and along Makati Ave near the corner of Jupiter St.

Medical Services

Makati Medical CenterHOSPITAL

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %02-888 8999; www.makatimed.net.ph; 2 Amorsolo St, Makati)

Manila Doctors HospitalHOSPITAL

( GOOGLE MAP ; %02-558 0888; www.maniladoctors.com.ph; 667 United Nations Ave, Ermita)

Money

Malate, Ermita, Makati and malls everywhere are littered with ATMs. Popular banks are BDO, BPI and Metrobank, but all charge P200 for ATM withdrawals and have a P10,000 limit per withdrawal. Along Mabini and Adriatico Sts you'll find numerous money-changers but, as always, be careful when using these services.

HSBCBANK

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 6766 Ayala Ave, Makati)

Allows P40,000 withdrawals.

Tourist Information

There are tourist information booths in the arrivals area of all four airport terminals. The official website of Philippine tourism is www.visitmyphilippines.com.

Travel Agencies

Malate and Ermita are filled with travel agencies that can help with domestic air tickets (for a fee).

Filipino Travel CenterTRAVEL AGENCY

( GOOGLE MAP ; %02-528 4507; www.filipinotravel.com.ph; cnr Adriatico & Pedro Gil Sts, Malate; h8am-6pm Mon-Fri, 9am-5pm Sat)

Catering to foreign tourists, this helpful and knowledgeable agency organises city tours and day tours around Manila and beyond.

8Getting There & Away

Air

Ninoy Aquino International Airport (NAIA; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.miaa.gov.ph) is about 6km south of Malate, in Parañaque. See here for information on navigating NAIA's four terminals.

Boat

The flashy Manila North Harbor Port ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.mnhport.com.ph; Piers 4 & 6, Tondo), northwest of Binondo, is a beacon of modernity in the capital's hardscrabble Tondo district. All domestic ferry travel uses this port.

2GO Travel ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %02-528 7000; http://travel.2go.com.ph; Pier 4, Manila North Harbor Port) is the main shipping line handling inter-island boat trips from Manila. Tickets can be purchased online, through travel agents or at major malls.

Bus

Confusingly there’s no single long-distance bus station in Manila. The terminals are mainly strung along Epifanio de los Santos Ave (EDSA), with a cluster near the intersection of Taft Ave in Pasay City to the south, and in Cubao (part of Quezon City) to the north. Another cluster is north of Quiapo in Sampaloc. Buses heading into Manila will usually just have ‘Cubao’, ‘Pasay’ or ‘Sampaloc’ on the signboard.

Most buses are 40-seat 'air-con' buses with a two-by-two seating arrangement. Comfortable 27-seat ‘deluxe’ express buses are well worth the extra coin to Baguio, Legazpi and Vigan. Packed ‘ordinary’ (non-air-con) buses cost 30% less than air-con services but take substantially longer.

BUSES FROM MANILA

Destination	Fare (P)	Duration (hr)	Recommended Companies	Frequency
Baguio	air-con/deluxe 450/750	4-6½	Genesis, Victory Liner	frequent
Banaue	450-530	7-8	Dangwa, Ohayami	2-4 night buses
Batangas	160-180	2	Jam Transit, RRCG, Ceres	every 20min
Clark Airport	450	3	Philtranco	3 daily
Legazpi	air-con/deluxe P850/1050	12	Cagsawa, Isarog, Philtranco	frequent
Sagada	720	11	Coda Lines	9pm
Solano (for Banaue)	375	8	Florida, Victory Liner	frequent
Tagaytay	78	2-3	BSC San Agustin	every 20min
Vigan	air-con/deluxe 680/825	7-9	Florida, Partas	hourly

Useful Bus Companies

CagsawaBUS

Ermita ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %02-525 9756; P Faura Centre, P Faura St); Cubao ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %02-998 9050; Araneta Bus Terminal)

CeresBUS

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; cnr Taft & Sen Gil Puyat Aves, Pasay)

Coda LinesBUS

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0927 559 2197; 277 E Rodriguez Sr Ave, Quezon City)

Dangwa Bus LinesBUS

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %02-493 7596; Florida Cubao Terminal, EDSA cnr Kamuning)

Florida Bus LinesBUS

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %02-781 5894; cnr Earnshaw St & Lacson Ave, Sampaloc)

GenesisBUS

(www.genesistransport.com.ph)

Terminals in Pasay ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %02-853 3115; Pasay Rotunda) and Cubao ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %02-709 0545; cnr New York Ave & EDSA).

Isarog Bus LinesBUS

(http://bicolisarog.com)

Terminals in Ermita and Cubao ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %02-925 6835; Araneta Bus Terminal).

Jam LinerBUS

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %02-425 5489; www.jam.com.ph; cnr Taft & Sen Gil Puyat Aves, Pasay)

OhayamiBUS

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0927 649 3055; www.ohayamitrans.com; cnr Fajardo St & Lacson Ave, Sampaloc)

PartasBUS

Terminals in Cubao ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %02-725 1756; cnr Aurora Blvd & Bernadino St) and Pasay ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %02-851 4025; Aurora Blvd, Pasay).

PhiltrancoBUS

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %02-851 8077-9; www.philtranco.com.ph; cnr EDSA & Apelo Cruz, Pasay)

BSC San AgustinBUS

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Pasay Rotunda, cnr Taft Ave & EDSA)

Victory LinerBUS

(www.victoryliner.com)

Terminals in Cubao ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %02-727 4534; cnr EDSA & New York Ave), Pasay ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %02-833 5019-20; cnr EDSA & Taft Ave, Pasay) and Sampaloc ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %02-559 7735; www.victoryliner.com; 551 Earnshaw St, Sampaloc).

8Getting Around

EDSA is the main artery, linking Mall of Asia in Pasay with Makati, Ortigas and Quezon City. Iconic Roxas Blvd runs north along Manila Bay from Pasay to Rizal Park via Malate. The MRT line conveniently runs right along EDSA, and links with the LRT-1 line at Taft Ave.

To/From the Airport, Bus Terminals & Ferry Port

Since there are no direct public-transport routes from any of the four NAIA terminals to the tourist belt in Malate, bite the bullet and take a taxi. Avoid the white, prepaid ‘coupon’ taxis that charge set rates of more than P400, and look for the yellow airport metered taxis. These have a flag fall of P70 (taxis on the street have a P40 flag fall). Your total bill to Malate should be about P250. To save a few pesos you can walk upstairs to the arrival areas of Terminals 1, 2 or 3 and look for ranks of regular metered taxis on drop-off runs.

If you arrive in Manila by boat, you’re also better off catching a taxi into town, as the North Harbor area isn’t a place for a foreigner to be wandering around with luggage, and public-transport routes are complicated.

With the number of different bus stations in Manila, if you arrive by bus you could end up pretty much anywhere. Luckily, most terminals are located on or near Manila’s major artery, Epifanio de los Santos Ave (EDSA), linked to Malate and Makati by LRT and MRT.

Jeepney

Heading south from Ermita/Malate along MH del Pilar St, ‘Baclaran’ jeepneys end up on EDSA just west of the Pasay bus terminals and just east of Mall of Asia. Going north from Ermita/Malate along Mabini St, jeepneys go to Rizal Park before heading off in various directions: ‘Santa Cruz’ and ‘Monumento’ jeepneys take the MacArthur Bridge, passing the main post office, while ‘Cubao’ and ‘Espana’ jeepneys traverse the Quezon Bridge to Quiapo church before peeling off to, respectively, the Cubao and Sampaloc bus terminals.

Train

There are three elevated railway lines in Manila known as LRT-1, LRT-2 and MRT-3. You'll need a separate ticket for each line. Prices start from P12, and trains run between 4am and midnight. Avoid these trains during rush hour, when they get mosh-pit crowded and huge ticket lines form.

The Cordillera

Most who venture into North Luzon set their sights squarely on the Cordillera, a river-sliced hinterland of lush green forests covering hectare after hectare of jagged earth. Besides numerous rice terraces around Banaue and Bontoc, other draws include stunning hikes, waterfalls and – in hippie-esque Sagada – caving.

The tribespeople of the Cordillera, collectively known as the Igorot, are as compelling as the landscape, and it’s worth studying their culture if you’re heading up this way. In remote areas you may observe cañao (sacrificial ceremonies) and see elders wearing indigenous garb such as G-strings (loin cloths).

Throw a poncho in your bag, as the Cordillera can get chilly at night. Fog and rain are often part of the equation too – the rainy season starts earlier and ends later in the mountains. There are no functioning ATMs outside of Baguio and Sagada, so bring cash.

OFF THE BEATEN TRACK

THE MUMMIES OF KABAYAN

A road heading north out of Baguio for 50 winding kilometres leads to picturesque Kabayan, the site of several caves containing eerie mummies entombed centuries ago by the Ibaloi people. Some of these caves can be visited, while others are known only to Ibaloi elders. After exploring Kabayan for a day or two, you can hire a guide to walk back to the Halsema Hwy (about five hours, straight uphill) via the Timbac Caves (admission P100), the spot where the best-preserved mummies are found. The keys are with a caretaker who lives up the hill from the caves. From the caves, it’s about a 45-minute walk out to the Halsema Hwy.

8Getting There & Around

The usual way into the Cordillera is via Baguio or Banaue, although more obscure routes exist. Rainy-season landslides often close the roads, so pack patience. The Halsema ‘highway’ linking Banaue with Bontoc is sealed nowadays. A real engineering feat when it was built in the 1920s, the Halsema snakes along a narrow ridge at altitudes up to 2255m, offering great views of precipitous valleys, green rice terraces and Luzon's highest peak, Mt Pulag (2922m).

Baguio

%074 / Pop 319,000 / Elev 1450m

Vibrant, woodsy and cool by Philippine standards, Baguio (bah-gee-oh) is the Cordillera’s nerve centre. The Philippines’ ‘summer capital’ was founded as a hill station for the US military in the early 1900s. A university town, Baguio is known for live music, faith healers and funky restaurants. Unfortunately, even without tricycles (which can’t climb the hills), Baguio has major air- and noise-pollution. The city’s charm lies well outside the centre, in pine-forested parks such as Camp John Hay.

1Sights & Activities

oTam-awan VillageARTS CENTRE

(%0921 588 3131, 074-446 2949; www.tam-awanvillage.com; Long-Long Rd, Pinsao; adult/student P50/30, workshops per person P450)S

Nine traditional Ifugao homes and two Kalinga huts were taken apart then reassembled on the side of a hill at the artist colony Tam-awan Village. Spending the night in one of these huts (single/double P500/1000) is a rare treat. You can participate in art workshops, learn dream-catcher or bead making and see indigenous music and dance demonstrations. To get here, take a Quezon Hill–Tam-awan or Tam-awan–Long-Long jeepney from the corner of Kayang and Shagem Sts (P8).

BenCab MuseumMUSEUM

(www.bencabmuseum.org; Km 6, Asin Rd, Tadiangan; adult/student P100/80; h9am-6pm Tue-Sun)

This superb museum dedicated to the life, times and work of Benedicto Reyes Cabrera (BenCab) is as fascinating as the man who is its subject. The gallery is a mix of high glass panes slanting light into modern art colonnades offset by walls of traditional animist wood carvings, bulol (rice guardians), psychedelic works by Leonard Aguinaldo and ceremonial hagabi (carved wooden benches). Asin Rd jeepneys get you here from Abanao St near City Hall.

4Sleeping

The most unique choice is Tam-awan Village, but it’s at least a 15-minute ride from the centre. For barflies, the Dreams Transient House (%0933 522 5671; Palispis (Marcos) Hwy, Km 4; d/6-person P1000/3500; a) has clean and spacious rooms under the Baguio Craft Brewery.

Baguio Village InnGUESTHOUSE$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %074-442 3901; 355 Magsaysay Ave; s/d from P400/750; W)

Beyond the Slaughterhouse Terminal, this warm and inviting backpacker special is reminiscent of the cosy pinewood guesthouses in Sagada. Rooms in the new annex at the back are pricier but quieter.

Upstairs Bed & BathHOSTEL$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %074-446 4687; upstairsbedandbath@gmail.com; GSP Bldg, Leonard Wood Rd; dm P320, d P800-1200; iW)

This place just southeast of SM Mall has 90 beds spread over a variety of spotless dorm rooms – the four-bed dorms cost the same as the 20-bed dorms. It would benefit from a kitchen and better common spaces.

YMCA HostelHOSTEL$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %074-442 4766; Post Office Loop; dm/d P390/1300)

The 'Y' boasts huge, bright dorm rooms and colourful private rooms with soft beds and flat-screen TVs – pretty good value. It’s just off Session Rd, opposite SM Mall.

SPLURGE

If you don't mind being out of the centre – and in Baguio you shouldn't – the spacious Forest Lodge ( GOOGLE MAP ; %074-422 2075; www.campjohnhayhotels.ph; Loakan Rd; d/tr from P2900/3800; W) in Camp John Hay is an exceptional value. It has a ski-lodge feel, business-traveller-oriented rooms and gym and spa access.

5Eating

Oh My Gulay!VEGETARIAN$

( GOOGLE MAP ; 4th fl, La Azotea Bldg, Session Rd; mains P110-140; h11am-8pm Sun-Thu, to 9pm Fri & Sat; v)

Step into an enchanted, multilevel garden, with wooden carvings, plants, bridges, water features and little nooks to hide in. The vego menu tempts with tofu lumpia (small spring rolls) salad, pastas, filled crêpes and more. Expect some strange flavours.

Volante PizzaINTERNATIONAL$

( GOOGLE MAP ; 82 Session Rd; 6-/10in pizza from P69/210; h24hr)

Catering to night owls, revelers with post-drinking munchies and a loyal lunchtime crowd, this informal spot serves surprisingly good pizza, fried chicken and heaped po'boy sandwiches.

oCafe by the RuinsFUSION$$

( GOOGLE MAP ; 25 Chuntug St; mains P200-340; h7am-9pm; Wv)

The thatched-wood interior of Baguio’s most beloved restaurant is awash in foliage and sculpted wood and its wide-reaching menu is equally appealing, from the homemade 'breads and spreads (pates)' to organic salads, imaginative sandwiches and superlative dishes such as the shrimp and mango curry and Baguio bagnet (crispy pork belly).

6Drinking & Entertainment

o18 BCBAR

( GOOGLE MAP ; 16 Legarda Rd; h6.30pm-late)

In a city where live music seemingly wafts out of every window, this dive opposite Prince Plaza Hotel consistently features Baguio’s best original live music, from jazz and blues to reggae. Annoyingly, no shorts or flip-flops allowed.

Baguio Craft BreweryMICROBREWERY

(Palispis (Marcos) Hwy; beers from P160, mains P300-350; h5pm-2am; W)

Baguio's entry on the ever-growing ledger of Philippine craft-brew houses is worth the mild slog out of the center. Your reward is about 20 different types of expertly crafted beers, fine mountain views from the rooftop terrace, and toothsome wings, fish tacos and other bar snacks.

RumoursBAR

( GOOGLE MAP ; 56 Session Rd; cocktails P85-130; h11am-11pm)

A decades-old institution that draws a nice mix of tourists, expats, local students and random barflies. Some of the speciality drinks will, in no uncertain terms, lay you on your arse.

7Shopping

Baguio is a shopping mecca where you can find all manner of handicrafts, including basketwork, textiles, Ifugao woodcarvings and jewellery (silver is a local speciality). Bargain hunters and photographers might check out the lively City Market ( GOOGLE MAP ; Magsaysay Ave; h6am-7pm), which sells everything from knock-off handicrafts to discounted Cordillera coffee to fresh-grilled chicken foetus. Didn't realize Baguio was so cold? The Night Market ( GOOGLE MAP ; Harrison Rd) is a great place to find a cheap used hoodie or raincoat.

8Information

Session Rd hosts several internet cafes and banks. The Cordillera Regional Tourist Office ( GOOGLE MAP ; %074-442 7014; Governor Pack Rd; h8am-5pm Mon-Fri) arranges guides (P1000 to P1500 per day) and tours throughout the Cordillera.

8Getting There & Away

Victory Liner ( GOOGLE MAP ; %074-619 0000; Upper Session Rd) and Genesis ( GOOGLE MAP ; %074-422 7763; Governor Pack Rd) run a few nonstop 29-seat deluxe buses to/from Manila mostly along new divided highways (P690 to P750, four hours); most Genesis 'Joybus' trips stop at NAIA Terminal 3. Otherwise, regular air-con trips take a much slower route to Manila every 30 minutes (P450, 6½ hours). Vigan-bound Partas ( GOOGLE MAP ; %074-444 8431) buses go via San Fernando (P80 to P105, 1½ hours).

GL Lizardo ( GOOGLE MAP ; %074-304 5994) has hourly buses until 1pm to Sagada (P222, 5½ hours) from the Dangwa Terminal ( GOOGLE MAP ; Magsaysay Ave), a five-minute walk north of Session Rd. D’Rising Sun ( GOOGLE MAP ; %0910 709 9102) buses to Bontoc (P212, 5½ hours) leave hourly until 4pm from the Slaughterhouse Terminal ( GOOGLE MAP ; Magsaysay Ave), five minutes by jeepney beyond the Dangwa Terminal. These routes follow the spectacular Halsema Hwy.

Also from the Slaughterhouse Terminal, NA Liner has a 10am bus to Kabayan (P135, 4½ hours); or take the more frequent minivans, which leave when full until about 5pm (P150, 3½ hours). Minivans to Solano, where you'll find easy connections to Banaue, leave from the Dangwa Terminal roughly hourly (P250, 4½ hours).

KMS and Ohayami each have at least one night bus to Banaue (P450, 8½ hours) each day. Their terminals are near each other on Shanum St, west of Burnham Park.

Sagada

Pop 1550 / Elev 1477m

The epitome of mountain cool, Sagada is the place to escape from civilisation for a few days – or months. Caves, peaks, waterfalls and hanging coffins beckon the active traveller, while more sedate types can just kick back with a hot drink and a book and revel in Sagada’s delightfully earthy ambience and chilly weather. Try to time your visit for a begnas (traditional community celebration), when the hearty Kankanay locals gather in dap-ay (outdoor meeting places) to bang gongs, smoke pipes, swill brandy and sacrifice chickens. If possible avoid weekends, when tour vans from Manila arrive en masse. Sagada now has a functioning ATM, in the old Municipal Hall.

Guides are required for any trekking or caving you do around here – even easy ones. Grab one at the Tourist Information Centre ( GOOGLE MAP ; h7am-5pm) in the old Municipal Hall, or at the Sagada Genuine Guides Association ( GOOGLE MAP ; %0916 559 9050; www.saggas.org), down the hill a little past Yoghurt House. Our favourite excursion is the thrilling half-day cave connection (P400 per person).

Sagada Outdoors ( GOOGLE MAP ; %0919 698 8361; www.luzonoutdoors.com) runs rafting trips on the upper Chico River from September to December and thrilling canyoning trips near Sagada year-round, and is an authority on mountain biking and other adventures in the region.

4Sleeping

Sagada’s basic but charming guesthouses, swathed in pinewood and cosy linen, are a delight. Beds fill up on Saturday nights; home in on places (such as the following) that do not work with the invading weekend tour groups.

Misty Lodge & CafeLODGE$

(%0926 123 5186; mistylodgeandcafe@rocketmail.com; r without bathroom per person P300; W)

It's definitely worth the 15-minute walk east out of town to stay (or just hang out) at this gem. The rooms are sizable and swathed in radiant blonde wood, while a fireplace crackles in the cafe.

Green HouseGUESTHOUSE$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0999 903 7675; r per person P200; W)

Not only is it about the cheapest guesthouse we found, but it's also one of the warmest and quietest, set up on the hill over the south road. The simple rooms have plenty of rustic charm.

Treasure Rock InnGUESTHOUSE$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0920 272 5881; r per person P300; W)

'Aunty Mary' runs this spick-and-span guesthouse with killer views of Sagada's famed cliffs from the simple rooms. Its location 1km south of town ensures peace and quiet – except when the nightly videoke ramps up (but only until 9pm). Recently added an annex with a few en suite rooms.

Davey's Inn & RestaurantGUESTHOUSE$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0939 506 1914; s/d P350/500; W)

The simple doubles, better than most in town, are fine value. It overlooks the plaza in the middle of town and has a big fireplace in the downstairs cafe.

5Eating

oYoghurt HouseFUSION$

( GOOGLE MAP ; snacks P100, mains P160-240; h8am-8.30pm; v)

We don't usually rave or fawn, but we can say with absolute certainty that this lovely eatery's tangy yoghurt sauce is the best thing ever to happen to (locally grown, succulent) vegetables. Take your banana pancake out on the balcony for breakfast, get some of the great oatmeal cookies to go, or linger over pasta, chunky sandwiches or beef cutlets.

Gaia CafeVEGETARIAN$

( GOOGLE MAP ; mains P120-145; h7am-7pm, closed Tue; v)

Hidden in the woods 1.6km south of the centre past the Lumiang Cave entrance, Gaia serves locally sourced vego fare amid pine trees and in view of rice terraces. There are books to browse and a store packed with stuff that hippies like.

Bana’s CafeCAFE$

( GOOGLE MAP ; mains P100-170; h6.30am-8pm; Wv)

Oriented toward trekkers, Bana's specialises in coffee, omelettes and delicious homemade yoghurt. Its narrow balcony overlooks a gorge and catches the morning sun.

SPLURGE

The fireplace dining at Log Cabin ( GOOGLE MAP ; %0915 671 7949; mains P190-290; h6-9pm) hits the spot on those chilly Sagada evenings. Treat yourself to the likes of roast meats in delicious sauces, rösti or spicy curries. On Saturdays there’s a wonderful buffet (P390, prepaid reservations only). Upstairs it has one room available (P1500) that is arguably Sagada's best.

8Getting There & Away

Jeepneys to Bontoc depart at least every hour until 1pm (P45, 45 minutes). The last bus to Baguio leaves at 1pm.

Coda Lines (%0929 521 3247; Sagada Public Mkt) runs a bus to Manila (P720, 11 hours, 3pm).

Bontoc

%074 / Pop 3030 / Elev 900m

This Wild West frontier town is the central Cordillera’s transport and market hub. Make a point of visiting the Bontoc Museum ( GOOGLE MAP ; admission P60; h8am-noon & 1-5pm), which has fascinating exhibits on each of the region’s main tribes. Check out the grisly photos of head-hunters and their booty.

There’s some awesome trekking to be done around Bontoc, most notably to the stone-walled rice terraces of Maligcong, which rival those in Batad. Secure a guide (P1200 per day) and map at the handy Tourism Information Center. French- and German-speaking Kinad (%0920 528 1441, 0929 384 1745; kinad139@yahoo.com) is an experienced guide around here.

To really get off the beaten track, head even further north into Kalinga province, where you can hike to remote villages and meet aged former head-hunters. Francis Pa-In (%0915 769 0843) guides treks in Kalinga province.

If you are staying a night, Churya-a Hotel & Restaurant ( GOOGLE MAP ; %0999 994 6726; Halsema Hwy; s/d/tr P250/500/800; W) has clean if somewhat dysfunctional rooms, and a pleasant balcony restaurant over Bontoc’s main street. If you want air-con and a modicum of comfort, cross the Chico River to the Archog Hotel ( GOOGLE MAP ; %0917 695 9036, 0918 328 6908; r P600-1200; W).

Jeepneys to Sagada (P45, 45 minutes) leave hourly until 5.30pm. Hourly D'Rising sun buses serve Baguio. For Banaue, there is a jeepney (P150) around 8am, another one around noon, and three morning buses (P120). Minivans (P150) are another option, leaving when full until noon.

For Vigan, take three minivans: Bontoc–Abatan (Bauko; P50, 45 minutes); Abatan–Cervantes (P70, 50 minutes); Cervantes–Tagudin (P150, two hours). From Tagudin flag down a northbound bus to Vigan (P130, two hours).

Banaue & the Rice Terraces

%074 / Pop 2600 / Elev 1200

Banaue is synonymous with the Unesco World Heritage–listed Ifugao rice terraces, hewn out of the hillsides by the Ifugao tribe using primitive tools and an ingenious irrigation system some 2000 years ago. Legend has it that the god Kabunyan used the steps to visit his people on earth.

Banaue proper – a ragged collection of tin-roofed edifices along a ridge – is not the best place to view the terraces. Instead, venture 45 minutes east to Batad, or to even less touristy Ifugao towns like Bangaan, Cambulo, Hapao, Kiangan and Pula. Some of these are accessible on hikes out of Banaue.

If you're short on time, Banaue's own mud-walled terraces are best ogled from a series of viewpoints about 2km north of town; a tricycle there and back costs P220.

4Sleeping & Eating

Most Banaue rooms lack electrical sockets, so prepare to do battle for use of public power outlets. Some guesthouses charge P20 for charging privileges.

oRandy's Brookside InnGUESTHOUSE$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0917 577 2010; r from P200; W)

Not only is Randy a great, knowledgeable host whose brain you may wish to pick about all things Banaue, but he runs a ship-shape guesthouse with the cheapest rooms in town and throws in a free breakfast. A win for backpackers everywhere.

Stairway Lodge & RestaurantGUESTHOUSE$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0916 456 7346; s P250, d P400-600; W)

The rooms here are simple delights. They open to cosy common rooms on the 2nd and 3rd floors and come equipped with tables and warm blankets. The cheaper bathroom-less rooms are roadside and, hence, noisier.

People’s LodgeGUESTHOUSE$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0935 189 5455; s/d from P300/500; iW)

This centrally located spot has a huge variety of rooms and a popular restaurant with rice-terrace views and a balcony that most of its neighbours lack.

7th Heaven'sGUESTHOUSE$

(%0908 467 4854; r P250 per person; hcafe 7am-8pm)

Operating strictly as a cafe when we visited, friendly 7th Heaven's will have rooms open from 2016. Located 500m up the road from the main town, the wonderful cafe has the best views in town, and the rooms promise to have similar allure.

8Information

Pay your environmental fee (P50) at the Municipal Tourism Center ( GOOGLE MAP ; %0906 770 7969; h6am-7pm), up on the ridge road at the bus drop-off point, which also arranges accredited guides (full day P1200), hands out maps and posts a list of prices for private transport. You can change dollars at the money changer (Old Banaue Market, 2nd fl; h8am-6pm Mon-Sat, 2-6pm Sun).

8Getting There & Away

Ohayami ( GOOGLE MAP ) (P450) and more comfortable Dangwa ( GOOGLE MAP ; %0918 522 5049) (P530) each run one overnight trip (more in the high season) to/from Manila (seven to eight hours).

If you prefer daytime travel, get to Solano by jeepney (P110, 2½ hours with a transfer in Lagawe) and flag down a frequent Manila-bound bus (P375, eight hours).

KMS and Ohayami night buses to Baguio ply the lowland route via Solano and Rosario (P415, 8½ hours). One or two morning vans do this trip via Solano and the Ambuklao Rd shortcut (P400, six hours).

There’s an 8.30am jeepney to Bontoc (P150, 1¾ hours), and a handful of Bontoc-bound buses (P120) pass through Banaue in the late morning.

Batad

Pop 1025 / Elev 1100

Batad sits at the foot of a truly mesmerising amphitheatre of rice fields. Most of the inhabitants still practise traditional tribal customs in what must be one of the most serene, picture-perfect villages to grace the earth. A new sealed road terminating just short of the village means you no longer have to walk 45 minutes in. This will make life easier for locals but will undoubtedly mean more crowds from Manila, especially on weekends and holidays.

If the scene is getting too out of control, hike to nearby Cambulo or Pula, or venture further afield to Mayoyao or to Barlig and Kadaclan in neighbouring Mountain Province. All have simple guesthouses.

A slippery 40-minute walk beyond Batad village itself is the 30m-high Tappiya Waterfall and swimming hole. Guides are available through the Batad Environmental Tour Guides Association (P1000 to P1300 per day).

Most guesthouses are up on the 'viewpoint' overlooking Batad village and the amphitheatre, near where you enter the area and pay your heritage fee (P50). Hillside Inn, Batad Guesthouse & Pension, Rita’s, Simon’s Inn and Ramon's all have restaurants and rooms for about P250 per head. They’re all simple, clean and rustic, but Hillside wins our hearts with its good food and all-round charm.

The daily jeepney from Banaue goes most of the way to Batad; you still have to walk the final 15 minutes or so. It departs Banaue at 3pm (P150, 1¼ hours); the return from Batad is 9am the next morning. A tricycle or motorbike taxi costs P1000 return. Consider exiting Batad via the beautiful two-hour hike down to scenic Bangaan, where you can flag down various morning jeepneys to Banaue.